Drolet Escape 1800-I Insert User manual

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45931A
Printed in Canada 25-01-2019
Installation and Operation Manual
Escape 1800-I Insert
(DB03125, DB03127K and DB03128K models)
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT COMPLIANT WITH
2020 CORD WOOD STANDARD
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards
by an accredited laboratory
www.drolet.ca
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, De Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
After-sale service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: [e-mail]
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted
document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from
time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the
use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.

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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS DROLET WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all
its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from
this insert as you build and maintain fires and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute
®
) or
in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association
des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To
reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection
requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may need to
get a building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it is connected to.
Consult your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We
recommend that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation
will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that
a primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be
responsible for costs associated with the use of another heating system.
Dealer : _______________________________________________
Installer : ______________________________________________
Phone number : ________________________________________
SERIAL NUMBER: _______________

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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ...............................7
1. Safety Information....................................................................7
2. General Information..................................................................8
2.1 Appliance performance
(1)
.......................................................................................8
2.2 General Features...................................................................................................9
2.3 Zone Heating and How to Make It Work for You.................................................. 11
2.4 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency.............................................12
2.5 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment.............................................. 12
2.5.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?..................................................................12
3. Fuel ..........................................................................................13
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood................................................................ 13
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood? .................................................................................13
3.1.2 Tree Species....................................................................................................13
3.1.3 Log Length.......................................................................................................14
3.1.4 Piece Size........................................................................................................14
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood .......................................................................................14
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ................................................................15
3.2 Manufactured Logs...............................................................................................16
4. Operating Your Insert.............................................................16
4.1 The use of a fire screen........................................................................................16
4.2 Your First Fires.....................................................................................................16
4.3 Lighting Fires........................................................................................................16
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting ...............................................................................17
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire..........................................................................................17
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs ............................................................................................17
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters........................................................................................... 18
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires........................................................................................18
4.4.1 General Advice ................................................................................................18
4.4.2 Ash Removal....................................................................................................18
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal .............................................................................................. 19
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot...............................................................................19
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ...........................................................................20
4.5 Blower Operation .................................................................................................20
4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs...................................................... 21
5. Maintaining Your Wood Heating System..............................23

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5.1 Insert Maintenance...............................................................................................23
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass........................................................................................23
5.1.2 Door Adjustment..............................................................................................24
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket..............................................................................24
5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass................................................. 24
5.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Insert......................................................................25
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance...........................................................26
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary.............................................................. 26
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?................................................... 26
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney......................................................................................27
PART B - INSTALLATION.............................................................28
6. Pre-Installation Masonry fireplace requirements ................28
7. Safety Information..................................................................29
7.1 Regulations Covering Insert Installation............................................................... 29
8. Clearances to Combustible Material.....................................30
8.1 Location of the Certification Label........................................................................ 30
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace’s Draft Control System (Throat Damper) ........................ 30
8.3 Installation of a Combustible Mantel Shelf ........................................................... 31
8.4 Floor protection.................................................................................................... 31
8.4.1 Installation raised 5" and less ..........................................................................32
8.4.2 Installation raised more than 5"........................................................................33
8.4.3 R Value............................................................................................................33
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor Protector..35
9. The Venting System ...............................................................37
9.1 General ................................................................................................................ 37
9.2 Block-Off Plate.....................................................................................................37
9.3 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................... 38
9.4 Liner Installation................................................................................................... 38
9.5 Chimney Liner Installation....................................................................................39
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two options.
......................................................................................................................... 39
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet ......................... 40
9.6 Minimum Chimney Height....................................................................................40
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House...................................... 40
9.7.1 Why the Chimney Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space ..................... 41
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air..................................................................................... 41
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses..................................................................41

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Appendix 1: Blower Installation ..................................................42
Appendix 2: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation..............43
Appendix 3: Optional Faceplate and Decorative Trims
Installation...............................................................................44
Appendix 4: Optional Cuttable Faceplate Installation...............47
Appendix 5: Optional Fire Screen Installation...........................48
Appendix 6: Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle Installation........49
Appendix 7: Removal instructions..............................................51
Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List..........................52
DROLET LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY ..................................55
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the
date you purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
https://www.drolet.ca/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your insert.

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Certification Label

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1. Safety Information
•Operate only with the door fully closed or fully open with the fire screen in place. If the
door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the opening, creating risks
from both fire and smoke.
•HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE
AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR
INSERT OPERATION.
•Using an insert with cracked or broken components, such as glass or firebricks or baffles
may produce an unsafe condition and may damage the insert.
•Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.
•This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen,
sold separately. The door may be opened, or fire screen removed only during lighting
procedures or reloading. Always close the door or put back on the fire screen after
ignition. Do not leave the insert unattended when the door is opened with or without a
fire screen.
•NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
TO START A FIRE IN THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.
•Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
•This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against
federal regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual
•This appliance should be maintained and operated at all times in accordance with these
instructions.
•Do not elevate the fire by means of grates, and irons or other means.
•A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed
in the house. The location of thefire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon
monoxide, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer,
birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to
www.P65warnings.ca.gov/

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2. General Information
2.1 Appliance performance
(1)
Fuel type Dry cordwood
Recommended heating area
[*]
500 to 2,100 ft
2
(47 to 195 m
2
)
Firebox volume 2.4 ft
3
(0.068 m
3
)
Maximum burn time
[*]
8 h
Maximum heat output
(2)
(dry cordwood) 75,000 BTU/h (22.0 kW)
Overall heat output rates (min. to max.)
(2)(3)
14,800 BTU/h to 28,600 BTU/h
(4.34 kW to 8.38 kW)
Average overall efficiency
(3)
– Dry Cordwood 69 % (HHV
(4)
) 74 % (LHV
(5)
)
Optimum efficiency
(2)(6)
77 %
Average particulate emissions rate
(7)
1.54 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)
(8)
Average CO
(9)
89.4 g/h
[*]
Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney
draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given
appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature
in the designated area in case of a power failure.
(1)
Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
(2)
The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft
3
and 20
lb/ft
3
. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading
density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft
3
. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
(3)
As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
(4)
Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
(5)
Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
(6)
Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
(7)
This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
(8)
Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft
ASTM WK47329-14
(9)
Carbon monoxide.

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2.2 General Features
Maximum log length 20 in (508 mm) east-west*
Flue outlet diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Type of chimney ULC-S635, CAN/ULC-S640, UL1777
Baffle material Vermiculite
Approved for alcove installation Not approved
Approved for mobile home installation
‡
Not approved
Shipping weight (without option) 392 lb (178 kg)
Appliance weight (without option) 336 lb (152 kg)
Type of door Single, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass Ceramic glass
Blower Included (up to 144 CFM)
Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-10**
USA standard (safety) UL 1482, UL 737
Canadian standard (safety) ULC S628
*
East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the tips of the logs.
**
Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and Draft
ASTM WK47329-14
‡
Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US Department of Housing and Urban
Development describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as follows; buildings built
on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In
Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is
completed or substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and
connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard.

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2.3 Zone Heating and How to Make It Work for You
Your new Escape 1800-I wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat
the area it is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower
temperature. This is called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes
or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular
space within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat
source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized
and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located
in the part of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main
living area where the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in
this area, you will get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the
highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your
time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this
way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric
heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing
and location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone.
Three-season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that
are heated all winter.

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2.4 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Escape 1800-I insert
firebox mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission
control technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content
of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from
the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox
allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient
flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work
properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section
3of this manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.5 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to
use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the
environment.
2.5.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new
products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds)
is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the
manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction
or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
Vermiculite is used for the baffle. Vermiculite is a mineral. Large commercial mines exist in
China, Russia, South Africa, and Brazil. Potassium silicate is used as a binder to form a
rigid board. Vermiculite can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Lightweight firebrick is made of pumice and cement. Pumice is volcanic rock, a naturally
green product found in the Northwest United States. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made
of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a
high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass,
so it should not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill
is recommended.

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3. Fuel
MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED
•GARBAGE;
•LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE;
•MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER, INCLUDING TIRES;
•MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC;
•WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINTS OR PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT
PRODUCTS;
•MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS;
•CONSTRUCTION OR DEMOLITION DEBRIS;
•RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE-TREATED WOOD;
•MANURE OR ANIMAL REMAINS;
•SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER PREVIOUSLY SALT WATER SATURATED
MATERIALS;
•UNSEASONED WOOD; OR
•PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD, PLYWOOD, OR PARTICLEBOARD. THE
PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE
USE OF FIRE STARTERS MADE FROM PAPER, CARDBOARD, SAW DUST, WAX
AND SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN
AFFECTED WOOD HEATER.
BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR
RENDER THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.
3.1 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.1.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.1.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content.
The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood.
Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North
America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and
yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types
for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather
in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat. Softwoods are not as
dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods
avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in
moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and
longer burn cycles are desirable.

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Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer
lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves
wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no
longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species
and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.1.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1" (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they
fit in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long makes loading the
insert very difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16"
(400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1" (25
mm) variation from piece to piece.
3.1.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry
enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have
the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3" (75 mm) should be split
to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the
firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient
stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.1.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack
of heat and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for
concerns about creosote.

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Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•Firewood takes a long time to dry;
•Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry
enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself;
•Drying happens faster in dry weather than in
damp, maritime climates;
•Drying happens faster in warm summer weather
than in winter weather;
•Small pieces dry more quickly than large
pieces;
•Split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds;
•Softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods;
•Softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being
stacked in the open for only the summer months;
•Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big;
•Firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and
wind; it takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed;
•Firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between 15 and 20% by weight
and will allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency.
3.1.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn
by using these guidelines:
•Cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry;
•As it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or
cream colored to grey or yellow;
•Bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood
sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull;
•Dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood;
•Split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels
damp, it is too wet;
•Burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.

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3.2 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated
sawdust or logs with any chemical additives. Manufactured
logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned
but use caution in the number of these logs burned at once.
Start with one manufactured log and see how the insert
reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.
4. Operating Your Insert
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be
altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
4.1 The use of a fire screen.
This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen. Make
sure the fire screen is properly secured on the insert to avoid any risk of sparks damaging
your flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the insert unattended so that you
can respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of
smoke spillage are described in Section 9 The Venting System of this manual. See
Appendix 5: Optional Fire Screen Installation for installation instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF GENERATING
CARBON MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT IS
HIGHLY TOXIC AND WHICH CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.2 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they
do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when
you first light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the
house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing
temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned
one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell
disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
4.3 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts
fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular
and effective ways to start wood fires.

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4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to
bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspapers
and place them in the firebox. Next, place 10 or
so pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper.
This kindling should be very thin; less than 1”
(25 mm). Next, place some larger kindling
pieces on the fine kindling. Open the air control
fully and light the newspaper. If you have a tall,
straight venting system you should be able to
close the door immediately and the fire will
ignite. Once the fire has ignited, close the door
and leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPEN.
ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you
have a fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does not
collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up
to two hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is
well seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place
4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2" to 3" [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base
logs at right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the
second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff
them in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper
knots by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage
of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the
fire burns from top to bottom.
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspapers between the
logs. Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across
those, log cabin style. Light the newspaper.

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4.3.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspapers. Some of these
starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals.
Follow the package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold
firebox to start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.4.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature to
rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the
fire progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household
routines. For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as
when doing housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as
when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals
and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same
size as it was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output
by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and
preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps
to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating.
The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood
is flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the
insert when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR
CONTROL FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR
SLOWLY.
4.4.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not
let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.

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The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but
there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from
coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay
hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in a closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALLIC CONTAINER OR ON A
WOODEN DECK.
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most
of the remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals
towards the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it
concentrates them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they
can ignite the new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new
load of wood. If you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for
a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so
that it will ignite the new load.
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass.
Close the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox
is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each
load of wood hot accomplishes a few things:
•drives the surface moisture from the wood,
•creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
•heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
•heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.

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Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow
the fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED
HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney, the
result will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the room
temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm.
Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little
before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning
and effective zone heating.
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for
a steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate
slows down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the
flow rate of exhaust through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for
the transfer of heat from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the
flames slow down. This is your indication that the insert is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost
disappear when you turn down the air,
you have turned down the air too early, or
your firewood is wetter than it should be.
With good fuel and correct air control use,
the flames should slow down, but should
stay large and steady, even as the air
supply is reduced.
4.5 Blower Operation
The blower has a rheostat that can be adjusted in three different
positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or closed (OFF).
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately
one hour) before turning on the blower, since increased airflow
from the blower will remove heat and affect the start-up
combustion efficiency.