GLG Maxiheat Prime 150 User manual

OWNERS MANUAL
Tested and approved to Australian Standards AS/NZS
2918:2018 and AS/NZS 4013/4012:2014.
Prior to installation check with your state and local
authorities regarding any specific regulations that may
apply.
Please keep these instructions for future reference.
Burn hardwood only.
GLG Australia proudly supports the activities of Landcare
Australia through its membership of the AHHA.
WOOD
HEATERS
for Maxiheat Prime 150


Whilst every care has been taken in formulating these instructions, no responsibility whatsoever will attach to
and/or claim lie against, the manufacturer and/or the distributor of the heater as a result of any failure to follow
the whole or any part of the instructions and/or as a result of incorrect information herein and/or any omission
here from.

Use only dry, well seasoned hardwood.
Do not use coal or briquettes.

Do not burn garbage in the firebox as garbage
can cause a dangerous soot build up and
increase the amount of smoke your heater
produces.
Do not burn chemically treated timber as the
poisonous gases given off could damage your
stove.
CAUTION: THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF
PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS FUEL
CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
Do not place any types of builders board eg
fibro, cement sheeting (or any other materials
not specified and tested by the manufacturer)
inside the firebox.
     


The exterior surfaces of the heater will become
hot during operation. For protection of
children, the elderly or infirm, provide a
firescreen to prevent contact with the
appliance in operation.
To protect against injury from burns, use
caution when operating the appliance. In
particular, when loading the firebox, provide
adequate protection for your hands.
     

CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE
MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES
I N A C C O R D A N C E W I T H T H E S E
INSTRUCTIONS.

CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT
BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
Do not throw logs into the firebox. Always
place logs carefully.
Do not overfire (allow firebox to glow red) as
this could damage your firebox.

The appliance or flue system should not be
modified in any way without the written
approval of the manufacturer.
       

Do not place clothing or other combustible
materials on top of the heater.


Do not store flammable liquids near the
heater.

Before you attach the legs, carefully lay the firebox
on its back. Place protective material on the floor
to prevent scratches.
With the heater on its back, position each leg
under the firebox and feed the short screws
through the outer holes on the legs and into the
threaded holes in the bottom of the firebox, as
shown below.
feed into
this hole
The heat shield has spacers on one side - this side
goes up against the underside of the heater.
Position the heat shield in place and feed the long
screws through the holes in the heat shield and
into the threaded holes in the bottom of the
firebox.
In case your heater
isn’t sitting level, the
legs have adjustable
feet.
Remove the top and
bottom cap around the
bolt on the leg and
adjust the bolt up or
down to suit.
The baffle has an angled lip - ensure the baffle is
placed back into the firebox with the angled lip
facing up, as shown in the diagram below.
When placing the baffle plate in the heater, you
may need to angle the baffle plate up on one side
to get it through the door.
You should then lift the baffle over one bracket,
push it up to the top of the firebox, and then lift it
over the other bracket.
Push the baffle plate all the way to the back of the
heater to ensure it is in the correct position.
front lip of
baffle facing up

Refer to the diagram below for the firebrick
placement for your heater. The rear and side
bricks are placed with their longest edge upright.
There will be gaps in between the firebricks. Allow
the ash to settle in between - there is no need to
remove the bricks when cleaning the firebox.
Brick Sizes
A - 200 x 119 B- 200 x 173 C- 119 x 68
Once the firebricks are in place, place the brick
retainer brackets over the back and side firebricks
and into the corners, as shown below.
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
A
B
BB
C
C
C

Before beginning the installation of your wood
heater, you should note the following precautions:



CAUTION: CRACKED AND BROKEN
COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS, MAY
RENDER THE INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
It is strongly recommended that a
certified/qualified installer perform the
installation.
You may need to get council approval prior to
installation.
You should also check with your insurer for any
requirements they may have.
The correct flue system is critical to the
performance of your wood heater. It must either
be tested with the heater or be a default flue kit.
The flue must be sealed where it enters the heater
at the flue spigot.
We recommend you use an appropriate Maxiheat
flue kit.
CAUTION: MIXING OF APPLIANCE OR FLUE-
SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT
SOURCES OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL
SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY
RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE
SUCH ACTION IS CONSIDERED, THE
MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN
THE FIRST INSTANCE.
Your flue must extend the required height above
your roof to promote sufficient draught. If the flue
is not high enough, the heater will not “draw”
properly causing smoke to spill back into the
room.
The following conditions should be observed:
The minimum height of the active flue must be
4.6 metres in length measured from the top of
the hearth to the flue termination point.
If the flue terminates within 3 metres from the
highest point of the roof, then the flue must be
a minimum of 0.6 metres above the highest
point.
If the flue terminates further than 3 metres from
the highest point of the roof, then the flue must
be a minimum of 1 metre above roof
penetration.
The flue must clear any ridge or obstruction
within a 3 metre radius by a minimum of 1
metre.
The installer must ensure that the heater and flue
are correctly and safely installed in accordance
with AS/NZS 2918.
There are other variables that can affect draught
(eg trees or tall buildings nearby). If you have the
correct flue height and still have problems, please
consult your dealer.

Select a location for your wood heater with great
care.
Do not place your heater in areas of high
traffic, near furniture or draperies.
Check that the intended location will not
interfere with ceiling joists, rafters, valleys and
ridges.
If your wood heater is to be installed on carpet,
timber or any other combustible material, you
must place a hearth (also known as a floor
protector) underneath the heater. Please observe
the following:
The hearth must consist of at least 16 mm thick
sheet of compressed fibre cement sheet with a
thermal conductivity not greater than 0.33
W/m°K.
It is not recommended that you make your own
hearth.
The hearth and heater assembly must be
placed on a firm and level surface.
It is necessary to ensure that the heater is
positioned on the hearth so that the requirements
in the diagrams below are observed.
The front of the hearth should extend past the front
of the firebox opening by 385 mm. The side of the
hearth should extend past the firebox opening by
minimum 200 mm on each side.
It is vital that the heater be installed the proper
distance from combustible surfaces like wood,
gyprock and curtains. These minimum distances,
which you need to observe for your particular
heater are stated below. The diagrams show both
parallel and corner installations.
Failure to maintain these minimum distances may
result in a fire for which your insurer may refuse to
cover.
Corner Installation
Minimum
Hearth Clearances
C
A
Parallel Installation
B
CBA
Maxiheat Decromesh Default flue kit with inner (MXRSISS) between active and decromesh
Maxiheat Standard flue kit (MXFKT3MB), includes double shield (1 inner + 1 outer) 475700350
200
830
All dimensions are in millimetres

Softwood (except kindling)
Wet or unseasoned wood
Treated or painted timber
Saltwater wood
Coal or charcoal
Garbage, plastic etc
Any solvents, kerosene, petrol or any
flammable liquid.
Quite simply, dry seasoned hardwood.
From when wood is first cut down, it takes up to 12
months of dry storage for the wood to season
properly. The seasoning process is underway
when cracks begin to appear at the ends of cut
timber.
Use of moist or unseasoned wood will result in
excessive smoke, longer startup times, a lazy
flame that requires more air to stay alight,
creosote build up in the flue and on the door
glass, and a much less powerful fire. The reason is
simple. Heat that would normally be going into
the room is wasted boiling water that is trapped
inside the wood. This poor performance costs you
money in wasted fuel and increased
maintenance.
It is difficult to determine if wood is dry just by
looking at it. If you can hear the wood sizzle and
hiss, or can see moisture bubbling from the wood
surface, then your wood is too wet. In practice, the
best thing you can do is to be sure of the source.
Buy your wood from reputable wood merchants.
Make sure you store the wood correctly.
We also recommend you purchase a wood
moisture meter from your Maxiheat dealer
( ) and check your wood for WOODTHERMO
moisture content. For best results, wood should
have moisture content of 20% or less.
It is important that wood be stored under cover.
Even wood that is years old will absorb large
quantities of moisture if exposed to the elements.
It is advisable that wood is stacked to allow some
air flow in and around the logs. This will help keep
the wood dry.
It is best to have on hand a good range of wood
sizes to help control the fire. The rule of thumb is:
the hotter the fire, the bigger the log you can put
in.
You need very small pieces of kindling to get
the fire started efficiently.
Small pieces up to about 50 mm thick are
good when the fire is still being established, or
when you want to revive a fire that has burnt
low.
Larger logs are excellent for long burns once
the fire is well established.

Before using your wood heater, study this entire section carefully. It will assist you in achieving maximum efficiency
and enjoyment.
Various parts of your heater have been coated
with high quality paints to protect them and to give
them an attractive finish. You will need to “break-
in” your heater to harden or cure these coatings.
While curing, be careful not to touch the painted
surfaces as the paint will be quite soft.
The basic rule is: cure slowly, over about three
burns, without a hot fire. During the curing
process it is normal for some smoke and smell to
be given off from the surface of the heater. Each
time, some windows should be opened to allow
the paint odours to escape. Using a fan also helps
disperse the odours. For this reason it is best done
during the day.
1. The first fire should be kindling only and should
last for about 20 minutes. Leave the door
slightly ajar to stop the door rope from sticking.
2. Once the heater has cooled down, repeat the
process.
3. The third fire should be a normal fire of at least
45 minutes.
By this time, your heater should be cured. In
colder conditions, it may take slightly longer. The
house should be ventilated until all odours are
gone.
You can control whether your heater burns on
high or low with the air control lever found on the
front of the heater. The high and low position is
marked on the heater.
For low burns - Use this setting for low burning, or
for extended burn times.
For medium burns - This is the optimal setting for
normal use.
For high burns - Use this setting for starting the fire
and for at least 30 minutes after loading and
reloading.
Wood burns most efficiently when placed in a very
hot fire. These procedures are designed to bring
your firebox to the right temperature as quickly as
possible.
Put the air control on high.
Place a large amount of kindling in a criss-cross
pattern over a firelighter. Make sure plenty of air
can get into the stack and around each piece of
kindling.
Add a few small pieces of wood on top.
Ignite the firelighter.
Continue to add small pieces of wood until a bed
of hot glowing coals is established.
Place two or three thoroughly dry split logs (about
80-100 mm diameter) on the well established fire.
Logs will burn better if they are placed with their
ends near the glass, ie front to back.
Leave the air control on high for about 30
minutes. After this time, the firebox should be hot
enough for normal operation, so you can turn
down to medium or low.
Adding fresh wood cools the fire down, so when
you need to replenish the fuel, turn the air control
to high for about 30 minutes to bring the firebox
temperatures back up to normal
Always leave the air control on high for at least 30
minutes after reloading.

Wood should be stacked front to back - with the
ends facing the door - and with space between
them for air to flow around.
The door should remain closed at all times except
when first establishing the fire and when loading.
There are many factors that can affect the way
your heater burns, including flue height, wood
type, shape, amount, the way it is stacked, wind
conditions and outside air temperatures to name
a few. You will find that before long you will get to
know how your heater works best for you.
Large unsplit logs are the best fuel to use.
Make sure you have a good strong bed of glowing
coals and the heater is hot before loading the
logs.
Place a load of wood on the strong base fire and
coals, shut the door and leave on high for about
30 minutes or until the logs are charred all over.
Turn down to low.
Adjust air control to high.
Rake the hot coals.
Place some kindling and small logs on the coals.
Once the fire is established, start putting on larger
logs.
When the ashes are level with the firebox opening,
it’s time for a clean out. This should only be done
when the firebox has completely cooled.
Removing hot ashes is hazardous.
Push chunks of charred wood to one side. These
will burn in the next fire, so it would be a shame to
waste them. Using a metal scoop, remove excess
ash and place in a metal container.
You should leave a small amount of ash in the
firebox to provide an insulating base for the next
fire. Rake them over so they form a flat bed.
When disposing of the ashes, keep them in a
metal or other non-combustible container with a
tight fitting lid. Move them outdoors immediately
to an area clear of combustible materials. Do not
place them in plastic receptacles.
The door handle on your heater may become hot
during operation, especially during high burns.
We recommend you wear gloves to open the door.

The firebox liners where fitted must be treated with
care. Avoid throwing logs into the firebox as this
may fracture the liners.
To clean painted surfaces, wipe over with a soft,
damp cloth. Do not use harsh solvents and
cleaning agents as these can damage the
coating. Buff dry with a soft, dry cloth.
If your heater is installed in a coastal environment,
where salt air will come in contact with the heater,
this cleaning process should be performed weekly
to avoid the salt causing deterioration of the paint
and subsequently rust.
Sometimes black deposits will build up on the
inside of the door glass. To remove this build up,
rub gently with a plastic scourer pad moistened
with water and detergent. Then use the damp and
dry cloths as before. Hot glass cleaner is also
available from your heater retailer.
At beginning of the season:
Inspect and clean the flue system. To do this,
remove the baffle plate and flue cowl, and
clean out with a flue brush.
Check the painted surfaces. If there is any
wear, for instance from cleaning or abrasion,
touch up paint is available from your dealer.
At end of season
Inspect the door glass for any cracks and
replace if necessary.
Inspect door rope and seals and replace if
necessary.
Inspect firebox for wear or excessive corrosion.
Inspect firebricks where fitted and replace if
broken.
Check that the air slide moves smoothly. If it is
sticky, lubricate it with high temperature grease
available from your local hardware store.
When the heater is continually burnt with lower
than normal fire temperatures, eg due to
unseasoned wood, higher than acceptable
amounts of smoke are produced which condense
on the inside of the flue. This builds up as a black,
tar-like deposit called creosote.
A thin layer of creosote inside the flue is normal
and will not cause a problem. Once there is a
layer more than 3mm thick, problems can occur.
1. If the layer is thick enough, it restricts the flue
and can cause insufficient draw and even
smoke spillage back into the house.
2. More seriously, creosote is combustible, and
can ignite. A flue fire is easy to detect, involving
a roaring sound, a vibration of the flue, and
sometimes flames and sparks shoot out of the
top of the flue.
To avoid creosote build up and the fires that may
result, burn seasoned wood with the air control set
to medium or high for most of the time.
To remove creosote when it does build up, remove
the baffle pieces and flue cowl, and use a flue
brush to clean the flue system. To remove the
baffle pieces, lift out the middle piece first and
then remove the two pieces on the sides.
In case of a flue fire, do not panic. Your flue system
has been constructed to withstand high
temperatures. Immediately close the air control
down to its lowest setting. Do not open the door.
Once the fire has extinguished, you should have
your flue system inspected by a qualified service
person.

Always burn good, dry hardwood. This will
yield the greatest amount of heat for the least
amount of fuel.
Never burn green or unseasoned wood, or
wood that is wet. This will waste energy, cause
excessive smoke and reduce the performance
of your wood heater.
Do not allow your wood to smoulder. Your fire
should always burn brightly and cleanly. Check
the flue occasionally to see if there is any
excessive smoke.
Ensure your home is adequately insulated. This
will reduce your energy requirements, and
lessen your fuel bills, or the need to gather fuel.
This in turn reduces pollution.
Do not overheat your home! If you feel hot
even when wearing light clothing, then you are
wasting energy.
Install ceiling fans in the main rooms. These
are an excellent investment in year round
comfort. Because hot air rises, ceiling fans
push this hot air back closer to ground level to
keep you warmer.
A portion of the sale of your heater is donated
directly to Landcare by the Australian Home
Heating Association.
Landcare is one of the most proactive community
based environmental groups in Australia today.
Almost 5000 Landcare groups have sprouted
across Australia and like the millions of trees
Landcare has planted, they're still growing. One
of three farmers is a member of Landcare.
These groups get involved in activities like tree
planting and revegetation, weed removal,
fencing, feral animal control, water quality
monitoring, nature surveys, riverbank repair, and
sustainable agricultural techniques.
Landcare groups are usually formed because
there is a problem. Locals notice changes in their
environment and decide to do something about it.
Landcare groups can grow out of neighbouring
farms, or neighbours in the city that share a local
park. Landcare groups are working on all
imaginable ecosystems in Australia, from dry and
dusty central Australia, to tropical rainforests of
Queensland and the mountains in Tasmania.
WOOD HEATING IS GOOD HEATING

Your Maxiheat dealer also sells a range of attractive,
good value accessories for your heater like mesh
guards, tool sets and wood baskets.
Also, you can ask about maintenance products,
firelighters, touch up paint, flue cleaning products
and more.
G.L.G. Australia Pty Ltd
Building A2, Campus Business Park
350-374 Parramatta Road
Homebush NSW 2140
HINS-255A
09122019