Singer 645 User manual

MODEL
645
a

You
are
now
the
owner
of
a new
zigzag
sewing
machine,
the most
versatile
type
of
its
kind
you
can
possess.
Buttonholes,
monogramming,
stretch
stitching,
overcasting
and
creative
embroidery
are
done
with
ease
and
speed.
To
aid
you
in
obtaining
the
greatest
performance
from
your
new
WHITE,this
book
on
its
care
and
use
has
been
written
for
you.
Read
the
instructions
carefully,
as
a
thorough
understanding
of
your
machine
will
reward you
with
many hours
of
trouble
free.
creative
sewing.
Time-saving
attachments
such
as
rufflers,
binders,
edgestitchers,
hemmers
and
others
to
complement
-
-
the
accessories
furnished
with
your
WHITE
are
available
from
the
store
where you
purchased
your
machine.
WHITE
SEWING
MACHINE COMPANY
Cleveland,
Ohio
44111
WHITE
CONSOLIDATED
INDUSTRIES,
LTD.
Scarborough,
Ontario,
Canada

CONTENTS
PAGE
SECTION;IPRE1JMINARY
INFORMATION
____
____
Parts
Indentitication
Principle
Parts
4
Accessories
6
Installing
Machine
Head
onto
portable
case
or
cabinet
and
Connecting
Machine
7
selection
ot Needles and
I hreads
8
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching
Guide
9
Changing Needle
10
Changing Needle
Plate
10
Selection
of Presser
Foot
ii
Winding
Bobbin
12
Upper Threading
13
Threading
Bobbin
Case
14
Placing
Bobbin
Case
in
Shuttle
14
SECTION
III...GETflNG
TO
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
- -:
Selection
of
Stitch
Stitch
Length
Control
15
Push
Reverse
Button
15
Stitch
Width
Control
16
Relating
Stitch
Length
to
Stitch
Width
16
Stretch
Stitch
Lever
17
Stitch
Pattern Selector
17
Buttonhole
Reverse
Stitch
Tuner
18
Controls
Adjusting Thread
Tensions
18
Adjusting
Pressure
on Fabric
and
Feed
Dog
Height 19
Sewing Light
20
Preparing to
Sew
21
Guiding Fabric
21
Turning
Corners
21
Curveçl
Seams
22
Sewing
Across
Heavy
Seams
22
Removing
the
Work
22
SEC11ON.V STITcHINGS
-.:
-
:
Straight
Stitch
Seams
23
Basting/Topstitching
23
Darning 23
Cording/Sewing
on
Zipper
24
Quilting
24
Zigzag
Stitch
Overcasting
25
2

PAGE
Sewing Knits
25
Sewing on
Buttons
25
With
a
Thread Shank
26
Satin
Stitching
26
Built-in Utility Stitches
27
Twin Needle
Sewing
27
Freehand
Monogramming
28
Applique/Patching
28
Gathering
Over
a
Cord
29
Lace
Application
29
Flutter Hem
29
Sewing
Tips
30
Shaping
Dart
in
Interfacings
30
Multiple Zigzag Stitch
30
Buttonholes
Preparation
31
Built-In Buttonhole
32
Corded
Buttonhole
33
Blind Hem
Stitch
34
Straight
Stretch
Stitch
35
Topstitching
35
Ultra-Stretch Stitch
Rick-Rack
Stretch
35
Pine-Leaf
Stretch
Special
Ultra-Stretches
35
Elastic
Application
36
Overlock
Application
37
SECTION
VI
CARE
AND
MAINTENANCE
OF
YOUR
MACHINE
-
Oiling
Machine
38
Cleaning
and Oiling
Shuttle
Area
39
Adjusting
Bobbin
Winder
40
Adjusting
and
Changing Motor
Belt
40
Problem
and
Remedies
41
1
iiei’.
i
r
w•t’I’lI
i..
.
Attachment Foot
43
Edgestitcher
43
Binder 44
Folded
Binding
44
Two-Tone
Binding
44
Hand-Cut
Bias
Binding
44
The
Set
of
Hemmers
45
Ruffler
46
Narrow
Hemmer
47
Lace Trimmed
Hems
48
Lace
Edge
with
Invisible
Stitching
48
French
Seam
48
Hemming
Across
A
Seam 48

-n
0
2 -1
m
mm
-02,
x1-n
H—
H 0 2
3.
I
I-
oz
C,
U
()

U
1.Take-up
2.
Pressure
Control
3.
Top
Thread
Guides
4.
Stitch
Pattern Selector
5. Stretch
Stitch
Control
6. Stretch
Stitch Pattern
Marking
7.
Stitch
Width
Control
8.
Bobbin
Winder
9. Hand
Wheel
10.
Stitch
Length
Control
11.
Reverse
Push
Button
12.
Feed
Dog
Height
Control
13.
Needle Plate
14.
Presser
Foot
15. Feed
Dog
16.
Slide
Plate
17.
Thumb
Screw
18.
Check
Spring
19.
Light
Switch
20.
Face
Plate
21.
Tension
Dial
22.
Needle
Clamp
23. Spool
Pins
24.
Buttonhole
Reverse
Stitch
Tuner
25.
Bobbin
Winder
Tension
Disc
26. Presser
Foot
Lever
27.
Thread
Cutter
28.
Head
Hinge
Holes
29.
Clutch-nut
Allways
at
its
highest
position
when
beginning
or
end
ing
sewing.
For
regulating the
pressure
on
fabric.
For
leading
thread
to
Tension
Control for
sewing.
For
selecting
the
stitch
pattern
and
buttonholing
steps.
For
changing
ordinary
stitch
to triple back-and
forth
stitch
(stretch
stitch>.
Cross
reference
by
color
between
ordinary
stitch
patterns
and
stretch
stitch
patterns
performed
with
stretch
stitch
control
at “STRETCH
STITCH”.
For
setting
stitch
width.
For
winding
thread
on
bobbin.
For
the
control
of
the
up
and
.down
movement
of
the
;needle.
-
For
selecting
stitch
length
between
no
feeding
and
max
to
about
6
stitches
per
inch
For
easy
back-tacking
to
lock
thread
ends
by pushing
the
button.
For
regulating
feed
dog
height
for
various
materials
and
types
of
sewing.
With
guide
lines
for
sewing
accuracy.
-
For
holding
fabric
when
sewing.
Diamond
point to
move
fabric accurately.
For
opening
an access
to
bobbin
and
bobbin
case.
For
tightening
presser
foot
in
place
on
presser bar.
-
For
automatic
precise
adjustment
of
flow
of
upper
thread.
For
turning
on
or off
the light
inside
face
cover.
Hinge-open
type
for
replacement
of
light
bulb
and
oiling.
For regulating
the
amount of tension
on
upper
thread.
For
holding
needle
in
place
in
the
slot
of
needle
bar.
For holding
spools,
preventing
over-spin
of
spools.
For
adjustment
for
the
buttonhole
reverse
stitch
density.
For
providing
proper tension
on
thread
when
bobbin
winding.
For
lifting
or
lowering
presser
bar
and
presser
foot.
For
convenience
to
cut
both
upper
and
lower
threads
after
sewing.
For
installation
of
machine
head
onto
portable
case
or
cabinet.
For
the
releasing
movement
of the
needle
bar
in
order
to wind
bobbin.
5

ACCESSOR
I ES
Your
new
White
sewing
machine
comes
equipped
with
the
following
set
of
accessories
to make
your
sewing
easier.
A
PACK
OF
NEEDLES
For
spares
Regular
assortment
of
sizes
#11.
#14
and
#16
regular needles
and
- -
ball
point
SPOOL
CUSHIONS
Place
two
te)t
pooI
Cushions
on
spool
pins
to
reduce
sound
of
spool
spin
ring
and
result
best
stitching.
SCREW
DRIVERS
Small
one
for
use
on
bobbin
thread
ten
sion
adjustment.
Large
one
for
uSe
on
thumb
screw, needle
clamp,
etc.
OILER
STRAIGHT
STITCH
FOOT&
NEEDLE
PLATE
For
straight
stitch
ing
on
very
sheer
soft
or
very
light
weight
stretchy
ma
terials
where
extra
control
is
needed.
BUTTON FOOT
For
holding
buttons
in
place
for
stitch
ing.
BUTTONHOLE
FOOT
Use
for
buttonhol
ing. Do
not
use
when
nprmal
sew
irig.
METAL
BOBBINS
For yàur
spare
bob-
bins
wound
with
-
various color
threads
Containing
machine
oil,
use
as
oiler.
QUILTING
GUIDE
Helps
make
parallel
rows
of
stitching.
CORDING
AND ZIPPER
FOOT
For
stitching
very
close
to the
edge
of
a
cord
or
zipper.
TWIN
NEEDLE
For
twin
parallel
sewing.
CLOTH
GUIDE
WITH
SCREW
-
Aid
in
creating
straight
seams.
6

INSTALLING
MACHINE
HEAD
ONTO
PORTABLE
CASE
OR
CABINET-AND
CONNECTING
MACHINE
__zl7*.
(_Q_
Loosen
both
head
hinge
set
screws
on
the
back
of
machineed
plate
until
head
hinge
holes
are
clear.
Tilt head
hinge
pins
up
and
back
as
far
as
they
will
go.
Carefully
slip
machine
head
onto
hinges
—
making sure
the
head
hinge
pins
are
inserted
as
far
as
they
can
go
into
head
hinge holes.
Allow
machine
head
to
rest
in
its
tilted
back
position.
Tighten
both
set
screws
securely
with
screwdriver.
Plug
electrical
leads
from
machine
head
into
sockets located
inside
cabinet
or
portable
case.
Cord
identified
with
‘motor”
tag
must
be
plugged
into
socket
marked
“motor”.
Untagged
cord
goes
to•
“light”
socket.
Insert
plug
into
a
wall
outlet
of
110—115
Volts.
7

— I I
SELECTION OF
NEEDLES
AND
THREADS
The needle and
thread
you
choose depends
upon the
fabric you
are stitching. The
correct
selection
of
needle
and
thread is very important
to
avoid
damaging the
fabrics of light
weight,
or tightly
woven fabrics,
and to prevent
skip
ped stitches
when
sewing on
very
sheer
or
stretchy
fabrics or needle
breakage
when stitch
ing heavy
or stiff
fabrics.
For best results, sewing
machine needles
should
be
replaced when
they
become
even
slightly
dull or
bent
or at the com
pletion
of every
other
garment.
A regular needle is
suggested
for
use with
woven fabrics. Needles,
style
15 x
1, of the
range
in
size from
8 to
20
are used
on
this
machine.
The lower number indicates
the finer
needle. The most commonly
used
sizes are 11
and
14.
A ball point
needle is
recommended
for
use
with
tricots,
jerseys, lingeries and
power
nets.
Unlike sharp
pointed
needles,
which
pierce
fibers
of
knit
fabrics destroying
elasticity,the
ball
point
needle
s 1 ips
between
fibers
without
damage
to
fabric
and
skipped
stitches.
A
wedge point needle
is
recommended
for
use
with leather
and
leather-look vinyls.
A
wedge
cutting
point pierces leather
more easily
than
ordinary
sewing
machine
needles,
resulting
in
more
satisfactory stitching.
Although it
is
recommended
to
use
a
ball point
needle for
knit fabrics,
when
sewing
on very
stretchy
fabrics
of knits,the
placement
of
a
thin
paper
below
the fabric and
the use
of
a finer
needle
are
suggested
to prevent
skip
stitches.
Always
use
the
same
type
and
size of
thread
in
both
needle and
bobbin.
Use
good
quality thread
without knots
for
best
stitches.
BALL
POINT
NEEDLE
WEDGE
POINT
NEEDLE
8

NEEDLE
—
THREAD—
FABRIC
— STITCHiNG GUIDE
Fabric
-
Extremely
heavy
tarpaulin,
sacking,
canvas,
duck,
etc.
Heavy
upholstery
fabric,
ticking,
denim,
leatherette.
Medium
heavy
drapery
fabric, velveteen,
jiting,
felt,
terry,
etc.
Medium
broadcloth,
percale,
gingham,
linen,
chintz,
taffeta,
sheer
wool,
shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity,
crepe,
handkerchief
linen,
Plastic
film,
etc.
Very
sheer
chiffon,
batiste,
lace,
organdy,
nylon
net, marquisette,
etc.
18
18
16
14
11
Machine
Stitching
‘Per
inch
6
to
8
8
to
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16
(plastic
film)
8tolO
9
to
20
Heavy
Duty
Heavy
Duty
Heavy
Duty
50
50
60
SynThetic:
0
0
0
9

CHANGING
NEEDLE
Always
change
the needle
after
every
other garment
especially
when
sewing
on
polyester
and
nylon
fabrics
which
dull
needles much
faster.
When
needles
are
dull
or
bent, they
damage
both
your
fabric
and the
machine.
A
general
rule
when
placing
sewing
machine
needles
is
that
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
placed.
to
the
back of
the
machine,
when
the
bobbin
is
put
in
from
the
front.
If the
needle
is
inserted
incorrectly,
the stitches
will
not form.
To
change
the
needle
1.
Raise
the
needle bar
to
its
highest
position
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
toward
you.
2.
Loosen
needle
clamp to
remove
the
needle.
3.
Place
needle (flat
side
to
the
back
and
long
groove,
to
thefront)in
the
needle
clamp
and
push
it
upward
as
far
as
it
will
go,
tighten
needle clamp.
4.
After
changing
the
needle, make
one
complete turn
of
the
hand
wheel
by
hand
to
be
sure
the
needle
is
clearing
the needle
plate.
CHANGING
NEEDLE
PLATE
Although
an
all-purpose,
utility
needle
plate
is
fixed
on your
machine,
for
straight
sewing
on
fine fabric
or
soft
or
very
stretchy
fabric,
you may
want
to
use
the
straight
stitch
needle
plate
together
with
the straight
stitch
foot,
both of
which
are
included
in
your
accessory
box.
To
change
the
needle
plate,
simply
slide
the
slide
plate
as
far
forward
as
possible..
Remove
the
two screws
holding
the
plate
in
place.
Lift
the needle
plate
and
replace.
The
needle
plate
is
removed
for cleaning
the lint which
may
pile
up
between
needle plate
and
feed
dogs.
STRAIGHT
STITCH
NEEDLE
PLATE
‘C
i:i
UTI
LITY
NEEDLE
PLATE
/
10

SELECTION
OF
PRESSER
FOOT
For
most
ordinary
sewing
the
original
all-purpose
foot
can
be
used.
However,
it
s
recommended
to
use
the
following
special
feet
in
your
accessory
box
whenever
you
want
a
better
stitching
result.
1;-
LOOSEN
Straight Stitch Foot
This
has
only
a
narrow hole
to
accom
modate
only
straight
stitching.
It
may
be
used
on
sheer
or
soft
fabrics for
more
control.
When using
this
foot,
the
Stitch
Width
should
be
“0”
to
avoid
hitting
the
foot
and
breaking
the
needle.
ButtonhoLe
Foot
This
foot
has
a
groove
underneath,
to
allow
the
narrow satin
stitch
or
button
hole
to
form
evenly. However,
if
skip-
stitch
occurs
on
sheer fabrics
with
this
foot,
it
may
be
necessary
to
use
thin
paper
underneath.
Cording
or
Zipper
Foot,
and
Button
Foot
Use
for
sewing very close
to the
edge
of
a
cord
or
zipperS
and
sewing
on
buttons
respectively.
CHANGING
FOOT
Use
the
large
screwdriver
to
loosen
thumb
screw.
Turn
the
screw
backward
until
the
foot
becomes
loose.
Then,
lift
up on
presser
foot
lever
until
it
is
in
its
highest
position
in
order
to remove
the
foot.
Replace
with
desired
foot
and
tighten
thumb
screw
securely.

WINDING
BOBBIN
Disengage
the hand
wheel
(1) from
the stitching mechanism by turning
the clutch nut
(2)
toward
you or
counter-clockwise.
Place
a
spool of thread
on one of
the spool
pins
and lead thread
through
the rear Top Thread
Guide
(3)
after
winding
around
Bobbin,
Winder Tension Disc.
Run
the
end
of thread through
a
hole in
the
bobbin
edge and
place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4)
fitting
the
notch on
bobbin over
small spring on
spindle.
Push
bobbin winder latch (4), and
hold the thread
erd
loosely then
start
machine
slowly, and bobbin
winder
latch will be released
to
stop
winding when bobbin is full.
Turn clutch nut away
from
you
until
sewing
mechanism is again
engaged so that needle
moves
when
you turn the
hand
wheel.
Break
off loose thread end used
to
start the winding
and
cut other
thread
end.
Then
remove
bobbin
from bobbin winder.
F
_
‘A
- _z_

1. Turn
the
hand wheel
toward
you to
raise
the take-up
lever
to
its highest
position.
2.
Place
a
spool of
thread on the
spool pin.
3. Lead
the thread
through
the
top
thread
guides.
4.
Down and
between
the tension
discs, from
right
to
left.
5.
Draw
the thread
up
through
the
check-spring
and
with
a
slight
tug
into the
hook.
6.
Up
and
through the
eye
of
take-
up
lever
from right
to
left.
7.
Lead
thread
down
through the
thread
guide at
the bottom
of
the
threading
slot,
then,
through
the
needle
bar
thread
guide
from
the
back.
8.
Thread
the needle
FROM
FRONT
TO BACK,
drawing
it
through
about
3 or 4 inches.
Hold
the
end
of the upper
thread
loosely
and
turn the
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
the
needle goes
all
the
way
down
and comes
back
up.
A
thread
loop
will form
over
the
upper
thread
which
then can
be
pulled
out straight.
Place both
thread
ends under presser
foot
and draw toward
the back
of
the
machine,
leaving
both
threds
three or
four inches
long.
In
case
of twin
needle sewing,
place
two
spools
of
thread,
matching or
contrasting
in
color,
one on
each spool
pin,
lead both
threads
through
top thread
guides,
bring
threads.down
and
pass
one
thread between
the
back
discs
and
the other
between
the
front
discs,
then
treat
both
thread
as one until
threading
each
thread
through
each
needle
eye
of
twin
needle.
UPPER
THREADING
r-—-
-.-
-----
.:
ZAO:
13
9

THREADING
BOBBIN
CASE
1.
Hold
bobbin
case
be
tweeri
thumb
and
fore
finger
of
left
hand,
so
that
the
slot
in
the
edge
of
the
bobbin
case
is
on
top.
Take
the
bobbin
between
thumb
and
f
ore-
finger
of
right
hand so
that
the
thread
on
top
leads
from
left
to
right
2.
Insert
bobbin into
bob
bin
case,
pull
the
thread
into
the slot
of
the
bobbin
case
and
draw
it
under
tension
spring
and
into
the
fork-shaped
opening
of
the
spring.
\i
U
TENSION SPRING
PLACING
BOBBIN CASE
IN
SHUTTLE
Raise
needle
bar
to
its
highest
position,
and
slide
plate
forward.
Hold the
bobbin
case
latch
(D)
between
the
thumb
and
forefinger
of
the
left
hand, with
at
least
three
inches
of
thread
running
from
the
top
of
the bobbin
case
to
the
right.
Insert
and
center the
bobbin
case
on
the
stud
of
the shuttle
body
(C).
Be
sure the
bobbin
case
finger
(E),
is
opposite the shuttle
race
notch
(A).
Press
the
bobbin
case
(B)
into
the
shuttle
as
far
as
possible
until
the
latch
catches
on
the
center
post
of
the
shuttle.
Then
release
the
bobbin
case
latch
(D).
Press the
bobbin
case
again
after
the
latch
has
been
released
to
make
sure
the bobbin
case
is
locked
securely
in
place. Close
the
slide
plate.
14

rGErflNG
ôiCNóii
SELECTION
OF
STITCH:
STITCH LENGTH
CONTROL
The
stitch
length
control
controls
the
forward
feeding
of
the
fabric
in
ordinary
sewing.
At
0,
the
fabric
does
not
feed
at all.
With
the
control
around
the
red
bar
mark
for
buttonhole,
the
shortest
stitch
is
available.
At
5 is
the longest
—
about
6
stitches
per inch
on
ordinary’fabrics
—
but
the control
may
be
set at
any
desired
spot
between
0 and
5
for
a
variety
of
length,
except
when
stretch
stitching
triple
backand
forth
stitching), the
control
should
be
always
at
5.
Turn
the
control
to
the
right
to
shorten
and
to the
left
to
lengthen the
stitch.
The
stitch
length
number
you
choose
is
indicated
by
the
pointer
above
the control.
The
stitch
length
in
stretch stitching
triple
back-and-
forth
stitching)
is
fixed
about
3/64
inch
of
trouble-free
stretch
stitch
length
on
most kinds
of
fabrics
with
stretch
stitch control
at
“STRETCH
STITCH” and
the
stitch
length
control
at
“5”.
When
you
wish
to sew
backward
to tie
the
threads
at
the
beginning
or end
of
a
seam
in
ordinary
sewing,
press
the
Reverse
Push
Button
as
far
as
it
will
go,
so
that
your
machine
sews
in reverse
at
approximately
the
same
stitch
length
as forward
stitch
length.
The
machine
will sew
backward
as long
as
the
button
is
held
in.
Cross
reference
table
between
numeral
on
the
control
and
number
of
actual
stitches
per
inch
Numeral
on
the
control
0
Number
of
stitches
per
inch
(approx.)
No
Feeding
30
25
15
8
6
llU
Ill
PUSH
REVERSE
BUTTON
1
23
4
5
15

STITCH
WIDTH
CONTROL
This
control
controls
the
side sewing
of
the
needle
for
various
width
of
stitches.
At
0,
the
straight
stitch
line
results
in
ordinary sewing.
Also,
the widest
special stitch
patterns as
per
those
shown
on
the
stitch
pattern selector
are
made
with
this
control at
5.
The
narrow
special
stitch
patterns
including buttonhole
are
made
with
this
control
at
the
less
number,
and
with
this control
at
0,
only
straight sewing
is
made regardless the
selection
of
stitch
patterns.
With the control
at
any
other
point
than
‘O”,
ordinary
straight
stitch varies
to
zigzag
stitches. At
1,
the
needle
takes
a narrow
swing
resulting
in
narrow
column
of
stitching
and, at 5,
the needle
takes
a
large swing
resulting
in a
wide
column
of
stitches.
In
case of
twin needle
sewing,
this
control
should
be
set
in
the
range
of
red
.
7
bar
or
less
than Number
3
otherwise
..
...
needle
hits needle
plate
RELATING
STITCH
LENGTH
TO
STITCH
WIDTH
When
the
stitch
width
control
is
set
at
one
particular
width
(such as
5),
the
stitch
length
control
will
now
control
how
close
those
stitches
come
together.
At
length 0,
the
fabric
does
not
move,
resulting
in
a
bar
of stitches
formed one
on
top
of the
other,
as
is
used
in button
sewing.
At
red
bar
mark
or
near
0,
the
feed
pulls
the
fabric through
slowly,
resulting in
a
dense
column
of stitches
called a
satin
stitch. At
length 5,
a
very
long
open
zigzag
results.
I
*.
[:1
Wo
1
2
L2)2
272’
.11,11.
1,11:1
vv
4
5
5
5
55
55
L
2)2)4’O:j’’i..2
3...4
.5
16

STRETCH
STITCH
LEVER
Selection
between
ordinary
stitching
and
triple auto
matic
backand4orth
stitching
called
stretch
stitch is
made by
the
stretch stitch
lever.
With
the
lever up at
“REGULAR STITCH”
position,
ordinary
sewing is
performed.With
the lever
down at “STRETCH
STITCH”
position,
your
machine
automatically
performs
the
stretch stitch
with
the repetition
of two
forward
and one
backward
stitch
combination.
A
reinforced
seam
of
stretch stitch that will stretch
considerably more than the fabric used is the most
wanted
feature in
a
sewing
machine
today.
Its uses are
almost
unlimited
and
the more
you use
your machine
the
more it
wilt
become apparent
to
you.
When stretch stitching, the
stitch length
control should
be
always set at
5.
STITCH
PATTERN
SELECTOR
In
addition to
ordinary straight
and zigzag stitches, three consecutive
buttonholing-
step stitches,
3
different
kinds
of
utility
forward stitches,
3 special
stretch
stitches
and straight
and
Rick-Rack
stretches
as
shown on the
Stretch Stitch
Patterns
Marking can be
selected
by
this selector.
This selector
can be turned
only
to the
right, except
for
it’s
buttonhole
step selection range where the selector can
be
turned
to both directions.
For
regular stitch patterns, set
the
pattern
selector
at the selected pattern position
and the stretch stitch
lever
at
“REGULAR STITCH”.
The regular stitch patterns
selected
by the
selector are
turned to the stretch stitch
patterns shown in same color
as those of regular stitch patterns on
the
selector
respectively, simply by setting
stretch stitch
lever
at “STRETCH STITCH”.
All regular stitches are
made by
forward
sewing at an
optional forward
stitch
length
selected by
stitch length
control.
All
stretch stitches
are made
at
the fixed stretch
stitch
length with the stitch length control
at 5 and
the stretch stitch lever
at
“STRETCH STITCH”.
To balance
the left
side of the buttonhole, first
step, with the
right
side
of the
buttonhole, third step,
‘ adjust the buttonhole reverse
stitch
tuner.
- With the selector
at buttonhole step
(2—4),
your machine does not feed fabric for
bartacking the buttonhole
ends and,
with
it at buttonhole
step
(3),
it feeds fabric in
-
reverse
to sew the right buttonhole
edge
with the preset
reverse satin stitch length
automatically, regardless
the
setting of
stitch length control.

BUTTONHOLE
REVERSE
STITCH
TUNER
CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING
THREAD
TENSIONS
Always adjust
the upper
thread
tension with
the
presser
foot
down,
as
the
tension is
released
when
it is
raised.
To
increase the
tension
on
the
upper
thread,
turn
tension
control
to
the,
right.
To
decrease,
turn
to
the left.
Before adjusting
the
tension
be
sure
that
the
machine
is
threaded
properly.
It
is
seldom
required
to
adjust
the
bobbin
thread
tension,
however, when necessary
to change
bobbin
thread tension, turn
small
screw
on
side
of
the bobbin
case
clockwise
to
tighten
, counterclock
wise
to
loosen.
When
both
tensions are
properly
balanced,
a
perfect
stitch
will
be
formed with
both
threads
interlock
ing
in
fabric
(A).
When
the
upper
tension
is too
tight,
the
bobbin thread
is
pulled
up
over
the upper thread
which
is
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(B).
When
the
upper tension is
too
loose,
the
upper thread
forms
loops
over
the
bobbin
thread lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(C).
When
the
upper and
bobbin thread
tensions are
balanced
but
fabric
is
puckered
in
sewing
direction
on
sheer fabrics,
both
tensions
are
too
tight.
Loosen
both
tensions evenly.
It
is
recommended
to
adjust the
tension balance
under
medium
stitch
length. In
case
of
satin
stitching
for
buttonholes
and
em
broidery
shghtly loosen the
upper
thread
tension.
izuLrLr
r
S
The
tuner
is
for
the
adjustment
of
preset
right
buttonhole
side-
reverse
stitch
density,
while
it may
be
seldom
required
as
far
as
the
left
buttonhole
forward
satin
stitch
in
buttonhole
step
(1
(is
properly
set
by
the
stitch
length
control.
The
adjustment
is
made
by
screwdriver,
setting
the
stitch
selector
at
buttonhole
step
(3).
Turning
tuner
to
the
right
(+),
the
preset
reverse
buttonhole
stitch
density
is
increased
and,
to
the
left)—).
it
becomes rough.
0
lC)
lB

ADJUSTING PRESSURE
ON FABRIC
AND
FEED
DOG
HEIGHT
.
GENERAL
SEWING
P
VVVVV.V•V___
•__V__
Usually
for
normal
sewing, except for
sewing
on
very
heavy and
bulky
fabrics and
very
stretchy
knit
fabrics, the
center
pin
(B)
of
the
pressure
control
be
at
its
lowest
position,
also,
the
feed
dog
height
control be
turned
to
the
right, “High”
position,
except
for
sewing
on
very
sheer
fabrics.
For
aboe
exceptional
fabrics,
refer
to
below
table.
To reduce
half
the
pressure,
press
the
outer ring
(A>
of
the
pressure
control, then
press the
center
pin
(B)
down
again
to
halfway.
To
reduce half
the
feed
dog
height,
turn
the
feed
dog
height
control to
“LOW” position.
Ordinary
fabric of
less
elasticity:
-
Heavy
and
bulky fabrics
Medium
weight fabrics
-
Light
weight
soft
fabrics
Very
stretchy
fabrics and knits:
Heavy
and
bulky
ones
V
Medium
weight
ones
V
-
Light
weight
and
sheer
ones
In
order
to
move
the
fabric freely
in
any
direction for
darning
and
mending,
release
the
center
pin
(B>
completely
by
pressing down on
the
outer ring
(A(.
Turn
the
feed
dog
height control
to
“DOWN”
position,
which
drops
the
feed
dog
well
below the
needle plate.
To
return
the
feed
dog
height
to
normal,
turn
the
control
to
“HIGH”
position.
-
‘9
fabric
Pressure
on
V
Feed
dog
V
fabric
V
height
V
Half
Full
Full
Full
Half
Half
High
High
Low
High
High
Low
.
MENDING AND
DRANING: