GREAT PLANES Seawind EP User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 39.5 in [1005mm]
Wing Area: 234 in2[15.1dm2]
Weight: 24 – 26 oz [680 – 735g]
Wing Loading: 14.8 – 16 oz/ft2[45 – 49g/dm2]
Length: 33.5 in [845mm]
Radio: 4-channel, three servos
Electric Motor: 1.1 in [28mm] dia., 110W, 25A ESC
WARRANTY
GreatPlanes®ModelManufacturingCo.guaranteesthiskittobefreefromdefectsinbothmaterialandworkmanshipatthedateofpurchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.
Champaign, Illinois
[phone], Ext 5
airsuppor[email protected]
Entire Contents © Copyright 2007 GPMZ1169 for GPMA1169 V1.0

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION....................................................................2
AMA .......................................................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ......................................................2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .........................................3
Adhesives .........................................................................3
Hardware & Accessories ..................................................3
Building Supplies..............................................................3
Optional Supplies & Tools.................................................4
BUILDING NOTES.................................................................4
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS...................................4
METRIC/INCH RULER...........................................................4
KIT INSPECTION...................................................................5
KIT CONTENTS.....................................................................5
ASSEMBLY ...........................................................................6
Mount the Motor & Cowl...................................................6
Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer & Fin................................7
Install the Servos & Radio ................................................8
Hook up the Rudder & Elevator........................................9
Assemble the Wing.........................................................10
GETTHE MODEL READYTO FLY......................................11
Balance the Propeller & Mount the Spinner....................11
Mount the Wing...............................................................11
Apply the Decals.............................................................12
Set the Control Throws ...................................................12
Balance the Model (C.G.) ...............................................12
Balance the Model Laterally............................................13
PREFLIGHT.........................................................................13
IdentifyYour Model..........................................................13
Charge the Batteries.......................................................13
Range Check..................................................................14
ELECTRIC MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ...................14
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts).........................................14
CHECK LIST........................................................................15
FLYING.................................................................................15
Preflight...........................................................................15
Takeoff ............................................................................16
Flight...............................................................................16
Landing...........................................................................16
Taking Off From Grass....................................................16
OPTIONAL ESC & RECEIVER MOUNTING LOCATION..........17
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes EP Seawind
ARF. Testing and developing the Seawind was lots of fun.
Immediately we were surprised by how nimble and sporty
this model is. And although the Seawind is a float plane,
hand-launching and grass landings are always an option
when not flying from water.When you do get the opportunity
to fly from water, be certain to read the “FLYING” section
on page 15 of this manual–there are a few water takeoff
and landing techniques that will make your outing more
successful. The Seawind is happiest when the winds are
relatively calm (around 5 - 6 mph or less), but the Seawind
can also be flown in winds around 10 mph (though she does
get “bumped” around some).
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to this
modelvisit the Great Planes website at www.greatplanes.com.
Open the “R/C AIRPLANES” pull down tab across the top of the
page, then select “ARFs-ELECTRIC.” Scroll down the page and
click on “EP Seawind ARF.” If there is new technical information
or changes an “Important! TECH NOTICE” box will appear in
the upper left corner of the page.Click on theTech Notice box to
read the info.
AMA
WeurgeyoutojointheAMA(AcademyofModelAeronautics)
andalocalR/C club.TheAMAis thegoverningbodyofmodel
aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to flying at contests or on the club field.It even applies
to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage.Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.
PROTECTYOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS....FOLLOWTHESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Seawind should not be considered a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a
full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the
Seawind, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2.Youmustassemblethemodelaccordingtotheinstructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition.

3
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
pushrod connectors often and replace them if they show any
signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high-stress flying, such
as racing, or if a motor larger than the one recommended
will be used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high-stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Following is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Seawind.Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Adhesives
The list of accessories required to complete the Seawind is
rather straightforward–with the exception of adhesives which
deserve a quick discussion. Hardly any glue is used to build
the Seawind, but it must be the right kind.With the exception
of slow-drying glue such as epoxy or waterproof white glue
(which should be used for the horizontal stabilizer so there
will be time for alignment), the rest of the model could be
assembled with foam-safe CA.But it wouldn’t be economical
to purchase two different kinds of glue when so little of either
is used. So if you don’t have any glue at all, or if you already
have some waterproof white glue or epoxy, you could do all
the gluing with just that. But if you don’t want to wait for the
glue to dry on the rest of the parts you could also purchase
some foam-safe CA.Following are some suggestions for the
kinds of glue:
❏J&Z Products R/C-56 waterproof white glue (JOZR5007)
❏1 oz Great Planes Pro™Foam Safe CA+ Medium
Glue (GPMR6069)
❏4 oz. Great Planes Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6042)
❏CA accelerator (GPMR6035)
Hardware & Accessories
❏4-channel mini receiver (Futaba®R114F – FUTL0442
low band or FUTL0443 high band)
❏Matching Rx crystal (FUTL62** low band or FUTL63**
high band)
❏(3) Micro servos (Futaba S3114 – FUTM0414)
❏6" [150mm] Servo extension wire (for connecting aileron
servo to receiver – FUTM4506)
❏Great Planes RimFire™28-30-950kV Out-Runner
brushless motor (GPMG4560)
❏Great Planes Silver Series 25 Amp Brushless
ESC (GPMM1820)
Motor Battery (see “Average Maximum Flight Time”
chart on page 15):
❏Great Planes LiPo 11.1V 910mAh 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0605)
-or-
❏Great Planes LiPo 11.1V 1250mAh 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0609)
-or-
❏Great Planes LiPo 11.1V 1500mAh 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0613)
❏LiPo battery charger (Great Planes PolyCharge4™
DC-Only – GPMM3015)
❏One charge lead for each battery to be charged
simultaneously (GPMM3148)
❏12 Volt source for powering charger (Hobbico®12 Volt
Power Supply – HCAP0250)
Building Supplies
❏Great Planes Pro™Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏Common hobby tools (wire cutters, small Phillips
screwdrivers, hobby knife)
❏Great Planes Segmented Lead Weights (GPMQ4485)
❏RTV silicone cement or white glue
❏Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], #60 (.040") [1mm] to #52
(1/16") [1.6mm], #60 (.040") [1mm] to #58
(.042") [1.07mm]
❏1.5mm Hex wrench
Note: The small drills are for drilling holes for the servo
mounting screws. If small drill bits are not available or if you
prefer not to purchase them, the small screw holes could
be made with a #11 hobby blade, but care must be taken
because it can be easy to oversize holes made this way.

Optional Supplies &Tools
❏Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❏CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏CA debonder (GPMR6039)
BUILDING NOTES
The stabilizer and wing incidences and motor thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway.To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Seawind are available using the
order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows.
The fastest, most economical service can be provided by your
hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico®web site at
www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment is by credit card or
personal check only;no C.O.D.
IfadditionalassistanceisrequiredforanyreasoncontactProduct
Support by e-mail at pr[email protected],
or by telephone at [phone].
Replacement Parts List
GPMA2730 Wing
GPMA2731 Fuselage
GPMA2732 Tail Surface Set
GPMA2733 Wing Tips
GPMA2734 Canopy/Hatch
GPMA2735 Spinner Set (2)
GPMA2736 Cowl
GPMA2737 Decal Set
4
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")

KIT INSPECTION
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not
of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone], ext. 5
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
Kit Contents
1 Fuselage
2 Canopy/Hatch
3 Wing Tips (L&R)
4 Spinners (3)
5 Prop Adapter
6 Propeller
7 Elevator & Rudder ServoTray
8 Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator
9 Vertical Fin
10 Wing
5
KIT CONTENTS
KIT CONTENTS
3
6
8
7
9
10
1
2
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ASSEMBLY
Mount the Motor & Cowl
❏ 1.Fit together the assembly/transport stand.Note that the
arrows on the sides point toward the front cradle which is the
one that is shortest. Use foam-safe CA, epoxy or white glue
to glue it together.
❏ 2.Test fit the model in the stand.If necessary, use a hobby
knife to trim the short cradle where shown to fit the fuse.
❏ 3. Use a 1.5mm Allen wrench to loosen the set screw in
the collar on the front of the motor (not included) and remove
the collar.Also remove the mounting plate, but leave the prop
saver screws in place because they hold in the drive shaft.
❏ 4. Connect the wires on the motor to the wires in the fuse.
Mount the motor with the three 3mm x 6mm Phillips screws that
came with this kit and a drop of threadlocker on the threads.
❏ 5. Temporarily mount the prop adapter and the propeller
to the motor shaft. Use an 8mm wrench to tighten the prop
nut while holding the collet with a 10mm wrench to lock the
prop adapter onto the shaft.
❏ 6. Loosen the prop nut and remove the prop and washer.
The collet should remain locked to the motor shaft.If the collet
does not remain locked, use a small drop of CA on the collet
to hold it to the propeller shaft.Then lock it down again.
❏ 7. Insert a pin into the motor pod 1/2" [13mm] behind the
middle of the wood block for the top cowl mounting screw.
❏ 8. Insert two more pins into the engine pod 1/2" [13mm]
behind the middle of the other two cowl mounting blocks
around the bottom of the motor pod.
❏ 9. Fit the cowl to the pod. Mount the propeller with the
prop washer and prop nut.

77
❏ 10. Fit one of the spinners all the way onto the propeller
and collet assembly. Adjust the cowl so there will be an
approximately 1/16" [1.5mm] gap between the spinner and
the cowl.
❏ 11. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole trough the cowl and the
cowl mounting block 1/2" [13mm] ahead of the pin in the top
of the motor pod–this should put the screw hole right in the
middle of the cowl mounting block.Screw in one of the three
larger wood screws that came with this kit.
❏ 12. Drill the holes for the remaining two cowl mounting
screws and insert the screws.Remove the pins.
Later, after the model has been completely finished, the
spinner will be glued to the prop washer with a dab of
RTV silicone or white glue.
Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer & Fin
❏ 1. Temporarily mount the wing to the fuselage. With the
plane resting in its building cradle, measure the distance
from the bottom of both wing tips down to your workbench.
Adjust the plane in the cradle until both distances are equal.
❏ 2.Test fit the horizontal stabilizer (stab) into the fuselage.
Center it as best as you can by eye.Same as you measured
thedistancefromthewingsdowntotheworkbench,measure
the distance from both stab tips down to the workbench. If
the distances are not equal, place a small amount of weight
on the “high side” of the stab until you can get it level–use
coins or the stick-on lead weight you will be using to balance
the model later.This is how much weight will have to be used
when actually gluing the stab into the fuse.
Note: It’s best to glue the horizontal stabilizer into the
fuselage with slow-setting glue such as epoxy, waterproof
white glue or R/C-56 so that there will be time to accurately
position and center the stab before the glue dries.
❏ 3.Apply glue to the un painted area on the top and bottom
of the stab. Slide the stab into position and wipe off any
excess glue.Proceed immediately to the next step.
❏ 4.Taking accurate measurements, center the stab in the
fuselage from side-to-side.

❏ 5. Square the stab with the centerline of the fuselage by
taking accurate measurements from both tips to the seam
between the two fuselage halves on the top of the motor pod
behind the cowl. Rotate the stab as shown to equalize both
sides.Make sure the stab has remained centered laterally.
❏ 6. If any weight was required to level the stab with your
workbench,positiontheweightandrecheckthemeasurements.
Do not disturb the model until the glue has hardened.
❏ 7.Glue in the fin with the same glue used for the stab–do
not clog the receiver antenna tube that comes out of the
fuselage by the left side of the fin. View the fin from behind
the model to make sure it is vertical.
Install the Servos & Radio
❏ 1. Remove the elevator pushrod wire from the fuse.
Disconnect the rudder pushrod from the rudder control horn
and remove the rudder pushrod as well.
❏ 2. Use fine-grit sandpaper with household oil to clean
any deposits or oxidation from both wires.This will allow the
wires to move as freely as possible in the guide tubes.
❏ 3. Wipe the pushrod wires clean with a paper towel, and
then lightly but thoroughly coat them with household oil.This
will protect the wires from future rust or oxidation once you
start flying the model from water.
❏ 4.Reinstall the pushrods and connect them to the middle
hole in both control horns with the 90° connectors.
Note: Before mounting the receiver and ESC as shown
here, refer to the “Optional ESC & Receiver Mounting
Location”section on page 17.
Refer to this photo for the following four steps.
❏ 5.Test fit your elevator and rudder servos in the plywood
servo tray. Drill small holes in the servo tray for the small
wood screws supplied with this kit for mounting the servos.
Anydrill from a#60(.040")[1mm] up toa#52(1/16") [1.6mm]
can be used, but drills nearer the smaller end of the size
range will be best.
❏ 6.Temporarilymounttheservosinthetraywiththescrews.
IMPORTANT!: Remove the screws and servos, apply a few
drops of thin CA to each the screw hole, allow to harden,
and then remount the servos with the screws. Use care not
88

to over tighten the screws, stripping out the holes–especially
if a larger drill was used. If this happens, remove the screw
and build up the hole with more thin CA.
❏ 7. Install the nylon zip tie that came with this kit into the
slots in the servo tray for mounting the ESC later. Glue the
servo tray in the fuse.
❏ 8. Mount your ESC to the servo tray with a small patch of
the included Velcro hook-and-loop material and the nylon tie.
❏ 9. If you haven’t yet done so, remove the propeller from
the motor.
❏ 10. Connect the wires from the ESC to the motor wires.
❏ 11.Connect an aileron servo extension wire to the receiver
soyouwillbe ableto connecttheaileronservo when mounting
the wing. Guide the receiver antenna up through the antenna
tube. If it’s difficult to get the antenna up through the tube, a
few drops of household oil added to the antenna will help.
❏ 12. Connect the rudder and elevator servos and the ESC
to the receiver. Turn on the transmitter. With the propeller
removed, connect a charged motor battery to the ESC and
operate the controls to make sure the servos and ESC are
connected to the receiver correctly.
❏ 13. Use the included Velcro hook-and-loop material (or
optional double-sided foam mounting tape–not included) to
mount the receiver where desired. The location shown is
preferable because all the wires can easily reach and the
receiver will be raised off the cabin floor, making it less likely
to get wet if any water leaks in.
❏ 14. Mount the motor battery as far forward as possible in
the fuse with one strip of the included Velcro on the battery
and the opposing strip in the bottom of the fuse.
Hook Up the Rudder & Elevator
❏ 1. Even if you will be using a computer radio that has
programming to adjust the control throws, it is best to have
the pushrod setup mechanically correct so that you will be
able to achieve the high-rate control throws listed on page
11 when the ATVs (or endpoints) are set to 100%. And if
you don’t have a computer radio it is a requirement that the
pushrodsbeconnected to the correct holesintheservoarms
and control horns. Otherwise, you will not get the correct
control throw. To get the desirable pushrod setup use servo
arms with pushrod holes that are 13/32" [10mm] from the
center. If using Futaba S3114 servos the small servo arms
that come with the servos achieve this.
❏ 2.Withthetransmitteron,thetrimscenteredandthemotor
battery connected to the receiver, fit the servo arms on the
rudder and elevator servos so the arms will be 90-degrees
(or as close as 90-degrees as possible) to the servos.
❏ 3. If necessary, use a hobby knife to carefully enlarge the
hole in the elevator servo arm.Then connect a small, brass
9

10
screw-lock pushrod connector to the arm and secure it with
a small, black retainer. Thread one of the small machine-
thread screws that came with this kit into the connector.
Use this photo to hook up the elevator and rudder servos.
❏ 4. Slip the elevator pushrod into the connector on the
servo arm. Then mount the servo arm to the elevator servo
and secure it with the screw that came with the servo.
❏ 5. With the system “on,” center the elevator and tighten
the retaining screw on the screw-lock pushrod connector
with a drop of threadlocker.
❏ 6.Connect the rudder pushrod the same way–don’t forget
to use threadlocker on the retaining screw in the screw-lock
pushrod connector and don’t forget to install the screw that
holds on the servo arm.
❏ 7.Operate the controls on the transmittertomakesure the
elevator, rudder and motor respond in the correct direction.
(It will probably be necessary to reverse the throttle direction
in the transmitter.) Also make sure the servo arms don’t
interfere with the ESC or the mounting strap. If necessary,
cut off the unused servo arms or adjust the position of the
ESC and the strap.You may double-check and set the control
throws now, or wait until you get to the “Set the Control
Throws” section on page 12.
❏ 8.Cutofftheexcesspushrodwire,butleaveapproximately
1/4" [5mm to 6mm] protruding from the screw-lock pushrod
connectors in case small adjustments will ever be required
later on.
Assemble theWing
❏ 1. Use a brass tube sharpened on the end or a hobby knife
to cut a hole in the bottom of the wing where shown for the
aileron servo wire. Use one of the aileron pushrod wires with
the 90° bend on the end to pull the servo wire up through.
Refer to this photo while hooking up the ailerons.
❏ 2. The same as you mounted the rudder and elevator
servos in the fuse, mount the aileron servo in the wing–only
this time use a drill no larger than a #58 (.042") [1.07mm] for
the servo screw mounting holes. If you don’t have the right
drill you could use the tip of a #11 blade to make the holes
instead. If you do accidentally oversize the holes, they may
be filled with medium CA and redrilled.
❏ 3. Same as when hooking up the elevator and rudder
servos, and with the propeller off the motor, connect the
aileron servo to the extension coming from the receiver and
turn the system on. Make sure the aileron trim is centered
andplacetheservoarm on the servosoitwillbe 90-degrees.
Mount the two remaining screw-lock pushrod connectors to
the servo arm–only this time mount them 5/16" [8mm] from
the center of the arm to achieve the correct throw.

11
❏ 4. Connect the aileron pushrods to the torque rod horns on
the ailerons with the 90° connectors and to the screw-locks in
the servo arm.Center the ailerons and tighten down the screws
in the connectors with a drop of threadlocker on the threads.
Make sure you have the servo arm screw in the servo.
❏ 5.Cut off the extra pushrod wire, but leave approximately
1/4" [5mm to 6mm] protruding from the screw-lock
pushrod connectors.
❏ 6.Use the transmitter to operate the ailerons to make sure
they respond in the correct direction.You can set the control
throws now, or wait until you get to the “Set the Control
Throws” section on page 12.
❏ 7. Use thick or medium foam-safe CA, epoxy, R/C 56 or
waterproof white glue to glue on the wing tips. If necessary,
use pins to hold them in position while the glue is drying.
GETTHE MODEL READYTO FLY
Balance the Propeller & Mount the Spinner
❏ 1.For optimum performance and motor efficiency balance
the propeller using a Top Flite®Precision Magnetic Prop
Balancer (TOPQ5700) or other suitable balancer. Use a
hobby knife or sandpaper to sand the one side of the heavier
blade until you can get the prop to balance.
❏ 2. Mount the propeller with the included aluminum
propeller washer. Use a few dabs of RTV silicone, R/C 56 or
waterproof white glue to glue on the spinner.Using just a few
dabs of any of the soft glues recommended should allow the
spinner to be removed if ever necessary in the future. If the
spinner becomes damaged two spares are provided.
Mount theWing
❏ 1.Test fit the wing to the fuse. If necessary, trim the foam
block on top of the plywood wing bolt plate in the fuse so it
doesn’t interfere with the aileron pushrod wires when you
mount the wing.
❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuse. Use care to tighten the
Phillips wing mounting screw just enough to draw the wing
down to the fuse.

12
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut out the decals
close to the edges.
2.Refering to the photos on the box, place the decals on the
model where desired.
Set the ControlThrows
If you have not already done so, use a Great Planes
AccuThrow™or a ruler to accurately measure and set the
control throw of each control surface as indicated in the
chart that follows. If your radio does not have dual rates, we
recommend setting the throws at the high rate setting.
Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
rudder (at the bottom).
These are the recommended high and low rate control
surface throws.
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 5/8" [16mm] up 3/8" [10mm] up
5/8" [16mm] down 3/8" [10mm] down
RUDDER: 1-1/4" [32mm] right 1" [25mm] right
1-1/4" [32mm] left 1" [25mm] left
AILERONS: 7/16" [11mm] up 1/4" [6mm] up
7/16" [11mm] down 1/4" [6mm] down
IMPORTANT: The Seawind has been extensively flown
and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best.
Flying your model at these throws will provide you with
the greatest chance for successful first flights. If, after you
have become accustomed to the way the Seawind flies,
you would like to change the throws to suit your taste,
that is fine. However, too much control throw could make
the model difficult to control, so remember, “more is not
always better.”
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unflyable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the motor, propeller,
motor battery, ESC, and the complete radio system.
The Seawind comes with a unique balancing stand that
has the balance point built-in. All that needs to be done
is assemble the stand, place the model on the stand and
determine how much ballast will be required.
❏ 1. Glue together the balance stand as shown. Glue the
3mm carbon tubes to the top of the stand.

13
❏ 2. Place the model upside-down on the balance stand as
shown.Theleadingedgeofthewingsshouldcontactthevertical
“stop” on the stand, thus supporting the wing on the correct
C.G.location which is 1" [25mm] from the leading edge.
This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 3/8" [10mm] forward or 3/8" [10mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for takeoff and make it more
difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes
the model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to
become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the
recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” If possible,
you could mount the battery farther forward.Otherwise, lead
ballast will have to be added to the nose to get the model to
balance. If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and
the battery pack could be shifted aft and/or weight could
be added to the tail. It is likely, though, that your model will
need an ounce or so of nose weight.If this is the case, place
incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the bottom
of the fuse over the location where it will be mounted inside
until you can get the model to balance. Once you know how
much weight is required place the model on the assembly
stand,remove thecanopyandattach the weightinside.Great
Planes “stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485) is recommended and
should be placed inside the fuse as far forward as possible
while still leaving room for the battery.
❏ 4.IMPORTANT:Ifyoufounditnecessarytoaddanyweight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
Typically, a laterally balanced model will perform slightly better.
And while some modelers tend to overlook these last-minute
“fine tuning” procedures, we strongly urge you to laterally
balance your Seawind. Otherwise, the heavier wing may tend
to drag in the water causing the plane to “hook” as the model
is building speed for takeoff. If you don’t have easy access to
a body of water large enough to float your Seawind to do the
lateral balance now, you could wait until you get to the lake (or
pond) and do the lateral balance right before your first flight.
❏ 1. With the model ready to fly and the battery installed, set
the model in the water with the nose pointing into the wind.
❏ 2.It will probably float with one tip in the water and one tip up
out of the water.Tilt the wing so the “dry” tip is now in the water
and the “wet” tip is up. Do this several times, tipping the model
from side-to-side.
❏ 3. If one tip always comes back down, then the opposite tip
will need some weight.Place incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the “light” tip until neither tip is “favored” and the
wings canberocked toeitherside withoutone tipalways coming
back down.
❏ 4.Stick the weight to the bottom of the wing next to the“light”
tip. Recheck the balance.
Note: Depending on how the model handles in the water, the
final amount of weight may need to be adjusted.
PREFLIGHT
IdentifyYour Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Use a fine-
point felt-tip pen to write the information somewhere inside
the airplane such as on the bottom of the cockpit.
Charge the Batteries
Followthe battery charginginstructions thatcame withyourradio
control system to charge the transmitter batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter the night before you go flying,
and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio
system.This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.

Range Check
When you get to your flying site ground check the
operational range of the radio before the first flight of the
day.With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver
and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least
100 feet away from the model and still have control. Have
an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing.Repeat
this test with the motor running at various speeds with an
assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you
what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first.Look
for loose servo or battery connections, damaged wires or a
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash in another
model. One other possible source of radio “noise” that could
cause interference is the arrangement and relative location
of the receiver, receiver antenna and motor wires.If possible,
remount the receiver in a different location or reroute some
of the wires.Then try the range check again.
ELECTRIC MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
Use safety glasses when running the motor.
Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as it is turning.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
Always remove the LiPo battery from the plane before charging.
Always use a charger designed to charge LiPo batteries for
charging the LiPo flight battery.
Never leave the LiPo battery unattended while charging. If
the battery becomes hot, discontinue charging.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) Iwill notfly mymodel aircraftin sanctioned events, air shows,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator.I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1)I will have completeda successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
milesof anypre-existingflying site except inaccordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed (in the
complete AMA Safety Code).
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight;nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
14

CHECK LIST
Performthese basic checkstomakesurethemodel is ready
to fly.Where appropriate, refer to the instruction manual for
additional information required to complete the check.
❏ 1. Check the C.G.according to the measurements provided.
❏ 2. Confirmthatallcontrolsoperateinthecorrect direction
and the throws are set according to the manual.
❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted with the supplied adhesive-backed Velcro or
Velcro purchased separately.
❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna all the way out the
antenna tube in the fuse.
❏ 5. Balance the model laterally in the water as described.
❏ 6. Use thread-locking compound to secure all the screws
on the pushrod connectors.
❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 8. Reinforce the holes for the servo mounting screws
with thin CA.
❏ 9. Make sure all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws that came with them.
❏ 10.Balance the propeller.
❏ 11.Tighten the propeller nut and glue on the spinner.
❏ 12.Placeyourname,address,AMAnumberandtelephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 13.If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
❏ 14.Range check your radio when you get to the flying site.
FLYING
The Seawind is a great-flying model that flies smoothly and
predictably.TheSeawinddoesnot,however,possesstheself-
recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should
be flown only by R/C pilots who have some experience.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched "buzz," this may indicate control surface
flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or
stab)rapidlyvibratesupanddown(thuscausingthenoise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the flying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by
an impending crash. The best thing to do when flutter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify
which surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved)
by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or
signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the
problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter are;
Excessive hinge gap; oversized holes in servo arms or
control horns where the pushrods connect, Excessive free
play in worn servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;Flying an over-
powered model at excessive speeds.
Preflight
Monitorandlimityourflighttimeusingthetimerinyourtransmitter
or the timer on your wrist watch.When the batteries are getting
lowthe motorwill usuallyprovide abrief warning before theESC
cuts off motor power, so when you notice the plane flying slower
you should land.Often (but not always!), after the motor cuts off,
power can be briefly restored after holding the throttle stick all
the way down for a few seconds.
To avoid an unexpected dead-stick landing on your first flight,
set your alarm or timer 2 to 3 minutes less than the average
flight time shown in the “Average Maximum Flight Time”
chart below, for the battery you are using. When the alarm
sounds you can land; or if you are an experienced pilot you
may continue to fly, planning for a dead-stick landing to see
just how long the motor will run. Circle the plane upwind of
the landing area until the motor quits.Note the run time, and
then land and reprogram your timer.
Average Maximum FlightTime
ElectriFly Power Series 910mAh 11.1V LiPo 8 min
ElectriFly Power Series 1250mAh 11.1V LiPo 10 min
ElectriFly Power Series 1500mAh 11.1V LiPo 13 min
15

16
Always be conservative so the motor won’t quit unexpectedly
and you will have enough battery to land under power.
Takeoff
The Seawind is a joy to fly from water, but there are a few
techniques that should be used to insure success.The most
important thing is to fly your Seawind the first few times
when the winds are relatively calm–0 to 5 mph is preferred
(especiallyifflyingfromwater!).Later,onceyouhavebecome
more experienced with your Seawind, you will be able to fly
it on windier days.
If you’re a little nervous about flying from water, it may be a
good idea to make your first flights over dry land (see the
“Taking Off From Grass” section on the next page). This
will allow you to get the model trimmed for straight-and-level
flight and get a good feel for how it flies.
When you get to the pond the first thing you should do (if you
haven’t already performed the lateral balance) is to practice
taxiing the plane at different speeds. Note that holding full
“up” elevator will hold the water rudder down, thus providing
more control. Also note that if you ever need to make a
sharp “U” turn, the Seawind can just about turn around itself
when moving as slow as possible with the motor at an “idle”
rpm. But at higher speeds the ailerons may also be used to
assist in turning. If it is too windy the Seawind will usually
“weathervane” into the wind, making turns across the wind
difficult. In these conditions about all you can do is execute
turns at faster speeds (which will require more space), or
avoid windy conditions altogether.
Use these techniques to position the Seawind for takeoff and
to get it back to shore when you’re done.If the Seawind ever
getsintoasituationwhere oneof thewingsbecomespartially
submerged, immediately pull the throttle back to stop its
forward motion. Otherwise, the wing will dig deeper into the
water.This is a rare occurrence, but if it happens more than
once or twice during your taxiing tests this is probably an
indication that it is too windy to takeoff from water.
When conducting higher-speed taxi tests (up to 1/4 to 1/3
throttle), observe which, if any, wing tip drags in the water.
If, after small aileron corrections to level the wings, one wing
tip still has a tendency to “hook,” the opposite wing may need
some weight. Add weight to the “light” tip or remove some of
the weight you may have previously added to the “heavy” tip.
When ready for takeoff, the Seawind must be pointing
directly into the wind–and the stronger the wind, the
more important this will be. Once the model is pointing into
the wind, smoothly advance the throttle to full power while
simultaneously holding some“up”elevator.This will keep the
nose up, the water rudder submerged, stabilize the plane
and allow it to rise up out of the water without skipping.While
the model is building speed, if necessary, use the ailerons
to level the wings and use the rudder to make heading
corrections. Like all airplanes, the objective is for smooth
takeoffs–but when taking off from water you should also
avoid getting the model into a “skipping” mode. If the model
does get into a situation where it begins to skip off the water,
you must either abort the takeoff by pulling back the throttle
or apply full power and takeoff. Once airborne, the Seawind
shouldn’t snap or stall, so while you may want to relax the
elevator a little, you can still maintain an aggressive climb.
To summarize the takeoff procedure: point the model into the
wind, then smoothly advance the throttle using the rudder to
maintain heading. Hold some “up”elevator to keep the nose up
and get the model airborne once it has gained enough speed.
If it does get into a “skipping” mode, don’t try to smooth it out.
Instead apply full power to get the model off the water or throttle
back to abort the takeoff.
Flight
Once the model is airborne and has climbed to a comfortable
altitude, the first priority will be to adjust the trims to get it flying
straight-and-level. Continue to fly around, getting the model
properly trimmed while you get a good feel for how it flies.If the
model is flying too fast, simply remember to throttle back.While
still at altitude, cut the power to see how it handles in a gliding
situation to simulate a landing.Switch between the high and low
rates to see how the model reacts. Remember to monitor your
flight time so the motor doesn’t unexpectedly cut off.
Landing
Landings with the Seawind can be a thing of beauty. She is
“slippery” and tends to glide long, so set your approach a little
farther out than you might normally expect–if you end up short
you can always throttle up.If the winds are calm (5 mph or less)
you can throttle all the way back cutting power completely while
still on the down wind leg just before you make your cross-wind
turn. Maintain airspeed and establish a descent by keeping
the nose down. When the model has reached an altitude of
approximately10' [3meters], graduallyslowits speedbyleveling
the nose. The lower and slower it gets the more elevator you
should apply until it is just a few inches off the water.At this time
apply full or nearly full elevator to execute a landing flair as the
Seawind touches down.The most important thing about landing
on water–whether you are coming in a little “hot” or too slow–is
to get the model to flair, keeping the nose up out of the water.
Taking Off From Grass
Surprisingly, the Seawind can easily takeoff from grass (your
flying buddies will be tickled when they see you taking off
and landing a float plane in the grass!).In our testing, we’ve
found that shorter, dry grass provides the least resistance,
so if taking off from tall grass more space will be required.In
ideal conditions the Seawind took only about 50' [15 meters]

17
to get off the ground. Simply lay the model on the ground
with the nose pointing into the wind, apply full power, allow it
to gain flying speed and apply elevator to execute a takeoff.
If, for some reason, the conditions at your flying site aren’t
suitable for grass takeoffs, the Seawind may also be hand-
launched (though grass takeoffs are preferred). It’s best to
have an assistant launch the model for you, but experienced
pilots could also hand-launch the Seawind themselves.Hold
the model by the bottom of the fuselage under the wing
and operate the controls to make sure they are responding
correctly. Apply full power and launch the model directly into
the wind with the nose up at about a 30° angle. Be alert
because until the model builds up speed it will initially pitch
downward. Apply “up” elevator and operate the controls to
keep the wings level. When the model has built up enough
speed initiate a climb.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly
in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
OPTIONAL ESC & RECEIVER
MOUNTING LOCATION
The mounting locations for the ESC and receiver shown back
on page 8 are suitable if you are certain you will always be flying
in calm conditions when the water is smooth (or if you will not be
flying off water at all). But if you anticipate flying your Seawind
when thewatermaybe alittle“choppy,”precautionary measures
should be taken to protect the ESC and receiver from water that
may splash into the fuselage when the water gets rough. The
first thing you can do is simply relocate the ESC and receiver
where shown.You could also seal the openings in both ends of
the heat-shrink tubing on the ESC with RTV silicone and place
the receiver in a balloon with the opening sealed with a nylon
zip tie.If the ESC and/or receiver ever do get wet, remove them
from the model and dry them out as soon as possible.
OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE
FROM GREAT PLANES
ElectriFly™by Great Planes PBY Catalina EP Sport Scale ARF
Thrilling water takeoffs and landings are just a few hours away
withthePBY Catalina! It has the lookofthe1930s-eramilitary/
sea rescue plane, with high-quality construction features such
as a fiberglass fuselage and a factory-covered, built-up wood
wing and tail. Molded ABS wing tip floats and a removable
rudder combine for excellent handling on the water, with a
rubber plug in the fuselage providing easy water drainage
if needed. Twin brushless out-runner motors deliver a great
power-to-weight ratio for long flight times and the ability for
executing basic aerobatics. An easy-access hatch on top
allows for quick installation or removal of high-voltage, low-
weight LiPo flight packs. Included in the generous hardware
package are two props, prop adapters, machined aluminum
prop hubs and observation canopies. GPMA1154
Great Planes Seawind* .60-.91 Sport-Scale ARF
No other R/C seaplane looks or flies like the Seawind. This
sport-scale replica of the classic homebuilt amphibious
aircraft draws attention wherever it’s flown, whether at the
flying field or the local lake. Substitute optional retracts for
the included fixed landing gear and you’ll be able to fly from
land OR water with the same plane!
The fiberglass wingtips offer excellent stability during flight
and double as floats to support the Seawind on the water.
Without the need for bulky suspended floats, the model flies
faster than typical seaplanes.Assembly moves quickly, too.
With its low number of parts, the Seawind ARF requires only
15to 18 hours of buildingtime.Thefuselage and wingtipsare
gel-coated fiberglass. The built-up wing and tail section are
made of balsa and factory-covered in Top Flite®MonoKote®.
Thewing simplyplugsinto analuminumjoinerand issecured
with nylon bolts – no tools needed.
Theuniqueboom-mountedenginedesignnotonlyenhances
the model’s looks, but also reduces the likelihood of water
“spray” reaching the engine during takeoff and landing. As

18
your sleek Seawind ARF touches down gracefully onto the
water, it hits you: this is a seaplane like no other, in both
looks and performance. GPMA1360
* The Seawind name is used with permission of Seawind Inc.
ElectriFly by Great PlanesYAK 54 3D EP ARF
Winning performance is in theYAK’s genes – and they shine
again in this all-wood, easy-to-assemble park flyer 3D ARF.
Using today’s finest electric model engineering, it succeeds
at any 3D maneuver – performing demanding precision
aerobatics as well as larger models, but at smaller sites like
parksandballfields.Oversizeaileronsprovideimpressiveroll
rates and superior control at all flying speeds.With reduced
throws, it’s also a fun and easy sport flier.The prebuilt, laser-
cut balsa/ply structures assemble quickly, and hardware is
included for mounting either an out-runner motor, like the
ElectriFly RimFire 35-30-950, or an in-runner such as the
ElectriFly Ammo B24-33-4040. A hand-crafted, lightweight
fiberglass cowl is also included, painted to match the high-
visibility trim scheme. GPMA1542
Futaba S3114 HighTorque Micro Servo
Idealforelectricplanesandsmallelectrichelis,theaffordable,
analog S3114 delivers plenty of power and performance in a
compact package. FUTM0414
ElectriFly™by Great Planes Silver Series SS25 Brushless ESC
Silver Series ESCs are compatible with NiCd, NiMH, and
LiPo batteries, with automatic low-voltage cut-off for all.The
SS25 features fully proportional forward and smooth throttle
response with on/off brake. Connectors are installed and a
180-day warranty is included. GPMM1820
ElectriFly by Great Planes RimFire™28-30-950kV
Out-Runner Brushless Motor
Powered by rare-earth Neodymium magnets, RimFire out-
runnermotorsproduceexplosiveaccelerationinplanesranging
from park flyers to 1.60-size giants! Their high-torque design
eliminates the need for a gearbox, making them the simpler,
lighter and less expensive alternative to a brushed motor and
gearbox. Plus, their innovative housing optimizes cooling,
allowing RimFire motors to produce 50% more performance
power than out-runners of similar size.GPMG4560
• Highly efficient and virtually maintenance-free. Bearings
are double-shielded and permanently lubricated.
• Installed, gold-plated bullet connectors compatible with all
ElectriFly ESCs.
• Ideal for brushed-to-brushless upgrades and glow-to-
electric conversions!
• Motor mount and hardware included.
ElectriFly by Great Planes Power Series Balanced LiPo Packs
GPMP0605 11.1V 910mAh 20C Deans Ultra
GPMP0609 11.1V 1250mAh 20C Deans Ultra
GPMP0613 11.1V 1500mAh 20C Deans Ultra
• The best choice for all-out 3D flying and contest-winning
performance!

19
• Huge, 20C continuous discharge rate help packs stay
cooler during sustained, high-amp current loads.
• Assembled, shrink-wrapped and wired in series for
balancing, with a standard balancing connector and high-
efficiency Deans plug.
ElectriFly PolyCharge4
™
For convenience with multiple LiPo packs, there’s the DC
PolyCharge4. Each of its four independent outputs can
charge a one-to-four cell Lithium-Polymer pack. It’s ideal if
you don’t have the time for one-at-a-time charging – and
don’t want the expense and hassle of multiple chargers.
Each output can handle packs from 300 to 3000mAh.Set the
capacity, and PolyCharge4 will automatically set the charge
rate to get you started – and use light and sound cues to tell
you when your pack is done.GPMM3015
Hobbico 12V Power Supply
The 12V Power Supply transforms 110V AC current into
constant 13.8V, 11.5A DC power for peak chargers, motor
break-in and more.It includesfuse protection, 5Vtap, a lighted
on/off switch and one-year warranty protection. HCAP0250

BUILDING NOTES
Kit Purchased Date: ___________________________
Where Purchased: ____________________________
Date Construction Started: _____________________
Date Construction Finished: _______________________
Finished Weight: _______________________________
Date of First Flight: ______________________________
FLIGHT LOG