Kenmore 117.552 User manual

1 0-4
%j4.4Z
OWNt

Cet’tijficate
cjf
iatan
tee
We
guarantee
to
the
original purchaser
the sew
ing head
of
this machine
when
used
for
normal
family
use
to
be
free
from
defects in
material
and
workmanship
for
a
period
of
twenty years
from
date
of
purchase.
In the
event
that working
parts
prove
to be
defective
in
material
or
work
manship,
they
will be
replaced
free
of
charge
if
the machine
is
returned
to
the
nearest Sears
or
Simpsons-Sears
retail
or
mail
order
store.
In
returning
to
a
mail
order
store,
be
sure and pack
securely.
(Needles,
belts,
bobbins,
shuttles,
bulbs,
or
parts
which
wear out
from
natural
use
are ex
cluded
from
the
guarantee.)
We
further
guarantee
all
electrical
equipment
to
be
free
from
defects
for
a
period
of
one year
from
date of
purchase.
When
referring to
this
guarantee
or
when
writ
ing us
about
your
machine,
always mention
the
model
number.
We
do
not authorize
any person or
representative
to
make
any other
guarantee
or
to
assume
for
us
any liability in connection
with
the
sale of
this
sewing machine other
than
those
contained
here
in.
Any
agreements
outside
or contradictory
to
the foregoing shall
be void and of
no effect.
For
ready
reference
record the number
of
your
machine on
this
page.
Model
No.
Cabinet
Model
No.
Read
Serial
No.
Date
Delivered
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO.
ond
SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED
The
Object
of
This
Book
—
is
In
provide
you
with
complete
directions
for
operating
this
sewing machine.
We
are
extremely
anxious
that your
investment
in
this
machine
re
turns
the utmost
in
satisfactory
service.
Therefore
you
are
urged
to
read
this
book
carefully
and
thor
oughly
iii
order
to
familiarize yourself
with
the
operation
of
this sewing
machine,
even
though
you
tony
be
accustomed
to
using
some
other
make.
To Install Sewing
Machine
Head
On Cabinet
luee
the
head
on
top
of
open
cabinet
and
slide
head
hinge
lug
holes
(Fig.
2)
over
round
shanks
of
the
two
hinges
attached
to
back
of
cut-out
in
top
of
cabinet.
Tip
head
back
and tighten
head
hinge
set
screws
(Fig.
2)
securely.
Pull
bushing
up
on
motor
cord
as
near
to
the
motor
as
possible
and slip
motor
cord
into slot
at
edge of
bed
plate and
push
bushing
back
into
hole
in
bed
plate
(see
Fig.
9).
Unwind
the extension
cord
inside
the
cabinet,
plug
into
any
base plug
outlet,
and the
machine
is
ready
for
operation.
If
machine
is
treadle operated,
merely place
leather
belt
around
hand
wheel
drive
pulley as
of
course
there
is
no
motor
or
electrical
connections.
IMPORTANT
GIVE PARTICULAR
ATTENTION
TO IMPOR
TANT
INFORMATION
ON
PAGES
11 AND 12.
e
a

Oiling
A
sewing
machine, like
every
other
piece
of
machinery
needs
oiling
to
insure
easy
running
and
to
prevent
unneee
sary
wear
of
the
parts
which
bear
upon
each
other.
Oil
holes
are
provided
in the
arm
of
the
machine
for
Parts
which
cannot
be
directly
reached.
Depending
on
how
frequently
the machine
is
used
deter.
mines
the
oiling
requirements.
Moderate use
require 5
only
a
occasional
drop
of
oil
at
the points
indicated
on
the
ilins.
trations
shown.
‘
oil
the
works
underneath
the
bedplate,
turn
the
I
back
and
apply
oil
to
points
as
shown in
Figure
2.
On
automatiC
li-ft
machines
the
thumb
screw
on
the
plate
near
the
base
of
the
arm
must
be
taken
out
before
bead
c&fl
be
turned
back.
Cleaning
Machine
IF
THE
MACHINE
RUNS
HARD
it
is due
to
lack
proper
oiling
of
some
bearings.
Should
the machine
beco
gummed
from
long
standing
or
poor
oil,
apply
kerosene to
the
bearings
to
remove
the
gum;
then
run
the
machine
ri
idly
wipe
clean
and
OIL
THOROUGHLY
WITH
GO
SE*ING
MACHINE OIL
before
beginning
to
sew.
Occasionally
place
one
drop
of
oil
on
tip
of
finger
i
apply
around
outer
rim
of
shuttle,
race,
and
center
(C.P.)
fig.
6.
Be
sure
to
use
ONLY
Kenmore
Sewing
Machine
r
OILL
OIL
OIL
1
Figure
2
hAND
HOLE
COVER
PLATE
Figure
1
Two
Three

Threading
The Machine,
Upper Thread
(See
Fig.
3)
Your
machine
ShoUld
be
i
proper
POS1tjOfl
for
threading
by
turning
the
hand
wh
(the
top
Of
the
wheel
tu
from
you)
so
that
the
take
up
(5,
Fig.
3)
is
at
its
est
point.
Place
a
spool
of
thre
the
spool
pin
on
top
of
the
arm.
Hold
the
ena
of
the
thread
in
the
left
hand
be..
tween
the
first
finger
and
thumb,
then
use the
right
hand
(first
finger
and
thumb)
to
act
as
a
tension
on
the
thread,
Next, the
thread
should
pass
under
and
in
front
of
oak
one
(1),
then
under
and
in
back
of
hook
two
(2).
Next,
downward
and
hook
under
point
No.
3
from
front
to back.
Next,
pull
the
thread
up
ward
until
it
hooks
into
spring
eyelet
No.
4.
Next,
Continue
upward
i
to
the
hole
in
the
takeup
lever
(5)
from
back
to
front.
Next,
downward
and
hook
thread
into
needle
clamp
thread
guide
6
from
back
to
front.
Next,
into
the
eye
of
needle
from
left
to
right
as
you
face
the
machine.
To
Wind
a
Bobbin
(See
Figure
5
Page
6)
place
the
bobbin
on
bobbin
winder
spindle
as
sha
1 { 0 1d
the
hand
wheel
with
the
left
hand and
turn
the
top
the
clutch
nut
towards
YOU.
This
will release
the
sew
inecmsm
of
the
machine.
Next,
place
aspool
of
thr
fl
the
spool
pin
located
on
bed of
machine
directly
be]
the
hand
wheel.
Next, take
the
end of
the
thread
and
,
it
between
the
tension
plates on
bobbin
winder
thread
gui
and
null
thread
upward
into eye
of
guide, then run
end
thread
through
hole
“B
in
bobbin.
Engage the
bobbin-winder pulley with the hand
wheel
shin
lever
“C”
downward.
Hold
end
of
thread
until
have
rn
machine
sufficiently
to
wind the
thread
around
I
bobbin
several
times;
then
break
thread off
at
hole
“B’
a
contin
to
run
machine
and
bobbin
winder
viIl
automatica
throw
off
when
proper
amount
of
thread
is wound.
-
After
the
bobbin
is
wound
and removed; tighten
clutch
nut
by
turning
the
top
of
it
from
you while holdi
the
hand
wheel
with
your
left hand.
On
non.electriC
machines
proceed
in
the
same
mann
except
that
power
for
operation
is
furnished
by
foot
trea
Fgiire
3
(See
enlarged
view
of
tension
assembly
on
page
5)
Enlarged
view
of
tension assembly
showing
thread.
ing
of
auxiliary
spring,
as
described
on
page
4.
Four
Five

Hold
bobbin
case with
thumb
and
first
finger
of
let
hand,
with
tension
tongue
(4)
upright.
Then
place
flI1e
bobbin
in
cnse,
starting
thread
into
slot
(1).
Continue
pull
ing
thread U
to end
of
slot
(2);
then
across
to
bottom
o:
slot
(3)
and
upward until thread
conies
out
at
top
of
tensioz
tongue
(4).
Leave about
two
inches
of
thread
projecting.
Caution
—
Note
carefully
the
way
the
bobbin
case
N
threaded
before
removing
bobbin
or unthreading.
Sz
Seven
OGLE
BOBBIN
BOBBIN
CASE
WINDER
u
PULLEy
CoNL
SHUTTLE
7x
If
STOP SCREW
xu
Threading
the
Bobbin
Case

To
Draw
Up
Lower
Thread
Remove
Shuttle
from
the
Shuttle
Race
While
holding
loosely
in
the
left
hand,
the
end
of
thread
extending
through
eye
of
needle
(three
or
inches),
turn
the
top
of
hand
wheel
from
:,OU
OClcwiae)
with
the
right
hand,
until
the
needle
goes
all
the
way
do
and
cornea
back
up.
The
lower
thread
will
fonn
a
loop
°‘er
the
thread
you
are
holding
and
come
up
through
the
nee.fle
hole.
Lead
the
ends
of
both
threads
back under
the
foot,
keeping
the
upper
thread
in
presser
foot
slot.
To Remove
the
Bobbin
Case
from
Shuttle
Turn
hand
wheel
(clock.
wise)
until
take-up
(5,
Fig.
3)
is
at
its
highest
point
Then
remove
the
hand
hole
cover plate
permitting
YOU
to
reach
down
to
bobbin.
Clasp
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
first
finger
of
your
left
hand as
shown
j
Fig.
7. Then with
the
second
finger
lift
up
on
latch
“s”
and
the
bobbin case
can
be
readily
removed.
Follow
the same
procedure
in
replacing
the
bobbIn case
in
shuttle.
The
hole
in
the center
spindle
inside the
bottom
case
fits
over
the
center pin
of
the
shuttle,
as shown
in
Fig.
6.
First
remove
the
hand
hole
cover
plate
and tip
head
bACk
on
its
hinges.
Next,
remove
bobbin case as
already
ex
iained.
Next,
turn
the
hand
wheel
(clockwise)
until
the
point
of
the
nele
is
just
entering
needle
plate
hole. Then
press
rear
end
of
latch
G,
shown
in
Fig.
8.
This
will
release
the
shuttle
race
cover
(Fig.
6)-
so
it
may
be readily
removed
from
under
Pin
H.
Next,
take
hold
of
the
center
pin
in
shuttle
iCP,
Fig.
8)
and
it
can
be
readily
removed
WITH
OUT
FORCE.
To
Replace the
Shuttle
Turn
the
hand
wheel
until
the
point
of
the
needle
is
just
entering
the
needle
plate
hole.
With
the
thumb
and first
finger
of
the
left
band,
hold
the
shuttle
by
the center
pin
(CP,
Fig.
8)
so
the
centers
of
the slotted
holes,
directly
opposite
each
other
in
the
outer
edge
of
the
shuttle,
are
exactly
in
line
with
the
driving
pins
(DP).
When
properly
lined
U,
the
SHARP point
of
shuttle
will
be
almost
directly
over
the
tail
of
the
arrow
(S).
It
is
imperative
that
the
5 huttle
be
properly
placed
in
the
race,
and
it
must
never
be
FORCED into
position. When the
shuttle
is in
position
re
place
shuttle
race
cover
by
slipping
the
fork
at
left
side
under pin
(H)
and
push
right
side
back
over
latch
(G)
which
will
snap
back
to
its
holding
position.
Pigur.
8
gu
Eigkt
Nine

Upper:
Regulating
the
Tensions
When
the
presser
foot
lifter
lever
(Fig
3)
raised
tension
on
the
upper
thread
is
automatically
released
Ther
fore,
the
presser
foot
must
always
be
lowered
When
adju
ing
the
upper
tension. The
tension
regulator
lever
j
located
on
the
face
of
machine
(Fig.
3).
To
increc 5
tenaj 0
Push
lever
dow,ward.
To
decrease
tension
push lever
U)iard
The
most
satisfactory
tension
for
ordinary
sewing
is
Objfled
with pointer
on
this
lever set
between figures
2
and
3
011
the
numbered
gauge.
Lower:
The
small
screw
in
center
of
the
bobbin
case
(Fig.
6)
regulates
the
tension
on
the lower
thread.
To
increase
t 11 .
sion
tighten
the screw;
to decrease
tension,
loosen
it.
either
event
only
turn
this screw
a
little
bit
kt
a
time.
Tension
should
be in
balance to
get
best
results
—
neat,
exible,
accurate
stitching.
Experiment
until
your
is
balanced
as
follows:
If
the
upper
thread
is too
tight,
the
upper
thread
will
drawn
straight
on
the
top
of
the
material,
thus:
If the lower
thread
is too
tight,
the
lower
thread
will
b.
drawn
straight
on
the bottom
of the
material,
thus:
When
tensions
are
properly
adjusted
the
stitching
o
materials
will look
the
same
on
both
sides,
thus:
-
To
Regulate
Stitch
Length
(Forward
and
Backward
With
Stops)
phe
t1
regu1at0
lever
(Fig.
5, page
6)
controls
t1
5 tit,h
iength
for
both
forward
and
reverse.
he
positb0m
of
the
stop
screw
(Fig.
5, page
6)
regt
iates
the
length
of
the
stitch,
forward
and reverse,
by
lirnii
the
movement
up
and
down
of the stitch
regulator
leve:
To
Set
the
Stitch Length:
Move
the
stitch
regulator
lever
until
the
desired numbe
5 ppears
in
the
window
then
turn the
StOP
screw
to
the
righ
until
it
comes
to
rest.
As
long
85
the
stop
screw
is not
turned
the
length
o
5 titch
will
remain
the
same.
To
sew
in
reverse,
move
the lever
down
until
it
stops.
To
sew
forward,
move
the
lever up again
until
it
stops.
If
the lever
and
stop
have
been
set
for
a short stitci
ngth
such
as
No.
2,
and the
operator
wishes
to use
a longe:
5 titch,
loosen
the
stop
screw and
set
the stitch
regulator
tc
the
desired longer
stitch
as
shown
in the
window
in the
platE
then
tighten
the
stop
screw
as before
until
it
comes
to
rest
The
5 ame
longer
stitch
will
now
result
both
forward
an
reverse,
except
that
number
4
is
the
longest
reverse stitch
‘ength.
To
Remove
the Work
The
take-Up
(5,
Fig.
3)
must
be
at
its
HIGHEST
POINT
before
8 ttemptiflg
to
remove
the work.
Failure
to do
this will
result
in
breaking
the thread
and
unthreading
the
needle.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
until
the take-up
(5, Fig.
3)
is
at
- its
highest
point,
raise
the presser
foot with
presser
foot
lever
and
DRAW
THE
FABRIC
BACK about three
inches
in
a
straight
line,
pass
both
threads
over
the
thread
cutter
on
the
presser
bar.
After
the material
has
been removed
and
the
threads
cut,
do
not
run
the machine
accidentally or
other
wise
without
material
under
the
presser
foot. (See
following
paragraph.)
IMPORTANT
the machine
is
threaded,
do
not
operate it
without
having
material
under
the presser
foot.
Failure
to
observe
this instruction
will
cause
thread
to
lodge
in
the
shuttle
mechanism and
prevent
machine
from
Teii
Eleven

The
Narrow
Hemmer
running
properly.
To
correct,
take
out
bobbin
Case
and
the machine
in
the
wrong
direction,
turning
wheel
by
hand
and
it
will
cut
thread
out;
or
better
still
remove
s
clean
the
race
and
driving
pins.
huttle
anc
To Avoid
Breaking
Needles
Never
pull
the
work,
causing
needle
to
strike
the
needle
plate.
A
needle
may
also
be
broken
by
sewing
heavy
seams
or
very
thick
goods
without
sufficient
pressure
Ofl
the
presser
foot
for
such
heavy
work.
To
increase
this pressure,
the
thumb
screw
on
top
of
the
presser
bar.
To Set
the Needle
The needle
bar
should
be
raised
to its highest
Point.
Loosen
the
thuiuu
screw
of
the needle
clamp and
Press
it
to
the
left.
This
will
permit
the
shank
of
the
needle
to pass
up
•
between
the
clamp
and
the
needle
bar
as far
as
it
will
go
with
the
flat
side
of
the
shank
to
the
right.
Then
fasten
the
needle
clamp
screw secirrely.
Use
a screw
driver.
The
needle
when
descending
should
pass in
the center
of
the
needle
plate
hole
from
front
to rear,
but
close
to
right
side
of
needle
hole.
If
it
does
not the
needle
is
either
bent
or
improperly
set.
Proper
Needles
and Thread
It
is
important
to
use
perfect
needles
that
are
not
bent
nor
blunted.
When
ordering
needles
for
this
machine
men
tion
the name
and
give
the
head number.
For
ordinary
fam
ily
sewing,
use
needle
size
No.
1.
This
will
carry
thread
No.
60
to
No.
90.
Needle
and
Thread
Sizes
Cotton
Thread
80
to
100
Other
Threads
Mercerized
Nylon
A
Silk
A
1
60
to
80
Mercerized
2
40
to
60
Mercerized
Heavy Duty
Mercerized
3
30
to
40
Heavy
Duty
Mercerized
For
plastic
film,
use
No.
0
needle and
mercerized
thread.
nothing
has
ever
equaled
the
dainty
finishing
that
it
j
05 sible
to
obtain
by
the
use
of
the
Narrow
Hemmer.
This
attachment
is
put
on
the
Sewing
Machine in
plac
of
the
p.resser
foot and
is
designed
to
turn
and
stitch
a
nar
row•
hem in
one
operation.
Before
inserting
material
in
Hemmer
crease
over
%
mci
of
its
edge
for
a
distance
of
about
2
inches,
insert
edge
ii
Hemmer
guiding
it
around
the
scroll,
folded
edge
on
tor
draw
fabric
back
until
edge
is
under
needle;
lower
presse
bar
and
begin to
stitch.
Should
stitching
appear
too
far
fror
turned
edge
of
hem,
push
Hemmer
slightly
toward
the
right
should
stitching
appear
too
close
to
edge,
or not
catching
a
all,
move
Hemmer
slightly
toward
the
left.
Guide
material
so
that
neither
too
much
feeds
into
th
scroll,
causing
wide
and
uneven
hems; neither
too
little,
nc
allowing
for
a
second
turning,
thus
leaving
a
raw edge.
Tb
scroll
should
be
kept
just
full.
I
Figure
5
Needle
Sizes
0
Twelve
TMrteen

A
Felled
Seam
with
Foot
Hemmer
Hemming
and
Sewing
on
Lace
in
One
Operatj 0
With
the
Foot
Hemmer
The
Narrow
Hemmer
is
designed
with
a
slot
at
the
right
into
which
the
edge of
lace,
rick-rack braid
or
any
finished
edge
can
be
inserted
and
stitched
to
garment
while
it
is
being
hemmed.
Proceed
to make
a
hem
in the
same
manner
described
on
previous
page.
Insert
edge
of
lace
or
trimming
right
side
down
in
slot
at
right
of
hemmer
and
see
that
the
needje
pierces
it
close
to
the
edge
just
above
turned
edge
of
hem.
Commence
to
stitch
guiding
the
lace
edge
into
the slot
of
hemmer
with
the
right
hand
while guiding
material
to
be
hemmed
into
the scroll
of
Hemmer
with the
left
hand.
Applying
lace
in
what
is
termed
the
French
manner
also
requires
the
use
of
the
Narrow
Hemmer.
Enter
the
fabric
to
be
hemmed
as
for
plain
hemming,
enter laces
from
the
left,
right
side
down,
on
top
of
the
fabric;
allow
edge of
lace
to
enter
hemmer
and
meet
material
just
as it
is
being
turned,
thus
the
hem
will
enclose
lace
edge
in one
stitching.
Press
hem back
on
wrong
side
of
fabric
and
no visible
stitching
will
mar
this
dainty
finish.
A
felled
seam
is
generally
used
where
double
strength
desired
with
a
nice
fiat
finish.
When
using the
foot
hemmer
for
felling
the
labor
is
c
in
half.
place
the
two pieces
of
material
to
be
seamed
togetli
with
right
sides
facing,
allow one
section
to
extend
about
inch
beyond
the
other.
Place
goods
under
the
Foot
Henur
just
as
though
it
were the
presser
foot,
keeping
narrow
of
seam
uppermost;
stitch,
using
the
edge
of
Foot
Hemmer
a
guide
for
seams
edge.
After stitching
is
completed
op
seams and
place
under
foot
hemmer
with
right
side
of
ma
na 1
down
fiat
on
bed
of
machine
and
the
widest
half
of
sei
toward
the
right.
This
widest
portion
of
seams
edge
is
tl
entered
in
scroll of
hemmer
(See
Fig.
11)
and
if
seam
been
evenlY
stitched the
34
inch
or
widest
half
of
seam
v
enclose
and cover
the
inch edge
in
a
neat
felled
seam.
F. 10
Figure
11
Fourteen
Fifteex

An
assortment
of
wide hemmers is
furnished
with
Y1r
Sewing
Machine.
Attach
the
desired
size
of
Hemmer to
machine
in
place
of
the
presser
foot;
crease
over
Y
inch
of
material
to
be
hemmed
for
about
two
inches
before
inserting
edge
of goods
Enter
material
and
guide
it
around
scroll
of
hemmer
using
both
hands
to
draw
it
back
and
forth
a
few
times,
while
gradually
feeding
the
cloth
into
the
hemmer so
as
tO
fill
the
scroll
completely.
Draw
material
back
so
that
creased
edge
fits
around
edge of
scroll in
hemmer
and
selvedge
edges
meet.
Hold
both
under
and
upper threads
and
proceed to
stitch.
Should
the
stitching
appear
too far
from
turned
edge
of
hem
loosen
thumb
screw
and
move
hemmer
toward
the
right.
If
it
appears
dangerously
close to
turned
edge of
hem
move
hemmer
toward
the
left.
As
material
is
stitched
through the
large
hemrners
the
turn
at
edge of
hem
is
visible.
Allow
the
hem
to
ride
freely
through
the hemmer,
never
drawing
on
the
edge being
turned,
but
gently
retarding
the material
under
the
hemmer, using
the
left
hand.
Cutting
Gauge
The
cutting
gauge
is
used
as
a
guide
when
cutting
bias bands
for
use
as
binding;
or
narrow
bands
either
straight
or
bias
to
be
used
as
facings,
pipings,
or
narrow
ruffling.
FrUre
15
Attach
cutting
gauge
to
lower
point
of
scissors,
move
gauge
slide
to
width
of
band
desired.
Insert
the
material
to
be
cut
between
the
blades
of
the
cutting
gauge
with
the
edge
of
material
against
the
slide,
then
cut
moving
the
scissors
forward
in
short
even
clips.
It
is
important
that bind
ings
to
be
used
with
the
binder
be
cut
on
a
true
bias
to
produce
perfect
work.
Only
a
true
bias
will
stretch
evenly.
4
Figure
H
The
inch
and
fractions
thereof,
d
ignated
on
the cutting
gauge,
enab
one
to
cut
material
of
any
texture
p
fectly
for
use with
the
binder.
%-inch
of
+4-inch
is
correct
for
firn
woven
materials.
1-inch
to
1-inch
is
correct
for
yr
terialS
that
stretch
more
readily.
T
gauge
slide
is
adjustable
and can
moved
to
the
left
or
right.
Wide
Hemmers
Figuze
12
Sixteen
Seventeen

The Multiple
Slot
Binder
The
popularity for
bindings
that
do
double
duty
never
diminishes. Bindings
are
frequently
used
to
finish
the
edges
of
fabric
as
well as
furnishing
a
garment’ 8
only
trimming.
The
Multiple
Slot
binder
is
de
signed
to
Cover
every
binding
need
whether
it
be
the
actual
making
of
dainty
garme
that
call
for
narrow
bindings
or
in
the
construction
of
so
many
house.
hold
utilities.
The
Multiple
Slot
Binder
l.a
made
with
&
different
sized
lot
each designed
to
carry
binding
o
their
width.
Size
1-2-34
5
Commercial single
fold
binding
must
be
used
and
fed
into the
slots
of
same
size
as
illustrated
The
familiar
%
inch
or
+j
inch
bias
cut
binding
which
every
woman
has
always
used
is
entered
through
the
open
mouth
of
the
scro
The
Binder
is
adjustable
aide.
wise
to
bring
the
stitching
prop..
erly
close to
the
edge
of
binding.
Exclusive Bindings
with
the
Multiple
Slot
Binder
Remove the
presser foot, attach
Binder
in
its
place.
As
shown
in Fig. 18 the Multiple
Slot
Binder
can
be
used
for attractive
combination trimmings
so
much
in
vogue
on
jabots
and
frilled accessories.
Our
illustration shows
a
tricolored
trim
using
com
mercial single
fold bindings sizes 1—3
and
5.
Sizes
5
and
8
act
as two
tone pipings while size 1 binds the
edge
enclosing
the
fabric
in the double
piping all in
one
single
stitching.
This
trimming is just as effective on
the
reverse
side
of
fabric
making It adesirable accomplishment
for any
dainty
cascade.
Eighteen
I
•1
Figure
18
Clip
bid1!
to a
decided
point and
enter each
width
its
respective
slot
helping
it
beyond
the needle with
the
of
a
large
needle
or
pin and
starting
with the narrow
width.
The
edge
to
be
bound
is
inserted
in the center of
attaChmt
between
the
scroll
and
held in as
far as
possil
without
crowding.
Many
lovely double
binding
combinations are possible
several
different
sizes:
1
and 3;
2
and
4;
or 3 and
5.
Binding
with
Bias
Cut Binding
Binding
that
has
been
cut
and
prepared
for
Bind
should
be
cut
to
a
long
point,
inserr.ed into the scrolls
Binder and
helped
forward
beyond
the needle by the aid
of
large
pin. Lower
presser
bar
and
stitch
to ascertain
whe
stitching
line
appears
on
binding.
Nineteen

The
Binder
is
adjustable
and
can
be
moved to
left
o
right,
until
line
of
stitching appears
safely
close
to
edge
of
binding.
In
binding
scallops
it
is
necessary
to hold
the
edge
to
be
bound
well
into
the
fold
between
scroll
of
Binder
as
fabric
nears
the
needle,
at
this point
only
is
binding
being
stitched
and
if
care
is
exercised
no
stretch
will
appear
on
this
curved
edge.
Illustration
of bound
scallops
(Fig. 19)
clearly
show3
this
operation.
Additional
rows of
binding
can
be applied
as a
trimming
by
placing
garment
to
be
trimmed
under
the
Binder
and
guid
ing the spaces
between
rows
by the
edge of
Binder
Frame.
So
much
depends
upon
the
accuracy
in
stitching
espe
when
successive
rows
are
used
for
trimming.
The
quiltei
act
as
an
accurate
guide
for
any
stitching
that
is
si
wider
apart
than
the
presser
foot
allows.
For
genuine
quilting
over
wadding
the
Quilter
C
used
with
the
Quilter
Foot
has
no
equal.
Place
as
z
thicknesses
of
wadding
over
the
wrong
side
of
quilt
f:
as
desired,
place
a
piece
of
cheese
cloth
over
the
who
insure
the
even
pucker
so
desirable
on
comfortables
or
q
Free
the
thread
cutter
screw
at
back of presser
sufficientlY
to
allow
quilter
wire
to
fit
into
the screw
Adjust
Quilter
Guide
the
distance
from
needle desired
high
enough
from
bed
of
machine
so
that
material
can
under
it
freely,
then tighten
screw.
Set
the machine
stitch
fairly
long
and
keep
the
w
side
of
quilt
uppermost.
For
extremely
thick
padding release
the pressure
ox
Quilter
Foot
by
turning
the
Presser
Bar
Cap.
(Fig.
3).
I
—
•,_
h.
•.-;_.
Quilting
Ylgur.
1
Figure
20
Twenty
Twenty-one

Ruffling
Enter
material
to
be
ruffled
between
blue
blades.
Edge
of
material
is
guided
into
one
of
several
slots
or
adjustable
guides
provided
for
different
widths
of
seam
allowance
or
headings,
as
shown
in
these
pictures.
At
point
“A”,
set
pin
in
No.
1
opening
for
gather
at
every
stitch.
At
point
“B”
loosen
screw
and
set lever
for
depth
of
gather.
No.
1
makes
the
finest
gather.
Length
of
stitch
on
sew
in
machine
varies amount
of
fullness.
pleating
can
be
formed
in
a
wide
range
of
effects.
Ruffler
can
be
set
for
deep
or
shallow
pleats,
spaced
c
together
or
far
apart.
Six-Stitch
Pleating
At
point
“A”
set
pin
in
No.
6
opening
for
pleat
every
sixth
stitch.
At
point
“B”
loosen
screw,
slide
lever
down to
deepen
pleat.
Space
pleats
by
‘ength
of
stitch
on
sewing
machine.
At
point
“A”
set
pin
in
No.
12
opening
for
pleat
every
twelfth
stitch.
At
point
“B”
loosen
screw,
slide
lever
down
to
deepen
pleat.
Space
pleats
by
length
of
stitch
on
sewing
machine.
Group
Pleating
Set
Ruifler
for
six-stitch
or
twelve-stitch
pleating,
above,
proceed to
make
first
group
of
pleats.
Stop
sewi
At
point
“A”
set
pin
in
neutral
opening
marked
star.
Stitch
without
pleat
ing
to
point
where
next
group
of
pleats
begin.
Reset
pin
at
point
“A”
to
previous
pleating
position.
Ruffler
A.
Slots
to
space
fullness
at
number
of
stitches.
B.
Slide
lever
to
regulate
depth
of
pleat.
Attach
Ruflier
by
placing
the
foot
“C”
on
attachment
holder
and
the
fork
arm
astride
the
needle clamp
screw.
See
that
needle
goes
down
n
center
of
needle
hole
in
Ruffier.
I
Twelve-Stitch
Pleating
Twenty-two
Twenty-three

Shirring
Piping
and
Edgestitching
to
Ruffle
The
Shirring
Plate
is
used
to
make
wide
ruffles,
deep
headings
on
ruffles,
and
for
continuous
rows
of
shirring.
To
Use
Shirring
Plate:
1.
Remove
handhole
cover.
Put Shirring
Plate on
machine
with
point
“YY”
in
screw
hole
of needle
plate.
Point
“XX”
goes
in
squared opening
of
needle
plate, and
is
held
in
place with
handhole
cover,
replaced
at
this
point.
2.
Remove
lower
blade
and
heading
guide
by
loosening
small
screw
on
right
side
of
Ruffler,
and
Slipping
for
ward.
Tighten
small
scrgw.
3.
Put
Ruffler
on
machine
as
before.
4.
Set
attachment
for
ruffling.
For
several
rows
of
shirring, it
helps
to
use
the
Quilt
ing
Guide
for
spacing.
Use
Ruff1
with
Shirring
Plate.
Enter
material
to
ffled
between
blades
from
right
Guide into
seam-allo’cvan
50 t
of
5hirflng
Plate.
Place
piping through
squared
openir
on
left.
Fold
under
edge
of
base
fabric.
Guide
folded
ed
into
slot
above
piping
and
above
blades.
To
adjust
the
guic
So
needle
sews
on
very
edge,
loosen
screw behind needle
ho
and
slide
Twenty-four
Twenty-five

Combination
Edge-Stitcher,
Tucking
Guide
and
Top-Braider
The
Edge-Stitching
Attachment
is
fastened
to
the
machine in
the
same
manner
as
the
Presser-Foot.
There
are
five
different
slots,
which
are
shown
j
the
illustration,
serving
as
guides
for
sewing
together
laces,
insertions,
em.
broideries, sewing
in
position
folded
or
hemmed
edges,
bias-folded
material
or
piping,
etc.
How
to
Adjust
the
Edge-Stitcher
To
adjust,
move
the
lug
“A”
to
the
right
or
left
until
the
desired
adjustment
is
obtained.
When
sewing
two
pieces
of
lace
together,
it
is
very
necessary
that
the
attachment
is
adjusted
to
stitch
exactly
on
the
edge,
so
that
the
edges
wili
not
fold
over
when
laundered.
When
sewing
laces or
soft
materials
together,
it
is
better
to hold
the
edges,
slightly
overlapped.
This
will
prevent
the
lace
from
feeding
away
from
the
guide.
When
the
attachment
is
properly adjusted,
the most
in.
experienced
operator
may
sew
yards
of
lace
or
material
together
with
no
difficulty.
Tucking
The
numbers
2
to
6
inclusive
stamped
on
the back
edge
of
the
sliding
guide
represent
the
width
of
tuck
in
eighth
of
an
inch.
After
folding
the
material for
the
first
tuck
put
the
folded
edge
into
the
guide
slot
which
is nearest
the
needle.
When
the
left
edge
of
the
friction
spring
“H”
coincides
with
the
number
2
on
the
scale
a
Y”
tuck results
In like
manner,
set
the
guide
at
3 for
a
%“
tuck.
In
like
manner,
set
the
guide
at
4
for
a
%“
tuck.
In
like
manner,
set
the
guide
at
5
for
a
%
tuck.
In like
manner,
set
the guide
at
6
for
a
84n
tuck.
For
tucks
narrower
than
1%”
move
the guide “G”
as
far
as
desired
to
the
left.
Braiding
Move
the
guide
“G”
to
the
right
until
the
braiding
gt
hole
“K”
is
exactly
in
line
with
the
needle
hole
of
the
atts
ment. The
design
to
be
braided
should
be
plainly
marked
gmped
on
the
top or
right
side
of
the
fabric.
Start
soutache
braid
into
hole
“K”
and
stitch
along design,
be
sure
that
the
soutache
braid
is
feeding
freely
into
hole
without twisting.
To
a
corner,
stop
the
machine
4
the
need’e
down
through
the
braid
in
the
exact
corner
of
design,
raise
the
presser-bar
just
enough
to
permit
the
tt
ing
bf
the
fabric
in
the
desired
direction,
lower
the
pres
bar
and
proceed
as
before.
Twent,.ejz
Twentlf-SCVCfl

The
Slurring
Foot
The
Combination
Adjustable
Zipper
ttadhing
and
Cording
Foot
One
of
the
very
newest and
well
liked
Sewing Machine
trimmings
is
the
dainty
smocking
obtained
when
using
the
Shirring
Foot.
Fig.
26
shows
rows
of
shirring
held
firmly
by
a
row
of
DMC
Floss
entered
through
the
needle
hole
of
Shirring
Foot
and
stitched
to
garment
while
it
is
being
gathered.
These
con
tinuous
rows of
shirring
are
broken
by
a
diagonal
shirring
which
produces
a
very
attractive
puffing
for
a
smocked
effect.
The
Shirring
Foot
replaces
the
presser-foot
for
this
work
and
the
amount
of
fullness
obtainable
is
governed
by
the
setting
of
machine
stitch
and
tension.
For
fine
shirring
sot
the
stitch
short;
to
obtain
greater
fullness lengthen
the
stitch
and
tighten
the
upper
tension.
Carefully
guide
fabric
as
it
is
being
gathered
so
that
material
feeds
to
the
needle
singly.
Remove
the
regular
presser
foot
and
attach
the
Ad
able
Combination
Attachment
in
its
place. Loosen
the
U
screw
on
the
attachment
and
move
the
foot
to
the
rig
the
cording
is
to
be
to
the
left
of
the
needle.
See
tha
needle
goes
down
in
center
of
the
needle
hole
before
tig
ing
the
thumb
screw.
Fold a
strip
of
bias
over
the
cord,
right
side
out,
place
under
the
attachment.
Stitch
along
close
to
the
Fig.
27
shows
the
Adjustable Attachment
being
us
cover
cord
and
ioin
it
to
a
fabric
ede
in
one
stitching
When
the
fabric
is
extremely
bu
ky,
loosen
the
Pr
Bar
Adjusting
Cap
Screw
slightly
to
al
ow
the
fabricto
more
freely under
the
Adjustable
Combination
Attach
This
attachment
is
designed
S
can
be
adjusted
for
stitching
ei
left
or
right
side
of
cording
in
a
s
or
for
stitching
right
or
left
when
attaching
a
slide
fastener.
just
by
loosening
thumb
screw
sliding
foot
to
desired position
on
Inserting
Cording
Figure
26
FIgure
27
Twenty-eight
Twent

I
Attaching
a
Slide
Fastener
__
4
-
-—-“
:.
Remove
the
regular
presser
foot and
attach
the Com
bination
Attachment
in
its
place.
Loosen
the thumb
screw
on
the
attachment
and
move
the foot
to
the
right
or
left
as
desired.
See
that
the
needle
goes
down
in center
of
the
needle
hole
before
tightening
the
thumb
screw.
The
needle
holes
on
either
side
are
cut
deep
enough
to
allow
sufficient
space
between
the
metal
of
the
slide
fastener
and the
line
of
stitching
so
the
fabric
will
not
catch
in
the
slide
pull
as
it
is
being
opened
and
closed.
Fig.
28
shows
a
slide
fastener
being
stitched
in a
gar
ment
with
the
Combination
Adjustable Zipper
Attaching
and
Cording
Foot
positioned
to
the
right
of
the
needle.
To
Install
Sewing
Machine
Head
on
Cabinet
Place
the
head
on
cabinet
rige
2)
n
ks
two
binges
d
to
back
of
in
top
of
cab
inet.
TIP
head back
and
tighten
head
singe
set
screws
(Fig.
2)
secUrelY.
pull
bushing
U
on
motor cord as
near
to
the
motOr
as
pos
sible
and
slip
motor
cord
into
slot
at
edge
of
bed
plate
and
rush
bushing
back
Into
hole
in
bed
plate
(see
Fig.
9).
Un
wind
the
exteflslOfl
cord
inside
the
cabinet, plug
into
an
base
plug
outlet, and the
machine
is
ready
for
operation.
If
machine
is
treadle
operated,
merely
place
leather
bel
around
hand
wheel
drive
pulley
as
of
course
there
is no
moto
or
electrical
connections.
Motor
Lubrication
Two
cups
(one
at
either
end
of
the
motor
shaft)
provid
for
motor
lubrication.
Unscrew
the
caps and
fill
with
petro
leuni
jelly
occasionallY,
depending
upon
the
use
of
the
ma
chine,
approximately
every
six
months.
Speed
Control
and
Current
The
desired sewing
speed
is
obtained
by
pressing
th
knee
lever.
Removing
pressure
from
the
knee
lever
auto
maticallY
stops
the machine.
The
motor
can
be used
on
eithe
AC
or
DC,
110
or
115
volts up
to 75
cycles.
Motor
Pulley
Be
sure
the motor
pulley
(Fig.
9)
is
adjusted
so
ii
centers
on
the
disc
wheel
of
the
machine.
-c
-r-
•
FIrure
2S
Thirty Thirty-one

SIMPLE
CORRECTIONS
FOR
MINOR
DIFFICULTIES
This
sewing
machine
was
carefully
adjusted
and
tested
before
being delivered,
and with
proper
care and
attention
according
to
the
directions
in
this
book
should
give
you
no
trouble.
To
be
sure
of
getting
the
proper
supplies
for
it,
such
as needles,
oil
and
bobbins
we
recommend
that
you
buy
them
from
us,
always
giving
the
name
of
your
machine
and
its
serial
number.
If
your machine
should
actually
need replacement
parts
or
repair
service
we
suggest
that
you
get
in touch with
us.
Do
not
permit
just
anybody
who
comes
along
to
tamper
with
or
attempt
to
fix
your
machine.
Unskilled
agents and
un..
trained
repair
men
often
do
far
more
harm
than
good
in
attempting
to
adjust
a
sewing
machine.
For
the
most
part
sewing
machine
troubles
can
be
reme
died by
minor
adjustments
easy
to perform.
Should
Your
machine
start
misbehaving,
check
over the
following
list
of
minor
difficulties
and simple
corrections
for
them,
before
calling
for
help.
If
it
Skips
Stitches
The
trouble
may
be
caused
by—
1.
Crooked
Needle:
May
be
hardly
perceptible
yet
sufficient
to
cause skipping.
Unthread
the
needle,
remove
presser
foot,
turn
machine
by
hand. Needle
should
maintain
a
constant
position
in
relation
to
the
needLe
hole
as
the
needle
passes
down
through
the
needle
plate
hole.
Replace
with
a
new
needle
and
make
certain
this
is
not
the
cause
of
trouble.
2.
Incorrect
Needle—or
too
fine
a
needle:
It
is very
important
that
you
have
the
correct
needle.
Be
certain
to
follow
the table
in
this
instruction
book in
selecting
the
proper
size
needle
for
size
of
thread
and
material
being
used.
3.
Needle
incorrectly
set:
The
needle
must
be
pushed
up
as
far
as
it
will
go
into
the
needle
clamp
with
the
flat
side
of
the
shank
to
the
right
and
fastened
securely with
thumb
screw.
4.
Needle
rubs
Presser
Foot:
Adjust
presser
foot
holder
on
the
presser
bar
so
th
needle
is
closer
to,
but
,iot
rubbing,
the
right
side
of t
presser
foot.
To
make
this
adjustment,
loosen
the
snut
screw
that
fastens
preSser
foot
holder
to
presser
ha
Adjust
the foot
to the
proper
position
and
firmly
tghtc
screw.
The
needle
should
be
a
trifle
closer
to the
rig)
side
of
the foot.
if it
Breaks
Thread
The
trouble may
be
caused
by—
i.
Wrong Needle
being
used:
it
is
important
before
trying
anything
else to put
in
new
straight
needle,
proper
kind
and size.
2.
Needle
too
fine:
Select
the
proper
needle
and
thread
according
to
th
table
elsewhere
in
this
instruction
book.
3.
Hole
in
the Needle
Plate
Choked
with Stray
Threads:
Pull
threads
from
the
underside
of
needle
plate
witi
screw
driver
or
long
needle,
or
better remove
plate
anc
clean.
4.
Machine
Improperly Threaded:
Check
over
carefully
the
instructions
on
threading thE
machine
and
observe
especially
the threading of
the
check
spring
on
top
of
the
face
plate.
5. Top
Tension
too
Tight:
Refer
to
instructions
elsewhere
in this
hook
On
the
proper
adjustment—both upper
and
lower
tensions.
6.
Needle
too
Close to
Presser
Foot:
Adjust
foot
as
described “Needle
Rubs
on
Presser Foot”
under
“Skips
Stitches”.
7.
Examine
needle
hole
in needle
plate.
If
it
has
become
rough
or
burred
from
needle
striking
it,
needle
plate
should
be
replaced
with
a
new one.
if
It
Breaks
Needles
The
trouble
may
be
caused
by—
1.
Pulling
of
the
material
when sewing
will
break
needles.
Guide
the
material
only—do
not
pull.
4,
Thirty-two
Thirty-three

2.
Wrong
Needle
being used:
Be
sure
you
are
using
the
correct
needle
for
this
machine
3.
Needle
incorrectly
set—too
low:
-
See
instructions
elsewhere
in
this
book
on
how
to
P1o
erly
set
needle
and
follow
instructions
carefully.
4.
Needle
Rubs
on
Presser
Foot:
Adjust
foot
as
described
“Needle
rubs
on
Presser
Foot”
under
“Skips
Stitches”.
6.
Needle
not
firmly
set:
After
being
certain
needle
is
properly
set
be
sure it
is
held
tight
by
needle clamp
screw—use
a
screw
driver.
If
Puckers
On
Ordinary
Material
The
trouble
may
be
caused
by—
1.
Tensions
NOT
in
balance:
Reduce
the
tension
on
upper
thread
by
moving
indicator
towards
No.
1.
Do
some
testing.
If
this fails,
examine
lower
tension
on
bobbin
case
for proper adjustment
and
proceed
to
balance
the
tensions.
See instructions
else
where
in
this
book
on
tension
adjustment.
2.
Blunt
Needle—Replace
with
a
new
straight
needle-_..ex.
amine
needle
point.
If
Puckers
On
Fine
Material
The
trouble
may
be
caused
by—
1.
Both
tensions
may
be
too
tight:
Adjust
upper
and
lower
tensions—must
be in
balance
For
chiffon
and
other
very
light
materials,
best
results
are
obtained with
upper
tension
set
at
and the
lower
tension
in
balance
with
that.
However,
sufficient
tension
must
be
maintained
to
raise
the
small
auxiliary
spring
(No.
4
in
Fig.
3)
when
machine
is in
operation.
2.
Presser
foot
loose
in
holder:
Tighten
knurled
thumb
screw.
3.
Blunt
Needle:
Replace
with
new
straight
needle—examine
needle point.
4.
Needle
Plate
pars
in
this
plate
might
be
slightly
bent
down.
N
plate
hole
might
be
rough
from
needle
striking
it
either
case
a
new needle
plate
is
required.
Loose
itcbing
The
trouble
may
be
caused
by—
1.
Tension
too
loose—either
top,
bottom
or
both:
See
instructions
elsewhere
on tension
adjustment
balance.
2.
Upper
Tension
fails
to
Operate
Satisfactorily:
Lint
or
stray
threads
lodged
between
tension
plate
Nc
Raise
the
presser
foot
lifter
(see
illustration).
Set
tension
regulator
at
figure No.
1,
next cut
a
piece of 1
cloth
to
a
point
and di
this strip
of
cloth
thro
and under
tension
p1
No.
1
and
close
to
sci
No.
3
on the
side
from
as
shown
in
illustratj
This
cloth
should
be
dra
down
through
tension
p1
No. I
and
washer No. 2
4
shown
in
illustration),
t
can be
accomplished
holding
tension
plate
(I’
1)
and
washer
(No.
apart
with
a
small sen
driver.
Be
careful
to
dri
the
cloth
between
plc
No.
1
and
washer
No.
When
you
have
this do
in
place,
drop
the
press
bar
lifter,
move
the te
sion
regulator
toward N
8
and
pull
the
cloth up
az
down a
few
times
which
will
remove
any
bits
of
thread
lint
from
between
tension
plate
No.
1
and
washer No.
Thirty-four Thirty-five