GREAT PLANES Ultra-Sport 1000 User manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to befreeof defects inboth material
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warrantydoes not cover any component parts damaged
byuse or modification. Innocase shall Great Planes' liabilityexceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
Inthat Great Planes has nocontrol over the finalassembly or material used forfinal assembly, no
liability shall beassumed nor accepted forany damage resulting fromthe use bythe user of the finaluser-
assembled product. Bythe act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.
Ifthe buyerisnotprepared to accept the liabilityassociated withthe useofthisproduct,heis
advised to immediately return this kit innew and unusedcondition to the place ofpurchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.
ITCONTAINSIMPORTANTINSTRUCTIONSAND
WARNINGSCONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USEOF THIS MODEL.
POBOX788URBANA ILLINOIS 618012173984970
Entire Contents © 1992,HobbicoInc.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION...............................3
Precautions ......................................3
Abbreviations....................................4
English/Metric Conversions.............4
Types of Wood..................................4
Decisions You Must Make ................5
Other Items Required .......................6
Supplies and ToolsNeeded..............6
DiePatterns......................................7
Get Ready to Build...........................8
TAILFEATHERS..............................8
Rudder..............................................8
Fin....................................................9
Elevators ........................................10
Stabilizer..........................................11
Temporarily InstallHinges...............11
WING ASSEMBLY.........................12
Spars..............................................12
Ribs..................................................13
Rib Doublers...................................13
LESheeting....................................14
LEand TE ......................................14
Build the Wing Panels ....................14
FinishInstalling Retracts ................20
Join Wing Panels............................21
Sand "Flats" on LEandTE.............22
Fiberglass Center Section ..............22
InstallWing Dowels........................23
InstallWing BoltPlate ....................24
FillLanding Gear Slots ...................24
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ...............25
Prepare FuseSides........................25
Prepare the Firewall .......................27
Prepare Stab Base.........................28
Prepare Formers ............................29
Assemble Lower Fuselage.............29
InstallServos, Guide Tubes ...........32
Mount the Wing to the Fuse...........33
FitFuelTank, Fuelproofing.............35
Install Chin Block............................35
Assemble Belly Fairing...................37
InstallTurtle Deck...........................38
Assemble Nose Section .................40
FINAL ASSEMBLY........................42
Sand Fuselage ...............................42
Install Wing Fillets..........................43
Shape FinFairings .........................44
Mount Stabilizer and Fin.................45
InstallServos, Horns & Pushrods...46
Control Surface Throws..................47
FINISHING.......................................48
Additional Fuelproofing...................48
Seal Off Cockpit..............................48
Prepare Canopy .............................48
Balance Airplane Laterally..............48
FinalSanding .................................48
Covering..........................................49
Glue the Hinges..............................49
InstallPilot......................................49
Glue Canopy inPlace.....................50
InstallLanding Gear.......................50
Wing Seating ..................................50
Re-install Engine & Radio ..............50
Balance Your Model .......................50
FinalHookups and Checks ............51
PRE-FLIGHT..................................51
Charge Batteries ............................51
Find a Safe Place to Fly .................51
Ground Check ................................51
Range Check..................................52
Engine Safety Precautions.............52
FLYING...........................................52
Takeoff............................................52
Flying................................................52
Landing.............................................53
APPENDIX.....................................53
FLIGHTTRIMMING........................53
AMA SAFETY CODE .....................56
IMAA SAFETY GUIDELINES.........56
NOTES.............................................57
2-VIEW DRAWING..........................59
2

WARNING! THIS ISNOTA TOY!
THIS ISNOTA BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
ThisR/C kit and the model you willbuild is not a toy!Itiscapable of serious bodily harm and property
damage ITISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to build this kit correctly,properly install all
R/C components and flyinggear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc)and to test the model and flyitonly with
experienced, competent help, using common sense and inaccordance with allsafetystandards as set down
inthe Academyof Model AeronauticsSafety Code Itissuggested thatyoujointheAMAto become properly
insured before you attempt to flythis model IFYOU AREJUST STARTING R/C MODELING CONSULT
YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN
EXPERIENCEDINSTRUCTORINYOURAREA
AcademyofModelAeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie,IN47302-9252
Tel [phone] Fax [phone]
IFTHINGSAREN'T RIGHTWITH YOUR KIT
Pleaseinspectallpartscarefully
before startingto build! Ifanypartsare
missing, broken or defective, or ifyou have
any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call usat [phone]and
we'll beglad to help.Ifyou are calling for
replacement parts, please look upthe part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped onthe endof the carton) and have
them readywhen calling.
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations' Thank you for purchasing
theGreatPlanesUltra-Sport1000!Jim
Feldmann'soriginaldesignUltra-Sport60 was
featuredas a constructionarticlein the August,
1989 issue of RC Modeler magazine, and hasbeen
hailed by many as "the best sportflyingairplane
ever'" The design startswiththe legendary "Kaos"
wingplatform,and featuresmodernstylingand
state-of-the-artconstruction techniques The result
isan ultra-stable, ultra-smooth flyingairplane that
does what you want itto,nomore and noless.
Now inits largest size, the Ultra-Sport 1000isbetter
than ever
The Ultra-Sport 1000iseasy to build, totally
predictable, smooth-flyingand has very docile stall
characteristics, making itthe ultimate sportairplane
forthemodelerwhowantstoflywitha higher
degree of precision Because itnaturally tracks
throughmaneuversbetterthanothersport
airplanes, you'llflybetterwhen you're flyingan
Ultra-Sport 1000
This isnota beginner's airplane! While
the Ultra-Sport 1000 iseasy to build and flies great,
we must discourage you fromselecting this kit as
yourfirstR/CairplaneIt is fast,highly
maneuverable,andlackstheself-recovery
characteristics of a good basic trainer such as the
Great Planes PTSeries airplanes On theother
hand, if you have already learned the basics of R/C
flying and you are able to safely handle an "aileron
trainer" airplane such as the Great Planes Trainer
Series or Big Stick Series airplanes,theUltra-
Sport 1000isan excellent choice
BecausetheUltra-Sport1000 hasa
wingspan over 80", itis considered "Giant Scale"
and can qualifyto flyinIMAA sanctionedevents.
However, if you plan to do so,you must be aware of
theIMAASafetyGuidelines,andtakethe
necessary precautions whilebuilding this airplane
to insure compliance withthoseguidelinesWe
have reprintedseveralimportantsectionsof the
guidelines inthe Appendix at the end of this book.
Read them now. Inaddition, itwould bea good
idea to talk inadvance with the designated safety
officers for the IMAA events you plan to attend, to
determine ifany modifications need to bemade to
qualify your Ultra-Sport 1000.
PRECAUTIONS
1.You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Donot alter or modify the
model as representedby the plans, as doing so
may result inan unsafe or unflyable model Ina
fewcasesthe plans and instructionsmay differ
3

slightly fromthe photos Inthoseinstances you
should assume the plans and writteninstructions
are correctAlso you may notice a slight difference
inlength between some of the longer parts and the
plans This isnormal and iscaused by the plans
expanding and shrinking with the changing moisture
content inthe air Donot modify the parts to fitthe
plan.
2You must take time to build straight, true and
strongIMPORTANT- glueshouldneverbe
substituted fora good joint Take a little extratime
to get a close fittingjointand glue itproperly Itwill
bestrongerneaterand much lighter than a bad
jointheldtogether with excess glue
3.You must use a proper R/C radio that isinfirst
class condition,the correctly-sizedengine and
correctcomponents(fueltank,wheels,etc)
throughout your building process
4You must properlyinstall all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground andinthe air
5You must test the operation of the model before
the firstand each successive flight to insure that all
equipment is operating, and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound Be
sure to check the nylon clevises and hornsoften,
and replace ifthey show signs of wear.
6Youmustflythemodelonlywiththe
competent helpof a highly experienced R/C pilot if
youarenotalreadyan experiencedand
knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time
Note-We, as the kitmanufacturer, can provide you
witha topqualitykitand greatinstructions,but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it,thereforewe
cannot inany way guarantee theperformanceof
your completed model, andnorepresentations are
expressedorimpliedas totheperformanceor
safety of your completed model
Remember:Takeyourtime
and follow directions to end up
with a well-built model that is
light,straight and true.
TYPES OF WOOD
BalsaBasswoodPlywood
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED INTHIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev= Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE= Leading Edge (front)
LG= Landing Gear
Lt= Left
Ply= Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
"=Inches
ENGLISH/METRIC CONVERSIONS
NOTE Alldimensions inthis book are given in
inches and fractionsof an inch Use the table
below to convert these dimensions to the metric
system, ifthat iswhat you are most familiar with
INCHES MILLIMETERS
1"= 25.4mm
7/8" = 22.2mm
3/4"= 19.0mm
5/8"= 15.9mm
1/2"= 12.7mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/4" = 6. 3mm
3/16"= 4.8mm
1/8" = 3. 2mm
3/32" = 2. 4mm
5/64" = 2. Omm
1/16" = 1. 6mm
1/32"= .08mm
4

DECISIONS YOU MUSTMAKE NOW
ENGINE,MOUNT, AND SPINNER SELECTION
The recommended enginesize rangeisasfollows:
90 - 1 50cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
1.20-1.60cubic inchdisplacement 4-cycle
The complete "ENGINE APPLICATION TABLE" isprinted onthe fuselage planA portion of that table is
reprinted here to helpinyour selection of engine, propeller, mount and spinner.
COMPONENTS RECOMMENDED FOR THE ULTRA SPORT 1000:
ENGINE PROP
OS 120SURPASS SP* 16x8
SUPERTIGRE 2500 16x10
OS 120SURPASS II15x8
OS108FSR15x8
OS 160TWIN 15x10
*Supercharged version
ENGINE MOUNT
J-TECJT-120SP(SV)**
J-TECJT-ST125(SV)**
J-TECJT-122(SV)**
J-TECJT-M108(SV)**
Mountinclw/ engine
SPINNER
2-3/4"
3"
2-3/4"
2-3/4"
3"
** "SV" denotes the rubber-cushioned version of this mount, which isrecommended.
The above components you select willdetermine howyou buildthe fuselage, soitisimportantthat
you have these components close at hand while building
MUFFLERSELECTION FORSUPERTIGRE 2500
Ifyou are using the Supertigre 2500 engine, you have two muffler choices One isthe standard
SuperTigre "S 3000" silencer that ismade forthis engine, and which isoutlined on the plans Ifyou prefer a
more conventional style muffler, you may choose the J-TEC "JT-3000S" mufflerwhich was custom made as
aresult of this project(itispictured inan Ultra-Sport 1000 on the cover of the April,1992 issue of R/C
Modelermagazine)Bothmufflers work well, butthey are very different styles (See the photos onpage 43)
LANDING GEAR CONFIGURATION
The Ultra-Sport 1000may bebuiltwith a
"taildragger"or"tricycle"landinggear
configuration, and a retractable main gear may be
installed if you want to really "clean up'this airplane
for ultra-smooth and precise aerobatics.
The Ultra-Sport 1000was not designed to
accommodate a nose gear retract,thereforeif you
wantretracts,you'll have to use the "taildragger"
configuration
You have a few choices regarding retracts,
and you should read the following before selecting
the retracts to beused inyour plane.
experienced breakage ina couple of instances
involving moderately hard landings
2.The Robartcompanyhas indicatedthatthe
following pneumatic retract system will work for
airplanes upto 12lbsusing stock wire struts,
but thattheRobostrutsshouldbe used for
planes over12lbs Listed here are the Robart
items needed forthe complete system #606
Retracts, #650 Robostruts, #188 Air control kit,
#190Quickdisconnects,#189Airline
restricters,#164GPump w/gauge, #170 Air
lineretainers
3.Atthe date of thiswriting,Robart has also
indicated thattheywillhave new heavy-duty
mechanicalretractswith3/16"wirestruts
available forthis airplane These retracts,
althoughnot testedintheUS1000, may be
ideal forthis airplane you may want to check
with your hobby dealer regarding the availability
of these retracts.
1.The retracts shown inthis bookare B&D 90-
degree2-gearmainsTheseunitsare
mechanicaland are supplied with5/32" wire
struts which are not considered strong enough
forthisairplane,therefore,thiskitincludes
3/16" wirestrutswhichyoumay installin the
B&D retract units by drilling them out Although
this system has worked reliably forus.we have
5

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Four-channel radio with 6 servos (additional channel
and retract servo required if retractsare being used).
An800to1200mAhreceiverbatteryis
recommended (IMAA requires 1000mAh)
•2 - Servo wire "Y"-harnesses.
•2 - Servo wire extensions.
•18-Hinges*
•Propellers (Top Flite"Power Point" recommended-
see engine instructions and above table).
•Spinner- 2-3/4" or 3"diameter (see above table)
•FuelTank (12to 16ounce)
•Main Wheels - 2 (3"dia.for fixedgear, 2-3/4" for
retracts)
•Nose Wheel -1(3"diameter, required fortrike only)
•TailWheel -1(1"diameter, required for taildragger
only)
•3/16"Wheel Collars- 4 or6
•3/32"Wheel Collars - 2 (requiredfor taildragger
only)
•Iron-onCovering Material(TopFliteMonoKote®
recommended)
•SiliconeFuelTubing
•WingSeatingTape (or silicone sealer . . . see
page50)
•Latex FoamRubber Padding (1/4" thick)
•Dubro"E-Z Connectors" (orequivalent) - 2
•PlasticPilot(WilliamsBros.1/4-scale)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
•3 oz.Thin BulletCA Adhesive
•3 oz.MediumorThickBulletCA Adhesive
•2.5oz. 30-Minute Bullet Epoxy
•HandorElectric Drill
•DrillBits:1/16",5/64",3/32",7/64",1/8",9/64",
5/32",3/16" (Long), 13/64", 1/4",and 5/16"
•HobbySaw (X-acto Razor Saw)
•X-acto Knife, #11 Blades
•Pliers
•Screw Drivers
•T-Pins
•Straightedge
•MaskingTape
•Sandpaper (coarse, medium,fine grit)*
•T-Bar Sanding Block, or similar
•Waxed Paper
•Lightweight BalsaFiller
•1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
•Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
•SealingIron
•Heat Gun
•IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
•3M"77"Spray Adhesive (optional)
•Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
*NOTE: There are many types of good hinges on
themarket,andeveryonehastheirpersonal
preferences,therefore,hingeshavenotbeen
included inthis kit.The currentfavoriteformany
modelers isthe type of laminated hinge that permits
hinge slottingwithan X-actoknife,and gluing with
thin CA adhesive Ifyou are building a taildragger,
heavy-duty hinges are recommended forthe rudder.
Seethe IMAA SafetyGuidelines, a portion of which is
printedinthe Appendix at the end of this book.
*NOTE: Onourworkbench, we have four 11"T-Bar
sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and #150-grit
sandpaperThissetupis allthatis requiredfor
almost any sanding task.
6

7
DIEPATTERNS
UseThisDrawingToIdentifyDie-CutParts

GET READY TO BUILD
D1.Unrollthe plansheets Re-roll them insideout
tomakethemlie flatNOTE Youmaycutthe
fuselage plan into two sections forease of building on
the "Bottom View"You may also cut the wing plan
intothree sections bycutting along the "cut lines."
D2 Remove all parts from the box Asyou do,
figure out the name of each part bycomparing itwith
theplansand thepartslist(seeseparatesheet).
Using a softpencil or a felttippen, writethe part
name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later
Use the die-cut patterns on page 7 to identify the die-
cut parts and mark them before punching out Save
all scraps Ifany of the die-cut parts are difficultto
punch out, do not forcethem' Instead, firstcut around
the parts with an X-actoknife Afterpunching out the
die-cutparts,use yourT-Baror sandingblockto
lightlysand the edges to square them upand remove
any die-cutting irregularities
D3 Asyou identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse, wing, fin and stab,
andhardware.
9"stick, cutthe rudder bottom, and glue on the 1/4"x
1/4"x 3-1/2" balsa rudder top Cut twogussets from
the remaining 1/4"x 1"balsa forthe inside corners of
the rudder Working right on the plan, pinthese parts
inplace and glue them together to make the rudder
framework.
D3 Fromthe 1/8"x 1/4"x 30"sticks, cut the internal
rudder "ribs"(trussing)tofitbetweentherudder
framework, and glue them inplace NOTE: Itisnot
necessary to get these braces inthe exact position
shown onthe plan.
D4 Examine the rudder framework and addthick CA
glue toany open joints,then,use yourT-barwith
mediumgritsandpapertosand bothsidesof the
rudder framework smooth.
D5.Cut and sand the outside perimeter of the rudder
framework to match the plan.
TAIL FEATHERS
PARTS NEEDED TOBUILDTHE FINAND RUDDER:
D(1) US10S01 1/4"x 1"x 9"Balsa Rudder Bottom, etc.
D(1)US10S02 1/4"x 1/2"x 9"Balsa Rudder TE
D(1) US10S03 1/4"x 3/4" x 20"Balsa FinTE, Rudder LE
D(1)US10S04 1/4"x 1/4"x 3-1/2" Balsa Rudder Top
D(1) US10S05 3/8"x 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" Balsa FinLE
D(1) US10S20 3/8"x 1"x 7"Balsa FinTop
D(2) US10S06 1/4"x 3-1/4" x 1-1/2" Balsa FinBottom
D(2)US10S081/8"x 1/4"x 30"BalsaFin& Rudder
"Ribs"
D(3)US10S17 1/16" x 3"x 30"Balsa Stab/Fin Sheeting
D(1)WBNT128 3/32" wire Tailgear Assembly
BUILDTHE RUDDER
D1 Tape thefuselage plan (side view) down to
your flat work surface Tape a piece of waxed paper
over the fin and rudder portion of the plan
D2.Usinga razor saw, cut a piece of 1/4"x 3/4"
balsa(from the 20"stick) to make the rudder leading
edge Trim the ends of the 1/4"x 1/2"x 9"balsa stick
to make the rudder trailing edge From the 1/4"x 1"x
D6 Carefullydraw a centerline all around the edges
of the rudder (this will helpto maintain symmetry when
sanding)
D7 Usinga sanding block andcoarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper
as shown on the plans The trailing edge should end
upapproximately 1/16"wide
8

D8 From the 1/16"x 3"x 30"balsa sheets, cut four
12"lengths Edge glue these sheets together inpairs
to make two6" x 12" sheets,and sand both sides
smooth witha sanding block
D9 Laytherudderframework onthe sheeting, mark
the outline, and trim the sheeting to the approximate
outline Leave the sheeting slightly oversize to allow
for positioning.
BUILDTHEFIN
NOTE:You will construct the fin framework andadd
the 1/16" balsa sheeting, then, you will add the 3/8"
balsaleading edge and fin top.
D1.Cut the remaining 1/4"x 3/4"balsa stick to make
the fin trailing edge.
D2 Edge glue the two 1/4"x 3-1/4" x 1-1/2" balsa
blockstogethertomakethe6-1/2"x 1-1/2"fin
bottom Cut offthe ends of this sheet to match the
planPinthe fin bottom and trailing edge to the plan.
D3.Complete the finframework bycutting and fitting
piecesof 1/8" x 1/4" balsa, as shown on the plan.
Gluethis assembly together.
D4 From the remaining 1/4" x 1"balsa stock, cut a
gusset to fit inthe lower front corner of the fin Gluein
place
IMPORTANT NOTE: Itisessential to get a very
good glue bond between the rudder framework and
the sheeting
D10.Securely glue the 1/16"balsa sheeting to one
sideof the rudderframework
D11.Trim and sand the edges of the sheeting flush
withtheperimeterof the stab framework.
D12Repeat steps 10and 11,sheeting the other
sideof the rudder.
D13Sand the leading edge of the rudder to a "V-
shape" and sand the trailing edge to a rounded shape
(see the rudder cross-section onthe plan)Leave the
top andbottom edges square.
D5.Remove the finframeworkfromthe building
board, sand both sides smooth, and sheet both sides
of the fin with 1/16"balsa inthe same manner as the
rudderThe fincan besheeted using only one of the
1/16"x 3"x 30"balsa sheets
D6.Glue the 3/8"x 1-1/2"x 10-1/2"balsafinleading
edgeto the front edge of the built-up fin.
D7 Trim off the top and bottom of the leading edge
to match the planSandboth sides of the fin smooth
9

D8.Gluethe 3/8"x 1"x 7"balsafin top to the top
edge of the finassembly. Trim and sand the frontend
of this piece to match the plan.HINT:Using an X-actoknife, sharpen the inside of
one end of a 1/8"diameter brass tube, and use itto
cut the groove inthe leading edge of the rudder.
D9.Temporarily tape the rudder to the fin. While
holding the rudder in the neutral position, sand the
3/8"x 1"fin top to match the rudder.
D10.Draw a centerline on the finleading edge and
fin top, which will helpyou maintain symmetry while
sanding.
D11.Usinga sanding block, sand the finleading
edge to the approximateshape as shown inthe fin
cross-sectionon the plan. Sand the fintop toa
roundedshape.
D12.Ifyou are buildingyour Ultra-Sport 1000 as a
"taildragger," check the plans and mark the location of
the tailgear on the rudder. Drilla 7/64" hole inthe
rudder (the hole isdrilled slightly oversize to allow for
positioning,andtocreatea hardepoxy"sleeve"
around thewire).Then groove the rudder leading
edgetoacceptthetailgearwireand thenylon
tailgear bearing.
PARTS NEEDED TO BUILDTHE ELEVATORS AND
STABILIZER:
D (1) US10S14 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 5"Balsa Stab Center
D (1) US10S15 3/8" Shaped Plywood Stab "Spar"
D (2) US10S12 3/8" x 3/4" x 26-3/4" Balsa Stab TE,Elev
LE
D (1) US10S13 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" Balsa ElevTE
D (1) US10S11 1/4" x 3/8" x 4" Balsa Elev End
D (4) US10S16 1/8" x 3/8" x 30"Balsa Stab "Ribs"
D(2) US10S09 1/2"x 2"x 14-7/8" Balsa Stab LE
D(2) US10S10 1/2"x 1"x 6-1/4" Balsa Stab Tips
D (6) US10S17 1/16" x 3" x 30"Balsa Stab/Fin Sheeting
D(1)US10S21 1/32" x 1-1/4"x 11-1/2"PlySpar
Thickener
BUILDTHE ELEVATORS
D1.Tape the stabilizer plan (side view) down to
your flat worksurface,and coverwithwaxedpaper.
D2. Inthe same manner as the rudder (steps 1 - 5),
build the frameworkof both elevators. Cut one of the
3/8" x 3/4" x 26-3/4" balsa sticks to make the leading
edges. Use the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30"balsa stick forthe
trailing edges. Cut upthe 1/8"x 3/8"x 30"sticks as
needed for the "ribs"(trussing).
D3.Carefully draw a centerline allaround the edges
of the elevators(this willhelpto maintainsymmetry
when sanding).
10

D4 Usinga sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the elevators to a taper
asshown onthe plans.The trailing edge should end
upapproximately 1/16"wide. (See photo proceeding
page.)
D5 Select the two softest (lightest) 1/16"x 3"x 30"
balsa sheets, and use them to sheet both sides of the
elevatorsMake sure you obtain a good glue bond
between the sheeting and the internal structure.
D6.Sand the leading edge of the elevatorsto a "V-
shape" as shown on the plan Sand the trailing edge
to a slightly rounded shape Donotround the elevator
ends (leave them square)
betweenthestabsheetingandthe stab
framework, especially inthe center, therefore,we
recommend using 30-minute epoxy when you apply
the finalpiece of sheeting Spread the epoxy evenly
but sparingly, to avoid excess weight
D6 Cut one end of the two 1/2"x 2"x 14-7/8" balsa
stab leadingedges tomatch theplan at the stab
centerlineGluetheleadingedgestothestab
frameworkCut and sand theends of the leading
edgesto match the ends of the stab.
D7 Glue the 1/2"x 1"x 6-1/4" balsa stab tipsto the
ends of the stab Trim and sand the frontends of the
stab tips to match the plan
BUILD THE STABILIZER
NOTE: You will construct the stab framework and
add the 1/16" balsa sheeting, then, you willaddthe
1/2"balsaleadingedges andtips.
D1 Accuratelypin the 3/8"x 3/4"x 26-3/4"balsa
stabTE onto the plan.
D8 Temporarilytapetheelevatorstothestab.
While holding theelevatorsin theneutralposition,
sand the 1/2"x 1"stab tips to match the elevator.
D2 Trial fitthe 3/8" x 2-3/4" x 5"balsa stab center
and the triangle-shaped 3/8" ply spar* inplace on the
plan.The leading edge of the spar should line upwith
the lines on the plan Ifnot, sand theedges of the
balsa stab centeruntil these parts line upcorrectly
Securely glue the stab center to the stab TE, and glue
the spar to the stab center.
*NOTE: Itiscommon forthe 3/8"plyto beslightly
thinner than the 3/8" balsa Forthis reason, we have
included a 1/32" x 1-1/4" x 11-1/2" ply sheet Ifthe
spar inyour kit isthinner than the 3/8" balsa stab
center, glue the 1/32"ply sheet to the spar, andtrim
the edges to match the spar.
D3 Complete the stab frameworkby cutting and
fitting pieces of 1/8"x 3/8" x 30" balsa, as shown on
the plan.Gluethis assembly together.
D4 Remove the stab framework from the building
board and sand both sides andalledges smooth.
D5.There are four remaining 1/16"x 3"x 30"balsa
sheets Edge glue these sheets together inpairs to
maketwo6" x 30" sheets,andsandbothsides
smooth witha sanding block Use these to sheet the
top and bottom of the stab frameworkNOTE: Itis
essentialtoget a strongand completebond
D9 Draw a centerline on the stab leading edge and
tips,whichwillhelptomaintainsymmetrywhile
sanding.
D10.Usinga sanding block, sand the stab leading
edge to the approximate shape as shown inthe stab
cross-sectionon the plan Sand the stab tips to a
rounded shape.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
D1 Using the plans as a guide, mark the hinge
locations on the stab, elevators, fin and rudder.
NOTE:There are many types of good hinges on the
market, and everyone has their personal preferences,
therefore,hinges have not been included in thiskit.
The current favoriteformany modelers isthe typeof
laminated hinge thatpermitshinge slottingwithan
X-acto knife, and gluing withthin CA adhesive Ifyou
are buildinga taildragger,heavy-dutyhingesare
recommended forthe rudder See the IMAASafety
Guidelines inthe Appendix at the end of this book.
11

CAUTION!!!: You must useextreme care when
cutting hinge slots with an X-acto knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! Ifthe balsa part breaks while
you are pushing onthe knife, the blade could go
into your hand before you know it!A good pre
caution isto wear leathergloves whileperforming
this step.
D2.Cutthe hingeslots andtemporarily install the
elevator and rudder hinges.
D(2)WBNT170 3/16"wire MainLGStruts
(PARTSNEEDED FOR OPTIONAL RETRACTABLE
LANDING GEAR)
D(2)US10W16 1/4"x1-5/16"x3-5/16" Ply Rear Mtng. Plate
D(2)US10W17 1/4"x3-5/16" Tapered PlyFront Mtng.
Plate
D (2) US10W33 Die-cut 1/8" PlyRib Doublers (taildrag
ger)
D(1)WBNT171 3/16" wireLeft Retract Strut
D(1) WBNT172 3/16" wireRight Retract Strut
D(2) Pushrod wires w/ 2-56 threads one end (NOT INC)
D(2) 2-56 steel clevises (NOT INCLUDED)
WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS NEEDED TO BUILD THE WING:
D(4) US10W07 1/8"x1/2"x39-1/8" Basswood Long Spar
D(4) US10W08 1/8"x1/2"x26" Basswood Medium Spar
D(4)US10W09 1/8"x1/2"x13-13/16" Basswood Short
Spar
D (1) US10W02 ShapedBalsaLE and TE Set
D (1) US10W14 3/32" x3" x2-5/8" Balsa ShearWebs (22)
D(2)US10W01 15/32"x1-1/2"x40" Tapered Balsa Aileron
D(4) US1OW03 3/32"x2"x39-3/8" Balsa TE Sheeting
D(4) US10W04 3/32 x3"x39-1/8"Balsa LESheeting
D(2)US10W05 3/32"x1-3/4"x24-1/2" Balsa Front LE
Sheet
D(4)US10W06 1/8"x1/2"x3-1/4" PlyAileron Servo Rail
D(12) US10W10 3/32"x3"x11-1/8" Balsa Center Sheeting
D(1) US10W20 3/32"x3'x18" Balsa Aileron Bay Sheeting
D(2) US10W21 1-1/4"x1-7/8"x11-5/8" Balsa Wing Tip
D(1)US10W12 1/4"x39-1/8" Tapered Balsa TE Support
Jig
D (2) US10W15 5/16" Dia. x 6"Birch Wing Dowel
D(2) US10W22 Die-cut 1/8"Balsa Rib 1,etc.
D (2) US10W27 Die-cut3/32" Balsa Ribs4, 6 & 13
D (2) US10W23 Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs3&5
D (2) US10W24 Die-cut3/32" Balsa Ribs 2 & 8
D(2) US10W25 Die-cut 3/32" Balsa Ribs 10,11& 12
D (2) US10W26 Die-cut3/32"Balsa Ribs 7 & 9,etc.
D(1) US10W35 Die-cut 1/8"Ply Dihedral Brace
D(1) US10F29 Die-cut 1/8"Ply Dihedral Gauge, etc.
D(1) US10F34 Die-cut 1/16"Ply Bolt Plate, etc.
D(1) GLTP014 4" x 36"Fiberglass Cloth
D(6) SS90W11 3/32" x 3/8" x 36"Balsa Cap Strips
D(2)NYLON03 Small nylon Control Horn
D(10) SCRW002 2-56 x 5/8"Machine Screw
PREPARE WING PARTS
Beforeassemblingthewing,thereareseveral
preliminary assemblies that must bemade. ..
D1.Before using the hard balsa spars, examine
them carefullyforpossible imperfectionsLook for
knots,softspots,diagonalgrainand any other
imperfections Ifpossible, position each spar so the
imperfections (ifany) are on the outer half of the wing
panel (toward the tip),where they will beleast affected
byhigh stress Ifthe spars are warpedslightly, try to
"balance them out" by installing the warped spars in
opposite directions (see sketch) NOTICE: Ifyou feel
that any of the wingparts are unusable due to severe
warps or other defects, give usa call and we'll replace
the parts.
Two Warped Spars Installed This Way Will
Result InA Straight Wing
(ADDITIONALPARTSNEEDEDFOR FIXED
LANDINGGEAR)
D(2) SS90W18 1/2"x3/4"x7-3/4" Basswood MainLG
Block
D(2)US10W13 1/2"x3/4"x1-1/2" MapleShortLGBlock
D(2) SS90W20 1/2"x3/4"x1/2" Maple LGReinf. Block
D(2)US1OW33 Die-cut1/8"Ply Rib Doublers (taildrag
ger)
D(2)US10W32 Die-cut1/8"PlyRib Doublers (tnke gear)
Two Warped Spars InstalledThisWay Will
Result InA Warped Wing
12

D2 Sand one end of each of the medium and short
spars to a 2-1/2"taper as shown inthe "Wing Spar
Detail" on the plan
D3.Glue the medium spars to the longspars, and
gluethe short spars to the medium spars, as shown
inthe "Wing Spar Detail." Sand the edges of the
spars toremove any excessglue and to make the
edges uniform. Make four spar assemblies.
RIBDOUBLERS(FixedLanding Gear -
TAILDRAGGER)
(Skip this section of you will beinstalling retracts)
D1 Identifythe die-cut1/8" ply landinggear
doublers for fixedtaildragger,using the following
sketch:
RIBS
D1.Carefully punch out allthe die-cut balsa wing
ribs. Sand theedges slightly to remove any die-
cutting irregularities.
D2.Note that the wing plan shows two alternate
locations forthe main landing gear blocks Note also
that Ribs W-2,W-3and W-4have partial cutouts for
each of the twolocationsIf you are building your
plane as a fixedgear taildragger, cut out the front
notches inthese ribs Ifyou are building your plane
with a tricyclegear, cut out the rear notches (If you
will beinstalling retracts,do not cut out any of the
notches).
RIB DOUBLERS (Fixed LandingGear - TRIKE)
(Skip this section ifyour airplane isto bea taildragger)
D1.Identifythedie-cut1/8" ply landing gear
doublers forfixedtrikegear, using thefollowing
sketch:
D2.The doubler forribW-2 has a notch cut out for
the landing gear block The doublers forribs W-3 and
W-4 have the notch locations marked, and you must
now cut out these notches.
Do not cut out aft rib notches as shown in photo.
D3 Glue these die-cut 1/8"ply landing gear doublers
to ribs W-2,W-3and W-4NOTE: Make a RIGHT
and a LEFTset, gluing the doublers to the inboard
side of the ribs. Take careto carefullyalignthe
doublers withthe spar notches The doublersare
slightly shorter than the ribs atthe frontedge, to allow
fitting into the leading edge notches.
Do not cut out front rib notches as shown in photo.
D2.Glue these die-cut 1/8"ply landing gear doublers
to ribs W-2, W-3and W-4. NOTE: Make a RIGHT
and a LEFT set, gluing the doublers to the inboard
sideof the ribs.
RIB DOUBLERS (Optional Retractable LandingGear)
D1.Identifythedie-cut1/8" ply landing gear
doublers for retracts, using the following sketch:
D2.Note that these doublers have two small punch
marks. Push a T-pin throughthesemarksso the
location isvisible on both sides Now draw a line from
the frontedge of each doubler to the back edge, using
the two small holes foralignment Draw the lineson
bothsidesTheselineswilllaterbe usedfor
alignment of the retract mounting plates.
13

D3 The doubler forribW-3ismarked for a long,
narrow notch Extendthe lines of thisnotch to the
edge of the doubler, and cut out this notch
LEADING& TRAILING EDGES
D1 The shaped and notched wing leading edges
(LE)and trailing edges (TE) are fastened together by
thin strips of balsa Separate them by cutting with an
X-actoknife, as shown inthe following sketch.
D4 Glue these die-cut 1/8"plylandinggear doublers
to ribs W-3 and W-4 NOTE: Make a RIGHT and a
LEFTset, gluing the doublers to the inboard side
of the ribs. Take care to carefully align the doublers
withthesparnotchesThe doublersareslightly
shorter than the ribs atthe frontedge, to allow fitting
the ribs into the leading edge notches
D5 Cut out the longslotinthe W-3 ribsusingthe
slot inthe doublers as a guide
D6 Ifyou will beinstalling B&D retracts, drill a 3/8"
holeinthe #4 doublers, using the punched holeinthe
W-4 ribs as a guide.
LEADINGEDGESHEETING
D1.Prepare the leading edge sheeting as follows
Edgeglue the 3/32" x 1-3/4" x 24-1/2" balsa sheets to
the 3/32" x 3"x 39-1/8" balsa sheets as shown here,
making foursets. NOTE: The twosmallerfront
sheetswillbe cuton a diagonalin thenextstep,
providingyou withthefrontpieces you willneed to
complete the 3rd and 4th sets
D2.Nowmeasure andmark the balsa sheeting (see
sketch below), then cut the angle inthe sheeting,
cutting along a metal straightedge foraccuracy
D2 Examinetheshaped,notchedleading and
trailing edges Notice that the notches at one end of
each LE and TE are 3-1/2" apart These are the
notches forW-1 and W-2 Also notice that allnotches
inthe LEand TE are vertical, however,rib W-1 willbe
installed at a slight angle using the Dihedral Gauge
Therefore, you should now modify the notch forW-1
by cuttingittotheangleoftheribYoumay
determine the approximate angle of the cut byholding
the Dihedral Gauge (DG) against the LEas shown
above.
BUILDTHEWING PANELS
NOTE:Itwill be helpful to buildthe wing on a piece
of "Celotex" or othersemi-soft (and flat)surface, into
which you may easily stick pins to firmlyhold down the
wing parts while building, to avoid warps
D1 Tape the plan to your flatwork surface,and
cover thewingdrawingwithwaxedpaper (soyou
won't glue the wing to the plan') NOTE:Ifyour work
14

space islimited, you maycut the leftandrightwing
half drawings apart with the aft edge of the TE (see sketch below)You
may cover the top edge of the Jigwitha strip of waxed
paper or plastic wrap to avoid gluingitto the TE
NOTE: Follow steps 2 through 45 to build the
RIGHT wing panel, then repeat these steps to
buildthe LEFT wing panel.
DD 2 Pin one of the spars to the plan withthe
short spar facing upand toward the root. NOTE:
The spars are cut slightly too long Center the spar on
the plansoanequal amount protrudes on both ends.
DD 3 Placetheribson thesparin their
approximate position, but donot glue IMPORTANT:
Pay special attention to the way ribs W-1 through W-7
are installed ..
W-1:Oval-shaped retract pushrod holeup.
W-2: LGslots down, LGdoubler (ifany)
towards tip
W-3: LGslots down, LGdoubler towards tip
W-4: LGslots down, LGdoubler towards root.
W-5: Oval-shaped aileron servo wireholeup
W-6: Aileronservo rail slots down
W-7: Aileron servo rail slots down
This photo is not 100% accurate Some components
may vary
DD 4 Insert the rearends of theribs intothe
notches inthe TE, then block upthe TE with the 1/4"
balsaTEJigsupplied NOTE:THE NARROW END
OF THE TE JIG ISAT RIB W-13. Securely pin the jig
tothe buildingsurface, with the aft edge of the Jig even
DD 5 Pinthe TE to the TEJig,making sure the ribs
lineupwith the plan
DD 6 Glue ribsW-2throughW-13totheTE
(Apply glue sparingly,to avoid gluing the TE to the
Jig) GlueribsW-2,W-6and W-13tothespar,
makingsuretheyarelinedup withtheplan,and
positionedat90-degrees to the work surface
DD 7 Work the notched leading edge onto the
frontends of the ribs NOTE: Position the LEas
shown here
Center LEVertically On Front Of Ribs
15

This photo is not 100% accurate. Some components
may vary.
DD 8. Make sure the ribsare fully down onthe plan
and all ribs are inserted into the LEnotches. Angle rib
W-1slightly using the dihedral gauge (DG). Glue W-
1to the TE, LEand bottom spar. Glue allother ribs to
the LEand bottom spar. Follow upby applying a drop
or two of medium or thick CA to allspar/rib joints.
DD 9.Gluethe top sparinplace, making sure you
do notchangetheangleofW-1.IMPORTANT:
Install the top spar with the short spar facing down.
This photo is not 100% accurate. Some components
may vary.
DD 10.Sort through the pre-cut 3/32" balsa vertical
grain shear webs, selecting the hardest ones (which
will beused near the root of the wing). Glue the shear
webstotherearedge of thesparsinall rib bays
exceptbetween ribs W-1and W-2.NOTE: You
may wish to trial fit,mark, and trim each web before
gluing in. NOTE: The webs must besecurely glued
to the spars, butitisnotnecessary to glue the webs
to the ribs.
DD 11.Lightly sand the tops of the ribs to blend with
the notched trailing edge; then glue one of the 3/32" x
2" x 39-3/8"balsa trailingedge sheetsinplace.
NOTE: The edge of the TE sheet may notbeexactly
straight,but justpositionthesheetso it slightly
overlaps the TE, and any overlap can besanded off
later.
DD 12.Before applying the leading edge sheeting in
the next step, block upthe leading edge ina few
places with scraps of wood. Then use your T-bar to
lightlysandofftheedgesoftheshearwebsand
smoothly blend the ribs to the spar. Also, lightlysand
the tops of the ribsto eliminate imperfections.
DD 13.Prepare the 3/32" balsa leading edge
sheeting bysanding the front edge to a slight bevel
so it willfitsnugly againstthe back of the leading
edge.
NOTE: Itwill behelpful to have the following items
handyfor the nextstep . . . thin CA, thick CA, a wet
cloth and masking tape. Read through the following
step and go through a "dry run" before actually gluing.
NOTE: Inthe next steps, maintain straightness by
keeping the wing down on the flat surface andon
the TE Jig.
DD 14.Position the leading edge sheeting at the
rear edge of the notched LE so thereisan equal
16

amount protruding onbothends of the wing Using
thin CA, glue the front(beveled) edge of the leading
edge sheeting to the back edge of the leading edge.
Now wet the top surface of the sheeting (ifnecessary)
to make itbend easier Apply thick CA glue to the top
edge of the ribs and to the fronthalf of the spar Then
immediately bend the sheeting down onto the ribs and
spar Hold thesheetingdownwithlong stripsof
masking tape until the glue hasset.
DD 15Usingthe 3/32"x 3"x 11-1/8"balsa sheets,
glue the top center sectionsheeting inplace as
shown on the plan (Use the scraps trimmed from the
LEsheeting ifneeded forthe aft pieces).
DD 16From the 3/32" x 3/8" x 36"balsa sticks, cut
and glue cap strips to the top edges of all exposed
ribs,from the TE sheeting to the LEsheeting HINT:
Foreasier positioning of the cap strips, first mark the
location of each rib on the LEand TE sheeting
DD 17.Remove the wing panel fromthe building
boardCheckallgluejoints,addingglueas
necessary.
DD 18.Usinga razor saw and a sanding block,
carefully cut offand sand all excess sheeting spars,
LEand TE even withW-1 and W-13. Sand the TE
sheeting flush with the TE.
FORFIXED LANDING GEAR, perform steps 19-22
DD 19Trial fitthe long grooved hardwood LG
block intothe notches inribs W-2, W-3 and W-4 (see
the wing plan forproper positioning) Filethe notches
ifnecessary fora good fit. Now useepoxy to securely
glue the block inplace.
DD 20.Epoxy the 1/2"x 3/4"x 1-1/2" hardwood
block to the LGblock and to the 1/8"ply doubter on
ribW-2, as shown on the plan and inthe photo Then
epoxy the 1/2"x 3/4"x 1/2"hardwood block to the
other end of the LGblockandto the 1/8"plydoubler
onribW-4.
DD 21Drill a 3/16" hole down through the grooved
LGblock and the 1-1/2" block Line upthe drill so you
are drilling straight down through the middle of the 1-
1/2"block.
DD 22 Trial fitthe 3/16" diameter main landing
gear wire into the landing gear block at this time Cut
or filethe grooveand hole inthe landinggear block as
necessary fora good fit
FORRETRACTS, perform steps 23 - 31
NOTE: Inthe Ultra-Sport 1000prototype we used
B&D mechanical retracts, and you willsee them inthe
photographs You may use whatever type of retracts
you prefer, as longas they are of the correct size for
thisairplane(seetheintroductoryremarksat the
beginning of this book) Ifyou are using B&D retracts,
itwill benecessary to drill them out to accept the 3/16"
wire struts supplied inthis kit (see below*) Itisalso
recommended that you filea "flat" on the 3/16" struts
atthe set screw location, to prevent the struts from
turning You should wait until the retracts have been
installed before doing so,to insure proper alignment
(See Step 30).
instructions for drilling B&D retracts. Back out the set
screw so itwon't interfere with the drill Drill out the
strut hole firstwith an 11/64" bit, then a 3/16" bit Ifit
isdifficultto insert the strut, re-drillthe hole witha #12
(.189") drill bitStop drilling as soon as you feel the
bit bottom out inthe hole. Temporarilyinstall the
gear strut,tighten the setscrew, and check operation.
Dueto the larger strut, the setscrew may bind against
the actuator arm and prevent fullretraction Ifthis is
the case, you'llhave to filea small amount offthe top
of the set screw Dothis bydrilling a 5/32" hole ina
scrap piece of hardwood, screwingthe set screw in
with 1/32" protruding, and filing offthe top of the set
screw.
NOTE: Most standard wheels have a 5/32" diameter
axlehole,so you'llhavetodrillthehubs ofyour
wheelstofitthe3/16"diameterlanding gear wire
supplied inthis kit Start by using a 3/16" drill bit, but
because the nylon hub material issomewhat flexible,it
may be necessary to use a 13/64" drill bit to get the
hole large enough to allow the wheel to turn freely.
17

NOTE:Install a wheel on the strut and check out how
much forceittakes to raise the wheel Ifyou are using
standard(heavy)wheels,it may be necessaryto
increase thetensionon the retractassistspringIf
you are using lighter wheels, such as Sullivan "Skylite"
wheels, the stock spring tension may be adequate
DD 23. Youpreviouslydrewlines throughthe
location holes inthe doublers on ribs W-3and W-4.
Now measure down 1/4"fromthis line (toward the top
sheeting) and make a fewmarks
DD 24 Findallthe 1/4"balsatriangle inthe kit,and
select the hardest balsa forthe next step
DD 29 Install the retract mechanism (with the gear
strutbut withouta wheel)and thepushrod* Cut
clearance holes and notches inthe ribs and mounting
plate as required forthe strut and pushrod Cycle the
geara fewtimestomakesureeverythingclears
*Pushrods foroptional retracts notincluded inkit
DD 30This isa good time to file a "flat" on the gear
strut A good way to do this is to align the axle with
the spar (or set itto "toe-in"slightly), then tighten the
set screw to mark the strut Remove the strut,and file
aflatarea on the strut similar to the stock strut that
came withthe retracts Re-install the strut, tighten the
set screw, andcheck the strut alignment.
DD 31. Remove the strut,but leave the retract
mechanism inthe mount Measure exactlywhere the
strut socket is,and make reference marks on the spar
and LEso that you can later cut intothe leading edge
sheeting inthe right place to find itafter the sheeting
hasbeen installed
DD 25. Cutpieces of 1/4"balsa triangle to run 1/4"
below the lines on the doublers, fromthe spar to the
LEGlue these triangles to the doublers to serve as
supports forthe retract mounting plates Cut away the
section of the triangle that bridges the slotinW-3.
DD 26 Bevel the rear edge of the 1/4" x 1 -5/16" x 3-
5/16" ply aft retractmounting plate to fitsnugly against
the spar Bevel the frontedge of the tapered 1/4 ply
retract mounting plate to fitsnugly against the LE
DD 27 Trialfityourretractmechanism ontothe
mounting plates, and cut out notches inthe plates as
necessary to clear the mechanism
DD 28 Using 30-minute epoxy,glue the retract
mounting plates securelyto the rib doublers, spar and
LEWipe away any excess epoxy along the LE
WING ASSEMBLY CONTINUES
(for alllanding gear options)
DD 32 Glue one of the die-cut 1/8"ply LEdoublers
tothe back of the LE,between ribs W-1 and W-2
DD 33 Place the wing panel upside down on the
building board, turn the TE support jigend forend and
pinthe TE to the support jig(again, with the narrow
end of the jigat the wing tip),and place blocks under
the leading edge foradditional support
DD 34 Sand the TE to blend with the ribs Sand off
any excess glue or other imperfections on the bottom
of the wing Then install the 3/32" x 2" x 39-3/8"
bottom TE sheeting.
18

IMPORTANT NOTE: To insure a straight wing,
you must pinor weight the TE securely down on
the TE jig whilethe bottom sheetingisgluedin
place!
DD 35 Sanda bevelon thefrontoftheLE
sheeting, and glue itinplace as previously done on
the top (When bending the sheeting down over the
ribs,use longstripsof maskingtapetohold the
sheetingdown,ratherthanusing heavydownward
pressure with your hands, to avoid introducing warps).
NOTE: Ifyou are using fixedtaildragger gear, you
willneed to cut a slot inthe sheeting to fitaround the
main gear block Ifyou are using retracts,you will be
sheetingovertheretractmechanismIfyouhave
installedretracts,useyourmeasurementsand
referencemarks to locate and trim away the sheeting
at the center of the retract unit
DONOT install the bottom center section sheeting
atthis time.
theTEsheeting, anditshouldextend about1/8"past
the ribs on each side to simulate cap stripsCut a
holein thissheetingovertheservorailsjustbig
enough forthe servo to pass through, then mount the
servo to the rails NOTE: For most standard servos,
this will result inthe top of the servo case being flush
withthesheeting,withonlya enoughgap in the
sheeting ateach end of the servo forservo installation
andaccess to the mounting screws.
DD 38.From the 3/32"x 3/8"x 36"balsa sticks, cut
andglue cap strips to ribsW-5, W-8, W-9, W-10, W-
11,W-12andW-13.
DONOT install the bottom center section sheeting
at this time.
DD 39.Remove the wing panel from the building
boardandre-checkyourgluejointsSandthe
sheeting flush with ribs W-1 andW-13. Sand the TE
sheeting flushwith the TE.
DD 40Cuta 3"pieceanda 6"pieceoff the 1-1/2"x
40" tapered balsa aileron stock and glue these pieces
to the tipand root ends respectively(see thewing
plan) IMPORTANT:Whengluingthesepieces,
make sure they line upequally withthe top and bottom
surfaces of the wing Sand these pieces flush with W-
1andW-13 and to blendsmoothly with the wing.
DD 36.Glue the 1/8"x 1/2"x 3-1/4" plyaileron
servo rails into theslotsinW-6and W-7, spacing
them to fityour servo Temporarily mount a servo to
the rails.Make reference marks forthe edges of the
servo on the LEand TE sheeting and on ribs W-5 and
W-8 which you will useinthe next step Now remove
the servo.
DD 37.Using the 3/32" x 3"x 18"balsa sheet, cut
and glue pieces to the bottom of ribs W-6 and W-7
This sheeting covers the area from the LEsheeting to
DD 41 Glue the 1-1/4" x 1-7/8" x 11-5/8" balsa
wing tip to rib W-13 Then carve and sand itto the
shape shownon theplan. A razorplaneand a
sanding block with coarse sandpaper will speed this
task.
19

DD 42. The shape of the leading edge isvery
importanttotheperformanceof thefinished
airplane*. Carve and sand the leading edge to match
the template atthe rootand tip, and taper itsmoothly
from one end to the other *NOTE: Ifyou shape the
leadingedgetomatchthedie-cut1/8"plyLE
Template supplied, this willresult ina very stable wing
that will resist tip stalling at high angles of attack For
example, itwillbe forgivingif you happen to flarea
little too much on the landing approach, and recovery
from spins will beinstantaneous On the other hand,
thisstabilitymaymaketheairplanesomewhat
sluggish when entering snap and spin maneuvers, and
itmay require increased elevatorand rudder throws
(and possiblyan aftCG location)to performthese
maneuvers Ifyour flyingstyledemands crispsnap
and spincapabilities,youmay wanttosand the
leadingedge to a slightly sharpershape (smaller
radius LE)
To avoid tip stalls, makesure the leadingedges
of both wing panels have the same shape.
DD 43 Cut theremaining aileron stock to the
correct length and trim the ends to the correctangles
Now sand the leading edge of the aileron to a "V"-
shapeas shownontheplanA razorplaneis
especially helpful forrough shaping the aileron leading
edge.
DD 44. Markthe hingelocations onthe aileron and
thewingTE. Cut thehinge slotsand testfitthe
aileron.
DD 45 From the plans, determine the location of
the small nyloncontrolhorn on the bottom of the
aileron Hold the control horn inplace and mark the
screwlocations. Drill 3/32" holes forthe screws,
drillingstraightdownthroughtheaileron(not
perpendicular to the top or bottom surfaces) Harden
the balsa inthe area of the control horns (on both
sides of the aileron) bypoking several small holes with
apin,thenapplyingthinCA glue Sand smooth.
Temporarily mount the nylon horn using the 2-56 x
5/8"machine screws and the nylon nutplates.
D46.Now goback andrepeat Steps 2 through 45 to
buildthe otherwing panel.
FINISHINSTALLING RETRACTS
(Skip to next section if using fixedgear)
NOTE:You shouldallowatleast24hoursfrom the
time you apply the bottom LEsheeting until you make
the wheel wellcutout inthe followingsteps This will
givethebalsa sheetingtimetoassumethenew
shape
D1.Using yourpreviousreferencemarksand
measurements,cuta holethroughthebottomLE
sheeting over each retract mechanism These holes
should bejust large enough to allow the gear strut to
beinstalled withthe gear inthe extended position.
D2. Mount a 2-3/4" wheel on each gear strut and
installthe struts inthe retract mechanisms With the
gear inthe "down and locked" position, make sure the
wheelsare properlyaligned (0-degreesto 1-degree
toe-in) NOTE: You may cut offany excess strut axle
lengththatprotrudes beyond the wheel collar.
D3 Slowly retract the gear, cutting away the leading
edge sheetingand W-2rib as required to clear the
strut and wheel as itretracts.
D4. Re-extend the gear, then enlarge the wheel well
area to 3-1/8"diameter Check frequently to besure
thattheopeningremainscenteredaroundthe
retractedwheelRemoveas much of rib W-2as
necessary.
20