ClearSpan 104450 User manual

Instruction Manual
Poly Shelters
for the ClearSpanTM Sunblocker Pavilion
SKU #104447 21' Wide x 16' Long
SKU #104448 21' Wide x 24' Long
SKU #104449 21' Wide x 32' Long
SKU #104450 21' Wide x 40' Long
SKU #104451 21' Wide x 48' Long
SKU #104452 21' Wide x 56' Long
SKU #104453 21' Wide x 64' Long
SKU #104454 21' Wide x 72' Long
© 2005 ClearSpanTM
All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited without written permission.
Rev: 26 Jan 05
Note: Photo may be of a different but similar model

Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the ClearSpanTM Poly Shelter. We appreciate your patronage. We hope
you enjoy building and utilizing your shelter. Please read this entire instruction manual before
starting to assemble your shelter. If you require assistance during the construction process you may
call us at 1-800-245-9881.
A Word About Safety
Just as we want you to be pleased with your assembled shelter, we donʼt want you to get hurt in the
process of building it! Our suggestions include the following:
• Wear eye protection when drilling and power-screwing.
• Wear head protection when working with/under heavy parts including metal tubing.
• Wear gloves when handling metal tubing due to sharp or rough ends.
• Use a portable GFCI when working with corded power tools.
• Never erect a shelter directly under power lines.
• Be careful not to drive anchors into buried power cables.
• Do not climb on the shelter or its frame. It is not designed to support human weight.
• If the shelter is enclosed, provide proper and adequate ventilation.
• Do not store hazardous materials in the shelter without proper ventilation and precautions.
• If both ends are covered, provide proper ingress and egress to prevent entrapment.
• Do not occupy the shelter during very high winds, hurricanes, or tornadoes.
• If shelter is moved after construction, inspect shelter thoroughly before reuse.
• Use common sense at all times.
Suggested Tools
Before you start to build your shelter you should assemble the following tools:
• Tape Measure
• Fine Point Marker to mark locations on tubing
• Step ladder tall enough to safely work at the height of your shelter
• Two or more 30-foot pieces of rope
• Allen Wrench Set
Page 2

IMPORTANT - Read Anchoring Instructions
You must read the anchoring instructions packed with your kit prior to shelter assembly!
For permanent installations, we recommend using ground posts at the bottoms of all legs.
They not only anchor your shelter but also make your pavilion easier to assemble.
Selecting a Location
It is important to select a proper location for your poly shelter. While the location may have been
predetermined before you even ordered your shelter, you may want to “improve” the location before
starting the assembly process.
One of the most important considerations is that the location should be level. If it is not, the shelterʼs
frame will not assemble or sit properly. If your location is not level, you should consider grading it
before building on it. Another alternative is to provide footings which are level to support the shelter.
These could be pressure-treated posts, precast concrete blocks, or poured in place footings.
Drainage is another important consideration. Rain flowing off your shelter should have a natural path
to flow away from the shelter and not under or into it.
Section A - Unpack & Identify Parts
Step 1: Before you begin to assemble your shelter you should first unpack the contents of your
shipment. During this process you will learn what all of the various parts look like.
Tip: We recommend you start by laying out the contents of your shipment in an orderly fashion
as shown in the photograph below. Note that your parts may look different from those shown.
Step 2: Carefully go through the bill of material that came with your shelter and verify that you
have all the required parts.
Tip: It is not necessary to open the plastic bags and count all of the fasteners at this time.
Page 3

Parts Identification
Note: Illustrations are not to scale.
Page 4
Pipe (only swaged is shown)
Swivel Socket
Cover
Ball Tie Down
Rafter Sections
(all pieces
not shown)
Tek Screw
Ground Post
(optional)
Crossover
Socket T & Cross
Straight Coupling
2 Socket Cross
3
8
Driver
Bit

Assembly Diagrams
Your assembled shelter will be similar to the photo below:
Before installing your shade cover, you will assemble the frame:
Note: The number of rafters shown above may not match your shelter
Page 5

Section B - String Lines for Posts (optional, recommended)
Step 1: Once you have determined where your pavilion will be located, start by driving the first
corner post. To do this, first install the post driver tool in the top of the post to protect it from
being damaged. The top of the post should be 1' above finished grade when driven.
NOTE: Pre-drilled holes in posts should be inside-to-outside if you wish to install base boards.
Step 2: Measure the exact length of your shelter from the first post to locate the post at the far end
on the same side of the frame. Drive this post into the ground only a few inches at this time.
Step 3: Use a transit or line level to finish driving this second post so the top of the post is at the
same height as the top of the first post.
Step 4: String a line between the two corner posts driven so far. Nylon mason's line is preferred as it
can be stretched to get the sag out. If after stretching the line there is still sag, a support stake
can be driven 1" from the side of the string line halfway between the posts. A 10d nail driven
into the side of the stake will help support the line. The line should be exactly 1" down from the
top of the post.
Now you will locate the other two corner posts.
Step 5: String a line the exact width of your shelter from the first corner. Use a transit to set this line
square or at exactly 90˚from the first line. Drive a post in this 3rd corner but only a few inches
deep at this time. If you do not have a transit, use the 3-4-5 rule to square the line. Squaring
is done by measuring 3' along one line and 4' along the other line from the intersection of two
lines. The cross measurement should be 5'. If it is not 5' exactly adjust the lines and re-
measure from the new intersection. Any multiple of 3-4-5 will also work, such as 6-8-10 or
12-16-20. Using a larger multiple will help create an accurate 90˚angle.
Step 6: Repeat step 5 to find the last corner. Drive this post only a few inches deep at this time.
Step 7: Recheck the positions of the last two corners. They should be the exact length of your
shelter apart. Also measure diagonally corner-to-corner. This measurement should be the same
along both diagonals.
Step 8: With their positions located exactly and checked, finish driving the last two corners to the
same height as the first corners.
Page 6

Section C - Driving Posts (optional, recommended)
Step 1: Attach a tape measure hooking it over the top of the first post and attaching it with tape.
Run it down the long direction to the second post
Step 2: Proceed to drive all the other posts in line spacing them 8' center to center using the tape
measure. The string line should be 1" down from the tops of both corner posts. Drive the other
posts so their ends are also 1" above the string line. This will put all posts at the same height.
Notes: The tape measure should be long enough to measure the entire length of the shelter
without taking it off the first post. This will prevent a compounding of errors. With this method
you might be off on any given post, but the overall measurement should be right.
A certain amount of care should be used driving your posts. Keeping your posts 8' center to
center and vertical will make installing the rest of the structure that much easier.
Be sure to orient the pre-drilled holes in the posts as shown above to facilitate attachment to
baseboards (optional, supplied by customer) if desired.
Cutting posts as a rule is not recommended as they act as the foundation for the shelter. The
posts should be set into grade as indicated in the instructions. Exceptions do occur when a
post cannot be driven far enough into the grade because of rock or ledge that cannot be
broken through.
It is recommended that if the posts must be cut, first dig down to the obstruction with a 12"
round hole. Turn the post upside down placing the top of it on top of the obstruction. Mark the
bottom of the post at 1" above the string line and cut it on the mark. Fill the hole with concrete
and set the post into the concrete in the same location that it is to be driven into. If the hole is
shallow, dig it wide enough so that after the concrete hardens, it has good bearing against the
soil. Do not erect the rafter on top of the post until the concrete is dry.
Step 3: Repeat the above steps to drive all the posts along the other side of your shelter.
Step 4: Finish by installing a ground post in the middle of each end at the same height as all others.
Page 7

Section D - Rafter Assembly
Step 1: Locate the 8 sections of pipe to make an end rafter. This will include (2) straight leg sections
with angled ends, (3) curved sections, plus 3 straight sections to make the horizontal chord.
Typical End Rafter
Step 2: Position a socket T and cross coupling at the middle of the curved section that will become
the peak.
Step 3: Position a socket T and cross near the top of each leg section just below the bend.
Step 4: Use (2) straight couplings to join the 3 curved sections together.
Step 5: Use straight couplings to join a leg to each end of the curved assembly.
Step 6: Assemble the chord using (2) swaged 99" pipes with (1) unswaged 58" pipe.
Page 8

Page 9
Step 7: Install a 2 socket cross coupling at the middle of the chord.
Step 8: Connect the chord to the legs via the 3-way "Ts" previously installed.
Step 9: Repeat the steps above to assemble the other end rafter exactly like the one you just made.
Step 10: Assemble your inside rafters. These are similar, but do not have the horizontal chord or
diagonal corner braces. Inside rafters have crossover fittings at the peak and just below the
bends in the leg sections.
Typical Inside Rafter
Step 11: Add swivel sockets to the legs of both end rafters and 2 of the inside rafters. These will
later be used to connect diagonal struts. Look at the frame drawing to approximate the
locations of these couplings. On the legs of the end rafters, the should be a foot or so below
the bend. On the two inside rafters they should go a foot or so up from the bottom ends.

Page 10
Section E1 - Rafter Setup (ground post method)
IF YOU DID NOT USE GROUND POSTS, PLEASE PROCEED TO SECTION E2 FOR SETUP.
Step 1: Stand up one of your end rafters. Place the bottom of the rafter into the outside ground
posts and secure with Tek screws through the post into the rafter. Install all of the rafters into
the ground posts at this time. Finish with the other end rafter.
Step 2: When all the rafters are erected, check to make sure they are not corkscrewed. This is
when half of the rafter is leaning toward one end of the shelter and the other half of the same
rafter is leaning toward the opposite end. To correct this, simply push each half rafter in the
direction it needs to go.
Step 3: Insert purlins (horizontal members) into the couplings at the peaks of the rafters and also
at the tops of the legs. Tighten the rafter couplings as you go. Start with the plain end of a 99"
swaged pipe. Continue to add more 99" swaged sections, and end with an unswaged section
that is the correct length so the purlin assembly is the same length as your shelter.
Step 4: Recheck that every rafter is standing up straight (plumb) and that the rafter-to-rafter
distance is 8' when checked at the peak and side couplings.
Step 5: When all rafters appear to be straight, tighten all the couplings.
Step 6: If this is a permanent installation, we recommend that you install a Tek screw at each purlin
joint to secure the connection.