J&R 700E Operation manual

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OYLER BARBECUE PIT
MODEL 700E/ 1300E
OPERATIONS AND SERVICE MANUAL
J&R MANUFACTURING, INC.(972) 285-4855
4855 (Texas)
820 W. Kearney (800) 527-
4831 (All 50 States & Canada)
Suite B (972) 289-
0801 (Parts & Service)
Mesquite, TX 75149 (972) 288-9488 (Fax)
J&R MANUFACTURING, INC. (972) 285-4855 (Texas)
820 W. Kearney (800) 527-4831 (50 states & Canada)
Suite B (972) 289-0801 (Parts and Service)
Mesquite, Texas 75149 (972) 288-9488 (Fax)

SN _______________

WARNINGS!
Disposal of Ashes
Dedicated flue
DANGER-Risk of Fire or Explosion
Do not burn garbage, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids
Creosote – Formation and Need for Removal –
If this unit is to be directly vented (no exhaust hood) do not connect to a flue serving
another appliance.
WARNING-Risk of Fire
Do not operate with flue draft exceeding 0.03 in. water column.
Do not operate fuel loading or ash removal doors open.
Do not store fuel or other combustible material within marked installationclearances.
Inspect and clean flues and chimney regularly
CAUTION-Hot Surfaces
If the oven temperature reaches 450 degrees F, a high limit thermostat will
temporarily interrupt the temperature control function (it will automatically resume
when it cools down). If this occurs (or if the indicating thermostat shows an
abnormally high temperature) and the front doors feel excessively hot, DO NOT
OPEN THE DOORS,
Keep children away.
Do not touch during operation.
as there may be a grease fire inside. Open the doors only
after it cools down. Contact your supervisor (if applicable) while continuing to
observe the pit. If you observe any flames, or perceive any fire threat,
immediately contact the local fire department.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. J&R offers ash
carts suitable for this purpose. The closed container of ashes should be placed on
a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials,
pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders
have thoroughly cooled.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which
combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense
in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote
residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at
least twice monthly to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote
has accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.


OYLER
BARBECUE PIT
MODELS 700E AND 1300E
OPERATIONS AND
SERVICE MANUAL
MANUFACTURED BY:
J & R MANUFACTURING, INC.
Rev. 06-17


CONTENTS
FIGURE 3
DIRECT VENT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 4
MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING 14
TROUBLESHOOTING 17
FIGURE 1 – SUGGESTED INSTALLATION 22
DIRECT VENT
FIGURE 2– MODEL 700E DETAIL SHEET 23
– THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION 24
FIGURE 4– MODEL 1300E DETAIL SHEET 25
FIGURE 5–SUGGESTED INSTALLATION 26
EXHAUST HOOD VENT
MODEL 700E & 1300E WIRING 32
SCHEMATICS– 240 VOLT
THERMOSTAT, ACTUATOR, 36
AND TIMER MANUALS
FIGURE 5A EXHAUST HOOD DESIGN 27
FIGURE 5B SMOKESTACK INSTALLATION 28
FIGURE 6 – COOKING MODE 29
FIGURE 7 –DAMPER ACTUATORS 30
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 11
MODEL 700E/1300E COOKING MODES 1
WARRANTY 51
WOOD SOURCE 52

OYLER BARBECUE PIT
MODEL 700E / 1300E
COOK MODES
The “E” version of the Oyler Barbecue Pit Model 700/1300 uses electric heating
elements in addition to wood fuel for the cooking heat source. Additional
controls allow the operator to cook in one of two “Cook” Modes, “Standard” or
“Dual Fuel”. In addition, a “Cook and Hold” feature can be utilized in either
mode. The basic operation and use of the Oyler Barbecue Pit has not been
altered. The control design of this unit incorporates the same basic operation
sequencing of the standard 700/1300 series. Therefore, the basic Operating
and Maintenance Instructions apply and should be referred to.
STANDARD COOK MODE
This mode allows the use of electric heating elements in addition to wood fuel.
Please note: the convection fan is engaged continuously in this mode, so overall
cooking times will be reduced.
Preheat pit in the “Standard Mode”. Load product and allow the pit to return to
the desired cooking temperature. Once the unit has reached desired cooking
temperature, turn the “HTR.ELM” switch to the “ON” position. A time delay
built into the “Dual Fuel” circuitry will allow the wood fuel to be consumed first,
utilizing the electric heating elements to “finish” the product. Used in this
method, the operator can regulate the use of the heating elements (and wood
fuel) in the cook cycle. A fully “stoked” firebox will delay (and may prevent) the
use of the electric heating elements until late in the cook cycle. Consequently,
a very small amount of wood fuel will bring on the elements much earlier. In
either case the electric heating elements will guarantee that the thermostat set
point will be maintained to the end of the cooking cycle.
Optional method for use in the “Dual Fuel” mode: Same as described above, except turn the red
switch labeled “HTR.ELM” to the “ON” position at the beginning of the preheat operation.
Using the pit in this method will allow the time delay for the electric heating elements to “time
out” during preheat and the electric elements will be used simultaneously with the wood fuel
from the beginning of the cook cycle.
Operation of the 700/1300 “E” Barbecue Pit in this mode is the
same as described on page 8under the paragraph titled “Start Up”.
Turn the black “COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “COOK”
position. The yellow “EVAC” switch should be in the “ON” position and the
“HTR.ELM” switch should be in the “OFF” position. Build a fire in the
firebox using fresh cut hardwood.
Please note: using the “EVAC” MODE WILL ACCELERATE
THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A FIRE IN THE FIREBOX. Once an adequate
fire has been established in the firebox, turn the “EVAC” switch to the
“OFF” position and set the thermostat to the desired cooking temperature.
For best results, allow the pit to preheat prior to loading the product.
DUAL FUEL MODE
1

COOK AND HOLD MODE
The difference between this mode and “Cook” mode (“Standard or “Dual Fuel”)
is the temperature control is shifted away from the primary thermostat to a
fixed secondary (or Hold) thermostat after the operator set timer, located on the
instrument panel, counts down. To utilize this feature, simply switch the black
“COOK/OFF – COOK/HOLD” switch to the “Cook/Hold” position and set the
timer for the amount of time you wish the unit to remain in the “Cook” mode
before going into the “Hold” mode. This feature can be utilized when cooking in
either the “Standard” or “Duel Fuel” modes.
One point to remember when setting the timer, is that there is a slow “ramp-
down” from the primary (initial) thermostat set point to the secondary (Hold)
thermostat set point (non adjustable: fixed at 150º F). During this “ramp-down”
the product will continue to cook, therefore, setting the timer for the same
amount of time (cook cycle) that you would normally use will produce an over
cooked product. The timer setting should be significantly reduced to
compensate for this “ramp-down”. Some experimentation by the operator will
be necessary to fine-tune the use of the “Hold” feature.
Example: Primary thermostat set at 200º F for cooking beef brisket. You might
set the timer for 8 hours (assuming a 4 hour “Hold” period).
Please note: In the “Dual Fuel” mode the convection fan is engaged
continuously. However, when control is shifted to the secondary (Hold)
thermostat in the “Cook and Hold” mode the convection fan will cycle off each
time the fixed thermostat reaches its set point.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE NOTE:
In addition to the maintenance procedures described elsewhere in this manual, the electric heating
elements and the convection fan impeller should be inspected regularly, daily if possible, and
cleaned if necessary. If there is a heavy build up of soot or creosote, these surfaces should be
cleaned with a stiff brush and/or a commercial degreaser. This is especially important if the
“Dual Fuel” mode is not used each cook cycle.
Newer units with Idec "RTE" Timers:
Older units with Omron Timers:
Red light will illuminate, and green light will begin flashing, then the red and green lights will remain
illuminated (steady, not flashing) when the timer times out. For these timers the factory settings are
mode: A, time range: 12, time units: hours.
Green "PWR" light will remain on, red "Out" light will illuminate when timer has timed out. For these
timers the factory settings are mode: A, scale: 0-10, range: h.
2
NOTE:

3

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
SHIPPING
HANDLING
FOUNDATION
DRAIN
There is one drain connection on the pit. This drain is used for draining the
grease and cleaning the cooking chamber. It extends from the side of the pit
near the center and close to the bottom. Install the drain valve onto the
threaded pipe nipple. If possible, a floor drain should be located near this
drain valve as suggested in Figures 1, 3, and 5. This will be of convenience
when the pit is being cleaned.
It is recommended that the unit be placed on a four to six inch thick concrete
pad as shown on Figures 1, 3, and 5. This elevates the pit drain valve an
additional four to six inches off the floor and facilitates grease handling. With
a pad, the bottom of the grease drain valve would be nine to eleven inches off
your finished floor versus five inches without a pad. We offer a four or
six inch high structural steel base frame to use in lieu of a concrete pad.
Alternatively, you may use a shallow grease pan, pump the grease to your
storage area, or pipe the grease to an adjacent location where an elevation
difference would permit the use of a deeper pan. Use Figures 2 and 4 to locate
the pit in your building so that the smokestack can be installed vertically
with no offsets (avoiding building structural members). Whether a pad is
used or not, the pit must be installed on a solid, level, non-combustible
surface.
MODEL 700EAND MODEL 1300E
The unit will be shipped fully assembled. A Model 700Ewill weigh 4,200
pounds and a Model 1300Ewill weigh 6,600 pounds. The meat racks
will be packed inside the cooking compartment. If you ordered a smokestack
kit, it will either be packed inside, or shipped on a separate pallet.There will
be a grease drain valve packed inside the firebox, along with the
firebox door handle. To move a Model 700Einto your building,
you will need a minimum opening of 60 inches in width and 83 inches in
height (60” X 86”). For a Model 1300E, you will need a minimum opening
of 72 inches in width and 92inches in height (72”X 95”). The height
requirements can be reduced by 3” by removing the damper actuator motors
on the top of the unit.
A Model 700Ecan be handled with a forklift if the lift has a
6,000 pound capacity. A Model 1300Ewill require an 8,000 pound lift.
The extra capacity lifts are necessary due to the size of the units.
Whenever possible, the unit should be trucked from the rear. Alternatively,
a crane can be used by rigging onto the four lifting lugs welded onto the top of
the unit
.
4

EXTERIOR INSTALLATION
ELECTRICAL
The unit must be installed to conform to the following minimum clearances
from any combustibles:
ABOVE TOP OF
CASING FROM FRONT FROM BACK FROM SIDES FROM CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
The unit must be installed on a non-combustible floor.
12 48 666
CLEARANCES
There are two types of exterior installations. The unit can be placed entirely
outside or you may wish to have only the front part of the unit inside your
building. In either case, the unit should be painted and the top seams sealed
for exterior installation. A non-combustible weather covering (awning, shed,
etc.) must be installed over the portion of the unit that stands outside. Check
with local health codes for details regarding the installation and use of an
outdoor cooking device.
THROUGH THE WALL INSTALLATION
If this type if installation is selected (shown in Figure 3), we recommend that
only the front 2.25 inches of the pit protrude through the finished wall surface
to facilitate wall flashing/trim but to still allow access to the electrical junction
box. The side access panel to the motor/gearbox will be blocked but all
necessary access can be gained through the front access panel.
5
The pit requires 240 volt, 1 phase, 70 amp electrical service. A switch or circuit
breaker should be installed near the pit. It will be necessary during certain
maintenance procedures to shut off the electrical supply to the pit. It is a good
safety procedure to tag the switch to guard against someone inadvertently re-
energizing the circuit. A junction box is secured to the top of the pit near the
front (see Figures 1, 2, and 4). Your electrician should extend a conduit from
the pit junction box to a 240 volt supply in your building using a grounded
circuit. Please refer to your local electrical code for any other requirements.
CONNECT AT JUNCTION BOX ONLY.

Venting Requirements
Our barbecue ovens are listed under multiple standards, including U.L. 737 (Fireplace
Stoves), U.L. 2162 (Commercial Wood-Fired Baking Ovens), and U.L. 391 (Solid-Fuel
and Combination-Fuel Central and Supplementary Furnaces. These listing provide two
alternatives for exhausting our units: direct venting and exhaust hood venting.
In all cases, it is imperative to obtain the approval of the AHJ (Authority Having
Jurisdiction). This will typically be the mechanical inspection department of the
local municipality’s building inspection division and/or the local fire marshal.
Our listings under U.L. 737 and U.L. 391 permit direct venting and the
ventilation standard cited in each is NFPA 211 (Standard for Chimneys,
Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid-Fuel Burning Appliances). All of our enclosed
ovens are designed to be vented via a smokestack (chimney) with natural draft.
All models incorporate smoke-control (bypass) mechanisms to contain smoke
spillage when the oven doors or firebox doors are opened.
In all cases in which combustible construction is present, a factory-built Type
HT chimney is required (refer to NFPA 211 6.3.1.2 and U.L. 103). Examples of
such chimneys would be Selkirk “Ultra-Temp” and DuraVent “DuraTech”.
Option One: Direct Venting (Figures 1 and 3)
The chimney should be a minimum of 10 feet in height (oven top to chimney
top) and 14 to 18 inches in diameter. It should be straight (no offsets) and
vertical. This application falls under the classification of “Low Heat Non-
Residential Appliance” with continuous outlet flue gas temperatures less than
1000 degrees F. The maximum draft is 0.03 inches water column and a
barometric draft regulator must be used if the draft exceeds that draft at full
firing conditions. This can occur as an example when the chimney is very high
as might be the case in multi-story buildings.
If no combustible construction is present (examples: exterior installations or
installations in which the oven is faced into a non-combustible exterior wall
and the chimney is either uncovered or covered with a non-combustible
weather covering), then a single wall metal chimney (Figure 5B)is acceptable
if approved by the AHJ .
6

provide ventilation and combustion air supply to allow proper combustion of
fuel, chimney draft, and maintenance of safe temperatures… where buildings
are so tight that normal infiltration does not provide the necessary air, outside
air shall be introduced.”
for Commercial Cooking Operations) as its ventilation standard. While NFPA
96 allows direct ventilation with factory-built grease ducts or properly
constructed welded ducts (with fire-rated enclosures), it also permits the
exhaust hood ventilation option for our units.
Option Two: Exhaust Hood Venting (Figure 5)
U.L. 2162 cites NFPA 96 (Standard for Ventilation Control and Fire Protection
Combustion Air
Make sure adequate combustion air is available. Excerpt from NFPA 211 12.3:
“Solid-fuel burning devices shall be installed in a location and manner so as to
Combustion Air
Make sure adequate combustion air is available. Excerpt from NFPA 211 12.3:
“Solid-fuel burning devices shall be installed in a location and manner so as to
The building air balance is very important to the proper operation of your Oyler
Pit. The Oyler design is based on the induction of air into the pit due to the
“stack effect” of the chimney. The “stack effect” is the term used to describe
the upward airflow created in a chimney based on the chimney height and the
temperature difference between the bottom (inlet) and top (discharge). This
“stack effect” induces airflow into the oven chamber via the front door opening
(when the doors are open) and/or into the firebox when either the firebox door
is open along with open bypass dampers or an open exit flue damper, or, if the
firebox door closed, when the firebox combustion air damper is open.
Disruptions of this airflow can be caused by mechanical exhaust fans,
buildingsthat are too airtight (insufficient openings for incoming air), and
chimney downdrafts created by wind. Such downdrafts are often created by
nearby windbreaks, which are taller than the chimney top. For this reason, the
chimney should be four feet taller than the surrounding rooftop including
nearby parapet walls, and taller than adjacent buildings and trees. If air
balance cannot be achieved by normal means, you should consider using a fan
to assist the stack effect. A fan on the terminus of a chimney can solve the
problem. We recommend fans manufactured by Enervex (www.enervex.com)
such as their Model GSV installed with a variable-speed controller. These fans
are available through J&R and other sources.
7
Air Balance

The recommended exhaust volumes are based on the specifications from the
2009 International Mechanical Code Section 507.13.1 (Extra Heavy Duty
Cooking Appliances, Single Canopy, 700 CFM per linear foot of hood). Wall-
mounted hoods will require less volume (550 CFM per linear foot). These
drawings specify a 12 inch hood overhang at the front oven doors and the side
containing the fire box door with a 6 inch overhang on the non-active sides (no
oven or firebox doors).
For proper design of a hood over our ovens, please refer to Figure 5A
(Figures 5 and 5A depict a single canopy hood design).
It is very important that the filter bank be located toward the rear of the
unit (near the chimney connector). This simulates the natural-draft of a
chimney above the chimney connector for which these units were engineered
to control both temperature and smoke.
8

Meat Racks and Hangers
Type 3. Double hangers with two pairs of hooks on each hanger (see photo on the next
page). For this style you also have to follow the directions in Illustrations 1 and
2 on the next page.
Wire racks & hangers are shipped unassembled so that they may be used where
required in the unit. They must be properly assembled before use to reduce the
possibility of a rack jam.
When installing the racks and hangers, install the 12 hangers and 6
bottom racks first, and then install the upper racks.
Type 2. Triple hangers with wire hooks on the lowest level and slide rails for the middle
and upper levels (see photo on the next page). For this style, you must follow
the directions in Illustrations 1 and 2 on the next page. The “nibs” on the
middle and upper racks must be properly secured in the slide rails to prevent
a rack jam.
NOTE: YOU MUST ALWAYS have a rack installed in the lowest position
of the hanger to avoid a rack jam.
NOTE: With all three types, YOU MUST ALWAYS have a rack installed in the
lowest position of the hanger to avoid a rack jam. Never mix hanger types (use all
double hangers or all triple hangers).
Model 700E
The hangers for Model 700Es will be one of the following:
Type 1. Triple hangers with three pairs of wire pegs per hanger (starting mid- 2017:
see photo on the next page.
9
Model 1300 E
All Model 1300Erack hangers are “triple” (designed for a set of three racks per pair of
hangers). Each hanger has three pairs of wire loops (see photo on the next page). Each
rack will have corner “voids” through which the wire loops will be inserted. Hangers for
older units (not shown) may have three pairs of ferrules instead of wire loops, and the
racks associated with them will have rings in the corners through which the ferrules are
inserted.

Illustration 1 Illustration 2
Lower-most (bottom) racks for hanger types 2
and 3 must have the 4 “nibs” (if present)
removed from the lowest racks.* For Type 3
hangers, the upper rack “nibs”must also be
removed. For Type 2 hangers, leave the
“nibs”in place for the middle and top
positions. For Type 1 hangers, nibs can be left
in place (no removal necessary).
For hanger types 2 and 3 only, the
lowest (bottom) pair of hooks on
each hanger must be bent closed
around the lower rack side rails.
This is not required for Type 1
hangers.
Corner
“void”
“Nib”
* Remove the nib by using a
large, adjustable wrench.
Tighten the wrench jaws
around the nib and bend the
nib upward and downward
until it snaps off.
Hooks or
pegs go
here for
Type 1
Here for
Types 2
and 3
Model 1300ERack Model 700ERack
Model 700EType 1 Model 700EType 2 Model 700EType 3 Model 1300E
10

START-UP
After the pit is installed, leveled, stacked, and connected to the electrical
supply, check for proper operation:
(a) Turn the thermostat set point above and then below the actual
(c) Open the front doors or turn the “EVAC” switch on. Verify that the
two large bypass dampers open (located over the firebox).
BUILDING A FIRE
OPENING THE OVEN DOORS
temperature. The combustion air damper on the firebox should open and close.
Open the access door at the rear of the pit and verify that the “exit flue damper”
NEVER USE CHARCOAL LIGHTING FLUID, GASOLINE, OR OTHER
VOLATILE FUELS TO START THE FIRE. Load several small pieces of wood in
the firebox. Open the front oven doors or turn the “Evac” switch on. This
opens two dampers in the rear of the pit and allows the firebox to be vented
directly to the smokestack. Hickory wood is recommended whenever available.
Next in preference is oak or mesquite. Generally, however, any nut or fruit
bearing hardwood would be acceptable. For best results, the wood should be
relatively green (cut within two months). Start the fire by using kindling, or
safe (low volatility) solid fire starting aids. As the fire becomes established, add
more wood to the fire until the firebox is about one-half to three-fourths full.
Since you will probably be cooking every day, subsequent fire starting will be
much easier. Live red coals will last about two days in the firebox, so restarting
a fire is simply accomplished by loading fresh wood onto these live coals. Wood
should be 24 inches long and up to 8 inches in diameter (logs should be split if
larger than 8 inches in diameter).
(see Figure 6) opens and closes in synchronization with the damper on the
firebox door (note: if the internal temperature of the oven is below the
lowest setting on the thermostat, these dampers will remain open).
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
(b) Energize the Rotisserie (or Roti) switch and push-in and hold the
Rack Advance mushroom switch (green) – the racks should rotate. With the
Rotisserie switch energized, the racks will rotate automatically when the front
doors are closed and latched.
45
MODEL 700EAND MODEL 1300E
If the pit is fired-up and operating and the front doors are closed, there will be
dense smoke inside the oven. If you unlatch the doors and open them quickly,
you will get a face full of smoke. Instead, first turn the thermostat down to
close the Firebox damper and then turn the “Evac” switch on or slightly open
the front doors causing the bypass dampers to open and begin venting smoke
up the stack. Wait about seconds (the slightly open doors will help evacuate
smoke by allowing a fresh air entry path into the pit) and then slowly open the
doors.
11

MEAT LOADING
Distribute the entire load so that the rotisserie is relatively balanced. In other
words, if you have a pit with six racks, you should distribute about
one-sixth of the entire load on each rack. If you are cooking very large items
such as turkeys, take special care to insure that they cannot shift and roll off the
shelves while cooking. You need to secure these large items to the shelves with
butcher’s string or wire, or “chock” the items with stainless steel or rolled
aluminum foil to prevent movement.
Be sure that there is adequate clearance between the top of the meat items and
the top of the cooking compartment. The most serious problem that can occur
in your unit is a “rack jam”, in which racks become engaged between the
rotisserie wheels and the body of the cooking compartment. If a jam should
occur, the rotisserie wheels will become locked. There is an overload device in
the electrical circuit to protect the motor. This overload device should trip in
the event of a jam but damage to racks and other components may have been
incurred. A jam usually occurs when the pit is improperly loaded. Sometimes
all it takes is for one piece of meat to fall from its rack. This piece can fall onto
other pieces causing them to fall. Soon there is an obstruction large enough in
the bottom of the pit for a rack to hit it and become dislodged from its pins. If
that rack becomes engaged in other racks, or one of the rotisserie wheels, then
a rack jam occurs. By carefully loading your pit, you should never have to
worry about this problem.
After completing the meat loading, always observe at least one full revolution to
make sure that all shelves are properly balanced.
After the meat is loaded, set the thermostat to the desired temperature and
close the oven doors. Refer to the table on the next page for cooking directions.
The first time the pit is fired, it is recommended that you allow it to operate
or several hours while empty. This allows any residues (oil, paper, etc.
to be removed. After this is done, you may load meat onto the racks.
Take care when loading to keep the load balanced. Place meat on each
rack so that the rack remains level (does not tilt forward or rearward).
Do not allow meat to extend beyond the rack surface.
12

SUGGESTED COOKING TIMES AND
TEMPERATURES
MEAT ITEM TEMPERATURE* COOKING TIME**
Beef Brisket
(12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours
Pork Shoulder
(12 – 14 Lbs.) 200° F. 14 Hours
Pork Ribs
(3 and down) 250° F. 3 Hours
Sausage 225° F. 1 Hour
Hams (pre-cooked) 225° F. 2 Hours
Turkeys (whole) 250° F. 45 Min.per Lb.
Chicken Halves 250° F. 2 Hours
*Sensed at the midpoint of the pit.
GREASE
Grease and water from the meat you cook will accumulate in the bottom of the
cooking compartment. This should be drained from the pit daily.
NOTE:Drain all grease and water out of the pit immediately after cooking
poultry or seafood.
FIREBOX ASHES
**These cooking times are based on a full loading in a Models700E and 1300E
ru
For Dual Fuel Mode (using electrical heating elements), please refer to
pages 1 and 2 of this manual.
Remove excess ashes daily to provide good air circulation among the logs in the
firebox. Leave enough live coals in the firebox to ignite a new fire. Most
operators shovel the ashes out of the firebox and into a metal container (such
as a J&R Mfg. ash cart and store this container in a safe location (away from
combustibles).
13
Pits(18 racks) and apply to the meat on the bottom racks. With decreased
loadings, the cooking times should be reduced. The meat on the top racks
will cook in less time.
With the exception of turkeys and ribs, most pit operators do nothing to prepare
meats prior to cooking. Usually, a dry seasoning mix (pepper, paprika, brown
sugar, etc.) is sprinkled or bbed onto ribs. Sometimes a liquid mixture of
spices is injected beneath the skins of turkeys. Refer to our recipe book for
more detailed information.
This manual suits for next models
1
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