Kenmore 385.16221300 User manual

SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385.16221300
JULY, 2003

CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS ............................................................................... 1
WHAT TO DO WHEN .......................................................................................................... 2-4
THREADING OF MACHINE ............... ................................................................................. 5-6
SERVICEACCESS
FACE COVER .................................................................................................... 7
TOP COVER ....................................................................................................... 7
BASE PLATE ...................................................................................................... 8
BED COVER ....................................................................................................... 8
BELT COVER ..................................................................................................... 9
FREE ARM COVER ........................................................................................... 9
FRONT COVER .................................................................................................. 10
REAR PANEL ..................................................................................................... 11
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION ................................................................................................... 12
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT ..................................................... 13
NEEDLE SWING ................................................................................................ 14
STRAIGHT STITCHING ..................................................................................... 15, 16
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING ................................................................ 17, 18
STRETCH STITCH BALANCE ........................................................................... 19, 20
FEED DOGHEIGHT .............................................................................................. 21,22
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ...................................................................................... 23, 24
NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE TIMING ........................................................................ 25, 26
NEEDLE CLEARANCE TO SHU'I-rLE ............................................................... 27
BACKLASH (LOWER SHAFT GEAR) ................................................................ 28
BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE ................................................................... 29, 30
NEEDLE POSITION .................. _........................................................................ 31, 32
ZERO FEEDING ................................................................................................. 33, 34
BASIC NEEDLE POSITION ............................................................................... 35
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (1) .......................................................................... 36
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION (2) .......................................................................... 37
REPLACEMENT AND ADJUSTMENT OF NEEDLE THREADER PLATE ........ 38
MOTOR BELT TENSION ................................................................................... 39
OILING ............................................................................................................................ 40
WIRING OF TERMINAL BLOCK ........................................................................................ 41
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ............................................................................................ 42
V1.0

LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Upper ThreadGuide
Take-upLever _.
Top Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Threader
Needle Plate
Hook Cover Plate
Spool Pin Bobbin Winding Spindle
Stitch Width Control
Stitch Length Control
Stitch Width Setting Display
eStitch Control
Hook Cover Plate Release Button Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)
Buttonhole Pitch Balance Adjusting Lever
Buttonhole Lever
Presser Foot Lever
Stretch Stitch Adjuster
Power Switch
Machine Socket
Drop Feed Lever
Nomenclature Plate
Presser Foot
Thumb Screw
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp Snap-on Button

WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION
1. SKIPPING
STITCHES
2. FABRIC NOT
MOVING
CAUSE
1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED
PROPERLY.
2. NEEDLE IS BENTORWORN.
3. INCORRECTLY THREADED
4. NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC BEING SEWN.
5. SEWING ON STRETCH
FABRIC
6. PRESSER FOOT PRESSUREi
IS TOO WEAK.
7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT
8. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO SHUTTLE TIMING
9. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO SHUTTLE CLEARANCE
1. PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
IS TOO WEAK.
2. INCORRECT F.D. HEIGHT
3. F.D. IS IN DOWN POSITION
4. THREAD ON BOTi-OM SIDE
OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.
5. FEED DOG TEETH ARE
WORN.
HOW TO FIX
INSERT THE NEEDLEPROPERLY.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
RETHREAD.
USE THE RECOMMENDED
SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD.
USE A #11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE.
ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR
LEVEL TO MAKE THE
PRESSURE STRONGER.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT'.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE TO SHUFFLE TIMING".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUFFLE."
ADJUST THE PRESSER BAR
LEVELTO MAKETHE
PRESSURE STRONGER.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "FEED DOG
HEIGHT."
RAISE THE F.D. LEVEL.
MAKE SURE TO BRING
BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN
THREAD UNDER THE FOOT
WHEN STARTING SEWING.
CHANGE THE FEED DOG.
REFERENCE
P.22, 23
P.24, 25
P.26
P.20, 21

CONDITION
3.BREAKING
UPPER
THREAD
4.BREAKING
BOBBIN
THREAD
5.NEEDLE
BREAKS
CAUSE
1.INITIALSEWINGSPEEDIS
TOOFAST.
2.THREADPATHIS
INCORRECT.
3.NEEDLEISBENTORDULL.
4.UPPERTHREADTENSIONIS
TOOSTRONG.
5.NEEDLESIZEIS
INAPPROPRIATEFOR
FABRIC.
! 6.NEEDLEEYEISWORN.
7.NEEDLEHOLEINNEEDLE
PLATEISWORNORBURRED.
1.INCORRECTLYTHREADED
BOBBIN.
2.TOOMUCHTHREADIS
ONTHEBOBBIN.
3.LINTISSTUCKINSIDETHE
BOBBINHOLDER.
4. THREAD QUALITY IS
TOO LOW.
5. THREAD IS JAMMING
AROUND THE BOBBIN.
1. NEEDLE ISHITTING THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
SHUTTLE.
4. THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE
THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING
IT,OR THE NEEDLE zIGZAGS
WHILE IN FABRIC.
5. FABRICISBEINGPULLEDTOO
STRONGLY WHILE SEWING.
HOW TO FIX
START WITH MEDIUM SPEED.
USE THE PROPER THREAD
PATH.
REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
ADJUST UPPER THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY.
USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE
FOR FABRIC AND THREAD
IN USE.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
REPAIR THE HOLE OR
REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.
THREAD BOBBIN CORRECTLY.
ADJUSTTHE POSITION OF
STOPPER.
CLEAN THE SHUTTLE.
CHANGETO A HIGHERQUALITY
SEWING THREAD.
CLEAR OUT THE JAMMING
THREAD.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
POSITION."
ICHANGETHE NEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
CLEARANCE TO SHUTTLE."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
SWING."
GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY
WHILE SEWING.
IREFERENCE
P.30,31
P.26
P.13
3

CONDITION
6.NOISY
OPERATION
7.DEFORMATION
PA'B'ERN
8.IMPROPER
BUTTONHOLE
RESULTS
CAUSE HOWTOFIX REFERENCE
P.27
1.BACKLASHBETWEEN
SHUTTLEHOOKGEARAND
LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO
GREAT.
2.LOWERSHAFTGEARIS
LOOSE.
3.INAPPROPRIATEBELT
TENSION.
4.NOTENOUGHOIL
5.UPPERSHAFTISLOOSE.
1.INAPPROPRIATEFEED
BALANCE.
2.INAPPROPRIATEZIGZAG
SYNCHRONIZATION.
3. UPPER THREAD TENSION
IS TOO STRONG.
1. BUTTONHOLE STITCH
BALANCEISNOT CORRECT.
2. IMPROPER SIZE ON AUTO
BUTTONHOLE
3. CHANGING TO BAR TACK
ISTOO EARLYOR WILL NOT
WORK.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BACKLASH
(LOWER SHAFT GEAR)."
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "MOTOR
BELT TENSION."
OIL ALL MOVING PARTS.
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
SWING."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "TOP TENSION."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BUTTONHOLE
STITCH BALANCE,"
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION (1)."
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "BUTTONHOLE
FUNCTION (2)."
P.37
P.18. 19
P.13
P.28, 29
P.35
P.36

THREADING OF MACHINE
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
DOTTED LINES SHOW THE PLACES WHERE THE THREAD LOOPS AND IS THEN
PULLED TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE
HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE THE SPOOL ON A PIN WITH THE THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE
SPOOL.
1. DRAW THE THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.
2. HOLDING THE THREAD TAUT WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND, DRAW THE THREAD DOWN
INTO THE TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THE THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT
TO LEFT.
4. PULL THE THREAD TO THE LEFT, AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD
GUIDE.
5. THREAD THE NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THE THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS
FOR EASIER NEEDLE THREADING.
5

F[]
[]
[]
[]
@
Automatic Needle Threader
[] Lower the presser foot. Depress the needle
threader knob as far as itwill go.
The hook comes out through the needle eye
from behind,
(!) Needlethreaderknob
(_) Hook
[] Draw the thread down around the threader
guide and under the hook.
(_) Threader guide
(_ Hook
[] Release the threader knobslowly while
holding the thread end with your hand.
A loop of the thread ispulled up through the
needle eye.
[] Remove the loop from the threader and pull
out the thread end from the needle eye.
NOTE:
The automatic threader works well with the
threads #50-100 and needles #11-16, the
blue tipped needle as weft.

SERVICE ACCESS
FACECOVER
(B)
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVE THE SETSCREWS (B).
3. TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.
TOP COVER
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVE THE SETSCREWS (B) AND (C).
3. TAKE THE TOP COVER (D) OFF.
7

BASE PLATE SERVICE ACCESS
(A)
.(A)
(B)
o
1. REMOVE THE FOUR SETSCREWS (A).
2. REMOVETHE BASE PLATE (B).
BED COVER
1.
2. REMOVE THE TWO SETSCREWS (D).
REMOVE THE BED COVER (E).
* WHEN YOU REPLACE THE BED COVER, SET THE FEED DROP LEVER (F) IN
THE LEFT POSITION.

SERVICE ACCESS
BELT COVER
BELT COVER
LATCH
_(A)
_/ (B)
iSTITCH SELECTOR
PULL OUT THE STITCH SELECTOR. LOOSEN THE SETSCREW (A) AND REMOVE THE
SETSCREW (B). PULL THE RIGHT SIDE OF BELT COVER IN THE DIRECTION OF THE
ARROW, AS ILLUSTRATED AND TAKE THE LATCH OFF, AND THEN REMOVE THE
BELT COVER.
WHEN YOU REATTACH THE BELT COVER, SET THE PROJECTION INTO THE GROOVE
ON THE FRONT COVER.
FREEARM COVER
NEEDLE PLATE
j
(B) FREE ARM COVER
1. REMOVE THE SETSCREW (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE.
2. REMOVE THE BED COVER (SEE PAGE 7).
3. REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND THE FREE ARM COVER.
9

SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER
®(c)
(c)
(F)
(E)
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), AND THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8).
3. REMOVE THE SETSCREWS (A) AND (B).
4. LOOSEN SETSCREWS (C) AND (D), THEN REMOVE THE FRONT COVER (E).
5. PULL THE FRONT COVER OFF THE LATCH (F) OF THE REAR COVER.
6. REMOVE THE LOWER PART OF THE THREAD GUIDE (G).
* TO REPLACE, FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE IN REVERSE.
10

SERVICE ACCESS
REAR PANEL
PRESSER FOOT LEVER TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER
PART FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
J
REAR PANEL UNIT
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. REMOVE THE TOP COVER UNIT (SEE P.6), THE BELT COVER (SEE P.8) AND
THE FRONT COVER (SEE P.9).
3. REMOVE THE SETSCREWS (A) ,(B), AND (C), AND LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS
(D,E AND F).
4. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER, AND PULL AWAY THE REAR PANEL UNIT
FROM THE MACHINE FRAME. TWIST AND REMOVE THE ARM COVER PART
FROM THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
* WHEN YOU REATTACH THE REAR PANEL, PUT THE "WINDOW" ON THE PLASTIC
PANEL OVER THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER, AND THEN REPLACE THE SIX SCREWS.
11

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE TENSION DIAL AT "4", AND RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT.
2. PASS THE THREAD (A) BETWEEN THE DISCS, AND DRAW THE THREAD (A) DOWN
AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER AS IN FIG. 1.
3. LOWER THE PRESSER FOOT, AND BRING THE THREAD (A) UP.
4. THE TOP TENSION SHOULD BE BETWEEN 75 AND 90g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD
(A) UP IN THE DIRECTION OF (B).
* USE POLYESTER SEWING THREAD #50 (WHITE).
* IF IT IS NOT WITHIN THE ABOVE LIMITS, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT (SEE P.9).
2. PULL THE SPRING (C) AWAY FROM THE LEAD SCREW (D).
3. IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO LOOSE, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION
OF (E).
IF THE TOP TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, TURN THE LEAD SCREW (D) IN THE DIRECTION
OF (F).
(c)
(O)
TOP TENSION CONTROL
SET'AT "4"
TOT' %')Cl
TOLOOS NIL
(o)
PULL THIS WAY
(B)
12

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT
TO CHECK:
1. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B).
2. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (C)
SHOULD BE 6.0 MM (0.24").
*IF THIS IS NOT THE CASE, ADJUST AS FOLLOWS.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER.
2. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (B), AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET
SCREW (D) ON THE PRESSER BAR HOLDER (E).
3. ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
(C) TO 6.0 MM (0.24").
4. TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (D) SECURELY.
NOTE: WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SETSCREW (D), MAKE SURE THAT BOTH SIDES OF
THE ZIGZAG FOOT (A) ARE PARALLEL WITH THE FEED DOG SLITS.
CE.,_
\
f-
I
I"
(c)
I 6MM
(F) FEED DOG SLITS
_SHOULD BE PARALLEL
13

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
IF THE NEEDLE BAR MOVES SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC IN
ZIGZAG STITCHING, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
(THE NEEDLE SHOULD START SWINGING 2 (0.08") TO 3 MM (0.12") ABOVE THE
NEEDLE PLATE.)
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6), SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT" _ ",
AND SELECT THE MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH.
2. LOOSEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM.
3. WHILE HOLDING THE UPPER SHAFT WORM IN PLACE, CAREFULLY TURN THE
HANDWHEEL AND ADJUST IT SO THAT THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING STARTS FROM
A POSITION 2 MM (0.08") TO 3 MM (0.12") ABOVE THE NEEDLE PLATE IN RIGHT
OUTFLOW.
4. TIGHTEN THE TWO HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREWS ON THE UPPER SHAFT WORM.
5. ATTACH THETOP COVER (UNIT).
NOTE: FOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE TOP COVER (UNIT), REFER TO
PAGE 2, AFTER THE TIMING ADJUSTMENT OF THE LATERAL NEEDLE SWING,
MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO BACKLASH BETWEEN THE UPPER SHAFT
WORM AND THE OTHER GEAR, AND THAT A SMOOTH ROTATION IS
OBTAINED.
HEXAGONAL
GEAR
UPPER SHAFT
WORM
,,, -,
THE BACKLASH THE BACKLASH
IS DECREASED. IS INCREASED.
©
(NOTE)
MAKE SURE THE WORM DOES
NOT MOVE SIDEWAYS WHEN
TURNING THE UPPER SHAFT.
OTHERWISE, THE BACKLASH
BETWEEN THE WORM AND THE
GEAR WILL CHANGE.
t
i
//////l i iv/////// _2-3 MM
i i (RIGHT OUTFLOW SEART
i,POSITION)
14

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL AT " 0 ", AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT
2. TURN THE HANDWHEEL BY HAND.
3. THE NEEDLE SHOULD NOT SWING SIDE TO THE SIDE AT THIS SEFFING.
c T
SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
15

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE TOP COVER (SEE P.6).
2. LOOSEN SETSCREW (A).
3. MOVE THE ZIGZAG WIDTH ROD (B) UNTIL THE NEEDLE CEASES ITS ZIGZAG
MOVEMENT WHEN YOU TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU.
4. RETIGHTEN SETSCREW (A) SECURELY.
(A)
(B)
16

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
1. SET THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO " 0 " AND THE STITCH SELECTOR AT
2. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
3. DROP THE FEED DOGS.
4. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER ON THE NEEDLE PLATE, AND LOWER THE PRESSER
FOOT.
5. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINT (A) ON APIECE OF PAPER BY
TURNING THE HANDWHEEL.
6. RAISE THE NEEDLE TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
7. SLIDE THE STITCH WIDTH CONTROL TO 6.5.
8. LOWER THE NEEDLE TO MARK THE NEEDLE POINTS (B AND C) ON THE PIECE OF
PAPER, BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL.
9. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN A-B AND A-C SHOULD BE EQUAL.
SELECTED PATTERN STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
BAC
17

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION OF NEEDLE SWING
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER, AND LOOSEN THE HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D).
2. MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER (E) IN EITHER DIRECTION UNTIL THE
DISTANCES ATO B, AND A TO C, BECOME EQUAL.
3. TIGHTEN HEXAGONAL SOCKET SCREW (D) SECURELY.
BAC
(o)
18