Falcon F18 User manual

Owner’s Manual
Revision Date: 2013-02-06
Copyright 2012 – Falcon Marine LLC – 9008 Marlin St. – Cape Canaveral, FL 32920 USA – 321-799-4841

Falcon Marine LLC
The Falcon F18 is a performance boat built and designed for racing. A basic understanding and
knowledge of spinnaker rigged performance sail boats is required to properly set up this vessel and
operate it safely. The F18 is not recommended for beginner and novice crews. Contact the factory
or your closest Falcon representative if you have any questions regarding how this boat should be
assembled, set-up or operated. Improper use or set-up of this boat can result in damage, injury or
even death.
Falcon Marine LLC
Falcon F18
This manual covers the basic assembly of the
above listed models. Before starting assembly,
familiarize your self with the contents of the
containers and the steps in this manual. There
are variations between models and may be some
minor variations based on model year and
options, be sure to follow the appropriate
procedures where applicable.

Table of Contents
1.0 Contents
2.0 Hull Assembly
3.0 Trampoline Assembly
4.0 Line Feeds and Rings
5.0 Trap Bungee
6.0 Mast Rotation
7.0 Mast Assembly
7.1 Spreaders
7.2 Diamond Wires
7.3 Main Halyard
7.4 Spin Halyard
7.5 Standing Rigging
7.6 Bridal Assembly
8.0 Stepping the Mast
9.0 Rudders
9.1 Surf System
9.2 Rudder Alignment
10.0 Spin Pole
11.0 Jib Sheet System
11.1 Jib Rotation Limiter
11.2 Jib Sheet
12.0 Boom and Outhaul
13.0 Downhaul Assembly
14.0 Mast Rotation Quick Release connection
15.0 Mainsail
16.0 Raising the Mainsail
17.0 Lowering the Mainsail
18.0 Mainsheet
19.0 Downhaul
20.0 Outhaul
21.0 Jib
22.0 Spinnaker
22.1 Halyard Run
22.2 Tack Run
22.3 Tack Release
22.4 Attaching the Spin
23.0 Spin Sheet
24.0 Righting line
25.0 Sailing and Beaching
26.0 Righting After a Capsize
27.0 Trailering and Storage
28.0 Design Category
29.0 Maintenance
30.0 Warranty

1.0- Contents
Box contents as they are unpackaged
Some parts may vary slightly from what is pictured.
The exact contents may differ depending on model and options.
Hulls, Line and rigging kit, Spars, Foils, Castings and tramp. Sails and spin hoop not
shown.
For assembly you will need:
Pliers, Socket or box wrench (3/4”), Phillips head screw driver, Tape measure, level, and
Silicone sealant.

2.0– Hull Assembly
After unpacking the hulls, verifying the contents and verifying they did not receive any
damage in transport, find a flat level area to begin the assembly of your boat. Using
the foam end blocks set the hulls so they are parallel and approximately 84 1/2” apart
as measured from the centerline of each hull. The hulls of the F18 are canted outboard
3 degrees. Use a wedge on the base of the foam blocks to set the hulls so that they
are at this 3 degree canted position. To verify the placement of the hulls, use a bubble
level placed in the beam pocket of each hull. The pocket base will be level once the
hulls are adjusted to the proper degree of
cant. If you do not have the foam
shipping blocks, place the hulls on
carpet, foam blocks, or other smooth item
where they can be moved without
damaging the surface. You can use
towels or wedges to ensure that the hulls
are set parallel and at the same pitch
angle relative to each other.
With a tape measure first check the
width, then make sure that they are
positioned the same fore and aft, by
taking opposing diagonal measurements
from the same location on each hull. Note, that once the hulls are canted to the proper
3 degrees, the width measurement along the hull centerline will not be same along the
length due to the contour of the hull shape. It is important to try and start with the hulls
as close to the final position as possible. The beams have been prefit at the factory
and the beam sockets in the hulls have very little slop. If they are positioned correctly,
the beams will drop right in place, The forward beam pocket is much deeper and may
be snug. Note: on the rear beam, the tramp lacing buttons should be aligned to the aft
end. On the front beam the traveler track should be placed forward.
(Figure 2.A).
Once the hulls are set, remove the end
caps and the bolts from the cross bars and
set on the hulls. Dry fit the bolts to ensure
everything will fit smoothly. The hulls were
pre-assembled in the factory, so if they are
aligned properly, the bolts should slide
smoothly into the hulls. After you are
confident of the fit, lift the beams and place
Warning: Properly align the hulls before installing beams using the bolts or
forcing the beams to align the hulls may cause serious structural damage.
Warning

a bead of silicone around the bolt holes and another small amount around the
perimeter of the beam landings. This will seal the holes to help prevent minor leaking
of the boat. Now install the bolts and tighten to 18 to 20 ft/lbs with a torque wrench,
always making sure the hulls have not shifted. Note these bolts need to be kept tight.
They may need tightening after the boat has been sailed few times. They should settle
in after a few sails.
Figure 2B Figure 2C
3.0 – Trampoline Assembly
Fig 3A
After the cross bars are adequately
tightened, now it is time to string the
trampoline. Find the edge on the
tramp with 5 large scallops. Center
the middle scallop around the center
of the cross beam at the mast step
post. The tramp will wrap around the
front of the cross beam and the then
hook the loops on the tramp over each
of the corresponding buttons located
on the back face of the trampoline.
(Figure 3.A)
Now feed the 6’ long fiberglass rod
into the pocket located on the aft end
of the tramp, and center between the
hulls.

In the rigging box, locate a bundle
of lines labeled “Tramp Lacing”.
This bundle should contain:
1 piece 25 foot long
2 pieces 12 foot long
2 or 3 pieces 30 inches long
Begin by lacing the rear of the
trampoline first. With the 1, 25 foot
long piece, tie a loop and wrap
around one end of the tramp tie
rod. (It will be helpful later if you
leave 12-18” of extra line at the
starting end of your loop) Pull the
line snug and bring back under the
rear cross bar and wrap over the
first of the tramp lacing buttons
located on the aft side of the cross
bar. Bring the line forward and
wrap over the exposed end of the
fiberglass rod, and then back to
the first lacing button again. Pull
the line over the top of the first
button and string over the top of
the second. Once over the top of
the second, go back under the
cross bar and wrap around the
fiberglass rod at the first notch,
bringing it back to the second
button, over this button then to the
third. (Figure 3.B)
Continue across the entire tramp
finishing the opposite side in a
mirror of the start. This does not
need to be pulled tight yet at this
stage.
Second locate 1 of the 12 foot long lines and tie one end to the most forward loop
on the side of the trampoline. This line will then feed to the first tramp lacing button
on the top deck of the hull. Wrap the line around the button and then bring it back
through the first loop. From there move the line to the second loop and repeat
down the full number of buttons on the deck. Fig 3C
Fig 3C
Fig 3.B

Repeat this procedure on the opposite hull.
Note at this point the tramp will be loose. Make sure that the trampoline and tie bar
are centered between the hulls.
Now proceed to tighten the rear and then each side lacing taking care to keep the
trampoline and tie bar centered between the hulls. This will likely take several
iterations to get a new trampoline to pull tight. Take care as you are tightening to
keep both the tramp and the tie bar centered between the hulls.
After the tramp is sufficiently tightened use the tails of extra line to wrap around the
end of the trampoline bar to prevent the first and last loop from slipping off the ends.
Once the tramp is laced, remove the 1/8” x 30” lines and tie the foot straps to the
saddles provided on the rear cross bar. Fig 3D
4.0– Line Feeds and Rings
In the rigging box locate the bundle of 3mm bungee and rings labeled “Convenience kit”
Using 1 of the 2mm x 600 long lashing lines, tie the 50mm stainless steel ring to saddle
located on the center of the aft face of the forward cross beam.
It is important to maintain a tight trampoline on these
boats. New trampolines will stretch a fair amount and
it may be necessary to tighten your trampoline after
each of the first few sails after it has been strung

Locate 2 of the 30mm stainless rings and lash them similarly to the trampoline tie bar at
each of the outer most cut outs. Note: Place the lashing outboard of the trampoline tie
line, on each side, to prevent the ties from wearing on the trampoline.
Set aside the remainder of the kit to install in later steps.
Rear – same both sides of tramp Front – At beam center
5.0 – Trap Bungee
In the rigging box are 2 sets of
bungees labeled Trap bungee. The
longer ones are designated for the
forward cross beam, or the crew
bungee, String the forward bungee
through the front cross bar. Open the
beam end cap and tie 1 end of the
bungee to the screw post located just
forward of the bolt. Run the bungee
through the center of the beam to the
opposite side and feed through the
pivot cheek block fastened just aft of
the main bolt. Feed the line back
through the beam and exit through the
end cap in the 7mm bushing. Install a
20mm stopper ball and hog ring as
shown to finish. Perform this same
procedure on both sides of the beam.
Fig 4A Note that with the race kit the
forward bungee system may already
be routed in the beam.
The rear trap bungee will be fed
through the fairlead located on the hull
deck just forward of the dagger board
trunk, and led under the trampoline
forward and through the 50mm
stainless ring lashed to the center of
the forward cross bar. Feed the
bunge then aft to the opposite corner
and tie to aft outboard 30mm stainless
ring lashed to the trap tie bar. The
starting end of the bungee will be
finished with a 20mm stopper ball and
hog ring as shown. Perform the same
procedure to install the bungee on the
opposite side. (Figure 4.B)

Fig 4A Fig 4B
6.0 – Mast Rotation
Find the 5/32” (4mm)line labeled “Mast Rotation”. Feed this line through the cleat
located on the hull just aft of the dagger board trunk, and then under the tramp. Bring
the line back up through the tramp at the grommet located in the center of the tramp
just aft of the storage pocket. Run this line through the turning block provided and back
through the center grommet, under the tramp and back up through the cleat on the
opposite hull.
Note: the turning block will be attached to the line run through the mast rotation arm on
the mast after the mast is stepped to control rotation.