Kenmore 385.12612090 User manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 385. 12612090

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other)_
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet onty one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install
the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."
"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models
385.1148x x x, 385.1158x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.1258x x x, 385.1268x x x,
385.12612x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.t2710x x x, 385.12714x x x,
385.12712x x x, 385.17622x x x, 385.11608× × x, 385.12814x x × and 385.12014x x x.
xxx - represents numbers 000 through 999_"
(For U.S.A. market only) 100-316-005

IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed onty for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
DA NGER- Toreduce the risk of electric shock:
1.
2,
3.
4.
An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
Always unplug before relampmg. Replace bulb with same type rated
15 Watts.
Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug
_mmed_ate|y.
Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub
or sink, Do not place _n or drop into water or other liquid.
WAR NING- Toreduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,
or injury to persons.
1. Do not aNow to be used as a toy, Close attention is necessary when this
appliance is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for _ts intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
this manual.
3, Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it Is not
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or serwce
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked, Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from
accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening,
6.' Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray} products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off "'O") position, then remove
plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
cord.
10. Keep fingers away from ale moving parts, Special care is required
around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
12.
13.
14.
t5.
Do not use bent needles.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
_t may deflect the needle causing it to break,
Sw_tch the sewing machine off _,"0") when making any adjustment In
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needte, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
A_ways unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE iNSTRUCTIONS

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested m a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are gwen on threading, tension adjustments, cleamng, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Adwce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retai| Store,
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, atways mention
the model number and serial number when you inqu_re.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record _n space provided befow the model number and seNal
number of this appliance. The modei number and serlaf number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3of
thts booklet,
Model No. 385. Seriat No.
Retain these numbers for future referencm
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

SECTION
SECTION
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
2.
APortable Case or. Cabinet is Available ............ 2
Locate and Identify the Parts .............. 2_3
Identify the Accessories ........................ 3
SECTION 3.
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ....................... 4_6
• Plug m the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 4
•Foot Control Use ......................... 4
• Setting Spool Pin .................. 5
oAdjust the Presser Foot Lever ............... 5
• Thread Cutter ........................... 5
Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table .... 6
•Accessory Storage Box .................... 6
eChange the Presser Foot ................. 6
Choose Your NeedEe and Thread ............ 6_7
- To Change Your Needle ................. 6
oCheck Your Needle .................... 7
oFabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 7
Prepare the Bobbin ....................... 8_9
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 8
• Wind the Bobbin ..................... 8_9
oInsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ............ 9
Prepare Your Top Thread ............... 10_11
w Thread Your Needle .................... 10
•Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... 11
Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 12_13
Stitch Selector ....................... 14
Stitch Length Control ................... 14
Adjusting Stretch Stttch Balance ............ 15
Reverse Stitch Control ..................... 15
Starting To Sew ..................... 16
LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches .................. 17_18
o Straight St_itch ................... 17
a Use the Seam Guides ................. 17
e Turn a Square Corner .............. 17
Use the Darning PIate .................... 18
• Topstitehing ...................... 18
• Left Needle Position ..................... 18
Darning ........................ I9
Straight Stretch ........................ 19
Zigzag Stitches .......................... 20_26
oBasic Zigzag ......................... 20
•Satin Stitch ....................... 21
• Applique ............................. 22
•Bar Tacking .................... 22
• Sew a Button ........................ 23
Overcasting Stitch .................... 24
•Rick-Rack Stretch ..................... 24
• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 25
eSerg]ng or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 25
oThree-Step Zigzag ......................... 26
Lace Work ....................... 26
Blind Hemming .......................... 27
Buttonholes ........................... 28_29
Sew in a Zipper ........................ 30"-31
Shell Stitching ......................... 32
Smocking ............................ 32
Elastic Stretch Stitch .................. 33
8ox Stitching .......................... 33
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When .................. 34_35
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ................. 36
Cleaning the Machine ................... 36_37
• Clean the Feed Dogs .................... 36
Clean the Shuttle Race .................. 37
Oiling the Machine ....................... 38
oOil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the
Arm Cover Plate .................... 38
•Oil the Underside .................... 38
PARTS LIST ............................... 39
INDEX ................................ 40

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
APortable Caseor Cabinet is Available
A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option . . _buy a Carrying Case.. then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where,
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc
Top Thread Tension Controt
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
Upper Thread Guide
Shuttle Cover
Extension Table
{Accessory storage box)
Thread Spoo! Pin
Bobbin Winding Spindle
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Control
Stitch Selector

Arm Cover Plate
Hand Wheel
Auto Clutch Knob
Light and
Power Switch
Connecto£
/
\
Foot Control
Needle Clamp Screw
Carrying Handte
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
_,Nomenciature Plate
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Identify the Accessories
Bobbin /Lint brush
Darning p_
Straight
stitch toot
Satinstitchtoo___! _
_ Buttonhole opener
_La[_e screw driver
_Small screw d rwer
buttonhole toot /
Zipper toot

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
•Pluginthe MachineandSwitchon the Power
NOTE:
Power supply pIug
Machine
plug
................... 4
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch ts
OFF,
Check your outtetto be sure it is a 110to120
Volt AC outlet,
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
plug connector, as shown, tt will only fit one
way.
3. insert the power supply plug into the outfet.
light
4,
Power switch
Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
llght/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
Foot Control Use
!
Foot contro_
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE: The foot control is sensltive and
wilt increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Setting Spool Pin
t
Spool pin
The spool pm Js used for hotding the spool
of thread in order to feed thread to the
machine,
To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down
for storage.
Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
Normal up
poslT_on
High posiUor
position
ip
position
Presserfoot
lever
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot,
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
•Thread Cutter
You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
Pull the threads to lengthen several inches
before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable o Accessory Storage Box
Extension Table
To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage
(for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you,
I. Grip the table with your index finger Sewing accessories are conveni*
and thumb, as shown. ently located in the box.
2. Pu_t gently to the left. The extension
table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Tabfe
(for fiat-bed sewing)
1, insert the tab and the pin into their
catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger,
gently snap in.
•Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for
the stitch you wish to sew,
To change the various presser
feet, raise the presser bar to its
highest position by lifting the
presser foot lever,
Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the
large screw driver to make
certain the foot is secure.
Choose Your Needle and Thread
= To Change Your Needle
Fiat
side
away
from
you
Needle clamp screw
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by
turning it toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-
ward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
clamp with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
with the large screwdriver from your
accessory box.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are
sewing.
In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded
needles:
Blue (11 ) ........ for stretch fabrics.
Orange (11 } ........ for lightweight fabrics.
Red (14) ........ for medium or medium-heavy
weight fabrics.
Purple (16} ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics
and decorative topstitching on these
fabrics. {This needle has a larger
thread hole for thicker topstitching
thread.)
Green (18) ....... for heavy weight fabrics and
decorative top-stitching on these
fabrics,
Replacement Kenmore needles are avialable at your nearest Sears
stores,
Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in
knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
FABRIC NEEDLE SIZE AND
COLOR THREAD SIZE RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch ]
Batlste_ Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voi_e_
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Kmts,
Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Den=m, Woo!,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
_Gabardine_ Velvets,
Leather
11.ORANGE Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mereer=zed Cotton
!4*RED Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
14-RED Mercerized Heavy-Duty
or Polyester Core/Cotton
16*PURPLE Wrap
Silk A
2--2.5
(10-12 st=robes
per mch)
2--3
(8-10 stitches
per inch)
Heavy Wmght: Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton 3
Coatmgs, Upholstery 18-GREEN Polyester Core!Cotton {8 stitches per
COttOn Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas Wrap inch}
Silk A
3--4
Decorative top-stitching 18-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist (6-8 stitches
on all types ot fabric 1B-GREEN IUse as top thread only) per Inch)
Stretch Fabric: 11-BLUE
Polyester Doubte Knits, (STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2,5
Nylon Tricot, Jersey. FABRIC Wrap (t0-12 stitches
Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per mch}
Cire Tricot
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and
be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness. 7

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Remove the extension table from
the machine by pulling it to the
left. Open the shuttle cover by
pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle to its highest positron
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
%............. J
To remove bobbin case from shut-
tle, pul! open latch of bobbin case,
Pu|l bobbin case straight out of
shuttle,
Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turmng the
clutch knob inside the hand wheel
toward you to stop the needle from
moving while you winding the
bobbin.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
•Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winding tension disc as shown.
J
Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown. Place bobbin onto bobbin winding
spindle with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
bobbin winding spindte to the right
until it clicks. Holding onto end of
thread, start machine. When bobbin is
slightly filled, snip off end of thread.
Wind thread until winder stops.
Push bobbin winding spindle to the
left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
Turn clutch knob away from you
while holding hand wheel for normal
sewing operation.
=Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown.
wise and _s coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread under tension
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3to 4
inches of thread from bobbin.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare Your Top Thread
=ThreadYour Needle
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show pfaces where the thread
loops and then is pulled tight.
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you,
Raise presser foot lever.
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring hofder.
3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left,
4. Draw thread down and slip it into needle bar thread guide.
5. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
I0

SECTION2. PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
,= Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
!
1, Raise presser foot lever. Hold top
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheet toward you one complete
turn.
2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
top thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
1. is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle.;
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4. ts thread from shuttle tangled?
5. |s bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
6, Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
tl

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Top side of |abnc
thread
thread
Setting mark
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
Choose the Correct Tension:
The best tension will depend on;
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
the number of fabric layers
the type of stitch
The top thread
_s [oo loose,
Top.ida
of fa
The top thread
appears on the
underside of the
fabric.
Tension ts too loose:
The top thread shows through the
bottom of the fabric. The bottom side
of the stitch wilt feel bumpy.
The top thread
IS too tight
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surface of the
taboc.
J
Tension is too tight:
The bobbin thread will come through
the top of the fabric. The top side of
the stitch will feel bumpy.
t2

SECTION2, PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top
tension.
Top tension Top tension
Too Tight Too Loose
Top slde of Fabric Top slde of Fabric
Just Right
Top s_de of Fabric
Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric
Too Tight: Too Loose: Just Right:
--- Corner ot each ---- The top thread MiMmize the amount
zigzag will pull will loop through ot top thread visible on
together on the bottom s_de ot the bottom side ot
top side of fabrics, tabrlc and will be fabric without causing
pulled almost excessive .puckering or
together, causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top s_de, Results vary
with fabrrc0 thread and
sewing conditions.
13

SECTION2. PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
StitchSelector
/Setting mark
/
Stitch Selector \
t4
I _. i 1
-z_ €l 1
N JJg J JNN J J
Stitch Se|ecter
The stitch selector control not only determines the
stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for
regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches.
The different types of stitches are designated by color.
Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are orange,
Stretch Stitches are yellow.
Buttonhole Settings are blue.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure
your needle is up and out of fabric when
adjusting this control
Stitch Length Control
/Se_ing mark
Stitch Length \\
t¢ L_____J \\
o
EJ t
Stitch Length Control
0 1 2 3 4
'!
tting mark
The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch
stitches setting.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch.
"0" means no feed.
Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter
the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length
control,
!4

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
_Setti mark
st.ohLoo rh; '",
t L__J \
t\
__ \' ' I cI /
Stitch Length C__
J
To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at
position.
In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should
be m the detent position between S and L (Tposition)
for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric
used, you may need to adjust this control to match
forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion
stitches.
To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly
toward "S" To lengthen, turn toward "L"
L • T • S
Smoothing stretch
Rickrack stretch
SECTION 2.
Reverse Stitch Control
¢
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
To reverse stitch, hold down this control during
sewi ng.
Release to sew forward again.
15

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Starting To Sew
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessoNes provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the poinl_o It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently, Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend todull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness, Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam,
5, Run the machine at a slow even speed, The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine wilf sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam,
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently w_th your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabnc in such away that the normal feeding is altered,
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you,
16