Jerith Aluminum Ornamental Fence User manual

Please read these
instructions thoroughly before attempting to install your Jerith fence. While installation of our fence is relatively
easy, this instruction sheet should eliminate any guess work. If you have any questions or problems installing the
fence, please call us weekdays at 1-800-344-2242 so that we may help you.
Academy Fence – Authorized Jerith Dealer
Aluminum Ornamental Fence
Installation Instructions
Materials Needed:
• Stakes • Post Hole Digger • Hacksaw
• String • Level • Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Measuring Tape • Concrete Mix • 1/4” Hex-Head Driver
• Rubber Mallet • Drill with 1/8” bit
Before You Begin Installing Your Fence:
• Establish your fence line by staking out the area to be enclosed and attaching a
guide string to the stakes. Make sure the fence is set back from the property
line as required by local codes.
• Separate and identify your posts. There are three types of posts: Line,
End/Gate, and Corner posts. The horizontal rails of the fence sections fit into
the holes punched in the posts. Line posts have holes punched on opposite
sides. Corner posts have adjacent sides punches End posts have holes on only
one side. (See Figure 1.) A Gate post is the same as an End post but the post
walls are twice as heavy to support the weight and latching of a gate.
• Drive the standard post caps onto the posts using a rubber mallet before setting
the posts in concrete. This will prevent the posts from being knocked out of
alignment after the concrete has been poured. Ball caps may be put on after the
fence is installed.
• Gates and sections should be installed so that the bottom of the fence is about
2” - 3” above ground level. This will allow the grass under the fence to be easily
trimmed.
• All screws in the fence sections and the posts should be installed on the same
side (normally the inside) of the enclosed area for a neater appearance when
you are done.
• When you need less than a full section to complete a line of fence, cut it to size
using a hacksaw. Notch the cut ends of the horizontal rails so they will fit inside
the post. Use a factory notch as a guide.
• Mix the concrete for the posts holes on the dry side to allow the posts to set
faster and to give additional support when installing the fence sections. Use the
chart on the right to determine the minimum post depth for your fence.
Caution: The concrete footings should extend below the frost line in
areas where freezing of the ground can cause the posts to “heave”. The
posts themselves do not have to go below the frost line for proper
installation.
Fence Height Post Depth
36”,42”,48”
60”
54”, 72”
84”
96”
18”
24”
30”
36”
42”
Fence Installation:
1. Install a pair of gate posts first. (If you don’t have any gates, then start with an end or corner post.) Dig the post
holes and set the posts into them. Fill the holes with concrete and tamp down around each post so the concrete

is about 2” below ground level. The gate will be attached after the concrete has set. The opening between the
posts should equal the size of the gate that was ordered. (i.e.: a 48” gate fits into a 48” wide opening.)
Caution: The proper operation of the gate depends upon the correct installation of the gate posts.
Make certain that they are plumb.
2. Repeat this procedure for all other gate posts that are not in the same straight line of fence. Gates that are in
the same line will be installed when the fence reaches their
location.
Fence Type Post Size
Post Spacing
- (on center)
Residential
Ovation
Regency
Industrial
2” sq.
2” sq.
2” sq.
2 ½” sq.
72 ½”
72”
95 5/8”
71 ½”
3. After the gate posts are set, the first line of fence is installed. Dig
up to 8 holes for the line posts along the fence line. If you reach an
end or corner of the fence line, then dig the post hole where it’s
needed. Use the chart on the right to determine the proper center
to center measurement of the holes based upon the type of Jerith
fence you are installing.
4. To install the fence, slide the horizontal rails of a section into the punched holes of the post installed in Step 1
as far as the notched end of the rail will allow. Place a line post into the next post hole, arid slide the line post
onto the horizontal rails of the section as far as possible. Pour concrete around the line post. Check that the
post is plumb and aligned with the guide string. Tamp it down to hold the post in position. Leave the concrete
about 2” below ground level.
Note: Corner posts require the horizontal rails of one section to be specially cut to
allow both sections to fit into the post. A ½” x ½” piece must he removed from the
end of the rails. (See Figure 2.)
Caution: Make sure that the posts are parallel to the pickets in the sections’
Otherwise; the installation will appear very sloppy.
5. When you have 6 - 8 sections installed, al the fence by sighting along the top
horizontal rails. When correctly aligned, the rails will appear to be one continuous
line. Also, the posts will appear to be one when viewed from the end of the fence
line, Continue in this manner until all fence sections are installed.
6. After the concrete has set, fasten the rails to the posts using the 1” self-drilling
screws.
Caution: Do not over tighten the 1” screws - you can break them! If you use a powered hex-head driver,
adjust the clutch to prevent the screws from marring the finish or denting the post.
7. Fill in the top of the post holes with dirt and grass so the fence will look like it’s been there for years. Your fence installation
is now complete!
Gate Installation:
Once the concrete has set around the gate posts, you may then install the gates. Proper installation will result in
approximately a /2” space between the gate and each of the gate posts.
1. Before fastening the hinges, decide how the gate will be mounted and how it will open. If the gate will be
hinged on the left and open towards you, mount the hinges so that the hinge springs are on top. The springs
must also be on top if the gate will be hinged right and open away from you. If you want the gate to open the
other way, then the hinge springs must be on the bottom. (See Figures 3a and 3b.)
2. Attach the hinges to the gate using four of the #6 x ½” painted screws provided. Drill 1/8” pilot holes for these
screws. Next, fasten each hinge to the gate post using six more screws. Mount one hinge near the top rail of the
gate and the other near the bottom rail to distribute the weight of the gate evenly. Make sure the hinges line up
with each other to prevent them from binding. The gate should now swing freely.
Caution: If the hinges are not in line with each other, the gate will not close by itself!
Note: If you are hanging a gate on a flat surface, such as a column, then remove the tension screw in the hinge
and flatten the two large plates flush against your mounting surface. Use the proper lag bolts through the plates

(not provided) and into the wall. It may be necessary to enlarge the holes in the plates larger to accept these
bolts. You will replace the tension screw in Step 6
3. Next, assemble the latch. This can be confusing since the latch works for all gate swings - in or out, left or right.
Precede step by step, using Figure 4 on the next page as a guide.
a.) Place the spindle into a handle as far as it will go and attach it using the set screw.
b.) Slide a nylon bushing onto the spindle with the flat side against the handle.
c.) Place the spacer block into the front plate. The loop will extend out the bottom, while the top of the
spacer block will fit into the square notch on the top of the front plate.
d.) Put the spindle through the large holes in the front plate and the spacer block. The Jerith logo should
face out. The bushing fits into the large hole in the front plate.
e.) Point the lever in the opposite direction of the handle and put the lever’s square hole onto the spindle.
Push the lever in completely, so that the bottom tip extends below the front plate.
f.) Take the spring and push it through the small opening between the top of the spacer block and the top
of the lever, with the ends of the spring facing out. Be sure to position the spring beyond the stop on the
top of the lever.
g.) Push the two 1 3/4” machine screws all the way through the front plates. Put the entire assembly on
the side of the gate.
h.) Place the back plate on the other side of the gate and tighten the 1 3/4” screws to attach the back to
the front. The spindle goes through the hole in the back plate.
i.) Slide the other bushing onto the spindle with the flat end facing out so it fits snugly into the large hole in
the back plate. Push the other handle onto the spindle and tighten the set screw.
4. Position the latch at a convenient height (or as required by local codes), drill 1/8” pilot holes, and use the four
#6 x ½” painted screws to fasten the latch squarely in place on the side of the gate.

5. Close the gate against the latch post (or the other gate if a drive)
and locate the keeper so that the lever rests ½”.” above the bottom
of the keeper. Push a latch down to ensure that the lever will clear
the keeper. Attach the keeper using the two flat head screws
provided.
6. With the hinges and latch now mounted, you may have to adjust the
spring tension in the hinges to allow the gate to allows most gates to work properly. To change the tension,
remove the tension screw from the hinge and use a wrench to turn one of the nuts on the hinge rod ‘A of a turn.
(See Figures 3a & 3b for the correct direction to turn the nut.) Replace the tension screw into the other pre-drilled
hole in the center of the hinge rod. Repeat this procedure for the other hinge on the gate. Adjust the tension until
the gate closes and latches correctly.
Note: When latching the gate against a column or wall, use the
small piece of 1” x 1” channel included to mount the keeper on
the inside of the opening. Attach the keeper onto the side of the
channel and fasten the entire assembly against the wall using lag
bolts. You may need to cut the end of the lever to allow the gate
to close and latch properly. (See Figure 5.)
Note: If the gate will be used with an operator or as part of a double drive gate, then remove the tension screw
from the hinge, release the tension, and replace the screw. The tension screw must be attached to the hinge rod,
even if there is no tension needed on the hinge.
Caution: There must be equal tension on both hinge springs for proper operation of the gate.
7. For double drive gates, the drop rods are installed last. Fasten a “guide” to the face of one gate frame near the
center of the double gate. Place the other guide about halfway up the side of the gate. Insert the drop rod through
these two guides and adjust them for smooth operation. Finally, mount the small “hook” to hold the rod in the “up”
position. Make sure the drop rod clears the ground when the gate opens. Repeat this procedure for the other gate
if desired.
8. Enjoy your Jerith gate!