GearHooks GearRail User manual

Fitting a GearRail® to the wall Quick Guide
Tools needed : Power drill, tape measure, spirit level, 5mm wood bit
or 8mm masonry bit, hammer, 4mm Allen key
1. Work out where you want the rail carefully and check before you start drilling. Allow space on each side for whatever is on the
rails to overhang beyond the 1M width of the rail. Allow enough height so items are off the floor or above another GearRail or
furniture. See the specific fitting advice for bikes, golf bags, guitars, garden tools, skis and snowboards.
To mount the rail (1-4 above). Drill hole 1 first (8 x 70mm in masonry walls), hammer in the fixing (5 x 70mm in wood) and tighten
the hex bolt+washer so the rail does not move but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. See below. Check level. Drill the other two holes through
slot 1 and 20. You can loosen the centre bolt to rotate the rail. Hammer in the expanding fixings (in masonry walls) then re-align the
rail. Tighten the hex bolts+washer till the rail does not move and then tighten a further half turn only. Check rail is secure.
5. Push in the spring-nuts, rotate 90oclockwise to lock in place and mount the GearHooks. 6. Re-fit end caps and hang up your gear.
More detailed Guide
Work out where you want the rail carefully and check before you start drilling. Allow space on each side and below the
rail for whatever is on the GearHooks®. See the specific instructions for bikes, skis etc.
1. In Masonry - Mark the centre hole at the height and position you have worked
out (see above). Drill an 8mm diameter hole at least 70mm deep. Do not move
the drill sideways while drilling otherwise the hole will be too big. Clean out the
hole and hammer in the grey, expanding fixing. Make sure this is tight in the
hole. If not, drill a new hole. On uneven walls you may need to pack out the ends
of the rail to avoid bending it when tightening the bolts.
2. In a wooden/shed wall - If it’s not a solid wall (like a shed wall with uprights on the inside) it is best to fit a horizontal
batten to the uprights, at the right height, and fix the rail to this. A 2” x 2” (50mm) batten is ideal. If you don’t do this,
the rail may flex and twist between uprights when loaded. Mark the centre hole at the height and position you have
worked out. Drill a 5mm diameter hole at least 70mm deep. You don’t need the plug.
3. If fitting to a plasterboard wall - you must locate at least 2 uprights (behind the plasterboard). Drill 5mm diameter
holes at least 70mm deep into these at the height and position you have worked out. You don’t need the plug.
You can then add 2/3 additional ‘umbrella’ fixings (not supplied) for the other parts of the rail that are not already fixed.
4. Remove the end caps and screw in the centre bolt and washer until the rail is LOOSELY held in place. Make sure the
hex driver is fully inserted into the head of the bolt otherwise you risk stripping the head. If it gets too tight to turn,
remove the bolt and spray a little lubricant into the plastic fixing which should ease it.
5. Place a spirit level on top of the rail to ensure the rail is level. Rails can be fixed at an angle if required.
6. Mark 2 more holes through the middle of slot 1 and slot 20. Swing the rail out of the way and drill the two holes.
Clean out the holes and swing the rail back and fix with two more fixings/bolts/washers. You can mark the wall and drill
through the slots without having to move the rail if you wish.
7. Tighten all the bolts starting with the middle. As soon as the bolt head pulls the rail tight against the wall only tighten
a further half turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLT. Re-fit the end caps once the GearHooks are fitted.
2. Remove end caps.
Drill this hole first in
slot 10 or 11. Loosely
tighten the hex bolt.
4. Make sure the rail is
level and drill this hole,
through the slot.
3. Make sure the rail is
level and drill this hole,
through the slot.

Fitting GearHooks® to the rail Quick Guide
Tools needed : 5mm Allen key
1. Fit the slide nuts in place by pushing them into the rail (spring
towards the wall), in roughly the right position*, and turning them
clockwise, until vertical, so they lock in place.
2. Push the black clamp over the GearHook, insert the hex bolt and
tighten.
*It is recommended to fit the spring nut over the top of the rail
fixing hex bolt to hide the fixing and get the hook at the end of the
rail. This makes turning the slide nut a bit harder but it is recommended. Remove the end caps first to make it easier.
More detailed Guide
2. See the guide above. The slide nuts can be slid or moved left and right (unless
they are over a fixing). If the spring gets stuck in a slot, push inwards, rotate anti-
clockwise, remove and re-insert. Re-fit the end caps once the end slide nuts are
fitted.
3. Push the black clamp into the hooped end of each GearHook® about in the
middle of the hoop (if its a tight fit, push in at the open end and then slide the
clamp up into the middle). Insert the fixing bolt and tighten the assembly in place.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN AT THIS STAGE AS IT WILL MARK THE PAINT ON THE RAIL.
4. Try out hanging your gear. If adjustment is needed, remove the gear first. If you need to move the GearHooks® left or
right, loosen the centre bolt and slide the assembly sideways. If the spring gets stuck (or it’s over a fixing) you may need
to remove the hook and clamp, push in the slide nut and turn it anti-clockwise to get it out and then re-insert it.
5. Once you are happy that the hooks are in the right position you can tighten the bolts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE
BOLTS! They need to be tight enough to stop the hooks from moving or rotating. Tightening the hooks will permanently
mark the rail. This is not an issue as the rails are galvanised as well as painted so they won’t rust.
6. That’s it! You should be good to go. If you have any problems or you want to discuss anything please give us a call.
*** IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION ***
Safe use of the GearHooks® hooks and rails, and all quoted loads, rely on the quality of the wall and how well they have been
fitted. We cannot accept any responsibility for the quality of the wall to which the hooks or rails are fitted or the standard to
which they have been fitted.
If the fixing is loose, rotates or moves then the GearHooks® Hooks and Rails may not be securely fixed to the wall. This could
result in damage to property or people for which we cannot be held responsible. We recommend checking (and testing if
necessary) the GearHooks® Hooks and Rails when fitting, and every time you use, the product. You should check that the hook or
rail is tight to the wall, not rotating or moving and that the expanding fixing is not pulling out of the wall. We do not recommend
fixing hooks or rails directly to plasterboard, lightweight block walls, or any poor quality wall.
If you have any issues like this, we are here to help. We can supply extra fixing (usually free of charge), even heavier duty fixings
or just some good advice. Please feel free to contact us anytime. Thanks for Choosing GearHooks®.