ESCALADE MizeraK P1225LGRL 527.25155 User manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
CHAMPION 8 FT. DROP POCKET POOL TABLE
MODEL NO. P]225LGRL 527.25155
MODEL NO. P]227LGRLA 527.25165
1. READ THIS MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING ASSEMBLY.
Read each step completely before beginning each step.
2. SOME SMALLER PARTSMAY BE SHIPPED INSIDE LARGER PARTS.CHECK INSIDE ALL PARTS
AND CARTONS BEFORE ASSEMBLING OR ORDERING PARTS.
3. USE THE HARDWARE IDENTIFIER TO IDENTIFY AND SORT ALL FASTENERS.CHECK ALL CARTONS
FOR KITS. ALL HARDWARE IS NOT LOCATED IN ONE KIT.
THISTABLEISCONTAINED IN THREESEPARATECONTAINERS:
PLEASE DO NOT RETURN PRODUCT TO THE STORE!
Contact Escalade® Sports customer service department at:
Phone: [phone] Toll Free !
Fax: [phone] Toll Free !
E-mail: [email protected]
Mailing Address (Correspondence Only):
Escalade® Sports, PO Box 889, Evansville, IN 47706
Please visit our World Wide Web site at:
www.escaladesports.com
On-Line Trouble Shooting Frequently Asked Questions
Technical Assistance On-Line Parts Requests
Additional Escalade® Sports Product Information
ESCAI.ADE
S P 0 R T S
Escdade® Spots products may be manufactured and/or licensed underthe following patents.
D446275
Additional patents may be pending. One or more of the listed patents and/or pending patents may cover specific product.
2L-6860-00
®
@2004 Escalade Sports

CAUTION
THE SPRAY ADHESIVE USED FOR APPLYING PLAYFIELD CLOTH IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND UNDER
PRESSURE! CAREFULLY READ CAUTIONS ON SPRAY ADHESIVE CONTAINER! KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF
CHILDREN! DO NOT USE OR STORE NEAR HEAT SOURCE !FLAMES !SPARKS OR WHEN SMOKING! WORK
AREA MUST BE WELL VENTILATED. OPEN DOORS AND WINDOWS WHEN USING SPRAY ADHESIVE.
t.IMPORTANT t.
THE DRAWINGS IN THIS
MANUAL MAY BE
EXAGGERATED OR MOl-
TO SHOW DETAILS.
•Hammer (Claw Type)
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Drill
• 1/8" Drill Bit
• Putty Knife
Tools Needed: (Not Included)
• Tape Measure
• Sandpaper (80 grit)
• Sanding Block
• Awl or 8d Nail
• Scissors or Sharp Knife
• Hammer (Small Ball Peen Type)
• Carpenters Levelor 36" Straight Edge
• 7/16" Open End Wrench
• 1/2" Open End Wrench
• Rachet with 3/8", 7/16",
and 1/2" sockets
NOTE: Rails are made with cushion rubber at a height that requires standard 2 1/4" diameter balls.
Your dealer has a complete line Billiard Accessories.
NOTE: This table adds weight to any floor. Be sure floor can withstand this kind of weight. If floor sags,
table will be impossible to level.

ASSEMBLE TWO LEG PEDESTALS AS FOLLOWS:
1. Begin by opening hardware kits and sod hardware. Remove the
mounting plate from one leveler #22 and attach it to bottom of
left leg # 19 usingtwo screws #27 and two dowel connectors #26.
Cover holes with adhesive hole covers #28. See Figure t. Screw
leveler #22 back into mounting plate.
2. Repeat for other left leg #19 and two right legs #20.
Use
holes
Covered holes
should face
inward. \
21
19&20
Pedestal
3. Attach leg panels #21 to left leg posts# t 9 and right leg posts#20
using screws #45. Starl by installing the top screws in leg panel
using the pre-drilled statler hole in post #19. Square edge of leg
panel up to edge of post #19 then, install the bottom two screws
#45. (SeeFigure 2) Do not tighten screws#45 until instructed to
do so.
4. Set up pedestals so that they face each other.

40
5O
15 WARNING
Holes marked by arrows
MUST be on the TOP
when attached to leg pedestals.
4O
5o
5. Attach beam # 15 by using four bolts #40, eight washers
#50, and four tocknuts #49 for each of the leg mounting
location. Place one washer between the bolts and beam and
one between leg posts and tocknuts. Tighten these bolts
securely. (See figure 4)
6. Attach other beam # 15 to the other side the same way. (See
figure 4)
Make sure the holes in the edge of the beams #15 are on
the top of the beams when attached.
15
7. Place the frame in its final location. Square
the base frame assembly by measuring
diagonally from the corner of one beam to
the opposite corner of the other beam. (See
Figure 5) Nudgethe frame until both diago-
nals are equal (within 1/16 inch).
8. Go back and tighten all loose screws, nuts
and bolts.

NOTE: Screwheads should be
flush with or below the
top of the slats #16 and #17.
15\
16
Detail A ,8H
36
Slot should
be straight
up and down
Hole for dowel
connector #36
is closer to the
top of beam.
9. Place long slats #16 (50 inches long) and short slats # 17 (36 inches long) across table from beam to beam as shown
in figure 6. Make sure to use the two shorter slats #17 on the ends of the beams and the two longer slats #16 in the center
as shown. Insert four dowel connectors #36 into the four holes in the side of each of the beams # 15, these holes should be
doser to the top of the beams #15. (SeeDetaiIA).AttachthesIats#16, and #17 to the wooden beams #15 by pIacing
screws # 18 through the slats and into the dowel connectors #36 that are in the beams # 15 and tighten, make sure not to
over tighten them. (See figure 4 and detail A))
HINT: When holes are lined up, the slot in the dowel connector should be vertical. After holes line up, insert screws # 18 into
slats and down into dowel connectors. It is recommended to start the screws by hand and not forcing them with power tools
until you are sure threads are engaged properly. Do not tighten completely yet.
10. Square up the long slats # 16 by measuring
diagonally, similar to the method used ear-
Ferto square up base frame. (See Figure 7)
After squaring up slats, tighten all the screws
holding slats #16 and #17tothe beams.
ii ii
./
" H
q

LEVELING BASE FRAME
11. Usinga carpenter's level, leveltable aswell aspossible. Itiseasier
to do it now rather than after the slate is on frame. Determine the
highest corner of the frame. Raiseother three corners to the level
of the highestcorner byshimming underneath legsusing playing
card stock or grey leg shim stock (#47) shipped with this table.
Cut this shim stock and place under legs (#20).
UNBOXING THE SLATE (Slate Tables Only)
ACAUTION
AFTER CRATE PARTSARE REMOVED, BEND NAILS
OR STAPLES OVER WITH A HAMMER AT ONCE!
USE CAUTION WHEN HANDLING CRATE PARTS!
12. It isnow time to uncrate the slate pieces. With a claw
hammer or crow bar, pry off crate top atthe notched
corner. (See figure 7) BE CAREFUL NOT TO
DAMAGE SLATE INSIDE! SLATE IS BRITTLE
AND CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR
PRIED AGAINST!
Remove the front rail of the crate. Slide the slate out
the front of the crate. (Figure 7)
UNBOXING THE SLATRON (Slatron tables only.)
13. Iris nowtimeto unboxthe sIatron pieces. BE CAREFUL
NOT TO DAMAGE SLATRON INSIDE! SLATRON
CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED IF HIT OR PRIED
AGAINST! (See Figure 8)
If the edges of your Slatron has"fuzz" on it, lightlysand
to remove with sandpaper provided.
IMPORTANT!
The sheets of slatron may not be completely flat when
removed from the shipping carton. This is normal. Once
they have been placed on the table frame and securely
fastened down, they will become straight and flat.

¢AUTION: Be sure that the side of the
play surface with the
_oles faces up.
16
17
DETERMINE THE TOP SIDE OF THE
PLAY SURFACE!
IMPORTANT: Be sure countersunk holes in all three 17.
table top sections #9 and # 10 face up: See Figure 10.
NOTE: Slatron tables have "match" Iine markings like
those shown above (letters A, B, C). Line up these lines 18.
when putting clown the statron sections.
14. Place center section #10 on the two tong slats #16.
Center this piece on slats as welt as you can. Center
section # 10 should overhang the ends of the slats by _/2"
inch. Use a tape measure to be sure. 19.
15. Put a pencil (or punch) into each countersunk hole in
center section # 10 and markslats below. Remove center
section # 10 and drill pilot holes in slats using a 1/8" drill
bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust and
wood chips. Any dirt and debris can cause table
top sections to be uneven.
16. Place center section #10 back on slats and secure itto
long slats # 16 with six screws #39. Dry soap on screw
threads will make this iob easier. CAUTION: When
driving screws through slatron sections, hold slatron
down tight against the slats so they dofft ride up on the
screws. NOTE: Besure there are no gaps between
center section #10 a nd slats. If gaps exist, tighten
screws more. However do not tighten screws so
much that center section begins to crush or crack.
Place end sections #9 onto slats. Be sure they are square,
in line and butted up tight against center slate # 10.
Mark slats with a pencil through countersunk holes in end
sections #9. Remove end sections and drill pilot holes with
a 1/8" drill bit. Clean tops of slats completely of dust
and wood chips. Any dirt and debris will prevent
end sections from aligning properly.
Place end sections #9 back on slats and secure using screws
#39 (five screws per end section). NOTE: Be sure there
are no gaps between end sections #9 and slats. Run
your finger across the two seams between center
section #10 and end sections #9 to check for any
uneven areas. Sections should be even.
You should not need shims to even up the table top sections
#9 and # 1O,so ifthe sections do not align, firsttry loosening
screws and brush out underneath to remove chips etc.. Then
check under table to make sure there are no gaps between
the table top sections and the slats. If gaps exist, tighten
screws more. However, do not tighten screws so much that
the sections begin to crush or crack. Top edges of seams
must be precisely level and even with one another. If you
need to use shims, read the shimming instructions on the
following page.

SHIMMING INSTRUCTIONS
General Rules
• Accomplish the leveling of slate with as few shims as
possible.
•Slate is brittle. Do not tap with a hammer or tiqhten
screws unreasonable tight. You will not be abqe to
compress the slate. You must shim up the slate to level.
Shims #38 are meant only to raise the low places at the
seams and ends. Very sho4 and low places should be
grouted. Do not assume the floor is level. Most leveling
can be accomplished by working with the frame.
• If power tools are used, be sure only enough torque is
used to do the job.
•Seams can best be checked by passinq your finger over
the seam joint and feeling if it is flusB.
• All screws must be tightened after shimming.
• No two sets of slate a re exactly alike. Some sets require
more, or less, shimming than others.
]=
a
Top of playing surface
must be flush at seams!
Place sh ms
near screws. I
20. STEP BY STEP SHIMMING PROCEDURE
A) Be sure table is set in its final location.
B) Table must be as level as possible before shimming. Large
differences in levelness must be corrected by raising or lowering
frame with shim stock.
DO NOT ASSUME FLOOR IS LEVEL!
C) Tighten clown all slate mounting screws.
D) Check with a carpenter's level to determine where slate is low on
ends, and use finger tips to locate uneven spots at the seams.
Loosen screws at these points and see if slate comes up to flush.
Ifso, detach individual shims #38 from the sheet shipped with this
table and place u nder these areas. Place shims next to screws.
(See Figure 11)
E) Lay a straight edge across seams to be sure slate pieces are flat in
relation to each other.
F) After top surfaceof slateisflat and level, all screwsmust
be snugged down in tight position. DO NOT OVER-
TIGHTEN SCREWS! SLATE IS BRITTLE! Check
these screws before beginning grouting.
21. GROUTING INSTRUCTIONS
A) Clean top of slate with a damp cloth. DO NOT USE TOO
MUCH WATER!
B) Prepare Plaster of Paris, furnished with this table. Add water
sparingly. Do not mix all the powder at first; save some in case
you need to thicken your initial mixture. To mix: Empty 1/3
to 1/2 of grout into container, slowlyadd drops ofwater while
stirring. Grout should be a thick paste when mixed that will not
drip off putty knife. Ifyou do get grout to thin, slowly add more
powder.
c) Using a putty knife, fill both seams and the four countersunk
holes in the center playfield area. (Only the four countersunk
holes in the center of the table needto befilled sincethe other
holeswill be covered bythe rails.) Do not usemore plasterthan
you need.
D)
E)
Letplaster dry. Readthe rest of this manual while you wait!
Using a medium grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand
the plastered areas smooth and flat. RECHECK THESE
AREAS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE FLAT. Re-plaster if
you still find low places at countersunk holes or seams.

WARNING:
Applying the cloth
First Glue ]
Application
22. Make sure slate/slatron is dry and free of dust.
NOTE: Before spraying adhesive, cut a podion of the shipping
cation to use as a shield to prevent cement overspray.
23. Place cloth over slate/slatron with equal overhang on all sides.
NOTE: Cloth may seem small but it will stretch a great
deal.
24. Fold cloth away from end to expose slate/slatron for your firstglue
application. Apply contact cement to top surface in a band 4
inches wide on this end. (Seefigure 12) Coat edge also. Spray
cement smoothly and evenly. Allow cementto become tacky, wait
at least one minute.
25. Fold cloth back overthe table. With firm even pressure,presscloth
onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth
down and over edges.
26. Fold cloth away from sideto expose slate/slatron for your second
glue application. (Seefigure 13). Apply cement to the side in the
same manner as your first glue application. Allow cement to
become tacky, wait at least one minute.
27. Fold cloth back overthe table. With firm even pressure,presscloth
onto the area that has been coated with cement. Smooth cloth
down and over edges.
28. Fold cloth away from other side to expose slate/slatron for your
third glue application. (Seefigure 14). Apply cement to this side
in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least
one minute.
29. Stretchthe cloth across the width and over the edge of the table.
STRETCH HARD ENOUGH TO TAKE OUT WRINKLES,
BUT NOT SO HARD THAT THE CLOTH SLIPS.
30. Fold cloth away from other end to expose slate/slatron for your
fourth glue application. (See figure 15) Apply cement to this end
in the same manner. Allow cement to become tacky, wait at least
one minute.
31. Make a final stretch along the length of and over the edge of the
table, stretch hard enough to work out all wrinkles. (Seefigure 15)
If cloth is not smooth, lift and re-apply. NOTE: Rubbing fingers
lightly across cloth should not make cloth move.
32. Locate center ofpocket opening. (See Detail Aand B)Using sharp
scissors,make a straight cut. Next, cut to pocket edge to form pie
shapes. (See detail B)Divide these pie shapes in half. Asyou do,
thepie shapes beginto relaxtoallow for placement. You may need
to make additional cuts.
33. Sprayadhesive on the underneath side of the slatearound pocket
face to adhere the cloth. Make sure not to get overspray of glue
on table. Allow cementto become tacky, wait at least one minute.
Stretchthe pie shapes down and under the pocket opening. Press
the cloth against the cement on the underside ofthe slate/slatron.
Besureentire pieshapeisfully attachedto underneath sideoftable.
Third Glue J
Application
Cut with scissors.
should cover
Detail A
Spray glue on
edge of slate too.
FIRST
STRETCH
Detail B

Slate
Look along the front edge of the
side rails to be sure they align.
Side rails must be in a straight
line with each other,
4 --_-lb-
IThis view is shown without side and corner caps installed to help I
|
identify the rails. Side caps must be installed before the rails are attached I
to slate. Corner caps will be installed after area is established,
2 3
\ \
4'---4
!!
3 2
34,
35,
36,
37,
Attach side caps #7 to one side rail (either #2 or #3) as
shown in figure 18. Usetwo nails #41 per side cap #7.
Hold nails with needle nose pliers and tap them into
plastic with a small hammer.
Attach siderails#2 and #3 to bothsidesofthe slate using
one screw#32 and two washers#43 at each mounting
hole. Rails have pre-drilled statler holes on their under-
neath side. (Seefigure 17)
Do not tighten screws tight yet. Follow the same
procedure to attach end rails #4. NOTE: to help drive
screws into rails, put a little dry soap on screwsthreads.
With all six rails loosely mounted in place, establish the
playfield area bymeasuring from the noseof thecushion
of any rail to the nose of the rail directly opposite.
Dimensions should be 44 inchesfrom side rail to side rail
and 88 inches from end rail to end rail. (Seefigure 17)
Measure each rail near pocket openings (on both ends).
Also look down the noseof the railsto assurethey are in
line. NOW TIGHTEN RAIL MOUNTING SCREWS
-#32. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS, CAUS-
ING THEM TO PULL THROUGH WASHER -#43.
Attach corner caps #6 to corner of table. (Seefigure 19)
Usetwo screws #25 per corner cap .
Side Rail
1#31
0
Side Rail
1#21
End Rail
1#41
6