Hyperion Scale Series User manual

Hyperion “Scale Series” Cub J-3 10e
Before beginning construction, please carefully read the following safety notes.
•The Hyperion Cub is a slower-flying yet highly maneuverable airplane. Anyone with experience building
and flying a few models, including one with aileron control, will be able to master the Cub. We suggest
setting Transmitter Dual Rate LOW switches to 60% of recommended throws for aileron and elevator
for the first few flights. If you have any worry about the first flight, don’t hesitate to ask an
experienced friend to check the model setup and test fly.
•Never fly a model airplane without a current membership in the R/C organizing body in your country.
That may be the AMA in the USA, or the FAI in many other countries. Membership should include
liability insurance. Check to be sure that you have it.
•Always check your flying field to be sure that it is safe before launching your model. Do not fly where
others, especially children, may come into the flight path without your notice, such as a public park.
•Be sure that your transmitter, receiver, batteries, and servos are in good condition before every flight.
Check carefully to see that no one else is using your frequency near your flying site.
•Many crashes are due to poor connectors or improper soldering between battery and ESC, or ESC and
Motor. Experienced builders: Don’t let pride stop you from checking to be sure that EVERY solder joint
is good. Re-solder with a HOT iron if you have any doubts. Use only quality gold-plated connectors.
•Test motor/controller/battery setup without propeller attached first. When propeller is attached and
battery is connected, be sure that the model is restrained at all times. Never put any part of your body
in front of a spinning propeller.
•ALWAYS do a range test before first flight. With antenna DOWN, range should be at least 30M (100’)
before servos jitter. With antenna UP, 120M minimum (400’). When flying, keep your transmitter
antenna pointed near vertical; never point directly at the model.
•Model airplanes are powerful and can be dangerous. Think and act carefully; never rush.
Required Gear:
Transmitter: 4-Channel (minimum) Receiver: 4-Channel (minimum)
Servos: 4 Micro 6g~10g in weight *Suggest Waypoint W-060BB, W-084, or W-092 x 4
Servo extension wires: None required, but two 10cm
(4”) extensions provide for easier wing removal. A short
Y-connector is also required if using a 4-channel radio.
*Hyperion WR-008 extensions and HP-WR014
Y-connector recommended
Brushless Motor and controller set: For super performance, use…
Hyperion HP-Z2213-20 motor, TITAN 20A Brushless ESC, and HP-Z22-BKMNT Adapter Set
Above available as a “set” at discount, and also includes longer prop adapter for APC E props, and gold connectors
9x4.5 APC E prop recommended, to 9x6 APC E Prop max.
Battery: 1500~2100mAh LiPo 3S
*Hyperion LVX 1500-3S recommended; LCL 2100-3S may also be used, for
longer flying time
Suggested connectors:
Motor<>ESC : 3.5mm Gold Short Bullet Connectors (included with power set option)
ESC<>BATTERY : Dean’s Ultratm Connectors
Other: “Velcro” hook-and-loop tape or double-sided sticky tape to secure radio gear; felt-tip marker.
Required Tools:
*Small and Medium-sized Phillips (+) screwdrivers *Sharp hobby knife
*Small “needle-nosed” pliers *Measuring Tape
*Metric Drill bits (1.0, 1.5 mm) *Metric Hex Wrench set
*Epoxy 2-Part Glue, 5-Minute and 30-minute types *Thin (fast setting) and Medium CA
*Straightedge ruler (thin metal type is best) *Electricians elastic tape

BUILD GUIDE
NOTE: Each of the steps below correspond to the numbered diagrams in the pictorial
assembly manual. Where differences occur, follow the TEXT, not the pictorial.
Diagram #1 – AILERONS
*Refer to the diagram to locate the servo cutout and the servo lead exit hole in bottom of the left wing panel,
and using a sharp Xacto knife, carefully remove the covering over the cutout and exit hole.
*Remove the aileron from the left wing panel. Insert all four aileron hinges half way into the aileron. Position
each hinge at 90 degrees to the trailing edge. After making sure the hinges are also aligned with the
corresponding slots in the wing trailing edge, secure each hinge to the aileron with a single drop of fast CA glue.
*Place the aileron back onto the wing, making sure all four hinges enter their corresponding slots in the wing
trailing edge and the aileron is centered, with no binding against the wing at either end.
*Hold the aileron slightly deflected away from you, and SLOWLY apply thin CA to each hinge. Be careful not to
apply too much CA or apply it too quickly, or it may flow along the hinge line. Turn the wing over and repeat.
*Repeat the entire process for the right wing panel.
Diagram #2 – AILERON SERVOS & LINKAGE
*Install a servo in the left wing panel with the servo lead (and extension if desired) routed inside the inner wing
and then out through the exit hole.
* Mount the control horn on the aileron. The horn should be positioned on the aileron so that it is even with
the outer edge of the wing center section sheeting. Use two 2.3 x 8 mm Philips screws. After mounting the
control horn, remove it and saturate the screw holes with thin CA for added strength. Re-mount the aileron
control horn after the CA has set.
*Insert the Z-bend end of an aileron pushrod through the control horn. Attach the pushrod to the servo arm
using your preferred method -- a pushrod connector, nylon retainer, or another Z-bend.
*Repeat the entire process for the right wing panel.
Diagram #3 – MAIN WING ASSEMBLY
*Lightly sand the plywood wing joiner and check to see that it fits smoothly but snugly into each wing panel.
*Test fit both wing panels and the plywood wing joiner together, making sure that no gap remains between the
two wing panels.
*Assemble the two wing panels and wing joiner using slow-setting epoxy. Use tape or clamps to hold the two
panels in proper alignment.
Diagram #4 – STABILIZER/VERTICAL FIN
*Note that the stabilizer and elevator assembly are joined by the covering material -- no hinges are required.
The stabilizer/elevator assembly should be mounted with the smooth side of the hinge line up and the
V-grooved side down, for best appearance
*Using a sharp Xacto knife, remove the covering from the fuselage over the stabilizer slot. Note that the slot
opens up into a V-shape at the back to allow free movement of the elevators.
*Test fit the stabilizer/elevator assembly into the fuselage. Check for free elevator movement. Using the
diagram as a reference, align the stabilizer so that it is centered and level.
*Use small pieces of tape on both sides of the stabilizer (top and bottom) up against the fuselage sides, to
mark where the covering must be removed from the stabilizer to provide for a solid glue joint.
*Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Carefully cut through and remove the covering between the tape
markers (the shaded area in the diagram). Install the stabilizer using slow epoxy to allow time to re-check
centering and alignment.
*Referring to the diagram, drill three 1 mm holes in the bottom of the fuselage, and install the tailskid using
two 2.3 x 8 mm Philips screws and a plastic retainer plate.
*Cut a slot in the back of the fuselage for the bottom rudder hinge, and test fit the vertical fin and rudder.
*Separate the rudder and vertical fin. Insert all three hinges halfway into the rudder. After checking to be
sure they are at 90 degrees with the hinge line, and are aligned with the slots in the vertical fin and fuselage,
apply a single drop of fast CA to hold the hinges in position in the rudder.
*Insert the vertical fin into its slot in the top of the fuselage. Use small pieces of tape to mark where the
covering must be removed.
*Remove the vertical fin, and with a sharp Xacto knife, cut through and remove the covering below the tape
markers (shaded area on the diagram).
*Reinstall the vertical fin using epoxy, and making sure that (1) it is at 90 degrees to the stabilizer, and (2) the
rear edge of the vertical fin is aligned with the back of the fuselage.
*Reattach the rudder to the vertical fin, being sure all three hinges enter their respective slots. Flex the rudder
slightly to one side and slowly apply a small amount of fast CA to each hinge. Repeat for the other side of the
hinges.

Diagram #5 – RUDDER LINKAGE
*Referring to the diagram, locate the rudder pushrod exit hole on the right side of the fuselage just below the
stabilizer. Carefully cut out the covering over the hole.
Insert the straight end of the pushrod from the front and slide it all the way through to clear any adhesive from
inside the rear of the nylon guide tube. Remove the pushrod.
*Slide the rudder pushrod into the fuselage from the outside rear, with the Z-bend at the rudder end. Make
sure the forward end of the pushrod is ABOVE the servo mounting plate in the fuselage.
*Slip a control horn over the Z-bend end of the pushrod and attach it to the rudder using two 2.3 x 8 mm
Philips screws.
Diagram #6 – ELEVATOR LINKAGE
*Referring to the diagram, locate the elevator pushrod exit hole on the left side of the fuselage just below the
stabilizer. Carefully cut out the covering over the hole.
Insert the straight end of the pushrod from the front and slide it all the way through to clear any adhesive from
inside the rear of the nylon guide tube. Remove the pushrod.
*Slide the elevator pushrod into the fuselage from the outside rear, with the Z-bend at the elevator end. Make
sure the forward end of the pushrod is ABOVE the servo mounting plate in the fuselage.
*Slip a control horn over the Z-bend end of the pushrod and attach it to the elevator using two 2.3 x 8 mm
Philips screws.
Diagram #7 – RUDDER/ELEVATOR SERVOS
*Referring to the diagram for proper position, mount the rudder & elevator servos into the plywood servo tray.
*Cut off any excess, and fasten the rudder and elevator pushrods to the servo arms using your favorite method
– pushrod connectors, Z-bends, or nylon pushrod keepers.
Diagram #8 – MAIN LANDING GEAR
*Cut out the covering over the landing gear mounting slot in the bottom of the fuselage. Insert the ends of the
two landing gear wires into the holes and slot. Fasten in place with two plastic retainer plates and four 2.3 x
10 mm Philips screws.
*Mount the wheels on the landing gear wires and retain with two 2.1 mm wheel collars.
*Locate the pre-covered bottom hatch and place it in position under the nose section. Drill a 1.5 mm hole at
the rear of the hatch cover and retain the hatch with a single 2.3 x 8 mm washer=head screw.
Diagram #9 – MOTOR MOUNTING
*NOTE: The kit may include both a stick mount for gearbox-type motors, and a plywood mount for direct-drive
outrunner motors. However, we recommend only the mount for Outrunner motors such as Z22 series in back-
mounted configuration.
9B: Outrunner mount
*Remove the five motor mount pieces from the laser cut ply parts sheet. Remove any burrs or rough edges if
necessary. Test-fit all parts together. Test fit the motor mount assembly onto the firewall.
*Remove and reassemble the motor mount with epoxy, checking for proper alignment.
*Attach the motor mount assembly to the firewall using epoxy.
Diagram #10 – CANOPY/COWLING
*Carefully remove the covering over the window openings on each fuselage side.
*Cut out the side window panels as one piece using the molded-in trim line as a guide. Separate the window
panels by cutting midway between each panel.
*Test fit each window panel in place from the inside of the fuselage, trimming the excess material as needed so
that the window panel edges do not touch any bulkheads or stringers.
*Lightly sand the outer portion (flange) of each window panel to provide better adhesion. (An emory board
works well for this)
*Apply a THIN line of medium CA to the inner surface of the fuselage around a window opening, and insert the
window into its opening from inside the fuselage. Repeat for each side window.
*Cut out the windshield on the molded-in trim lines. Check for proper fit, and then fasten in place with two 2.3
x 8 mm washer-head screws at the locations shown in the diagram.
*Temporarily install the motor and prop adapter to aid in properly positioning the cowling.
*Slide the cowling onto the fuselage and tape in position so that there is sufficient prop clearance, and the
opening in the front of the cowling is centered around the prop shaft.
*Referring to the diagram, mount the cowling using four 2.3 x 8mm washer-head screws.

Diagram #11 – WING INSTALLATION
*Locate the pre-covered plywood wing bolt plate in the parts package. Puncture the covering over the two
pre-drilled bolt holes. Insert two 3 x 25 mm Philips screws (with 3 mm flat washers) through the bolt plate.
*Puncture the covering (top and bottom) over the pre-drilled mounting bolt holes near the trailing edge of the
wing.
*Test fit the wing onto the fuselage. The leading edge tab should fit snugly but smoothly into its notch at the
top of the forward cabin bulkhead. Sand the tab or notch if necessary for a smooth fit. Check to be sure the
wing is properly seated, then insert two 3 x 25 mm Philips screws (with 3 mm flat washers) through the bolt
plate holes and the two holes in the wing, and thread them into the pre-installed T-nuts in the fuselage. If the
bolts do not line up properly, slightly enlarge the bolt holes in the wing (but NOT the bolt plate). Tighten the
bolts and check for proper alignment.
*Slip a very short piece of fuel tubing, an O-ring, or a leftover servo grommet over the bottom of each bolt and
up against the underside of the wing. This will prevent inadvertent loss of the bolts when removing the wing.
DIAGRAM #12 – WING STRUTS
*Refer to the color label on your model box, and use that strut attachment position if it differs from the
pictorial manual in diagram 12. Using the tabs on the inner end of each wing strut to determine the exact
location, drill two 1.5 mm holes in the fuselage sides, behind the landing gear. Fasten the inner ends of the
wing struts to the fuselage with two 2.3 x 8 mm washer-head screws.
*Drill 1.5 mm holes in the underside of each wing for the outer wing strut tabs, after checking to be sure that
sufficient wood exists underneath (tap with fingernail, etc). Fasten the outer ends of the struts in place with 2,3
x 8 mm washer-head screws.
*Remove all screws and the struts, and saturate each of the screw holes with fast CA to strengthen the wood
around the holes. Reinstall the struts after the CA has set thoroughly.
*Locate the clear plastic landing gear strut retainers and sand the inner surfaces lightly. Test fit the landing
gear strut and retainer over the landing gear wire. There should be a 4-5 mm gap between the top of the strut
and the bottom of the fuselage to allow for landing gear flexing during takeoffs and landings.
*Once the struts and retainers fit properly, fasten them in place using medium CA to hold the plastic retainer to
both the landing gear wire and to the strut itself.
DIAGRAM #13 – CONTROL SURFACE SETUP
*The diagram shows the recommended maximum control surface movements. If your transmitter provides
dual rate capability, set the low rate to 60% of maximum.
DIAGRAM #14 – CG Adjustment
*With all equipment installed, shift the on-board battery pack forward or aft to achieve the proper balance
point as indicated in the diagram.