Hobie Wave User manual

WELCOME TO THE
HOBIE WAY OF LIFE
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Wave and welcome to the HOBIE® sailing family. The HOBIE
Wave cannot be outgrown. It can be sailed by children up through senior citizens. A 90-pound youth can han-
dle it easily – a single adult can sail it at top performance – and a crew of four can cruise in comfort.
We offer this manual as a guide to increased safety and enjoyment of your new boat. The purpose of this pub-
lication is to provide easy, simple and accurate instructions on how to get your Wave ready for the water.
Please read them carefully and familiarize yourself with the boat and all of the parts spread before you.
Whether you are a new sailor or a veteran of many years, we recommend that you read this thoroughly before
your first sail and TRY IT OUR WAY FIRST! If you are new to sailing, this manual alone is not intended to
teach you how to sail. There are many excellent books, videos and courses on the safe handling of small sail-
boats. We suggest that you contact your local sailboat dealer, college or Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommen-
dations.
Watch for overhead wires whenever you are rigging, launching, sailing or trailering with the mast up. CON-
TACT OF THE MAST WITH POWER LINES COULD BE FATAL! Be certain that the rigging area and the area
that you will be sailing in are free of overhead power lines. Report any such power lines to your local power
authority and SAIL ELSEWHERE.
We take pride in presenting the Wave to you and hope that you'll take as much pride in owning her.
Fair winds and good sailing!
Hobie Cat

1
This assembly manual takes you step-
by-step through the setting-up and sail-
ing of your new HOBIE Wave.
This manual will help you understand
each part in detail. For more informa-
tion refer to the Wave assembly video
tape and your Hobie Cat dealer.
Setting up your Wave PAGE
Wave terminology.................................2
List of parts...........................................3
Knots to use .........................................4
The hulls...............................................4
Trampoline assembly ........................4-6
Tensioning the trampoline ....................6
Mast assembly .....................................7
Stepping the mast.............................7-9
Sail..................................................9-10
Downhaul and adjustment..................10
Mainsheet...........................................10
Rudder assembly ...............................10
Tiller cross bar....................................11
Setting up the CLUB
Wave......... 11-12
Please refer to the CLUB WAVE assem-
bly page for each item identified by the
following "SEE CLUB". This will identify
items that differ from the standard Hobie
Wave assembly.
Sailing your Wave .......................PAGE
Balancing the boat...................................13
Steering....................................................13
Sail power ...........................................13-14
Righting the boat.................................14-15
Turning......................................................14
Launching/landing..............................14-15
Rudder tuning.....................................15-16
Car topping/trailering..........................16-17
Safety tips..................................Back page

2
Wave Terminology
MAST
DOWNHAUL
RUDDER CASTINGS
TILLER ARM
SHROUD
HULL
BRIDLE
FORESTAY
SAIL CLEW
MAIN SHEET SYSTEM
RUDDER
SAIL
BATTENS
FORESTAY / BRIDLE
ADJUSTER
MAST FLOAT

SMALL PARTS DETAIL
➀Mainsheet system
➁Downhaul line
➂Righting line
➃Forestay wire with adjuster
and bridle wires
➄Shroud wires
NOT SHOWN: Main halyard line
3
LIST OF PARTS
You should have:
➀(2) Hulls with hardware
➁(1) Front cross bar
➂(1) Rear cross bar
➃(1) Trampoline
➄(1) Box of small parts
➅(1) Sail, battens and sail bag
➆(2) Rudder assemblies
➇(1) Tiller cross bar
NOT SHOWN:
(1) Upper mast section
(1) Lower mast section
(1) Mast float
(1) Trampoline lace rod
(taped to battens)
➆
➁
➅
➀
➄
➇
➂
➀
➃
➁
➄
➂
➀
➃
Check the boat and parts carefully to be sure that all of the parts are present
and that the boat is in good order.
PARTS

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
KNOTS TO USE
FIGURE 8 KNOT BOWLINE KNOT HALYARD KNOT CLEATING OFF A LINE
1. 2.
FIGURE 8 KNOT
AT END OF LINE
1. THE HULLS
Lay the hulls on the ground on their sides with the bot-
toms to the center (graphics down) as in figure 1. A tarp
or pads may be desirable under the hull if the ground
surface is rough. Place the hulls about six feet apart.
There is one plug in the rear of each hull (shown inset).
These plugs are used to drain the hulls. The plugs
should be in place before sailing. Remove the plugs
after sailing to drain any water that may have leaked
into the hulls. It is best to travel with and store the boat
with the plugs removed to allow for pressure changes
due to heating, cooling and altitude changes. This will
prevent warping of the hull surface.
2. CROSSBARS AND TRAMPOLINE
ASSEMBLY
Figure 2a shows an example of the assembled trampo-
line assembly. To assemble the cross bars and trampo-
line onto the hulls, first locate the crossbars and trampo-
line. These parts are partly pre-assembled by the facto-
ry. "SEE CLUB"
Un-roll the trampoline assembly and position it between
the hulls. The front of the trampoline has a rope molded
into the edge seam and two "D" rings molded onto the
top surface. The sides and rear of the trampoline have
loops and cut outs along the edges. The front crossbar
has a casting with mast step ball located on the top cen-
ter. The rear crossbar has (4) webbing straps with vel-
cro and a small stainless steel loop fitting on the top and
center.
FIGURE 1a
FIGURE 2a
4
PLUG

It will not be necessary to detach the cross bars from
the trampoline during future disassembly and assembly.
Once the trampoline is assembled to the cross bars
and they are in position, check to see that the velcro
straps at the rear are loosely fastened.
Lift the front crossbar
and insert the left end
into the left hull. Insert
only partially. Lift the
rear cross bar and
insert the left end into
the left hull. Keep the
straps rolled around the
rear cross bar as in fig-
ure 2d(5). Insert front
and rear completely
(see figure 2e). The
cross bars have stops
built into the underside
that will limit the depth
the cross bar can be
inserted.
Reach up and hold the right end of the front crossbar,
and pull it down. This will rotate the left hull to the
upright position. Straddle the right hull and rotate it to
the upright position by grabbing the cross bar insert hole
on the outboard side and pulling the hull to vertical.
Insert the front cross bar
partially. Align and
insert the rear cross bar
partially. Working front
and rear, wiggle hull
onto cross bars until
fully inserted as in
figure 2f.
Upon first time assembly, you will need to feed the tram-
poline into the front cross bar. Remove one of the eye
straps and block fittings with
cable located near each end of
the forward cross bar (figure
2b) by loosening the screws just
enough to slide the fitting out of
the bar.
Slide the trampoline into the
front cross bar with the hiking
straps up. Replace the eye strap
and block fitting to its original
position and tighten.
Upon first time assembly it will then be necessary to
feed the trampoline lace rod into the pocket at the rear
of the trampoline (figure 2c). Position it with equal
amounts extending from each side of the trampoline.
Position the rear cross bar along the rear of trampoline.
Place it with the open track towards the trampoline and
the small stainless steel loop fitting at the center on top.
Position the four webbing straps (with velcro) in line with
the openings that the lace rod passes through.
5
FIGURE 2c
FIGURE 2e
FIGURE 2f
FIGURE 2b
Rear Bar
Trampoline and lace rod
Web strap
Velcro Flap
Continue around the rear
bar as in figure 2d(2).
FIGURE 2d(2)
FIGURE 2d(1) "SIDE VIEW"
Pass the velcro straps
over the top of the bar
and away from the tram-
poline as in figure 2d(1).
Pass the webbing for-
ward then around the
lace rod through the
trampoline opening from
top to bottom as shown in
figure 2d(3).
FIGURE 2d(3)
FIGURE 2d(4)
Bring the Webbing back
around the rear bar in the
opposite direction.
Repeat the previous
steps for each strap.
Then tuck each one
under the velcro flaps.
Fasten the velcro straps
back to their anchors
loosely.
FIGURE 2d(5)

Pass the two trampoline cables from the front crossbar
through the trampoline side loops to the rear crossbar.
As shown (
from the underside of the trampoline ) in
figure 2g, on each side at the rear crossbar, locate the
line that runs from the rear corner pulley block. Pass the
line to the rear trampoline "D" ring and return through
the small pulley block. Pass the end of the line through
the trampoline cable end fitting and tie a "figure 8" knot
as shown in the knot diagrams on page 4.
FIGURE 2g (rear corner, underside )
FIGURE 2h (top view)
To tension the trampo-
line, you will use the
mainsheet system (block
and tackle). Find the
mainsheet system locat-
ed with the small parts.
The system line is pre-
run by the factory. Attach
the shackle at the bottom
of the blocks to the stainless steel loop fitting in the cen-
ter of the rear cross bar. Pull the mainsheet hook, at the
top of the system, up to the front of the trampoline. Hook
the mainsheet to the ring fastened to the trampoline
cable system at front of trampoline as in figure 3b. (Do
Not fasten the mainsheet hook to the "D" ring that is
attached to the trampoline) Start on either left or right
side.
Pull tension on the main-
sheet until the cable sys-
tem ring and hook near
the "D" ring attached to
the trampoline (FIGURE
3c). Position hook to
engage ring thereby con-
necting the two rings
together as in figure 3d.
Release the mainsheet
tension and unhook from
ring. Repeat the process
on the opposite side. Be
sure all "D" rings are
positioned as shown and
not turned or pulled from
ends as damage to the
trampoline may result.
Additional tension or reduced tension can be achieved by
repositioning the knot as shown in figure 3f at rear end
of cable (after disengaging the forward rings). The cables
should be tight to make the trampoline area taut. Unhook
rings at front, move knot and re-hook forward rings.
Repeat until trampoline area is taut. In future assembly
this adjustment will not be necessary unless trampoline
becomes loose once again.
Tighten each velcro strap (4) to support the trampoline at
the rear crossbar.
FIGURE 3d
FIGURE 3f
FIGURE 3b
FIGURE 3c
Figure 2h is the top view of same. Making adjustments
and re-tying the knot at the pulley block will loosen or
tighten the side cables. The cables should be some-
what loose at this time. Be sure the "D" rings remain as
pictured above and not pulled from one end when
loaded as damage may result.
Pulley block
Cable end
"D" ring
Cross bar
stop
3. TENSIONING TRAMPOLINE
As shown in figure 3a,
hook the trampoline side
cables onto the three
hooks on each hull. ( If
you are re-assembling,
be sure that the main-
sheet system is loose or
disconnected from ring
at front of trampoline to
keep cables loose
). FIGURE 3a
Adjust knot here
6

Attach the multi-hole adjuster to
the forestay as shown in figure
5b with the clevis pin and ring
at the end hole of the adjuster
(top of the 7 holes). This is the
loose adjustment for first
assembly (photo shows third
hole down). Shackle the bridle
wires (thimble loop end) to the
bottom of the adjuster.
"SEE
CLUB" This leaves the spring
hooks at the very end of the
forestay/ adjuster/ bridle
assembly.
5. MAST WIRES
The mast will be held in the upright position by two side
wires (shrouds) and one front wire (forestay). The
forestay will attach to two shorter wires (bridles) with a
"7 hole" adjuster. Locate the three main (longer) wires
and install onto the mast tang as shown in figure 5a
using the 1/4" threaded shackle provided in the rig kit.
The shorter forestay wire goes in the middle of the
shackle with one shroud on either side.
"SEE CLUB"
4. MAST ASSEMBLY
The mast is in two sections. The bottom section is alu-
minum and displays the warnings against sailing and
assembling near overhead wires and power lines.
Before raising the mast check again that you are in a
safe area and always remember this warning. Insert the
upper section into the lower section.
Install the mast float to the upper mast section as in fig-
ure 4. First time assembly will require the removal of the
two halyard pulley clevis pins, placement of the float
assembly over the mast top casting and replacing the
clevis pins with the screws and nuts provided with the
float assembly. Be sure the blunt end of the float is fac-
ing forward towards blunt side of the mast.
7
FIGURE 5a
6. STEPPING THE MAST
To set the mast into the upright position, position the
mast base at the mast step ball located on the front
crossbar as shown in figure 6a(1). The mast top and
float should be positioned to the rear of the boat in the
center of the rear crossbar.
FIGURE 6a(1)
FIGURE 5b
FIGURE 6a(2)
Connect the mast base to the step ball by positioning
the step ball inside the mast base cup. Pass the pin
through the mast base as shown in figure 6a(2).
FIGURE 4

Check to be sure that the wires are not crossed.
Connect the left side shroud to the left hull with the
opposing hooks as shown in figure 6b and 6c.
Pass the split ring through the small hole in the two
hooks to lock them together as in figure 6c.
Slide the vinyl boot over the hook assembly to lock it in
place as in figure 6d. The top of the boot must engage
the wire swage (swage must protrude from top of boot)
to prevent them from moving up the wire and possibly
allowing the ring to be exposed. Repeat for right side
shroud.
Check wires to be sure they are not crossed and that they
are free to allow the mast to swing to the upright position.
If you are stepping the mast by yourself or just to make
things easier, pull the sail halyard hook forward, over the
top of the shroud wires, to the bow. Hook into the bridle
wire fitting. Loosely tie opposite end of halyard to the
cleat at bottom end of the mast. This line will be used to
hold mast in the upright position before forestay and bri-
dle wires assembly are attached to the bow fittings.
Before continuing, once again check for overhead
power line wires that could contact the mast when
raising.
Stand on the trampoline near the rear crossbar and lift
the mast to your shoulder (figure 6f).
Face forward on the
boat with a wide stance
for stability. Walk for-
ward while lifting the
mast until the side
shrouds go tight pre-
venting the mast from
further forward move-
ment. Lean your weight
against the mast to
hold it in this position.
See figure 6g.
Reach down to the
halyard cleat and pull
the halyard line tight.
Fasten the line to the
cleat in a secure manner as shown in "Knots" on page
4.
FIGURE 6c
FIGURE 6b
8
FIGURE 6g
FIGURE 6f
FIGURE 6d
As shown in figure 6a(3) below, pass the long pin
through the mast base. There is a small spring loaded
ball lock that will keep the pin captive in the mast base.
For safety, the pin should remain in the mast base while
sailing.
FIGURE 6a(3)
WARNING!!
Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,
trailer or sail the boat near overhead power
lines. Mast contact with a power line
could be fatal.

The halyard line should be
running from the top of the
mast directly to the bow fitting.
Carefully let go of mast to be
sure that it will stay upright. If
not, add tension to halyard
line and re-cleat.
This will hold mast in the
upright position (see figure
6h) while you get off the tram-
poline to fasten the bridle
wires to the bow fittings.
If you have someone helping
you rig, you can hold the mast
upright while they follow the
next step.
See that the forestay wire is not tangled and runs direct-
ly from mast tang fitting. Using the quick snap hooks on
the ends of the bridle wires, attach to one bow and then
to the other as in figure 6i and 6j.
"SEE CLUB" Use
the small plastic balls to grip and pull down on the bridle
wires.
Length adjustment of the forestay
(figure 6k) is made to tension the
mast wires. Tighten the forestay until
all wires are somewhat rigid and with-
out slop. Use the halyard line attached
to the bow tang and cleated tightly to
hold the mast well forward when mak-
ing these adjustments. Release one
bow bridle snap hook. Make adjust-
ments to the clevis pin location in the
adjuster and then reattach the bridle
hook to the bow fitting. Release the
halyard from the bow fitting and repo-
sition it down the rear of the mast and secure to the
cleat.
Once this adjustment is made you can assemble and
disassemble using only the quick snap hooks to the bow
fittings unless the rig becomes loose after use. NOTE: It
is normal for the shroud on the down wind (leeward
side) to be loose while sailing.
7. INSTALLING
THE SAIL BATTENS
Unfold the sail and lay it out on the trampoline. There
will be a small bundle of thin lines tied to the top of the
sail. These are the batten tension lines. Tie the batten
tension lines to one of the the small grommets at the
end of each batten pocket as diagramed in figure 7a
(one to each batten pocket). Tie the lines using a bow-
line knot as found in the "knots" diagramed on page 4.
It is best to tie the lines all to one side of the sail. Insert
each batten (shortest batten at the top to longest batten
at the bottom of the sail).
Note that the batten ends have a "V" jam cleat mold-
ed into them. These "V" jam cleats will keep the ten-
sion line from slipping in only one direction. Note
the hollowed-out side of the cleats. Pull the line
from the flush side toward the hollowed side.
The upper two battens are narrower and have a differ-
ent cleat shape. To be sure these cleats work correctly,
position these so that the hollowed out side of the cap
faces the bowline that you have tied to the sail grommet.
Position the larger caps so that the hollowed sides face
away from each knot.
Following the diagram in figure 7a, lace the tension
lines through each batten end cap. Pass the line
through the hole in the cap then through the grommet
on the opposite side. For the smaller caps, pass the line
over the "V" cleat, pull tension forcing the batten into the
pocket, then pull the line into the cleat to hold it. For the
larger caps, pass the line through the second hole in the
cap, then pass the line through the first grommet and
back to the "V" cleat. Pull tension on the line forcing the
batten into the pocket and cleat it. Tie a small figure 8
knot in the end of each line to prevent the battens from
falling from the sail if the line releases from the cleat.
Tension each batten so that the batten is well seated
and the wrinkles in the batten pockets are removed.
Excessive batten tension will cause the sail to be more
difficult to handle.
FIGURE 7a
9
FIGURE 6h
Batten pocket
Start here with a
bowline knot
Cleat at mouth of each tip
Hollowed-out
side of tip
FIGURE 6i FIGURE 6j
FIGURE 6k

DOWNHAUL ADJUSTMENTS
The downhaul should be tensioned just enough to
remove the horizontal wrinkles in the sail luff (forward
area). The boat will perform best with light tension in
light air and a bit more when the wind is stronger.
8. RAISING THE SAIL
Place the sail in the center of the trampoline with the
exposed batten ends to the rear. The front of the sail
has what is called a "luff rope" running the length of it.
This rope is fed into the mast "luff" track when raising
the sail.
As shown in figure
8a, hook the halyard
to the top of the sail.
Pass the tail end of
the halyard line
through the thimble
that holds the halyard
hook and tie a knot.
This will create a con-
tinuous loop with the
halyard such as a flag
halyard. This will
allow you to pull the
halyard hook back down the mast if the hook disen-
gages from the sail while hoisting. Feed the top portion
of sail into the mast track opening, then begin pulling on
the halyard line. Use caution to be sure the sail feeds
smoothly into the mast while raising. Hoist the sail all
the way to the top of the mast. It will be necessary to
help feed the sail into the track while hoisting.
As shown in figure
8b, there is a two fin-
gered hook at the top
of the mast. The hal-
yard has a small bead
of metal which is held
by this hook when
fully raised.
When fully raised, pull
the halyard line, while
still holding tension,
forward and away from the mast (figure 8b). Keep the
line centered with the mast. Then, pull the line back
against the mast. This will place the bead below the two
fingered hook. Release the halyard to engage the hook
(figure 8c). Repeat the process if the sail does not
remain at the top of the mast. The line must be centered
with the mast to engage the hook. Tie the halyard line to
the mast cleat.
10. MAINSHEET
Hook the mainsheet to the
"clew" grommet at the rear of
the sail as shown in
figure 10.
9. DOWNHAUL
Locate the downhaul line. Tie it to the sail "tack" grom-
met near the mast (when finished sailing, leave it tied
here). Pass the line down and through the center of the
cleat mounted in the luff track of the mast. Run the line
up to and through the "tack" grommet. Run the line back
down to the cleat. Tension it and then tie to the cleat as
shown in "knots" on page 4.
11. RUDDER
ASSEMBLY
Position the rudders as shown
in Figure 11a. There is a left
and a right rudder. Note the
arms extending from the upper
rudder castings. These "upper
rudder" castings have an
angle molded into them. The
arms should be angled
towards the center of the boat.
You will also see a colored tab on the end of each arm,
one green, one red. The red tab indicates the left rudder
and the green the right.
As shown in figure 11,
line up the rudder pintles
(metal pegs on the hulls)
with the rudder castings
(holes with plastic bush-
ings). Push the rudder
castings down onto the
pintles.
The rudder arm may
need to be unlocked to
allow easy positioning.
Insert the retainer pins to
lock the rudders
in place. The pins will
prevent the rudders from
falling off the boat in the
event of a capsize.
The rudders are locked in the down position by pushing
the rudder arm aft which will seat the rudder against the
lower casting. Push the arm down to engage the locking
cam.
To release, lift the arm, then pull the arm forward until
the rudder is in the "up" position. Place the arm down to
engage the upper casting with the lower casting.
Beaching will automatically release the rudders.
FIGURE 8b FIGURE 8c
FIGURE 11
FIGURE 10
10
FIGURE 8a
Hook
Retainer pin

12. TILLER CROSSBAR
The rudder arms are connected by a bar called the tiller
crossbar. Position the crossbar between the two rud-
ders with the elbow connector spring buttons facing
down. Slide each connector partly into the tiller arms.
Depress the stainless steel buttons and fully insert the
elbow joints into the rudder arms as shown in figure 12.
The buttons will snap into the holes in the rudder arms
to secure connection. A small amount of rotation of the
connector may help seat the buttons in the tiller arm
holes.
Your Wave is now ready to sail!
Please read the sections in the follow-
ing pages regarding safety and sailing
the Wave. This additional information
will help you have more fun with your
new boat!
11
FIGURE 12
CLUB WAVE RIGGING
The Club Wave is the same as the standard Wave with
the following differences as noted within the standard
assembly manual.
2/3. CROSSBARS AND TRAMPOLINE
ASSEMBLY
The CLUB WAVE incorporates a HOBIE standard three
piece trampoline assembly with lace lines in the center
and rear of the trampoline as shown in figure CLUB1 on
the following page.
Slide the tramp halves into the hull/tramp tracks on each
hull (grommets towards the center and rear of the boat).
The use of soap or spray silicone to lube the tramp bolt
rope is required. Slide the rear lace strip into the rear
crossbar.
Feed the forward edges of the trampoline halfs into the
forward crossbar while inserting the crossbars into the
hulls. Start with one side. (ie.) Insert the rear crossbar
into the left hull. Feed the left tramp into the forward
crossbar then insert the forward crossbar into the left
hull. Lift the right hull into position. Working at the front,
then rear, then front and back and forth, work the right
hull onto the crossbars while feeding the tramp into the
forward crossbar until the crossbars are fully seated to
their stops.
Three lace lines are provided. The longer lace line (17')
will be tied to the forward of the center lace grommets
with a bowline. Lace the line through all of the center
grommets to the rear of the trampoline as shown (by
number) in the illustration. Lace the rear of the tramp
starting from the outboard ends towards the center.
Tension all lace lines and tie off with half hitches at the
rear/center of the trampoline.
5. MAST WIRES
As shown in figure CLUB2 on the following page, the
Club Wave uses seven hole adjusters at the base of the
shrouds and the hull connection rather than the hooks
used in the standard model. Install the adjusters to the
hulls and the shrouds to the seven-hole section of the
adjuster. Set the shrouds at the top hole for the initial
mast stepping. The bridle wires attach to the bow tang
(pad eyes). To install the bridle wires: remove one
screw and loosen the other on each bow tang. Turn the
tangs to insert the thimbles and refasten the screws.
The bridle connection to the forward adjuster uses a
standard screw shackle. Pin the forestay to the top hole
for initial mast stepping. After stepping the mast, adjust-
ments can be made to tension the wires and for raking
the mast aft or forward. The top location on the shroud
adjuster is standard. Positioning the shrouds lower will
rake (lean) the mast aft. This can help handling in higher
winds.
There is a limit to the amount of mast rake aft that is
possible. This will be seen when the main sail block on
the sail clew nears or touches the block attached to the
rear crossbar when fully sheeted while sailing. Too
much mast rake will not allow you to sheet the sail prop-
erly. It may also be more difficult to tack the boat as the
mast forward design is intended to help bring the bows
through the wind when tacking.

FIGURE CLUB1
FIGURE CLUB2
12

sail and course adjustments above using the "tell tails"
to get the most performance out of the sail for all angles
of sailing. The tell tails react to air flowing over the sail
and will help you see that the sail is pulled in too tight or
too loosely. If you pull the sail in too tight, you will stall
the sail power. Ease the sail out until it luffs, then pull it
in just a little until it stops luffing. You will adjust the trim
whenever the wind shifts direction or you change
course.
Refer to the sail trim diagram below for approximate sail
settings for the different points of sail or directions you
SAILING YOUR WAVE
Safe and sane guideline for the beginner; an easy
review for the experienced.
Always wear a life jacket when boating.
BALANCING THE BOAT
When sailing, sit on the upwind side of the boat (wind on
your back) just in front of the tiller facing the sail.
Balance your weight further outboard as the boat begins
to tip or heel over with the wind in the sails. Tuck one
foot under the hiking strap for balance. Use your hand
that is forward to hold and control the mainsheet. Use
your hand that is aft to steer.
STEERING
Steer the boat by pushing the tiller away from you to
turn towards the wind. Pull the tiller towards you to turn
away from the wind. Keep the movement of the tiller to a
minimum to prevent over-steering. This will help you
keep the boat moving in a straight line as you pay atten-
tion to other watercraft and sail adjustments.
SAIL POWER
Face the sail in order to pay close attention to the trim or
adjustment of the sail. When the front of the sail, just
behind the mast, luffs or flutters in the breeze, you lose
power. To start moving, pull the sail in just enough to
stop the sail from luffing. There are also short ribbons
hanging on either side of the sail. Follow the diagram of
WIND
COMING
ABOUT
FALLING
OFF
HEADING UP
WIND
CAN'T SAIL IN
THIS AREA
Close Hauled
Close Hauled
Close Reach
Close Reach
Medium Reach
Broad Reach
Medium Reach
Broad Reach
Downwind Run
BASIC SAILING AND POINTS OF SAIL
13

into deep enough water to lower the rudders. It is possi-
ble to launch in shallow water with the rudders partly up.
Try not to steer with too much force on the rudders until
you lock them in the down position. Keep the sail loose
and trimmed out completely. Turn the boat away from
the wind and push off into deeper water then hop on.
Once aboard, trim the sail in quickly to get the boat
moving forward and steer away from the wind slightly to
prevent stalling into the wind.
When launching from a beach where the wind is blowing
from the beach towards the water you simply keep the
boat pointed into the wind. Drift backwards with the rud-
ders in the up position. Drift the boat away from the
beach backwards and hop on when floating completely.
Stay forward as the boat drifts into deeper water. You
can hold the sail out to catch wind backwards to
increase reverse speed. Then move to the rear and
lower the rudders. It will be easiest to lower only one
rudder while moving backwards. Then lower the other
when the boat begins to move forward again. Be aware
of the intended direction you wish to sail when lowering
the rudder and steer the boat as the rudder drops into
the water. There will be a lot of force on the rudder to
turn one way or the other when going backwards. Plan
ahead and steer the rudders so that they will be pointing
in that direction before dropping it into the water. Steer
the boat while going backwards so the bow turns away
from the wind and toward the direction you wish to sail.
As the sail begins to fill with wind, the boat will slow then
begin to move forward. Trim in the sail and off you go.
RIGHTING THE BOAT
A 15 foot length of "righting line" is provided with the
boat. Tie each end to the outboard ends of the forward
crossbar passing through the eye straps. Tie off with
bowline knots. Store the excess line in the trampoline
pocket.
If you tip the boat
over, stay with the
boat. The boat will
not sink and is
easy to right. It is
not necessary, but
it is easier, to right
the boat when the
bow and the mast
are pointed into
the wind as in the
following diagram.
There will be less
wind resistance
and better control
in this position. Be
sure the mainsheet
is released, then
swim around to the
will be sailing. Note the "can't sail zone". You cannot sail
in this direction due to the fact that the sail will luff con-
stantly when pointed into the wind. If you get stuck in
irons (or stop pointed into the wind) you will need to
reverse the rudder and push the sail forward to back-
wind. This will back the boat up. Reverse the rudders
and let the sail out until the boat is positioned more
across the wind (close reach). Then you can correctly
trim the sail once again and start moving forward.
TURNING
To tack or turn the boat into and across the wind to the
opposite direction (also known as "coming about"), fol-
low the points of sail guide illustration and take the boat
to the close hauled point of sail. This is when you are
nearly 35 degrees from sailing straight into the wind.
With the boat moving forward and not stalling, push the
tiller away from you slowly. When the boat is pointing
straight into the wind the boat will become level. Ease
the mainsheet trim out just a little. At this time move
your body to the other side of the boat, switch hands
with tiller and mainsheet and begin to bring the rudder
back to straight. As the boat comes across the wind and
falls off onto the opposite, close hauled point of sail,
bring the tiller all the way back to the straight position
and pull the mainsail back in for the proper sail trim. If
you stall pointing into the wind and you cannot steer the
boat, refer back to the sail power description concerning
getting stuck in irons.
When sailing downwind, the turn from one point of sail
across to the other is called a jibe. The jibe is completed
by turning away from the wind (falling off) to the oppo-
site point of sail rather than into the wind as when tack-
ing. Care must be taken when attempting a jibe as the
boat will be at full power and you cannot easily de-
power it without turning back into the wind. Also, be
aware that the boat will be less stable in this maneuver
as the sail will now have to swing clear across from fully
out one side of the boat to fully out the other.
To start a jibe, turn the boat away from the wind and let
the sail out slowly. Keep the turn going at a steady rate
and begin pulling the sail back in as the boat nears the
straight downwind direction. This will help prevent the
sail from slamming all the way across when the sail fills
from the opposite side. Duck below the sail to avoid get-
ting hit as the wind fills the sail from the opposite side
and swings across the boat. Attempt to control the
speed of the sail while it crosses the deck by maintain-
ing some tension on the mainsheet. Then ease the
mainsheet out quickly as the boat turns past the down-
wind direction onto the new point of sail. Trim the sail
correctly for the desired point of sail.
LAUNCHING THE BOAT
Launching the boat is easiest when the boat can be
pointed into the wind to keep it de-powered and floated 14

bottom of the boat. Climb up on the hull and stand up.
Using the 15' righting line provided that is tied to the
front crossbar at each end, hold the line while slowly
leaning back away from the trampoline. Lean to approxi-
mately 45 degrees for best leverage. As the mast and
sail lift out of the water and the upper hull begins to drop
back into the water, drop down to your knees then into
the water. Hold onto the righting line near the crossbar
or the crossbar itself near the hull that you were stand-
ing on. This will prevent the hull from being lifted into the
air by momentum which could cause the boat to capsize
once again. Be well aware of the hull and crossbar com-
ing down over your head. Holding the crossbar or right-
ing line will also insure that you remain with the boat
when it is righted. Climb aboard and continue sailing.
DOCKING
Docking the Wave properly will prevent damage. Always
dock and rig on the leeward side of a dock (the side the
wind reaches last). Come in slowly and always be
aware of the wind direction so you can properly de-
power the boat when needed. The stronger the wind the
more difficult the docking will be. Until you feel confi-
dent, you may want to practice with a friend who
will remain on the dock and help slow you down
if necessary.
BEACH LANDINGS
Landing on a beach is simple. The idea is to reach the
beach in the point of sail nearest straight into the wind
as possible. This will assure that you can properly de-
power the sail once beached.
Approaching a beach when the wind is blowing from the
beach out towards the water will require some planning
so that you maintain power. Then turn into shore just
before the hulls or rudders touch bottom. Plan so the
final tack towards the location you choose to land is the
tack that is nearest straight into the wind. Get a little
closer to the beach than you need on the pervious tack
to account for wind shifts in direction and speed. This
will give you a little room for error. This will allow you to
point a little further away from the wind after the tack to
gain speed before heading up into the beach to de-
power at the last moment.
When approaching a beach when the wind is blowing
onshore, sail in towards the beach from either side of the
landing spot. Sail in just short of touching the bottom with
the rudders. Allow some distance to turn the boat out
towards the water and into the wind just out from the
landing spot. Turn sharply to head into the wind and stall
the boat. Raise the rudders and drift back onto the beach.
RUDDER TUNING
You may adjust the rake of your rudder blades on your
Hobie Wave. The amount of rake in a rudder blade
affects the "feel" at the tiller. Basically, more forward
blade rake neutralizes the pull on the tiller and less for-
ward rake increases the pull on the tiller. Tuning blades
for a comfortable feel is a matter of individual preference
but a close to neutral "feel" generally provides the best
steering. The following sketches are of a Hobie 16 rud-
der assembly but the adjustments are the same. (See
sketch A.)
1) The first step in making any rudder rake adjustment
is to determine the existing rake. This is done with the
rudder assembly hanging
on the boat's transom,
blade down and locked.
Using a straight edge or
snap line, extend the cen-
terline of the rudder pivot
pins down, across the
leading edge of the blade
and draw a pencil line
along that length. Measure
the distance from the pen-
cil line to the most forward
spot 12" down the
blade from the bottom
of the casting. See
sketch A.
Rudder blade rake is pre-set at the factory to 1-1/8". This
amount will be best for the average sailor and is a good
starting point from which to begin any adjustments.
15
Sketch A
1-1/8"
12"
Forward for less
pull on the tiller
Aft for more pull on
the tiller
2) To make any adjustment to the rake, unlock the tiller
arm from the rudder housing and leave it unlocked.
3) If you wish to increase the amount of forward rake in
the rudder blade, turn the rake adjusting screw counter-
clockwise using a 3/16" Allen wrench. Determine the
increase in the rake by extending a new line from the
centerline of the pivot pins. Re-measure the distance
from the pencil line to the leading edge. Continue to
adjust and measure until you have the desired amount
of forward rake. See sketch B on the following page
for the location of the adjusting screw.
Always keep the boat pointed into the wind
while beached and keep the sail trimmed
out and un-cleated.

Once the rake is changed,
the breakaway tension
should be rechecked. The
tension may be adjusted
by turning the 3/4"
internal screw in the
housing. The screw
tensions an internal
spring. (see sketch
E) Turn it clockwise
to increase and
counter clockwise to
decrease the tension.
6) Hobie Cat rudder
blades are preset to break
away at 17-26 pounds
by testing with a line
around the rudder blade
seven inches above the
lowest tip of the blade.
See sketch D.
Sketch E
Standard =
17-26 pounds
Sketch D
IMPORTANT CAR TOPPING
CAUTIONS
Caution is required when car-topping the Wave or any
object on top of a car. Common sense must be followed
to ensure that the roof rack that is used will handle the
weight of the boat. Roof rack manufacturer's weight limi-
tations and tie down guidelines must be strictly followed.
If in doubt, the best course to follow is to trailer the boat.
The following are important rules to follow...
❶"Roof racks" that come as standard equip-
ment on cars are not designed to handle
heavy loads. Choose an accessory roof
rack with weight ratings that will handle the
Wave or parts. If in doubt check with the
manufacturer.
❷Make sure the roof rack manufacturer's
weight limitations are followed.
❸Carefully follow the roof rack manufacturer's
directions for attaching the rack to your car.
❹Always securely tie all parts carried on the
rack to the roof rack.
❺Always use a good quality line of at least 1/4"
diameter for tie-downs. Avoid using polypropy-
lene line as it does not hold knots well.
❻Make sure to always tie the front and back of each
hull to the front and back bumper of your car (see
diagram below) in addition to other tie downs.
❼Drivers should use extra caution due to the higher
profile of the vehicle and additional windage, espe-
cially when related to side winds.
16
Sketch C
Screw
4) If you wish to
decrease the amount
of forward rake in the
rudder blade, turn the
rake adjusting screw
clockwise Using a
3/16" Allen wrench,
check the decrease
in the rake by the
procedure in step 3
above .
5) Next, while holding the rudder forward against the
lower casting, carefully latch the tiller arm down onto rud-
der housing. Loosen the adjusting screw on top of the
tiller arm about 3/4 turn. Slide the adjusting screw for-
ward (toward bow of boat) until it stops, then retighten.
See sketch C.
Screw
Sketch B

TRAILERING
CAUTION: Boat and mast should be securely attached
to trailer with adequate tie-down straps. Failure to do so
could cause extensive damage or serious injury!
LOADING YOUR TRAILER
The weight of the boat, equipment and additional gear
should never exceed the manufacturer's rated weight
capacity. Proper distribution of the load is of vital impor-
tance. Too much weight on the hitch will cause "tail
dragging" of the towing vehicle, impairing steering and
raising headlights into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Too
little or negative weight on the hitch, and the trailer will
sway or "fishtail". The solution to proper distribution is
often adjusting movable gear.
TOWING
Extra caution is necessary when towing any trailer. The
heavier the rig, the more time required to accelerate,
pass, and stop. For this reason, the maximum speed for
vehicles with trailers is less than without a trailer in most
states. A long rig requires a larger turning radius. Curbs
and obstructions should be given wide clearance. Most
boats on trailers obstruct the rear view of the driver.
When this happens, an additional rear view mirror on
the right side of the towing vehicle is required by law.
The trailer boatman should be familiar with traffic and
highway laws relating to the towing of trailers. Towing a
Hobie has particular hazards that should be mentioned.
A Hobie is very wide. Obstacles should be given plenty
of room when you are passing them. Tie down straps or
lashings should be of sufficient size and diameter and
placed on all four corners.
The mast support on a trailer is subject to a lot of side-
to-side motion and consequently may fatigue where it is
welded to the trailer. All this can be reduced by tying a
line from each bow to the mast support. This will stiffen
the rig up and prolong the life of the trailer.
LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVING
Prepare boat for launching at the top of the ramp or
parking facility. Remove all tie-down straps, check boat
plugs and fasten boat painter. Do not release winch line
until boat is in the water. Back trailer to the left if possi-
ble; backing left gives better launching visibility. Avoid
dunking wheel bearings wherever possible. Never leave
the towing vehicle unattended on the ramp with only the
parking brake set. If vehicle must be left while on the
ramp, set transmission in "park" or first gear, in addition
to setting the parking brake. In retrieving your boat,
make sure that the boat is properly placed on the trailer.
Pull trailer up steadily to prevent spinning the wheels.
MAINTENANCE
Lights: Most state laws require two red taillights on the
rear that may be combined with the stop and turn sig-
nals. Vehicles over 80 inches in width require clearance
lights. If lights are dunked, waterproof light fixtures
should be used. If water is allowed to enter, the lamp
may crack and short out the entire system. Water also
promotes contact corrosion. Always carry spare lamps.
The wire coupling to the towing vehicle should be high
enough to stay dry. Never rely on the trailer hitch for
ground connection. Four-pole connectors should be
used.
The mast should not extend over three feet behind the
rear light assembly.
Wheels: Tires should ALWAYS be inflated to manufac-
turer's recommended pressure. Always carry a spare
wheel and a jack that fit the boat trailer. If wheel bear-
ings are always dunked, waterproof bearings and caps
should be considered. If water is allowed into the hub,
lubricating grease will float away and bearings will burn
out or seize, causing damage and a safety hazard.
Waterproofed bearings should be inspected prior to
each boating season, others more often. Special care
should be given when traveling on unimproved road-
ways with small diameter wheels.
If a spare wheel is not available, a spare wheel bearing
set should be taken on long trips in case the grease seal
has been broken.
FRAME AND ROLLERS
Rust should not be allowed to accumulate. Remove rust
and repaint with anti-rust paint. Some trailers offer gal-
vanized coating to prevent rust. Rollers should roll freely
and should not have checks, breaks or flat spots.
TOWING VEHICLE
Most vehicles are limited in towing capacity. Towing
heavy loads places extra demands on the engine, trans-
mission, brakes and other systems vital to the vehicle.
Towing "packages" are available through most auto
dealers and should be considered for heavy boats.
17
❽Always stop and check the tie-downs shortly after
beginning any trip and check often on long trips.
Check for lines that may become loose or worn.
Not all racks are designed to carry a load the size of the
Wave. Some racks may require carrying only a por-
tion of the boat parts on the roof and the remaining
parts in the trunk.
Weight -
Two Wave hulls 155 lbs.
Mast 30 lbs.
Tramp and Xbars 31 lbs.
Rudder assembly 29 lbs.
Sail with battens 12 lbs.

HOBIE CAT
4925 Oceanside Blvd.
Oceanside, CA. 92056
Phone [phone] Fax [phone]
For your nearest HOBIE dealer
or
for help and information call:
1 (800) HOBIE - 49
Revised 10/96 #3845-0010
CAUTION / SAFETY TIPS
•Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,
trailer or sail the boat near overhead power
lines. Contact with a power line could be fatal.
•Sail to your experience. Do not try to do
more than you can. Do not take the Wave out
in the surf and do not head out for the ocean
unless you are a real professional.
•Wear a life jacket. Wearing life vests while
sailing is important for everyone. Due to the
large number of novice sailors that have pur-
chased the Wave, it is even more important to
review this safety issue. Wearing a life vest is
a smart thing to do. Also, a sailboat could sail
away by itself if a person were to fall over-
board. The best advice to a sailor is to stay
with the boat. If they happen to fall overboard,
or when righting the boat, they should hold
onto the boat and not let it get away.
•Learn the right-of-way rules and when in
doubt, give way to others.
•Adhere to car roof rack manufacturer's
weight limitations and tie down sugges-
tions when car-topping the Wave. (The
combined weight of the Wave hulls and mast
is approx. 150 lbs.)
•When trailering the Wave be sure to tie the
boat and all the loose parts to the trailer in
a secure manner. Stop and check the tie
downs often.
•Hobie Cat does not recommend leaving the
Wave in the water on a mooring.
Accelerated wear to the boat and rigging will
be experienced. Damage to the hull material is
possible. Limitation of the mast rotation and
tensioning of the rigging are required to lessen
this wear. Inspect rigging often and tape rig-
ging rings and shackles to prevent loosening.