Husqvarna K 3000-Electric Instruction manual

HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
Workshop manual
K 3000- Electric, Wet, Cut-n-Break

1. LITERATURE 3
2. COMPONENTS – NAVIGATION 4
3. BASIC STRUCTURE 5
4. CARBON BRUSHES 6
5. CARBON BRUSH HOLDER 7
6. WIRING DIAGRAM, CABLING – 230 V 8
7. WIRING DIAGRAM, CABLING – 120 V 9
8. TESTING – ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS 10
9. ELECTRICAL CABLES, CONTACTS 11
10. ROTOR 12
11. ROTOR – REPLACEMENT 13
12. STATOR – 230 V 14
13. STATOR – 120 V 15
14. STATOR – REPLACEMENT 16
15. GEAR HOUSING – Electric, Wet 17
16. GEAR HOUSING – Cut-n-Break 21
17. CUTTING UNIT – Electric, Wet 24
18. CUTTING UNIT – Cut-n-Break 26
19. WET SYSTEM 31
20. TOOLS 33
CONTENTS Page
2115 24 59-26
HUSQVARNA
K 3000

LITERATURE
3
115 24 59-26
1
Workshop manual
The workshop manual covers virtually all work
in the workshop that involves the K3000
Electric, Wet and Cut-n-Break. Some very simple
and rather obvious repair work has been omitted.
Disposition
The machines have identical electric motors. The
workshop manual begins with the chapter for
service and repair work on the electric motor
which is common to the machines.
The cutting unit and transmission are identical
for Electric and Wet. Only the wet kit differs
between the machines. The Cut-n-Break has a
totally different cutting unit. The work in the
workshop that is specific to each machine is
therefore handled in a separate chapter which
appears later in the workshop manual.
Arrangement – illustrations and text
In addition to graphics and illustrations, there
are generally two text columns. The left-hand
text column gives a brief explanation and is
intended for experienced mechanics, whereas the
right-hand column is a more detailed descrip-
tion and is intended for mechanics with less
experience of repair work for this type of
machine.
Contents
The manual is divided into numbered chapters
as well as chapter headings that are specified in
bold at the top of each page.
The list of contents also has page references to
the start of each chapter.
Spares
Spares K3000
The folders include all spares for Husqvarna
K3000.
The K3000 Electric and Wet have a common
spares folder, while the K3000 Cut-n-Break has a
separate folder.
The folders contain complete exploded
drawings for the machines where the location,
spares number and appearance of each compo-
nent is easy to identify.
HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
Workshop manual
K 3000- Electric, Wet, Cut-n-Break
IPL, K3000 Cut-n-Break, 2008-05, 504 83 24-02
K3000 Cut-n-Break
Reservdelar
Spare parts
Ersatzteile
Pieces de rechange
Piezas de repuesto
Ricambi
Peças sobresselente
HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
504 83 24-02
IPL, K3000, K3000 Wet, 2008-05, 510 03 27-02
K3000
K3000 Wet
Reservdelar
Spare parts
Ersatzteile
Pieces de rechange
Piezas de repuesto
Ricambi
Peças sobresselente
HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
510 03 27-02

4115 24 59-26
COMPONENTS – NAVIGATION2
K3000 Electric, Wet
1. Cutting blade
2. Blade guard
3. Spray nozzle, on each side
(not Electric)
4. Front handle
5. Inspection cover for carbon brushes
6. Starter lock
7. Rear handle
8. Circuit breaker
9. Rotation lock
10. Earth fault breaker
11. Water coupling with valve
(not Electric)
K3000 Cut-n-Break
1. Cutting blades
2. Blade guard
3. Splash guard
4. Water valve
5. Front handle
6. Inspection cover for carbon brushes
7. Starter lock
8. Rear handle
9. Circuit breaker
10. Earth fault breaker
11. Water coupling
12. Belt tensioner
13. Lock nuts for belt adjustment
3
1
2
1
2
5
4
6
7
8
6
7
8
11
910
5
6
9
10 11
2
12
3
45
13

5
BASIC STRUCTURE 3
K3000 Cut-n-Break
Cutting unit with double blades. Blade water coolant.
Blade diameter 230 mm, cutting depth 400 mm.
K3000 Electric
The basic design with cutting
unit for 300 or 350 mm cutting
blade. Only intended for dry
cutting.
K3000 motor
The motor unit is identical for the machines.
Available for 230 V (220–240 V) and 120 V
(110–130 V).
K3000 Wet
The machine is identical to the
K3000 Electric but the blade
guard has a wet cutting attach-
ment with spray nozzles on both
sides of the blade. 350 mm
cutting blade.
K3000
Husqvarna's electrically driven power cutters are based on a common
motor unit that allows wet cutting with a limited amount of water. The
machine versions are shown in the illustration below.
The workshop manual deals with the motor unit in a common section
and the distinct parts for each machine in a chapter for each type of
machine.
Note: The machines cannot be divided in practice as shown in the
illustration below.

CARBON BRUSHES
6
4
Replacing the carbon
brushes
1. K3000 Wet: Remove the screw
and take off the cover.
2. K3000 Electric, Cut-n-Break:
Uncover the screw and remove
the cover.
3. K3000 all:
Uncover the screw as above.
Cut the decal and remove the
cover.
4. Loosen the screw one turn.
5. Pull out the cable lug.
6. Lift the spring and pull out
the carbon brush.
Clean the holder.
7. Fit new carbon brushes.
Replacing the carbon
brushes
1. K3000 Wet, right side: Remove the
screw by the hose holder. Remove the
cover.
2. K3000 Electric, Cut-n-Break, right side:
Cut the decal by the round mark to
uncover the screw. Remove the cover.
3. K3000 all, left side:
Uncover the screw as above.
Cut the decal with a knife by the mark in
the decal. Remove the cover.
4. Loosen the screw and screw it out one
turn. Let the screw remain in place.
5. Pull out the cable lug from the screw.
6. Lift the spring with an angle hook. Lift
off the carbon brush.
Clean the holder from carbon particles
and dirt.
7. Fit new carbon brushes. Check that the
carbon brush cable runs over the spring.
Replacing the carbon brushes
The two carbon brushes transfer electric current to the motor's rotor.
The carbon brushes are wear parts that must be checked regularly; every
week if the machine is used daily.
You should replace the carbon brushes when around half is left. You can
easily measure this using a slide gauge without removing the brushes. Replace
the carbon brushes when the distance from the brush holder to the top level
of the brush exceeds 10 mm/.4 in.
Worn carbon brushes – checking
The importance of replacing the brushes in good time is demonstrated by the
adjoining illustrations.
The illustrations to the left show a brush that is worn but still operable.
Both the brush and the collector have minor scratches in the direction of
rotation which is entirely normal.
The illustrations to the right show the results when the brush is so worn
that the spring, which presses the brush down on the collector, has reached its
end position and no longer gives the brush the correct pressure to the collector.
Sparking occurs which damages both brushes and, even worse, the collector in
a very short time.
Pay careful attention to sparking near the collector
The information given above shows that it is important to avoid sparking
around the collector. If the brushes are not worn, sparking could be due to
the brushes being unable to move in their holders as a result of, for example,
dirt. Sparking normally occurs when running in new brushes.
12
3
45
67
Max 10 mm

Remove left handle half
Two long screws link the gear
housing to the left handle half.
Undo the screws at the gear
housing so that they release
from the handle half.
Remove both carbon brushes
and the screws to the cable lugs.
Remove left handle half
Two long screws link the gear housing to
the left handle half. Undo the screws at
the gear housing so that they release
from the handle half.
Remove both carbon brushes and the
screws to the cable lugs.
Pull the circuit board from the guide
slots in the handle.
Remove the switch by initially pulling it
outwards from the attachment in the
bracket and then move it backwards from
the handle.
Pull the circuit board from the
handle.
Remove the switch.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to the car-
bon brushes as per previous chapter.
Remove the screws as per the illustration
and take off the handle half.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to
the carbon brushes.
Remove the screws as shown in
the illustration.
7
CARBON BRUSH HOLDER 5
Replacing the carbon brush holder
In order to replace the carbon brush holders, both the rear handle halves must
be removed from the motor housing.
Remove the carbon brush
holders
Remove the carbon brush holder
screws.
Remove the carbon brush holders
Remove the screws that hold the carbon
brush holders, two screws per brush
holder.
Lift out the carbon brush
holders.
Lift the carbon brush holders upwards
and out through the area shown in the
illustration.

8
WIRING DIAGRAM, CABLING – 230 V
Assembly diagram
The assembly diagram shows the colours
and positions of the connection cables
for the electrical connections.
Components/cables
Illustration 1. Removal
Remove the cover to the carbon brushes,
see “carbon brushes” chapter, page 6.
Remove the screws as shown in the
illustration.
The illustration below shows the position
of the components and cables in the
handle.
Illustration 2
a. The flat pin contacts connect to the
stator windings.
b. Earth connector from mains cable.
c. Screw for earth connection.
d. Earth connector from earth point to
circuit board.
e. Outgoing from switch.
Illustration 3
f. Incoming earthed mains cable.
g. Incoming cables to switch.
Illustration 4
The illustration shows the attachment of
the circuit breaker cables (black and
white).
The dashed line shows the routing for
the cables between the circuit board and
the switch (e). Note that the cables must
be behind the circuit board guide slot.
1
a
3
2
4
GREY
GREY
GREY
WHITE
BLACK
Earth fault breaker BROWN
BLUE
GREEN/YELLOW
GREEN/YELLOW
WHITE
BLACK
Rotor
Stator
Stator
GREY
BLACK
BLACK
Circuit breaker
Circuit board
b
f
g
e
c
d
6

9
WIRING DIAGRAM, CABLING – 120 V
Assembly diagram
The assembly diagram shows the colours
and positions of the connection cables
for the electrical connections.
BLACK
Rotor
Stator
Stator
GREY
GREY
GREY GREY
BLACK
BLACK
BLACK
WHITE
Circuit breaker
Circuit board
Earth fault breaker WHITE
BLACK
GREEN/YELLOW
7
Components/cables
Illustration 1. Removal
Remove the cover to the carbon brushes,
see “carbon brushes” chapter, page 6.
Remove the screws as shown in the
illustration.
The illustration below shows the position
of the components and cables in the
handle.
Illustration 2
a. Incoming from mains current.
b. From switch to circuit board.
c. Screw for earth connection and earth
connector.
d. From circuit board to stator winding.
e. From circuit board to right connec-
tion for the carbon brush, see illustration
3 position f.
Illustration 3
The illustration shows the position and
attachment of the cables in the handle.
f. Connection of black cable from circuit
board.
g. and h. From mains cable to switch,
white and black.
Illustration 4
Turn the switch's cable lug as per illustra-
tion.
Illustration 5
Both the stator's ring cable lugs are
connected to the left carbon brush. See
illustration on page 15.
1
e
3
2
d
a
f
h
g
c
b
5
4

10
0
TESTING – ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS8
Work procedure
The electrical function is checked in the following chapter exclusively with a
multimeter.
No checks are made with the machine connected to
the mains!
The only exception is the function check of the earth fault breaker
that is done without the machine or earth fault breaker being dis-
mantled.
Circuit board
The circuit board gives the machine two functions:
– Softstart, which gives a soft start with less current surge.
– Elgard™ is a guard that gives a warning by varying the speed in the event of
overload.
The circuit board in the machine cannot be checked without specialist skills
and special measuring equipment. Here the process of elimination method
must be applied. If the power supply (whole cables and switches) are said to be
intact and the stator and rotor are in working order, the fault must be with
the circuit board which is then replaced.
Earth fault breaker function
The earth fault breaker's principle function is fairly simple. The current that
comes in through the phase conductor must also pass the 0 conductor unless
the current takes other routes, e.g. creeping current that is carried on to the
earth conductor.
The conductors run through a coil and if the same current goes in the
opposite direction, no current is generated in the coil. If the difference is
greater than 10 mA between the phase and 0 conductor, a breaker trips the
current to the machine. Note that the earth conductor has nothing to do with
the earth fault breaker.
Function test
Each time the power plug is connected to the mains supply, the RESET but-
ton must be pressed. A relay connects the current and is held in position as
long as there is mains current, or if the earth fault breaker trips due to a fault.
A signal above the button shows that the current is connected.
The TEST button is used to check that the earth fault breaker is working.
Start the machine and press the TEST button. The earth fault breaker must
trip and the machine must stop.

11
ELECTRICAL CABLES – CONTACTS 9
Test of mains cable
The earth fault breaker does not allow the current to pass this when it is not
connected to the mains supply. In order to check the mains cable with a
multimeter, the earth fault breaker ends must be pulled apart to access the
connection points. Remove the two screws on each end.
Measuring instruments
For the tests below, a multimeter is used that is set for measuring a
broken/closed electric circuit. A closed circuit is normally marked with a
buzzer signal in the multimeter.
The illustrations below show: left illustration one contact point, right
illustration other contact point when measuring.
Cable: contact – earth
fault breaker
Check that the earth cable is
intact.
Cable: contact – earth fault
breaker
Measure between the contact pin and
earth fault breaker's connection point.
Repeat the measurement on the other
pin/connection point (arrows).
Check in a similar way that the earth
cable is intact.
Cable: earth fault breaker –
switch
Measure between the earth fault breaker's
contact points and both switch connec-
tions.
Check that the earth cable is intact. The
earth cable connections are located under
the circuit board.
Cable: earth fault breaker
– switch
Check that the earth cable is
intact.
Circuit breaker
Measure between the switch's incoming
and outgoing contact points. Press the
switch to check that it connects to the
electric circuit.
Circuit breaker
Press the switch to check that it
connects to the electric circuit.
Cable: switch – motor
The measurement method to exclusively check the cable between the switch
and the circuit board is not present as there are no uninsulated areas on the
circuit board. The only way of checking the cable is to measure it in series
with the stator winding which must then be intact. Measure between the
switch and one of the carbon brushes. Resistance measurement gives the
clearest results.

12
ROTOR
Functional test
Preparations
Remove the inspection cover to the carbon brushes.
Connect a measuring cable to each carbon brush. (You do not need to be
concerned that the stator is connected at the carbon brushes as the stator's
circuit board is broken at the circuit board and is therefore not affected by the
measurement.)
Measuring cables
Use short measuring cables and lay these close to each other: the easiest way is
to twist them. Cables run in a coiled way give incorrect readings.
Inductance measurement – Henry (H)
Inductance measurement is applied to check the condition of the rotor. The
dimension is “Henry”, abbreviated H (1H = 1000 mH). Resistance measure-
ment (ohm) produces no usable results.
Testing
Set the measuring instrument to measure mH. Turn the rotor shaft once by
turning the blade slowly ensuring you obtain the measured values for each
winding of the rotor.
Measured values
230 Volt: Typical measured value for a correct rotor is around 13–14 mH.
120 Volt: Typical measured value for a correct rotor is around 2.6–3.0 mH.
The inductance values may vary a lot between the measurement instruments
and machines. Pay special attention therefore to the differences in the values
during the test, rather than the absolute values. Major differences indicate a
defective rotor.
Rotor assembly
The gear housing and motor unit of both machines are designed according to
the same principle.
Four long screws link the motor unit with the gear housing. Two screws are
reached from the gear housing and two from the rear of the motor. The
screws also attach the handles to the motor housing.
In order to remove the rotor, the gear housing cover must be removed.
Both machines must have a number of components removed in order to
access the four screws that hold the cover with its crown gear.
When the drive pinion on the rotor shaft has been removed, the rotor
can then be pulled out of the gear housing. Note that the rotor shaft is left
threaded and therefore the nut must be removed in a clockwise direction.
The rotor's rear bearing is fitted with a light force fit into the motor housing.
A rubber sleeve is located between the rotor bearing and motor housing.
120 V
230 V
10
Tightening torque 33–35 Nm
When refitting, the nut must be tightened using a torque wrench at a value of
33–35 Nm. A torque wrench with a U-grip insert must be used due to the con-
fined space. The rotor shaft is left threaded and the nut is therefore tightened
in an anticlockwise direction.

ROTOR – REPLACEMENT
13
11
Hint
Release the motor housing from
the electrical components by
detaching the cables at the circuit
board and pulling out the earth
rod.
Divide the gear housing
In order to pull the gear housing out of the rotor, the cover to the gear
housing must be lifted and the drive pinion removed from the rotor shaft.
Go to following pages:
K3000 Electric, Wet: page 17.
K3000 Cut-n-Break: page 21.
Hint
Release the motor housing from the
circuit board and switch by detaching the
cables to the circuit board and pulling
out the earth rod.
Divide the gear and motor housing
Lift the carbon brushes and lock with the
spring lying to the side.
The rear bearing is fitted with a light
force fit to the motor housing. Turn the
machine with the gear housing freely sus-
pended downwards and knocking a few
times against the bearing to divide the
motor and gear housing.
Preparations
K3000 Electric, Wet
Removing the blade guard, see page 24.
K3000 Cut-n-Break
Removing the cutting unit and handle unit, see page 30.
Divide the gear and motor
housing
Lift the carbon brushes and lock
with the spring.
Turn the machine with the gear
housing down and knocking a
few times against the bearing to
divide the motor and gear
housing.
Pull the circuit board from the guide
slots in the handle.
Remove the switch by first pulling it out-
wards from the attachment in the bracket
and then move it backwards from the
handle.
Pull the circuit board from the
handle.
Remove the switch.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to the car-
bon brushes as per previous chapter.
Remove the screws as per the illustration
and take off the handle half.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to
the carbon brushes.
Remove the screws as shown in
the illustration.
Remove left handle
Remove the screws at the gear
housing.
Remove the screw in the motor
housing.
Remove left handle
Two long screws link the gear housing to
the left handle half. Remove the screws
Remove the screw at the bottom of the
motor housing's right side.

14
STATOR – 230 V
Functional test
Fractures to the stator winding are easiest to indicate using the check below.
In general, short-circuited windings can also be identified, particularly if the
short circuit eliminates current in several winding turns. If the short circuit
only eliminates a few turns, the measurement is unlikely to record this. A
fault like this has no noticeable effect on the performance of the motor either.
Resistance measurement – Ohm (Ω)
Resistance measurement provides an unequivocal answer as to whether the
stator winding is fractured. However, the method gives unclear indications for
short-circuited winding turns.
Inductance measurement – Henry (H)
The dimension is “Henry”, abbreviated H (1H = 1000 mH). Inductance
measurement is best applied to both identify fractures in the stator winding or
short-circuited winding turns.
Use short measuring cables and lay these close to each other: the easiest way
is to twist them. Cables run in a coiled way give incorrect readings.
Preparations, illustration 1
Remove the inspection covers for the carbon brushes and right handle half,
see “Wiring diagram, cabling” chapter, page 8.
The stator winding is divided at the circuit board and is connected in the
following way: Pull out the contacts to the stator at the circuit board. Connect
the contacts using a cable fitted with flat pin contacts.
Preparations, illustration 2
You do not need to remove the carbon brushes. Lift these up and lock with the
spring to the side. Connect the test pins to the cables on the carbon brushes.
Measured values
Typical measured values for a correct stator is 40 mH. Resistance measurement
gives around 0.8 ohm.
If the stator winding is fractured you get the value 0 mH. Resistance measure-
ment gives a maximum, or immeasurable ohm figure.
Short-circuited winding turns reduce the inductance value. If the value is
30 % (around 30 mH) below the typical value, the stator is unfit for use.
mH Ω
1
2
12
A dismantled stator is best tested by measuring both stator windings indivi-
dually. Connect the measurement cables to one of the winding's flat pin sleeve
(A) and ring cable lug (B). Repeat the measurement on the other winding (A/B).
Typical values for a winding (one of two) is 2.8 mH and 0.4 ohm. Major
deviations between the windings indicate a defect stator.
B
A
AB

15
STATOR – 120 V
Functional test
Fractures to the stator winding are easiest to indicate using the check below.
In general, short-circuited windings can also be identified, particularly if the
short circuit eliminates current in several winding turns. If the short circuit
only eliminates a few turns, the measurement is unlikely to record this. A
fault like this has no noticeable effect on the performance of the motor either.
Resistance measurement – Ohm (Ω)
Resistance measurement provides an unequivocal answer as to whether the
stator winding is fractured. However, the method gives unclear indications for
short-circuited winding turns.
Inductance measurement – Henry (H)
The dimension is “Henry”, abbreviated H (1H = 1000 mH). Inductance
measurement is best applied to both identify fractures in the stator winding or
short-circuited winding turns.
Use short measuring cables and lay these close to each other: the easiest way
is to twist them. Cables run in a coiled way give incorrect readings.
Preparations, illustration 1
Remove the inspection cover to the carbon brushes.
Break the electric circuit to the rotor by pulling out both the carbon brushes
a little and lock with the spring to the side. Connect one of the test pins to the
carbon brush's cable on the left side.
Disconnect the contact to the stator (grey cable) at the circuit board and
connect to the other test pin.
Measured values
Typical measured values for a correct stator are around 10–12 mH. Typical
value for resistance measurement is around 0.2–0.3 ohm.
If the stator winding is fractured you get the value 0 mH. Resistance
measurement gives a maximum, or immeasurable ohm figure.
Short-circuited winding turns reduce the inductance value. If the value is
30 % (around 7 mH) below the typical value, the stator is unfit for use.
mH Ω
1
13
A dismantled stator is best tested by measuring both stator windings indivi-
dually. Connect the measurement cables to the flat pin sleeve (A) and one of
the ring cable lugs (B). Repeat the measurement on the other ring cable lug.
Typical values for a winding (one of two) are for an inductance measure-
ment 4–4.5 mH and for a resistance measurement 0.5–0.6 ohm. Major devia-
tions between the windings indicate a defect stator.
BB
A

16
STATOR – REPLACEMENT14
Remove the rotor
Remove the last long screw,
marked with an arrow.
Knock carefully to remove the
rotor from the motor housing.
Remove the rotor
Remove the last long screw of four that
link the gear housing to the motor
housing.
Turn the machine with the gear housing
facing down and carefully knock the
rotor out of the motor housing.
Remove the stator
Remove the screws as shown in
the illustration.
Pull the stator out of the motor
housing.
Remove the stator
The stator is attached with two long
screws in the motor housing. Nut on
opposite side. Remove the screws
Pull the stator out of the motor housing
by hand. If it is difficult to move, a few
light knocks on an even surface will get
the stator to release.
Pull the rotor out of the motor housing.Pull the rotor out of the motor
housing.
Pull the circuit board from the guide
slots in the handle.
Remove the switch by first pulling it out-
wards from the attachment in the bracket
and then move it backwards from the
handle.
Pull the circuit board from the
handle.
Remove the switch.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to the car-
bon brushes as per previous chapter.
Remove the screws as per the illustration
and take off the handle half.
Remove right handle
Remove the inspection cover to
the carbon brushes.
Remove the screws as shown in
the illustration.
Remove left handle
Remove the screws at the gear
housing.
Cut-n-Break: Removing the
cutting unit, see page 30.
Remove the carbon brushes and
the screws to the cable lugs.
Remove left handle
Two long screws link the gear housing to
the left handle half. Remove the screws
Cut-n-Break: Removing the cutting
unit, see page 30.
Remove both carbon brushes and the
screws to the cable lugs.

17
GEAR HOUSING – Electric, Wet 15
Four break slots between cover
and gear housing. Break alterna-
tively between the break slots
using a screwdriver.
Heating with a hot air gun
reduces the press force.
Four break slots between cover and gear
housing. Add a couple of screwdrivers
diagonally to the cover and break alterna-
tively between the break slots to remove
the cover.
Heating with a hot air gun under the
gear housing reduces the press force in
the bearing seat and the cover is then
easy to lift off.
Remove the drive pinion
The nut is left threaded!
Remove the drive pinion
Attach the rotor in a vice with rubber
jaws.
The nut is left threaded!
Remove the nut in a clockwise direction.
Pull the drive pinion off the
shaft.
Turn the nut correctly!
Turn the side with the shoulder
to the drive pinion when
reassembling.
Later designs have a nut with
shoulder on both sides.
When the nut has been removed the
drive pinion can be pulled off the shaft
by hand.
Turn the nut correctly!
When refitting note that the nut is not
symmetrical. Turn the side with the
shoulder to the drive pinion.
Later designs have a nut with shoulder
on both sides.
Gear housing and cover after removal.
Grease missing in the illustration
For the sake of clarity the grease that fills
most of the gear housing has been taken
away.
Gear housing and cover after
removal.
Grease missing in the
illustration
For the sake of clarity the grease
has been taken away from the
gear housing.
Alternative for dismantling
The gear housing is accessible for dividing when the blade guard has been
removed. Inspection of the crown gear and drive pinion, replacement of the
blade shaft crown gear bearing and re-greasing the bearing housing can be done
without removing any other parts.
Replacement of rotor, the front bearing or drive pinion of the rotor requires
that the gear housing together with the rotor is separated from the motor unit
as shown in the illustration. This is described on page 13.
Remove the cover
Remove the screws.
Remove the cover
Remove the four screws holding the
cover.

18
GEAR HOUSING – Electric, Wet15
Remove the gear housing
Attach the rotor in a vice with
rubber jaws.
Press a heavy metal object
against one corner of the gear
housing. Knock the opposite
corner with a small plastic
hammer.
Remove the gear housing
Attach the rotor in a vice with rubber
jaws.
Press a heavy metal object against one
corner of the gear housing. Knock a few
light strokes with a small plastic hammer
on the opposite corner to release the gear
housing from the rotor.
Remove the circlip
Remove the circlip using circlip pliers.
Warning – wear safety goggles!
There is a wave shaped spring washer
under the circlip that comes with force
when the circlip has released its grip.
Remove the bearing
Remove the ball bearing in the gear
housing using a counter stay device.
Heating around the bearing seat using
a hot air gun reduces the press force con-
siderably.
Felt seal
There is felt packing under each bearing
surrounded by washers on both sides.
Replace felt seal when replacing bearing.
Remove the bearing
Remove the ball bearing using a
counter stay device.
Heating around the bearing
seat reduces the press force con-
siderably.
Felt seal
There is felt seal under each
bearing surrounded by washers
on both sides. Replace felt seal
when replacing bearing.
Remove the circlip
Warning – wear safety
goggles!
There is a wave shaped spring
washer under the circlip.
Tools
Removal of gear housing bearing
The following tools are required for dismantling the gear
housing's bearing:
1. Internal bearing extractor to grip behind the bearings.
2. Use a counter stay device where there is a counterhold.
3. A slide hammer is an alternative to the counter stay
device if there is no counterhold available.
Tools
Fitting of gear housing bearing
Fitting of the gear housing's bearings is best done using the tool kit 506 37 61-02.
(The tool kit is also used on the petrol-driven power cutters for replacing the
main bearings, replacing the blade shaft bearing and driving wheel bearing on
K960 Ring.)
1
506 37 61-02
2
3

19
GEAR HOUSING – Electric, Wet 15
Reassembly
The wave spring makes the circlip diffi-
cult to fit.
Place the wave spring in place and
centre ensuring it is not in the groove for
the circlip. Fit the circlip above the wave
spring as far down as possible. Press the
circlip down in its groove using the tool
as shown in the illustration.
Remove the crown gear
Press the crown gear shaft out of its bea-
ring using a universal puller as shown in
the illustration.
Note the seal ring that is located
furthest up on the shaft.
Remove the crown gear
Remove the crown gear using a
universal puller.
Note the seal ring that is loca-
ted furthest up on the shaft.
Crown gear bearing
Remove the bearing using a
standard puller.
Fit by pressing or knocking
against the bearing's inner ring
using a suitable socket
Crown gear bearing
Remove the bearing using a standard
puller.
Fit by pressing or knocking against the
bearing's inner ring using a suitable socket.
Cooling the end of the shaft and heating
the bearing facilitates assembly.
Reassembly
The wave spring makes the cir-
clip difficult to fit.
Place the wave spring in place
and fit the circlip as far down as
possible. Press the circlip down
in its groove using the tool as
shown in the illustration.
Fit gear housing bearings
Fit the tool as per the illustra-
tions. Place a large washer with
the nut.
Pull the bearing in by screwing
the nut.
Fit gear housing bearings
Fit the tool as per the illustrations.
Place a large washer above the nut (not
included in the tool kit).
Hold the hexagon head screw in place
and pull the bearing in by screwing the
nut.
Heating around the bearing seat
reduces the press force.
Crown gear and shaft – removal/assembly
The crown gear and shaft are fitted in the factory through shrinking
(heat/cold). The shaft is installed with a very firm force fit and removal can
only be done in practice using a hydraulic press. Heating around the crown
gear closest to the shaft reduces the press force.
Fit the shaft in the crown gear is significantly easier. Apply heat around the
crown gear to around 200 °C (400 °F) and cool the shaft with coolant spray.
Fitting can then normally be done by hand, and if necessary with a few light
knocks using a plastic hammer. You must fit quickly.
Crown gear/drive pinion
If the crown gear is replaced due to damage, a new drive pinion must be fitted.
115 24 59-26

20
525 30 02-01
Bearing replacement in cover
Remove the annular gear for the blade
guard. Remove the bearing using a coun-
ter stay device. Heating around the bea-
ring seat helps if the bearing is firmly in
place.
Fit the bearing using the tool kit
506 37 61-02, and add some large washers.
Place the bearing on the support plate.
Place the washers on the opposite side as
support for the screw, with nut, which is
screwed into the support plate. Hold the
screw in place and pull the bearing in by
turning the nut.
Bearing replacement in
cover
Remove the bearing using a
counter stay device.
Fit the bearing using the tool kit
506 37 61-02. Add some large
washers to give support to the
nut on the inside.
Fit the crown gear
An uneven load between the bearing
rings may damage the bearing. The
following method gives secure results.
Use parts of the tool kit 506 37 61-02
and socket 525 30 02-01 which gives
support to the bearing's inner ring.
Put the socket on the shaft and screw
in the screw, fitted with nut and washer,
in the crown gear shaft.
Hold the screw in place and pull the
shaft in by turning the nut.
Fit the crown gear
Use parts of the tool kit
506 37 61-02 and socket
525 30 02-01.
Put the socket on the shaft
and screw in the screw, fitted
with nut and washer, in the
crown gear shaft.
Pull the shaft in by turning
the nut.
Fit the seal ring
The seal ring is fitted on the
shaft using socket 525 30 22-01.
Turn the seal ring with flange
facing the bearing.
Fit the seal ring
The seal ring is fitted on the shaft using
socket 525 30 22-01. Turn the seal ring
with flange facing the bearing.
Support the opposite shaft end and
knock the seal ring in place.
Lubricate the gear housing
The correct type and amount of grease is packed under spares no. 574 20 62-01.
Otherwise apply 90 g of grease: Shell Albida EMS 2 or equivalent quality.
Above all apply the grease to the drive pinion and fill the ball bearing area.
Fit a new gasket and fit the cover with the crown gear. Tighten the four screws
at a torque of 10–12 Nm.
GEAR HOUSING – Electric, Wet15
506 37 61-02
115 24 59-26