GREAT PLANES PT-40 User manual

Instruction Book
Welcome to theWorld ofRadio ControlModel Airplanes!
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION
BOOKLET FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERN-
INGTHE BUILDING AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
WARNING!
This R/Ckit and the model you willbuild is not a toy!Itis capable of serious
bodily harm and property damage. ITISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS
ALONE — to build this kitcorrectly, properly installall R/Ccomponents and flying
gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and flyit only withexperi-
enced, competent help in accordance withall safetystandards and common
sense as set down in the Academy of Model AeronauticsSafetyCode. Itis sug-
gested that you jointhe AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to
flythismodel. IFYOU AREJUST STARTING R/CMODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCALHOBBYSHOPORWRITETOTHEACADEMYOFMODELAERONAUTICS
TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR INYOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN47302-9252
[phone]
POBOX 788URBANA ILLINOIS61801

TABLE OF CONTENTS
GENERAL COMMENTS ....................2
BUILDING PRECAUTIONS .................3
GLUES ..................................3
BUILDING HINTS .........................4
ITEMS NEEDED ..........................4
TOOLS OR SUPPLIES NEEDED .............4
SPECIAL NOTE ON ENGINES ..............4
PARTS IDENTIFICATION DRAWINGS 5
GET READY TO BUILD ....................6
BUILD THE FUSELAGE SIDES .............7
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE ...............8
INSTALL THE WINDSHIELD AND HATCH ..10
MOUNT THE ENGINE BEAMS AND
BREAKAWAY PLATES .................... 11
INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR ............12
PREPARE THE NOSE GEAR ...............12
CUT THE NOSE GEAR PUSHROD OPENING . 12
CUT THE PUSHROD EXIT SLOTSFOR THE
RUDDER AND ELEVATOR ................ 13
BUILD AND INSTALL THE
"TAIL FEATHERS" .......................13
MAKE THE HINGES ......................14
MARK THE HINGE LOCATIONS ...........14
CUT THE HINGE SLOTS..................14
MOUNT THE STAB ON THE FUSE .........14
MOUNT THE FIN TO THE STAB ...........15
BUILD THE WING PANELS ...............16
JOIN THE WING PANELS .................18
INSTALL THE CENTER RIBS AND
BOTTOM SHEETING .....................19
INSTALL TRAILING EDGE, AILERONS AND
TORQUE RODS (WING B ONLY) ...........20
INSTALL THE WING TIPS .................21
SAND THE WING SMOOTH ...............22
INSTALL THE WING PLATES ..............22
TRIAL FIT THE WING IN THE SADDLE ....22
MOUNT THE ENGINE ....................23
INSTALL THE SERVOS ...................24
INSTALL NYLON CONTROL HORNS .......25
PUSHRODS ..............................26
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY ....29
ADD THE FUSELAGE TOP ................29
SAND THE FUSELAGE ...................30
FUELPROOF THE ENGINE AND FUEL
TANK COMPARTMENTS .............
30
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING ....30
COVER THE STABILIZER .................30
COVER THE FIN, RUDDER ANDELEVATOR . 30
COVER THE FUSELAGE ..................30
COVER THE WING .......................31
ADD "WASHOUT" ATTHE WINGTIPS......31
FINAL ASSEMBLY .......................32
BALANCE YOUR MODEL .................34
FLYING .................................34
AMA SAFETY CODE .....................36
CHANGING FROM 3 TO4
CHANNEL VERSION ....................37
FLIGHT PROBLEMS CHART ...............38
GLOSSARY ..............................39
PARTS LIST.............................40
INSTALL TAPERED TRAILING EDGE
(WING A ONLY) .......................... 19
GENERAL COMMENTS
Congratulations onyour purchaseofGreat
Planes' PT40,the Perfect Trainer! You now ownthe
easiestbuilding, easiestflying trainer on themarket.
By following these instructions and by referring to
the plans, you will have a model you can be proud of
and onethat will fly, almost by itself!
Our line of R/C kits is the fastest growing and
we believe the finestin the nation. As a result of
intensive testing, combined withour years ofexperi-
ence, we know that a well built Great Planes'kit
will flyright. But that means:

1.You mustbuild the plane accordingto the plans
and instructions
2.You musttake time to buildstraight, true and
strong.
3.You must use a proper R/C radio that isin first
class condition, the correct sized engineand correct
components (fueltank,wheels, etc)throughout
your building process
4.You must properly installall R/C and other
components sothat the model operates properly on
the ground.
5.You must test the operation ofthe model before
the first and each successive flightto insure that all
equipment isoperating and you must make certain
that the model has remained structurally sound.
6You must fly the model only with competent
help from a well experienced R/C pilot ifyou are not
already an experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot
atthis time.
Note- We, asthe kit manufacturer, can provide
you with a top qualitykit and great instructions, but
ultimately the qualityand flyabilityofyour finished
model depends on how youbuild it,therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance ofyour
completed model, and no representations are expres-
sedor implied asto the performance or safety ofyour
completed model.
BUILDINGPRECAUTIONS
Keep in mindthat it isimpossible for us to
guide you specifically asto every possible matter that
might come upas you buildThe funand challenge
isto tackle the problem, using the plans and instruc-
tions for resources aswell asthe assistance and ad-
vice offellow builders and your local hobby dealer.
The plans are the basic guide to building Do
notalter ormodify the model asrepresented by
these plans Follow the step by step procedures given
inthe building instructions.
Invest in the proper tools for building Knives,
drills and bits, saws, rulers, pliers and screwdrivers
are buta few of the tools you willneed Check the
listoftools needed in this book and seek the advice
ofyour dealer.
Forbestresults, you should have suchcompo-
nents as the engine, tank and radio on hand asyou
build for fittingand installation purposes, it ismuch
more difficult,sometimes impossible, to do aproper
buildingjob when components are purchased and
fittingattempted after most ofthe model is com-
pleted Always have an eyeon installation ofthe
components you intend to use asyou build,take time
to thinkthrough and prepare forthe installation of
those components Don'thurry!Take your time to
create a well builtmodel that conforms to the plans
Build on a large, flat surface. Use waxed paper over
the part ofthe plans you are working on to prevent
glues from sticking to the plans Remember a careful
builder willbuild a warp-free, straight model that
will flyasit was designed to
Read and obey cautions, warnings and direc-
tions on such items asglues, paints and other mater-
ials These are oftenTOXIC to the humanbody in
terms ofbreathing and/or touch Be especially cauti-
ousofcyanoacrylate glues that dry almost instantly
and bond with great power (also knownas CAglues)
Theyrequire special care since they can be extremely
dangerous ifthey get into the eyesor on humanskin
Watch forventilation warnings and observe them
Keep small children and pets away from allbuilding
and finishingmaterials. Keepyour building area safe
and clean
We urge you to read through these instructions,
identify all the parts, markthem with their names,
letters or numbers and look over the planssoyou
become familiarwith what the model willlook like
and what the names ofthe differentparts are
Throughout the instructions we willbe referringto
the various parts ofthe model asthey are called out
on the plan There isa glossary in the back ofthese
instructions ifyou are unfamiliarwithany words or
part names. Refer toit for help.
Ifwhen you are identifying the parts you find
that a part ismissing or broken, please let us know
about it before you start building and we will correct
the problem
CONSTRUCTIONPROCEDURE
GLUES (ADHESIVES)
Ifyou look at the "ITEMS NEEDED"list you
will seethat we recommend only two basic types of
glue for buildingthe PT-40...CAglue and epoxy.
CA(cyanoacrylate) glues are great for model
building because they set fast Rather thanpinning
gluedjointstogether and waitingfor hours whilethe
glue dries, CAglues willharden ina few seconds
while you hold the parts together Thin CAruns
right into a good fittingJoint,soyou can assemble
the parts first, then apply thinCA ThickCAismore
like syrup and it will not harden untilyou press the
two parts together, squeezing the glue out to a thin
layer A related and very handyproduct is CAAc-
celerator spray(ZipKicker or Hot Shot), and is
used to instantly harden CAglue When using CA
glues make suretheparts fit well before gluing
because they don't give you a second chance
Ifyou need time to position glued pieces cor-
rectly or need extra strength, use epoxy glues Epoxy
isnormally used inthe firewall and engine mount
area and when gluing the two wingpanels together
Five minute epoxy (itstarts to harden in5 minutes)
isgreat for most applications Ifyou need longer time
use 15or 30minute epoxy You need not use large
amounts ofepoxy.Squeeze out the amounts ofepoxy

and hardener that yourparticular brand requires.
Forexample, some epoxies use equal amounts and
some use a 1 to 2 mixture . Mix these together. Coat
one piece with epoxy; squeegee the excessglue off
with scrap wood. The epoxy glue willwork better if
there isn't too much oozing out at the edges ofthe
glued piece. Wipe off any ofthis excessglue.
In any case, glue isnever a substitute for a
good-fitting joint; once the jointis formed, use a
minimumamount ofglue and wipe off the excess.
Clamp, pin or hold thejoint while the glue is drying.
Remember: Takeyourtime andfollow di-
rectionstoendupwith a well-built model that
is straightandtrue.
BUILDING HINTS
Your work area ideally should be large and com-
fortable enough for you to work without having to
puteverything away every night. (The kitchen table
isnot recommended!) The key to a straight fuselage
and warp-free wings isa straight, flatbuildingboard
orwork bench. Remember, your model is only as
straight asthe board you build on. Have all your
tools handy and your buildingwill gomuch easier.
Build overthe plans when instructed. Cover
the part ofthe plan you are using with waxed paper
soyou don't glue the model to the plans! If the parts
do not match the plansexactly, it isbecause the plans
have changed size with moisture in the air. Do not
be concerned about this. The parts were all cut to fit
each other. Use the plans asa guide.
Remember this: In order for your PT40to per-
form asit should it isyour responsibility to take your
time when buildingand to follow all the instructions
given. A careful builder will produce a model that is
straight, true and warp-free. A well builtmodel per-
forms bestand will flylike itwas designed to.So
take your time and enjoy!
Ifat all possible, get an experienced model buil-
der to look at your model duringthe construction
process. Itismucheasiertomakecorrectionsatthese
times.
Thebuilding instructions follow. Ifyou have
any questions about buildingor flyingthe PT40,
please call us at [phone]and we'll be glad to
help.
Itisa goodidea to obtain the followingitems
before you start buildingas you willneed to install
or test fitsome ofthem before assembly iscomplete.
Most ofthese items can be purchased from your local
hobby dealer.
ITEMSNEEDED:
1-10x 6 Propeller or Proper Size for Your En-
gine
1-2-1/4"Spinner or Acorn Type Prop Nut
2-2 1/2"or2-3/4" Main Wheels
1-2-1/4"or2-1/2" NoseWheel
6-5/32"Wheel Collars
1-6 or 8 oz. Fuel Tank
1/4pound- #64 Rubber Bands
Thin Cyanoacrylate Glue, 2 oz.
Thick Cyanoacrylate Glue, 1 oz.
5Minute Epoxy, 2.5 oz.
15or 30 minuteepoxy,2.5oz.
Wing Seating Tape
Balancing Weights
Iron-On Covering Material (TopFlite Super
MonoKote Recommended)
Foam Rubber (For Cushioning Radio Receiver
and Battery)
Radio System (3 or4 Channel)
Engine (.25-.40 2-Cycle or.30to .454-Cycle)
Fuel Line, medium size
Chicken Stick or Electric Starter
Glow Plug Clip
Glow Plug Battery
TOOLS OR SUPPLIES NEEDED:
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits 3/16",5/64",3/32",1/8",3/16",7/32",5/16")
Sanding Block orT-Bar
Sealing Iron
Heat Gun
Hobby Saw(X-ActoRazor Saw)
X-Acto Knife,#11Blades
Pliers
ScrewDriver
10ft.-KiteString or Strong Thread
T-Pins
Straightedge
MaskingTape
Sandpaper, Coarse (100grit) and fine(220 grit)
Waxed Paper
BalsaFiller
Note:As with any other hobby, you may go"all
out" if you choose by purchasing allsorts ofspecial
hobby tools and accessories (there are hundredsavail-
able). However, mostofthePT40 parts are accurately
pre-cut soyou can build it withouta lot of special
tools. Some of the more advanced R/C kitsrequire
the builderto do a lot more cuttingand sanding, so
you may eventually wantto equip your workshop
with tools like a Dremel Moto Tool, jigsaw, small
table saw,disk/belt sander, small drillpress, small
band saw,etc.,but these are not necessary now.
SPECIAL NOTE ON ENGINES
Choosethe right sizedengine for the PT40 as
indicated here. We recommend a .25to .40two cycle
engine or a .30to .45fourcycle engine. Toolarge or
too small an engine can result inan unsafeor poor
flyingmodel. Remember that a model engine is not
a"toy" buta device thatcan cause serious bodily
harm to you or others on theground orcauseharm
in the air if abused ormisused.

TYPES OFWOOD
HARDWARE
TAPERED
AILERONAND
TRAILINGEDGE
STOCK
#4x5/8 SCREW #2x3/8"SCREW 4-40x1" BOLT 5/32" COLLAR AILERON CLEVIS
#4x1/2" SCREW 6-32x3/16" SCREW 2-56 x 3/8" SCREWAILERONCLEVIS
CONNECTOR
PT40PARTS

GET READY TO BUILD
D1.Unrollthe plansheet. Re- roll it inside out to
make it lie flat.Note: The fuselage planisprinted
on Side 1 and the wingplanis printed on Side2.
D3.Punch out all the die cut parts excepting the
sheets stamped "A"and "B".If a part does not come
out easily, cut arounditwithan X-Acto knife.Mark
the die cut parts before punchingthem out.Also
saveanyscrapwooduntilyouarecompletelyfinished
building.Youwilluse some scraptobuildthemodel.
You willfindthat scrap wood is quitehandy to use
for lots ofthings, like spreading epoxy for instance.
D2.As you remove all parts from the box, use a felt
tip pen to writethe name or numberon each part.
Toidentifythe parts, compare them withthe plans
andwiththe die-cut parts patterns shown here:
DIE CUT PARTS PATTERNS
«
PT40W07 13PERKIT WINGRIBS 3/32x3x12BALSA
PT40F07 I PER KIT 1/8 x 3-7/8 x 123/4 PLY
FUSELAGEBOTTOM
C3
SERVO TRAY
PT40FIO 2 PER KIT1/8x 3-7/8 x 13-1/2PLY
LOCKPLATES |
\^STAB SADDLE DOUBLER /
F-l
J
1
PT40F05 I PER KIT 1/8 x 3-7/8 x 9-3/4 PLY PT40W15 1 PER KIT____1/8 x 4-1/4 x 11-1/2 PLY
D4. Separate the partsintofourgroups: 1-
FUSELAGE, 2- WING, 3-FIN & STABILIZER, 4-
HARDWARE
IMPORTANT: READ THIS BEFORE
STARTINGTOBUILD
The PT40 may bebuilt asa "3-Channel" or
"4-Channel" trainer.
In the 3-channel version, you control the rud-
der, elevator and throttle, and ituses "WingA"which
has a fixed(non-moving)trailingedge and a large
amount of dihedral. It requires a radio having 3 or
more channels.
WING"A"
MORE DIHEDRAL
The 3-Channel versionisthe easiesttobuild
and most stable; therefore,ifyou are a beginnerwe
strongly recommend that you buildyour PT40 as a
3-Channel airplanewith Wing A.
MOVEABLE AILERONS
LESS DIHEDRAL
i

The 4-Channel version has more ability to per-
form acrobatic maneuvers, but is more difficultto
build and itsself-recovery characteristics are not
quite as good. If you already have some R/C flying
experience and are ready to move up to an airplane
that ismore maneuverable, you may choose to build
your PT40 asa 4-Channel airplane with Wing B.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE SIDES
D1.Takethe two large1/8"balsa fuselage sides
and putthem together. Carefullyline them up along
the bottom edge and the front.Tape them together
witha few pieces of masking tape along the bottom
edge to prevent them from moving. Now examine the
other edges to make sure the two fuselage sides are
exactly thesame all around. Ifnot, use a T-bar sander
with 100grit sandpaper to lightly sand the edgesto
match.
D2. Now,with the tape still in place along the
bottom edge, let the two sides fallopen and write
"Rtinside" and "Left inside" as shown here.
D3.Tapethe fuselage plan toyour building sur-
face.
D4. Lay the right fuse (fuselage) side on the plan,
and carefullyposition it sothe bottom edge and the
nose line upwith the plan. Insert a few pins or tape
to hold it in place.
D5.Using the "locatorarrows",a straightedge
and a pen, draw six vertical lines on the fuse side as
shown.Presslightly to avoid damaging the balsa.
D8.Now draw lines on the left inside fuse side,
using the edge marks and a straight edge.
D6.Remove the fuse side from the plan and make
small marks on the top and bottom edges, where the
lines end.
D7.Put the two fuse sides together (inside to in-
side), and line them upcarefully. While holding them
together, transferthe edge marks overto the left fuse
side edges asshown here.
D9.Lay the large 1/8"ply fuse doubler on the right
inside fuse side and position it to line up at the nose
and bottom edge. The part ofthe doubler which is
behindthe L.G. platearea must be exactly 1/8"
above the bottom edge ofthe fuse side. Use a piece
of1/8"balsa (such as the "windshield" piece) to check
this spacing. When you are satisfied that the doubler
iscorrectly lined up, apply thinCA glue all around
the edges while holding the doubler in place. Use
enough glue to make sure it flows under the plywood
tomake a good bond.
D 10.Position the upper and lower "lockplates" and
thestab saddle doublers on the right fuse side, using
the vertical guidelines previously drawn. The upper
lockplatesand stab saddle doubler must beeven with
the top edge ofthe fuse side. Thethreelower
lockplates must bepositioned 1/8" above the bot-
tom edge ofthe fuse side. Use a piece of1/8"balsa
asa spacer to aid in correct positioning ofthe bottom
lockplates. Glue these parts in place with thin CA.
(Seephoto onnext page.)

D11.Notice thatthe1/8"balsafuseside hastwo
slightlyroundedcornersat thefrontof the"hatch"
area andat thefrontofthe "stab saddle" area. Using
an X-Acto knife,cutaway these rounded comers to
match thedoublers.
D15.Use one of the 3/8"ply engine beams asa
spacer to position the 1/4"balsa upper tripler. Move
the upper triplerforwardor back untilitlinesup
with the line you drew in Step 13.
D12.Turn thefuse side over andlay the 1/8"balsa
upper fuse side inplaceon thedoubler,liningup
the curved "windshield"edge. Applyglue allaround
the edges of thisupperfuseside.
D16.Remove the3/8" plyspacer, thenglue theupper
tripler in place with thin CAall around the edges.
D17.Glue the fuselage doubler, upper andlower
lock-plates, upperfuseside,stab saddledoublersand
the1/4"balsa triplersto theleft insidefuselageside.
Be sure to followthesame procedureas set forthin
steps 9-16whendoingso, butdon't make two Rt.
fuse sides!
D18.Drillor cut outthe 5/16"holes in thefusesides
for thewinghold-downdowels. Ifyou use a drill,lay
the fuse side on a wood block fora backingto drill
into, whichwillprevent thebalsafrom tearing.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
LI13.Draw a straightlineconnectingthefrontedge
ofthe frontslots in the fuse doubler.
D14.Lay the 1/4"balsa lower tripler inplace on
thefusedoubler, andlineitupwiththelinejust
drawnand the edge of the doublerGluethe lower
triplerinplacewiththinCAallaroundthe edges.
D1.Before assemblingthefuselage,makesure
thatthe followingparts are set outwithineasy reach:
both fuse sides withdoublersandtriplerssecurely
glued on; formers F-l throughF-6;1/8"plyfusebot-
tom; 3/8" plyL.G. (landinggear)plate;1/8"balsa
fuse bottom;thetapered balsa"fuse tail wedge" and
the six #62 rubberbands provided.

Note:In the next stepsyou will assemble the
fuselage without glue! The interlocking parts ena-
ble you to do this soyou can get everything together,
make sure the parts fitproperly, check forstraight-
nessand make adjustments if necessary. Then you
will glue everything together by applying thinCA.
D2.Make the "firewall" (Former F-l) by gluing
together thetwo 1/8"plywood parts which are marked
"F-l".Use5 minuteepoxyforthisjob. Aftertheepoxy
has hardened,drillfour1/8"holes at the marks for
the nosegear bearing mountingholes.
D3.Lay the right fuse side flaton the work surface.
Insert formers F-land F-2intotheirrespective slots
in the right fuseside doubler.
D8.Put F-5and F-6 in place in thelock-plate
notchesand secure with rubber bands.
D9.Note thatthe rear end ofthe stab saddle doub-
lers touch, preventing the rear ends of thefuse sides
from coming together. Using your T-bar, sand the
rear portions of both the stab saddle doublers as
shown untilthe rear ends ofthe fuse sides nearly
touch.
D4.While holding F-land F-2upright, lay the left
fuse side in place on these formers. Now put the 1/8"
ply fuse bottom in place intheslots provided.
D5.Holding these fiveparts together with one
hand, slide two #62 rubber bands over thenose, leav-
ing one around F-land one around F-2.
Note: Notice thatthe fuselage has now become
somewhat rigidand square. Before proceeding make
sure thatthe tabs inF-l, F-2and the fusebottom are
properly inserted intothe slots in thefuse doublers.
Position the fuselage initsnormal(upright)position
while inserting the other formers in the next steps.
D6. Put former F-3 inplace and secure by sliding
arubber band around the fuselage from the rear.
D7. Slide another rubber band around the fuse to
the F-4location, pullingthe fusesides together. Now
work F-4into place in the lock-plate notches.
(Seephoto at top ofnext column.)
D10.Turn the fuselage upside down and place the
3/8"ply L.G. plate into the slotsprovided. Secure
with masking tape.
D11.Now take the 1/8"balsa fuse bottom and care-
fullyslide it in place, narrow end first, under the
rubber bands, starting at F-3.
D12.Finally, insert the tapered balsa fusetail
wedge, and secure witha small rubber band or mask-
ing tape.
D13.Temporarily installthe 3/8"plyengine beams
and the 1/4"plybreakaway plates.Hold inplace with
masking tape. Now position your engineon the
breakaway plates and your fuel tankbehind F-l.
Don't worry about exact fitsat thistime.Whilehold-
ing these parts in position,determine where to drill
the holes in F-l for the fuellines and thethrottle
pushrod. (See photo and notes on next page.)

NOTE ON ENGINES: Theenginemount
"breakaway plates" have been cut to an average width
which willpermitmountingalmost any engine you
choose. However, you may have to trim these plates
slightly to fityour engine. The best way to do this is
to sand or fileaway a littleat a timefrom the inside
edges ofboth breakaway plates until your engine fits
between the plates.
NOTE ON FUEL TANK: The PT40 requires
any 6 or 8 oz. fueltank ofyour choice. Most tanks
have three possible openings, one for fuelpick- up,
and two forthe fill/ventlines. We recommend that
you only use two lines. Run one line from the "klunk"
pick-up to the fuelfittingon the engine carburetor
and the other to the "pressure tap" fittingon the
muffler.
D14.Because you have not yet glued the fuse parts
together, you may now carefullyremove F-l and drill
the holes for the fuel lines and throttle pushrod.
D15.Insert four 4-40 blind nuts part-way intothe
1/8"holes previously drilled. Insert them from the
back side of F-l. Apply one drop ofthick CAglue
under the wide part of each nut,then immediately
pressthem firmly in place with a pliers or a vise.
4-40BLINDNUT
D16.Replace F-lback into the fuse.
D17.By nowyou should have decided which wing
you are going to build,"WingA"(without ailerons),
or "Wing B"(withailerons).If you have chosen'
"Wing A",findthe fourF-2A wing saddles and put
them intothe slots behind F-2and in frontofF-3. If
you have chosen "Wing B",use the F-2B saddles.
D18.Check your assembly of the fuselage, making
sure that all former tabs are intheir respective
notches and all parts are in place. Setthe fuselage
assembly on the plan top view. Your fuse assembly
should line upwith the plan within1/16".If not,
something iswrongand you should try to straighten
it out.If the alignmentis faroff and you can't find
the problem, consult with an experienced model buil-
der to correct the problem before proceeding.
D19.Lay down a 50"long piece of waxed paper to
protect your buildingsurface. Setthe fuselage assem-
bly upright(inits normalposition)on thewaxed
paper. With everything inits proper place,apply thin
CAglue to all the joints, around the formers and
along the bottom.Wait a minutefor the glue to set,
then applythick CAto the jointsto make sure a
good bond exists, especially in the joints that do not
fitperfectly. Note: The use of"Zip Kicker" or other
CAglue accelerator will be helpfulwhen using thick
CAto fillany large gaps.
D20. Remove the rubber bands from the fuselage.
In the above step you may have glued the rubber
bands to the wood in some places. If so, justcut the
rubber away from the wood with an X-Acto knife.
INSTALL THE WINDSHIELD
AND HATCH
D1.Put the 1/2"balsa triangle windshield brace
in place and apply thinCAglue.
D2. Sand the 1/2"balsa triangle to match the curve
on the fusesides.
D3.Sand the bottom edge ofthe l/8"balsa
windshield at an anglesoit willrest flat on the fuse
sides.
D4. Apply thick CAto the 1/2"balsa triangle, then
immediately place the windshieldin position, hold-
ing the bottom against the triangle.
10(Seephoto,topofnext page.)

D5.Wet the top surface ofthe windshield sothe
woodwillbend withoutbreaking.
D6.Apply thick CAto the top of F-2 and the fuse
sides where thewindshieldwillcontact,then im-
mediatelybend the windshield down and hold until
the glue sets
D7. Trim any excess windshield even withthe back
edge ofF-2.
D8.Taper the rear edgeofthe 1/8"ply hatch to fit
the windshield as shown on the fuse planside view.
D9. Find thepiece of 1/8"plythatyou punched
out ofF-5.This isused asthehatch tongue.Gluethe
hatch tongueto the bottom ofthe 1/8"plyhatch with
thick CA. Let the hatchtongueextend about 1/2"
beyond theback edge of thehatch.
D10.Draw a guideline1/8"back from thefrontedge
of thehatch.This isthe centerline ofthe three hatch
holddown screws.
D11.Holdingthe hatch firmlyinposition, drill three
1/16"holesalongtheguideline•
D12.Remove the hatch and re-drill the holes in the
hatch only to 3/32". Then attach thehatchto thefuse
withthree #2 x 3/8"screws. (See photo, top of next
column.)
MOUNT THE ENGINE BEAMS AND
BREAKAWAY PLATES
D1.Glue the 3/8"ply engine beams in place using
5minuteepoxy. With a tissue,wipeoff anyexcess
epoxy thatsqueezes out whenslidingthebeams into
theslots. Allowtheepoxy tofullycurebeforedisturb-
ing thebeams.
D2. Holdingthe 1/4"breakaway plateunder the
3/8"ply beam,draw a lineon thebreakaway plate
to mark the edge ofthe beam.
D3.Now place the breakaway plateon top ofthe
beam andwhileholdingtheplatefirmlyinplace,
drillthree 3/32" holes as shown, drillingdown
through the breakaway plateand the beam. Do this
for both platesand beams.
11

D4. Remove the breakaway plates and re-drill the
holes in thebreakawayplates onlyto1/8".
D5,Fasten thebreakaway plates tothebeams
using six #4 x 5/8"screws.
#4x5/8" SCREW
INSTALLTHE LANDING GEAR
D1.Turn the fuselage upsidedown and position
the 5/32" wire main L.G. (landinggear) on the ply
L.G. plate. Setthe fournylon L.G. straps inplace
and mark the location for the eight screw holes. Drill
3/32"(or slightly smaller) holes at the marks.____
D2. Temporarily mountthe main LG using the
nylon straps and the #4 x 1/2"screws.
4-40x1"BOLT
#4x1/2" SCREW
D3.Temporarily mount the nylon nose gear bearing
using four4-40 x 1"bolts screwed into the 4-40 blind
nuts previously installed.
PREPARE THE NOSE GEAR
D1.Referring to the steering arm drawing here,
cut off about 3/16"ofthe steering arm soit will clear
the fuse triplers. Drill outthe end hole to 5/64"diame-
ter for pushrod wire clearance.
TRIM 3/16"HERE
D2.Assemble the nose gear steering armwhich
consists ofa nylon arm, a 5/32" wheel collar and a
6-32x 3/16"screw.
D3.Place the steering arm assembly into the nose
gear bracket making sure that the wheel collar open-
ing on the steering arm isdown and the screw is
facing out.
11
D4. Referringto the nose gear diagramon the plans,
slide the nose gear wire through the holes in the
nose gear bearing and wheel collar/steering arm.
Tighten the screw, making sure the steering arm is
at the angle shown on the top view ofthe fuselage.
D4.Ifyouarea youngperson, youshouldask
anadult to help you with thefollowing step:
Usinga side cutter, cut off the excess bolt length
sticking out behind F-l. You mustwear eyeprotec-
tionwhen doing this! Note: An alternate method
isto markthebolts withan indelible marker, remove
them from F-l, and cut them off at the marks with
aside cutter, hacksaw or a Dremel cut-off wheel.
(Seephoto,top ofnext column.)
CUTTHE NOSEGEAR PUSHROD
OPENING
D1.Mark and drill a 1/8"hole through Former F-l
inthe position shown on the F-l drawing on the plan.
Thisholeisfor pushrod clearance.
Seephoto, top ofnext page
12

CUT THE PUSHROD EXIT SLOTSFOR
THE RUDDER AND ELEVATOR
D1.Find thelocationof the"Pushrod Exits" on
thefuselageplan(sideview).Measuretheirlocations
inrelationto thefusebottomand theback of F-6,
andtransferthese measurementsto your fuselage.
Note thatthepushrod exitshown indashed linesis
fortherudderpushrodexiton theleftfuselage side.
D2. Cut out the slots with an X-Acto knife.
Thiscompletes thefuselage constructionfor
now. Note thatyou have notyet installed the top
sheet. Setthefuselageassemblyaside.
BUILD AND INSTALL THE "TAIL
FEATHERS"
Q1.Workingon waxed paperon a flatsurface,glue
the 1/4"balsafin front to the1/4" balsafin rear
using thinCA. Immediatelywipeoffany excess glue
to makesandingeasier. Apply glue to both sides of
thejoint.
D2.In the same manner,glue the stab (stabilizer)
front to the stab rear.
D3.Find the two 1/4"x 1/4"x 5-7/8" balsa pieces.
These are used for theendsofthestab and elevator.
Cut a 1-3/8"lengthfrom each of these pieces and
glue themto theendsof theelevatorusingthinCA
glue. Sand theendseven withthe elevator using a
sanding block.
D4. Take thetwo remainingpieces of 1/4"x 1/4"
balsa and glue them to theends of thestab and sand
to blend in.
D5.Roundthecorners ofthe fin,rudder, stab and
elevator as shown on theplan.
D6. Sand thefinand stab smooth with a T-bar
sandingblock and 100gritsandpaper.
D7.Put the elevator and stab together and sand
the tips to the same length.
D8.Usinga sandingblock,sand thefollowingto
aroundedshape: stab leadingedge (exceptingthe
flat center portion),stab tips,elevator trailingedge
and tips,finleadingedge,fintip, rudder trailing
edge andruddertip.
D9.Using a fine point felt tip marker, carefully
draw a centerlirieallalongthestab trailingedge,
elevator leadingedge, fintrailingedge and rudder
leadingedge.
D10.Usinga T-barsandingblockwith100grit
sandpaper,sandtheelevatorleadingedge andrudder
leadingedge to a "V" shape.Work slowlyandcare-
fullysoyou don't sand away too much balsa. When
you have finished,thecenterlinesyou previously
drew shouldremain,andthe"V" shapeshouldlook
likethesketch shown above thefinon theplan.
13

MAKE THE HINGES
D1.Take the 9"strip ofhinge material and roughen
both sides with220 grit sandpaper. This isbest done
witha small piece of sandpaper held withyour fin-
gers, ratherthana sandingblock.Do notsand the
centerline ofthehinge material.
D 2. Usinga ruler and a ballpoint pen, draw lines
dividingthe hinge material into eighteen 1/2"-wide
segments.
D2. Whileholdingtheelevator inplaceagainst
the stab trailingedge, transfer the hinge locations
to the elevator leadingedge.
D 3.Drillfour1/16"holes in each ofthe hinge seg-
ments as shown on the plan.Use a wood block asa
backingto drillinto whendrillingthese holes.
D4.Foldthe hingematerialback and forth a few
times onthe centerline to "condition" the hinges.
D5.Cut the hinges apart with a scissorson the
lines you previously drew. Also snipoffa small piece
ofeach hinge comer.
Note: You should end up with 18hinges,8 of
which you willuse for the ailerons ifyou arebuilding
the "B"wing.
MARKTHEHINGE LOCATIONS
D1.Lay the stabonthe plan and mark the hinge
locations on the stab trailing edge (both sides are
the same).
D3.Repeat the above process markingthe hinge
locations on the finand rudder. Don'tforget to mark
thebottom hinge location onthe rudder.
CUT THE HINGE SLOTS
D1.Move the fintrailingedge close to the table
edge.Placeasmallpieceof1/8"plywood(fromdie-cut-
ting scraps)next to the hinge slotlocation.
D2. Hold your X-Acto knifestraighton the scrap
wood and cut straight intothe fin.The slots should
be about 1/2" deep (enough for half of the hinge to
fitinto).
D3.Trial fitby pushing the hinges (no glue) into
the slotsto make sure you have cut the slotswide
enough and deep enough.
D4. Repeat this processfor the rudder, elevator
and stab.
MOUNT THE STAB ON THE FUSE
D1.Remove the nylon nosegear bearing and the
main gear from the fuselage.
D2.Lay the stab on the planand carefully lineit
upwith theoutside lines. Whileholdingit in this
position,lay a straight edge along the"fuselage cen-
terline" as shown on the plan.Draw thefuselage
centerline on the top of thestab witha finepoint
marker.Workascarefullyasyoucan when doingthis!
(Seephoto, top ofnext page)
14

the stab slightly until both measurements are the
same within 1/16".
D3.With the fuse on a flatsurface, lay the stab
in place on the fuselage in the stab saddle area with
thefrontof thestab touching therear surface ofF-6
and centered side-to-side.
D4. Whileholdingthestab firmlyin place onto
the saddle,measure down to the flatwork surface
from both ends ofthestab. Ifone side ishigherthan
the other, sand the high side of the stab saddle with
your T-bar sandingblock and80or 100grit
sandpaper. Replace thestab inthesaddle and re-
check themeasurements. Continue this processuntil
the stab is level within1/16".
NOTE: READ THROUGH AND PRAC-
TICETHE NEXT6 STEPS (A-F) BEFORE PRO-
CEEDING.
D5.Now glue the stabsecurely to the stab saddle
with5minuteepoxy.(Youmayperformthisstepwith
5minuteepoxy, buta slower curingepoxy willgive
youmoretimetomake sure thealignmentiscorrect.)
It isimportantthatthe stab be centered and square
on the fuselage; so,follow this procedure exactly:
A-With a ruler, measure to findtheexactcenter
ofthe top ofF-3. Stick a pin in at this point.
B-Also measure to findthe center ofthe top
ofF-6and mark this point with a pencil.
C- Lay the stab in thesaddle and line upthe
"fuse centerline" (whichyou previously drew on top
ofthe stab) withthemarkon F-6and with thecenter
joint at the rear ofthe fuse.
D- Check the "squareness" ofthe stab by
measuringfrom therear corners of both stab tips to
the pin in the center ofF-3.Adjust the position of
E- When you finallyhave thestab accurately
aligned on the fuse,makefourlittle"alignment
marks" on thestab where theleadingandtrailing
edge ofthe stab intersect withthe outside edges of
thefusesides. You willuse these marksto quickly
and accurately position thestab when gluing it in
place. Now remove the stab.
F-Mix up a batch ofepoxy and spread it on the
stab saddleand theback ofF-6. Lay thestab inplace
using the"alignment marks" forpositioning.Before
the glue sets, re-check the measurements in step D.
Hold or pin the stab in place until the glue sets.
MOUNTTHE FINTOTHE STAB
Note: Probably thesingle most troublesome
causeofpoorflyingmodelsisimproperfinalignment.
Therefore, you should takethetimeand care neces-
sary to do your"best whenperformingthisnextset
ofsteps. Read through thenext five steps before
beginning!
D1.At thefrontand back ofthe "fuse centerline"
which you previously drew on the top ofthe stab,
make accurate marks 1/8"right and left.
D2. Using a straightedge anda finepointmarker,
connect these marks, makingtwo parallel lines, one
on each sideof thefusecenterline.
15

D3.With the rudder attached to the finby the top
three hinges (not glued in),trialfitthe finonto the
fuse.If the rudder is too long and touches the flat
work surface preventingthe finfrom resting on the
stab, sand a small amount off the bottom of the rudder.
D4. Apply 5 minute epoxy to the bottom ofthe fin
and position the finbetween the guidelines you pre-
viously drew. Slide the fin/rudderassembly forward
until the bottom ofthe rudder just touches the back
ofthefuse.Wipeaway anyexcessepoxy withatissue.
D5.Before the epoxy sets, check the squareness
ofthe finwiththe stab, using a small carpenter's
square or draftsman triangle. Hold position until the epoxy sets firmly.
D6.Find the two 4-7/8" lengths ofl/4"balsa triangle
and sand the ends to a rounded (or pointed) shape
asshown on the plan.Trial fitthese pieces inplace
at the fin/stabjoint.Later, when you are covering
the model (and before you cover the finand stab)
cover the outer surface of these triangularpieces,
leaving about l/8"ofexcess covering all around the
edges. Then glue these pieces in place and iron down
the excesscoveringtothe finand stab
D7. You previously marked the four hinge loca-
tions on the rudder. Now transferthe bottom hinge
location over to the rear ofthe fuse. Cut the hinge
slotin the tapered balsa fuse tail filler.
(Seephoto, top ofnext column.)
D8.Now temporarily assemble the elevator to
the stab and the rudderto the fin.Swing the rudder
from side to side and theelevator upand down. The
rudder and elevator must not touch in any pos-
ition!Ifthey do, carve or sand the notch in the rudder
to insure thatthey willnot bind. In addition, make
sure no part ofthe fininterferes with the free upward
movement of the elevator.
Lay the fuselage assembly aside for now.
CHARGE YOUR NICAD BATTERIES
D1.Read the instruction manual for your radio
systemtobecome familiar with how tohook itup.
D2. Charge your transmitterand receiver bat-
teriesnow sothey willbe ready when you needthem.
Note:Charge the batteries for the time recom-
mended for the first charge...usually18-24hours.
BUILD THE WING PANELS
NOTE: Like the fuselage, the PT40wing is
made to fittogether without glue, soyou can assem-
ble allof the major parts andcheck to make sure
they are all linedupbefore applyingthinCA to the
joints.Thick CA willbeadded after the thin CA has cured.
D1.Turn the planover to side 2, whichshows the
wing. Tape or pintheplanto your flat work surface
sothe "Right Wing Panel" isfacingyou. Cover the
right wingpaneldrawing withwaxed paper (so you
won'tglue the wing to the plan!).
D2.The shaped and notched wingleading edge
(L.E.) andtrailingedge (T.E.) are fastened together
by a thinlayer of balsa.Separate themby folding
untilthe balsa breaks. Sand away theexcess balsa
that remains along the edges afterbreakingthem
apart, using a T-barwith 100grit sandpaper.
16

D3.Before using the L.E. andT.E.pieces, you must
determinewhichpieces are to beusedfor the right
wing panel.Here's how:
A-We have drawn red linesonthe topofeach
piece.
B -Notice that the pieces are notched on one
end,butnot on the other. The notched end goestoward
thewingtip,and theend withouta notch goestoward
the center ofthe wing.
C- Take one of theL.E. pieces and lay it on the
rightwingpanelplanwiththered lineup.If the
notched end is on the rightside (atthetip)you have
thecorrect L E.
D- Do thesame thing to determine which T.E.
piece to use.
D4 Tape one ofthe 3/8"x 1/2"basswood spars to
theplan,withtherightend ofthespar linedupwith
thetip.The excess spar lengthmustextendpast the
wingcenterline.Applytape in 3 places, between the
ribs,neartheends and inthemiddle.
D5.Remove the 3/32"balsa wing ribs from the die
cut sheets andslide12ribsintoplaceon thebottom
spar, usingtheplanto get them close to theirproper
positionDO NOT PUT A RIB AT THE CENTER-
LINE.
D6.Insert the fronts ofthe ribs into the notches
in the balsa leading edge (L.E.).
D7.Insert thebacks oftheribs into the notches
inthe balsa trailingedge (T.E.).
D8.Adjust the position ofthe leading edge and
trailingedge leftor rightsothey match theplanat
the right tip. Tape orpin them tothe plan sothey
don't move.
D9.The tipribshouldnow match the planexactly.
However, dueto shrinkage or expansion ofthe paper,
theother ribsmay not lineupperfectly. That is OK,
because thenotches in theL.E.and TE.are cutin
therightplaces. Before proceeding, make sure none
ofthe ribsare bowed (curved).If they are, straighten
them by slidingthecenter part rightor lefton the
spar.
D10.Insert the top 3/8"x 1/2"spar intothetop
notches inthe ribs, sothe rightend iseven withthe
tip rib.
D11.Insert two of the3/16"x 3/16"basswood spars
intothe small notches inthetop of the ribs, sothe
rightends are even withthetiprib.
D12.Make sure thatthe ribs are alldown onto the
planand fullyinserted into the notches in the L.E.
and T.E.
17

D13.Apply thin Cato all joints. After the thin CA
has cured, apply somethick CA to eachjoint.
D14.Find the die-cut plywood sheets containing the
DihedralBraces,WingBraces,F-2's and Gauges
(PT40W14 & PT40W15). Ifyou are buildingwing"A"
(without ailerons), punch out all the parts that apply to the
"A" wing.Compare eachpart withthe drawings onpage
6and mark them withtheir correct letter and number (A-
1,A-2, etc.). Ifyou are building the "B" wing, use only
the parts witha "B" onthem.
D15.Usingthe "dihedralgauge" (AorB,depending
onyour wingchoice), draw cut-offlineson the back
ofthe L.E. and the frontand back ofthe spars and
T.E.(See the sketch on the plan showing how to do
this.) Thepoint ofthedihedral gauge must be
exactly onthecenterlinewhenmarkingthecut-
off lines.
D16.Using a razor saw(or any fine-toothed saw),
carefully cut offthe L.E., spars and T.E.onthe lines
youjustdrew.
D17.Using 5 minute epoxy:
GlueA-l orB-l tothebackoftheleadingedge.
GlueA-2orB-2tothefrontofthemainspars.
GlueA-2orB-2tothebackofthemainspars.
GlueA-3orB-3tothefrontofthetrailingedge.
Removeany excessglue with a tissue.
NOTE: Skip to page39 and add the
shearwebs asdescribed onthat page.
18
Clamp orholdthe parts until the glue hardens.
Settherightwingpanel aside, and turnthe
plan around sothe leftwing panelis facingyou.
D18.Build the left wing panel inthe same manner
asyou did the right panel, following steps 1 through
16.
JOINTHEWINGPANELS
D1.Lay the leftwingpanel flaton the building
surface or a large flattable. Place a sheet of waxed
paper underthe"center" portion ofthe panel where
it willbejoined to the right half.
D2.Slide the right wing panel into position, so
the spars touch the spars of the left panel.Block up
the righttipwith a stack ofbooks The stack ofbooks
must be 8"high forwingA and 5"high forwingB.
D3.Check to make sure theL.E., spars and T.E.
are touching. If not, sand off any long ones slightly
untilthey alltouch.Now slide the panels apart.
NOTE: PRACTICE THE NEXT STEP
"DRY" BEFORE ACTUALLY DOING IT!
D4. Mixupa batch ofepoxy (30 minute epoxy is
preferred here to give you more time, or 5 minute
epoxy may be used if you work quickly),and apply
it to the dihedral braces, L.E., spars and T.E. Slide
the panels together and wipeupthe excess glue with
atissue.
Make surethewing panels remain inposi-
tionuntil theepoxyhas fully hardened.

INSTALL THE CENTER RIBS AND
BOTTOMSHEETING
LI1.Afterbuildingthe wing, you have two ribs
remaining.Lay these ribs,oneat a time,on thedraw-
ing in the lower leftcomer ofthe wing plan.With a
straight edge and a pen,markthe fourcut-offlines,
usingthe arrows as a guide.
D2.Cut the ribs at the cut-off lines using a razor
saw.
D3.Place the two "front parts" together andthe
two "aft parts" together, and apply thinCAglue
around theedges.
D4. Position these center ribparts in placeinthe
center ofthe wingand glue them to theL.E..spars
and T.E. You may use thinCAiftheribsfitperfectly;
otherwise use thickCA or epoxy.
D5.From thesheet of1/8"x 3"x 13"balsa, cut
rectangles to fitbetween thecenter riband the2nd
ribinboth wingpanelsThe easiest way to do this
isto lay thewingrighton the 1/8"balsa sheet and
trace aroundthe insideedge of theribs and spars as
shown here.
Note:The grain ofthis bottom sheeting must
run in the same direction asthe spars.
19
D6. Workingon waxed paper, glue the bottom
sheeting to the inside edges ofthe ribs and dihedral
braces.
D7. Turn thewingupside down and inspect the
bottom ofthe center section. If there are any major
gaps between parts, fillthem withbalsa dust (from
sanding) and apply thin CA.
D8.Sand the bottom of the center section smooth
with a sandingblock and 100gritsandpaper.
At this point the bottom center sectionshould
look like this:
INSTALL TAPERED TRAILING EDGE
(WING A ONLY)
Note: The following7 steps applyonly to wing
A(without ailerons). Ifyou are buildingWing B, skip
tothe next section now.
D1.Find the two tapered balsa T.E.pieces. They
are 1-3/16"wide and 30"long.
D2. Place one of the trailingedge pieces against
the rear edge ofthe rightwingpanelon a flatsurface.
Ifthere is a 3/32" gap alongthetop edge, thatmeans
the T.E.is upside down If so, turnitover.
D3.Working on a flatsurface covered withwaxed
paper, hold thetapered T.E. firmlyagainst the rear
edge of theRt.wingpanelwiththe leftedge at the
wingcenterline,and apply thinCAalong the joint.
Make sure thewingand the T.E.aredownflat on
the work surface when doing so.
D4. Take the other tapered T.E.and determine
which side goes up,as instep 2.
D5.Trial fitthis piece in place against the rear
edgeofthe Leftwingpanel.Youwillprobablynotice
thatthereisa gap on thebottom, where thetwo T.E.
pieces come together. If so,sand the end of theT.E.
soit fits snugly against the end ofthe right T.E.
D6.Glue the left taperedT.E.in place, asin step3.

D7.With a razor saw,cut offthe ends ofthe tapered
trailing edges even with the tipribs.
INSTALL TRAILING EDGE, AILERONS
AND TORQUE RODS (WING B ONLY)
Note:The following 27 stepsapply to wing B
(with ailerons). If you are building wing A, skip to
the next section now.
D1.Find the two tapered balsa T.E.(trailing edge)
pieces. They are 1-3/16"wide and 30"long.
D2.Place one ofthe T.E.pieces against the rear
edge ofthe right wing panel on a flatsurface. Ifthere
isa 3/32" gap along thetop edge, thatmeans theT.E.
is upside down. If so,turn it over.
D3.Just below the right wing drawing(on the
plan),there is a separate drawingshowing theaileron
details. Usingthis drawingas a guide, cut thetapered
T.E. intothree parts. Label these parts: "Rt.inboard
T.E.","Rt.Aileron" and "Rt. outboard T.E."
("Rt."isan abbreviation for"right".)
D4. Glue the Rt. outboard T.E.piece to the rear
edge of the rightwingpanel.The outer edge of the
T.Eshould beeven with the tip asshown on the plan.
There are severalways to accomplish this, so
you may chooseone ofthese:
A-File the groove with an 1/8"or 5/32"diameter
round file, available at hardware stores (thistype
offile isnormally usedto sharpen small chain saw
teeth).
B- Cutthe groove with a 5/32" outside diameter
brass tube. You can sharpen the tube by cutting
around the inside ofone end with an X-Acto knife.
C- Cut the groove by runningthe T.E. piece
overa small table saw,withthe blade set at the
height needed to cut a groove5/32"deep.
D- Rout the grooveout with a Dremel Moto
Tooland a 1/8"bit.
D7. Turn the two inboard T.E.pieces upside down
asshown inthefollowingphoto,and measure 7/16"
out from the"wingcenterline".At the7/16"point,
cut a notch in both pieces with an X-Acto knife,pro-
viding free movement for the threaded portion ofthe
aileron torque rods.
D8.Roughen thesurface of thenylontorque rod
bearings usinga piece of 100gritsandpaper.
D9.Slide the nylon torque rod bearings asfaras
they will gotoward the threaded portion ofthe torque
rods.
D10.With a toothpick, apply a small amountof
petroleum jelly(Vaseline, etc.)aroundthe torque rod
where itenters the nylonbearing.This willhelp
prevent any excess glue from getting in and possibly
"locking up" the torque rod.
D11.Place the torque rods into the groovedT.E.
pieces.
D5.Repeat steps 1-4forthe left side, making the
"Lt.inboard T.E.","Lt.Aileron" and "Lt.outboard
T.E."("Lt."isan abbreviation for "left".)
D6.Find the "ailerontorque rods".You will
notice thatthere is a black nylon tube on each of the
bent rods. This nylon tube iscalled the "torquerod
bearing". You must now make a groove in the front
edge ofeach inboard T.E.,sothe torque rod bearing
may fitinto the groove.
STOP!ATTHIS POINTYOU MUSTCARE-
FULLY STUDY THE PLANS AND PHOTOS TO
MAKESUREYOUHAVETHERIGHTTORQUE
ROD IN THE RT.INBOARD T.E., AND THE
LEFTTORQUE RODINTHE LT.INBOARDT.E.
THETHREADED PORTION MUST COME OUT
THE BOTTOM, AND THE SHORT BENT END
MUST POINT TOWARD THE REAR.
20