Hotpoint WMA 32 Series Instruction manual

Home Repair Manuals Hotpoint WMA32 Dismantle & Repair
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Unofficial
Home Repair
Workshop Manual
for
Hotpoint
WMA 32 Series
Washing Machine
(1200 spin)
‘Dismantle & Repair’
For Trade and Home user
Copyright © D Smith 2007
Disclaimer
All the entries in this document have been compiled from information gained over the years by different
engineers whilst working on these machines. All photos and artwork have been produced solely for this
series of pdf files, and are for recognition purposes only. Any similarity to any other publication in part or
whole is by way of an accident rather than design, and should any such oversight be brought to our
attention we will examine it in full and if necessary alter or remove the said section. This manual was
developed independent to the manufacturer of this product and no connection to them is inferred or
implied. Although a majority of the faults are universal to most makes and models the solutions do vary.
Whilst every effort has been made to insure the information in this document is correct, we cannot hold
ourselves responsible for any omissions or changes you may encounter. All the procedures listed in this
manual are intended for individuals that are competent in both electro and mechanical repair work, but as
we have no way of knowing the competence or capabilities of everyone using this manual, we cannot be
held responsible for any lose, Damage or injury which may occur. It remains the sole responsibility of each
person to work in a safe and sensible manner. We stress that the appliance should be disconnected from the
main power supply when any electrical testing is carried out and that all sharp edges are covered before
working on the machine.

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CONTENTS
1 INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................4
1.1 PREFACE ...........................................................................................................................4
1.2 TOOLS REQUIRED............................................................................................................5
1.2.1 HOW TO USE YOUR METER ............................................................................................6
1.2.2 MOTOR TESTING.............................................................................................................7
•
••
•To Test the Armature:...................................................................................................7
•
••
•To Test the Field Windings:..........................................................................................8
•
••
•To Test the Tacho:..........................................................................................................8
1.3 DATE CODE INFORMATION.............................................................................................8
1.4 HOW A WASHING MACHINE WORKS..............................................................................9
1.5 COMPONENTS AND SOME ATTRIBUTED FAULTS..........................................................10
1.6 HOTPOINT HOME PAGE FOR USERS’HANDBOOK........................................................11
2. WHAT PARTSLOOKLIKE ANDTHEIR FUNCTIONS;IN BREIF...............12
2.1 Control Module.............................................................................................................12
2.2 Pressure Chamber (Old & new).................................................................................13
2.3 Pressure Switch.............................................................................................................14
2.4 Fill Valves.......................................................................................................................15
2.5 Door Switch...................................................................................................................16
2.6 Heater & Cut-out with Thermistor...........................................................................17
2.7 Heater Guard................................................................................................................18
2.8 Tacho Generator / Motor............................................................................................19
2.9 Pump...............................................................................................................................20
2.10 Sump Filter-(Old & New) ..........................................................................................21
2.11 Stabilizer Leg & Peg...................................................................................................22
2.12 Bearings & Water Seal...............................................................................................23
2.13 Belt.................................................................................................................................24
MACHINE DISMANTLE AND REASSEMBLY BY STAGES........................................25
(1) Top Cover…...................................................................................................................25
(2) Soap dispenser Draw….. ..............................................................................................25
(3) Facia Panel…..................................................................................................................25
(4) Control Module..............................................................................................................26
(5) Front Panel.....................................................................................................................27
(6) Door Seal from container.............................................................................................28
(7) Balance weights..............................................................................................................28
(8) Interlock/Door switch ...................................................................................................28
(9) Soap dispenser…............................................................................................................29
(10) Pressure switch…........................................................................................................29
(11) Solenoid valves…….....................................................................................................30
(12) Pump…..........................................................................................................................31
(13) Sump / Pressure chamber…......................................................................................32
(14) Motor…….....................................................................................................................33
(15) Stabilizer……...............................................................................................................34
(16) Heater............................................................................................................................35
(17) Pulley.............................................................................................................................35
(18) Suspension springs ......................................................................................................36
(19) Container / Outer drum……….................................................................................36

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(20) Inner drum ...................................................................................................................37
(21) Bearings.........................................................................................................................38
(22)Door Assembly..............................................................................................................39
INNER DRUM LIFTERS.........................................................................................................40
(23)Early Type .....................................................................................................................40
(24)Later type…...................................................................................................................40
SOME COMMON FAULTS AND SOLUTIONS.................................................................41
The machine does not switch on........................................................................................41
Door seal has mouldy black marks on it..........................................................................42
Can’t open the door after wash has finished...................................................................42
Machine will not always spin properly ............................................................................42
The drum is stuck and will not turn.................................................................................43
Have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash..........................................43
The drum turns before any water has gone in................................................................43
The belt keeps coming off...................................................................................................43
Drum stopped.......................................................................................................................43
Noisy ......................................................................................................................................44
Machine is over filling.........................................................................................................44
Machine keeps filling ..........................................................................................................44
Not taking in fabric conditioner........................................................................................44
Water boils............................................................................................................................44
Noisy on spin but fine on wash..........................................................................................45
Machine is banging and the door seal is twisting during wash....................................45
Drum lopsided......................................................................................................................45
Bad wash results..................................................................................................................45
The LEDs light during a program and it will not restart .............................................45
The machine gives two short spins then stops.................................................................45
The Start button does not work ........................................................................................46
COMMON FAULTS (FLASHING LIGHTS).......................................................................46
COMPONENT TEST (AUTO)................................................................................................47
COMPONENT TEST (AUTO) CODES.................................................................................48
COMPONENT TEST (MANUALLY)....................................................................................49
WIRING CONNECTIONS.......................................................................................................50

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1INTRODUCTION
1.1 Preface
During the development of this manual it has become clear that a percentage of the
components have changed. Although the model number may be the same the independent
manufacturers of parts and there fittings are different on some machines to those on
another. Therefore it is quite possible that some of the information given may not
necessarily apply to your machine, likewise not all the photos will exactly resemble the
components on your appliance.
The dismantling and reassembly of the machine should be roughly the same, except in
the case of cold fill only machines; they do not have a hot valve. The basic faults and
there solutions are also fairly universal, however some of the more complex problems
and solutions may differ, due in part to the design and construction of the associated
components.
This manual is not intended to be a course in washing machine repairs or cover all the
faults associated with this particular model, but by referring to it may save you time and
added expense on less involved faults, or at the very least give you an insight as to what
the engineer is talking about, because it can be a bit of a task knowing a good engineer
from a dodgy one. So how can you tell them apart? The short answer is, unless you are
an engineer yourself you probably can’t ……well not at first anyway.
Here are two scenarios;
(1)
A good engineer inspects your machine and decides it needs a part he does not have. He
tells you he has to order it and leaves. Because of a delivery delay he returns a week later
and fits the part. While he is doing the normal functional check on your machine he
notices the water level is high so he cleans out the pressure chamber, then writes out the
invoice. You pay the bill but are not happy because you had to wait a week for the repair.
When he leaves your machine has been thoroughly tested and should work well for some
time. You however rate his quality of work as bad because of the extra time you were
without a machine.(Not his fault)
(2)
A bad engineer inspects your machine and has not got a clue what is wrong with it, so he
tells you he must order a part (possibly one he already has on the van) just to get out of
the house, so he can confer with a more knowledgeable colleague, and ask what would be
wrong with your machine. He returns the next day and fits the second-hand part he had
on the van, whether it is needed or not, as well as a few other bits, just to bump the price
up. No other checks or tests on the machine are carried out because that would take up
valuable time and a different fault rectified now would mean you would not need him
next week when it breaks down again. He hands you a very large bill but you are happy
because your machine was only out of action for a day. You rate this engineer as very
good.

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1.2 Tools Required
If this is your first attempt at repairing your washing machine, here are a few tools you
will need. Although a neon screwdriver and pair of pliers may be good enough to change
a plug, you will need a few more to work on your washing machine.
123456 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
(ITEMS NOT TO SCALE)
(1) Hammer (For Bearing replacement)
(2) Long nosed pliers (For refitting of zipper type seal restraint)
(3) Pliers (Multitude of uses)
(4) Wire snips (For cutting cable ties and wire)
(5) Mole Grips (As Pliers)
(6) Electrical Thin screwdriver (For removal of Door seal restraints)
(7) Multi Meter (For all electrical testing)
(8) 13mm ring spanner (For removal of stabilizer leg pegs)
(9) Ratchet (To work with 11 & 12,13 or 14)
(10) Screwdriver with removable bits; Star bits & Philips bit(The star bits are for
the lid and pump housing the Philips bit is for all the other screws)
(11) Extension bar (To work with 9 & 12,13 or 14)
(12) 13mm socket (For motor bolts, balance weights and around the container)
(13) 10mm socket (For heater nut)
(14) 8mm socket (For water shield on heater) If it is fitted.
(15) Iron bar (To be used in conjunction with item 1; for removal of bearings and
stabilizer leg pegs)
(16) Cable Ties (For securing cables and flexible pipes)
Not all of these tools will be needed at the same time, in fact you may only need items
10, 6, 7 & 3 but it is always better to have more tools than less.

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1.2.1 How to use your Meter
This is the only piece of equipment we will give instructions on how to use, mainly
because if you have never had to use one before you may not be aware of the different
settings and how they work.
There are three settings
OHMS depicted by this symbol Ω
MegOHMS depicted by this symbol MΩ
kilOHMS depicted by this symbol kΩ
The two main ones you will use are Ohms and MegOhms, and they are used when testing
for continuity in the wiring or for resistance in components electronics.
Ohms: Should you need to know if there is a break in a circuit or wire, connect one of
the meter leads to one end of the circuit/cable to be tested and the other lead to the other
end. The meter reading should be 0.5 Ωor lower. If the needle goes right across the dial
this would indicate a break in the circuit. This test is called a continuity test and is used to
check for defective connections, cables, circuits etc.
MegOhms: This tests if there is a breakdown in the wiring insulation anywhere in the
system.
Set your meter to MegOhms MΩand connect one of the leads to an earth, this can be the
plug or the cabinet or any point that is earthed on the machine. Connect the other meter
lead to either the live terminal on the component to be tested or the neutral. The meter
reading should be above 2MΩ. If it is lower than this i.e. the needle goes right across the
dial or even halfway across there is an earth leakage. This is not classed as a dead short,
where the fuse in the plug would blow and neither is it enough to give you a fatal electric
shock, but will trip some milliamp fuse boxes and possibly interfere with the smooth
running of your machine. This is called an insulation test, and one of the most common
positive readings come from the motor, where carbon from the brushes builds up inside
the motor housing and forms a bridge between the casing and the wiring, which then trips
the milliamp fuse box. This is easily rectified by cleaning out the motor housing, but
earth leakage between cables can be harder to locate. Check anywhere they may rub such
as the cabinet or balance weights, sharp edges or corners.
Do not do this test on the module or you will damage some of the circuits within it.

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1.2.2 Motor Testing
It is possible to test the separate parts on the motor via the wiring which connects onto
the module. All the relevant connection points are numbered as shown in the ‘component
wiring connection’ page.
To Test the Armature:
Set your Multi-meter to ohms Ωand connect one probe into terminal 9 on the module
connector block, the other probe should go into terminal 8. Press the button and you
should get a reading of about 1.5Ω.This reading is very much dependant on the condition
of the motor brushes (Brand new brushes that have not been worn in will give a far
higher reading, Possibly up to 3Ω.If this is the case you can recheck the armature direct,
by placing a probe from your meter either side and touching the commutators at the same
points where the brushes touch. This test will give a more accurate reading.
(Module connector block)
Only terminals 10-4 are for the motor
If there is no reading it could mean the brushes need replacing or there is a break in one
of the wires or the armature is faulty.

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To Test the Field Windings:
Set the multi-meter to ohms Ωand place one probe into terminal 7 on the module
connecting block and the other in terminal 6 (see picture on previous page). The reading
should be about 1.25Ω. No reading would indicate faulty windings or a break in the wire.
To test the split field (Only on machines over 1000 spin) Place one meter probe in either
terminal 6 or 7 and the other probe in terminal 10 on the module connecting block. The
reading should be about 0.5Ω.
To Test the Tacho:
Set the multi-meter to ohms Ωand place one probe into terminal 4 on the module
connecting block and the other in terminal 5 (see picture on previous page). The reading
should be about 135Ω.However unless you have a digital meter you won’t be able to
determine the exact reading, just that the needle is between 100 Ωand 200 Ω.If there is
no reading it could be the wire is broken or you have a faulty connection or the tacho
itself is faulty.
1.3 Date Code Information
The date code/serial numbers is normally located on the inside of the door by the hinge.
The first 2 digits of the serial number are the Date code, so by using the chart below you
can tell exactly when your machine came of the production line.( As opposed to when the
store sold it.) Therefore the example serial number of 23290056 shows the machine came
of the production line in November 2003.
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
2000 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84
2001 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96
2002 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12
2003 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
2004 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
2005 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48

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1.4 How a Washing Machine works
A good Engineer has an idea on what is wrong with an appliance even before they look at
it, just by the information they are given (providing the information is correct). The art is
to know what a machine is supposed to be doing at a given time or what it is not doing.
So for those who do not know, this is roughly how a washing machine works:
The washing machine cycle is:
•Fills with water:Fill Valve/s operate (usually mixed fill depending on the
program selected) Some machines have a short pump out before they fill
•Drum agitation: Motor runs (to mix the powder and water, it also serves to let
the washing absorb some of the water so it can top up before going into the heat
cycle).
•Heat: Heater comes on (at this point the drum is normally static until the
temperature reaches a set level, then it will agitate for a few tumbles just to mix
the water and powder again)
•Wash: Motor runs (when the correct temperature is reached the drum will agitate
at whatever speed the wash program dictates, Fast for cotton or slow for
woollens. And it will rotate so many tumbles in one direction then so many in the
reverse direction.)
•Pump out: Pump comes on (this empties the wash water out ready for the rinses
to start and it is normally accompanied by a short spin)
•Fills with cold water: Cold valve operates (this is the start of the rinses, and the
program selected will determine how many rinses actually take place. At this
point the water level in the drum may differ from that of the wash; this once again
depends on the wash program selected)
•Drum agitation: Motor runs (to rinse the washing)
•Pump out: Pump comes on (depending on the program selected these last 3
stages may occur a number of times. If your machine is equipped with a fabric
conditioner facility, this will be implemented after the last main rinse)
•Spin: Motor goes into spin (the drum now starts to gather speed and will
increment over a number of phases until it reaches its maximum speed for the
selected program. If your machine has a built in out of balance detection system
and the load inside the tub is very uneven then it may not reach its final spin
speed)

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1.5 Components and some attributed faults
Motor
No spin---brushes, wiring, motor burnt out. Bad load distribution.
No motor action---brushes, wiring, motor burnt out.
Noisy---motor bearings, motor loose.
Belt jumps off---motor bearings, motor pulley faulty, motor mountings loose
Tripping fuse box---worn brushes, carbon build up inside motor housing, wiring.
Erratic spin---tacho generator faulty.
Constant spin---tacho generator disconnected.
Pressure switch
No fill---switch still engaged,
No spin---Switch still engaged.
Over fill---switch not made.
Pressure Chamber
No fill---chamber blocked after previous fill has been completed.
Over fill---chamber blocked before fill starts, leaking pressure hose or joint.
Machine will not spin---blocked chamber
Control module
Most electronic operations are activated via the internal switching of the control module;
however these rarely are the sole cause of a problem and normally if they do blow a
circuit it is because of a fault somewhere else in the machine, so just because you find a
burnt out track on the board, don’t think you have solved the problem, something made
that track blow.
Heater
No heat---wiring fault, heater protector blown, heater faulty.
Poor wash results---heater faulty, wiring fault, heater protector blown.
Noisy---heater come loose and hitting on drum.
Fuses/blows the trip switch---heater down to earth
Thermistor
No heat---wiring fault, thermistor faulty.
Water boils---wiring fault, thermistor faulty.
Pump
Noisy---something caught inside, pump bearing failure.
Not emptying---pump jammed, pump blocked, wiring connection faulty, pump faulty.
Leaking---hose connection loose, water seal faulty, pump blocked, pump faulty.
Sump
Not empting---blockage
No spin---blockage
No rinse---blockage
Noisy---ball in sump vibrating

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Stabiliser legs
Noisy---Retaining pin come out, leg broken.
Drum lopsided--- Retaining pin come out, leg broken.
Door seal
Leaking---hole in seal
Fill valves
No fill---solenoid faulty, internal filter blocked.
Fills when not on---leaking valve.
Leak from dispenser when filling---Water pressure too high (close taps slightly)
Fill hoses
No fill---hose kinked, hose filter blocked.
Clothes come out hot---hot and cold hoses on wrong valves or taps.
Inner Drum
Noisy---something caught inside (bra wire), drum damaged, drum loose.
Tearing---drum damaged, lifters damaged.
Pulley
Noisy---crack in pulley, pulley loose.
Belt
Noisy---damaged belt.
No spin---belt off / broken
Dispenser
Leak---dispenser clogged with old soap, dispenser draw not fully in.
Not taking fabric conditioner---siphon hole blocked in conditioner compartment, water
jet in dispenser blocked
1.6 Hotpoint home page for users’ handbook
http://www.hotpointservice.co.uk
The above link will take you to the Instruction Book page on the Hotpoint Web site, were
you can download free of charge, the user handbook which applies to your machine. If
you get a message that the site is unobtainable, copy and past the address into your
browser window. For some reason this link does not work on some systems direct from
the disc.

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2. WHAT PARTS LOOK LIKE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS; IN
BREIF.
2.1 Control Module
Attributed faults
•No Motor Action
•No Heater
•Machine Dead
•Most faults could be associated with it
Disconnect appliance from the main power supply before working on it
This is the most complex part of any machine and is pre-programmed with the
functions of the appliance it is designed for. Because of it’s complexity it is very
delicate and susceptible to static electricity, therefore should be handled with care.
Although it controls most of the functions on a machine it is not very often the cause
of a problem, so other areas should be examined first. If you do need to fit a new one:
Instructions on how to configure these modules are included in the box (MAKE
SURE IT IS THERE BEFORE BUYING). These modules fit a number of models and
without the configuration instructions they are worthless.
If one or more of the tracks are blown it is most likely to be attributed to a fault
somewhere else on the machine, so if your appliance is under 5 years old it would
be cheaper to call out Hotpoint. (If you want to have a go at fixing it
……Remember).
A blown track would almost certainly represent an electrical fault, so check.
Wiring connections on Module, Motor, Pump, Pressure switch, Door switch
Heater & solenoid valves.
Check for loose or worn cables, signs of rubbing either on the wire sheathing or
on any adjoining item, (cabinet, motor, on or around the front balance weight,
ect).
Or it could be a component that is at fault, but to blow a track would normally
indicate a short circuit somewhere in the part.
If this is the case the motor or pump would have a tell tale burnt smell about
them, so give them a sniff.
Do an electrical test on the heater. Connect one cable on your test meter to a metal
part of the cabinet and the other cable to one of the heater terminals, set your
meter to meghomes MΩand press the button. If there is no change in the dial
then the heater is OK but if the needle jumps across the dial, the heater is shorting
out, and needs changing.
The door switch and pressure switch may have shorted out internally, look for any
sign of burning on the exposed parts of the terminals.
Unless the solenoid valve has caught light, it is usually just the insulation that
breaks down and they stop working. This in its self would not cause a track to
blow on the control board.

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2.2 Pressure Chamber (Old & new)
New
Old
Attributed faults
•Overfilling
•Will wash but Not Spin
•Will go straight into wash without any
water
•Heater comes on without any water
Pressure Chamber
The Pressure chamber is situated at the rear of the container just to the side of the motor,
and is an integral part of the sump. It is connected to the pressure switch by means of a
thin hose. Air is trapped in the chamber as the machine fills with water and is forced up
the hose, (the more water the greater the pressure) until the pressure inside the hose
triggers the switch and so turns off the fill valve.
Blockages are the main cause for concern with the pressure chamber and they happen
because some of the grime and excess detergent build up in the base of the machine
then gradually work into the chamber where it forms layer upon layer until it
gradually blocks the small hose outlet.
The only effective way of cleaning the chamber is to remove the sump/pressure
chamber and wash it out thoroughly under running water. Do not think that blowing
down the pressure pipe will do the job. (That will only work for one or two washes
before it blocks again).
If you are still getting trouble after replacing the sump/pressure chamber, it could be
air escaping through one of the hose connections; put cable ties on both ends of the
pressure hose and tighten.

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2.3 Pressure Switch
Attributed faults
•Overfilling
•Intermittent Over or Under Filling
•Fill Valves Dead
The pressure switch controls the fill valves, and in some cases will prevent the motor
from going into spin. It operates via an internal diaphragm which activates and
deactivates the internal switch/s. This diaphragm is controlled by the Pressure Chamber
and the small bore hose connecting both. There is also a flood level switch that operates
if the water level gets too high.
If the pressure switch does not reset the door lock will stay activated, even if the drum
is empty.
If the flood level contacts are made the pump will come on and stay on until the
switch resets.
If the pressure switch is at all suspect then change it, do not attempt a repair on this
component.

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2.4 Fill Valves
Double Cold Solenoid Valve Single Hot Solenoid Valve
Attributed faults
•No Water
•Drum Fills When Power Off
The Fill valves, or (solenoid valves) allow water into the machine via a diaphragm
which is held closed by the external water pressure on top of it, but when the solenoid
is energized it breaks the seal of the diaphragm and allows water to pass, then the
water pressure passing under the diaphragm keeps it open, until the power is turned
off from the solenoid and an internal spring closes the diaphragm.
The main reason for these valves to become faulty is the coil going open circuit,
or the insulation breaking down. In both cases the valve has to be replaced, unless
you can lever the coil off (the coloured section with the metal band around it).
Then it is just a case of replacing that.
Be very careful if you attempt this kind of repair, because you could damage or
break the centre shaft of the valve.
The other fault is internal leaking. That is where water seeps through the valve
and fills the drum over night. This is almost always caused through a small
particle of grit getting under the diaphragm and not allowing it to reseat properly.
The quick solution is replacing the valve.
The long version is remove the valve, remove the coil, unscrew the centre shaft of
the valve (be careful of springs and plungers). Lift diaphragm and clean it, then
reassemble.
Test by turning the water on and look through the dispenser opening without the
draw in, if water still trickles through, it didn’t work, buy a new valve the old
diaphragm is damaged.

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2.5 Door Switch
Attributed faults
•Machine will not start
•Door will not open
The door switch has a bimetallic strip inside that heats up when an electric current is
passed through it. It only takes a matter of seconds to get hot and bend, as it bends it
touches another terminal which completes the circuit, also activating a locking
mechanism that prevents the door from being opened. However it takes considerably
longer to cool down, that is why there is about a 2 minute pause after the wash before
you can open the door.
If the bimetallic strip no longer functions the switch becomes inactive.
If there is an internal short the switch becomes inactive.
If there is still water detected in the machine the control module keeps the switch
energised as long as there is power to the machine.(If the machine is switched of
at the mains the door lock will open regardless)
If it remains locked, there is a release lever to the front of the switch that will free
it, however you will need to get access to it from the top of the
machine, or by removing the front panel

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2.6 Heater & Cut-out with Thermistor
Attributed faults
•No Heater
•Machine Stops Washing
•Poor Wash Results
•Overheating/Boiling
The heater is fitted with a thermistor as an integral part of its make up. It also has a
built in thermal cut out just in case it over heats, this cut out is not re-settable and if
it goes the heater will not work and must be replaced. The thermistor registers the
water temperature and transmits the information to the control module, which in
turn switches the heater on or off via a heater relay.
If for any reason the heater does not work the control will advance on to the next
part of the programme, without giving any warning the heater is faulty. You may
get poor wash results.
If one of the thermistor wires breaks the water will just continue to heat.
When a 95º programme is used continuously the internal cut out will blow and
the heater will not work.
If the internal filament blows it could cause the heater to short circuit and blow
the module.
If the heater comes on without water in the drum it would cause smoke to come
out of the dispenser draw.

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2.7 Heater Guard
Attributed faults
•Noisy
The heater guard is designed to hold the heater down and prevent it from rubbing on the
inner drum as it revolves. Because it lips under part of the container it can only be fitted
onto the heater one way.
If a coin or something gets into the gap between the inner drum and container it could
hit and dislodge the heater guard, this would make the heater unstable and cause it to
rub against the drum as it spun.
Once dislodged the heater is prone to get caught on the inner drum and be ripped out
of the container.

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2.8 Tacho Generator / Motor
Motor Tacho
Attributed faults Attributed faults
•Noisy * Distribute speed wrong
•No Drum Action * Motor Spins
•Earth Leakage (Trips fuse box) * Erratic Spin Speed
* Bangs on Spin
About the Motor
After date code 26 a different design motor was introduced and both types of motor were
in production at the same time. The newer motor had the wiring connection block at the
front (The end the belt fits on) rather than the end where the Tacho is located. Although
both motors will fit and may seem interchangeable they are not. The wiring connections
are different on the newer motor; the wiring plug is the wrong way round, and by turning
the connector upside down to make it fit will only blow the motor circuit.
About the Tacho
The short version is the ‘Tacho Generator’ is a slightly off set magnet inside a field coil,
on the rear of the motor, which sends information to the module; this information
determines the speed of the motor, and whether or not the drum is out of balance.
If a tacho fault is encountered, such as the distribute speed being too fast, or machine
going straight into spin when switched on, the motor must be changed because there
is no adjustment on these tachos.
The motor bearings can cause almost as much noise as the drum bearings if left too
long without attention, they can be changed but normally the motor is replaced.
The brushes very rarely wear down on these motors but should be checked anyway.
Internal faults would be the windings which are fitted with a thermal overload or the
armature. Once again they can be changed but the motor is usually replaced.
Earth leakage, caused by the carbon from the brushes, can trip some milliamp fuse
boxes. This carbon sits inside the motor housing and form a bridge across from the
case to the wiring, (only a problem on some very sensitive boxes).

Home Repair Manuals Hotpoint WMA32 Dismantle & Repair
Page 20 of 50
2.9 Pump
Attributed faults
•No pump out
•Noisy
•Leaking
The pump is situated under the washing machine at the rear of the cabinet and its function
is to evacuate the drum of water. Although quite robust for its size it doesn’t take too
much to stop it from working, blockages being the main cause for concern, although even
a cotton bud or elastic band can prevent the impellor from turning. The impellor on these
pumps do not spin freely when flicked so don’t think that they are faulty for that reason.
Small items do get passed the filter in the sump and can get lodged in the pump
housing, this will cause one or more of the following:
The pump will stop. There will be water left in the machine
The pump will become very noisy. While the pump is on you will hear a rattling or
grating or both.
The pump will run erratically. The pump will stop and start at will, and you could be
left with water in the drum.