Kenmore 385. 18630890 User manual

SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 18630890
JUNE, 1998

CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFYTHE PARTS ......................................................................
WHAT TO DO WHEN .............................................................................................
THREADING OF MACHINE .................................................................................
1
2-4
5
SERVICEACCESS
FACE COVER ..................................................................................6
IOP COVER ...........................................................................................6
BASE PLATE .........................................................................................7
BED COVER ..........................................................................................7
BELTCOVER .......................................................................................8
FREE ARM COVER ................................................................................8
FRONT COVER ......................................................................................9
REAR PANEL .......................................................................................10
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION ................................................................................11
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT .............................................12
NEEDLE SWING ....................................................................................13
STRAIGHT STITCHING.......................................................................14,15
DISTRIBUTIONOF NEEDLESWING ......................................................16, 17
STRETCH STITCHBALANCE .................................................................18.19
FEEDDOG HEIGHT...............................................................................20,21
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ...........................................................................22,23
NEEDLE TO SHUI-rLETIMING ...............................................................24,25
NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE ..................................................26
BACKLASH (LOWER SHAFT GEAR) ..................................................27
BuI-rONHOLE STITCHBALANCE .................................................28,29
NEEDLE POSITION ............................................................................30,31
ZERO FEEDING ..................................................................................32,33
BASIC NEEDLEPOSITION ....................................................................34
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (I)............................................................35
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (2) .....................................................36
MOTOR BELTTENSION ................................................................37
REPLACING THE INDICATOR PLATE ...........................................................38
OILING ....................................................................................................39
WIRING OF TERMINALBLOCK ...............................................................40
SPECIALTOOLS REQUIRED....................................................................41
V1,0

SEWINGMACHINEDIV20 MODEL385,18630890
LOCATEAND IDENTIFYTHEPARTS
Upper Thread Guide Thread Spool Pin Bobbin Wlndlng Spindle
Stitch Width Setting Display
Stitch Width Control
Top thread Tension
Face
Stitch Length Control
Guide Display
Hook
Hook Covet Plate Release Button
Buttonhole Pitch Balance Adjusting Lever
"_ontrol
Speed Range Switch
Extension table (Accessory storage box)
Carrying Handle
Free Arm
Stretch Stitch Adjuster Drop Feed Lever
Power Switch Nomenclature Plate
Machine Socket
Buttonhole "_
Level
PresserFoot
Thumb Screw
Presser Foot

SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385_ 18630890
WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION CAUSE REFERENCE
I, SKIPPING
STITCHES
2. FABRICNOT
MOVING
1. NEEDLEISNOr INSERTED
PROPERLY.
2. NEEDLEISBENTOR WORN.
3oINCORRECTLYTHREADED.
4. NEEDLEORTHREADARE
INAPPROPRIAIE FOR
FABRICBEING SEWN.
5. SEWINGON STRETCH
FABRIC.
6. PRESSERFOOT PRESSURE
ISTOO WEAK.
7, INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT,
8. INAPPROPRIATENEEDLE
TOSHUTTLETIMING.
9. INAPPROPRIATENEEDLE
TOSHUTTLECLEARANCE.
1. PRESSERFOOT PRESSURE
ISTOO WEAK
2 INCORRECTFD HEIGHT_
3. F.D. ISIN DOWN POSITION.
4. THREADON BOTTOMSIDE
OF FABRICISJAMMED UP.
5. FEEDDOG TEEIHARE
WORN.
HOW TO FIX
INSERTTHENEEDLEPROPERLY.
CHANGE THENEEDLE
RETHREAD.
USETHERECOMMENDED
SDNING NEEDLEAND THREAD
USEA#11 BLUETIPNEEDLE.
ADJUSTTHEPRESSERBAR
LEVELTO MAKE THE
PRESSURESTRONGER.
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLEBAR HEIGHT_,
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLETO SHUTTLETIMING"
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT_NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE._
ADJUSTTHEPRESSERBAR
LEVELTO MAKE THE
PRESSURESTRONGER.
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT_FEEDDOG
HEIGHT._
RAISETHEF.D. LEVEL.
MAKE SURETO BRING
BOTHNEEDLEAND BOBBIN
THREADUNDERTHEFOOT
WHEN STARTINGSEWING
CHANGE THEFEEDDOG
P.22, 23
P.24, 25
P.26
P.20, 21

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.18630890
CONDITION CAUSE
3oBREAKING 1.
UPPER
THREAD 2,
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
4.BREAKING 1.
BOBBIN
THREAD 2.
3.
4.
5.
5.NEEDLE 1.
BREAKS
INITIALSEWINGSPEEDIS
TOOFAST.
THREADPATHIS
INCORRECT.
NEEDLEtSBENTORDULL.
UPPERTHREADTENSIONIS
TOOSTRONG.
NEEDLESIZEIS
INAPPROPRIATEFOR
FABRIC.
NEEDLEEYEISWORN,
NEEDLEHOLEINNEEDLE
PLATEISWORNORBURRED°
INCORRECTLYTHREADED
BOBBIN.
TOOMUCHTHREADIS
AROUNDONTHEBOBBIN.
LINTiSSTUCKINSIDETHE
BOBBINHOLDER.
THREADQUALITYIS
TOOLOW.
THREADISJAMMING
AROUNDTHEBOBBIN
NEEDLEISHITTINGTHE
NEEDLEPLATE.
2 NEEDLEISBENTORWORN
3.NEEDLEISHITTINGTHE
SHUTTLE.
4.THEFABRICMOVESWHILE
THENEEDLE1SPiERCiNG
IT.ORTHENEEDLEZIGZAGS
WHILEINFABRIC.
5.FABRICiSBEINGPULLEDTOO
STRONGLYWHILESEWING
HOWTOFIX REFERENCE
STARTWITHMEDIUMSPEED.
USETHEPROPERTHREAD
PATH.
REPLACEWITHANEWNEEDLE
ADJUSTUPPERTHREAD
TENSIONCORRECTLY.
USEAPPROPRIATENEEDLE
ANDTHREADFORFABRIC
INUSE.
CHANGETHENEEDLE.
REPAIRTHEHOLEOR
REPLACETHENEEDLEPLATE.
THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY.
ADJUSTTHEPOSITIONOF
STOPPER.
CLEAN THESHUTTLE.
CHANGE TOA HIGH QUALITY
SEWING THREAD.
CLEAROUT THEJAMMING
THREAD
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
POSITION,"
CHANGE THENEEDLE.
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHU1-rLE"
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
SWING."
GUIDE THEFABRICGENTLY
WHILESEWING
P.30,3t
P.26
P.13

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385,18630890
CONDITION
6=NOISY
OPERATION
7.DEFORMATION
PA_ERN
8,IMPROPER
BUTIONHOLE
CAUSE REFERENCE
P271_BACKLASHBETWEEN
SHUTTLEHOOKGEARAND
LOWERSHAFTGEARtSTOC
GREAT.
2.LOWERSHAFTGEARIS
HOWTOFIX
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BACKLASH
(LOWERSHAFTGEAR)."
EUM1NATETHELOOSENESS.
LOOSE,
3.INAPPROPRIATEBELT
TENSION,
4,NOTENOUGHOIL
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"MOTOR
BELTTENSION."
OILALLMOVINGPARTS.
5.UPPERSHAFTiSLOOSE
1,INAPPROPRIATEFEED
BALANCE
2.INAPPROPRIATEZIGZAG
SYNCHRONIZATION,
3, UPPER THREAD TENSION
ISTOO STRONG_
I,BUTTONHOLESTITCH
BALANCE ISNOT CORRECT;
2 IMPROPERSIZEON AUTO
BUTTONHOLE
3>CHANGING TO BARTACK
ISTOO FASTOR WILL NOT
WORK.
ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"STRETCH
STITCHBALANCE°"
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
SWING,"
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"TOP TENSION_
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BUTTONHOLE
STITCHBALANCE."
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION (1)_"
SEEMECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION (2)."
P.37
P_18,t9
P13
P,28, 29
E35
P.36

SEWINGMACHINEDIV,20 MODEL385_18630890
THREADING OF MACHINE
THENUMBEREDSTEPSBELOW FOLLOW THENUMBERS ON THEILLUSTRATIONS,
DoI-rED LINESSHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN ISPULLEDTIGHT,
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITSHIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL
TOWARD YOU.
RAISETHEPRESSERFOOT LEVER,
PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THEBACK OF THE SPOOL
1 DRAW THREAD THROUGH THETHREAD GUIDE,
2, HOLDING THREAD TAUTWITH RIGHT HAND, DRAW THREAD DOWN iNTO THETENSION
AREA AND THENAROUND THECHECK SPRING HOLDER,
3. FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THETAKE-UP LEVERFROM RIGHT TO LEFT.
4. PULLTHETHREADTO THE LEFTAND SLiPITINTO THENEEDLEBAR THREAD GUIDE
5 THREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONTTO BACK,
NOTE: YOU MAY WANT IO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR
EASIERNEEDLETHREADING.

SEWINGMACHINEDIV20 MODEL385 18630890
SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A)
2. REMOVE THE SETSCREWS (B).
3. TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.
10P COVER
f
(11))
CE)
t, OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVE SETSCREWS (B) AND (C).
3. "fAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF,
*WHEN YOU REPLACE THE TOP COVER, SET THE PROJECTION (E) INTO THE
GROOVE (F) OF THEBELTCOVER,

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385 t8630890
BASEPLATE SERVICE ACCESS
(A) (B)
1. REMOVE 4 SETSCREWS (A)_
2. REMOVE THE BASE PLATE (B)_
BED COVER
2, REMOVE 2 SETSCREWS (D), REMOVE THE BED COVER (E)
* WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SET THE DROP LEVER (F) IN THE LEFT
POSITION,
7

SEWINGMACHINEDtV.20 MODEL385,]8630890
BELT COVER
SERVICE ACCESS
BELTCOVER
(B)
LATCH
LOOSEN SETSCREW (A) AND REMOVE SET SCREW (B). PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF
BELT COVER tN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW, AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE
LATCH OFF, THEN REMOVE THE BELTCOVER.
* WHEN YOU ATTACH THEBELTCOVER, SETTHEPROJECTION INTO THEGROOVE OF THE
FRONT COVER,
FREEARM COVER
f
NEEDLE PLATE
(A)
FREEARM COVER
1 REMOVE SETSCREW (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
2. REMOVE THEBED COVER (SEEPAGE 7)
3, REMOVE SCREW (B) AND THE FREEARM COVER

SEWINGMACHINEDtV.20 MODEL385 18630890
SERVICE ACCESS
FRONI COVER
f
(A)
®
(c)
(c)
_PEEDRANGE SWITCH
1, OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2, REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), THE BELTCOVER, (SEE P,8)
3. REMOVE SETSCREW (A). (B).
4_ LOOSEN SETSCREWS (C), (D) THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (E),
5. PULLTHEFRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH (F) OF THEREAR COVER.
6 REMOVE THELOWER PART OF THETHREAD GUIDE (G),
TO REPLACE, FOLLOW THISPROCEDURE IN REVERSE,

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385,18630890
REARPANEL
f
SERVICE ACCESS
(c) _7"_
IrE)
(E)
PRESSERFOOT LEVER TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER
PART FROM THEPRESSERFOOT LEVER,
REAR PANEL UNIT
1,
2,
3
4,
OPEN THE FACE COVER
REMOVE THETOP COVER UNIT (SEE P,6), THE BELt' COVER (SEE P,8) AND THE FRONT
COVER. (SEEP,9)
REMOVE SETSCREWS(A) ,(B), (C), AND LOOSEN SETSCREWS(D) - (F),
LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT LEVER AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT FROM
THE MACHINE FRAME. TWISTAND REMOVE THEARM COVER PART FROM THEPRESSER
FOOT LEVER.
WHEN YOU ATTACH THE REAR PANEL, PUT THE "WINDOW" ON THE PLASTIC PANEL
OVER THEPRESSERFOOT LEVER 'THEN,REPLACE THE6 SCREWS,
10

SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION
TO CHECK:
]. SEt"THETENSION DIAL AT "4 "AND RAISETHEPRESSERFOOT.
2_ PASS THE THREAD (A) BEIWEEN THE DISCS AND DRAW THE THREAD (A) DOWN
AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FiG. 1.
3. LOWER THE PRESSERFOOT AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.
4. "fOP TENSIONSHOULD BE75- 90g WHEN PULLING THETHREAD (A) UP tN THEDIRECTION
(B).
* USEPOLYESTERSEWING THREAD -#50 (WHITE)_
*IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
I, REMOVE FRONTCOVER UNIT,(SEEP.9)
2. PULLSPRING (C) AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW (D).
3 IF THE TOP TENSION IS1'OO LOOSE, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION
(E)_
IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, 'TURNTHE LEAD SCREW (D) tN THE DIRECTION
(F).
THREAD TENSION DIAL (4)
TO TIGHTEN 1,.,;_
_E)/'-"
TOLOOSEN/
(D)
PULL THISWAY
(B)
FIG I
11

SEWINGMACHINEDIV_20 MODEL385,18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR I'|EIGHT AND ALIGNMENT
TO CHECK:
t_ RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B),
2o THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (,A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C)
SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24")_
" IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
I. OPEN THE FACE COVER
2, RAISETHE PRESSERFOOT LEVER(B) AND LOOSEN THEHEXAGONAL SOCKETSCREW (D)
ON THEPRESSERBAR HOLDER [E),
3. ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
(C) TO 6.0 MM (024").
4, TIGHTENTHE SETSCREW (D) SECURELY,
NOTE: WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (D). MAKE SURE THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A)
RUNSPARALLEL WtHT THEFEEDDOG
(
t
(0
6 MM
%
CB)
(F) FEEDDOG SUTS
jl i I
i I I I
,' _ _ SHOULD BE PARALLEL
ii i I
I I I I
12

SEWING MACHINE DIV20 MODEL 385. 18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWISE WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN
ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST ITAS FOLLOWS:
(filE NEEDLE SHOULD STARTSWINGING WHEN 2 (0,08") TO 3MM (012") ABOVE THE
NEEDLEPLATE,)
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1, REMOVE THETOP COVER (SEEP,6), SETTHE PATTERNSELECTORDiAL AT"
2_
3
4_
5,
"AND
SELECTTHEMAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH,
LOOSEN THETWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWSON THEUPPERSHAFTWORM,
WHILE HOLDING THE UPPERSHAFT WORM IN PLACE, CAREFULLY TURN THEBALANCE
WHEELAND ADJUST SO THAT LATERALNEEDLESWING STARTSFROM A POSITION
2MM (0,08") TO 3MM (0,12") ABOVE THENEEDLEPLATEIN RIGHT OUTFLOW,
TIGHTENTHETWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWSON THEUPPERSHAFTWORM
ATTACH THE TOP COVER (UNIT),
NOTE: FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER (UNIT). SEE TO
PAGE 2 AFTER ADJUSTMENT OF THE TIMING OF LATERAL NEEDLE SWING,
MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT
WORM AND THEOTHER GEAR AND THATSMOOTH ROTATION ISOBTAINED
HEXAGONAL
SOCKET SCREW
GEAR
UPPER SHAFT
WORM
THEBACKLASH THEBACKLASH
tSDECREASED ISINCREASED
(NOTE} ©
_MAKE SURE THE WORM DOSE
NOT MOVE SIDEWISE, WHEN
TURNING THEUPPERSHAFT
OTHERWISE, THE BACKLASH
BETWEENTHEWORM AND GEAR
WILL CHANGE
i : I- 2-3MM
:_(RIGHT OUTFLOW STARTPOSITION)
13

SEWING MACHINE DIV,20 MODEL 385, 18630890
MECHANICAL
STRAIGHT STITCHING
TO CHECK:
1.
2o
3.
ADJUSTMENT
SETTHESTITCHWIDTH DIAL AT" 0 *AND THESTITCHSELECTORAT >
TURN THE HAND WHEEL BY HAND,
THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO SIDE AT THIS SETTING,
SELECTEDPATrERN
_ WIDTH
STITCHWIDTH DIAL
14

SEWINGMACHINEDIVe20 MODEL385,18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1, REMOVE THETOP COVER. (SEEP.6)
2_ LOOSEN SETSCREW (A).
3, MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG
MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HAND WHEEL TOWARD YOU,
4, TIGHTENSETSCREW (A) SECURELY.
15

SEWINGMACHINEDiV,20 MODEL385.18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
It SETTHESTITCHWIDTH DIAL TO" 0" AND THESTITCHSELECTORAT ,
2, RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
3, DROP THE FEEDDOGS,
4. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLEPLATEAND LOWER THEPRESSERFOOT,
5_ LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINT (A) ON A PIECE OF PAPER BY TURNING
HAND WHEEL,
6. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION
7, TURNTHESTITCHWIDTH DIAL TO 6,5,
8. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS (B) AND (C) ON THE PIECE OF
PAPER BY TURNING THE HAND WHEEL,
9THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A-8 AND A-C SHOULD BE EQUAL.
SELECTED PATTERN
[_ WIDTH
STITCH WIDTH DIAL
BAC
16

SEWING MACHINE DtV.20 MODEL 385, ]8630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1 OPEN THE FACE COVER AND LOOSEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D)_
2 MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER (E) EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE DISTANCES
A TO B AND A TO C BECOME EQUAL.
3, TIGHTENHEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D) SECURELY,
(D)
BAC
17

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385 18630890
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRETCH STITCH BALANCE
TO CHECK:
I. SET THE STITCH SELECTOR AT
2,
3
4.
STITCH LENGTH DIAL AT STRE'rCH STITCH
AND STRETCHSTITCHADJUSTERAT ,-91,
PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND LOWER THE PRESSER
FOOT,
TURN THE HAND WHEEL TO MARK NEEDLE POINTS ON THE PAPER.
THE NEEDLE SHOULD PENETRATE THE SAME HOLES IN FORWARD AND REVERSE
DIRECTION WHILE TURNING THE HAND WHEEL TOWARDS YOU,
II1
III _ LENGTH
II1
SELECTEDPATTERN STITCHLENGTHDIAL
18