Hobie Tiger User manual

1
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
HOBIE TIGER

2
Necessary tools :
2 spanners #17
1 pair of universal plier
It is advisable to be at least 2 people to
assemble the Hobie Tiger .
CAUTION - DANGER ALUMINIUM
MAST - STAY AWAY OF
ELECTRICAL WIRES
TABLE OF CONTENT
List of parts..............................................2
Hull assembly ..........................................4
Trampoline...............................................5
Rudder assembly .....................................7
Tiller crossbar & stick .............................8
Mast set up...............................................9
Spreader bars ........................................10
Preparation of the mast 11
Stepping the mast..................................12
Trapeze...................................................13
Boom......................................................14
Mainsail..................................................15
Cunningham...........................................16
Mast rotation..........................................18
Jib furler (option) ...................................19
Fully battened jib (serial) .......................21
Jib sheet self tacking system ................23
Self tacker traveller car control ............24
Main sheet system.................................25
Trumpet Spinnaker (option)...................27
Before Sailing.........................................32
Safety advice ..........................................33
LIST OF PARTS
Hulls (2)
Front crossbar
Rear crossbar
Mast
Boom
Trampoline
Part bag (wires)
Rigging bag
Ropes bag
Spinnaker rig bag
Rudder assemblies (2)
Tiller crossbar
Tiller extension FX6
Mainsail + battens (7)
Jib
Trampoline lacing rod
Daggerboards (2)

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ROPES :
1. Kit trapeze handle
2. Jib sheet
3. Jib halyard
4.6. Side lines for Cunningham
5. Central line for Cunningham
7. Mast rotation line
8. trapeze shock cord
9. Trapeze line
10. Trapeze handles
11. Trampoline laces
12. Righting line
13. Main sheet system
RIG BAG :
1. Drain plug + gasket
2. Plastic spring for boom
3. Main cunningham blocks
4. Heart shackle + cunningham blocks
5. Gooseneck connector
6. Ball stop
7.Stay adjusters
8. Batten kit
9. Cunningham blocks
10. Inox rudder pins + split rings
LIST OF PARTS
WIRES :
1. Shrouds
2. Bridles
3. Diamond wires
4.5. Forestay + pigtail + jib halyard rope
6.7. Trapeze wires
8. rigid forestay
9. Stay adjuster
10. Spreader bars
11. Stay adjuster covers
12. Shackle D8

4
1. Position the hulls in parallel with the inner
sides facing the ground.
Lift the right hull. One person straddles the hull
to hold it in place. The other person applies the
silicone sealant (for waterproofing) around the
screw holes.
2. Take the front crossbar (with dolphin striker).
Place it in its support so that the trampoline
track faces the rear of the boat. Insert the two
bolts. Pass your hand through the inspection
port to position the nuts and washers onto the
screws photo). Fasten loosely.
Lift the left hull, and follow the same steps as for
the right hull. Do not fully tighten the screws.
***Respect same order for the washers as as-
sembled at the delivery***
3. Apply silicone sealant around the screw holes
at the back of the hulls. Place the rear crossbar
on the right side. Insert the bolts, washers and
nuts as shown for the front crossbar. Do the
same thing for the left side.
Once the frame has been mounted, tighten all the
bolts fully and then install the lock nuts.
It is advisable to check the fastening of the bolts
after the first trip out onto the water, and re-
check these at regular intervals.
Hull assembly

5
Trampoline assembly
1. Unfold the trampoline. Note that the trampoline has side tension lines that are already pre-threa-
ded. Insert the front edge of the trampoline into the track at the left, rear side of the front crossbar.
Continue feeding the trampoline into the track and position it in the center. line up the grommet in the
center of the trampoline with the dolphin striker post to ensure it is centered.
2. Take one of the side tensioning lines and pass the line
through the pad-eye that is fixed to the front crossbar then
through the grommet of the trampoline near where the
rope exits the trampoline and back to the pad-eye. Then
fix it through the grommet that is near the crossbar using
a bowline knot.
Repeat this step at the opposite side front corner.
3. Move to the rear of the trampoline. Very closely to
where the side tensioning line exits the rear of the tram-
poline tie a loop. ensure you pull the side tensioning line
firmly as to tie the loop as closely to the trampoline where
the rope exits as possible. Tie a bowline or a similar loop
in the line which will be used for a 4:1 purchase of the
side tensioning lines. Repeat this step for the opposite
side rear corner.
4. Now take the tale of the side tensioning line and pass the rope through the pad-eye mounted on the
rear cross beam closest to where the line exits the trampoline. Then pass the line back through the
loop tied in step3. Again go through the pad-eye on the beam and back through the loop. This will pro-
vide a 4:1 purchase. Pull the line slightly as to take some tension for the sides but do not completely
tension at this stage. Repeat this step for the opposite side rear corner. Ensure that the trampoline is
still centered.

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Trampoline assembly
5. Find the trampoline rod and insert it into the rear of the
trampoline.
6. Commence lacing the rear of the trampoline. The lacing line starts at the left, rear lacing button on
the rear crossbar. Lace the rear of the trampoline as tightly as possible as per the photographs and
diagrams supplied. Continue across the rear crossbar and tie off securely when finished.
7. Again, take the side tensioning line and very
firmly pull the line in order to tighten the trampo-
line. Repeat this for the opposite side rear corner.
8. Once the sides of the trampoline have been
further tightened, tie off the line and hide the tail
under the trampoline. Repeat this step for the
opposite side rear corner.
NB : It is important that the trampoline be
strongly tightened.
Check the tension on a regular basis.
beginning

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Rudder assembly
1.
Identify the right rudder from the left rudder
(green sticker = right ; red sticker = left)
Take the left rudder, and align the lower rudder
casting onto the rear gudgeon.
2. Insert the rudder pin.
Do not forget to put in the two split rings: one on top and one at the bottom of the rudder pin.
Repeat the procedure for the right rudder assembly.

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1.
Take the tiller crossbar and insert the right side into the
right rudder arm and the left side into the left rudder arm.
2. Take the yoke connection of the tiller extension
and fix it into the middle of the tiller crossbar
3. Then fix the tiller head into the yoke connection
as shown on the photo.
Tiller crossbar & extension

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1.
Place the mast onto two supports (eg: two
pieces of polystyrene).
Unroll the trapeze wires and fix them using
a 6 mm shackle to the upper hole on the
mast tang (two on each side).
2.
Unroll the shrouds and the forestay wire +
pigtail + jib halyard rope and fix them to the
lower hole of the mast tang using a shac-
kle 8 mm. The shrouds go onto each side
of the forestay.
3. IMPORTANT : Do not forget to attach the jib halyard rope to the small single block at the end of the
jib halyard wire. Tie off the jib halyard wire and rope near the base of the mast.
Preparation of the mast

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1. Unroll the diamond wi-
res. Attach the joint end of
the diamond wires onto the
turnbuckle adjuster near the
base of the mast (level with
the security sticker) using the
pin and split ring.
Take the loose ends of the
diamond wires and hold tight
to adjust to the same length,
using the turnbuckle adjus-
ter which is located on the
lower section of one of the
wires. Once they are the same
length, attach the two wires
to the shield plaes situated on
each side of the mast under
the mast tang.
2. Assemble the spreaders on the
centre of the mast. The spreader
root attaches to the front of the
mast section onto the one-piece
stainless steel strap. The sprea-
der rake adjuster barrel attaches
on each side to the individual
fittings on both sides of the mast
nearer the sail track. To adjust
the spreader rake, adjust the
length of the barrel (by winding
in or out) and measure from the
wire positions at the tips of each
spreader.
3. Slide the diamond Wires into the corresponding
slots at the end of the spreaders. Ensure the black
plastic roller is above the spreader arm. It may be
necessary to release tension from the diamond wire
turnbuckle adjuster near the base of the mast. Secure
the diamond wire with the thin wire supplied. Pass
the wire through the small hole near the spreader tip,
bend the wire and on one side of the spreader turn the
wire around the thicker diamond wires two or three
times. Do the same for the other side of the spreader.
Cut off the excess thin wire ensuring it is bent neatly
onto the diamond wires as to prevent the wire from
tearing the sails. Once secured, tape over the sprea-
der tips to further ensure there are no sharp edges.
Caution : do not try to adjust
spreader rake while diamond
wires are tensioned. Only adjust
under no diamond wire tension
and screwing the barrel by hand.
Spreader Bars

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Preparation of the Mast
1.
Lay the mast on top of the boat with the sail track
to the bottom and the mast base toward the
bows. Place padding under the mast to prevent
scratching.
2. Lay the shroud wires and trapeze wires down
each side of the mast. Secure the trapeze wires
temporarily near the base of the mast.
3.
Ensure that the shroud anchor pins are sealed,
tight and pointing at 90° to the centreline of the
hull. Attach the twist toggles to the anchor pins
using the clevis pins and rings. If you have the
optional spinnaker kit use the 6-mm bow shac-
kles provided instead of the clevis pins.
Attach the stay adjusters to the twist toggles
with the clevis pins and rings.
Attach both shrouds into the top hole of the
respective stay adjusters. This is only a tempo-
rary position for raising the mast.
4.
Attach the bridle wires to the bow tangs.
5. OPTION JIB FURLER
Now, attach the jib furler to the bridle wires.
NB: Ensure that the hole in the furler housing is facing towards
the front crossbar.Now also is a good time to roll some line onto
the furler drum. Leave enough line unfurled to reach the front
crossbar mounted furler cleat.
The cleat for the jib furler is located at the left side of the front
cross bar. The furler line passes under the cross bar and through
a small eyelet in the trampoline. Directly above the eyelet is a
small black cleat. Pass the line through the cleat and tie a figure
eight knot in the end. This will prevent the line from falling out.

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Stepping the mast
CAUTION - DANGER
ALUMINIUM MAST
STAY AWAY OF ELECTRICAL WIRES
1.
Place the mast foot on the mast base and
place the pin in it. This prevents the mast
from leaving its base when lifted. Check that
the wires are not tangled.
2. Then, with one person on the trampoline, the second person lifts the mast by
the top and moves down the mast until the person on the trampoline can take the
mast on their shoulder. Then this person pushes his feet against the rear cross-
bar and pushes the mast forward with the weight of his body.
Once the mast is secured, remove the pin from the base of the mast which can
now turn freely.Fix the cunningham blocks on each side of the base of the mast.
3.
The second person can now take the forestay, make sure it is not tangled and
pin it into one of the top holes of the stay adjuster or of the furler mounted
stay adjuster (for the option roller jib).
4.
Once the mast is secure remove the bolt from the base
of the mast and stow it in a
secure place. You will need the bolt later for safe lowe-
ring of the mast.
Now you can affix the cunningham blocks to
the brackets on each side of the mast.
For the 1st time you raise the mast,
it is recommended
you use 3 people for extra safety.

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Trapeze
1.
Release the trapeze wires from the base of the mast. The crew’s trapeze has the clamcleat swaged to
the wire. Ensure that the crews trapeze wire is positioned in front of the shroud.
2. Attach the trapeze handles and kits to the trapeze wires.
3. Pass the skipper trapeze shock cords under-
neath the trampoline and up through the grom-
mets at the side of the trampoline. Attach to the
trapeze system as shown in the photographs.
4.. For the crew trapeze, take the shock cord that
comes out of the cross bar and fix to it the end of
the trapeze adjustable rope using a bowline knot.
(see above photo)

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1. Slide the outboard end of the boom through the
webbing loop attached to the clew of the mainsail.
2.Connect the boom to the mast using the hinge vertex, clevis pin and split ring.
3. Connect the shackle on the boom outhaul line
to the grommet in the clew of the mainsail.
4. Tie one end of the rotation line to the front of
the clamcleat on top of the boom. Pass the other
end of the line through the end of the rotation
arm on the mast. Take the line back through the
clamcleat.
5. fit a plastic ball stopper at the end.
Boom

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Main Sail
Always point your Hobie directly into the wind before you raise the mainsail.
1. Unfold the mainsail onto the trampoline and insert each batten into its respective pocket. The bat-
tens are numbered (from 1 to 7) the smallest (N ° 1) goes at the top of the sail and the longest (N° 7)
at the bottom of the sail. Attach the batten end caps with the batten lines as shown on the photos.
2.
Undo the main halyard rope which is rolled around
the mast. Pass one end through the hole in the
mainsail head plate and stop with a 8 figure knot.
(on the left side).
3.
Go onto the trampoline. Feed the luff of the mainsail into the
opening of the mast track ensuring that the hook is on one side
of the mast and the halyard rope on the other side. Raise the
mainsail by pulling the halyard and feeding the sail
until it reaches the top. When the sail is all the
way up, turn the mast slightly to the left in order
to hook on the mainsail. Insert the bottom end of
the luff into the base of the mast track. Roll up
the halyard rope and place it into the pocket on the
trampoline at the foot of the mast.

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2. Take the righting line from the rope bag. Attach it to the dolphin striker post under the front crossbar (photo). Pass it
under the trampoline through the grommet at the base of the mast. Fold up the end of the line and stow it in the trampo-
line pocket at the base of the mast.
1.
Attach the cunningham blocks (with the hooks) into the grommet of
the mainsail tack. Take the cunningham line and feed as follows :
(NB : the line must go through the inside of the rotation arm).
Start with the A line and insert it into the cleat, round the single
block and attach the end to one double block supplied with a bowline
knot.
Same thing on the other side with the B line.
take the central line (C). Insert it in the cunningham block on the left
side of the mast and feed it up through the first sheave in the left
pulley from the rear to the front,
take it down in the left sheave at the bottom of the mast from the
front to the rear,
take it back up into the second sheave of the left block from the rear
to the front
take it down in the single block of the bottom of the mast
take it back up in the first sheave of the right hand block from the
rear to the front
take it down in the right sheave at the bottom of the mast from the
rear to the front
take it back up in the second sheave of the right hand block from
front to the rear
and finish in the right cunningham block on the other side of the
mast.
Attach each end of the cunningham line to the shrouds.
AB
C
Cunningham

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Cunningham
3. To finalise the main cunningham, take each
end of the central line (C) lead them behind the
shrouds, under the trampoline and attach them
on the inox rings that are hold by shock cords.
Be careful to cross the lines. Attach the end coming
fromt he right to the left ring and the end coming from
left to the right ring.

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Mast rotation
1. On the 2009 Tiger, the rotation arm is on the
mast base. Take the grey spectra line with 2
micro blocks. Insert the line through the rotation
arm, center it and make two turns. They feed it
under the trampoline through the eyelet and fix
one micro block at each end.
2. Take the green and white
lines. Attach them, using a
bowline knot, to the tram-
poline chain plates on the
inside of the hulls. Take
each free end, feed each of
them into one of the micro
block (installed in point 1
above) and lead each of
them out to the respective
cleat located on the hulls
near the shrouds.

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Jib furler (option)
1.
Unroll the jib and open the zipper on the luff. Using the 4mm bow
shackle connect the tack point to the third hole of the stay adjus-
ter.
2.
Shackle the jib head to the jib
halyard. Then position the jib
and the halyard line against
the forestay. Close the zipper
ensuring that the halyard line
remains inside the zipper. As you
pull down on the halyard line
close the zipper as the sail is
raised.
3.
Once the jib is fully raised, take the jib luff tensioner line
and secure it to the bottom holes in the stay adjuster.
4.
Now pass the line through the small pulley at the end of
the jib halyard, then back down through the cleat on the
tack of the jib. Remove the jib halyard line and stow it in
the trampoline pocket.
To use without the jib cunningham, please follow the instruc-
tions 3 & 4 below, otherwise see next page

20
Jib furler (option)
To use with the cunningham kit, please follow steps 5,6, 7 & 8 below
5.
Block the jib halyard in the cleat at the tack point, then feed it
through the small pulley. Then lead it down through the stay
adjuster and through the furler.
6.
After that, lead it through the small pulley at the end of
the line that is attached on the briddle toggle on the left
hull .
7.
Lead it through the block fixed on the brid-
dle toggle of the opposite side (right hull).
8.
Lastly secure it in
the cleat on the
front crossbar.