Vermont Castings The Aspen 1920 Mounting instructions
Homeowner’s
Installation
and Operating
Manual
For use in Europe
30003844 5/11 Rev. 7
3069
aspen cover
2/10/00
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Thank you for choosing a Vermont Castings Aspen to meet your heating needs. We’re condent you will nd the
Aspen to be an effective wood-burning heater incorporating modern, non-catalytic combustion technology with the
classic aesthetic appeal of its Vermont Castings lineage.
The Aspen achieves high-efciency through precisely calibrated delivery of primary and secondary air into a refrac-
tory-insulated rebox. Properly operated and maintained according to the guidelines in this manual, your Aspen will
provide safe, dependable, and economical heating for years to come.
The Aspen Model 190 has been tested to current standards. The test standards are UL-148 for the United States
and EN1340:001 + A:004 for Europe.
The Aspen Model 190 is listed for burning wood fuel only. Do not burn other fuels.
The Aspen Model 190 is approved for installation in manufactured (mobile) homes in the United States only using
the optional Mobile Home Kit #1898 in accordance with the instructions in that kit and any local codes.
We recommend that you hire a professional, solid-fuel stove technician to install your Aspen, or to advise you on the
installation should you attempt to install it yourself. Consult the authority having local jurisdiction (such as a munici-
pal building department, re department, re prevention bureau, etc.) before installation to determine the need for a
building permit. Also, consult your insurance agent to be sure your installation complies with specic requirements that
may vary locally.
In addition to directions on installation and operation, this manual includes directions on maintenance and assembly.
Please read this entire manual before you install or operate your new room heater.
Specications .................................................. 3
Installation Requirements ................................ 4
Assembly ........................................................11
Operation ....................................................... 13
Draft Management ......................................... 17
Maintenance .................................................. 0
Replacement Parts ........................................ 3
Warranty ....................................................... 7
3
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Nominal heat output ...............5.5 kW (18,800 BTU/hr)1
Minimum ue draught ......................1 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean ue gas temp ..............................55° C (490° F)
Efciency (Space heating) ...................................76.6%
Area heated ........................ Up to 56sq. m (600 sq. ft.)1
Fuel size/type .................................416 mm (16”) wood
Fuel mass gas ow ............................................. 5.4 g/s
CO emissions (@ 13% O) ............................ 500 ppm
Loading ..................................................................Front
Chimney connector..................... 15 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney ue size .......................15 mm (6”) minimum
Flue exit position........................ Reversible, top or rear
Primary air ... Manually set, thermostatically maintained
Ash handling system ..................... Removable ash pan
Glass panel.......................... High-temperature ceramic
Weight ................................................ 110 kg (40 lbs.)
Width (Left leg - Right leg) ....................... 406 mm (16”)
Depth (Front leg - Rear leg)..................... 584 mm (3”)
Height to top of top exit ue collar ........... 610 mm (4”)
Height to top of rear exit ue collar .......... 533 mm (1”)
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
maximum fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efciencies.
381 mm (15")
610 mm
(24")
Top Exit
Flue Collar
Height
406 mm (16")
570 mm
(2256O")
184 mm
(756M")
457 mm
(18")
584 mm (23")
C
L
152 mm
(6")
191 mm
(756O")
3844
Aspen Specs EU
8/06
565 mm (2256M")
Aspen 190 specications.
4
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Your stove must be connected either to a sound
masonry chimney that meets local codes, to a relined
masonry chimney that meets local codes, or to an
approved prefabricated metal chimney. Whichever of
those types you use, the chimney and chimney connec-
tor must be in good condition and kept clean.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is
installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, build-
ing inspector, or re department ofcial will be able to
make the inspection or direct you to someone who can.
An existing masonry chimney must be inspected to con-
rm that it has a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney.
The chimney also should be examined for cracks,
loose mortar, other signs of deterioration, and blockage.
Repair any defects before the chimney is used with
your stove.
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
be certain that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enough
from combustible material to meet all clearance
requirements.
• The oor protector is large enough and is constructed
properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local authorities.
Your local building ofcial is the nal authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
the stove indicates that the Aspen has been tested to
current standards. The test standard is EN1340:001
+ A:004 for Europe. Clearance and installation infor-
mation is also printed on the label. Local authorities
generally will accept the label as evidence that, when
the stove is installed according to the information on the
label and in this manual, the installation meets codes
and can be approved.
Codes, however, vary in different countries. Before
starting the installation, review your plans with the local
building authority. Your local dealer can provide any
additional information needed.
ST241
chimney types
12/13/99 djt
Standard Chimney Types
A prefabricated double-
wall insulated chimney
A tile-lined
masonry
chimney
ST41
• Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney
must be sealed with masonry to the thickness of
the chimney wall, and the chimney liner should be
repaired. Openings sealed with pie plates or wallpa-
per are a hazard and should be sealed with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney
re, ames and smoke may be forced out of these
unused thimbles.
• The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before
use.
• A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of local building code, or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Ma-
sonry chimneys must be lined, either with code-ap-
proved masonry or precast refractory tiles, stainless
steel pipe, or a code-approved, “poured-in-place”
liner. The chimney clean-out door must seal tightly to
ensure a good draft.
5
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 00 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-
tion causing excessive cooling of the ue gases.
This stove is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a nominal ue size of 03 x 03 mm (8” x
8”), and into a round ue size of 03 mm (8”) or 15 mm
(6”).
It may be vented into larger chimneys as well. However,
chimneys with liners larger than 03 x 305 mm (8” x 1”)
may experience rapid cooling of smoke and reduction
in draft, especially if they are located outside the home.
Such large chimneys may need to be insulated or have
the ue relined for proper stove performance.
Ask your dealer about components available for con-
necting the stove to a steel chimney liner.
A chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-
ney itself is a masonry or prefabricated structure that
encloses the ue. Chimney connectors are used only
to make the connection from the stove to the chimney.
They are for interior use only.
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting uepipes included in the following catego-
ries:
a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.443 or
1.4436 with ue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c) Mild steel uepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a ue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d) Cast iron uepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
(1998).
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
tted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-
densates and moisture within the ue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-
tible rope and re cement.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for
use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Single-wall con-
nectors should be made of 4 gauge or heavier steel,
and should be 15 mm (6”) in diameter. Do not use
galvanized chimney connector; it cannot withstand the
high temperatures that can be reached by smoke and
exhaust gases, and may release toxic fumes under high
heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a
combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the recommen-
dations in the section following on Wall Pass-throughs.
Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or
any similar concealed space. The whole chimney con-
nector should be exposed and accessible for inspection
and cleaning.
Install the single wall chimney connector not less than
457 mm (18”) from the ceiling. Keep it as short and
direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree
turns. If possible, use 45° elbows. Slope horizontal runs
of connectors upward 0 mm per meter (1/4” per foot)
going from the stove toward the chimney. The recom-
mended maximum length of a horizontal run is 914 mm
(36”), and the total length of chimney connector should
be no longer than .5 m (8’).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricat-
ed chimney downward to within .5 m (8”) of the stove.
Follow the instructions for assembling and installing
double-wall connectors provided by the manufacturer
of the double-wall chimney. To ease assembly and help
assure safety, use chimney components manufactured
by a single source.
• Beginning at the ue collar of the stove, assemble
the chimney con-
nector. Insert the
rst crimped end
into the stove’s ue
collar, and keep
each crimped end
pointing toward the
stove. Using the
holes in the ue
collar as guides,
drill 1/8” (3 mm)
holes in the bottom
of the rst section
Toward
stove
Chimney connector.
ST242
Chimney connector
12/13/99 djt
Flue gas
direction
6
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
of chimney connector and secure it to the ue collar
with three #10 x 1/” sheet metal screws.
• Secure each joint between sections of chimney
connector, including telescoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws. The predrilled holes in
the top of each section of chimney connector serve
as guides when you drill 3 mm (1/8”) holes in the
bottom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-
structions for various installations follow.
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible mate-
rial.
Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify assembly. Slip pipes
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special connector
sections.
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney
manufacturer exactly.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chim-
ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-
ers attach directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package. The bottom of the adapter is
secured to the chimney connector.
The adapter forms a union between the chimney and
chimney connector that ensures any soot or creosote
falling from the inner walls of the chimney will stay
inside the chimney connector.
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-
tions for Wall Pass-Through construction on Page 7.
The opening through the chimney wall to the ue - the
“breech” – must be lined with a ceramic or metal
thimble which is securely cemented in place.
A metal pipe section called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and the
thimbles, will allow the removal of the chimney con-
nector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves are available from your local dealer.
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until
it is ush with the inner ue wall. Be sure that it does
not extend into the ue passage where it could interfere
with the draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 5-51 mm (1-”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
In this installation, the chimney connector enters the
replace ue though a thimble located above the re-
place. The liner of the replace chimney should extend
at least to the point at which the chimney connector
enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines for install-
ing a chimney connector into a freestanding masonry
chimney, and pay special attention to these additional
points:
• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances
to combustible mantel and trim materials. If neces-
sary, use a combination of mantel, trim, and connec-
tor heat shields to provide the required clearances.
• Double-check connector clearance to the ceiling.
• The replace damper must be closed and sealed to
prevent room air from being drawn up the ue which
could reduce performance. However, it must be
possible to reopen the damper to inspect or clean
the chimney.
If your replace opening height is at least 546 mm
(1¹⁄₂"), you may install a stove through the opening
using a “positive connection” kit available from your
local dealer. These kits provide a secure connection
between the stove ue collar and the chimney ue.
Conrm that the stove location is within the required
clearance specications for the mantel and surrounding
replace trim. Refer to Page 11.
Floor protection requirements also apply to replace
installations.
ST243
thinble connection
12/13/99 djt
Chimney
Connector
Thimble Sleeve
The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
Flue
Keep sleeve
end ush with
ue tile
ST43
The Aspen may be connected to either a freestanding
masonry chimney or to a replace masonry chimney.
7
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
ST244
Plymouth
fplc over mantel
12/99
If the clearance between the chimney connector and
either the ceiling or the mantel is inadequate, a protective
heat shield is required.
Mantel
Chimney Connector
Heat Shield
ST44
ST245
fireplace
flex connector
12/99
Special adapter kits are available from your local
dealer to simplify replace installations.
406 mm
(16”)
Flex Connector
Fireplace
Adapter w/
Clean-out Tee
Min. 381 mm
(15”)
ST45
Whenever possible, design the installation so that the
connector does not pass through a combustible wall.
If you must include a wall pass-through in your instal-
lation, check with your building inspector before you
begin. Also check with the chimney connector manu-
facturer for any specic requirements.
Consult with your dealer regarding special connection
components available for use as wall pass-throughs.
Use only parts that have been tested and listed for use
as a wall pass-through.
Figure 7 shows one approved method of passing a
connector through a wall. All combustible material in the
wall is cut away to provide the required 457 mm (18”)
clearance around the connector. The resulting space
must remain empty. A ush-mounted sheet metal cover
may be used on one side only. If covers must be used
on both sides, each cover must be mounted on non-
combustible spacers at least 5 mm (1”) clear of the
wall. Your local dealer or your local building inspector
can provide details of other approved methods of pass-
ing a chimney connector through a combustible wall.
ST276
CSA approved wall
pass-through
12/99
CSA approved Wall Pass-through.
4 ga.Sheet
Steel Support
4 ga. Sheet
Steel Support
(one side only)
Min. 460 mm
(18”)
Chimney clearance to sheet steel
supports and combustibles 51 mm (”)
Min.
Chimney Flue
Chimney
Connector
Masonry Chimney
Min. 460 mm
(18”)
ST76
8
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
ST247
Rear exit floor dgrm
12/14/99 djt
Supporting timbers under replace hearths are
considered to be combustible.
Wood framing
requires protection
from radiant heat
ST47
This appliance must be installed on to hearth that
meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-
lations 000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage
Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the
hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the
guidelines included in section of approved document
‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-
lows:
The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-
cordance with the recommendations in document J,
and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or
a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a
recessed hearth a) above).
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least
300 mm
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
At least
150 mm
Hearth Surface
Free of Com-
bustible Material
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Appliance
Doors
Appliance
Doors
ST91
Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
Do not assume that your replace hearth is completely
noncombustible. Many replace hearths do not satisfy
the “completely noncombustible” requirement because
the brick or concrete in front of the replace opening
is supported by heavy wood framing. Because heat
is readily conducted by brick or concrete, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such replace
hearths can be a re hazard and are considered a com-
bustible oor.
For all replace installations, follow the oor protection
guidelines described above.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend less
than the required clearance from the front of the heater
when it is installed. In such cases, sufcient oor
protection as described
above must be added
in front of the hearth
to satisfy the minimum
oor protector require-
ment from the front of
the stove: 406 mm
(16”).
Hearth rugs do not sat-
isfy the requirements
for oor protection as
they are only re-retar-
dant, not re proof.
Fireplace installations
also have special
clearance require-
ments to the side walls,
side decorative trim
and replace mantel.
Refer to the informa-
tion on replace and mantel trim shields in this section.
9
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating, and nearby combustible
materials can overheat dangerously if they are too close
to the heat source. A safe installation requires that ad-
equate clearance be maintained between the hot stove
and its connector and nearby combustibles.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove or
chimney connector, and nearby walls, oors, the ceiling,
and any other xed combustible surface. The Deant
has specic clearance requirements that have been
established after careful research and testing. These
clearance requirements must be strictly observed.
In addition, keep furnishings and other combustible
materials away from the stove. In general, a distance
of 10 mm (48”) must be maintained between the
stove and moveable combustible items such as drying
clothes, furniture, newspapers, rewood, etc. Keep-
ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby
surfaces and objects will not overheat.
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are includ-
ed below. There are no specic minimum clearances
to solid noncombustible, surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook re openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 15 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.
The minimum thickness of solid noncombustible
materials is specied in section of Document ‘J’, in
relation to the clearance of the appliance from the sur-
face. As a general rule, the thickness of solid noncom-
bustible material forming the recess of a replace is a
minimum of 00 mm.
ST486a
Defiant EU
Clearance
Diagrams
10/06
A
B
ST486a
Minimum clearances.
10
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Single wall connecting uepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-
necting uepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 000
(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved by following the recommenda-
tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 11.
34
FLUEPIPECLEARANCES
D
at least
3 x D
at least
3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 1.5
x D
Air space of at least 1 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Fluepipe
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 3 x D Dat least
1.5 x D
ST911
Connecting uepipe clearances.
11
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
ST257
install ashlip
12/99
1/4-0 x ⁵/₈” hex head
screws with washers
Attach the Ashlip to the bottom plate.
ST57
. Locate the hex bolt (Fig. 14) located in the center
rear edge of the stove bottom plate. Loosen this bolt
just enough to engage the Adapter clevis tab under
the washer and then retighten.
You will need the following tools to assemble the Aspen:
• 9/16” open end wrench • safety glasses & gloves
• at head screwdriver • power drill w/ 3 mm (1/8”) bit
• stub handle phillips screwdriver
• 7/16” open end wrench (for Ashlip & Outside Air
Adapter)
1. Remove the shipping straps and plastic wrap.
. Inspect the stove and contents for shipping damage
or missing parts. Immediately notify your dealer of
any damage. Do not install this stove if any damage
is evident or any parts are missing.
• Stove Legs, 4
• Hex Head Leg bolts with washers, 4
• 1/4-0 x 5/8” hex head screws with washers,
• #10 x 1/” sheet metal screws, 3
• Owner’s Registration Card
• Touch-up Paint (Porcelain enamel stoves only)
Leg installation will be accomplished most easily with
the help of an assistant who can tilt the stove onto its
side while you attach the legs.
1. With your assistant holding the stove up on its side,
remove the slotted screws from the leg mounting
holes at each corner of the stove bottom.
. Install two legs, using the hex head bolts with wash-
ers from the parts bag. The shoulder of the legs
should seat within the locator bosses cast into the
stove bottom at each corner. (Fig. 1) Tighten the
bolts with the wrench.
3. With your assistant, lift the stove up onto its legs and
hold it in a tilted position to install the remaining two
legs with washers and hex bolts.
Use a 7/16” wrench to secure the Ashlip to the stove
bottom with two, 1/4-0 x 5/8” hex head screws and
washers found in the hardware bag inside the stove.
(Fig. 13)
The optional #1897 Outside Air Adapter provides a
collar to which a 76 mm (3”) diameter air duct may be
attached directly to the air inlet area at the back of the
stove. The adapter should be attached to the stove
before a bottom or rear heat shield is installed.
1. Remove the phillips head screw located just above
the primary air inlet at the back of the stove.
ST256
attach legs
12/15/99 djt
Carefully tilt the stove
on the pallet to install
rst one front and one
rear leg.
Then tilt the stove up on
those legs to install the
remaining two.
ST56
Install legs on one side of stove then the other.
ST258
install outside
adapter
12/15/99 djt
Attach the adapter to the bottom plate.
Loosen Hex Bolt
Adapter
ST58
1
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
The #1896 Rear Heat Shield reects radiant heat away
from combustible materials located behind the stove. Its
use enables you to install the stove at a reduced clear-
ance to combustible materials in accordance with the
specications in this manual.
1. Remove the three phillips head screws from the back
of the stove. The upper right screw also serves to
secure the thermostat cover to the stove. (Fig. 16)
. Thread the three 3 mm (1¹⁄₄") spacers provided with
the heat shield kit into the holes. Be sure to resecure
the thermostat cover using a spacer at that location.
If the Outside Air Adapter is used, secure its upper
ange to the hole above the primary air inlet using a
spacer instead of the screw. Hand tighten the spac-
ers.
3. Align the holes in the heat shield with the spacers
and secure the shield to the spacers using the three
philips head screws previously removed. Tighten
rmly with a screwdriver.
The #1985 Bottom Heat Shield must be used in any
installation on a oor that is not composed of unpainted
cement on earth.
1. Remove the 1/4-0x 3/8” phillips screw from the cen-
tral mounting boss in the stove bottom. (Fig. 17)
. Mount the bottom heat shield to the stove bottom
using the same phillips head screw previously re-
moved. The shield will butt against the cast bosses
in the bottom of the ashlip at the front of the stove.
If a rear exit chimney connection is required, you will
need to remove the ue collar from the stove top and
move it to the back of the stove. (Fig. 15)
1. Use a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws
and rear cover plate from the back of the stove.
. Remove the ue collar by removal of the two phillips
screws from the top of the stove.
3. Attach the cover plate to the stove top. Be sure to
keep the gasket in place.
4. Secure the ue collar to the back of the stove.
5. Insert the crimped end of the rst section of chimney
connector into the ue collar. Using the holes in the
collar as guides, drill 1/8” (3mm) holes through the
connector pipe. Use the three #10 x 1/” sheet metal
screws provided to secure the chimney connection to
the ue collar.
3. If you are not installing a Rear Heat Shield, use the
phillips head screw to secure the upper ange of
the Adapter to the stove at the hole from which the
screw was removed in Step 1. (Fig. 14) Otherwise, a
heat shield spacer will be used here. (See “Install the
Rear Heat Shield”, below.)
ST261
install bottom heat shield
12/99
Install the bottom heat shield.
ST61
ST260
install rear
heat shield
12/99
Install the rear heat shield.
Spacers
Spacer
ST60
Reversing the ue collar.
ST258
flue collar reversal
12/99
ST59
13
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
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Combustion control is achieved in the Aspen through
two separate air delivery systems.
The , located at the left rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming pri-
mary air for starting, maintaining, and reviving the re.
More air entering the stove makes the re burn hotter
and faster, while less air prolongs the burn at a lower
heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the
straight up (1 o’clock) position. For a re that will last
longer with less heat, move the lever to the right. You
can set the lever anywhere in between the left and right
extremes.
The Aspen features an automatic thermostat to ensure
an even heat output at any manual setting you select.
As the fuel burns, the thermostat reacts to the heat radi-
ating from the stove surface and, consequently, adjusts
the air shutter attached to it. As the re intensity (and
heat output) builds, the thermostat slowly closes the air
shutter, thereby restricting incoming combustion air. As
the re intensity then wanes (and heat output lessens),
the thermostat responds and gradually opens the air
shutter which allows more combustion air to again
enliven the re. This ebb and ow action functions
continuously to prolong the burn cycle until the fuelbed
is exhausted.
Another separate supply of oxygen is delivered to the
upper area of the rebox to support combustion of
gases released from the main fuel bed. This
enters the stove through two, unrestricted inlets
and is heated while passing through separate channels
before being delivered through three stainless steel
multi-ported tubes located at the top of the rebox.
You will enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be no longer than 16” (406 mm) in length, how-
ever, you will nd that shorter wood lengths ease refuel-
ing and promote the most efcient combustion.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-
dried outside under cover for at least one year.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com-
monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, r, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
Keep wood a safe distance from the heater and keep
it out of the areas around the heater used for refueling
and ash removal.
No single air control setting will be appropriate for every
situation. Settings will differ depending on the quality of
the fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you
wish the re to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Aspen, and could even damage it. On the other
hand, too little draft can cause backpufng into the
room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-
lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inad-
equate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
glass.
14
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
In newer homes that are well-insulated and weather-
tight, poor draft may result from insufcient air in the
house. In such cases, a slightly opened window or
door, near the stove on the windward side of the house
will provide the fresh air needed.
A more effective option for delivering ample combustion
air to the stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to
the stove. In fact, in some areas, provisions for outside
combustion air are required in all new construction. The
optional Aspen Outside Air Adapter #1897 is available
from your dealer.
When you rst begin using the stove, pay attention
to the air control settings. You will quickly nd that a
specic setting will give you a xed amount of heat. It
may take some time to determine the amount of heat
and the length of burn you should expect from various
settings.
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
(Fig. 18)
High From 1:00
Medium From 1:00
Low From :00
Before you start using the stove, please read the Ap-
pendix on Draft Management starting on Page 9 to
learn how the characteristics of your installation will
affect the stove’s performance. You and the stove are
parts of a system, and other parts of the system have a
strong effect on operation; you may need to vary your
ring technique to get the performance you want.
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you rst begin using your Aspen,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in res follow-
ing .
High
ST262
air inlet settings
12/15/99 djt
Medium
Low
ST6a
Air inlet shutter settings; Low - Medium - High.
Step 1. Open the primary air control fully.
Step . Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper
in the stove. Avoid using glossy or colored paper, as
these burn poorly. At the front of the rebox, place
on the paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split
to a nger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or
three larger sticks of split dry wood approximately
5-51 mm (1-”) in diameter.
ST263
starting a fire
12/99
Start a re with small, dry kindling.
ST63
15
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door.
Gradually build up the re by adding a few 80-10
mm (3-5”) diameter splits.
• During the break-in res, don’t let the stove get
hotter than 60° C (500° F) as measured on an op-
tional stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control
lever as necessary to control the re.
• Some odor from the stove’s hot metal, the paint,
and the cement is normal for the rst few res.
Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufciently to sus-
tain a re. To correct this situation, roll up a couple
pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the
kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them,
and close the door. This should heat the chimney
enough to initiate strong draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door
and light the rest of the fuel bed at the bottom. Do
not light the main bed of fuel until the chimney be-
gins drawing.
Step 4. using
Steps 1-3, continue to build the re gradually. Add
larger wood with a diameter of 75-10 mm (3-4”).
Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-
burning re until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 51 mm (”) deep. A good ember bed is neces-
sary for proper functioning and may take up to an
hour to establish.
Step 5. Adjust the thermostatic air control for the de-
sired heat output.
ST264
good fire
12/99
Gradually add larger pieces of wood until all the wood
is burning well.
ST64
Reload the Aspen while it is still hot and there are plen-
ty of glowing embers to re-kindle the re. Include some
smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to help
the stove return to its operating temperature quickly.
Follow this procedure when you reload your stove:
Door handles can be hot. A glove has been in-
cluded with your stove. We recommend using this glove
whenever operating door or damper controls.
Step 1. Open the thermostat lever.
Step . Open the door and check the ash level in the
ash pan. If necessary, dispose of the ashes and
replace the pan.
Step 3. Use a replace tool to break up the charcoal
and direct ash through the grate. Pull the charcoal
from the back to the front. This will encourage ef-
cient combustion as the fuel burns from front to rear.
Step 4. Load wood — smaller, split pieces rst. Close
the door. Ideal performance will be achieved by oper-
ating with the air control set in the maximum (HIGH)
positon for several minutes after refueling. Reset the
primary air control for the desired heat output after
the re is re-established.
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each re-
fueling. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the
stove by its handle. Remove the ash pan and properly
dispose of the ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level dur-
ing disposal.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Aspen; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Dispose of ashes into a metal container with a tight-t-
ting lid kept outdoors. Put the closed container of ash
on a noncombustible oor or on the ground, well away
from all combustible materials, pending nal disposal.
If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, keep it in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can use wood ash
as a garden fertilizer.
16
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
The use of smoke detectors throughout the home is
strongly advised, if not required by building codes or in-
surance regulations. It is a good idea to install a smoke
detector in the living areas and each bedroom.
You may not, however, wish to install a detector in the
immediate vicinity of the stove. Depending on the sensi-
tivity of the unit, the alarm can be set off while you are
tending the re or emptying the ashes. If you install a
detector in the same room, locate it as far away from
the stove as possible.
Primary Air
Outlet Plate
ST65
Primary air outlet - keep clear of ash and charcoal
accumulation.
ST265
ash pan
12/99
17
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes the
chimney, the operator, the fuel and the home. The other
parts of the system will affect how well the stove works.
When there is a good match between all the parts, the
stove works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top
of the chimney. The greater the temperature differ-
ence, the stronger the draft. As the hot exhaust gas
rises out of the chimney it generates suction that draws
air into the stove for combustion. A slow, lazy re with
the stove’s air inlets fully open indicates a weak draft.
A brisk re, supported only by air entering the stove
through the normal inlets, indicates a good draft. The
inlets are passive; they regulate how much air can enter
the stove, but they do not move air into it.
The efciency of a modern woodburning appliance,
(in which the amount of air available for combustion is
regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust
gases warm all the way outdoors. The characteristics
of your chimney - whether it is steel or masonry, interior
or exterior, matched or mismatched to the stove collar
- determine how quickly it will warm up and how well
it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary to
maintain strong draft and efcient combustion. Here fol-
lows a description of various ue system characteristics
and related effects on stove performance.
Although masonry is the traditional material used for
chimney construction, it can have distinct performance
disadvantages when used to vent a controlled-combus-
tion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’
- that is, it absorbs and holds heat for long periods of
time. The large mass, however, may take a long time to
become hot enough to sustain a strong draft. The larger
the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will take to
warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust gases
enough to diminish draft strength. This problem is com-
pounded if the chimney is located outside the home or if
the chimney ue has a cross-sectional size larger than
the stove outlet.
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a
layer of insulation around the inner ue. This insulation
keeps the smoke warm and protects the surrounding
structure from the high ue temperatures. Because the
insulation is less dense than masonry, the inner steel
liner warms up more quickly than a masonry chimney.
Although steel chimneys are not as attractive as their
masonry counterparts, they are very durable and gener-
ally outperform masonry.
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke
warm, it is best to locate it inside the house. This loca-
tion uses the house as insulation for the ue and allows
some radiant heat release from the ue into the home.
Since an interior chimney does not continuously lose its
heat to the outdoors, it takes less heat from the stove to
get it warm and keep it warm.
The ue size for a controlled-combustion appliance
should be based on the cross-sectional volume of
the stove ue outlet. In this case, more is denitely
not better. Hot gases lose heat through expansion; if
a stove with a 15 mm (6”) ue collar [181 sq cm (8
sq in. area)] is vented into a 54 x 54 mm (10” x 10”)
ue, the gases will expand to over three times their
original volume. As gases cool with expansion, draft
strength decreases. If an oversized ue is also outside
the house, the heat it absorbs will be conducted to the
outdoor air and the ue will remain relatively cool.
It is common for a masonry ue to be oversized for the
stove. Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm
up and the stove performance will likely be disappoint-
ing. The best solution to an oversize ue problem is
the installation of an insulated steel chimney liner of
the same diameter as the appliance ue outlet. The
liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and the result is a
stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to its
original volume, the air around the liner will require time
and heat energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install
a ue liner in any oversize or masonry ue.
18
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Every bend in the ue will act as a brake on the exhaust
as it ows from the rebox to the chimney cap. The
ideal pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the
stove through a completely straight chimney. Use this
layout if at all possible as it will promote optimum stove
performance and simplify maintenance.
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate
the elbow about midway between the stove top and
the chimney thimble. This conguration lets the smoke
speed up before it must turn, keeps some pipe in the
room for heat transfer, and allows long-term exibility
for installing a different appliance without relocating the
thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for
longer runs.
Your stove requires a dedicated ue. Do not connect
the stove to a ue used by any other appliance. Chim-
ney draft is a natural form of energy and follows the
path of least resistance. If the stove is vented to a ue
that also serves an open replace or another appliance,
the draft will also pull air in through those avenues. The
additional air ow will lower ue temperatures, reduce
draft strength and promote creosote development; over-
all stove performance will suffer. The effect is similar
to that of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose. In
some extreme instances, the other appliance can even
impose a negative draft and result in a dangerous draft
reversal.
Even the best stove installation will not perform well if
poor fuel is used. I available, always use hardwood that
has been air-dried (‘seasoned’) 1-18 months. Soft-
wood burns more rapidly than hardwood and has a high
resin content conducive to creosote production. De-
cayed wood of any type has little heat value and should
not be used.
All unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture con-
tent. Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate
moisture before the wood can burn. This signicantly
reduces not only the amount of energy available to
warm your home, but also the intensity of the re and
temperature of the exhaust gas. Incomplete combustion
and cool ue temperatures promote creosote formation
and weak draft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its ap-
pearance and weight or use a commercially available
moisture meter for an exact measurement. Unseasoned
wood will be a third heavier than dry wood. Also, look
for cracks (‘checking’) in the ends of the log that result
from contraction as the wood dries. The longer and
wider the cracks, the dryer the wood is. Purchase your
fuel from a reputable dealer.
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove op-
erations, weak draft or both. It is a tar that results when
unburned gases condense inside the ue system at
temperatures below 143° C (90° F). Creosote is vola-
tile and can generate chimney re. All of the installation
characteristics that adversely affect chimney draft also
promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you can
minimize creosote accumulation with an effective chim-
ney design and the use of operational techniques that
encourage good draft and complete combustion.
Backpufng is a condition that results when the draft is
too weak to pull ue gases out of the chimney system
as fast as the re is generating more. Volatile gases
build up within the rebox until reaching a density and
temperature at which they ignite. With this ignition, you
may hear a mufed popping sound and see a bit of
smoke forced out of the air inlets.
This condition is most likely to occur in the spring or fall
when moderate outdoor temperatures and low inten-
sity res combine to inhibit draft strength. If your stove
backpuffs, open the damper to let the smoke rise to the
ue more quickly. Also, open the air inlets to induce a
livelier re and speed airow through the stove. Avoid
large loads of rewood at one time. You should always
see lively, dancing ames in the rebox; a lazy, smoky
re is inefcient and will promote draft problems.
An easy way to determine whether your chimney draft
is strong enough is to close the stove damper, wait a
few minutes to let the airow stabilize, and then test
whether you can vary the strength of the re by swing-
ing the air control open and closed. Results here are
not always instant; you may need to wait a few minutes
for a change in the air control setting to have an ef-
fect on the re. If there is no change, the draft is not
yet strong enough to let you close the damper. You will
need to open it for awhile longer and manage the re
with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. Keep a re-
cord of your operational habits and relate them to their
effects on the stove’s function. You will be rewarded
with safe and efcient performance.
19
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Good draft also depends on a sufcient supply of air
to the stove. The chimney cannot pull more air than is
available. Sluggish draft can be caused by a house that
is tight enough to prevent the ready ow of air to the
stove, or by competition between the stove and other
appliances that vent indoor air to the outside; i.e., ex-
haust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers, bathroom,
etc. If the chimney draws well when all such equipment
is turned off (or sealed, in the case of the replaces
and/or other stoves), you simply need to be attentive
in timing the use of the other appliances. If you need
to crack a nearby window or door to enable the chim-
ney to pull well, you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Consult
your Vermont Castings’ dealer regarding an adapter to
attach to the stove to connect an air duct for outdoor
combustion air.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specic requirements for your
installation.
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art in-
cludes technique and since installations, homes and
fuel vary, the stove operator must also vary technique,
(mostly timing), to achieve satisfying results. Over
time, you will become familiar with the intricacies and
nuances of your particular installation and you will be
able to identify cause and effect in a variety of seasonal
circumstances.
0
Aspen®Woodburning Stove
30003844
Below you will nd important information on general
care, inspection and maintenance of your Vermont
Castings stove. Should it become necessary, use only
replacement parts recommended by your authorized
dealer.
Let the re in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
procedure.
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Aspen looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.
Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two
light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difcult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot res. However, the ash residue that accumu-
lates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
glass:
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made
especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive
cleaners.
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Replace glass only with MHSC part no. 3000036. The
glass panel rests on a cushion provided by three at
gaskets, and is held in place by two clips. (Fig. ) The
glass is coated on one side which is slightly colored.
Remove the door from the stove and place it on a
sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect the
porcelain enamel nish.
1. Remove the Door Manifold. (Two phillips head
screws).
. Remove the Retainer Clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip).
3. Inspect the Gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace it,
use only MHSC gaskets (two vertical- PN 30000383;
one horizontal– PN 30000384). Be sure the chan-
nel around the window opening is clean, and free of
dust.
Place the three at gaskets (two vertical, one hori-
zontal) into the panel inset as shown in Figure .
ST348
Aspen
door glass parts
2/00
Door Manifold
Glass Clip
Glass Panel
Horizontal Gasket
Vertical Gasket
ST348
Door glass installation.
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