GREAT PLANES ULTRA SPORT 60 User manual

ULTRA SPORT 60
INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET IN ITSENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANTINSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
ANDUSE OF THIS MODEL.
ThisR/C kit and themodelyouwillbuild isnot a toy! It iscapableofseriousbodilyharm and property
damage. IT ISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY ANDYOURS ALONE to build thiskit correctly, properly install
allR/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.)and to test the model and flyitonly with
experienced, competent help, using common sense and inaccordance with allsafety standards assetdown inthe
Academy ofModel Aeronautics Safety Code.It issuggested that you join the AMA tobecome properly insured
before you attempt to flythis model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING. CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TOTHE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TOFIND AN
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151East Memorial Drive
Muncie,IN47302-9252
[phone]
P.O.BOX 788
URBANA,ILLINOIS61801
[phone]

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION .............3
Precautions ................... 3
Abbreviations ................. 3
Decisions You Must Make ........ 4
Other Items Required ............ 4
Supplies and Tools Needed ....... 4
Die Patterns ................... 5
Types of Wood ................. 6
Get Ready to Build ............. 6
TAIL FEATHERS ............. 6
Fin and Rudder ................ 6
Stabilizer and Elevator ........... 7
Install Hinges .................. 8
WING ASSEMBLY ............ 8
Join Wing Panels ............... 13
Install Aileron Torque Rods ....... 13
Sand "Flats" on LE and TE ...... 14
Fiberglass Center Section ......... 14
Install Wing Tips ............... 15
Install Ailerons ................. 16
Install Wing Dowels ............ 16
Install Wing Bolt Plate ........... 17
Fill Landing Gear Slots .......... 17
Installing Retracts .............. 17
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY ....... 18
Prepare Fuse Sides .............. 18
Assemble Lower Fuselage ........ 19
Drill Engine Mount ............. 21
Install Servos, Guide Tubes ....... 22
Mount the Wing to the Fuse ....... 23
Fit Fuel Tank, Fuelproofing ....... 25
Install Turtle Deck .............. 25
Assemble Nose Section .......... 27
FINAL ASSEMBLY ............ 30
Sand Fuselage ................. 30
Install Wing Fairings .............30
Install Wing Fillets .............. 31
Shape Fin Fillets ................32
Mount Stabilizer and Fin.........33
Install Servos, Horns & Pushrods ...34
Control Surface Throws .......... 35
FINISHING ................... 36
Additional Fuelproofmg .......... 36
Seal Off Cockpit ................ 36
Prepare Canopy ................ 36
Balance Airplane Laterally ........ 36
Final Sanding .................. 37
Covering ...................... 37
Glue the Hinges ................ 37
Install Pilot .................... 38
Glue Canopy inPlace ............ 38
Wing Seating .................. 38
Re-install Engine & Radio ........ 38
Balance Your Model ............. 39
Final Hookups and Checks ........ 39
PRE-FLIGHT ................. 40
Charge Batteries ................ 40
Find a Safe Place to Fly .......... 40
Ground Check .................. 40
Range Check .................. 40
Engine Safety Precautions ........ 40
AMA SAFETY CODE .......... 41
FLYING ...................... 41
Takeoff ....................... 41
Flying ........................ 41
Landing ...................... 41
FLIGHT TRIMMING .......... 42
NOTES ...................... 45
PARTS LIST .................. 46
2-VIEW DRAWING ............ 48
2

Pleaseinspect all parts carefully before starting to
build! Ifany parts are missing, broken ordefective,orif
you have any questions about building orflyingthis
airplane,pleasecallusat [phone] andwe'llbeglad
tohelp.If you are callingfor replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and the kitidentification num-
ber (stamped onthe end ofthe carton) and have them
ready when calling.
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations! Thank you for purchasing the Great
Planes UltraSport 60!JimFeldmann'soriginal design was
featured as a construction article in the August,1989issue of
RC Modeler magazine, and has been hailed by manyas "the
best sport flyingairplane ever''!The design startswiththe
legendary "Kaos" wingplatform,and features modem
stylingand state-of-the-art construction techniques. The
resultisan ultra-stable, ultra-smooth flyingairplanethatdoes
what you wantit to, no more and no less.
The Ultra Sport 60is easy to build,totally predictable,
smooth-flyingand has very docile stall characteristics, mak-
ingittheultimatesportairplaneforthemodelerwhowants to
flywitha higherdegree of precision. Because itnaturally
tracks throughmaneuversbetter thanother sport airplanes,
you'llfly belterwhen you're flyingan Ultra Sport 60.
This is nota beginner'sairplane!Whilethe Ultra
Sport 60is easy to buildand flies great, we mustdiscourage
youfromselectingthiskitasyourfirstR/Cairplane. Itisfast,
highlymaneuverable,and lacks the self-recovery character-
istics of a good basic trainersuch as the Great Planes PT
Series airplanes.On the other hand,if you havealready
learned thebasics of R/C flyingand you are able to safely
handle an ''aileron trainer''airplane suchasthe GreatPlanes
TrainerSeries or Big Stick Series airplanes, the Ultra Sport
60isan excellent choice.
4.You mustproperly install allR/Cand othercomponents
sothat the model operatesproperly on the ground and in the
air.
5.You musttest theoperation ofthe model before the first
and each successive flighttoinsure that allequipment isop-
erating, and you mustmake certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises and horns often, and replaceif they show signs of
wear.
6.You must flythe model only with the competent help
ofa well experienced R/C pilot if you are not alreadyan
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, asthe kit manufacturer,canprovide youwitha top
quality kitand great instructions, butultimately the quality
and flyabilityof your finished model depends on how you
build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no representa-
tions areexpressed orimpliedastothe performance orsafety
ofyourcompleted model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions toend
upwithawell-builtmodel thatis light,straight and true.
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS ARE
VERY IMPORTANT ANDSHOULD BE FOL-
LOWED CAREFULLY
PRECAUTIONS
1.You mustbuildthe plane according to the plans and
instructions. Donotalterormodifythemodelasrepresented
by theplans,as doing somay result in an unsafeor unflyable
model. In a fewcases the plans and instructionsmay differ
slightlyfromme photos. In those instances you should
assume the plans and written instructions arecorrect
2.You musttake timeto buildstraight, true and strong.
3.You mustuse a proper R/C radio thatis in firstclass
condition,thecorrect sized engine and correct components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.)throughout your buildingprocess.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE= Leading Edge (front)
LG= Landing Gear
Lt= Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE= Trailing Edge (rear)
Tri= Triangle
=Inches
3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine sizerange is as follows:
.60- .65cubicinchdisplacement 2-cycle
.70- .91cubicinch displacement 4-cycle
Theengine you selectwilldetermine how you buildthe
fuselage, soit isimportant that you have the engine closeat
handwhilebuilding.
This kit includesthenew Great Planes Adjustable
Engine mount.This mountwill work on most .40-.60
2-Cyclesand.40-.704-cycles.Cutorbreakthe
"spreaderbar"offeachmounthalf.Thesurfaces
wherethespreaderbarswereattachedneed to be
very smooth to allow themounthalves to fittogether.
Snap thetwo mounthalves together. Slide themount
halves apartuntiltheengine mountinglugswillsit
flaton thebeams.
NOTE:Ifyou choose to power your Ultra Sport60with a 4.
cycle engine, keep inmindthat the RPM ofyour engine will
beconsiderably less than that ofa 2-cycle engine; therefore,
you should select a higher pitch propeller to keep the speed
and overall performance roughly equivalent tothat ofa 2-
cycle engine. Forexample, an 11x7 or 11x8prop would be
used witha .61(2-cycle) engine; butan 11x11prop may be
the best choice for a .914-cycle engine.
LANDING GEAR CONFIGURATION
The Ultra Sport60may be builtwith a "taildragger"
or"tricycle" landinggearconfiguration,and a retractable
main gear maybeinstalled if you wantto really ' 'clean up"
this airplane for ultra-smooth and precise aerobatics.
There is not. however, room for a nose gearretract;
therefore, if youwantretracts, you'llhave to use the "tail-
dragger" configuration.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
•Four-channel radio with4 servos (additional channel and
retract servo required if retracts are being used).
•Propellers (seeengineinstructionsand above engine
notes forrecommended sizes).
•Spinner (2-3/4" diameter)
•Fuel Tank (11 to 14ounce)
•Main Wheels* - 2 (2-1/2" dia. for fixed gear and retract)
•Nose Wheel* - 1 (2-1/2"diameter, required for trike
only)
•Tail Wheel - 1 (1"diameter, required for taildragger
only)
•5/32"Wheel Collars - 4 or6
•3/32" Wheel Collars - 2 (required for taildragger only)
•Iron-on Covering Material
•Silicone Fuel Tubing
•Wing Sealing Tape(orsilicone sealer ...seeinstruc-
tions)
•Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4"thick)
•Dubro "E-Z Connectors" (orequivalent) - 2
•Main GearRetracts: (optional)
Mechanical: Dave Brown 2-GearMain, or
equivalent
Pneumatic: Robart #60590-degree mains,or
equivalent(requires #188 air control kit)
•PlasticPilot (Williams Bros.2-5/8"scale)
•"Lightweight wheels arerecommended.
SUPPLIESAND TOOLS NEEDED
2oz.ThinCA Adhesive
2oz. Mediumor Thick CA Adhesive
2.5oz.30-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16".5/64",3/32",7/64",1/8",9/64".5/32",
13/64",7/32". and 1/4"
Sealing Iron
HeatGun
Hobby Saw (XactoRazorSaw)
Xacto Knife,#11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Straightedge
Masking Tape
Sandpaper (coarse,medium,finegrit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block, orsimilar
Waxed Paper
LightweightBalsa Filler
1/4-20Tap, Tap Wrench
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
Isopropyi RubbingAlcohol (70%)
3M "77"Spray Adhesive (optional)
Dremel Moto Toolor similar(optional)
*NOTE:On our workbench, we have four 11"T-Bar
sanders, equipped with#50,#80,#100and #150-grit sandpa-
per. This setup is all that is required for almost any sanding
task. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
handy for finishsanding before covering.
4

5
DIE DRAWINGS
Usethisdrawing to helpyou identifythe die-cutparts

TYPES OF WOOD
BASSWOOO
BALSA
3.Workingon aflat surfacecovered withwaxed paper,
GET READY TO BUILD
1.Unrolltheplan sheets. Re-roll them insideoutto make
them lie flat.NOTE: You maycutthe fuselage plan intotwo
sections for caseof buildingon the "Bottom View," by
cuttingalong the"cut line"shown on the plan.
2.Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figureout
the name ofeach part by comparing itwiththe plans and the
parts list. Using a felttippen, write the part nameor size on
each piece to avoid confusionlater. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on page 5 to identifythe die-cut parts and mark them
before punchingout. Save all scraps. If anyof thedie-cut
partsaredifficultto punchout,do not force them!Instead,
firstcutaround the parts withanXactoknife.Afterpunching
outthe die-cutparts, use yourT-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edgesto remove any die-cuttingirregulari-
ties.
3.As youidentifyand mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such asfuse (fuselage), wing,finand stab (stabi-
lizer),and hardware.
"TAILFEATHERS"
gluethe finfronttothe finrear, thenglueon thefintip.Sand
the front of the fintip toblend with the fin,asshown on the
plan.
4.Using a T-barorsanding block, sandboth sides of
the finsmooth. Then sand the leading edge and top edge to
arounded shape, asshown on the plan. Draw a centerline
along the trailing edge ofthe fin to mark the hinge line.
5.Glue the rudder front tothe rudderrear. then glue
onthe rudder bottomand rudder end.
6.Draw a centerline all around the edgesofthe rudder.
7.Using a sanding blockand coarse(50or80-grit)
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
1.Find the following parts: 5/16" balsa fin front, fin
rear,rudderfront, rudderrearandrudderbottom.Compare
the parts to the plansto make sure youhavethe correct parts.
Also findthe 5/16"x 5/8"x 5-3/4" balsastick,and the 1/8"x
3/8"x 11-7/8"balsastick.
sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper asshown
on the plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
1/8"wide and have a rounded shape. (Donot sand toa sharp
edge).Sand the bottom edge to a rounded shape. Sand the
leadingedge toa "V-shape" asshown on the plan.
8.Hold the finandrudder together and mark the fintip
2.Cut the 1/8"x 3/8"x 11-7/8"balsastick into 5 pieces
havinglengthsof: 2-7/8",2-7/8", 1-5/8",1-5/8"and2-3/4".
The 2-3/4" length is the rudderend.The remainingpieces
arethe elevator ends.
at the rudder trailing edge.Cut off the fintip and sand it to
match the rudder asshown onthe plan.
9.If you are buildinga''taildragger'', check the plans
and mark the locationofthe tailgearon the rudder. Drilla
6

7/64"hole inthe rudder,and groove the rudder leading edge
to accept the tailgear wire and the nylontailgear bearing.
DONOT GLUEYET! (The holeisdrilled slightlyoversize
toallow for positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve"
around the wire).
6.Sand both sidesofthe elevators to a taperasshown
onthe plans. The trailing edge should end up approximately
1/8"wide and have a rounded shape (donot sandtoa sharp
edge).Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" asshownon the
plan.
7.Temporarily tapetheelevators tothe stab,providing
1/16"clearance between the elevator end and the stab tip.
BUILDTHE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATORS
1.Findthefollowingparts:3/8"balsastabfront,stab
rear and elevators. You'llalso need the 3/8"x 5/8"x 11"
balsa stab tipstock, the 1/8"elevator ends thatyouprevi-
ously cut, and the 1/8"wire elevator joiner.
2.Gluethestab front to the stab rear. Then glueon
the stab tips. Sand thefrontofthe stab tips to blendwiththe
stab.
3.Glue the elevator ends to the elevators and sand to
blend.
8.Lay the 1/8"wireelevator joiner in place on the
elevators and mark its outline using a fine point fell-tip pen.
4.Sand both sides ofthe stab smooth, then sand the
leading edge and lips toa rounded shape. (Leave the center
portion of the LE square). Draw a centerline along the
trailing edgeofthe stab to mark the hinge line.
9.Accurately drill holes in the elevators for the 1/8"
wirejoiner. Begin by drilling a 1/16"or 5/64"pilot hole, then
drill the final hole to a depth of 7/8"witha 9/64"drill bit.
(Thehole isdrilled slightly oversize toallow for positioning,
and tocreatea hard epoxy "sleeve"around the wire).
tors.
5.Draw a centerline all around the edgesofthe eleva-10.Using an Xacto knife,sharpen the inside ofone end
ofa 1/8"diameter brass tube and use it tocut groovesin the
7

leading edge ofthe elevators to accept the joiner wire.
CAUTION!!!: You must useextreme care
when cutting hinge slotswith an Xacto knife, to
avoid cutting yourself! If the balsa part breaks
while you are pushing onthe knife, the blade could
gointo your hand before you know it! A good
precaution is towear leather gloves and always cut
away from your hand while performing the follow-
ingsteps.
2.Cut the hingeslotson the accurate centerlines
11.Roughen thejoiner wire with coarse sandpaper, then
clean the wire thoroughly with alcoholtoremove any oily
residue.
12.Trial fitthejoiner wire into the elevators, then glue
which you previously drew, using an Xacto knifeora
slotting forkand slotting hook. The recommended procedure
for cuttinghinge slotswithan Xacto knifeisgiven below.
A.Begin by carefullycutting a very shallowslitin the
trailing edge at the hingelocation. This first cutistoes-
tablish your cut in the rightplace, soconcentrate on
staying on the centerline and don't cut toodeep!
B.Make three orfour more cuts in the sameline,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood.
Continue this processwhile''wiggling'' the knifehandle
back and forth untilthe blade has reached the proper
depth for the hinge.
C.Trial fitthe hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficulttopushin,re-insert the knifeand move it back
and forth inthe slota few times toenlarge the slot
it in using 5-minuteor 30-minute epoxy. Work plenty of
epoxy intothe holes witha toothpick, then lay the elevator
leading edges along a straightedge to insureperfect align-
ment.
by foldingthem back and forth several times.
3. IMPORTANT! Condition or"break-in" thehinges
4.Insert the hinges into the slots and trialfittherudder
and elevators in place on the finand stab. Donot glue the
hinges untilafter you have covered the model.
INSTALL THE HINGES (Donotglue)
NOTE: One-piecemolded polypropylene hinges aresup-
plied in this kit. If you choose to use thesehinges orthe
"pinned"-type hinges, you may cutthe hinge slotsat this
time. However, ifyou choose to usetheone-piece hinges that
arepapercovered forCA glue installation, you may waituntil
after covering before cuttingthe hingeslots.
1.Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the finTE and
transfer the marks over to the fin.Place the elevators against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab. Note:
Heavy dutyhingesshould beused on the rudder if you are
building a taildragger.
WING
NOTE: The followinginstructions explain how tobuild the
wingon a flatsurface, directly on the plans. An alternate
method is to useaGreatPlanes Wing Jig(available from your
localhobby dealer). Many expert modelers prefer touse a
wingjigfor highperformance airplanes, asit helps toinsure
astraight, warp-free wing,especially if you do not have a
workbench or buildingboardthat is perfectly flat. If you
choose to use the Wing Jig,please read the instructions that
areincluded with the jig before beginning.
8

BUILD THE WING PANELS NOTE: If youwill beinstallinga retractable landing gear,
disregard Steps 6 and 7.
NOTE: It willbe helpfulto buildthe wing on a piece of
"Celotex" or other semi-soft (and flat) surface, into which
you may easily stick pins to firmlyhold down the wing parts
while building,toavoid warps.
1.Tapethe plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wingdrawing with waxed paper (soyouwon'tglue the
wingtotheplan!). NOTE; Ifyourworkspaceislimited,you
may cutthe left and rightwing half drawings apart.
6.Note that the wing plan shows two alternate loca-
tions for the mainlanding gear blocks. Note also that Ribs
W-2, W-3 and W-4 havepartialcutouts for each ofthe two
locations. Ifyou arebuildingyourplaneasa taildragger,cut
out the front notches in these ribs. If youarebuildingyour
plane witha tricycle gear, cutout the rear notches. (IfyouI
|willbeinstallingretracts, do notcutout any ofthe notches).
7.Glue the die-cut 1/16"plylanding gear doublers to
2.The shaped and notched wingleading edges (LE)
andtrailingedges (TE)arefastened togetherby thinstripsof
balsa. Separate them by foldinguntilthebalsabreaks. Sand
away the excess balsa that remainsalong the edges after
breaking them apart, usinga T-bar with100-gritsandpaper.
3.Before using the 1/4"x 1/2"x 30"hard balsa spars,
ribsW-2, W-3 and W-4. Be sure to glue them to the correct
sideofthe ribs, asshown on the plan (make a rightand a left
set).Sand the doublers even withthe edge of the ribs.
8.Preparetheleadingedgesheetingasfollows: Edge
glue the 3/32"x 1"x 13"balsa sheetstothe 3/32"x 3"x 30"
balsasheetsasshown here ...
examine them carefully forpossible imperfections. Look for
knots, soft spots,diagonal grain and anyother imperfections.
Ifpossible,position each spar sothe imperfections (ifany)are
on theouterhalfofthewingpanel (towardthetip),where they
will beleast affected by highstress. If the sparsare warped
slightly, try to"balance them out" by installing the warped
sparsin opposite directions (seesketch).
TWOWARPEDSPARSINSTALLED
THIS WAYWILLRESULTINA
STRAIGHTWING
Now measure and mark the balsa sheeting (seesketch
below), then cut the angle in the sheeting, cutting along a
metal straightedge for accuracy.
TWOWARPEDSPARSINSTALLED
THIS WAYWILL RESULTINA
WARPEDWING NOTE: Follow steps9 through 34 tobuild the RIGHT
wingpanel, then repeatthesestepstobuild theLEFTwing
panel
4.Find the four 1/8"x 1/2"x 14-1/2"balsa spar
doublers. Sand one end of each spar doubler to a taper as
shown in the "Wing Spar Detail" on the plan. Glue the spar
doublers tothe spars,and sand offany excessglue.
T-Pins
Spar
5.Carefully punchout allthe die-cut 3/32"balsa wing
ribs. Sand the edges slightlyto remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
9.Pin one of the sparstothe plan with the spar
doubler up and toward the root NOTE: The sparsarecut
slightly toolong. Center the spar on the plan soan equal
amount protrudes on both ends.
9

10.Place the ribs on the sparin their approximate
position, butdo not glue. NOTE: Make sure ribs W-2,
W-3 and W-4 are installed withthe LG notches down, and
W-lisinstalled withthe servo opening pointingup.
Cut first slot to
angle ofdihedral gauge
NOTCHED LEADING
EDGE
11.Examine the shaped, notched leading and trailing
edges.Notice thatthe notches at one end ofeach LE and TE
are only 2-5/8" apart. Theseare the notches for W-land
W-2. Also notice thatallnotches in the LE and TE are
vertical;however, ribW-lwillbe installed at a slight angle
using the Dihedral Gauge. Therefore, you should now
modifythe notch for W-lby cuttingitto the angle ofthe rib.
You may determine the approximate angle of the cutby
holdingthe Dihedral Gauge (DG) against the LE asshown
above.
CENTER L.E.VERTICALLY
ON FRONT OF RIBS
L.E.
16.Make sure the ribsarefullydown onthe plan and
12.Insert the rear ends of the ribs intothe notches in
the TE, then block up the TE withthe 1/4"balsa TE Jig
supplied. NOTE: The narrow end ofthe TE jig isat rib
W-ll.Pin the jigto the buildingsurface.
all ribs areinserted into the LE notches. Angle rib W-l
slightly usingthe dihedral gauge (DG). Glue W-1 tothe TE,
LE and bottom spar.Glue allotherribstothe LEand bottom
spar.
17.Gluethetopsparinplace,makingsureyoudonot
change the angle ofW-l.
18.Glue the pre-cut 3/32"balsavertical grain shear
up withthe plan.
13.Pin the TEtothe TEJig, making sure the ribs line
14.Glue ribs W-2 throughW-lltothe TE.(Apply
webs to the rearedgeof the sparsin all rib bays except
between ribsW-land W-2. NOTE: You may wish to trial
fit,mark, and trim each web before gluingin.NOTE: The
webs mustbesecurely glued tothe spars,but it isnot
necessary togluethe webs to the ribs.
glue sparingly, toavoid gluing the TE tothe TE Jig).
15.Insert the front ends ofthe ribs into the notches in
theLE.NOTE: Positionthe LE asshown at the top of the
nextcolumn.
19.You willnow make a "pocket" for the 1/16"ply
dihedral brace by installinga 3/32"balsa web 1/16"behind
the spars.Sand one of the 3/32"x 2-3/16"x 2-1/2"balsa
horizontal grain webs for a goodfitbetween W-1 and W-2.
(Seephoto at top of nextpage.)
10

Using the1/16"ply dihedralbrace as a temporary spacer,
glue the 3/32"web toW-l and W-2.
23.Preparethe 3/32"balsaleading edgesheetingby
sanding the frontedge to a slightbevel soit willfitsnugly
against the back of the leading edge.
3/32" Balsa
L.E. Sheeting
Bevel this
edge
20.Gluethedie-cut 1/8"plyfront web tothefront
21.Lightlysand the lopsof the ribs to blend withthe
NOTE: Inthenextsteps,maintain straightnessbykeeping
the wing down on the flat surface and on the TE Jig.
notched trailingedge; then glueone of the 3/32" x 1-3/4"x
30"balsa trailingedge sheets in place. NOTE: The edge of
the TEsheet maynot be exactly straight,butjustposition the
sheet soit slightlyoverlaps the TE,and any overlap can be
sanded off later.
NOTE: Itwillbehelpfultohave the followingitems handy
for the nextstep...thinCA, thick CA, a wet cloth, masking
tapeand T-pins. Read through the followingstepand go
through a "dry run"before actuallygluing.
24.Position the leading edge sheeting at the rear edge
ofthe notched LE sothere isan equal amountprotruding on
both endsof the wing. Using thin CA, glue the front(beveled)
edge ofthe leading edge sheeting to the back edge of the
leading edge. Now wet the top surface ofthe sheeting soit
willbend easier. Applythick CA glue to the top edge of the
ribs and to the fronthalfof the spar,then immediately bend
the sheeting down onto the ribsand spar. Hold the sheeting
down withmaskingtape, pinsand your hands untilthe glue
has set.
edge of the spars between ribs W-1 and W-2.
22.Before applyingtheleading edge sheeting in the
next step, use yourT-bar to lightlysand off the edges of the
shearwebs and smoothly blend the ribs tothe spar.
25.Using the 3/32"x 3"x 8-13/16"balsa sheets, glue
the top center section sheetingin place as shown on the plan.
(Use the scraps trimmed from the LE sheeting for the aft
pieces).
11

NOTE: If you are installing retracts, disregard steps 26
through 29.
26.Remove the wingfrom the buildingboardand
trialfitthelonggroovedhardwood LG blockintothenotches
inribsW-2,W-3 and W-4 (seethelandinggeardetaildrawing
on the wingplan for proper positioning). File the notches if
necessary for a goodfit.Now use epoxy tosecurely gluethe
block in place.
27.Epoxy the 7/16"x 5/8"x 7/8"hardwood block to
Photo of finished wing with retract mechanism removed.
NOTE: Ifyou willbeinstalling retracts, now is the time to
glue in the 1/16"ply die-cut rib doublers to the frontportion
ofribs W-3 and W-4. (Makesurethe frontribdoublers areon
the outboard side ofW-3 and the inboard side ofW-4). This
isalso the time to install the 1/4"x 13/16"x 2-11/16"ply
retract mountingrails on the bottom ofthe wing,in the
location shown onthe plan. Lockand strengthen the joints
between the 1/4"ply rails and the 1/16"plyrib doublers by
gluing1/4"balsa triangle stocktothese joints. You should
also now do some planning and trialfitting of the retract and
pushrod, customizing the installation asnecessary[to|
accommodate yourretracts. Installing retracts requires
carefulplanninganda lotoftrial fitting: therefore, you should
take the time now to plan outyour installation.
the LG block and to the 1/16"plydoubler on ribW-2, as
shown on the plan and in the photo, then epoxy the small
hardwood block tothe other end ofthe LG block and to the
1/16"ply doubler on rib W-4.
31.With the wingupside down, again use the TEjig
to support the TE.Then install the bottom TEsheeting, LE
sheeting and Center Sectionsheeting, cuttingand fittingthe
sheeting around the LG block asnecessary.IMPORTANT
NOTE: To insure a straightwing, you must pin orweight
the TE securely down on the TE jig while the bottom
sheeting is glued in place!
block and the 7/8"block. Line up the drill soyou are drilling
straight down throughthe middleof the 7/8"block.
28.Drilla 5/32"hole down throughthe grooved LG
29.Trial fitthe 5/32"diameter main landing gear 32.From the 3/32"x 3/8"x 30"balsasticks, cut and
wire intothe landinggear block at thistime.Cutor filethe
groove and hole in the landinggear block asnecessary for a
goodfit
glue cap strips to all exposed ribs, top and bottom. HINT:
Foreasier positioning ofthe cap strips, first mark the location
ofeach rib on the LE and TEsheeting.
30.Using a razor sawand a sanding block, carefully
cutoff and sand all excesssheeting, spars,LE and TE even
with W-l and W-ll.
33.Trim the sheeting flushwithribsW-l and W-ll
and sand theentire wingpanel smooth. Sand the leadingedge
to smoothly blend withthe LE sheeting (seethe note onthe
following page).
12

IMPORTANT: The shape ofthe leading edge
willaffectthe way thisairplane performs snap rolls
and spins. A blunt,roundedleading edge will
"soften" the stall, making the plane very docile
whenflyingslowly,enablingittoflarenose-high for
very slow landings; however, this may cause the
plane to bea little sluggish whentryingto enter a
snap roll or spin.A sharper leading edge willhelp
the plane enter snap roll and spin maneuversmore
crisply, whilesacrificing onlya littleof the low
speedstability.The leading edge has been approxi-
mately pre-shaped to the sharper cross-section, so
try to maintainthe same LE radius when sanding to
blend withthe LE sheeting. To avoid tipstalls,
make sure the leading edges ofboth wing panels
have the same shape.
NOTE: 30-minuteepoxyisstronglyrecommendedforthe
wingjoining process.
3.Mix up a batch of30-minute epoxy and pushsome
34.Mark and cutouta 1/16"slot inW-ljustbehind
the spars, for the dihedral brace.
theleft wingpanel.
into the dihedral brace slots.Smear epoxy on the spar ends,
and on both sides of the 1/16"plydihedral brace.Slide the
dihedral brace in place, push the wingpanels together and
immediately proceedtothe next step.
35.Now go back and repeatSteps 9 through34to build
4. With the wingtips blocked up1-1/8inch,carefully
JOIN THE WING PANELS
align the LE and TEof both wingpanels at the center and,
whileholdingthem incorrectalignment,apply thin CA glue
to "lock'' thepanels together. DonotapplyCAgluetoany
area thatis already coated with epoxy. Allowthe epoxy to
fullyharden before disturbing the wing.
NOTE:Read steps1 through 4, then make a "dryrun"
through these steps before actually proceeding. 5.Sand the wingjointsmooth all around.
1.Lay a piece ofwaxed paper down and place the two
wing panels, rightside up,sothatthe W-lribs are together.
Using the 1-1/8"x 1-9/16"x 9-3/4" balsa wingtipblocks,
block up both wingtips1-1/8-inch. Sand the wingpanels at
the center sothey willfittogether without a gap. INSTALL AILERON TORQUE RODS
2.Trial fitthe 1/16"plydihedralbrace to make sure
itwillreadilyslideintoplace. (Thephoto for thisstep is atthe
topofthe next column). 1.Roughen the short end ofthe aileron torquerods
with100-gritsandpaper, and file the sameend toa wedge
shape.(Seesketch on nextpage).
13

File end to
wedge shape
piecesin place with epoxy. HINT: Usemasking tapetohold
these pieces to the wing TE,toaidin correct positioning.
SAND "FLATS" ON LE AND TE
2.Roughen the surface oftheplasticbearingtubes
with 100-gritsandpaper.
3.Cleanthe torquerodsandbearingtubeswith alco-
1.Study the wing plan near the wing centerline. Note
that the center portion ofthe LE and TEmust besandedflat.
hol.
4. Find the two grooved,taperedbalsacentertrailing
edge pieces.Lay them on the plan, mark and cutthem offto
match the plan for length and angle at the centerline.
2.Sand approximately 5/32"into the LE at the center-
line, and approximately 3/32"into the TEat the centerline.
(The flats willend up approximately 4-1/2" wide at the LE,
and 2"wide at the TE).
5.Trial fitthe torque rodsinto the center TEpieces.
Determine from the plan where tocutthe clearance notches,
whichwill permit the torque rodhorns to travel freely. Also
cutsmall clearance notches in the wingTE.Note: The
torquerodhorns must exit the TOP ofthe wing!
FIBERGLASS THE CENTER SECTION
6.Slide theplastic bearings toward the threaded end of
the torque rods, then use a toothpick to apply a small amount
of petroleum jellytothe ends of the plastic tubes (to help
prevent glue from getting inside and locking up the torque
rods).
7.Use 5-minuteepoxy or thick CA toglue the plastic
bearing tubes intothe grooves in the center TEpieces.Wipe
off any excess glueand allow it to harden.
NOTE; Because ofthe high stressesin the center ofthis
wing, Fiberglass reinforcement is REQUIRED. Pleasedo
notomit this important section!
NOTE:If you have previous experience with applying
fiberglass, feel free touse your favorite method, providing
that itresults in a strong bond between the glass cloth and the
wood. If this isyour first time, we offer the following
suggested method, which isthe fastest and easiestwe have
seen.
8.Trial fitthe trailingedge / torque rod assemblies
onto the wingtrailingedge. Sand the center trailingedge
piecesslightlywhere they join,for a goodfit.Gluethese
1.Make location marks for the fiberglass reinforce-
ment cloth,2"eachway from the wing centerline.
14

2. Trialfitthe 4" widefiberglassclothinplace. You 9.Afterthe gluehas set,trim the excess cloth at the
can use a scissors or a paper punchto cutholes in the glass
cloth for the aileron torque rodhorns. trailingedge witha sharp Xacto knifefollowed by a sanding
block.
3.Wrap smallpieces of masking tape around the 10.Carefully sand the edgesof the glass cloth witha T-
threaded portion of theaileron torque rods toprotect them
from the spray adhesivein the nextstep.
4. Spray a verylightmistof 3M "77"Spray Adhesive
on the centersection inthearea tobe glassed. Hold thespray
can at least 12"awayfrom thesurfacewhendoingthisto
avoida heavybuildup.The purpose of thisis onlyto givethe
wood a little"tackiness". If youapplyloomuchspray it
could resultina poor gluebond. Allowthe spray todry for
5minutesbefore proceeding to Step 5.
barsander with80or 100-grit sandpaper. Also, lightlysand
the surfaceof the glass cloth witha piece of sandpaper held
in yourfingersto removeanyroughspots. WARNING:
When sanding fiberglass, wear a dust mask to avoid
breathing airborne glass fibers.
INSTALL WING TIPS
NOTE: The wingtipswillbe carved from the 1-1/8"x
1-9/16"x 9-3/4" balsa blocks.
1.Draw a centerline on the ends ofthe wingand on the
5.Beginningat thetrailingedge, laytheglass tape in
place on thewing.Gentlypress the cloth in place, working
outallthe wrinkles.The "77"spray adhesive shouldhold
the cloth downto the surface,butwillpermityouto liftand
reposition theclothifyoumake a mistake.Keep working
forward alongthetop of the wing,around the leadingedge,
andalongthebottomofthe wing,endingatthetrailingedge.
Do notattemptto wrapthe glass cloth around the trailing
edge.
wing tipblocks.
2.Securelygluea wingtipblock to the leftend of the
wing,andtack gluea wingtipblock to the rightend of the
wing,liningupthecenterlinesyoupreviouslydrew.You will
later break onlythe rightlip loose and hollow itout.
6.Workingoutdoorsor in a very well-ventilatedarea
applythinCA glueto the glass cloth. Beginby runninga
bead of gluedown the centerof the glass cloth strip,then
continueapplyingthe glueinlinesuntilall the clothhas been
secured. RunthethinCA out1/4"beyond the edges of the
glass clothto helpprotect thebalsa sheetingwhensanding
later.WARNING:Thisoperationproducesalargerthan
normalquantityofCAfumes,soadequate ventilationisa
must!
7.Inspectthesurfaceoftheglass cloth.Ifanyareasare
notglueddown,applya couplemore drops of CA glueand
press down witha piece of waxed paper untilthe gluesets.3.Cut,carve and sand thewingtipsto theappropriate
8.Tomake sure the glass cloth is fully"wetted out"
and bonded to thebalsa, youmayapplymore thinCA, a few
drops ata time,and spread itoutwitha piece ofwaxed paper.
shapeas shownon the plan.HINT;Use 50-grit sandpaper
and a sharp wood chiselor razor plane tospeedupthis
operation. NOTE: Leave the tipsoversize in the areaof the
ailerons, for now.
15

4.Cuttherightwingtiploosefrom the wingand use
aDremel Moto Tooltohollow outthe wingtip.(This will
help to compensate for the weight of the engine head and
muffler).
5.Now securely gluethe rightwingtip in place.
Cut 2"offAileronstock
and glue permanently to TE
6.Cut2" off one end of the taperedailerons and glue
the2"piecespermanentlytothetrailingedgeasshown inthe
sketch. This moves the aileron awayfrom the turbulence
causedbythetipvortex.Makesure you carefullylineupthis
piece withthetop and bottom surfaces of the wing.
tomakeroom forthetorquerodbearings. Trialfittheailerons
ontothetorque rods and cutor fileasnecessary untilthey fit.
6.Lay the ailerons on the planand mark thehinge
locationson theailerons.Use twohingesnearthetips. Place
the aileronsagainst the wing TE and transfer the marks over
tothe wing.
7. Cutthe hinge slots in theaileronsand wingTEusing
an Xacto knifeor hingeslottingtool.
8. IMPORTANT! Condition or"break-in"the hinges
INSTALL AILERONS
NOTE: Donotgluetheaileronhingesuntilafteryourmodel
has been covered.
by foldingthem back and forthseveral times,
"V"-shapeas shown on the wingribdetail drawing.
9.Sand the leading edge ofthe ailerons tothe same
1.Draw an accuratecenterlinealong the LE of the
tapered balsa ailerons and the wingTE,
2.Check thelengthofyourailerons againstthe actual
10.Insert thehingesinto the slotsand trial fitthe
aileronsin place on thewing.Donotgluethe hinges until
after you have covered the wing.
aileron openingsand trimthe ailerons asnecessary. You
shouldprovide approximately 1/16"gap at eachend of the
ailerons. Thereshouldbenohingegap!
11.Now isagoodlimeto finishthewingtips.Tapethe
aileronson intheneutralposition, and sandthe wingtips to
blend withthe ailerons.
INSTALL WING DOWELS
3.Lay the aileronsinplace inthe openings, withthe
torque rods restingon lop of theailerons. Mark the torque
rodlocations onthe topofthe ailerons.
4. Drill a 7/64"hole in the ailerons at thetorque rod
locations, startingatthe leadingedge centerlineand drilling
straight into theproper depth. (The hole is drilled slightly
oversize to allowfor positioning, and tocreatea hard epoxy
"sleeve"around the wire).
5.Use the sharpened 1/8"diameter brass tube tocuta
groove in the leading edgeofthe ailerons to accept the
torquerods. Cutthesegroovesalittlelargeratthebeginning,
1. Mark a horizontalcenterlineon the flatwhichyou
sandedon the wingLE. Alsomarka verticalcenterlineonthe
die-cut 1/8"plyformerF-2A (theWingDowel Plate).
16

2.Holding the die-cut 1/8"balsa F-2A on the leading
edge,in the exact center of the wing,mark the dowel
locations through the dowel plate holes.
3.Sand the wing boltplateflush with thewing TE.
FILLLANDING GEAR SLOTS
1.Temporarily installthe main LG wires.
2.Check the plan for the locationofthe nylon landing
gearstrapsandtemporarily installthem, using#2x3/8 sheet
metal screws.
#2X3/8"SHEET
METAL SCREW
NYLONLANDING
GEAR STRAP
3.Remove F-2A and double check tomake sure the
dowel locations are both the same distance from the wing
center joint
4.It is importantthatyou now drill the dowel holes
accurately! To insureaccurately positioned holes, begin by
drillingsmall (1/8") holes in the center of the marked loca-
tions. Then graduallyincrease drillbitsizes untilyou have
finallydrilled the holes to 1/4"diameter.The finalholes you
drillmustextend 3-3/4"intothewingto penetrate the front
webs. NOTE: Try todrillstraightin.
5.Sand oneend ofeach wing dowel to a rounded or
pointed shape. This is the end that will beinserted. Do not
sand the other end atthistime. notched LG blocks and sandflush with the surface of the
wing. This will aidincovering later.
6.Trial fitthe dowels into the dowel holes, and trial fit
thedowel plate over the dowels. Ifthe dowels fittoo tightly,
you mayenlarge the holes slightlyusinga roundfile,or you
may sand the dowels downslightly.Do notgluethe dowels
inplace at thislime.
NOTE:Hardware for retract installation isnot included in
INSTALL RETRACTS (OPTIONAL)
the kit
INSTALL WING BOLT PLATE
Iinstallation instructions provided with your retracts, and plan
1.Study the retractdrawings onthe plan. and the
1.Mark a centerline on the die-cut 1/16"x 3-15/32"x
your retract installationbeforeproceeding,
1-5/8"ply wing bolt plate.
2.Position the wingboll plate on thebottom of the
wing,and lineit upwiththe wingTEand centerline.Glue it
in place.
Photo showsfinished wing with retract installed.
2.Cut an opening in the bottom LEsheeting for the
17

retract mechanism. Cuta clearance slotin rib W-3 for the LG
wire. Cut an opening in the bottom LE sheet and in rib W-2
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
for the wheel well.
3.lEnclose the wheel well by runningvertical grain
1/16"balsabetween the bottom and top sheeting; or you may
make the wheel well froman appropriately-sized styrofoam
cup.
ofthe spars)for your retract servo, and bend and fita pushrod
torunbetween the servoand the retract mechanism. Runthe
pushrodjustunder the top LE sheeting untilitpassesover the
wheel well, then make two 90-degreebendsand connect it to
PREPARE FUSE SIDES
1.Layoneofthe shaped3/16"balsafuselagesidesin
place onthe fuselage plan side view. Carefully position the
fusesidesothefrontedgelinesup with thefrontofF-1 onthe
plan. Tapeorpin the fuse side soit can't move. NOTE: The
fusesidemay be alittle longerat therearthan indicatedby the
plan. This isasit should be.
the retract mechanism.
5.Temporarily mountyourretractservoandtrial fitall
retract components. Testthe operation of your retracts
making surethey operate freely and reliably. Also make sure
2.Carefully position the die-cut 3/16"balsalower
front fuse side sothe rear edgelines up with the frontofthe
wingsaddle opening on theplan (the rear edgeofF-2A). You
may have tolightly sand the top edgeof the die-cut 3/16"
balsafor a goodfitagainst the bottom edge of the fuse side.
Edge glue the lower frontfuse side to the fuse side.NOTE:
Usewaxed paper under the balsato avoid gluingto the plan.
they "lock" in boththe upanddownpositions.
3.Carefully position the die-cut 3/16"balsalower
rear fuse side sothe vertical front edgelines up with the rear
ofthe wingsaddleopening onthe plan (the frontedge of
F-4).Edgeglue the lower rearfuse sidetothe fuse side.
Photoshows finished wingwith retract installed.
6.Blend the bottom sheeting asneatly aspossible
around the retracts.
4. Trim and sand off the die-cut "bumps" from the
frontand rear portion of the lower rearfuse side,blending
with the upper fuse side.
1. Usepolyesterresin or30-minute epoxy thinned with
alcoholtofuelproof the entireretract well area.
5.Sandthe fuse sidesmooth on both sidesusing a T-
bar and 100-gritsandpaper, then repeatthe abovestepsto
make the other fuse side.
18

the fourdie-cut 1/8"plyfirewallspacers. Note that the
spacersaremarked "2L", "2R". "4L", and "4R".
Use the #2 firewall spacersif you willbe install-
ing a 2-cycle engine such asthe OSMax 61SF.
Use the #4 firewall spacers if you will be install-
ing a small 4-cycle engine, such asthe OSFS70
Surpass.
If you will be installing a larger (longer) 4-cycle
engine, suchasthe OSFS91Surpass, do not use any
firewall spacer on the rightside, and use the 1/8"x
1/8"x 3-5/8"hardwood stickasa firewall spaceron the
leftside.
PLANITOUT!Itisimportant that the fusedoubler and fuse
sideline up along the top edge and the front ofthe wing
opening. While holding in position, apply thin CA glue
around all the notches and lightening holes, then around the
edges.Make sure you apply sufficientglue soit flows under
the doubler toproduce a strong bond. NOTE: The narrow
and wide firewall spacerswill automatically position the
firewall toresult in 2-degreesofright engine thrust.
9.Glue the taperedbalsatail filler tothe aft end ofone
of the fuse sidesand sandit even with the top and bottom
edges.
6.Find the two die-cut 1/8"ply fuselage doublers and
10.From the 1/4"balsatriangle, cut piecestofitbe-
7.Edge gluethe appropriate firewallspacers tothe
frontedge ofthe fuselage doublers. Note that the spacers are
not the same size.They willautomatically setthe engine at
the required 2-degrees rightthrust.
tween the tail filler and the rear ofF-4, alongthe bottom
insideof both fuse sides.Glue in place.
11.Sand the aft ends ofthe balsatriangle to a taper,
which willpermitthe fuse sidestobepulled togetherat theaft
end. NOTE: The taper shown in the photo isapproximate
and may have to bemodified during assembly.
8.Carefully position the fuselage doublers on the fuse
sides,makingaRIGHTandaLEFTside. Thedoublerwith
the smallerfirewallspacer goeson the rightfuselage side ..
ASSEMBLE LOWER FUSELAGE
1.Tapethe fuselage plan to your workbench and cover
the FuseBottom View with waxed paper.
NOTE:The fuselage isassembledupside down.
2.Pin ortackglue (using 3M "77"Spray Adhesive)
the 1/8"die-cutbalsa stab baseaccurately in position on the
plan. Align the frontedgeofthe stab basewith the line on the
plan.
19

3.Accurately position the two pre-cut 1/4"x 1/2"balsa
cross-braces on the plan, and pinthem in place behind F-4
and F-5. Note: The front cross-brace (atF-4)extends only
out to the doublers.
the plan and hold it securelyin placewith pins, tapeor
weights (oryou may spray it lightly with 3M "77"spray
adhesive, to hold it firmly but temporarily down on the plan).
7.Trialfit(donot glue) the following partstogether
Fusetop, fuse sides,die-cut 1/8"ply F-2. F-3, F-4 and the
die-cut 1/8"ply Chin Block Base.Check the fitofall parts
and trim, file orsandasnecessaryfor a goodfit. Pull the aft
ends together and re-sand the 1/4"triangles if necessary.
4. Trial fitformers F-4and F-5 to the frontofthe Cross-
braces (the formers areupside down), and sand the edges of
theformers slightlytomatchtheangleofthe fusesides. Glue
the formers to the cross-braces, making sure that each
former is installed perpendicular tothe building surface.
8.Once you have everything fitting properly, re-as-
semble the above parts, using clamps, pins. tape and weights
toholdeverything togetherand flaton the workbench. Make
sureF-2 is pushed asfar forward aspossible,and F-4 is
pushed asfar aft aspossible.There should bewaxed paper
underneath to prevent gluing the fuse to the plan. Apply thin
CA glue tothe joints, then follow with thick CA glue in any
joints that arenot tight fitting.
5,Insert F-6 upside down in the rear of the slot in the
stab base.Sand the edgesof F-6slightly to match the angle
ofthe fusesides.AlignF-6perpendiculartothestabbaseand
glueit in place.
glue, and toprovide a flat surface for the sheeting.
9.Sand the bottom ofthe fuse toremove any excess
6.Accurately position the 1/8"die-cut plyfuse top on
piecesof cross-grain sheeting tothe bottom ofthe fuse,
beginning at the frontofF-4and runningtothe aftend ofthe
fuse.
11.Now you may remove the fuselage from the work
surface and sand theedgesofthe bottomsheetingflush with
the fuse sides.
20