Ecosy+ PANORAMIC 9 MULTI-FUEL User manual

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Brought to you by
Ecosy+ Stoves, Hampshire
ADDRESS
CONTACT
Telephone: + 44 1256 830099
PANORAMIC 9 MULTI-FUEL MANUAL

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SAFETY
•Please take care when handling the stove. It will
usually require 2 people to li it.
•The stove is only designed to burn wood and
smokeless fuel. No other fuels are permied.
•Ensure that a working Carbon Monoxide alarm ed
in the room of the appliance.
•Ensure the stove is correctly installed and signed o.
CHIMNEY FIRE PROSEDURE.
1.Call the re brigade
2.Ensure all air vents and ue dampers are shut to reduce the
chimney re's oxygen supply
3.Move ammable materials, furniture, ornaments away from the
replace
4.Feel the chimney breast throughout the house - if it is geng hot
then move furniture away from it
5.Do not pour water on the re if you have a stove
Causes of chimney res
The biggest cause of chimney res is a build-up of deposits such as
wood tar or coal soot. As these build up over me, the risk of
chimney re becomes greater. The deposits will release
combusble volales as they heat up from the re below.
Eventually, these may ignite if the temperature reaches ignion
point.
The easiest and most eecve way to stop this happening is regular
cleaning of the ue/chimney. This should be done in rao to the re
usage. We recommend ue sweeping at least once a year.
TECHNICAL INFORMATION COVERING THE PANORAMIC
9 MULTI-FUEL
PANORAMIC 9 MULTI-FUEL
Outlet Size
5”
Defra Approved
Yes
Heat Output
Wood: Nominal 7kw - Low Output 4.8kw - High
Output 9.5kw
Smokeless Coal: 6.3kw
Eciency
Wood: 76.1% Smokeless Coal: 78.8%
DIN Plus Dust (at 13% O2)
Wood: 13 Smokeless Coal: 31
Mean NOX (at 13% O2)
Wood: 68 Smokeless Coal: 155
Mean CnHm (at 13% O2)
Wood: 67 Smokeless Coal: 32

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Mean CO emissions
Wood: 0.10 Smokeless Coal: 0.12
Hearth Temperature
66.7c
Flue gas mass ow g/s
Wood: 7.0 Smokeless Coal: 5.0
Mean Flue Gas Temp
Wood: 286 Smokeless Coal: 295
Distance to Combusbles at the Rear
425mm
Distance to Combusbles at the Side
250mm
Hetas Clean Air Approved
Yes ( Wood )
Adjustable Feet
Yes
Weight 140KG
Diagrams
Panoramic 9 Mul-Fuel.

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1 – Wooden Handle 2 – Door 3 – Glass 4 – Front right side re brick –5 – Back right side re brick 6 – Primary bae plate 7 – Secondary
bae plate 8 – Back re brick 9 – Top blanking plate 10 – Steel body 11 – Secondary slider 12 – Direct air box 13 – air ow piece 14 – Air
ow bar 15 – back le re brick 16 - Front le re brick 17 – Grate 18 – Grate cradle 19 – Ash pan 20 – Log guard 21 – Primary air slide 22
– Primary air knob
ASSEMBLY
Your stove is fully built and almost ready to go. All you need to do is aach the ue collar that is boxed inside the re, marked “Chimney”.
FLUE PIPE ON TOP
If you are aaching the ue to the top of the stove, you will need to remove the blanking plate that is currently on top. To do this you will
need a Philips screwdriver and 10mm spanner. You can access the nuts holding the blanking plate on through the stove’s rear ue outlet
that will currently be open. Place the spanner on each 10mm nut as you unscrew from above. When the nuts have been removed the
blanking plate will come o. You can then aach the ue collar on top with the bolts going down into the stove.
Reaching through the rear ue, place a washer and then nut on each thread and screw from above, whilst holding the nut with the
10mm spanner. When the collar is on you can then x the blanking plate that came o the top onto the rear. Place the bolts through the rear
blanking plate and line each one up with the pre-drilled hole on the stove. Reaching through the top outlet this me, place each washer and
nut on. When they are all in place, begin to ghten each one with the screwdriver, whilst holding the nut in place with the 10mm spanner.

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FLUE PIPE AT REAR
If you are aaching a ue pipe to the rear, the blanking plate will remain on top, and the ue collar will simply bolt onto the rear with
provided ngs and via the same method as above. The bae does not need removing to t the ue outlet in place. If you are aaching
the oponal custom rear ue box, this will bolt on the rear of the stove and the ue collar will then x onto this. The custom rear ue box
helps customs who need to come out of the stove rear, but want to avoid having the stove scking out too far.
Your stove is now assembled and ready for ng!
HEARTH
The Panoramic 9 is suitable for a 12mm free standing, non-construconal hearths - see diagram below, marked (b). This is allowed because
each model’s base does not exceed 100°C. The hearth must be made from a non-combusble material strong enough to stand the weight
of the re. Further diagrams relang to construconal hearths are aached belo w. For example, you could use a 12mm thick glass hearth
and have that sat directly onto a wooden oor. Please note that the minimum hearth size for a free-standing stove is 840mm x 840mm

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AIR SUPPLY / VENTILATION / CHIMNEY DRAW / SMOKE
SPILLAGE
Your stove will require a constant air supply and should not be used at the same me and in the same room/space as extractor fans or any
device which may draw air supply away from the stove unless the re is connected to its direct air feed socket. This unit is over 5kw and will
require venlaon. This can either be achieved via an air brick in the room, allowing the stove to draw in ambient air. Or, you can connect
up the direct air feed and have it pass through the wall. The stove will then draw air directly from the outside. Having a direct air feed ed
is not always required but can help if you have a poor drawing chimney. Something which is more common on a twin walled insulated
system.
If the stove is drawing in air directly from the room, ensure the direct air spigot at the rear has at least 50mm gap from the back wall to
ensure oxygen can freely ow into the re. If you nd the stove draws well with the door ajar but oen dies when the door is closed, it
could be caused by a lack of oxygen able to ow through that spigot, or a lack of free oxygen in the room in general.
The tesng for this model has been carried out on a chimney with a rang of 12 Pascals and this is industry standard. Anything less than
this approved rang could cause smoke to spill from the stove into the room. The chimney is oen overlooked by the end user but has a
huge bearing on how the re will perform. The chimney creates sucon that pulls the smoke up the chimney and out, opposed to forcing it
out of the re and into the room. The most common cause for a chimney not performing well is the fact it is cold. Cold air sinks the smoke
down, whereas a warmer chimney draws the smoke up and out. This issue is most common on twin-walled chimney systems and exposed
brick chimneys on the gable end of a house. Geng heat up the chimney as quickly as possible will help to ensure this negave pressure is
reversed as quickly as possible. The minimum chimney height required for this unit is 4.5 meters. The complete system must have fewer
than 4 bends and each bend should be 45 degrees or under. You can exit from the rear of the re and aach our custom rear ue box or a
90-degree T piece. Ensure single skin ue pipe is kept away from combusble materials as this will get very hot.
If you are installing into a brick chimney, we would suggest lining the chimney with an approved exible liner. (316 or 904 grade) Doing so
will increase the stove eciency. Do not connect or share the ue or chimney.
CHIMNEY LINING
When purchasing exible ue liner, or twin walled ue, 6” diameter is required if the Defra stop is not ed. If the Defra stop is in place a
5” liner or twin-walled ue can be installed. It is against the law to install a 5” liner on a woodburning stove unless it has the required Defra
ng in place. The ue pipe must be ed INSIDE the ue spigot and sealed with a generous amount of Fire Cement. Access should be

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provided for cleaning the ue to ensure that the passageways for exhaust gases remain free from obstrucon. This stove cannot be installed
into a shared ue.
AIR CONTROL
The Panoramic has a bar under the stove and when this is pushed le, the vent is closed and right, the vent is open… it’s that simple. The
stoves have an inner and outer shell and all the air being fed into the re is funnelled between these two layers. When the vent is opened,
air is drawn up the rear and rstly fed through the series of holes posioned in the bae plate (the large piece of metal bolted in at the
rear). Air owing through here helps to feed air into the chamber and re-burn the inial smoke produced by the re. This is a unique design
and one of the key reasons why this stove range is extremely clean burning. Air that is not fed through these holes connues to travel
between the two layers and is then dispersed at speed over the glass. This heated and speeding eect is key to keeping the class clean.
The stove also has a primary air ow vent on the door. This is to add addional air under the re when burning smokeless coal. Wood does
not need a great deal of primary air, however smokeless coal does.
When you light the re, you will want the vents fully open and in most cases the door ajar slightly. When tesng the stove, this was le ajar
for 3 minutes when rst lighng the stove and on re-fuelling. However, this will depend on how well the chimney is drawing. When the re
is established to some degree the door can be closed and the vents gradually closed. If you close the vent down too early before the re is
established, it could go out and/or increase smoke output. When the stove is burning hot and is well established you can turn the re right
down. If done at the right me and with the right fuel, it will die right back and gently burn away for a long me. If you are burning wood,
the primary vent should be closed o rst and then the burn rate of the re controlled with the base lever. If you are burning smokeless
coal, this primary vent will remain open for longer, as the coals need more air underneath them opposed to air owing over them. The base
lever in most cases can be closed by around three quarters and the burn rate of the coals dictated by the primary air.
When you come to refuel, if there is insucient burning material in the re bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can
occur. Refuelling must be carried out onto a sucient quanty of glowing embers and ash that the new fuel charge will ignite in a
reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the re bed, add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke.
We do not suggest mixing wood and smokeless coal, as this can create an acid which can rot the internal parts of the stove and chimney
liner.
FUEL OVERLOADING
Overloading can cause excess smoke.
Dampers le open.
Operaon with the air control or appliance dampers open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be operated with air controls,
appliance dampers or door le open except as directed in the instrucons.
Operaon with door le open.
Operaon with the door open can cause excess smoke. The appliance must not be operated with the appliance door le open except as
directed in the instrucons.

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SMOKE FREE ZONES
REGULATIONS
All Naonal and local regulaons, including those referring to naonal and European standards, need to be complied with when installing
the stove.
THE CLEAN AIR ACT 1993 AND SMOKE CONTROL AREAS
Under the Clean Air Act local authories may declare the whole or part of the district of the authority to be a smoke control area. It is an
oence to emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace or from any xed boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It
is also an oence to acquire an “unauthorised fuel” for use within a smoke control area unless it is used in an “exempt” appliance
(“exempted” from the controls which generally apply in the smoke control area).
In England appliances are exempted by publicaon on a list by the Secretary of State in accordance with changes made to secons 20 and 21
of the Clean Air Act 1993 by secon 15 of the Deregulaon Act 2015. Similarly, in Scotland appliances are exempted b y publicaon on a list
by Scosh Ministers under secon 50 of the Regulatory Reform (Scotland) Act 2014. In Northern Ireland appliances
are exempted by publicaon on a list by the Department of Agriculture, Environment and Rural Aairs under Secon 16 of the
Environmental Beer regulaon Act (Northern Ireland) 2016. In Wales appliances are exempted by regulaons made by Welsh Ministers.
Further informaon on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found here:
hps://www.gov.uk/smoke-control-area-rules
The Panoramic 9 has both been recommended as suitable for use in smoke control areas when burning seasoned wood logs. Each
appliance has been factory ed with a screw that prevents the full closure of the vent. If you are not in a smoke free zone, this can be
removed.
Your local authority is responsible for implemenng the Clean Air Act 1993 including designaon and supervision of smoke control areas
and you can contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements.
The Panoramic 9 has a small metal plate xed to the le of the air control lever underneath the stove. This can only be removed if you are
not in a smoke free zone and have installed a 6” chimney system or greater.
Please note the following advice on minimising smoke emissions:
FUEL
Wood- All types of wood are suitable provided they are well seasoned, UNTREATED, and have a
moisture level between 12% and 20%. For so woods, typically they will need to have been le in
suitable storage for 9+ months for the moisture to evaporate. For hardwoods, this will usually be
18 months+. It is recommended that logs should be no more than 5” (125mm) in diameter and 8”
(200mm) in length. If you are unsure of the moisture content of your fuel, then you can buy a
moisture meter which will indicate the moisture levels in your fuel. Liquid fuels must NEVER be
used.
WARNING: Wet mber should not be used as this will create excess tar deposits in the chimney
and stove and could increase the risk of chimney re. Timber which is not of a suitable moisture
content will also create more smoke and harmful emissions and will damage the stove and ue
system. If you are buying wood, always look out for the “Ready To Burn” logo. Suppliers who sign
up to this have regular checks to ensure that the wood they are selling is below a certain moisture
content and is consistent with what they are adversing.

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Solid Fuel – Solid mineral fuel should be placed in the stove so that there is no more than a 30° incline of the fuel bed from front to back. It
should not be stacked above the level of the rear rebrick as this may result in damage to the stove. Always de-ash before refueling and do
not let the ash build up to the underside of the grate. Solid mineral fuel produces ash, which if allowed to build up will se the airow
through the Primary air inlet. This will eventually cause the re to go out. With some solid mineral fuels, a residue of burnt fuel or clinker
will accumulate on the grate. Allow the re to go out periodically to remove this. Important! - We cannot stress rmly enough how
important it is to empty the ashpan regularly. Air passing through the re bed cools the grate down. Distoron or burning out the grate bars
is nearly always caused by ash being allowed to build up to the underside of the grate. Anthracite is an approved natural smokeless fuel
(not processed) and therefore can vary greatly in quality and performance. It generally requires excellent air supply and above average re-
bed temperatures to maintain maximum performance and with experience we would suggest that it is used in conjuncon with other
approved manufactured smokeless fuels as per the HETAS approved list hp://www.hetas.co.uk/nd-fuels/ . Smokeless fuels
LIGHTING MY STOVE
Prior to lighng the re for the rst me, ensure that
•Installaon and building work is complete.
•The chimney is suitable and sound and has been swept and free from obstrucon.
•Adequate venlaon and provision for combuson air has been made.
•The stove installaon has been carried out in accordance with Building Regulaons and any applicable local regulaons as well as
these installaon instrucons.
•Chimney draw has been checked and within specicaon. (The stove has been tested at nominal output with a ue draught of 12
Pa) INITIAL CURING AND TEMPERING FIRES.
ESSENTIAL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE
It is essenal to follow these ‘tempering-in’ instrucons in order to avoid serious damage to your stove. The casngs of your stove require
very gentle ‘normalising’ to release stresses in the metal formed during the casng process. The paint nish also requires an inial curing
process to be followed and will release a smell when burning o: For the rst few burns we suggest opening a window to get rid of the
smell.
You will need to have at least two controlled small wood res, each re lasng around 40 minutes – the second re can be started when the
stove is almost cooled down. Aer these res you can increase the fuel load but sll control the re for another few burns as the paint may
sll be curing and in a fragile state. Starng a large re too soon is likely to damage the stove in which case it will not be covered by the
warranty. Note: the paint on any new stove is relavely so. As such do not clean, wash, or wipe the surface unl the paint has fully cured.
Never wipe the stove whilst warm. If the above advice is ignored, then there is a high risk of the paint being “shocked” by excessive heat
and could peel. Furthermore, if the stove is over red it will invalidate your guarantee.
ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE LIGHTING THE FIRE, AND THAT YOU ARE CONFIDENT THE
STOVE HAS BEEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY.
ALWAYS WEAR A PROTECTIVE GLOVE WHEN REFUELLING YOUR STOVE.
TIPS

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IGNITION
(FOLLOW INITITAL TEMPERING INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE FIRST TO AVOID DAMAGE)
•Construct a pile of kindling in the middle of the bed using approx 500g of kindling wood. Stacking the wood like Jenga blocks can
help, as this allows lots of air to ow through.
•Ensure the vents are fully open to allow lots of free air into the stove
•Light with a single relighter.
•Leave the door ajar slightly as that begins to catch. ( Around 3 minutes )
•Aer a few minutes’ add your rst log or two and then connue to leave the door ajar.
•When the burn becomes established, you can close the door; from there, as the re gains in momentum and the rebox
increases in heat, you can begin closing the vents down. ( For further informaon on sengs please see secon marked “ Air
Controls “
•Once the load burns down to embers you can re-load the re. If the stove is nice and warm with plenty of embers, you may not
have to have the door ajar.
FIRST USE TROUBLESHOOTING
When the stove is new the paint is very tacky where the stove is curing. The door locks very ghtly and when opened can pull away the re
rope from its chamber. If the instrucons are followed above this should not happen. However, if it does, the rope will need to be stuck
back in place with “heat resistant re rope glue” Aer a few burns the paint will be cured and this should no longer happen.
In some cases, you glass can go black in the rst few burns. This happens because the stove is not running hot. When the stove gets up to
temperature this should begin to burn o. If it does not, the glass may need cleaning with a stove glass cleaner or a damp cloth that has
been dipped in the ash.
Under certain abnormal weather condions, for example down draughts, it may be dicult to get sucient draw through the appliance to
achieve good combuson. When this happens, the stove should not be used.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
When cold, the inside of the stove should be given a regular sweep out.
The ue and ue pipe will require cleaning with a suitable chimney brush, to minimise build-up of soot and tar. Your chimney will also
require periodic sweeping. We would suggest using a registered and qualied chimney sweep. If the glass becomes stained from the inside,
the air-wash vent may need opening more during use. The high temperature paint which your stove is nished in should last many years
with normal use, but when it does eventually require re-nishing, black heat resistant paint in spray cans can be purchased from most
hardware stores. We would suggest using “Calre at black paint”. Do not use regular paint which is not high temperature resistant. Aer
prolonged periods of not using the re, the stove and ue system should be checked for blockages prior to relighng. We recommend
regular servicing and safety checks are carried out by a qualied engineer. There must be no unauthorised modicaon of the appliance.
Use only replacement parts recommended by the manufacturer.

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Bae Plate Removal
If you have not installed an access hatch into the rst length of ue pipe and need to remove the bae plate to gain access for cleaning,
you can do this by following the below steps.
1. Remove the log retainer and base re brick.
2. Remove the side and back re bricks.
3. Unbolt the bae plate. The bae plate is held in with 2 x 10mm nuts that x into a thread, which is wound into the body of the
stove. You only need to remove the nut to slide the bae plate away but somemes these are s and will bring the thread with
it but should easily wind back in place. Ensure the at heat resistant re rope seal is in good condion before reaaching the
bae. If the seal is not connecng with the stove body, excess air will spill into the stove, making the air wash and secondary
burn less eecve. We would also suggest adding a lile bit of copper grease these bolts and the handle bolts when a service is
carried out. Keeping this copper greased will ensure they remain easy to remove in years to come. The rope for the bae is a
generic 10mm wide self-adhesive re rope that can be readily found online.
Replacing the Fire Rope
If your re rope has become frayed and is no longer making a good contact, it will need replacing. To change the rope, we suggest removing
the door and laying it at. To remove the door, you need to lever up the boom door pin, that will have a small head on it. When this is
removed, the door will drop down and pull away. When removed you can pull away the old rope and clean out the groove, ensuring it is
free of debris. Make a note of how the rope was laid as this will make laying the new rope easier. When the groove is clean, line it with a
connuous bead of heat resistant rope glue. You can then lay the rope in the groove pressing it as you go and cung o any excess. Allow
at least 30 minutes for this to dry before re-aaching the door.
Changing glass
To change the glass, you will rst need to remove the door. To do this you need to lever up the boom door pin and this will have a small
head on it. When this is removed, the door will drop down and pull away. Note: On newer models there is a small Alen key thread pinching
this pin in place. This will need removing before the pin can be removed. When removed, lay down the door with the handle facing down.
Begin removing the small glass clips. When removed you can take the old glass out and pop the new one in. When in place, ensure it is
making good contact with the re rope. If that has been checked, you can re-aach the clips and gently pinch them up. Overghtening
these clips can cause the glass to break.
GUARANTEE
The main body of your stove is guaranteed for 5 years on the Panoramic 9
Incorrect use or installaon not carried out by a registered HETAS installer will void the guarantee. The only excepons will be if the install
has been signed o by your local authority or suitably qualied Oec installer. In addion to this the stove must be serviced annually by a
suitably accredited chimney sweep or stove installer. For example, HETAS / METAC / NACS. In this service any perishable parts that are
damaged will need replacing. Please keep hold of these receipts, as they will most likely be required in an unlikely event that a claim was to
be made. We will only ever be liable for the stove itself and will not cover the cost of installaon or de-installaon of
a product. We urge customers to check the stove over prior to it being installed to double check there is no courier damage or obvious
defects with the stove. Any potenal Issues are easier to resolve before the stove is installed.

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Notes:
If a re brick is only split but is sll fully protecng the shell, then it does not always need replacing in the service. They only need replacing
when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s shell.
If the seal is leaking air into the re this does need changing right away. Any excess air could cause the burner to over re. In some cases,
the rope is ne, and the handle simply needs adjusng to make the door lock a lile ghter.
If the glass is not split and is only crazed, then it does not need replacing to keep in line with the guarantee terms.
Please keep a record of all services as this will be required if a claim is ever put forward.
As a company we will only ever be responsible for the product itself and would not cover installaon / de-installaon of any product that
did have to replaced.
The guarantee period will begin when the stove has been invoiced. Please keep hold of your invoice as this will be requested if a claim is
started. If this is not provided upon request, we will not be able to escalate your claim. The guarantee will begin from the sale date on the
invoice, and we do not cover any cost incurred when removing faulty appliances or installing new ones, even if it has been proven that the
stove is faulty. For full guarantee details please visit www.ecosystoves.co.uk. With every claim we will require a signed copy of the sign-o
sheet.

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BROKEN FIRE BRICKS
It is common for vermiculite bricks to break. They are fully heat resistant but can be quite fragile.
The most common bricks to break are the base and back bricks as these take the brunt of abuse. ( wood only models have a base brick ) To
ensure the longevity of you r re bricks, please ensure that you gently place fuel in the re and do not over stack fuel. We would also
suggest leaving a small bed of ash in the re at all mes. This helps the wood burn more eciently and also acts a cushion between the log
and the brick itself. If a brick is split it will not need replacing and this could potenally happen at any point. We only suggest changing
bricks when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s body.
BROKEN / CRAZED GLASS
The glass used in all res is fully approved heat resistant ceramic glass. This glass will not break through heat but can easily break if struck
with a log or similarly hard object. This is why the glass is not covered by any manufacturer of stoves. Common causes for glass breakages
are customers closing the door when a log is sll scking out. Glass will not always break straight away and can be chipped or weakened. It
will then oen break at a dierent me with seemingly no contact. When replacing glass, ensure you only pinch up the glass clips. If they are
over-ghtened it could cause the glass to break.
Cloudy, 'milky' or crazed glass is caused by unburned acidic condensates etching the ceramic glass and unfortunately this cannot be easily
removed. It is denitely not faulty glass but instead does have more to do with the quality of the fuel that you burn and the way that you

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operate your stove (long slumbering). This is less common on wood-only models as it is oen caused by the high sulphur content in some
coals. If your glass is crazed, it does not need changing and is safe to use.
An example of crazed stove glass.
Rusty Stove
All stoves on the market are either made from mild steel or cast iron. The mild steel models like this are shot blasted and then painted with
high temperature black paint. This will protect the stove but if the stove remains damp or wet for a long me the oxidizaon process (
surface rusng ) will begin.
Over me, if your stove begins to develop rust it will either be caused by:
•The stove being kept in a damp environment – For example if the stove was le in a damp place for a long me prior to ng.
Or, the stove is in a damp room and not lit too oen.
•The chimney is leaking water onto the stove.
•The stove is being cleaned with a wet cloth and not dried quickly.
Luckily, the resoluon for this is not too hard. In most cases the stove will just need a wipe down with a dry cloth and touching up with
some Calre Fla black paint. This will bring the paint back to a nice nish and will not reappear, assuming the cause of the stove geng
damp / wet has been reced. Please see the below aached picture as an example for a stove that is beginning to rust.

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