Singer 645 User manual

MODEL
645
a

You
are
now
the
owner
of
a new
zigzag
sewing
machine,
the most
versatile
type
of
its
kind
you
can
possess.
Buttonholes,
monogramming,
stretch
stitching,
overcasting
and
creative
embroidery
are
done
with
ease
and
speed.
To
aid
you
in
obtaining
the
greatest
performance
from
your
new
WHITE,this
book
on
its
care
and
use
has
been
written
for
you.
Read
the
instructions
carefully,
as
a
thorough
understanding
of
your
machine
will
reward you
with
many hours
of
trouble
free.
creative
sewing.
Time-saving
attachments
such
as
rufflers,
binders,
edgestitchers,
hemmers
and
others
to
complement
-
-
the
accessories
furnished
with
your
WHITE
are
available
from
the
store
where you
purchased
your
machine.
WHITE
SEWING
MACHINE COMPANY
Cleveland,
Ohio
44111
WHITE
CONSOLIDATED
INDUSTRIES,
LTD.
Scarborough,
Ontario,
Canada

CONTENTS
PAGE
SECTION;IPRE1JMINARY
INFORMATION
____
____
Parts
Indentitication
Principle
Parts
4
Accessories
6
Installing
Machine
Head
onto
portable
case
or
cabinet
and
Connecting
Machine
7
selection
ot Needles and
I hreads
8
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching
Guide
9
Changing Needle
10
Changing Needle
Plate
10
Selection
of Presser
Foot
ii
Winding
Bobbin
12
Upper Threading
13
Threading
Bobbin
Case
14
Placing
Bobbin
Case
in
Shuttle
14
SECTION
III...GETflNG
TO
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
- -:
Selection
of
Stitch
Stitch
Length
Control
15
Push
Reverse
Button
15
Stitch
Width
Control
16
Relating
Stitch
Length
to
Stitch
Width
16
Stretch
Stitch
Lever
17
Stitch
Pattern Selector
17
Buttonhole
Reverse
Stitch
Tuner
18
Controls
Adjusting Thread
Tensions
18
Adjusting
Pressure
on Fabric
and
Feed
Dog
Height 19
Sewing Light
20
Preparing to
Sew
21
Guiding Fabric
21
Turning
Corners
21
Curveçl
Seams
22
Sewing
Across
Heavy
Seams
22
Removing
the
Work
22
SEC11ON.V STITcHINGS
-.:
-
:
Straight
Stitch
Seams
23
Basting/Topstitching
23
Darning 23
Cording/Sewing
on
Zipper
24
Quilting
24
Zigzag
Stitch
Overcasting
25
2

PAGE
Sewing Knits
25
Sewing on
Buttons
25
With
a
Thread Shank
26
Satin
Stitching
26
Built-in Utility Stitches
27
Twin Needle
Sewing
27
Freehand
Monogramming
28
Applique/Patching
28
Gathering
Over
a
Cord
29
Lace
Application
29
Flutter Hem
29
Sewing
Tips
30
Shaping
Dart
in
Interfacings
30
Multiple Zigzag Stitch
30
Buttonholes
Preparation
31
Built-In Buttonhole
32
Corded
Buttonhole
33
Blind Hem
Stitch
34
Straight
Stretch
Stitch
35
Topstitching
35
Ultra-Stretch Stitch
Rick-Rack
Stretch
35
Pine-Leaf
Stretch
Special
Ultra-Stretches
35
Elastic
Application
36
Overlock
Application
37
SECTION
VI
CARE
AND
MAINTENANCE
OF
YOUR
MACHINE
-
Oiling
Machine
38
Cleaning
and Oiling
Shuttle
Area
39
Adjusting
Bobbin
Winder
40
Adjusting
and
Changing Motor
Belt
40
Problem
and
Remedies
41
1
iiei’.
i
r
w•t’I’lI
i..
.
Attachment Foot
43
Edgestitcher
43
Binder 44
Folded
Binding
44
Two-Tone
Binding
44
Hand-Cut
Bias
Binding
44
The
Set
of
Hemmers
45
Ruffler
46
Narrow
Hemmer
47
Lace Trimmed
Hems
48
Lace
Edge
with
Invisible
Stitching
48
French
Seam
48
Hemming
Across
A
Seam 48

-n
0
2 -1
m
mm
-02,
x1-n
H—
H 0 2
3.
I
I-
oz
C,
U
()

U
1.Take-up
2.
Pressure
Control
3.
Top
Thread
Guides
4.
Stitch
Pattern Selector
5. Stretch
Stitch
Control
6. Stretch
Stitch Pattern
Marking
7.
Stitch
Width
Control
8.
Bobbin
Winder
9. Hand
Wheel
10.
Stitch
Length
Control
11.
Reverse
Push
Button
12.
Feed
Dog
Height
Control
13.
Needle Plate
14.
Presser
Foot
15. Feed
Dog
16.
Slide
Plate
17.
Thumb
Screw
18.
Check
Spring
19.
Light
Switch
20.
Face
Plate
21.
Tension
Dial
22.
Needle
Clamp
23. Spool
Pins
24.
Buttonhole
Reverse
Stitch
Tuner
25.
Bobbin
Winder
Tension
Disc
26. Presser
Foot
Lever
27.
Thread
Cutter
28.
Head
Hinge
Holes
29.
Clutch-nut
Allways
at
its
highest
position
when
beginning
or
end
ing
sewing.
For
regulating the
pressure
on
fabric.
For
leading
thread
to
Tension
Control for
sewing.
For
selecting
the
stitch
pattern
and
buttonholing
steps.
For
changing
ordinary
stitch
to triple back-and
forth
stitch
(stretch
stitch>.
Cross
reference
by
color
between
ordinary
stitch
patterns
and
stretch
stitch
patterns
performed
with
stretch
stitch
control
at “STRETCH
STITCH”.
For
setting
stitch
width.
For
winding
thread
on
bobbin.
For
the
control
of
the
up
and
.down
movement
of
the
;needle.
-
For
selecting
stitch
length
between
no
feeding
and
max
to
about
6
stitches
per
inch
For
easy
back-tacking
to
lock
thread
ends
by pushing
the
button.
For
regulating
feed
dog
height
for
various
materials
and
types
of
sewing.
With
guide
lines
for
sewing
accuracy.
-
For
holding
fabric
when
sewing.
Diamond
point to
move
fabric accurately.
For
opening
an access
to
bobbin
and
bobbin
case.
For
tightening
presser
foot
in
place
on
presser bar.
-
For
automatic
precise
adjustment
of
flow
of
upper
thread.
For
turning
on
or off
the light
inside
face
cover.
Hinge-open
type
for
replacement
of
light
bulb
and
oiling.
For regulating
the
amount of tension
on
upper
thread.
For
holding
needle
in
place
in
the
slot
of
needle
bar.
For holding
spools,
preventing
over-spin
of
spools.
For
adjustment
for
the
buttonhole
reverse
stitch
density.
For
providing
proper tension
on
thread
when
bobbin
winding.
For
lifting
or
lowering
presser
bar
and
presser
foot.
For
convenience
to
cut
both
upper
and
lower
threads
after
sewing.
For
installation
of
machine
head
onto
portable
case
or
cabinet.
For
the
releasing
movement
of the
needle
bar
in
order
to wind
bobbin.
5

ACCESSOR
I ES
Your
new
White
sewing
machine
comes
equipped
with
the
following
set
of
accessories
to make
your
sewing
easier.
A
PACK
OF
NEEDLES
For
spares
Regular
assortment
of
sizes
#11.
#14
and
#16
regular needles
and
- -
ball
point
SPOOL
CUSHIONS
Place
two
te)t
pooI
Cushions
on
spool
pins
to
reduce
sound
of
spool
spin
ring
and
result
best
stitching.
SCREW
DRIVERS
Small
one
for
use
on
bobbin
thread
ten
sion
adjustment.
Large
one
for
uSe
on
thumb
screw, needle
clamp,
etc.
OILER
STRAIGHT
STITCH
FOOT&
NEEDLE
PLATE
For
straight
stitch
ing
on
very
sheer
soft
or
very
light
weight
stretchy
ma
terials
where
extra
control
is
needed.
BUTTON FOOT
For
holding
buttons
in
place
for
stitch
ing.
BUTTONHOLE
FOOT
Use
for
buttonhol
ing. Do
not
use
when
nprmal
sew
irig.
METAL
BOBBINS
For yàur
spare
bob-
bins
wound
with
-
various color
threads
Containing
machine
oil,
use
as
oiler.
QUILTING
GUIDE
Helps
make
parallel
rows
of
stitching.
CORDING
AND ZIPPER
FOOT
For
stitching
very
close
to the
edge
of
a
cord
or
zipper.
TWIN
NEEDLE
For
twin
parallel
sewing.
CLOTH
GUIDE
WITH
SCREW
-
Aid
in
creating
straight
seams.
6

INSTALLING
MACHINE
HEAD
ONTO
PORTABLE
CASE
OR
CABINET-AND
CONNECTING
MACHINE
__zl7*.
(_Q_
Loosen
both
head
hinge
set
screws
on
the
back
of
machineed
plate
until
head
hinge
holes
are
clear.
Tilt head
hinge
pins
up
and
back
as
far
as
they
will
go.
Carefully
slip
machine
head
onto
hinges
—
making sure
the
head
hinge
pins
are
inserted
as
far
as
they
can
go
into
head
hinge holes.
Allow
machine
head
to
rest
in
its
tilted
back
position.
Tighten
both
set
screws
securely
with
screwdriver.
Plug
electrical
leads
from
machine
head
into
sockets located
inside
cabinet
or
portable
case.
Cord
identified
with
‘motor”
tag
must
be
plugged
into
socket
marked
“motor”.
Untagged
cord
goes
to•
“light”
socket.
Insert
plug
into
a
wall
outlet
of
110—115
Volts.
7

— I I
SELECTION OF
NEEDLES
AND
THREADS
The needle and
thread
you
choose depends
upon the
fabric you
are stitching. The
correct
selection
of
needle
and
thread is very important
to
avoid
damaging the
fabrics of light
weight,
or tightly
woven fabrics,
and to prevent
skip
ped stitches
when
sewing on
very
sheer
or
stretchy
fabrics or needle
breakage
when stitch
ing heavy
or stiff
fabrics.
For best results, sewing
machine needles
should
be
replaced when
they
become
even
slightly
dull or
bent
or at the com
pletion
of every
other
garment.
A regular needle is
suggested
for
use with
woven fabrics. Needles,
style
15 x
1, of the
range
in
size from
8 to
20
are used
on
this
machine.
The lower number indicates
the finer
needle. The most commonly
used
sizes are 11
and
14.
A ball point
needle is
recommended
for
use
with
tricots,
jerseys, lingeries and
power
nets.
Unlike sharp
pointed
needles,
which
pierce
fibers
of
knit
fabrics destroying
elasticity,the
ball
point
needle
s 1 ips
between
fibers
without
damage
to
fabric
and
skipped
stitches.
A
wedge point needle
is
recommended
for
use
with leather
and
leather-look vinyls.
A
wedge
cutting
point pierces leather
more easily
than
ordinary
sewing
machine
needles,
resulting
in
more
satisfactory stitching.
Although it
is
recommended
to
use
a
ball point
needle for
knit fabrics,
when
sewing
on very
stretchy
fabrics
of knits,the
placement
of
a
thin
paper
below
the fabric and
the use
of
a finer
needle
are
suggested
to prevent
skip
stitches.
Always
use
the
same
type
and
size of
thread
in
both
needle and
bobbin.
Use
good
quality thread
without knots
for
best
stitches.
BALL
POINT
NEEDLE
WEDGE
POINT
NEEDLE
8

NEEDLE
—
THREAD—
FABRIC
— STITCHiNG GUIDE
Fabric
-
Extremely
heavy
tarpaulin,
sacking,
canvas,
duck,
etc.
Heavy
upholstery
fabric,
ticking,
denim,
leatherette.
Medium
heavy
drapery
fabric, velveteen,
jiting,
felt,
terry,
etc.
Medium
broadcloth,
percale,
gingham,
linen,
chintz,
taffeta,
sheer
wool,
shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity,
crepe,
handkerchief
linen,
Plastic
film,
etc.
Very
sheer
chiffon,
batiste,
lace,
organdy,
nylon
net, marquisette,
etc.
18
18
16
14
11
Machine
Stitching
‘Per
inch
6
to
8
8
to
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16
(plastic
film)
8tolO
9
to
20
Heavy
Duty
Heavy
Duty
Heavy
Duty
50
50
60
SynThetic:
0
0
0
9