Country Hearth 24A User manual

1851731B-1908E
UNITED STATES STOVE COMPANY
227 Industrial Park Road
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
All installations must be made in accordance with local and state codes
which may differ from this manual.
Wood & Coal Burning Furnace
Owners Manual
Models: 24A, 30A
TESTED TO UL 391
Report #: 215-S-17-4
LISTED BY PORTLAND,
OREGON, USA
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Certified to comply with 2015 particulate emissions standards.

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...to the world of solid fuel heating! Your new furnace has been designed and built with a high grade of materials
and the strictest regard to quality.
Before you start installing your new furnace, take the time to read these installation and operating instructions. We
have prepared them for your benefit to save time and provide some helpful knowledge on wood and coal burning.
Save the instructions for future use. It won’t take long for you to realize the benefit of solid fuel heating, however,
maintenance is the key to a long lasting relationship with your new furnace. These instructions can help you now
as well as in the future.
Note: This owners manual is provided for Forced Air add on furnaces. United States Stove Company is constantly
developing and improving its product line, therefore, we reserve the right to change specifications without notice.
WELCOME
Chimney Installation
Your new furnace must be installed into a “Class A” Chim-
ney only. This type of chimney consists of a flue lined brick
chimney, or an approved “Class A” all fuel factory built
(prefabricated) type. Any other installation guarantees
an immediate fire hazard.
Do not install the furnace into the same chimney serving
other appliances.
When using 8” flue pipe, the chimney should have an 8”
to 10” round flue liner or 9”x9” square liner.
The chimney should have a minimum height of 3’ from
the top of the chimney to the point at which it passes
through the roof.
The top of the chimney must be at least 2’ higher than
the peak or the highest portion of the roof within 10’
horizontally.
A chimney that rises within the house is better insulated
than a chimney that is located outside the house and
exposed to the weather, the north side of the house is
the worst position.
Check manual for proper installation of flue pipe into
chimney.
Furnace Installation
Install your furnace as close to the chimney as possible
with a minimum of elbows, no more than two and a flue
pipe run of no more than 6 feet horizontally. Also, the flue
pipe should contain a 1/2” rise per foot and NEVER be
installed closer than 18” from combustibles.
WOOD BURNING: Install a manual flue pipe draft damper
at a safe, convenient location between your furnace and
chimney.
COAL BURNING: Install a barometric damper set at .05
Water Column.
AIR FLOW: Solid Fuel furnaces produce much hotter
air than oil or gas fired appliances so all clearances are
mandatory.
AIR DUCT INSTALLATION: This furnace provides a 12”
round (113 sq. in.) opening, because of efficiency and
general convenience.
United States Stove Company recommends a Parallel
Furnace Installation with direct (ducted) feed or return
air to your furnace. NOTE: Cold air duct intake must be
at least 25% larger than hot air duct outlet.
Furnace Assembly
U.S. Stove provides easy step by step pictures, therefore,
the furnace assembly procedure should be understand-
able.
Firing Your Furnace
Start on a conservative basis. Your new furnace, when
properly fired with hard dry wood will achieve approxi-
mately 6 to 8 hours of burn time per load of wood, much
longer with coal. If the furnace is being fired hot constantly
with full flames and only provides a 3 hour burn cycle, the
furnace is being overfired. Possibly your heating require-
ments are too much for the size of furnace purchased.
Certainly allowing your existing furnace to assist in ex-
tremely cold weather is no crime. Remember, your fur-
nace can be damaged if fired continually at extremely high
temperatures and this procedure will void your warranty.
CAUTION: OVERFIRING YOUR
FURNACE VOIDS WARRANTY.
Overfiring
This generally occurs when the following procedures are
not followed, ash door is open (even partially open), the
feed door pressure relief flap is open, the feed door is
open or the manual draft spinner is open. Open the ash
and feed doors only when in attendance, never leave the
furnace unattended when doors are open. This furnace
has an automatic draft fan so use the manual draft with a
specific purpose. Also, an overfilled ash drawer can cause
grate warpage, keep ash drawer clean. Don’t use furnace

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if distribution fan isn’t functioning properly, and keep air
filter clean. Draft fan opening should be set at 1/2” open
as a point of start, depending on condition of fuel.
U. S. Stove recommends a very active fire at all times for
maximum results, but only as instructed.
Some Helpful Hints
• Your furnace will hold logs approximately 2” shorter
than the length of the firebox. Don’t force in over-
sized logs.
• Unsplit, dry logs will provide longer burn time than
split logs.
• Don’t ever try to burn trash or garbage.
• Keep flue pipe stack temperature between 300 and
400 degrees. This will reduce creosote build-up. A
magnetic surface thermometer can be obtained from
your dealer.
• Weather is the most important determinant in how you
operate your furnace (assuming you have dry wood).
• The colder it is the stronger the draft, warm weather
reduces draft. Set your draft fan rheostat and manual
draft accordingly.
• Open manual smoke damper only when starting the
fire and when chimney draft is marginal.
• Always place logs so air can flow between them.
• Shake gently (up to 10 o’clock down to 8 o’clock) don’t
try to loose weight shaking down ashes!
• Wood ash is useful as a fertilizer because it contains
potassium, ashes also decrease the acidity of the soil.
Coal ashes will provide good traction on ice or snow,
otherwise they are useless.
• Always store ashes in a metal container with a lid.
• Ashes are a good thermal insulator and will keep
enough oxygen away so embers will not burn out.
• Never, never let ashes accumulate up to grate level,
this will greatly reduce the life span of your grate.
• Coal produces much more ash than wood.
• Keep your chimney and flue pipe clean, check
monthly.
• Smoke detectors and fire extinguishers should always
be a part of your equipment.
• Never use chemicals or fluids such as gasoline,
charcoal lighter, drain oil or kerosene to light a fire.
• Oil the air fan motors yearly. They do not contain
bearings, sleeves with felt. Therefore keeping fan
air clean is more important than oiling.
• Turn on your regular furnace once every month to
keep it tuned up.
• Always shut the furnace down gradually to prevent
excessive stress on steel.
• WARPAGE OF STEEL IS COMMON, AGGRESSIVE
BUT GENTLE FIRING CAN MINIMIZE WARPAGE.
• There is no substitute for dry hard wood. Wood re-
quires 6 months to a year to air dry to 25% moisture
content or less.
• Don’t throw heavy, wet wood into your Jensen, it could
crack the firebox and bricks.
• Treat your furnace with the proper respect and it
will reward you with much comfort, and a lifetime of
central heat.
WARNING
Note: Improper firing. Wood or coal over firing occurs when the ash door is left open during operation or a
highly volatile fuel is used. Coal that exceeds the fire brick line will cause overfiring...this type of operation
will immediately void any warranty.

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Rules for the Safe Installation and Operation
of Your Furnace...
Check local codes, the installation must comply with strict
conformance in regard to clearances.
The Furnace must be installed on a noncombustible floor.
Connect the furnace to tile lined inside masonry chimney
or approved insulated all fuel prefabricated chimney only.
Keep smoke pipe connection as short as possible, using
a minimum 24 gauge pipe with a minimum 1/2” per foot
rise from the flue collar to the chimney opening.
Be sure there is a sufficient supply of combustion air
to the area where the furnace is to be located.
Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to operate
at .04 to .06 inches of water column and must be set with
a draft gauge to maintain a steady draft.
Do not use flammable liquids for starting a fire.
Do not store fuel or combustibles near the furnace. Some
areas of the furnace are hot and could cause an explosion
and possible bodily or property damage.
Store all ashes in a metal container with a tight sealing
lid and allow ashes to cool before disposing of them,
possibly a week.
Familiarize yourself with the furnace’s solid fuel burning
characteristics before leaving unit unattended for long
periods of time.
The loading door and ash door must be tightly closed
during furnace operation to insure safety and efficiency.
CAUTION -
The furnace has hot surfaces. Keep Children Away.
Do not touch during operation.
In the event of a chimney fire call the fire department,
then be sure the furnace doors are closed tightly and the
power to the unit is turned off.
The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and coal
at a predetermined firing rate. Over firing could result
in damage to the heat exchanger and cause dangerous
operation. Over firing occurs when the ash door is left
open during operation or a highly volatile fuel, such as
large amounts of small kindling, is used. Note: This ac-
tion voids all warranty.
Follow a regular service and maintenance schedule of
the furnace and chimney for efficient and safe operation.
Do not leave the ash door open when the fire is burning.
Do not let ashes build up closer than 2” to the grate.
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on the
metal. You may smell an odor. This is normal during the
first operation. You should assemble the furnace out of
doors and build a small fire in it to “burn off” this dirt and
oil before installing the unit.
During the first few fires, heat may slightly warp the
front and back panels. This is normal and will not
hamper your unit’s operation.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE
SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
BURN WOOD OR COAL ONLY THESE MODELS. DO
NOT MIX OTHER THAN THE USE OF WOOD TO START
A COAL FIRE.
DANGER - Risk of Fire or Explosion: Do not burn gar-
bage, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids.
WARNING - Risk of Fire:
Do not operate with flue draft exceeding 6 inches
water column.
Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal
doors open.
Do not store fuel or other combustible material within
marked installation clearances.
Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly.
In case of a power failure, remove the filter from the cold
air return box if equipped. Do not expect to keep your
home at normal temperatures. Do not load fuel above
the botom of the feed door.
How Your New Furnace Works
Unlike conventional heating (gas, oil, electric), wood or
coal heating requires more user attention. Your furnace,
with its automatic combustion air blower, alleviates the
constant need for adjusting the burning rate common to
other units on the market. The fire, however, must be
started and subsequent fuel added by the user.
Conventional heating system produce heat only when the
thermostat calls for heat. This way of heating is inefficient
and often leaves part of the home either too hot or too
cold. Your furnace is designed to deliver heat as long as
there is a fire in it. The fire intensity is regulated by the
room thermostat, high or low, the fire continues to produce
heat. This heat is continuously distributed throughout the
home by a distribution blower. This constant supply of
heat is uniform and prevents drafts.
This Furnace Must Be Installed By A Qualified Installer.
GENERAL RULES

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Furnace Location
Before you start!
It is very important you check with your dealer, local fire
department, or building inspector. They will be able to
inform you of any state or local codes pertaining to the
location and installation of your furnace.
The ideal location for your furnace is centrally located in
the basement. This allows for an even heat distribution by
having all the duct work approximately the same length.
Ideal locations cannot always be used for one reason or
another, therefore, let’s look at some alternatives.
If your home does not have a basement, but a utility room
or garage, make sure there is enough space to maintain
the required clearances stated on the label located on the
furnace. Also, read about combustion air.
INSTALLATION #1
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is
inserted into the heat run before the plenum of the existing
furnace to prevent air from the existing furnace to blow
back into the furnace when it is not in use. When a back
damper is employed, it should be located as close to the
existing furnace plenum as practical.
Chimney location is also critical. The furnace must be
placed as close as possible to the chimney. You want
the chimney connector (smoke pipe) to have a minimum
of elbows, two (2) or less. Also, the chimney connec-
tor should not have to run more than six (6) feet to the
chimney.
CAUTION: The warm-air supply outlet of the Furnace
should not be connected to the cold-air return inlet
of the central furnace because a possibility exists of
components of the central furnace overheating and
causing the central furnace to operate other than as
intended.
After installation, be sure the measured external static
pressure of the central and Furnace is not greater than
those marked on the nameplates.
INSTALLATION #2
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the existing plenum
will help direct the flow of air from the furnace as well as the flow in
the existing furnace. Ducting entering the existing plenum at an angle
(approximately 45 degrees) will facilitate air flow from the furnace while
diverting air from the existing furnace.
INSTALLATION #3
The baffle on this system should be made the full width
of the furnace plenum in order to properly direct the air
into the distribution ducts.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION #1 INSTALLATION #2
INSTALLATION #3

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INSTALLATION
Your furnace is designed to be added on to existing duct
work and operate either with or without another heat
source such as a gas furnace. The following diagrams
illustrate acceptable ways of ducting your furnace.
Clearance To Combustible Materials
Your Furnace has been tested to determine the SAFE
clearances to combustible material. The clearances are
printed on the label located on the back of the furnace.
The chart on this page also states these minimum clear-
ances. Make sure you follow these when choosing your
furnace location.
Any hot air plenum connection to a furnace must be con-
structed of metal.
Clearance to
Combustibles
Furnace to back wall 30”
Furnace to side wall 12”
Pipe to back wall 18”
Pipe to side wall 18”
Furnace to ceiling 30”
Ductwork to ceiling 18-6-1”
NOTE: INSTALL ONLY ON A NON-COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR.

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WHAT SIZE CHIMNEY SHOULD BE
USED?
The Chimney size to use is either six (6)
or (8) inch round or an 8 x 8” square. If
you use a rectangular chimney, the mini-
mum area it may be is 39 square inches.
“Class A” chimneys are those made from
tile-lined masonry (brick or block) or an
independent laboratory approved all-fuel
factory-built chimney.
CAUTION!
Only a “Class A”, all-fuel chimney intend-
ed for use with solid fuel should be used.
FLUE RECOMMENDATIONS

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The top down method of fire building is recommended for
this appliance. After making sure that the stove air intake
controls are fully open (completely pull-out towards you),
Place the largest pieces of wood on the bottom, laid in
parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed
in a second layer, crossways to the first. A third layer of
still smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second, this
time with some spaces between. Then a fourth layer of
loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops
off the pile.
Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result
when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as com-
pared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
1. Garbage;
2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
4. Materials containing plastic;
5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint thinners,
or asphalt products;
6. Materials containing asbestos;
7. Construction or demolition debris;
8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
9. Manure or animal remains;
10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water
saturated materials;
11. Unseasoned wood; or
12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particleboard.
The prohibition against burning these materials does
not prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper,
cardboard, saw dust, wax and similar substances
for the purpose of starting a fire in an affected wood
heater.
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic
fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.
Dead wood lying on the forest floor should be considered
wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead wood
can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned.
Splitting and stacking wood before it is stored accelerates
drying time. Storing wood on an elevated surface from
the ground and under a cover or covered area from rain
or snow also accelerates drying time. A good indicator if
wood is ready to burn is to check the piece ends. If there
are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then
the wood should be dry enough to burn. If your wood
sizzles in the fire, even though the surface is dry, it may
not be fully cured, and should be seasoned longer
Importance Of Proper Draft
‘Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up
through the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney
depends on the length of the chimney, local geography,
nearby obstructions and other factors. Too much draft
may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance.
Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing into the room
and ‘plugging’ of the chimney.
“Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke
into the room through appliance and chimney connector
joints.”
“An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indi-
cates excessive draft.”
Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is
not too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause
unhealthy or nuisance conditions.
Chimney Installation
With the chimney being the most important part to your
installation, great care should be given to its design.
Masonry Chimneys
If your intention is to use an existing masonry chimney,
check first with your local building official to see if this is
acceptable.
An older chimney, in need of repair, is the GREATEST
fire hazard in any installation.
Stove Pipe (Flue Pipe) Connection
The flue pipe you should use is 6” or 8” 24 gauge or
heavier steel pipe.
When installing the flue pipe, make sure all joints are
secured with at least three (3) sheet metal screws. This
includes the connection to the flue collar of the furnace.
For added protection, use some high temperature furnace
cement to seal each joint.
The stove pipe should slope upward to the chimney at a
rate of 1/2 inch per foot. Any horizontal runs of stove pipe
should not exceed six (6) feet and it should be supported
every four (4) feet. Note: Flue pipe should be attached
inside the flue pipe collar to prevent creosote from running
down onto electrical motors.
FLUE RECOMMENDATIONS

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FLUE RECOMMENDATIONS
Connection Of Flue Pipe To A Masonry
Chimney
When connecting flue pipe to a masonry chimney, there
are two ways to go:
1. The flue pipe itself can be cemented into the chimney
2. A thimble can be used which is cemented into the
chimney, and the flue pipe fits into the thimble.
In each case, care must be taken. The outer masonry
(brick or block) must be chipped away, and the inner
liner must be pierced. The flue pipe or thimble is then
inserted flush to the inside face of the tile liner. NOT ANY
FURTHER!
Use furnace cement or mortar to seal this connection.
When connecting the flue pipe, make sure the attach-
ment is secure enough so down draft or “puffs” do not
dislodge it.
Factory-Built Or Metal Chimneys
If your home has an existing metal chimney, the same rules
apply as with masonry chimneys. One thing to be especially
aware of is that “Class B” chimneys are for gas appliances
only, not solid fuel burners. If purchasing a new package,
consult with the dealer. He will provide the necessary parts
and instructions for installation.
Installing A New Chimney
When installing a new chimney, whether it be masonry or
metal, if possible, it is recommended that it is placed within
the house structure. These chimneys remain warmer and, in
turn, radiate this warmth into the house. A chimney located
outside the house is exposed to cold temperatures which
encourages creosote build-up and poor chimney draft.
Connecting Stove Pipe To A Metal Chimney
When using a metal chimney, part of the installation package
should include a stove pipe connector. Follow the instructions
provided with the chimney and its parts.
Chimney Draft Regulators (Optional) Baro-
metric Damper
These devices are used to help maintain adequate chimney
draft automatically. They should be installed according to
their instructions and set at .04 to .06 inches of water column.
Manual Damper
(Recommended For Added Safety)
These are used to control chimney draft manually and should
be installed in a convenient place between furnace and
chimney. In the event of a chimney fire, it should be closed
reducing air to the chimney fire.
A combination of both barometric damper and manual damper
may be used. If this is the case, install the manual damper
between the barometric damper and the chimney.
Ventilation For Your Furnace
There are many appliances which require “make up” air to
operate. However, with a combustion air draft fan, “make-up”
air is not usually necessary with your wood furnace.
If your home is sealed exceptionally well, use a 3” or 4”
diameter duct vented to the outside and terminating in the
vicinity of the combustion air draft fan. Also, it is possible for
your fans to draw in furnace smoke if there is only dead air in
the area. Note: It’s highly recommended that a cold air return
system be utilized. Simply attach a 14” round to a filter box
adapter and attach to cold air return. Also, a cold air return
increases motor life.

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NOTE: Your furnace may come partially pre-assembled, but in the case that it is not, follow the instructions
below. Also use these instructions for future maintenance and disassembly. Drawings and photos are for
illustration purposes only. Actual parts may differ.
Prior to assembling, place the unit in the general vicinity of the installation. This should help minimize handling
damage to the unit after assembly.
1. Unit side shrouds can be assemble by slipping the side
shrouds into place from the top down. If they don’t slide
easily, open up the lip of the sides with a large screw
driver then add a little oil. Sometimes a slight tapping
with a block of wood and hammer may be required, but
do not force. When properly installed, the electrical
knock-outs will be at the top left side. NOTE: Should
you wish to install a domestic hot water coil, it should
be secured to the right side prior to assembly. Also, the
rear cast iron baffle must be fastened prior to shroud
installation.
NOTE: The furnace is partially prewired all that is re-
quired is the wiring of the distribution fan (see wiring
diagram, page 18) and the wiring to wall the thermostat.
4. After mounting the three (3) fans proceed to the fan
control center.
NOTE: The best maintenance for fan motors is to keep
them clean (exceptionally clean). Oiling with 20W N.
detergent once a season will also help, but cleanliness
is what prolongs motors life. The distribution motors
have sealed ball bearing motors and should not need
oiling. However, if an oil tube is present, you should
oil the motors once a season as mentioned.
Attaching the distribution fans. Using four(4) of the
supplied 1/4-20 self-tapping bolts, first install the blower
motor on the right looking at the rear of the furnace.
Then proceed to mount the left blower. Be sure to place
the supplied gaskets between the motors and firebox
back as shown.
Attach the draft fan to the back of the weld on the
throat (2” throat hole with 3 mounting holes). It’s best
to use the self tapping screws without the draft fan to
establish threads then mount blower. The electrical
box on the blower should be facing downward. Draft
fan air intake cover should be set at a 20% opening,
about 1/2” opening.
3.
ASSEMBLY ILLUSTRATIONS
2.

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6. Attach low voltage thermostat No. 18 up to 30 ft. run
No. 16 to 15ft. Run (purchase locally) to terminal
plate, screws identified with letters G & R. (Generally
top row center, bottom row right). Snake wire through
holes in top of box. Replace outer covers & control
knob. Under no circumstances should you attempt to
plug in main power cord until all wiring and covers are
in place. NOTE: A ground power cord plug is provided;
however, local codes may require fuse box mounting.
8. Install top shroud (if removed) by simply placing
shroud on to the top of unit, push down, check each
corner for snug fit.
Attaching furnace control center box. To separate
outer cover, remove two (2) side screws and pull off
black rheostat knob. Attach box to left side (facing
feed door) with four (4) self-threading screws. One
screw in each corner. (NOTE: Furnace control center
is designed for left side attachment. Should space
prohibit such, reversing shrouds for right side instal-
lation is possible, however, control wires from box will
have to be extended.)
Next, attach the 4x4 junction box below the control
center box, using (2) self-threading screws provided
in the parts bag. (Two starter holes are provided.)
5a.
5b.
Wall thermostat should be mounted on an upstairs
inside wall (no outside facing wall) preferably near
your existing thermostat. For more specific informa-
tion, read the Honeywell instruction sheet provided
with thermostat. Caution: disconnect the power sup-
ply before installing. NOTE: Your wall thermostat
and transfer relay are mated Honeywell products for
trouble free installation.
7.
ASSEMBLY ILLUSTRATIONS

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10. Install grate frame (if not already installed): Lay
the first grate frame on the side supports and slide
to the back of the unit. Then install the second grate
frame to the front as shown in the picture above. The
smooth ends of the frames should be together in the
middle. For the model 30A, insert the half grate
frame in the middle of the front and rear frames.
12. Installing Firebrick: Place 5 bricks on each side
(10 brick total). The bricks tuck under firebox seem.
For the 30A model, use six(6) full brick and 1 half brick
per side. (12 full and 2 half brick total)
9. Installing collar to top: To install hot air attaching
collar, simply bend all tabs right angle under shroud.
This may be possible with thumbs, if not, remove top
and use small hammer.
CAUTION: Any hot air plenum connection to a furnace
must be constructed of metal.
Installing Grates: Install grates together, slip shaker
lug into hole and place grates into frame. Grate arch
faces upward. Check out grate rotation by placing
shaker handle on grate lug (3/4”). Grates should
rotate freely.
NOTE: Grates are designed to withstand high tem-
peratures, however, should you overfire the furnace
you may fuse or melt grates. This happens if furnace
receives too much air caused by leaving the ash and
feed doors open, draft fan cover wide open, and hot
coals or ashes are excessive in ash pan.
11.
ASSEMBLY ILLUSTRATIONS

13
13.Installing front and rear cast baffles, heat plates.
NOTE: Grate frames and brick will slide forward and
backward to allow baffle to fit. Install front cast baffle
using two (2) 5/16 bolts, nuts & washers (7/16 wrench
will be needed). Place the side of the baffle that has
the two ribs against the front weld of the firebox. Do
not tighten bolts yet. Place the rear cast baffle to
the back of the firebox but do not attach the bolts at
this time.
14. Now slip the rear heat plate in behind the rear baffle.
Attach heat plate to the firebox by using two (2) 5/16
bolts, nuts & washers. First, line up the top holes and
tighten bolts. Secondly, line up the holes in the rear
baffle and the heat plate with the firebox and attach
by using two (2) 5/16 bolts, nuts & washers. Tighten
all four (4) bolts. NOTE: to reach rear bolts you may
find it easier to put your arm through the flue outlet
rather than to reach through the feed door.
15.Installing smoke damper rod to sliding smoke damper.
First, insert rod through hole above feed door and
push forward.
16.Next working through the flue hole behind furnace, line
up rod between the two posts on the sliding smoke
damper. Then line up the three (3) holes for cotter
pin insertion, this procedure will test your patience.
It’s helpful to have a flashlight and another person
positioning the rod.
ASSEMBLY ILLUSTRATIONS

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18. Installing steel smoke shield. Two (2) holes are pro-
vided above each corner of the feed door. Slide the
two (2) bolts, supplied in the parts bag, into the holes.
Next, place the two (2) clips provided onto each bolt
and then attach the two (2) nuts on each bolt. Before
tightening the bolts and nuts securely, slide the smoke
shield up under the clips, lining them with the slots
in the smoke shield. Tighten the (2) bolts and nuts.
(NOTE: The smoke shield should be able to swing
back and forth.) The smoke shield will help prevent
smoke back puffing if you have a lazy flue.
17. To install Feed Door handle, insert handle into the
door then attach with the 1/2-13 nut and washer
provided. Tighten nut against the backside of the
door then back it off approx. 1/4 turn or until handle
moves freely. (Follow these instructions for ash door
handle installation.)
ASSEMBLY ILLUSTRATIONS
18. Find the Feed Door Latch shown in the parts box.
Install with the 1/4-20 bolts and nuts provided. Adjust
the latch so that the door seals properly. (The ash
door latch shall be assembled in the same manner
using the ash door latch.)
19. To install the dampers on the doors, screw the damper
up onto the 1/2-13 carriage bolt provided. Then
screw the damper and bolt into the door until the bolt
protrudes the rear of the door so that a nut can be
attached. Tighten the nut.

15
CONTROL BOX & ELECTRICAL COMPONENT
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
Wall Thermostat
*(2) 140 degree Adjustable Thermo Disk
*(1)170 degree Thermo Limit Disk
*(1)Relay Transformer
(2) Air Distribution Fan
(1)Draft, Fan
* Control Box Components
170 degree
limit disc
140 degree
adjustable disc.
(Left Dist. Blower)
140 degree
adjustable disc.
(Right Dist. Blower)
10 BASIC FUNCTIONS OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
• Relay...electrical switching device,
• Rheostat...current (voltage) reducer increases or decreases draft fan R.P.M.
• Distribution Capacitor: Reduces amps required to activate distribution fan.
• Transformer: Reduces voltage 110 volts to 24 volts for thermostat usage. Generally hums a bit.
• 170 degree limit disk...breaks off electrical current to the draft fan at 170 degrees
• (2) adjustable140 degree limit disc...closes at set temperature to operate distribution blowers. Thermodisc’s
range is 95-140. (see illustration for location)
• Draft fan...small fan that activates fire, increasing fire temperature.
• Wall mounted thermostat requests heat...electrical contact occurs.
1. Current is sent through relay, rheostat, 170 degrees thermo limit disk to activate draft fan.
2. Upon firebox temperature rise due to air from draft fan, current passes thru the top/right thermodisc to activate
the left distribution fan. The factory seting is approximately 120 degrees air temperature, 500 CFM of air at
120 degrees.
3. Should firebox temperature air reach 140 degrees, current is directed thru the bottom/right thermodisc to activate
the second fan for 1,000 CFM of air.
4. Both blowers will continue to run until air temperature drops approx. 20 degrees below the set point on the
thermodisc.
The above is somewhat basic, however, it’s offered so you can understand your furnaces electrical functions and
enjoy it more.
Your new furnace is now completely assembled and ready to be installed. Make sure you followed the sec-
tions on installation in the front of this manual.

16
OPERATION OF YOUR NEW SOILD FUEL BURNING FURNACE
Check that your draft blower is in working order before
lighting a fire (cover setting 20% open).
Do this by turning the room thermostat to a high tem-
perature so that the draft blower turns on, then turn the
thermostat back to proper setting thus turning the draft
air blower off. Should draft blower not function, check to
see if rheostat setting is on.
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low
burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal
regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual.
Now Proceed With Lighting A Fire
1. Pull bypass damper out (opens up flue hole).
2. Make sure your flue pipe damper is open. Place
several pieces of crumpled paper in the center of
your firebox. In a crisscross pattern, place a couple
of handfuls of dry kindling wood, then several small
dry pieces of firewood.
3. Ignite the paper and close the door. Do not attempt
to open the door immediately after igniting the fire.
There could be a flame flash out.
4. It will take a few minutes for the fire to establish itself.
Once you have some good red hot burning coals, add
larger pieces of wood. All Chimneys and hookups act
differently. After a while, you will find out how your
unit works best for starting.
5. Push in bypass damper after fire has progressed.
6. Your furnace is capable of putting out many BTU’s, so
don’t fully load your furnace until you have become
familiar with the operation of the furnace. Keep in
mind, a full load will not always give you the best
results for your needs. Note: With new steel, there
is a small amount of oil or dirt on the metal. You may
smell an odor. This is normal during the first opera-
tion. You may want to assemble the furnace out of
doors and build a small fire in it to “burn off” this dirt
and oil before installing the unit.
7. When loading your furnace that has existing hot coals,
pull the bypass damper out and rake the red hot
embers over grate evenly. Put a few smaller pieces
of wood on the coals first, then load up to the middle
of the feed door.
8. Set rheostat setting for type and condition of coal or
wood. Hard coal and wood requires more forced air
than soft, so experiment with dial setting. Start with a
center dial setting. The draft fan cover also requires
experimenting with. Start with a 20% opening.
9. Set the furnace thermostat for comfort. Set the other
thermostat 10 degrees lower.
10. Use caution when opening loading door. Avoid open-
ing loading door rapidly. This could cause flames
to flash out the door. This occurs when there is
unburned fuel and a large amount of gases on the
top of the firebox. When the door is opened oxygen
is combined with the gases and ignites.
Visible Smoke
The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an
effective method of determining how efficiently the com-
bustion process is taking place at the given settings. Vis-
ible smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture leaving
your stove. Learn to adjust the air settings of your specific
unit to produce the smallest amount of visible smoke.
Wood that has not been seasoned properly and has a
high wood moisture content will produce excess visible
smoke and burn poorly. Use the includedmoisture meter
to insure your wood has a 20% or less moisture content.
Efficiencies
Efficiencies can be based on either the lower heating
value (LHV) or the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel.
The lower heating value is when water leaves the combus-
tion process as a vapor, in the case of woodstoves the
moisture in the wood being burned leaves the stove as a
vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves the
combustion process completely condensed. In the case
of woodstoves this would assume the exhaust gases are
room temperature when leaving the system, and therefore
calculations using this heating value consider the heat
going up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efficiency
calculated using the lower heating value of wood will be
higher than efficiency calculated using the higher heat-
ing value. In the United States all woodstove efficiencies
should be calculated using the higher heating value.
The best way to achieve optimum efficiencies is to learn
the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-
seasoned wood. Higher burn rates are not always the
best heating burn rates; after a good fire is established a
lower burn rate may be a better option for efficient heat-
ing. A lower burn rate slows the flow of usable heat out
of the home through the chimney, and it also consumes
less wood.
CAUTION:
Never use chemicals or fluids such as gasoline, charcoal lighter
fluid, drain oil or kerosene to light a fire in your furnace. This
would be like checking the level of gas in your car with a
lighted match.

17
CAUTION
If you have a chimney fire, we recommend
the following immediate actions.
1. Alert everyone in the house.
2. Shut any furnace doors, disconnect power
to the unit, and close any dampers. This
should take no longer than a few seconds.
3. Call the fire department.
OPERATION
Ash Removal
CAUTION:Never let ashes build up to grate level. This
will reduce the life span of your grate, and void grate warranty.
Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your firebox or
ash pan, and when the fire has burned down and cooled,
remove excess ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately
1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot
charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-
fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed
on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, away from all
combustible materials, pending final disposal. The ashes
should be retained in the closed container until all cinders
have thoroughly cooled.
Maintenance
Keep chimney and flue pipe clean by cleaning at least
twice during a heating season.
Creosote- Formation And Need For Removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture
to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the
relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a
result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining.
When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected
at least twice monthly during the heating season to de-
termine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to
reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Keeping your chimney and stove pipe clean is the best
insurance against chimney fires. Note: Smoke detectors
and fire extinguishers should always be a part of your
equipment.
If you clean your own chimney and stove pipe, we rec-
ommended purchasing the equipment professionals use.
Wire brushes are available in enough sizes and shapes
to be a snug fit inside any common flue.
Once a week let your furnace burn with ash door open
for a maximum of fifteen minutes while in attendance.
This will help minimize creosote buildup. Also placing a
surface magnetic thermometer on flue pipe is helpful to
keep temperatures at 300 to 400 degrees. Duct tempera-
tures should be 115 to 125 degrees at 12” above furnace.
Over Firing
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater
design specifications can result in permanent damage to
the heater.
Smoke And Co Monitors
Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon
monoxide(CO) emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when
exposed to elevated concentrations for extended periods
of time. While the modern combustion systems in heat-
ers drastically reduce the amount of CO emitted out the
chimney, exposure to the gases in closed or confined
areas can be dangerous. Make sure your stove gaskets
and chimney joints are in good working order and seal-
ing properly to ensure unintended exposure. It is recom-
mended that you use both smoke and CO monitors in
areas having the potential to generate CO.
Gaskets
It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which
makes your stove door air tight) once a year, in order to
insure good control over the combustion, maximum effi
ciency and security. To change the door gasket, simply
remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the available
gasket groove, apply a high temperature silicone sold for
this purpose, and install the new gasket. You may light
up your stove again approximately 24 hours after hav-
ing completed this operation. This unit’s ash door uses
a 1/2” diameter rope gasket, and the feed door uses a
3/8” diameter gasket.
Operational Tips
Operational Tips for Good, Efficient, and Clean Combus-
tion
• Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed
before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30
minutes or more depending on your wood)
• Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high
burn rate to increase the stove temperature
• Be considerate of the environment and only burn
dry wood
• Burn small, intense fires instead of large, slow burning
fires when possible
• Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to
obtain optimum performance
Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves
efficiency and leads to accelerated creosote buildup in
your chimney.

18
OPERATION
Burning Coal
Your furnace is capable of burning both Bituminous and
Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps the best coal fuel
because its long even burn time, high heat output, and
cleanliness make it a good choice for the home. However,
keep in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to use, requires
more care and patience, is not so widely available, and is
usually much more expensive than bituminous.
Size Of Coal
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will work in your New
Furnace, for best results we recommend large nut coal
to small egg coal (1-3/4” dia. to 4” dia.). When burning
Anthracite, use egg or broken with sizes between 2-5/16”
thru 4-3/8”. Note that it is important to the long life of your
furnace to buy coal which has been sized and cleaned.
Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other materials.
Never use coal smaller than 1” or larger than 5” in diam-
eter. Small sized coal will smother the fire. Too large a
size of coal will not burn well.
Stove Operation
All coal fires should be started with wood which will allow
the fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. The best
ignition fires utilize dry pine or other resinous soft woods
as kindling, with hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to
increase the heat prior to addition of the coal.
Burning Bituminous
Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of
well established coals, start adding coal in layers allow-
ing each to ignite before adding more. Bituminous has
a high volatile content and, as a result, should be fired
with the “conical method” - with the highest portion of your
firebed in the center of the firebox. The first flames will be
long and generally orange or yellow and produce quite a
bit of smoke. As the gases burn off the flames become
shorter, change colorand produce less smoke. Once the
fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add coal to the center of the
firebox forming the cone. Burning in this fashion allows
heat to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence created
increases the burn efficiency. You will have to experiment
with your particular setup as no two chimney’s or installa-
tions are going to be the same. Just remember to allow
enough secondary air to enter the firebox and keep your
stove pipe damper open so that volatiles are properly
burned. Before refueling, take the time to break up the
cone a little with a poker, especially if it has caked over or
formed a crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as this
increases the chances of forming clinkers. When shaking
the grate(s) be gentle. Just a few short movements is
better than a lot of agitation. The objective is to remove
a small amount of the ashes without disturbing the fire.
Stop when you see a glow in the ashes or the first red
coals fall into the ash pan. Excessive shaking wastes fuel
and can expose the grate(s) to very high temperatures
which can cause warpage or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake
the fire and add coal, retaining your center cone. Once
the volatiles are burned off, close the feed door and adjust
your stove pipe damper. Then adjust your thermostat to
the desired heat level.
You will have more MAINTENANCE with bituminous than
with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heating
surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning.
Anthracite
Before starting the fire open - the stove pipe damper, open
the ash pit door and feed door, place newspaper, finely
split kindling on the grate, and light the paper. Add larger
hard wood after kindling is burning brightly. CAUTION:
Never use gasoline, lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal
lighter fluid, or other flammable liquids to start or
freshen up a fire in this heater. Place the larger pieces
of wood on the fire so that they are slightly separated and
form a level for the addition of coal. It will take 10 to 20
minutes before this wood is thoroughly ignited. Adding
coal too soon will cut the air supply and smother the fire.
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the
wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut
off the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the
coal is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a third
layer to bring the coal up to the top of the front liner (not
above!). Be sure you have closed your ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure you leave a red spot of
glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that you
have not smothered the fire and to help ignite thegases
given off by the new charge. A deep charge will give a
more even heat and a longer fire, but it may take one to
two hours before the whole bed is fully ignited.
When the fire is well established and the room is becom-
ing warm, partially close the dampers. You will have to
experiment with your particular setting of the damper and
controls as your chimney provides the draft necessary to
not only exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air
into the heater as well - and no two chimney’s perform the
same. Leave the ash pit damper at least partially open
to prevent the fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe
damper to reduce the draft on the fire. With anthracite you
will see short blue flames above the coal, except when
the fire is started or a new charge is added. If, however,
there is no flame then the fire needs more air from the
bottom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycle and
needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original
depth is it time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open
your stove pipe damper, which will allow the fire to burn
off any accumulated gases. Open the feed door, and with
a small rake, hoe or hooked poker pull the glowing coals

19
OPERATION
to the front of the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too
much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being care-
ful not to seal off the top. Close the feed door but leave
the spin damper open for a few minutes until the volatile
gases have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down
the ashes each time you refuel your furnace. Experience
will be your best teacher.
Banking The Fire
For extended operation, such as overnight, you will need
to bank the fire. To do so heap coal up along the sides
and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it
over a longer period of time. You will also reduce the in-
tensity of the fire without letting it go out. Follow the same
procedure as for refueling. If possible, avoid shaking, as
a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the
fire during this time. After loading, let the fire establish
itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your damper to
the point where the house does not become too cold. It
is important that you begin banking early enough before
retiring or leaving that you can make necessary adjust-
ments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, you should (1) open
the ash door and stove pipe damper to get a good draft
through the grate. (2) place a thin layer of dry coal over
the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE
FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the fresh coal has become
well ignited shake the grate (just a little) and you will be
ready to refuel.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous
coal, sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes
called channel coal or candle coal). NEVER burn wax or
chemically impregnated sawdust logs - their intended use
is for fireplaces only. NEVER fill your stove or furnace
above the firebrick or cas iron liner.
Shaking
Shaking should be done only when there is a hot fire.
The frequency of shaking will depend on the degree of
burning. Shaking should be done at least once a day and
preferably twice a day.
Best results from shaking the rocker grates will occur if
short “choppy” strokes are used rather than long, even
strokes. The amount of shaking is critical. Too little or
too much of both can result in the extinguishing of a fire
due to blocked air flow. The proper amount normally oc-
curs when red coals first start to drop through onto the
bed of ashes.
No furnace ever should be “poled” from the top. This can
lead to clinker formation and compacting of the coal and
ashes, which results in clogged air passages.
Ashes
Ashes never should be allowed to accumulate in the ash
pit so that they in any way impede the flow of combus-
tion air to the fire. Excess ash accumulation can cause
the fire to go out and also can cause severe damage to
the grates because of the absence of a cooling flow of
air beneath them.
Ashes always should be emptied into a metal container.
Coals can remain hot many hours after a fire is out. Coal
ashes should not be put on gardens as they do not con-
tain beneficial minerals like wood ashes, and may cause
ground water pollution.
Coal produces considerably more ash than wood, so the
intervals between emptying are much shorter. For equal
heat output, coal will produce seven (7) to ten (10) times
more ash than wood.
Clinkers
Clinkers can occur in any coal furnace during the process
of burning. These are hard pieces of fused ash that form
in the firebox. They can become hard and large in size
and, therefore, cannot be shaken through the grates in a
coal stove. When there is an appreciable accumulation,
the fire will go out because insufficient air is allowed to
pass through the clinkers to the burning coal.
Once large clinkers have formed, they can be removed
only from above the grates. This usually means the fire
must be allowed to go out before they can be removed.
Clinkers formation can occur from a number of different
causes or a combination of causes. Some of these are:
• Poor quality coal-excess ash content and/or too low a
heat of fusion.
• Too hot a fire (too much draft).
• Too shallow a bed of coals.
• Too deep a bed of coals.
• Excessive Shaking.
• Poking the fire from the top.
• Too little air (draft) after a long, hot fire (caused by
rapid adjustment of draft from a very high setting to a
low setting).

20
Whenever the loading door is opened, it should be cracked slightly (for about ten (10) seconds) to allow oxygen to
enter and burn any combustible gases that are present before fully opening. Failure to do this could result in sud-
den ignition of the unburned gases when the door is opened. This furnace is equipped with a safety latch system
to reduce the rsik of sucjh an ignition. Always wear a glove to protect you hand from the heat.
With the exception of the start-up period, the ash pit door should never be left open. Serious damage to the stove
can occur from overheating. In extreme cases, this overheating could be the cause of an “unfriendly fire”.
Coal furnaces are subject to the same installation clearance standards as wood furnaces. Never burn coal in any
furnace that does not have an airtight, unified chimney system.
Coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney that has had a history of back-drafting or flow reversal. Also,
coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney having an excessively large flue. These conditions can cause
improper draft, resulting in carbon monoxide entering the house rather than being drawn up the chimney. Remem-
ber, coal gases are toxic.
Sulfur dioxide, sulfur trioxide and other ions released from coal burning may corrode stainless and masonry chimneys,
and even terra cotta chimney liners and brick in nearby buildings. Coal with high sulfur content will destroy chimneys
especially fast if soot sits in the flue for extended lengths of time. It is important to clean chimneys regularly.
SAFETY - OPERATION
Domestic Hot Water Coil
Part # 11WCK
ACCESSORIES
CAUTION
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. KEEP FURNISH-
INGS AND OTHER COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS A CONSIDERABLE DISTANCE AWAY.
TO AVOID EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURES, DO NOT OPERATE WITH THE FUEL FEED
AND ASH DOORS OPEN. TO PREVENT FLAME AND SMOKE SPILLAGE, THE SLIDE
BAFFLE MUST BE PULLED OUT AND THE FEED DOOR MUST BE CRACKED FOR 10-
15 SECONDS BEFORE DOOR IS OPENED FULLY.