EBONITE MILL DRILL User manual

EBONITE MILL DRILL OPERATIONS MANUAL
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EBONITE MILL DRILL OPERATIONS MANUAL
Table of Contents
Mill Drill Set-Up
Section (1) Receiving New Machine____________________________________3
Section (2) Locating New Machine_____________________________________3
Section (3) Preliminary Set-Up________________________________________4
Section (4) Optional Accessories_______________________________________7
Section (5) Electrical________________________________________________7
Section (6) Final Calibration__________________________________________7
Mill Drill Operations
Section (1) Pivoting Jig_____________________________________________10
Section (2) Installing Slugs__________________________________________12
Section (3) Trimming Ball Plug_______________________________________14
Section (4) Oval Holes______________________________________________14
Section (4a) Measuring Oval Holes____________________________________14
Section (4b) Proper Angle___________________________________________15
Section (4c) Width of hole___________________________________________15
Section (5) Drilling Ovals____________________________________________16
Oval Drilling Guide Chart_________________________________________18
Digital Readers
Section (1a) Programming___________________________________________19
Section (1b) LCD__________________________________________________24
Section (1c) Display Keys___________________________________________24
Section (1d) ON/OFF_______________________________________________24
Section (1e) Mode_________________________________________________24
Section (1f) Lock Mode_____________________________________________25
Section (1g) Segment Offset Adjustments_______________________________25
Section (1h) Offset Addition_________________________________________26
Section (1i) Limit Mode_____________________________________________26
Section (1j) Scaling________________________________________________27
Section (1k) Changing Batteries______________________________________27
Supplement____________________________________________________28
Service Contact Information_____________________________________29
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EBONITE MILL DRILL OPERATIONS MANUAL
Congratulations on your purchase of the Ebonite Mill Drill Machine. While all of us
at Ebonite thank you for your purchase we are also confident that you will find this
to be a great addition to your pro shop business.
Mill Drill Set-Up
Section (1) Receiving New Machine
The Mill Drill machine was packaged complete in the factory and shipped to you in this
manor for your convenience. Before removing the top and 4 sides of the crate be sure to note
if there was any damage from shipping to the crate . This is important as the freight
company should be notified immediately .
The Mill Drill Crate is 4’ x 4’ x 6 ½’ and generally will not fit through the entry doors of
the bowling center. Therefore remove the 4 sides and the top to the crate by removing all the
Phillips head screws and discard them, before attempting to move the machine in the bowling
center. Next remove the accessories, drill bits etc. from the stand and the bottom of the crate.
All of these items are placed in the storage area of the stand to keep them from moving
during shipping.
WARNING:
The Mill Drill is very TOP HEAVY.
Use EXTREME CAUTION when moving the machine.
Section (2) Locating New Machine
1. Remove the ½” lag bolts that hold the machine stand to the bottom of the wooden
crate, being careful not to tip the machine in anyway.
2. Using and appliance dolly place it under that back of the machine the motor side, ( this
step is best when there are at least 3 people, one to hold the dolly and guide the
machine and one on each side of the machine to support and help guide the machine
while moving ). When everyone is in place tip the machine back on the dolly and roll off
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of the wooden base ( Extreme care should be used as this machine is top heavy so use
caution and care )
3. Roll the machine in the center to the front of your shop, measure the width of your
door to make sure you can get the machine thru. If the door you must use is narrow
simply set the machine down and then slide the dolly under the stand from the side of
the machine ( Again use caution and, make sure you have plenty of help as the machine
is top heavy ). Now roll the machine in to your location as close as you can and set
down.
4. Remove the dolly from the machine and slide the machine into the location that you
want. Again when sliding make sure that you do not tip the machine and use care as
the machine is heavy enough to damage tile or carpet. You may find it best to place
card board under the stand to help slide in to position. Once in place tip the machine
slightly and pull the cardboard from under the machine. If the machine rocks due to the
floor being unlevel you may need to shim the sides of the stand to firm the machine up
and keep it from rocking during operation.
Section (3) Preliminary Set-Up
1. Using the silver wrench that is included loosen the two large nuts on the right hand side
of the machine. ( Right side as you are facing the machine) Pictured Below.
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2. On the left hand side of the machine there is a black crank handle, cranking this will
begin to raise the head of the machine until it is high enough to turn the head to its
proper position. Turn the head. Pictured Below.
3. Now while cranking the head up look on the right hand side of the post. When you
reach the proper height you will see a scribed line that is across the right side of the
silver post. Raise the head until that line will line is just showing under the bottom of
the head of the machine.
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4. There will also be another scribed line on that runs up and down on the post along with
another one scribed into the bottom of the head, pivot the head of the machine until
these two lines are matched up. Once this is done tighten the large nuts on the right
hand side again. This puts the head of the machine in the position that the machine
was calibrated in at the factory. This centers the head of the machine but is not the
final calibration that will come later in the set up process. ( note when tightening these
nuts make sure to tighten one then the other and go back and forth until they are tight,
Tightening one all the way first could cause damage to the head of the machine so use
caution)
5. Attach the 3 table crank handles to the table cranks and tighten set screws.
6. Next the digital are shipped with the batteries out of the unit. Remove the cover of
each digital reader and place the batteries into each unit. Use care as the clips that
hold the batteries in place are very fragile. (Do not try to bend the contacts) replace
the cover and make sure that the connecting cords are in place. Push and hold the on
button until the reader comes on. Push the mode button until it is reading in decimal
inches.
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Section (4) Optional Accessories of your new machine
1. Place the drill bit holder on the machine and unpack the drill bits and place in the holder
2. Place the Ball holder accessory arm on the left hand side of the machine and the tool
holder on the right hand side. These do have adjusting knobs so you can adjust to the
position that fits your work the best.
Section 5) Electrical set up of your new machine.
1. Plug the power cord from the control box into your wall out let. ( NOTE this should be
on 20 amp breaker) Next plug the cord from the motor into the back of the control box
in the outlet marked motor.
2. Unpack the light and place it on the left hand side of the machine and plug into the
proper outlet on the back of the control box
3. Plug your vacuum into the proper outlet
4. Plug your high speed sander in to the proper outlet
Section (6) Final Calibration of digital readers
1. Zero the table to the measurement marks forward and back as well as right and left.
2. Place a new ball in the jig and lightly tighten the safety plate onto the ball
3. Place the 3” plug trimming blade in to the chuck of the machine.
4. Turn the digital scales on and make sure that they are in decimal inches.
5. Pull the handle down to bring the blade close to the ball, turn the trimming blade with
your hand until it is straight front to back. While bringing the blade closer to the ball
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use the table handle on the front of the machine and adjust the table forward and back
until the blade fits perfectly on the ball. As a double check take a dollar bill and slide
under the front edge of the blade and then the back. If you have adjusted the table
properly you will be able to slide the bill under the blade the same amount from each
end. When this is complete go to the lower digital reader and push the Zero button
until the screen shows perfect zero. You have now calibrated the digital reader for
forward and reverse to the machine.
6. Turn the blade to a left and right position and slide your dollar bill under the left end of
the blade and then the right. Using the right or left table adjusting handle move the
table until the blade sets perfectly on the ball and check with your dollar bill again.
Then push the zero button on the upper reader.
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7. Next before moving the tables, look on the inside of the front and the right handles,
each one has a ring with marks that indicate .001 of and inch. Each of these rings has a
thumb screw, loosen the thumb screw and turn the ring so the 0 on the ring lines up on
the line, then tighten the thumb screw. This is a fail safe that is used in the event a
digital scale is not working properly. It allows you to have the same accuracy you have
with the digital scales. (Note that in the zero position the ruled scales should be on the
zero line as well)
8. Place an old ball in the jig and tighten the safety plate on top of the ball. Place the 1”
bit in the chuck and drill into the ball until only the point of the bit is in the ball then
stop and turn the machine off. Pull the down until it stops in the hole and tighten the
quill lock, then on the front of the machine there is an adjusting screw for the ruler on
the face plate on the head of the machine. Turn the adjusting screw until the marker is
on the 3” line. This is your reference for zero depth as the point of the bit does not
count when measuring the depth of the hole. From this point you can determine the
depth of the hole you want to drill with out ever needing to measure the depth every
time.
9. Now your machine is ready for operation
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Mill Drill Operations
Section (1) Pivoting Jig Option
How to use the Power House Pivoting Jig
The Pivoting jig is a 4 axis jig that is designed to allow the operator to drill all 3 holes
with out removing the ball from the jig. Using the proper sequence you can also install a
thumb slug, oval the slug and trim the slug before removing the ball. This type of drilling has
been proven to be the most accurate and the most useful in providing the value and service to
your customers.
1. Mark the ball with the lay out you have chosen. You must have the center of grip and
the finger and span lines complete.
2. Place the ball in the jig with the center of the grip straight up towards the drill chuck.
(To make the ball easier to place in the jig loosen the side locks on the outside of the
jig and roll the jig forward, once in place roll the jig back until it appears to be level
across the top)
3. Place the safety ring over the top of the ball (Note it will drop over the 2 adjusting bolts
on the left hand side of the jig and then it will slide down on the ball and align itself)
Next on the right side of the jig pull the lock nut up onto the safety plate and lightly
tighten it.
4. This step is designed to provide pin point accuracy that most machines can not provide.
Check to make sure that both your forward and reverse and left to right are set on
zero. Next place a bit in the chuck and pull the point of the bit to about 1/8 of an inch
above the ball and lock the handle into place. ( To do this use the silver handle on the
left hand side of the head of the machine, this is the quill lock and allows you to hold
the bit close to the ball so both hands will be free. Loosen the outside locks nuts and
roll the jig forward and back. If the ball is aligned perfectly straight in the jig the point
of the bit will stay above the center line on the ball. If aligned then tighten the lock
knob for the safety plate all the way and you are ready to move on. If not aligned
loosen the lock knob and adjust the ball until the center line is straight under the bit.
This step is very important as it insures a pin point accuracy and ball spec to be
duplicated no matter who is drilling them. Basically if you start from the same point
each time you drill a ball and you hit the lines they will all feel exactly the same.
5. Set the forward or reverse pitch by using the table handle on the front of the machine.
If you want reverse in the thumb or forward in the fingers the ball will need to move
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away from you. If you want left lateral the ball will move to the right, if you want right
lateral the ball will move left. As an indicator for right and left if you look at the ruled
scale on the front of the machine left will be left of zero and right will be right of zero.
6. Place the bit in the chuck for the ring finger as that will be the first hole drilled. We start
with the ring finger first as it is generally the smaller of the fingers and if you were to
select the wrong bit it can be fixed with out needing to plug the ball. There are two
preferred methods of drilling a ball. We recommend drilling fingers first for the
following reasons. A Fingers first provides a safety net as if you miss a line while
drilling the fingers you can compensate before drilling the thumb with compromising
the accuracy. When drilling fingers first it allows you to drill grip holes and place the
grips in the hole then pull a thumb span by using a span tool and making an arc from
each hole with the finger grips in place. This means you only need to worry about the
full span and not have to subtract the thickness of the grips from the span when
marking the ball. This process allows for more accuracy and saves time in the drilling
process.
7. Align the bit to the bridge line first. This can be done by rotating the chuck with your
hand until the blade on the bit is left to right. Then loosen the to lateral lock knobs on
the front of the jig and rotate the jig left to right until the edge of the bit is on the line.
( Remember you can bring the bit close the ball and tighten the quill lock so that both
hands are free) Tighten the lateral locks. Next turn the chuck by hand until the blade is
front to back, then loosen the side locks and rotate the jig forward or back until the
edge of the bit is on your line and tighten the outside lock knobs.
8. Drill the ring finger hole to the desired depth. We recommend 1 1/2” deep for finger
tips weather using grips or not. This allows enough room for most grips to be installed
with out the need for cutting them. It also will keep the amount of weight removed
from the fingers close to the same as the thumb making it less likely to make an error
in the balance of the ball.
9. Next change the bit the desired size for the middle finger.
10.Set the pitches for the middle finger
11.Align the bit to the lines by moving the jig
12.Drill the hole to the desired depth
13.Remove the drill bit and if using finger inserts place them in the ball. ( Do not loosen
the safety plate) Next using your span tool if you have already marked your thumb
span on the ball take a moment to double check making sure your line is still correct. If
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it is not you can change it at this point by making an arc from each finger using the
proper span for each finger. By following this process you have check points that allow
you to prevent a costly mistake.
14.Place the bit in the chuck needed for the thumb hole
15.Loosen the front lateral locks and align bit to your line left and right and tighten the
locks. Next loosen the side locks and align the bit to your line by rotating the jig
forward or back until the edge of the bit is on your line and tighten the locks
Section (2) Installing Slugs
There are many ways to install slugs into the ball, some are easier than others. The old
way was to mark where the slug would go then drill the hole and then take the ball out of the
jig to the bench and then glue the slug and drive in with a hammer, then cut the top off of the
slug and remark the ball and put back in the jig. The following steps are the simplest
procedure and you will find to be the most accurate.
1. Mark the ball as you normally would for the correct span (Remember that if using finger
grips and you are drilling the thumb first you must subtract the thickness of the finger
grip from the full span
2. Place ball in machine—when ready to drill the thumb hole set your pitches then align
the ball using the drill bit for the thumb size. At this point it is just to align the ball.
When everything is aligned and you are ready to drill remove the thumb bit and replace
it with the size for the slug you want to use. Next drill into the ball until the point of
the bit is in the ball and stop. Take the slug you are going to use and hold it up to the
rule indicator on the front of the machine. Doing this allows you to determine the
proper depth so that you leave only 1/8th inch of material above the ball. Drill the hole
to that depth.
3. Remove the bit and vacuum all dust and residue from the hole
4. Take your slug and try it in the hole to see if it is too tight. You should be able to slide
it into the hole about 1/3 of the way. If the slug is to tight Loosen the outside locks
and roll the ball forward towards you and lightly sand the hole being very careful not
bevel the top of the hole. When you have it correct loosen the outside locks and roll
the ball back then place the slug bit back in the chuck and use the bit to realign the
ball. When complete you can pull the bit back in the hole.
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5. Place a small amount of glue in the hole about an inch below the surface then take the
slug your are wanting to use and place at the top of the hole, set another slug on top of
it and then pull the chuck down to the slugs. Next continue pulling the chuck down
until the slug seats in the bottom of the hole. CAUTION IF THE HOLE IS TO TIGHT
USING THIS PROCESS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE MACHINE—BE SURE TO FOLLOW
STEP 4 ALSO IF YOU STOP BEFORE THE SLUG IS ALL THE WAY IN THE BALL IT WILL
SET UP AND AGAIN TRYING TO FORCE IT IN WITH THE MACHINE WILL CAUSE
DAMAGE AS WELL—Make sure once you start pulling the slug in that you continue with
out stopping.
6. Next place the thumb size back in the chuck and drill thru the bottom of the slug—
Remember you must drill thru the bottom of the hole for the ball to be legal.
7. If you are drilling an oval in the hole now follow those steps
8. After all drilling is complete we are ready to trim the remaining material. We will use the
3” trimming blade that came with the machine. CAUTION WHEN USING THIS TOLL DO
NOT EVER REACH YOUR HANDS NEAR THE BLADE OR HAVE LOOSE CLOTHING AS IT
COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY Place the trimming blade in the chuck
9. Take a yellow pencil and draw lines all of the way around the slug approximately 3”
away from the slug all the way around. These are safety lines as when you get close to
the ball the blade will actually scuff these lines before it cuts the ball. Following this
step is important as you can damage a ball very severely if not using the tool properly.
10.Set both all pitches to zero and using the pivoting motion of the jig center the slug
under the blade. Also double check to make sure that you are not to close to the top
plate as the blade can damage that as well. In the event you are to close loosen the
top plate and realign the ball this way then tighten the plate.
11.Start the machine and slowly bring the blade to the slug. Start your cut slow as the
blade will only cut on part of the slug. Continue until you see he scuff lines on the ball
and stop. If your machine has been calibrated properly the slug should trimmed flush
with the ball.
12.Remove the ball and bevel the hole
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Section (3) Trimming Ball Plug
Again for this job we will use the 3” trimming blade provided with the machine and
follow the same safety procedures described above
1. Set all pitches on the machine to zero
2. Place the ball in the machine with plugged area directly under the drill chuck
3. Tighten the top plate
4. Using a yellow pencil draw lines around the plugged area
5. Turn machine on and slowly bring the blade to the ball—advance the blade slowly as it
will only cut on part of the slug at first. Continue slowly until the blade had reached
your yellow lines
6. Remove the ball from the jig and finish as you normally would
NOTE: Anytime you are using the trimming blade extreme care should be used.
This tool is a great time saver but used improperly it can also damage a ball or
cause injury.
Section (4) Oval Holes
Drilling an oval hole is an extra that you can provide for your customers. This gives the
customer a special comfort and feel that many have never felt. If you have never drilled these
before we suggest some practice before working with a customer. The following is the
process when using the Mill Drill machine. There are a few things to remember when using
ovals.
Section (4a) Measuring for Oval Holes
1. Drilling an oval does not change the pitch when done properly. The oval cuts are
parallel to the hole that was drilled
2. If your cuts are to large you will leave crease lines from the bottom of the hole to the
top that will need to be removed with a flat file. This just causes more work and time.
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3. Keep records of each cut you make in the process on your drill sheet as you should be
able to duplicate any cut you make at anytime on any ball
4. First oval customers may not like the feel as the purpose of the oval is get grip pressure
on the pad of the thumb and fingers for better control and feel. So be sure you explain
properly up front with first time customer
5. Done properly can keep customers coming back for many years
6. When drilling the first oval for a customer we recommend that they are there for the
entire process as you can be more accurate, after the first one the Mill Drill machine will
allow you to recreate or duplicate each step as long as you noted each move on your
spec sheet. GOOD NOTES ARE EVERYTHING!!!
Section (4b) Determining the Proper Angle
There are many ways to determine the angle for an oval hole. The simplest however is
by using a Pro Sect Lay out tool. This tool has a straight edge for drawing the center lie but
also has a protractor ring attached as part of the tool.
1. First mark the center line of the grip on the ball you are using. This will be a line that
runs between the fingers and thru the thumb. It is best if this is an existing ball the
customer is using Next place their fingers in the ball and slide the thumb into the first
knuckle.
2. Take a yellow pencil and mark a line on the ball that follows the knuckle of the thumb.
This is the true angle the oval should be cut on
3. Next take the Pro Sect and align the flat part with the line you made and slide it up to
the center of the hole. When in this position look at the protractor and read the degree
that is on the center line of the grip
4. Take this number and mark on your Drill Sheet
Section (4c) Determining the Width of the Hole
Again there are many ways in which this can be done and as you become more
proficient in drilling ovals you may even find a new way. However the following is
recommended for the Mill Drill machine as it has been proven to be the simplest method.
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1. Using the calipers that were supplied with your Mill Drill machine measure the thickness
of the thumb. Simply slide the calipers up and down over the knuckle. Once you have
the setting that will gently slide up and down on the thumb mark that on your drill
sheet as the thumb hole size.
2. Next using the calipers now slide them up and down the side of the thumb. When you
have this measurement simply note it on the side of you drill sheet.
3. Subtract the thickness from the width and that is how much you need to add to the
hole in width. NOTE this is the total that you need to cut not the number that you
move the tables. When using movements of both X and Y it basically adds 1/3 to the
cut. In other words if you wanted to make a cut at 45degrees and add 30 thousandths
in width to the hole you would move X (which is Left or right) .021 and then you would
move Y (which is forward and back) .021 Then when you run the bit back in the
existing hole it will add .030 to the hole at 45 degrees
4. Another example would be if found the width you needed to add to the hole was .090
we know you are only going to move the tables .060 You could move X .060 and then
Y .060 then bring the bit back into the hole and it will add .090 in width.
Section (5) Drilling Ovals
Now that you have your measurements you are ready to drill the hole. If you have
used a slug the process will begin after the thumb size has been drilled but before the top of
the slug is trimmed. You can make this cut with the excess slug there and it won’t hurt a
thing.
1. Drill the initial thumb hole with the proper pitches in place. Do not move the jig or the
pitch tables before drilling the oval as it will compromise your accuracy.
2. Determine if the width can be cut in one cut or multiple cuts. Remember if you make
to large of a cut it will leave crease lines in the front and back of the hole that will need
to worked out by hand
3. 45 Degree cuts are simple as they require the same movements of X and Y In other
words equal movements will create a 45 degree angle.
4. Make you table movement for X Remember that you can reset your digital to Decimals
by pushing the mode button and it will count for you as you move the table. Also
remember you always make your cuts to the back of the hole as cutting the front will
compromise your span measurement. To check yourself simply pull the bit to the edge
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5. Make your table movement for Y again double checking yourself by pulling the bit close
to the ball making sure you’re going to cut where you want.
6. When you’re sure you have moved the right direction turn the machine on and slowly
pull the bit into the hole. It’s important to remember to go slow as you advance the
bit. There is no cutting on the point of the bit so going faster than the blade will cut
will result in bit drift. Don’t rush this process
7. If this is only cut you need to make then follow the procedure for removing the top of
the slug and remove the ball.
8. It may be helpful to have the customer actually there and slide there thumb in the ball
if this is the first oval you have sized for them. Simply remove the bit from the chuck
and leave the ball in the machine. If you need to cut more put the bit back in, make
your x and y movements and make your next cut.
9. Remember to keep track of the movements for each cut on your drill sheet for future
drillings. Also we have included a chart that will break down the movements for any
angle you may need. This can be a very helpful tool as well. Fitting and drilling ovals
ma take some practice so work on your equipment some first to raise your comfort
level.
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OVAL DRILLING GUIDE
For drilling an oval at angle
alpha back a distance Z you
must move the table a distance
X over and Y up.
OVAL
ANGLE
(ALPHA
DEGREES)
OVAL WIDTH (Z) (THOUSANDS, 0.001”)
15 30 45 60 75 90 105 120
X Y X Y X Y X Y X Y X Y X Y X Y
20 14 5 28 10 42 15 56 21 70 26 85 31 99 36 113 41
25 13.5 6.5 27 13 40.5 19.5 54 25 67.5 31.5 82 38 95.5 44.5 109 51
30 13 7.5 26 15 39 22.5 52 30 65 37.5 78 45 91 52.5 104 64
35 12.5 8.5 25 17 37.5 25.5 49 34 61.5 42.5 74 52 86.5 60.5 98 69
40 11.5 9.5 23 19 34.5 28.5 46 39 57.5 48.5 69 58 80.5 67.5 92 77
45 10.5 10.5 21 21 31.5 31.5 42 42 52.5 52.5 64 64 74.5 74.5 85 85
50 9.5 11.5 19 23 28.5 34.5 39 46 48.5 57.5 58 69 67.5 80.5 77 92
55 8.5 12.5 17 25 25.5 37.5 34 49 42.5 61.5 52 74 60.5 86.5 69 98
60 7.5 13 15 26 22.5 39 30 52 37.5 65 45 78 52.5 91 64 104
65 6.5 13.5 13 27 19.5 40.5 25 54 31.5 67.5 38 82 44.5 95.5 51 109
70 5 14 10 28 15 42 21 56 26 70 31 85 36 99 41 113
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Digital Reader Program Instructions
Section (1a) Programming
Several functions of the digital display are user programmable. The following instructions
describe what features are available and how to change the system’s defaults to customize the
display for a particular application.
The Keys pictured have multiple functions. Timing, which is how long a key, is depressed, and
the combination of the keys pressed is important. This manual uses the term “ momentarily ”
to describe a key press of typically less then 1 second. Whereas “ press and hold ” is used to
imply a key press of typically longer then 1.5 seconds. As an example when using a PC
keyboard to type a CAPITAL letter you would “ press and hold ” the SHIFT key and
“ momentarily ” depress the appropriate letter key.
The “ function ” associated with the key(s) pressed is executed on the key RELEASE, not the
key DEPRESS. This is important since some keys execute different functions based on how
long they are depressed. These key operations, once tried, quickly become intuitive.
ON/OFF MODE
+
0
-
To enter programming mode, press and hold the MODE and then momentarily press the 0
(zero) key. The MODE key must be held for approximately 1 second before the depression of
the 0 (zero) key.
Once you are in the Programming Mode,
momentarily pressing the MODE key will advance
through the Programming Parameter list.
To step backwards in the Programming Parameter list press and hold the ON/OFF key and
momentarily press the MODE key.
Momentarily pressing the + (plus) key while displaying a Programming Parameter will increase
the parameter setting.
Momentarily pressing the – (minus) key while displaying a Programming Parameter will
decrease the parameter setting.
Momentarily pressing the 0 (zero) key while displaying a Programming Parameter will revert
the parameter to its factory default setting.
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CAUTION: The Limit Mode (See Programming 14, 15, 16, 17) functionality is still active even
while the display is in programming mode. Changing LIMITS may result in the Limit/Monitor
Signal hardware output becoming active immediately.
To exit programming mode, press and hold the MODE key and then momentarily press the 0
(zero) key.
The Display will automatically exit programming mode after 60 seconds of no key activity.
Programming Parameters are listed below. Values in [] are the available range of values that
can be programmed for that entry. Factory defaults are shown in bold.
Pr0 – Encoder Direction [0, 1]
Change value to reverse the direction of measurement readings.
Pr1 – Enable/Disable Segment Offset [0, 1]
0 = For ABSOLUTE scales shorter than 430mm, (16.9in). ALL
Incremental scales.
1 = for all ABSOLUTE scales longer than 430mm, (16.9in).
Pr2 – High Speed Read Head [0, 1]
0 = Normal Read Head.
1 = High Speed Read Head.
Use this setting only if instructed by special instructions included with
High Speed Read heads. A setting of 1 will impact battery life.
Pr3 – Enable/Disable the +, - and ZERO keys [0, 1]
0 = Disables operation of Zero, + and – keys (Display will be in Lock
Mode.)
1 = Enables operation of Zero, + and – keys.
Pr4 – Display Resolution [0, 1 or 2]
Sets the display resolution in
decimal mode. (No change in fractions
Mode.)
0 = Reduced resolution Inch = xxx.xx MM = xx.x
1 = Normal resolution Inch = xxx.xxx MM = xx.xx
2 = Increased resolution Inch = xx.xxxx MM = xx.xx (Inch
mode only)
Auto scaling will allow measurements of over 100 inches when in
High resolution.
Measurements over 100 inches will automatically be reduced to 3
Decimal places.
REV A 12-2-05 20