Janome HD523 User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

1
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including
the following:
This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER— To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug
this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before
cleaning.
WARNING— To reduce the risk of burns, re, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is
used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner’s manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner’s manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly,
if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water.
Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination,
repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this
sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep ngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine
needle and/or cutting blade.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot,
and the like.
15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating,
or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner’s manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant
National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products. If in doubt please contact your
retailer for guidance. (European Union only)
For Europe only:
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made
by children without supervision.
For outside Europe (except U.S.A and Canada):
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision
or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts.................................................... 3
Standard Accessories ......................................... 4
GETTING READY TO SEW
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply .... 5
Controlling Sewing Speed ................................... 5
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot ............ 6
To Attach and Remove the Foot Holder .............. 6
Presser Foot Lifter............................................... 7
Pressure Regulator.............................................. 7
Changing Needle................................................. 8
To check the needle ............................................ 8
Thread and Needle Chart.................................... 8
Setting Spool Pins ............................................... 9
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case ............. 9
Winding the Bobbin ........................................... 10
Threading Bobbin Case .................................... 10
Threading the Machine...................................... 11
Needle Threader ............................................... 11
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread............................... 12
Thread Tension Dial .......................................... 12
Stitch Selector Dial ............................................ 13
Stitch Length Dial .............................................. 13
Stitch Width Dial ................................................ 14
Reverse Stitch Button........................................ 14
Dropping or Raising the Feed Dog.................... 14
BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing ....................................... 15
To Change Sewing Direction............................. 15
Seam Guide Lines............................................. 16
Turning a Square Corner................................... 16
Variable Needle Position................................... 16
Zigzag Stitching................................................. 17
UTILITY STITCHING
Tricot Stitching................................................... 18
Knit Stitch .......................................................... 18
Straight Stretch.................................................. 19
Rick-rack Stretch ............................................... 19
Buttonhole ....................................................20-21
Adjusting buttonhole stitch density.................... 21
Sewing Buttons ................................................. 22
Zipper Application ............................................. 23
Blind Hem Stitch................................................ 24
Rolled Hem........................................................ 25
DECORATIVE STITCHING
Shell Tuck .......................................................... 26
Box Stitching ..................................................... 26
Fagoting............................................................. 27
Smocking........................................................... 27
Applique ............................................................ 28
Stretch Stitch Patterns....................................... 29
Decorative Satin Stitch Patterns........................ 29
TAKING CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Hook.......... 30
Cleaning the Feed Dog ..................................... 30
Troubleshooting................................................. 31

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ESSENTIAL PARTS
Names of Parts
Reverse stitch button
Stitch selector dial
Stitch length dial
Stitch width dial
Bobbin winder stopper
Bobbin winder spindle
Spool pins
Bobbin winder thread guide
Top cover thread guide
Thread take-up lever
Thread tension dial
Pressure regulator
Face plate
Thread cutter
Needle threader
Needle plate
Extension table
Lever
Presser foot holder
Needle clamp screw
Needle
Presser foot (zigzag foot)
Setscrew
Carrying handle
Handwheel
Ventilation opening
Power switch
Machine socket
Presser foot lifter
!2
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!7
NOTE:
Design and specications are subject to
change without prior notice.
NOTE:
To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying
handle with your hand, and support the sewing
machine with the other hand.
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Standard Accessories
Bobbin
Needle set
Seam ripper/ Buttonhole opener
Buttonhole foot
Hemmer foot
Zipper foot
Satin stitch foot
Hemming guide
Oil
Screwdriver (large)
Screwdriver (small)
Foot control*
Dust cover
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* The power supply plug (Foot control) included
may differ from the illustration.

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qConnecting the Machine to the Power
Supply
zTurn off the power switch.
xInsert the machine plug into the machine
socket.
cInsert the power supply plug into the outlet.
vTurn on the power switch to activate the power
and sewing light.
qPower supply plug*
wPower switch
eOutlet
rMachine socket
tMachine plug
* The power supply plug included may differ from
the illustration.
t
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the
faster the machine runs.
CAUTION:
Before connecting the power cord, make
sure the voltage and frequency shown on the
machine conform to your electrical power.
NOTE:
While in operation, always keep your eyes
on the sewing area, and do not touch any
moving parts such as the thread take-up lever,
handwheel or needle.
Always turn off the power switch and unplug
from the power supply:
– when leaving the machine unattended.
– when attaching or removing parts.
– when clearning the machine.
Do not place anything on the foot control,
otherwise the machine will run inadvertently.
GETTING READY TO SEW

6
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q
To Attach and Remove the Presser Foot
To remove
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the
needle to its highest position. Raise the presser
foot. Press the lever on the back of the foot
holder.
The presser foot will drop off.
q
Lever
To attach
Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot
lines up just under the groove of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.
w Groove
ePin
CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch when changing the
presser foot.
To Attach and Remove the Foot Holder
q
Setscrew
w
Foot holder
e
Presser bar
To remove
Remove the setscrew qby turning it
counterclockwise with a screwdriver.
To attach
Match the hole in the foot holder w with the
threaded hole in the presser bar e.
Fit the setscrew qinto the hole.
Tighten the setscrew qby turning it clockwise
with screwdriver.
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7
Presser Foot Lifter
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 0.6 cm (1/4˝) higher than
the normal up position for easy removal of the
presser foot or to help you to place heavy fabric
under the foot.
qLowest position
wNormal up position
eHighest position
e
w
q
Pressure Regulator
The Presser foot pressure adjusting dial should
be set at 3 for regular sewing.
Reduce the pressure to 2 for applique, cutwork,
drawnwork, basting and embroidery for better
maneuverability of fabric.
Velours and knit with a lot of stretch may require a
1 setting.
0
1
2
3

8
Changing Needle
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward
you, then lower the presser foot.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with
the at side away from you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it
up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp screw
rmly with the screwdriver.
To check the needle
Place the at side of the needle on something at
(needle plate, glass etc.). The clearance between
the needle and at surface should be consistent.
Never use a bent or blunt needle.
Thread and Needle Chart
Fabric Thread Needle
Fine
Lawn
Georgette
Tricot
Organza
Crepe
Silk #80-100
Cotton #80-100
Synthetic #80-100
#9/65-11/75
Blue tip needle
Medium
Sheeting
Jersey
Broadcloth
Fleece
Silk #50
Cotton #50-80
Synthetic #50-80
#11/ 75 -14 /9 0
Heavy
weight
Denim
Tweed
Coating
Quilting
Silk #30-50
Cotton #40-50
Synthetic #40-50
#14/90-16/100
• For general sewing, use needle size 11/75
or 14/90.
• A ne thread and needle should be used
for sewing lightweight fabrics, so the fabric
will not be marred.
• Heavy fabrics require a needle large
enough to pierce the fabric without fraying
the needle thread.
• Always test the needle size on a small
scrap of the fabric that will be used for
actual sewing.
• In general, use the same thread for the
needle and bobbin.
• When sewing stretch fabrics, very ne
fabrics and synthetics, use a blue tip
needle. The blue tip needle effectively
prevents skipped stitches.
NOTE:
1 x blue tip needles (#11/75), 2 x #11/75 needles and 2
x #14/90 needles are included in the needle case (Part
No. 540401026).

9
Removing or Inserting the Bobbin Case
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward
you.
Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.
wLatch
When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn
into the recess of the hook race.
eHorn
Open the hook cover.
qHook cover
w
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e
Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spool of
thread in order to feed thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for
storage.
q Spool
w Hole
e Tangle
* Set the spool pins at the highest or lowest
position only.
Otherwise, it may cause malfunction of the
spool pins.
NOTE:
When using thread which has tendency to
tangle around spool pin, thread through the
hole of spool pin as shown.
The hole should face the thread spool.
qw
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10
Winding the Bobbin
zDraw the thread from the spool.
Guide the thread around the bobbin winder
thread guide.
xInsert the thread through the hole in the
bobbin from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.
cPush it to the right.
vWith the free end of the thread held in your
hand, depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when it has made a few
turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in
the bobbin.
bDepress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the
machine.
Return the bobbin winder spindle to its
original position by moving the spindle to the
left, and cut the thread.
NOTE:
Return the bobbin winder spindle when the
machine stops.
Threading Bobbin Case
zPlace the bobbin into the bobbin case.
Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction
of arrow.
xPull the thread into the bobbin case slot.
cDraw the thread under the tension spring and
into the delivery eye.
* Leave about 10 cm (4˝) of free thread.
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11
Needle Threader
zRaise the needle to its highest position.
Press down the needle threader knob as far as
it will go.
The hook comes out through the needle eye
from behind.
xPull the thread down around the thread guide
then pass it from the left and under the hook.
cRelease the knob slowly while holding the
thread end with your hand.
A loop of the thread is pulled up through the
needle eye.
vRemove the loop from the threader and pull
out the thread end from the needle eye.
NOTE:
The needle threader can be used with a #11/75
to #16/100 needle or Janome Blue Tipped
needle.
Thread size 50 to 100 would work well.
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Threading the Machine
Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by
turning the handwheel toward you.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with
thread coming from back of the spool.
zDraw the thread into thread guide using both
hands.
xWhile holding the thread near spool, draw
thread down into the tension area and then
around the check spring holder.
cFirmly draw the thread up and through the
take–up lever from right to left.
vThen draw the thread down along the left
channel.
b Slide the thread into needle bar thread guide
on the left.
nThread the needle eye from front to back.
NOTE:
You may want to cut the thread end with sharp
scissors for easier needle threading.
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zCorrect tension
The thread tension is adjusted depending
on the sewing materials, layers of fabric and
sewing method.
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread
does not show on the right side (top side) of
the fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly
on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.
q Needle thread (Top thread)
w Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
e Right side (Top side) of fabric
r Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
t Thread tension dial
y Setting mark
xNeedle thread tension is too tight
When the bobbin thread (bottom thread
appears on the right side (top side) of the
fabric, loosen the needle thread tension by
moving the dial to a lower number.
cNeedle thread tension is too loose
When the needle thread (top thread) appears
on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric,
tighten the needle thread tension by moving
the dial to a higher number.
Thread Tension Dial
z
x
c
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread
zRaise the presser foot and hold the needle
thread lightly with your left hand.
xTurn the handwheel slowly toward you with
your right hand until the needle goes down and
continue turning the handwheel until the take-
up lever is at its highest position.
Lightly draw up the needle thread forming a
loop of the bobbin thread.
c Pull 10 cm (6˝) of both threads back and under
the presser foot.

13
qStitch Selector Dial
Turn the stitch selector dial to set the setting mark
with the symbol corresponding to the desired
pattern.
q
Setting mark
CAUTION
To avoid needle or fabric damage, make sure
the needle is up and out of the fabric while
selecting a stitch.
Turn the stitch length dial to set the setting mark
with the desired stitch length.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch
length.
q
Setting mark
• Adjust the dial in the 0.5-4 range when you sew
the zigzag stitch.
• Set the dial at “S.S.” to sew the stretch stitch
pattern sewing.
• If the stretch stitch pattern is uneven, turn
the stitch length dial in the direction of “–” to
compress it, or “+” to expand it.
Stitch Length Dial
S.S.
q
+–

14
Reverse Stitch Button
As long as you keep the reverse stitch button
depressed, the machine will sew in reverse.
Dropping or Raising the Feed Dog
The drop feed lever is located underneath the
free arm bed on the front of the machine.
zTo drop the feed dog, push the lever in the
direction of the arrow q.
xTo raise the feed dog, push the lever in the
direction of the arrow w, as illustrated, and
turn the handwheel etoward you.
The feed dog must be up for normal sewing.
q
Stitch Width Dial
Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitch
width at the setting mark .
The higher the number, the wider the stitch width
q Setting mark
NOTE:
Raise the needle above the fabric, when you
turn the stitch width dial.
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qPattern selector: A/B
wPresser foot: Zigzag foot
eThread tension: 2–6
r Stitch length: 1.5–4
t Stitch width: (0) or (5)
BASIC SEWING
Straight Stitch Sewing
zRaise the presser foot and position the fabric
with its edge lining up with a seam guide line
on the needle plate.
Lower the needle into the fabric.
Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads
toward the back.
Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along the guide line
letting the fabric feed by itself.
xFor fastening the end of seams, press the
reverse stitch lever and sew several reverse
stitches.
Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric,
drawing the threads to the back.
cCut the threads with the thread cutter.
The threads are now the proper length to begin
sewing the next seam.
To Change Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward
you to bring the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change
sewing direction as desired.
Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
r t

16
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qCenter needle position
w Guide lines
eNumbers
Seam Guide Lines
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the
distance between the center needle position and
the guideline.
The numbers in front are centimeters.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.
Turning a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8” (1.6 cm) from the
fabric edge.
Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning
the handwheel counterclockwise.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line
the edge with the 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the
new direction.
Line up the fabric edge facing you with the
cornering guide shown.
qCornering guide
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Numbers 10 15 20 3/8 4/8 5/8 6/8
Distance (cm) 11.5 2 — — — —
Distance
(inch) ———3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4
Variable Needle Position
When the straight stitch (pattern A) is selected,
you can move the needle between center and
left needle position by turning the stitch width
dial.

17
qPattern selector: C
wPresser foot: Zigzag foot
eThread tension: 2–5
r Stitch length: 0.5–4
t Stitch width: 5
Zigzag Stitching
Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for
overcasting, sewing on buttons, etc.
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18
qPattern selector: D
wPresser foot: Zigzag foot
eThread tension: 1–4
r Stitch length: 0.5–4
t Stitch width: 5
This stitch is used to nish the raw edge on
synthetics and other fabrics that tend to pucker.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
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Knit Stitch
qPattern selector: F
wPresser foot: Zigzag foot
eThread tension: 1–4
r Stitch length: S.S.
t Stitch width: 5
This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and
stretch velour because it provides the greatest
amount of elasticity and strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8˝) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
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UTILITY STITCHING
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Tricot Stitching