J&R MANUFACTURING 700E Operation manual

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OYLER BARBECUE PIT
MODEL 700E/ 1300E
OPERATIONS AND SERVICE MANUAL
J&R MANUFACTURING, INC.[phone]
4855 (Texas)
820 W. Kearney (800) 527-
4831 (All 50 States & Canada)
Suite B (972) 289-
0801 (Parts & Service)
Mesquite, TX 75149 [phone] (Fax)
J&R MANUFACTURING, INC. [phone] (Texas)
820 W. Kearney [phone] (50 states & Canada)
Suite B [phone] (Parts and Service)
Mesquite, Texas 75149 [phone] (Fax)

SN _______________

WARNINGS!
Disposal of Ashes
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are
disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be
retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Creosote – Formation and Need for Removal –
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which
combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense
in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote
residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at
least twice monthly to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote
has accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Dedicated flue
If this unit is to be directly vented (no exhaust hood) do not connect to a flue
serving another appliance.
DANGER-Risk of Fire or Explosion
Do not burn garbage, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids
WARNING-Risk of Fire
Do not operate with flue draft exceeding 0.03 in. water column.
Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal doors open.
Do not store fuel or other combustible material within marked
installation clearances.
Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly
CAUTION-Hot Surfaces
Keep children away
Do not touch during operation
Maximum draft 0.03 in. water column
If the pit stops (lights go off, etc.) and the front door feels excessively
hot to the touch, DO NOT OPEN THE PIT, as there may be a grease
fire inside. The pit will automatically resume operation when it cools
down. Open the doors only after it cools down.
NEVER OPEN A PIT DOOR UNTIL THE PIT HAS BEEN SWITCHED
TO EVAC FOR AT LEAST 60 SECONDS.

OYLER
BARBECUE PIT
MODELS 700E AND 1300E
OPERATIONS AND
SERVICE MANUAL
MANUFACTURED BY:
J & R MANUFACTURING, INC.
Rev. 1-13

CONTENTS
OYLER BARBECUE PIT
MODEL 700E / 1300E 1
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 3
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 8
MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING 11
TROUBLESHOOTING
15
FIGURE 1 – SUGGESTED INSTALLATION 21
FIGURE 2 – MODEL 700E DETAIL SHEET 22
FIGURE 3 – THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION 23
FIGURE 4 – MODEL 1300E DETAIL SHEET 24
FIGURE 5 – SMOKESTACK INSTALLATION 25
FIGURE 6 – COOKING MODE 27
FIGURE 7 –DAMPER ACTUATORS
28
MODEL 700E & 1300E
WIRING SCHEMATIC – 240 VOLT
29
WIRING SCHEMATIC FIGURE A
31
WIRING SCHEMATIC FIGURE B 33
THERMOSTAT MANUALS 35
WARRANTY 49
WOOD SOURCE 51

OYLER BARBECUE PIT
MODEL 700E / 1300E
COOK MODES
The “E” version of the Oyler Barbecue Pit Model 700/1300 uses electric heating
elements in addition to wood fuel for the cooking heat source. Additional
controls allow the operator to cook in one of two “Cook” Modes, “Standard” or
“Dual Fuel”. In addition, a “Cook and Hold” feature can be utilized in either
mode. The basic operation and use of the Oyler Barbecue Pit has not been
altered. The control design of this unit incorporates the same basic operation
sequencing of the standard 700/1300 series. Therefore, the basic Operating
and Maintenance Instructions apply and should be referred to.
STANDARD COOK MODE
This mode allows the use of electric heating elements in addition to wood fuel.
Please note: the convection fan is engaged continuously in this mode, so overall
cooking times will be reduced.
Preheat pit in the “Standard Mode”. Load product and allow the pit to return to
the desired cooking temperature. Once the unit has reached desired cooking
temperature, turn the “HTR.ELM” switch to the “ON” position. A time delay
built into the “Dual Fuel” circuitry will allow the wood fuel to be consumed first,
utilizing the electric heating elements to “finish” the product. Used in this
method, the operator can regulate the use of the heating elements (and wood
fuel) in the cook cycle. A fully “stoked” firebox will delay (and may prevent) the
use of the electric heating elements until late in the cook cycle. Consequently,
a very small amount of wood fuel will bring on the elements much earlier. In
either case the electric heating elements will guarantee that the thermostat set
point will be maintained to the end of the cooking cycle.
Optional method for use in the “Dual Fuel” mode: Same as described above, except turn the red
switch labeled “HTR.ELM” to the “ON” position at the beginning of the preheat operation.
Using the pit in this method will allow the time delay for the electric heating elements to “time
out” during preheat and the electric elements will be used simultaneously with the wood fuel
from the beginning of the cook cycle.
1
Operation of the 700/1300 “E” Barbecue Pit in this mode is the
same as described on page 8under the paragraph titled “Start Up”.
Turn the black “COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “COOK”
position. The yellow “EVAC” switch should be in the “ON” position and the
“HTR.ELM” switch should be in the “OFF” position. Build a fire in the
firebox using fresh cut hardwood.
Please note: using the “EVAC” MODE WILL ACCELERATE
THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A FIRE IN THE FIREBOX. Once an adequate
fire has been established in the firebox, turn the “EVAC” switch to the
“OFF” position and set the thermostat to the desired cooking temperature.
For best results, allow the pit to preheat prior to loading the product.
DUAL FUEL MODE

COOK AND HOLD MODE
The difference between this mode and “Cook” mode (“Standard or “Dual Fuel”)
is the temperature control is shifted away from the primary thermostat to a
fixed secondary (or Hold) thermostat after the operator set timer, located on the
instrument panel, counts down. To utilize this feature, simply switch the black
“COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “Cook/Hold” position and set the
timer for the amount of time you wish the unit to remain in the “Cook” mode
before going into the “Hold” mode. This feature can be utilized when cooking in
either the “Standard” or “Duel Fuel” modes.
One point to remember when setting the timer, is that there is a slow “ramp-
down” from the primary (initial) thermostat set point to the secondary (Hold)
thermostat set point (non adjustable: fixed at 150º F). During this “ramp-down”
the product will continue to cook, therefore, setting the timer for the same
amount of time (cook cycle) that you would normally use will produce an over
cooked product. The timer setting should be significantly reduced to
compensate for this “ramp-down”. Some experimentation by the operator will
be necessary to fine-tune the use of the “Hold” feature.
Example: Primary thermostat set at 200º F for cooking beef brisket. You might
set the timer for 8 hours (assuming a 4 hour “Hold” period).
Please note: In the “Dual Fuel” mode the convection fan is engaged
continuously. However, when control is shifted to the secondary (Hold)
thermostat in the “Cook and Hold” mode the convection fan will cycle off each
time the fixed thermostat reaches its set point.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE NOTE:
In addition to the maintenance procedures described elsewhere in this manual, the electric heating
elements and the convection fan impeller should be inspected regularly, daily if possible, and
cleaned if necessary. If there is a heavy build up of soot or creosote, these surfaces should be
cleaned with a stiff brush and/or a commercial degreaser. This is especially important if the
“Dual Fuel” mode is not used each cook cycle.
2

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E
SHIPPING
The unit will be shipped fully assembled. A Model 700E will weigh 4,200
pounds and a Model 1300E will weigh 6,600 pounds. The meat racks will be
packed inside the cooking compartment. If you ordered a smokestack kit, it will
also be packed inside. There will be a grease drain valve packed inside the
firebox, along with the firebox door handle. To move a Model 700E into your
building, you will need a minimum opening of 60 inches in width and 86 inches
in height (60” X 86”). For a Model 1300E, you will need a minimum opening of
72 inches in width and 95 inches in height (72” X 95”). The height
requirements can be reduced by 6 ½” by removing the motors and stack ring on
the top of the unit.
HANDLING
A Model 700E can be handled with a forklift if the lift has a 6,000 pound
capacity. A Model 1300E will require an 8,000 pound lift. The extra capacity
lifts are necessary due to the size of the units. Whenever possible, the unit
should be trucked from the rear. Alternatively, a crane can be used by rigging
onto the four lifting lugs welded onto the top of the unit.
FOUNDATION
It is recommended that the unit be placed on a four to six inch thick concrete
pad as shown on Figures 1 and 3. This pad should be sized to be four inches
larger than the pit in both dimensions (ex: Model 700E pad should be 59 ¾” by
108” or 117” for a rear firebox). This elevates the pit drain valve an additional
four to six inches off the floor and facilitates grease handling. With a pad, the
bottom of the grease drain valve would be nine to eleven inches off your finished
floor versus five inches without a pad. We offer a four or six inch high
structural steel base frame to use in lieu of a concrete pad. Alternatively, you
may use a shallow grease pan, pump the grease to your storage area, or pipe
the grease to an adjacent location where an elevation difference would permit
the use of a deeper pan. Use Figures 2 and 4 to locate the pit in your building
so that the smokestack can be installed vertically with no offsets (avoiding
building structural members). Whether a pad is used or not, the pit should be
installed on a solid, level, non-combustible surface.
DRAIN
There is one drain connection on the pit. This drain is used for draining the
grease and cleaning the cooking chamber. It extends from the side of the pit
near the center and close to the bottom. Install the drain valve onto the
threaded pipe nipple. If possible, a floor drain should be located near this
drain valve as suggested in Figures 1 and 3. This will be of convenience when
the pit is being cleaned.
3

AIR BALANCE
The building air balance is very important to the proper operation of your
Oyler Pit. The Oyler design is based on the induction of air into the pit
due to the “stack effect” of the chimney. The “stack effect” is the term
used to describe the upward airflow created in a chimney based on the
chimney height and the temperature difference between the bottom
(inlet) and top (discharge). This “stack effect” induces airflow into the
oven chamber via the front door opening (when the doors are open) and
into the firebox when the firebox is open or when the firebox combustion
air damper is open. Disruptions of this airflow can be caused by
mechanical exhaust fans, building that are too airtight (insufficient
openings for incoming air), and chimney downdrafts created by wind.
Such downdrafts are often created by nearby windbreaks, which are
taller than the chimney top. For this reason, the chimney should be four
feet taller than the surrounding rooftop including nearby parapet walls,
and taller than adjacent buildings and trees.
If air balance cannot be achieved by normal means, you should consider
using a fan to assist the stack effect. A fan inline or on the terminus of a
chimney can solve the problem. We recommend fans manufactured by
Exhausto (www.us.exhausto.com) installed with variable fan speed
controllers. These fans are available through J&R and other sources.
FURDOWN
As shown in Figure 1, we recommend a furdown (or draft curtain) surrounding
the pit. This traps nuisance smoke and allows it to be vented through the
annular space around the smokestack and out of the building. The furdown
can be constructed of metal, sheetrock, or other non-combustible materials. If
a furdown is used, we recommend that a 30-inch diameter metal sleeve be
installed between the ceiling opening and the roof flashing.
EYEBROW HOOD
As shown in Figure 3, another method to capture nuisance smoke is to install a
low volume eyebrow hood over the front of the pit. Please be advised that too
much exhaust volume for such hoods can negate the smoke/air draft design of
the pit, which is predicated on a front to rear air and smoke flow (see “Air
Balance” above).
Such hoods should be sized with fan volumes under 1000 CFM, with means to
adjust the airflow to achieve an appropriate air balance. The eyebrow hood can
be interlocked with the front door limit switch so that it is only energized when
the front doors are opened.
Eyebrow hoods must comply with NFPA 96 and local codes.
4

EXTERIOR INSTALLATION
There are two types of exterior installations. The unit can be placed entirely
outside or you may wish to have only the front part of the unit inside your
building. In either case, the unit should be painted and the top seams sealed
for exterior installation. A non-combustible weather covering (awning, shed,
etc.) must be installed over the portion of the unit that stands outside. Check
with local health codes for details regarding the installation and use of an
outdoor cooking device.
THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION
If this type if installation is selected (shown in Figure 3), we recommend that
only the front 2.25 inches of the pit protrude through the finished wall surface
to facilitate wall flashing/trim but to still allow access to the electrical junction
box. The side access panel to the motor/gearbox will be blocked but all
necessary access can be gained through the front access panel.
ELECTRICAL
The pit requires 240 volt, 1 phase, 70 amp electrical service. A switch or circuit
breaker should be installed near the pit. It will be necessary during certain
maintenance procedures to shut off the electrical supply to the pit. At these
times, it is a good safety procedure to tag the switch to guard against someone
inadvertently re-energizing the circuit. A junction box is secured to the top of
the pit near the front (see Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4). Your electrician should
extend a conduit from the pit junction box to a 240 volt supply in your building
using a grounded circuit. Please refer to your local electrical code for any other
requirements. CONNECT AT JUNCTION BOX ONLY.
5

SMOKESTACK
A smokestack is required for proper operation of the pit. It should be at least
10 feet in height (from the pit to the top of the stack) and 18 inches in diameter.
Please check your local mechanical and fire codes prior to installing the
smokestack TO ENSURE THAT THE PROPER STACK IS CHOSEN AND THAT
IT IS CORRECTLY INSTALLED. The stack should be straight and vertical with
no offsets. If offsets must be used, additional stack height will be required. If
the stack is penetrating your roof, it should extend at least four feet above the
roof line. If you ordered a stack kit, refer to Figure 5 for installation
instructions. A 30-inch diameter roof opening is recommended. This provides
a six-inch annular space around the smokestack for combustion air to enter
your building as well as a path for nuisance smoke to exit the building. Single
wall metal smokestacks should only be used in non-combustible installations
(again, with local code authority approval). This means that there will be
NOTHING combustible above the pit (building structure, ceiling, above ceiling
storage, roof, etc.). The preferred stack alternative is a manufactured Class A
stack, listed for use with solid fuels. These are available from J&R or from
other vendors and contractors. For these stacks we permit the use of 14-inch
diameter instead of 18-inch diameter. A stack connector adapter to transition
from 18-inch to 14-inch is available from J&R.
It is always recommended that a qualified roofing contractor be employed to
make penetrations and weather seals in any roof.
The smokestack must be vented in compliance with the National Fire Protection
Association Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces and Vents, NFPA No. 211. This
unit falls under the classification of “Residential or Low Heat Appliances”. If a
smokestack is installed which is more than 12 feet in height or if a mechanical
exhaust fan is employed, the draft could exceed the maximum indicated on the
nameplate (0.03 inches W.C.). The actual draft must be checked at a point in
the stack connector, not more than two inches up. If the draft is higher than
the maximum at full firing conditions, a barometric draft regulator must be
used. The draft regulator must be installed in the same room as the unit.
CLEARANCE
The unit must be installed to conform to the following minimum clearances
from any combustibles:
ABOVE TOP OF
CASING FROM FRONT FROM BACK FROM SIDES FROM CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
The unit must be installed on a non-combustible floor.
MEAT RACKS
Remove each meat rack from the cooking compartment. Install the lower racks
one at a time into the pit by hanging the racks on the horizontally matching
pins on the rotisserie wheels. When the lower shelves are installed, fit the
upper shelves onto the upper shelf brackets. (See page 7 for instructions on
installing Model 700 racks.)
6
12 48 666

MODEL 700 - WIRE RACKS
WIRE RACKS AND HANGERS ARE SHIPPED UNASSEMBLED SO THEY MAY
BE USED WHERE REQUIRED IN THE UNIT. HOWEVER, THEY MUST BE
PROPERLY ASSEMBLED BEFORE USE TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF A
RACK JAM.
PLEASE FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.
1) LOWER RACKS MUST HAVE THE FOUR (4) "NIBS" ON THEIR BOTTOM
SIDE REMOVED.
2) THE LOWER PAIR OF HOOKS ON EACH HANGER MUST BE BENT
CLOSED AROUND LOWER RACK SIDE RAILS.
3) UPPER RACKS MUST BE SECURELY LOCATED ON UPPER HOOKS
(DOUBLE) OR UPPER RAILS (TRIPLE) SO THEY HOLD
POSITION FIRMLY.
7

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E
START-UP
After the pit is installed, leveled, stacked, and connected to the electrical
supply, check for proper operation:
(a) Turn the thermostat set point above and then below the actual
temperature. The combustion air damper on the firebox should open and close.
Open the access door at the rear of the pit and verify that the “exit flue damper”
(see Figure 6) opens and closes in synchronization with the damper on the
firebox door. If the internal temperature of the pit is below 100° F., the
combustion air damper will remain open (the lowest setting on the thermostat
is 100° F.).
(b) Turn the pit On/Off switch to “On”, and push-in and hold the
mushroom switch – the racks should rotate. With the On/Off switch “On”, the
racks will rotate automatically when the front doors are closed and latched.
(c) Open the front doors or turn the “EVAC” switch on. Verify that the
two large bypass dampers open (located over the firebox).
BUILDING A FIRE
NEVER USE CHARCOAL LIGHTING FLUID, GASOLINE, OR OTHER
VOLATILE FUELS TO START THE FIRE. Load several small pieces of wood in
the firebox. Open the front oven doors or turn the “Evac” switch on. This
opens two dampers in the rear of the pit and allows the firebox to be vented
directly to the smokestack. Hickory wood is recommended whenever available.
Next in preference is oak or mesquite. Generally, however, any nut or fruit
bearing hardwood would be acceptable. For best results, the wood should be
relatively green (cut within two months). Start the fire by using kindling, or
safe (low volatility) solid fire starting aids. As the fire becomes established, add
more wood to the fire until the firebox is about one-half to three-fourths full.
Since you will probably be cooking every day, subsequent fire starting will be
much easier. Live red coals will last about two days in the firebox, so restarting
a fire is simply accomplished by loading fresh wood onto these live coals. Wood
should be 24 inches long and up to 8 inches in diameter (logs should be split if
larger than 8 inches in diameter).
OPENING THE OVEN DOORS
If the pit is fired-up and operating and the front doors are closed, there will be
dense smoke inside the oven. If you unlatch the doors and open them quickly,
you will get a face full of smoke. Instead, first turn the thermostat down to
close the Firebox damper and then turn the “Evac” switch on or slightly open
the front doors causing the bypass dampers to open and begin venting smoke
up the stack. Wait about 45 seconds (the slightly open doors will help evacuate
smoke by allowing a fresh air entry path into the pit) and then slowly open the
doors. (Older pits without the motorized “Evac” function are similarly
evacuated, but the front doors control the dampers by a mechanical linkage, so
they need to be opened about 1/3 to 1/2 way).
8

MEAT LOADING
The first time the pit is fired, it is recommended that you allow it to operate for
several hours while empty. This allows any residues (oil, paper, etc.) to be
removed. After this is done, you may load meat onto the racks. Take care
when loading to keep the load balanced. Place meat on each rack so that the
rack remains level (does not tilt forward or rearward). Also, distribute the entire
load so that the rotisserie is relatively balanced. In other words, if you have a
pit with six racks, you should distribute about one-sixth of the entire load on
each rack. If you are cooking very large items such as turkeys, take special
care to insure that they cannot shift and roll off the shelves while cooking. You
need to secure these large items to the shelves with butcher’s string or wire, or
“chock” the items with stainless steel or rolled aluminum foil to prevent
movement.
Be sure that there is adequate clearance between the top of the meat items and
the top of the cooking compartment. The most serious problem that can occur
in your unit is a “rack jam”, in which racks become engaged between the
rotisserie wheels and the body of the cooking compartment. If a jam should
occur, the rotisserie wheels will become locked. There is an overload device in
the electrical circuit to protect the motor. This overload device should trip in
the event of a jam but damage to racks and other components may have been
incurred. A jam usually occurs when the pit is improperly loaded. Sometimes
all it takes is for one piece of meat to fall from its rack. This piece can fall onto
other pieces causing them to fall. Soon there is an obstruction large enough in
the bottom of the pit for a rack to hit it and become dislodged from its pins. If
that rack becomes engaged in other racks, or one of the rotisserie wheels, then
a rack jam occurs. By carefully loading your pit, you should never have to
worry about this problem.
After completing the meat loading, always observe at least one full revolution to
make sure that all shelves are properly balanced.
After the meat is loaded, set the thermostat to the desired temperature and
close the oven doors. Refer to the table on the next page for cooking directions.
9

SUGGESTED COOKING TIMES AND
TEMPERATURES
MEAT ITEM TEMPERATURE* COOKING TIME**
Beef Brisket
(12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours
Pork Shoulder
(12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours
Pork Ribs
(3 and down) 250° F. 3 Hours
Sausage 225° F. 1 Hour
Hams (pre-cooked) 225° F. 2 Hours
Turkeys (whole) 250° F. 45 Min.per Lb.
Chicken Halves 250° F. 2 Hours
*Sensed at the midpoint of the pit.
**These cooking times are based on a full loading in a Model 700 Pit (18 racks)
and apply to the meat on the bottom racks. With decreased loadings, the
cooking times should be reduced. The meat on the top racks will cook in less
time.
With the exception of turkeys and ribs, most pit operators do nothing to prepare
meats prior to cooking. Usually, a dry seasoning mix (pepper, paprika, brown
sugar, etc.) is sprinkled or rubbed onto ribs. Sometimes a liquid mixture of
spices is injected beneath the skins of turkeys. Refer to our recipe book for
more detailed information.
GREASE
Grease and water from the meat you cook will accumulate in the bottom of the
cooking compartment. This should be drained from the pit daily.
NOTE:Drain all grease and water out of the pit immediately after cooking
poultry or seafood.
FIREBOX ASHES
Remove excess ashes daily to provide good air circulation among the logs in the
firebox. Leave enough live coals in the firebox to ignite a new fire. Most
operators shovel the ashes out of the firebox and into a metal container (such
as a twenty-gallon ash can) and store this container in a safe location (away
from any combustibles).
10

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
MODEL 700E AND MODEL 1300E
PIT DESIGN
Smoke and heat from the firebox enter the cooking compartment through
refractory-lined flues. Smoke exits this area through a separate flue.
Temperature control is effected by regulating the flow of combustion air into the
firebox and the discharge from the cooking compartment. Dampers in the rear
of the pit open in conjunction with the front doors so that smoke is carried out
of the building through the smokestack rather than exiting out the oven doors.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
DAILY
1) Drain liquid from the pit and discard.
2) Remove excess ashes from the firebox and store/discard safely.
3) Clean the inside of the front doors and the inside of the firebox
door.
WEEKLY It is recommended that once a week you shut your unit down and
clean it as follows:
Racks: Remove the racks from the pit and either
(a) Use detergent and hot water to clean them, or
(b) Use a high pressure hot water cleaning machine, or
(c) Use a wire brush to remove the residue, or
(d) If time permits, place the racks in a vat filled with water and a
caustic chemical such as lye (or firebox ashes for economy). The
racks will soak clean in approximately 24 hours. You may
consider purchasing an extra set of racks so one set can clean
while cooking with the other set.
(e) Always rinse with clean water after using cleaner or lye.
Oven Interior: After draining all the liquid from the pit, you can either
(a) Use detergent (or buffered oven cleaner) and high pressure water,
or
(b) Use a steam cleaning machine, or
(c) If high pressure water or a steam cleaning machine is not available,
use a high strength buffered oven cleaner and spray it onto the
interior oven surfaces. Dilute the cleaner as directed on the label.
Use some type of pump sprayer to apply the solution onto the oven
interior surfaces. Let the solution set for about 15 minutes and
wash the interior walls with water (hot water, if available), or
Use a scraper and shovel to remove the residue and flush with detergent and
hot water.
11

(e) Leave the racks in place and fill the pit with a hot water/oven
cleaner solution up to the middle of the exit flue opening. Heat the
pit up to 250° and allow the racks to revolve. Continue for at least
4 hours, drain and rinse the pit thoroughly.
Drain the washings from the pit through the drain valve (see Figure 1). If a
floor drain is not adjacent to the drain valve, attach a hose or pipe to the valve
and extend it
over to a suitable drain.
PLEASE NOTE
Methods (a), (b), and (c) are operable only if pit is cleaned every week. If several
weeks pass between cleanings, the cleaner will not penetrate and remove the
residue.
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST
EVERY 45 DAYS
BEARINGS:Remove the access cover below the front oven doors. The rotisserie
bearings have lubrication extensions that terminate with grease fittings located
near the motor starter enclosure. Use a high temperature grease (Lubri-Plate
930-2 is recommended) and a cartridge-type automotive grease gun. NOTE:
Low-temperature grease will harden at high temperatures and damage the
bearings.
CHAIN:Lubricate the chain with the same high temperature grease. Open the
front access door below the pit doors to access the chain. Check the chain
tension and adjust as necessary.
EXIT FLUE CLEANING:Clean this flue thoroughly from inside the cooking
compartment or remove the rear access cover adjacent to the flue and clean it
from the rear of the pit with the flue damper open.
NOTE: If this flue is not kept clean, the solids accumulation will corrode the
flue and/or retard the passage of smoke from the oven to the stack, causing
soot and/or temperature control problems.
EVERY 6 MONTHS
1. Inspect and repair as needed all gaskets. This includes the front door
gaskets, the two bypass gaskets, and the exit flue gasket.
2. Inspect and adjust, repair, or replace the front door latch.
3. Check the temperature control mechanism for proper operation. Cycle
the thermostat and make sure the combustion air damper and exit flue
damper are opening and closing (tightly). Lubricate all linkages at the
rear of the pit. Remove the thermostat faceplate and spray the moving
parts with a spray lubricant.
12