Lada Niva 4x4 User manual
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The design of the clutch is shown on fig. 3-1. The clutch release fork 11 (fig. 3-1) can be of two types: with a leaf or wire spring.
Chapter 3. Power train
Clutch
57
Fig. 3-1. Clutch assembly:
1 - bleeder; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - diaphragm spring rivet; 4 - pressure plate; 5 - clutch disc; 6 - flywheel; 7 - clutch bellhousing; 8 - bellhousing-to-flywheel bolt;
9 - gearbox input shaft; 10 - clutch release bearing assembly; 11 - clutch release fork; 12 - release fork ball socket; 13 - clutch release bearing; 14 - pressure plate thrust
flange; 15 - clutch release fork boot; 16 - clutch release fork spring; 17 - pressure plate fulcrum ring; 18 - clutch cover; 19 - clutch release fork pushrod; 20 - adjusting nut;
21 - locknut; 22 - protective cap; 23 - clutch release cylinder (slave cylinder); 24 - fork return spring; 25 - return spring bracket
Fault diagnosis
Diagnosis Remedy
Incomplete clutch release (clutch spin)
1. Excessive gaps in clutch release drive
2. Buckling of clutch disc (camming action more than 0.5 mm)
3. Roughness on clutch disc friction linings
4. Jammed rivets or broken clutch disc friction linings
5. Jammed clutch disc hub on primary shaft splines
6. Broken thrust flange-to-clutch cover connecting plates
7. Air in clutch hydraulic drive system
8. Liquid leak from hydraulic drive system through connections or dam-
aged pipelines
9. Leaking master cylinder or clutch release cylinder
10. Plugged opening in reservoir cover, causing underpressure and vac-
uum leak in cylinder through sealings
11. Vacuum leak due to fouling or wear of front sealing ring in master
cylinder
12. Skew or buckling of pressure plate
Incomplete clutch engagement (clutch slips)
1. No gaps in clutch release drive
2. Badly worn or burnt clutch disc friction linings
3. Excessive oil on clutch disc friction linings, surfaces of flywheel and
pressure plate
4. Plugged compensation port in master cylinder
5. Damaged or jammed clutch release drive
Clutch judder
1. Jammed clutch disc hub on primary shaft splines
2. Excessive oil on clutch disc friction linings, surfaces of flywheel and
pressure plate
3. Jammed clutch release drive mechanism
4. Badly worn clutch disc friction linings
5. Loose rivets on clutch disc friction linings
6. Damaged surface or buckling of pressure plate
Excessive noise at clutch release
1. Worn, damaged or dry clutch release bearing
2. Worn front bearing on gearbox primary shaft
Excessive noise at clutch engagement
1. Broken or weak damper spring
2. Broken, weak or detached clutch release fork return spring
3. Broken pressure plate-to-clutch cover connecting plates
Clutch release drive adjustment
58
1. Adjust clutch release drive
2. Straighten or replace disc
3. Renew linings or clutch disc assembly
4. Renew linings, check disc runout
5. Clean splines, apply grease ãëñ-15 or îËÓÎ-1, îËÓÎ-2. In case of badly
worn splines causing seizure, renew input shaft or clutch disc
6. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
7. Bleed system
8. Tighten connections, renew damaged components, bleed system
9. Renew sealing rings, bleed system
10. Clean opening in tank cover, bleed system
11. Clean sealing ring, replace in case of wear
12. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
1. Adjust clutch release drive
2. Renew linings or clutch disc assembly
3. Clean oily surfaces with white-spirit, remedy the situation
4. Wash cylinder and clean port
5. Rectify malfunctions causing jamming
1. Clean splines, apply grease ãëñ-15 or îËÓÎ-1, îËÓÎ-2. In case of badly
worn splines causing seizure, renew input shaft or clutch disc
2. Clean oily surfaces with white-spirit, remedy the situation
3. Replace damaged parts, rectify malfunctions causing jamming
4. Renew linings, check for damages on disc surfaces
5. Renew damaged rivets and linings, if necessary
6. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
1. Renew clutch disc assembly
2. Renew spring or secure
3. Renew clutch cover/pressure plate assembly
1. Renew bearing
2. Renew bearing
The following adjustments are carried out in the clutch
release drive:
- the 0.1-0.5 mm gap between the pushrod and the piston of the
master cylinder (see fig. 3-2) is set. This gap, necessary for comp-
lete clutch release, is adjusted by the clutch pedal limiter bolt 5. The
clearance is determined by the pedal free travel equal to 0.4-2 mm;
- the free travel of the clutch release fork pushrod, equal to 4-
5 mm, is adjusted by bolt 5 (fig. 3-3) and fixed by locknut 6. The dis-
tance of the pushrod free travel is controlled by a special pattern.
After carrying out the above described adjustments the clutch
pedal free travel should make 25-35 mm.
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system
Air in the clutch hydraulic system is indicated by incomplete
clutch release, and also by "sponginess" and "failure" of clutch
pedal.
To expel air from the hydraulic drive:
- clean the tank and the bleeder from dust and dirt;
- check the liquid level in the hydraulic system tank and top
up if necessary;
- put a hose on bleeder 9 (see fig. 3-3) of the slave cylinder
and place its lower end into a container with hydrodrive liquid (30-
50 gr);
- undo bleeder 9 by 1/2-3/4 turn, several times rapidly
depress and smoothly release the pedal until there will be no air
bubbles coming out from the hose;
- depress the pedal and fully tighten the bleeder. Remove the
hose and refit the bleeder cap.
If, despite a continuos bleeding, there are still air bubbles in
the hose, check the tightness of connections, find out if there are
cracks on tubes or leaks in places of connections. Air inleak is
possible through damaged sealing rings of the master or slave
cylinders.
During bleeding:
- the liquid level in the reservoir should be higher than the
opening of the tube connecting the reservoir with the master
cylinder;
- the end of the bleeding hose should be always dipped in liquid;
- after bleeding, top-up liquid in the reservoir to the lower
edge of the filler neck.
59
Fig. 3-2. Clutch pedal and master cylinder:
1 - pedal cluster mounting bracket; 2 - clip; 3 - clutch pedal servo spring; 4 - clutch pedal return spring; 5 - clutch pedal limiter bolt; 6 - clutch pedal; 7 - pushrod;
8 - protective cap; 9 - circlip; 10 - pushrod piston; 11 - sealing ring; 12 - master cylinder piston; 13 - inlet port; 14 - sealing ring (ring valve); 15 - piston bypass orifice;
16 - cylinder cavity; 17 - piston return spring; 18 - gasket; 19 - plug; 20 - master cylinder body; 21 - bypass (compensation) port; 22 - gasket; 23 - union; 24 - washer
Clutch assembly - removal and refitting
Removal. First remove the gearbox (see "Gearbox"). Undo the
bolts and remove the clutch cover in assembly with the pressure
plate. Do not lift this unit by holding the pressure plate thrust flange.
Refitting is a reversal of removal, providing the following:
- inspect the bearing on the crankshaft end face, if necessary
replace the bearing;
- inspect the splines on the clutch disc hub and the gearbox
input shaft, clean the splines and grease with a thin layer of
greasing ãëñ-15 or îàéã-1, îàéã-2;
- refit the clutch disc with the hub protruding part facing the gear-
box and centralise the plate against the bearing using tool A.70081,
simulating the gearbox input shaft splined end (fig. 3-4).
60
Fig. 3-3. Slave cylinder and clutch release fork:
1 - release bearing; 2 - ball pivot; 3 - clutch release fork; 4 - pushrod; 5 - adjusting bolt; 6 - locknut; 7 - return spring; 8 - plug; 9 - bleeder; 10 - cylinder body; 11 - sealing
ring; 12 - protective cap; 13 - piston; 14 - sealing; 15 - sleeve; 16 - spring; 17 - spring disc; 18 -lock ring
Clutch inspection
The inspection of the clutch is carried out on a bench, which
simulates the engine flywheel and has a metal intermediate ring
4 (fig. 3-5) with thickness of 8.2 mm simulating the clutch disc.
Having fixed the clutch cover, make four release strokes equal to
8-9 mm. The release stroke of 8 mm should correspond to the
travel of the pressure plate within 1.6-1.7 mm (permitted mini-
mum - 1.4 mm).
The distance from the rig base to the working surface of the
thrust flange friction washer should be 40-43 mm. During engine
operation due to wear of the clutch disc surfaces this size
increases. If it will reach 48 mm or the travel of the pressure plate
will be less than 1.4 mm, renew the clutch cover in assembly with
the pressure plate.
The clutch disc friction linings should be replaced at any signs
of cracks, reduction of distance between the rivet and the work-
ing surface up to 0.2 mm, and also at one-side scuffings. To
repair the clutch disc and replace the friction linings use tool
67.7822.9529 (fig. 3-6).
Flared rivets should have no breaks. The runout of the friction
lining working surface should not exceed 0.5 mm. If this value is
exceeded, straighten the disc (fig. 3-7) or replace with a new one.
Also replace the clutch disc assembly in case of cracks on the
clutch disc or the damper springs.
Master and slave cylinders - removal and refitting
First, drain working liquid. To do this, attach one end of the
hose to bleeder 9 (see fig. 3-3) on the slave cylinder, and the
other end place in a clean reservoir; unscrew bleeder 9 by 1/2-3/4
turn and depress the pedal several times until all liquid will be
removed from the hydrosystem, then disconnect the tubes
between the master and the slave cylinders, disconnect the
return spring 7, remove the pin from the pushrod end, and the
slave cylinder, having prior undone two fastening bolts.
To remove the master cylinder undo two nuts, with which it is
pinned to the pedal bracket, and disconnect the flexible hose
from the reservoir.
To refit the master and slave cylinders the above described
operations are executed in reverse order.
After filling with working liquid, bleed the system.
61
Fig. 3-4. Centering the clutch disc with tool A.70081:
1 - flywheel; 2 - clutch assembly; 3 - tool A.70081
Fig. 3-5. Clutch check:
1 - pressure plate thrust flange; 2 - central diaphragm spring; 3 - clutch disc;
4 - ring
Fig. 3-6.Replacing the clutch disc friction linings:
1 - tool 67.7851.9500; 2 - clutch disc; 3 - fixture 67.7822.9517
62
Fig. 3-8. Master cylinder components:
1 - body; 2 - sealing; 3 - plug; 4 - gasket; 5 - union; 6 - retaining washer;7 - cap;
8 - circlip; 9 - pushrod piston; 10 - sealing ring; 11 - master cylinder piston;
12 - spring
Fig. 3-7. Straightening the clutch disc
Fig. 3-9. Slave cylinder components:
1 - body; 2 - bleeder; 3 - cap; 4 - pushrod; 5 - sealing ring; 6 - piston; 7 - sealing ring; 8 - sleeve; 9 - spring; 10 - disc; 11 - lock ring
Master and slave cylinders -
dismantling, inspection, repair and reassembly
Master cylinder. Turn out plug 3 (fig. 3-8), remove protective
rubber cap 7 and circlip 8. This will allow to withdraw from the
cylinder body piston 9, sealing ring 10, floating piston 11 with
sealing ring and piston return spring 12.
Cylinder mirror and the outer surface of the piston should
have no damages or marks. The inner diameter of the cylinder
should be within the limits of 19.035-19.075 mm.
Inspect the piston return spring and replace if it has become
weak.
Renew sealing rings. Inspect the protective cap on the rear
end of the cylinder and renew in case of damage. Before reas-
sembly, accurately clean and wash all parts in brake liquid. Do
not let mineral oil, petrol, kerosine or diesel fuel to get in contact
with the parts as this may cause swelling of the rubber sealings.
After inspection, reassemble all parts of the master cylinder
in reverse order; grease all components with brake liquid or
preservation liquid çÉ-213.
Slave cylinder. Turn out plug, take off protective rubber cap
3 (fig. 3-9) together with pushrod 4, take out piston and disman-
tle it, previously having removed lock ring 11.
After dismantle, accurately wash and check all parts, as it is
specified for the master cylinder. Do not refit a damaged
pushrod.
After inspection, begin to reassemble in reverse order,
grease all parts with brake liquid.
Clutch master cylinder - bench-check
Checking the leak-proofness of the rear sealing ring.
Place the master cylinder on the test-bench (see fig. 3-10), and
ensure good sealing between the cylinder flange and the surface
of the test-bench. Connect reservoir 2 with hydraulic liquid to the
cylinder. Open the compressed air vent, with the adjusting screw
6 being open, and then slowly close the adjusting screw until all
air will be expelled from reservoir 2.
Control air pressure by the pressure gauge, it should be with-
in 0.05-0.08 MPA (0.5-0.8 kgf/cm2). If pressure is less, replace
the rear sealing ring.
Checking the leak-proofness of the front sealing ring.
Place the master cylinder on the test-bench and connect it to the
reservoir with hydro drive liquid, and with manometers (fig. 3-11).
Close manometer vent 3 and, by moving the master cylinder
pushrod, provide constant pressure of 0.2 MPA (2 kgf/cm2).
With a fixed pushrod and no liquid leaks pressure should
remain constant during 2 minutes.
Close pressure gauge vent 4 and open pressure gauge vent
3. By moving the pushrod provide constant pressure of 10 MPA
(100 kgf/cm2).
With a fixed pushrod and no liquid leaks pressure should
remain constant for no less than 2 minutes. Otherwise, replace
the front sealing ring.
63
Fig. 3-10. Checking the leak-proofness of the rear sealing ring:
1 - master cylinder; 2 - reservoir; 3 - adapter with sealing; 4 - manometer;
5 - T-connector; 6 - adjusting screw; A - air from compressor; B - air outcome
Fig. 3-11. Checking the leak-proofness of the front sealing ring:
1 - bleeding screw; 2 - vent; 3 - manometer with 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2) scale;
4 - manometer with 0.005 MPa (0.05 kgf/cm2) scale; 5 - reservoir;
6 - pushrod; 7 - master cylinder
Gearbox
The design of the gearbox is shown on fig. 3-12, 3-26, 3-34.
Fault diagnosis
Diagnosis Remedy
Noise in gearbox
1. Noise in bearings
2. Worn teeth on gears and syn-
chro units
3. Low oil level in gearbox
4. Axial shaft movement
Difficulty in engaging gears
1. Incomplete clutch release
2. Jammed gearshift lever ball-
joint
3. Deformed gearshift lever
4. Hard movement of fork rods
(burrs, dirty rod sockets, detent
seizure)
5. Hard movement of sleeve on
hub when splines get dirty
6. Deformed gearshift forks
Jumps out of gear or incomplete clutch engagement
1. Worn rod balls and sockets,
weak detent spring
2. Worn synchro unit baulk rings
3. Broken synchro unit spring
4. Worn teeth on synchro unit
sleeve or synchro unit crown
5. Crushed hub short teeth
Oil leak
1. Worn oil seals on input and
output shafts
2. Loose fitting of gearbox cov-
ers, damaged sealings
3. Loose fitting of clutch housing
to transmission casing
Removal and refitting
Removal. Place the vehicle over an inspection pit or on a lift,
put blocks under front wheels and raise the rear axle from one or
two sides. Let off the handbrake and place the gearshift lever in
neutral. Disconnect the wires from the battery.
Take out the front floor mat and the gaiters from the transfer-
and gearbox levers. Remove the aperture covers and sealings.
Unscrew the handles from the transfer box levers.
Push downward lever rod 27 (see fig. 3-12) and with the help
of a screwdriver or any other pointed tool take out the retaining
sleeve 31 from the groove on the lever rod; remove the rod.
Disconnect the brackets that are fixing pipes and mufflers in
the rear part of the vehicle, and then the muffler pipe from the
front exhaust pipe. Disconnect the exhaust pipe clip and remove
the pipe downward.
Undo the lower bolts of the clutch bellhousing cover plate.
Disconnect the "ground" wires from the clutch bellhousing and
the wires from the tail light switch.
Unhook the return spring 1 (fig. 3-13) from the clutch release
fork 5 and take pin 4 out from pushrod 6. Disconnect the slave
cylinder 8 from the clutch bellhousing. Thus, cylinder 8 connect-
ed to the master cylinder hose, remains on the vehicle, what
excludes loosing brake liquid and necessity of the subsequent
bleeding of the clutch release hydraulic drive.
Put clip 2 (A.70025) on the flexible coupling 3 (fig. 3-14) and
tighten. This will help in subsequent removal and refitting of the
flexible coupling. Undo nuts 1 and, by turning the layshaft,
remove the bolts that are fastening the flexible coupling 3 to the
flange of the gearbox output shaft.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer
drive unit on the transfer box.
Disconnect the shaft flanges of the front and rear axles drive
from the flanges of the transfer box shafts. Lower and move aside
the axle drive shafts.
Undo the bolts that are fastening the transfer box brackets to
the car body and remove it together with the propeller shaft.
Using a socket spanner 02.7812.9500 undo the bolts fasten-
ing the starter motor to the clutch bellhousing and release it.
Undo the clutch bellhousing cover plate bolts.
Disconnect the engine rear mounting from the crossmember
4 (fig. 3-14), and then remove the crossmember while supporting
the gearbox from below.
Place a jack or other suitable support under the transmission cas-
ing. Using a socket spanner A.55035 undo the fastening bolts and
remove the gearbox together with the clutch bellhousing by moving it
to the rear part of the vehicle so that to take out the gearbox input
shaft from the front bearing and from the clutch disc hub.
ATTENTION. So that not to deform the clutch straps, do
not rest the end of the input shaft on the clutch diaphragm
spring flange when removing or refitting the gearbox.
Refitting the gearbox is a reversal of removal. Before refit-
ting, apply a thin layer of greasing ãëñ-15 (ãàíéã-24) on the
spline end of the input shaft and centralize the clutch disc using
tool A.70081 (see fig. 3-4).
64
1. Renew damaged bearings
2. Replace worn parts
3. Top up oil. Rectify cause of oil
leak
4. Renew bearings or securing
components
1. Replace oil seals
2. Tighten nuts (see torque in
Appendix) or renew seals
3. Tighten nuts
1. See. subsec."Clutch"
2. Clean ball contact surfaces
3. Rectify deformation or renew
lever
4. Repair or renew worn compo-
nents
5. Clean components
6. Straighten forks or renew
1. Renew damaged components
2. Renew baulk ring
3. Renew spring
4. Renew sleeve or gear
5. Renew synchro hub
65
Fig. 3-12. Gearbox:
1 - input shaft; 2 - front cover with guide sleeve; 3 - input shaft oil seal; 4 - spring washer; 5 - bearing set collar; 6 - gearbox housing; 7 - breather; 8 - output shaft needle
bearing; 9 - synchro spring thrust washer; 10 - 4th speed synchro unit crown; 11 - 3rd/4th synchro unit sleeve; 12 - 3rd/4th synchro unit hub; 13 - circlip; 14 - baulk ring;
15 - synchro unit spring; 16 - 3rd speed synchro unit crown and gear; 17 - 2nd speed synchro unit crown and gear; 18 - output shaft; 19 - 1st speed synchro unit crown
and gear; 20 - 1st gear bush; 21 - output shaft idler bearing; 22 - idler bearing lock plate; 23 - flange; 24 - bellows; 25 - spring; 26 - gear shift lever; 27 - lever rod;
28 - damper rubber pad; 29 -grommet; 30 - distance washer; 31 - retaining sleeve; 32 - collar; 33 - cap washer; 34 - ball socket; 35 - gearshift lever housing; 36 - guide
plate; 37 - driveline coupling flange; 38 - nut; 39 - centering ring oil seal; 40 - centering ring; 41 - circlip; 42 - output shaft rear bearing oil seal; 43 - output shaft rear bear-
ing; 44 - distance washer; 45 - oil deflector washer; 46 - 5th/reverse gear unit; 47 - 5th synchro unit hub; 48 - reverse idler gear; 49 - intermediate shaft rear bearing;
50 - intermediate shaft 1st speed gear; 51 - 1st/2nd synchro sleeve; 52 - intermediate shaft 2nd speed gear; 53 - intermediate shaft 3rd speed gear; 54 - filler and check
orifice plug; 55 - intermediate shaft; 56 - intermediate shaft constant mesh gear; 57 - intermediate shaft front bearing; 58 - intermediate shaft bearing clamping washer;
59 - clamping washer bolt; 60 - input shaft constant mesh gear; 61 - input shaft rear bearing; 62 - circlip
Dismantling and reassembly
Dismantling. Wash the gearbox and place it on a bench.
Drain oil and remove the bottom cover with the lining.
Remove the clutch release fork, and the coupling in assem-
bly with the bearing and the spring from the guide sleeve in the
gearbox front cover.
Remove the clutch bellhousing with the lining and the front
cover together with the oil seal and spring washer (see fig. 3-15).
Turn out the rear light switch, take care not to deform the
housing.
66
Fig. 3-13. Clutch release drive:
1 - fork return spring; 2 - locknut; 3 - adjusting nut; 4 - cotter pin; 5 - clutch
release fork; 6 - pushrod; 7 - slave cylinder fastening bolt; 8 - slave cylinder
Fig. 3-14. Flexible coupling between the propeller shaft and the gearbox:
1 - propeller shaft flange-to-flexible coupling fastening nuts; 2 - clamp A.70025;
3 - flexible coupling; 4 - rear engine mounting crossmember
Fig. 3-15. Clutch bellhousing, view from inside.
The black arrows point to the gearbox-to-clutch bellhousing fastening nuts; the
white arrow points to the opening in the front cover for oil outflow from the trans-
mission casing to avoid clutch disc contamination.
Fig. 3-17. Removing the coupling centering ring from the propeller shaft
Fig. 3-16. Removing the circlip
Turn out the 3rd/4th gearshift fork fastening bolt. Install lock
41.7816. 4068 on the input shaft or simultaneously engage both
gears. This will prevent the turning of the input, output and inter-
mediate shafts and will allow to do the subsequent operations on
dismantling.
ATTENTION. Since 1997, on the rear end of the gearbox
output shaft the design of the following parts was changed:
- instead of a metal centering ring 26 (see fig. 3-31) and
circlip 1, a rubber centering bush is installed;
- instead of sealing 25 with spring 24, a sealing without a
spring is installed;
- lock washer 22 is replaced with a spring washer;
- nut 23 is sealed with ìÉ-9 or ìÉ-10.
Remove circlip from the gearbox output shaft end (fig. 3-16).
Unbend the lock washer, undo the nut by several turns to
move the coupling centering ring, and again turn in the nut. Using
a puller A.40006/1 with tool A.40005/4 remove the flexible cou-
pling centering ring from the output shaft end (fig. 3-17).
Remove the coupling centering ring seal with spring from the
output shaft end, undo the nut and using tool A.40005/3/9B/9C
remove the flexible coupling flange (fig. 3-18).
Before removing the rear cover, place the gearshift lever in
neutral position, undo the gear selector mechanism fastening
nuts and remove the gearshift lever (fig. 3-19) in assembly with
the selector mechanism. One of the cover fastening nuts is
undone from the inside of the transmission casing with the bottom
cover being removed. When removing the rear cover it is neces-
sary to move it not only backwards, but also to turn it to exclude
hitting the fifth speed/reverse gear unit.
After removing the output shaft rear bearing inner ring 43
(see fig. 3-12) and distance sleeve 44, loosen the cover fastening
bolts 5 (fig. 3-20) and undo bolts 2 and 4 that are securing the fifth
speed/reverse gear unit. Remove the oil deflector washer 45 (see
fig. 3-12), then bush 1 (fig. 3-21) from the fifth speed gear and
take out rod 1 (fig. 3-22) from fork 2. Thus, distance bush 3 is
removed from the rod. Then remove the gear unit 4 from the inter-
mediate shaft splines.
67
Fig. 3-18. Removing the coupling flange using tool A.40005/3/9B/9C:
1 - flexible coupling flange; 2 - tool A.40005/3; 3 - tool A.40005/3 strap; 4 - tool-
to-flange fastening bolts
Fig. 3-19. Removing the gear selector mechanism
Fig. 3-20. Undoing the fastening bolts of the gear unit and the
5th/reverse fork:
1 - reverse idler gear; 2 - gear unit fastening bolt; 3 - fork rod; 4 - fork fastening
bolt; 5 - detent cover
68
Fig. 3-24. Removing the 5th synchro unit hub/reverse driven gear:
1 - intermediate shaft; 2 - reverse driven gear; 3 - reverse idler gear shaft;
4 - 5th synchro unit hub; 5 - output shaft; 6 - 1st/2nd selector rod; 7 - 3rd/4th
selector rod
Fig. 3-22. Removing the 5th speed/reverse selector rod:
1 - 5th/reverse selector rod; 2 - 5th/reverse fork; 3 - distance sleeve; 4 - gear
unit
Fig. 3-21. Removing the 5th gear bush:
1 - bush
Fig. 3-23. Removing the reverse idler gear, 5th gear/synchro unit and
fork assembly:
1 - reverse idler gear; 2 - 5th speed coupling; 3 - 5th speed/reverse gear
Simultaneously remove the reverse idler gear 1 (fig. 3-23)
from the shaft, gear 3 in assembly with the coupling and fork 4
from the output shaft.
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) remove
the 5th synchro unit hub together with reverse driven gear 2 from
key 4 (fig. 3-24).
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) and a
knock-out tool take out the front and rear bearings of the inter-
mediate shaft from the transmission casing. Make marks on the
inner rings of the double-row bearing for further refitting in the
bearing outer ring.
Take the intermediate shaft out from the transmission casing,
inclining it as shown on fig. 3-25.
Take out from the transmission casing the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and
4th selector rods one by one, previously having undone the
securing bolts. Taking out the rods, simultaneously remove three
detents 6 (fig. 3-26). Remove the output shaft idler bearing lock
plate (fig. 3-27). Undo the fastening nut of the reverse idler gear
shaft and remove it.
69
Fig. 3-25. Withdrawing the intermediate shaft from transmission casing
Fig. 3-26. Gear shift mechanism:
1 - 3rd/4th selector fork; 2 - 1st/2nd selector rod; 3 - 3rd/4th selector rod; 4 - 1st/2nd selector fork; 5 - 5th/reverse selector rod; 6 - detents; 7 - detent cover; 8 - detent
spring; 9 - detent ball; 10 - 5th/reverse selector fork; 11 - 5th/reverse fork rod head; 12 - 5th/reverse gear unit; 13 - reverse idler gear shaft; 14 - reverse idler gear;
15 - guide plate washer; 16 - guide plate; 17 - gear shift lever housing; 18 - ball socket; 19 - cap; 20 - spring; 21 - thrust washer; 22 - circlip
With the help of a special mandrel (like a screwdriver) take
out the input shaft together with the bearing and the synchro unit
ring (fig. 3-28) and remove the needle bearing from the front end
of the output shaft.
Punch out the output shaft from the idler bearing, take out the
idler bearing and, having inclined as shown on fig. 3-29, take out
from the crankcase the output shaft in assembly with gears, cou-
plings and synchro unit rings. Remove the 3rd/4th synchro unit
sleeve from the shaft.
Dismantle the input shaft (fig. 3-30):
- remove circlip 7, baulk ring 6 and spring 5;
- place the shaft on a press and, having fixed the spring
washer 2 with tool 41.7816.4069, remove circlip 1, and then the
spring washer and bearing 3.
Dismantle the output shaft (fig. 3-31):
- from the rear end of the shaft remove the 1st synchro gear
11 with bush 12, hub 3 with 1st/2nd synchro sleeve 4, 2nd speed
gear 10 together with baulk ring 5;
- place the output shaft with tool 41.7816.4069 on a press (fig.
3-32), place two thrust half-rings 3 under 3rd speed gear and by
pressing the spring washer with the mandrel, remove the circlip 2,
then spring washer 4, 3rd/4th sleeve hub and 3rd speed gear.
If necessary, dismantle the lever and the gear selector mech-
anism. Proceed as follows:
- take off rubber boot 10 (fig. 3-33), thrust ring 6 and circlip 7,
spring 5 and cap 4 from the gearshift lever;
70
Fig. 3-29. Withdrawing the output shaft from the transmission casing
Fig. 3-27. Undoing the fastening bolts of the output shaft idler gear plate
with an impact screwdriver.
The arrow shows the direction of the screwdriver thrust stroke when striking with
a hammer Fig. 3-28. Withdrawing the input shaft from the transmission casing
- note visually the location of parts relative to risk A (fig. 3-34),
made on the directing plate, so that to reassemble the parts in the
same order;
- having undone the nuts from the fastening bolts, separate
the parts of the gear selector mechanism and remove lever 9,
ball socket 4 and rubber sealing rings 15.
The reassembly of the gearbox is carried out in reverse
sequence. Pay attention, that:
- the reverse idler gear shaft is fitted before refitting the shafts
in the transmission casing with torque to 78 N•m (7.8 kgf•m);
- before refitting the 5th/reverse fork rod in the crankcase,
refit the spacer;
- the inner ring of the bearing is press-fitted on the 5th/
reverse gear unit, and the outer one - in the rear cover socket;
- the output shaft rear bearing is press-fitted on the shaft to
facilitate the installation of the rear cover;
- the reverse idler gear 1 (see fig. 3-23), gear 3 and fork 4 are
installed simultaneously;
- when reassembling the gear switch lever apply grease
ãëñ-15 or ãàíéã-24 on the ball or the cap of the ball socket;
- the gear unit fastening bolt is tightened with torque to 78
N•m (7.8 kgf•m);
- when refitting the clutch housing with the transmission cas-
ing front cover, the opening in the front cover should be located
as shown on fig. 3-15;
- grease the oil seals with ãàíéã-24 before refitting;
- use tools 41.7853.4028, 41.7853.4032, 41.7853.4039 to
install the sealings and bearings.
Inspection
Cleaning. Before inspection, carefully clean all gearbox com-
ponents. Brush or scrape all deposits or residues, clean the
bores and splines; then wash down to dissolve and remove all
traces of oil.
Blow the parts with compressed air and carefully wipe them.
Especially carefully blow the bearings, directing the air jet so, that
to exclude fast rotation of rings.
Gearbox casing and covers. There should be no cracks on
the casing, and no wear or damage should be evident on the
bearing housings.
71
Fig. 3-30. Input shaft components:
1 - circlip; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing; 4 - input shaft; 5 - synchro unit spring;
6 - synchro unit baulk ring; 7 - circlip; 8 - bearing
Fig. 3-31. Output shaft, exploded view:
1 - circlip; 2 - spring washer; 3 - synchro unit hub; 4 - synchro unit sleeve; 5 - baulk ring; 6 - spring; 7 - washer; 8 - 3rd speed gear; 9 - output shaft; 10 - 2nd speed gear;
11 - 1st speed gear; 12 - gear bush; 13 - bearing; 14 - key; 15 - reverse gear; 16 - 5th speed gear; 17 - oil deflector washer; 18 - spacer; 19 - output shaft rear bearing;
20 - oil seal; 21 - coupling flange; 22 - lock washer; 23 - nut; 24 - seal spring; 25 - seal; 26 - centering ring
On surfaces mating with the clutch housing, with the rear and
bottom covers there should be no damages that may cause oil
leak. Insignificant damages should be smoothed with a file. If
parts are badly damaged or worn, renew them.
Check the condition of the front cover and ensure that the
input shaft does not touch it when rotating. If the shaft and the
cover are not aligned against each other, replace the damaged
parts. Ensure, that the oil drain aperture is not fouled (shown by
an arrow on fig. 3-15). Clean the oil drain plug.
Seals. Inspect the oil seals and ensure there is no damage,
severe wear or roughness on the working edges. The permissi-
ble amount of wear of seal working edges is no more than 1 mm.
In case of any insignificant defect renew the seals.
Shafts. On the working surfaces and on the splines of the
output shaft no damages or excessive wear is allowed. There
72
Fig. 3-33. Gear change mechanism and lever:
1 - gear change lever; 2 - gasket; 3 - ball socket; 4 - cap; 5 - spring; 6 - ring;
7 - circlip; 8 - flange; 9 - collar; 10 - rubber boot; 11 - lever knob; 12 - lever exten-
sion; 13 - pad; 14 - rubber bush; 15 - spacer; 16 - securing collar;17 - gear
change lever housing; 18 - sealing ring; 19 - guide plate washer; 20 - guide bar;
21 - spring; 22 - guide plate; 23 - reverse lock plate
Fig. 3-32. Refitting the circlip on the output shaft:
1 - tool 41.7816.4069; 2 - circlip; 3 - support half-ring; 4 - spring washer;
5 - press rod
Fig. 3-34. Gear change mechanism:
1 - guide plate washer; 2 - guide plate; 3 - gear change lever housing; 4 - ball
socket; 5 - cap; 6 - spring; 7, 8 - circlips; 9 - gear change lever; 10 - bellows;
11 - flange; 12 - reverse locking plate; 13 - spring; 14 - guide bar; 15 - sealing
ring; A - mark
should be no roughness or scuffings on the rolling surfaces of the
shaft front end.
Check the condition of needle rolling surface in the opening
of the primary shaft.
Examine the intermediate shaft, no chipping or excessive
wear of teeth is allowed.
The surface of the reverse gear shaft should be absolutely
smooth, with no traces of jamming. The mounting gap between
the shaft and the bush of the reverse idler gear should be 0.056-
0.09 mm, the maximum permissible size is 0.15 mm. The clear-
ance is checked by measuring the shaft diameter and the open-
ing of the gear bush. On new parts the shaft diameter is equal to
19.079-19.094 mm, and the inner diameter of the press-fitted
bush is 20.05-20.07 mm.
Insignificant surface roughness can be removed with fine
sandpaper. In case of serious damages and deformations renew
the shaft.
Gears. There should be no damages or excessive wear of
teeth. Special attention should be payed to the condition of the
teeth end faces on the synchro unit crown.
The bearing pattern between the gear teeth should cover the
complete working area, which should be smooth with no signs of
wear. Check the gear mesh clearance, the mounting gap should
be 0.10 mm; maximum wear-gap - 0.20 mm.
The mounting gap between the bushes and the 1st/5th
gears, and between the output shaft and the 2nd/3rd gears
should be 0.05-0.10 mm; maximum wear-gap - 0.15 mm.
If wear exceeds permissible limits, renew the gears.
Bearings. Ball and roller bearings should be in perfect con-
dition. Their radial gap should not exceed 0.05 mm.
Press the inner ring to the outer one with fingers, turn one of
them in both directions, the rolling thus should be smooth. On the
surface of balls and rollers and the rolling paths of the rings no
damage is permissible. Renew damaged bearings. When replac-
ing the input shaft front bearing use pusher A.40006 (see fig. 2-
11); it is possible not to remove the flywheel.
Rods and forks. No deformation of gear shift forks is accept-
able. The rods should freely slide in the borings without signifi-
cant gaps.
Check the condition of rod collets, springs and detent balls.
Parts having any traces of jamming or wear should be renewed.
Hubs, sleeves and baulk rings. Ensure the hubs have no
damage, in particular on the sleeve sliding surface. Draw special
attention to the condition of the sleeve spline face.
The synchro rings should show no sign of excessive wear.
They should be renewed in case the end face is resting on the
synchro unit sleeve. Roughness interfering free sliding, should be
removed with a fine-cut file. Badly worn parts should be renewed.
Transfer box
Fault diagnosis
Diagnosis Remedy
Vibration of the transfer box and body floor (in the area of front
seats) when starting and accelerating to 80 km/h
1. Transfer box not centralised
against power unit
2. Loose or damaged transfer box
mountings, and power unit rear
mount
3. Hard turning or jamming of
front or rear propeller shaft joints
4. Incomplete handbrake release
5. Hard turning of layshaft CV-
joint
Vibration of the transfer box and body floor
(in the area of front seats) at a steady-state movement
(most typical at speed of 80-90 km/h)
1. Propeller shafts out-of-balance
2. Interaxial differential out-of-
balance
3. Jammed propeller shaft U-
joints
4. Jammed layshaft CV-joint
5. Loose engine mounting nuts
and bolts or damaged engine
supports
6. Bended bolts and layshaft flex-
ible coupling flange
Noise at cornering or wheel slip
1. Hard rotation of differential pin-
ions on shaft
2. Jammed axle drive gears in dif-
ferential housing
3. Damaged differential pinion
working surface
4. Large axial clearance of axle
drive gears in differential housing
Hard gear switching or differential lock up
1. Jammed coupling on hub
splines or on differential housing
splines
2. Dents on smaller crown teeth
on top or lower gears, on clutch
teeth and on splines of front axle
drive shaft
3. Bended fork or rod
4. Deformed transfer box drive
levers
5. Jammed drive levers on shafts
73
1. Centralise transfer box
2. Tighten securing nuts and bolts,
renew if necessary
3. Repair U-joints or renew shafts
4. Adjust handbrake
5. Inspect boot and joint. Renew
joint in case of damage
1. Renew worn or damaged parts
2. Renew worn or damaged parts
3. Renew worn or damaged parts
4. Use shims to adjust clearance to
0-0.10 mm
1. Renew or repair propeller shafts
2. Renew or repair differential
3. Repair joints or replace shafts
4. Inspect boot and joint. Renew
joint in case of damage
5. Tighten mounting nuts and bolts
or renew engine mounts
6. Renew bolts or layshaft
1. Rectify burrs, dints, scores, renew
bad parts
2. Rectify burrs, scores, renew bad
parts
3. Straighten deformed parts
4. Straighten levers, renew if neces-
sary
5. Remove levers, clean shafts and
bushes. Renew bad parts
Spontaneous gear or differential lock disengagement
1. Worn teeth on gears and cou-
plings
2. Weak detent spring or detent
component wear
3. Incomplete gear engagement
and differential lock due to drive
system component damage or
due to dents on gears, clutches
or splines
Oil leak
1. Damaged sealings
2. Loose nuts and pins fixing cov-
ers to casing
3. Worn or damaged shaft seals
4. Worn transfer drive rod seals
Transfer box / car body floor vibration
trouble-shooting
(in the area of front seats)
First of all note, at what speed does the transfer box vibration
occur, then start with the diagnosis.
Test 1. Place the transfer- and gearbox levers in neutral posi-
tion and start the engine. Set engine speed equal to vehicle
speed at which vibration occurs.
If vibration still exists on a parked vehicle, it is necessary to
check engine mounting and supports, as they are the reason of
vibration.
Test 2. If during test 1 vibration was not diagnosed, place the
transfer levers in neutral position, start the engine, engage direct
gear and set engine speed equal to vehicle speed at which vibra-
tion occurs.
If vibration is observed on a parked vehicle at this engine
speed, the reason should be looked for in the layshaft (out-of-bal-
ance, bended fastening bolts or flexible coupling flange, jammed
CV-joint).
Test 3. If no vibrations was diagnosed during tests 1 and 2,
go to test 3. Accelerate the vehicle to the speed, at which vibra-
tion occurs, and place the transfer- and gearbox levers in neutral
position. If vibration persists, the reason should be looked for in
the front or rear propeller shaft (out-of-balance, jammed joints) or
interaxial differential is not balanced.
Transfer box - removal, refitting and centering
Removal. Place the vehicle over an inspection pit or on a lift.
Release the handbrake and place the gear- and transfer-box
levers in neutral position. Undo the fastening screws of the gear
lever surround and remove it. Remove the handles and gaiters
from the levers. Undo the fastening screws and remove the cover
cap and the bellows.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transfer box and
the wires from the differential lock warning lamp sensor. Turn the
driveshafts and disconnect the driveshaft flanges from the trans-
fer box shafts, and the layshaft flange from the gearbox output
shaft flange.
Unscrew nuts 3 (fig. 3-37) on the transfer box mounting
bracket 1 fastening bolts and remove it together with brackets
and shims 5, which are placed under the brackets, in assembly
with the layshaft. Mark each shim so that to refit them in the same
amount.
Refitting and centering the transfer box is done in the fol-
lowing order:
- ensure proper refitting of engine support pads in brackets
(the centering washers of the engine front support pads should fit
into the appropriate apertures in the side brackets) and perfect fit
of transfer box supports to the car body bottom. If necessary,
straighten the floor surface under the supports;
- place the transfer box on the vehicle, but do not tighten com-
pletely mounting bracket nuts 4 and 5 (fig. 3-38);
- by moving the transfer box in different directions, find such
location, at which the flanges of the transfer box input shaft and
the layshaft will be on one level, parallel and with minimum clear-
ances between them; the transfer box shafts should be parallel
with the car bottom;
- refit the earlier removed shims under the mounting brackets,
fully tighten the fastening nuts;
- reconnect the front and rear propeller shafts to the transfer
box shafts; attach the speedometer cable, and the wires to the
differential lock warning lamp sensor.
When replacing the transfer box, and also at engine rear
mount "settle down", resulting in vibration of the transfer box,
renew and match shims 5 (see fig. 3-37) with those of proper
thickness.
Matching the shim thickness:
- ensure proper refitting of engine support pads (see subsec-
tion. "Engine removal and refitting");
- separate the flanges of the transfer box input shaft and the
layshaft;
- slacken the nuts that are fixing the transfer box supports to
the car body, remove the shims and, and by moving the transfer
box in different directions, find such location, at which the sepa-
rated flanges will be on one level, parallel and with minimum
clearances between them; the transfer box shafts should be par-
allel with the car body bottom;
- the formed gap between the floor and the support should be
filled with a sufficient amount of shims;
- align the flange centering collars without tensioning the supports of the transfer box
andtheengine,andwhilekeeping the transfer box in thisplace,tightentheearlierslackened
support nuts;
74
1. Renew worn parts
2. Renew springs or worn parts
3. Straighten deformed parts or
renew, clean burrs and scores,
replace bad parts
1. Renew gaskets
2. Tighten nuts and pins in places of
leak
3. Renew oil seals
4. Renew sealing ring
- refit and tighten the flange fastening bolts on the transfer
box and the layshaft; if the bolts fit perfectly in the apertures of the
flanges, the centering is carried out correctly, otherwise the
flanges should be re-aligned.
Dismantle and reassembly
Dismantle. Wash the transfer box and drain oil.
Place the transfer box on a bench for dismantle and slacken
the flange fastening nuts on the input shaft and on the front and
rear axle shafts.
Undo the fastening nuts and remove the front axle casing 1
(fig. 3-39) in assembly with cover 2, lever, fork, differential lock
coupling and the front axle shaft. Remove the speedometer drive
unit housing 3 in assembly with the speedometer driven gear.
After removing lock washer 8 (see fig. 3-36) take out lever
shaft 10 and remove differential locking lever 11. Then remove
cover 7 from the front axle drive and take out the detent spring
and ball 19. Undo clamping bolt 3 from the differential lock fork,
take out rod 6, fork 1 and locking coupling 2.
Remove rear cover 31 (see fig. 3-35) in assembly with the
rear axle drive shaft, taking care not to damage the sealing. Then
remove flanges 12 from the input shaft and the drive shafts of the
front and rear axles.
75
Fig. 3-35. Transfer box:
1 - driven gear; 2 - differential bearing; 3 - spring washer; 4 - circlip; 5 - differential locking coupling; 6 - differential housing crown; 7 - front axle drive shaft crown; 8 - front
axle drive shaft bearing; 9 - oil screen; 10 - splash guard; 11 - front axle drive shaft; 12 - flange; 13 - oil seal; 14 - oil drain plug; 15 - speedometer driven gear;
16 - speedometer drive gear; 17 - plug for oil top-up and level check; 18 - transfer box front cover; 19 - layshaft roller bearing; 20 - mounting bracket; 21 - input shaft bear-
ing cover; 22 - bearing thrust ring; 23 - input shaft bearing; 24 - top gear; 25 - gear shift clutch hub; 26 - gear shift clutch; 27 - transfer box casing; 28 - low gear; 29 - low
gear bush; 30 - input shaft; 31 - rear cover; 32 - layshaft ball bearing; 33 - layshaft; 34 - differential housing; 35 - rear axle differential gear thrust washer; 36 - rear axle
drive shaft bearing; 37 - rear axle differential gear; 38 - pinion; 39 - pinion shaft; 40 - pinion shaft circlip; 41 - spring washer; 42 - front axle differential gear; 43 - transfer
box mounting shaft; 44 - mounting bracket rubber pad
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