Marvel 4570105 User manual
OPERATION
AND
MAINTENANCE
_
ОЕ
MECHANICAL
FIELD
WARD
REFRIGERATOR
NSN
4110-01-291-7046
MARVEL
MODEL
#4570105
-
MODIFIED
-
230/115
VOLT,
60/50
Hz.
CONTRACT
#DLA-120-89-C-8509
MARVEL
INDUSTRIES
DIVISION
OF
NORTHLAND
CORPORATION
P.O.
Box
997
Richmond,
Indiana
47375
Tel.
317-962-2521
P/N
41003786
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
CHAPTER/PARAGRAPH
PAGE
1
25
.
Maintenance
.
.
Replacement
Parts
List
.
Diagrams
ntroduction
1.
Introduction..
2
Warning
4
Organization
of
the
Manual
5
Purpose
of
the
Refrigerator.
6
Description........
8
Specifications
.
.
..
9
1
ml
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Required
Tools...
1
Operation
2-1
Introduction
2-3
Unpacking
Procedure
..
2-4
Installation
2-5
Operation
and
Theory
of
Operation
...
3-1
Introduction.....
33
Зав
iia
ee
3-4
Preventive
Maintenance.
.
3-5
Troubleshooting
3-6
Corrective
Maintenance
Procedures.
.
3-7
Fan
Assembly
Replacement
.......
3-8
Transformer
Power
Cord
Replacement
.
3-9
120
Volt
Power
Cord
Replacement.
.
3-10
Door
Gasket
Replacement.
.
3-11
Thermostat
Replacement
.
.
3-12
Front
Glide
Replacement..
3-13 Rear
Glide
Replacement
.
3-14
Freezer
Door
Replacement
3-15
Depot-Level
Repair-or-Replace
Assemblies
.
.
.
316
DERS
um.
ma
a
aa o Pa
rote
see
gua
ate
aerial!
when
АНИ
1.
Utroducton
-<=
8
au
8.4
5M
é
5-1
Introduction
LIST
OF
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE
NUMBER
PAGE
Refrigerator,FrontView...................................l
02
Refrigerator,
Rear
View
Refrigerator
Functional
Block
Diagram........................
06
Mechanical
Assembly
..............
Refrigerator,
Front View.
Refrigerator,
Rear
View
Mechanical
Assembly:
szscaças
een
μα
ο
ας
Refrigerator
Wiring
Diagram
...............................
22
の
で
や
の
い
ーー
SEL
Ss
LIST
OF
TABLES
TABLE
NUMBER
ПИ
ООС
e
ey
ee
ine
am
за бо
ао
ро:
зе
con
1-2
Required
Tools
CHAPTER
1
INTRODUCTION
1-1.
INTRODUCTION.
1-2.
This
Operation
and
Maintenance
Manual
gives
you
the
information
necessary
for
using
and
maintaining
the
Mechanical
and
Biological
Refrigerator,
NSN
4110-01-180-3420.
The
manual
includes
information
for
operation, preventive
maintenance,
and
corrective
maintenance.
WARNING
WHEN
THE
REFRIGERANT
LINE
HAS
BEEN
OPENED,
OR
FOR
ANY
OPERATION
REQUIRING
OPENING
THE
REFRIGERANT
LINE
ONLY
QUALIFIED
MAINTENANCE
PERSONNEL,
USING
PROCEDURES
AND
EQUIPMENT
SPECIFIED
BY
THE
MANUFACTURER
OR
BY
DEPOT-LEVEL
AUTHORITIES,
SHOULD
WORK
ON
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
ANY
MOISTURE
THAT
IS
ALLOWED
INTO
THE
REFRIGERATION
LINES
WILL
COMBINE
WITH
THE
FLUORINE
AND
CHLORINE
REFRIGERANT
TO
PRODUCE
HYDROCHLORIC
ACID,
AN
EXTREMELY
POWERFUL
AND
CORROSIVE
ACID.
1-3.
All
procedures
in
this
manual
refer
to
the
electrical
and
mechanical
elements
of
operation
and
maintenance.
1-4.
Organization
of
the
Manual.
As
shown
in
the
Table
of
Contents,
this
manual
is
organized
as
follows:
Chapter
1:
INTRODUCTION.
Provides
information
on
Organization
of
the
manual,
purpose
of
the
refrigerator,
description
and
specifications
for
the
refrigerator,
list
of
required
equipment,
and
safety
information.
Chapter
2:
OPERATION.
Tells
you
how
to
unpack,
install,
and
operate
the
refrigerator,
with
a
brief
theory
of
operation.
Chapter
3:
MAINTENANCE.
Details
the
procedures
for
preventive
and
corrective
maintenance
of
the
refrigerator.
Chapter
4:
PARTS
LIST.
Lists,
by
assemblies,
the
replacement
parts
for
the
refrigerator,
with
part
numbers
and
illustrations.
Chapter
5:
DIAGRAMS.
Contains
all
illustrations
cited
in
the
text
but
not
otherwise
included.
1-5.
Purpose
of
the
Refrigerator.
The
refrigerator
is
to
be
used
as
a
refrigerator-freezer
at
ward
level
in
field
hospitals
as
designated
by
the
Department
of
Defense.
1-6.
Description.
Refer
to
fig.
1-1
and
1-2.
The
refrigerator
is
light
weight
and portable,
designed
for
field
operations.
Providing
4.5
cubic
feet
of
refrigeration
and
freezing
space,
the
refrigerator
incorporates
three
shelves,
drip
pan,
a
0.7
cubic-foot
freezer
compartment,
adjustable
thermostat,
carrying
handles,
glide-feet,
and
corrosion-resisting
steel
shield
for
mounting
over
rear
mechanism
openings.
The
refrigerator
compartment
operates
over
a
temperature
range
of
34
to
42
degrees
Fahrenheit,
and
the
freezer
compartment
operates
over
a
range
of
12
to
20
degrees
Fahrenheit.
The
refrigerator
has
a
220/110
VAC
step-down
transformer;
it
can
operate
from
either
a
220
or
110
VAC,
60/50
Hz
source.
Fig.
1-2,
No.
1,
2,
3.
1-7.
The
outer
shell
of
the
refrigerator
is
1/32nd
inch
carbon
steel
with
olive
drab
finish.
The
inner
shell
and
door
liner
are
plastic.
The
door
is
trimmed
with
anodized
aluminum
and
has
a
magnetic
latch.
There
is
an
additional
door
-
security
snap
fastener
located
at
the
upper
left
corner
for
use
during
transport.
Fig.
1-1.
Refrigerator,
Front
View
1.
Thermostat
(behind
grill)
2.
Crisper
shelf
3.
Drip
tray
4.
Freezer
door
5.
Hinge
pin
6.
Door
gasket
7.
Door
8.
Wire
shelf
9.
Crisper
tray
10.
Cabinet
assembly
Fig. 1-2.
Refrigerator,
Rear
View
1.
Transformer
220
Volt
line
4.
Cabinet
back
cover
2.
Transformer
120
Volt
outlet
5.
Stainless
steel
backshield
3.
120
Volt
power
cord
(for
mechanical
assembly)
1-8.
Specifications.
Table
1-1
lists
the
complete
specifications
and
parameters
for
the
refrigerator,
NSN
4110-01-291-7046.
Table
1-1
Parameter
Specification
Acceptable
input
voltages
110/220
VAC.
Step-down
transformer
provided
for
use
with
220
VAC
source.
Acceptable
input
freguencies
60/50
Hz.
Power
consumption
240
watts
nominal;
1650
watts
maximum
surge
Line
current
maximum
15
amps
inrush
at
110
V;
7.5
amps
inrush
220
V
Weight
106
Ibs.
Volume,
internal
6.1
cubic
feet
Outer
dimensions
35
1/4”
H
x
25
3/8”
Wx
24
1/16”
D
Internal
volume
Freezer
0.7
cubic
feet,
minimum
Refrigerator
4.5
cubic
feet,
minimum
Pull-down
times
at
ambient
temperature
of
120
degrees
F:
3.0
hours
100
degrees
F.
1%
hour
77
degrees
F.
%
hour
Nominal
weight
and
volume
in
shipping
container
Weight
135
Ibs.
Volume
16.8
cubic
feet
Dimensions
38%"
H
x
28”
W
x
27”
D
Type
of
refrigerant
R-12
Weight
of
full
charge
of
refrigerant
4.7
oz.
(0.29
Ibs.)
1-9.
Required
Tools.
Table
1-2
lists
all
of
the
tools
required
for
normal
use
and
maintenance
of
the
refrigerator.
Table
1-2
Description
No.
Req'd
Phillips
head
screwdriver
(3'’-4”
long)
1
Phillips
head
screwdriver
(8"
long)
Flatblade
screwdriver
(small,
approximately
1/8”
-
wide
blade)
Hand
roller
36”
x
36”
Cardboard
sheet
36”
x
36”
Table
or
bench
Channel-lock
adjustable
pliers
Combination
open
end/box
end
wrenches
Any
standard
multimeter
for
checking
voltages
and
continuity
of
circuits
For
tools
and
associated
equipment
used
in
maintenance
procedures
NOT
described
in
this
manual,
refer
to
Depot-level
maintenance
organization
or
contact
the
manufacturer:
Marvel
Industries,
P.O.
Box
997,
Richmond,
Indiana
47375.
1-10.
Safety.
ALWAYS
observe
the
warning
notice
shown
after
paragraph
1-2,
above.
Additionally,
be
careful
of
power
sources.
110
volts
can
kill
you.
If
your
system
uses
220
volts
with
a
step-down
transformer,
being
very
careful
is
even
more
important.
For
connection
to
a
220
VAC
source,
be
sure
to
use
the
step-down
transformer,
as
detailed
in
par.
2.4f,
below.
1-11.
When
the
refrigerator
is
in
operation,
the
condenser
(radiator)
can
get
hot
enough
to
burn
your
skin.
1-12.
NEVER
use
a
two-wire
cord
or
power
outlet
with
this
refrigerator.
Such
a
practice
can
produce
shocks
and
will
damage
operating
elements
of
the
system.
CHAPTER
2
OPERATION
2-1.
INTRODUCTION.
2-2.
This
chapter
details
unpacking,
installation,
and
operation
of
the
refrigerator,
with
a
brief
explanation
of
the
theory
of
operation.
2-3.
Unpacking.
Unpacking
is
easy.
The
refrigerator
is
shipped
in
a
heavy-duty
cardboard
carton,
with
slip-off
top
and
bottom
covers
held
on
by
steel
straps.
To
unpack:
Stand
the
carton
upright.
With
tin
snips,
cut
the
lower
steel
band.
Pull
all
four
sides
of
the
bottom
cover
away
and
down
from
the
sides
of
the
carton.
Lifting
from
the
top,
pull
the
carton
up
and
off
of
the
refrigerator.
Dispose
of
the
carton,
dust
off
the
refrigerator,
and
it
is
ready
for
installation.
capo»
2-4.
Installation.
Getting
the
refrigerator
ready
to
operate
is
very
simple.
Dispose
of
the
packing
material,
and
position
the
refrigerator
where
you
want
it.
Then:
a.
Be
sure
that
the
cord
provided
is
long
enough
to
reach
a
safely
grounded
three-prong
outlet.
Connect
the
plug
to
the
wall
socket
at
the
end
of
this
installation
procedure.
For
a
wall
outlet
that
is
220
VAC,
the
wall
socket
cord
must
go
to
the
transformer,
located
at
the
back
lower
left
corner,
shown
in
fig.
3-1.
Then
plug
the
output
line
of
the
transformer
to
the
input
line
of
the
refrigerator,
shown
in
fig.
1-2.
b.
The
four
glides
(feet)
of
the
refrigerator
are
non-adjustable.
If
the
refrigerator
is
on
a
level
surface,
the
refrigerator
will
be
level.
c.
At
the
upper
left
front
corner
there
is
a
snap-fastened
safety
strap
which
holds
the
door
closed
during
shipment.
To
open
the
door,
unsnap
the
safety
strap
and
pull
on
the
handle;
the
door
has
a
magnetic
latch.
d.
At
the
lower
left
front
corner,
behind
the
grill,
which
is
held
on
by
two
small
screws,
you
will
find
the
thermostat.
The
aluminum
sensor
line
attached
to
the
thermostat
runs
up
the
back
of
the
refrigerator
to
the
upper
right
rear
corner.
The
sensor
lies
between
the
rear
panel
and
the
insula-
tion.
The
dial
of
the
thermostat
has
an
adjustment
range
of
1
to
7
(7
is
the
coldest
setting.
It
is
pre-
set
at
the
factory
for
3%),
providing
the
normal
operating
temperature.
Varying
ambient
temperatures
may
require
re-setting
the
thermostat
dial
for
your
installation.
e.
Finally,
before
making
the
power
connection,
be
sure
that
the
interior
of
the
refrigerator
is
clean.
f.
Connect
the
power
cord
to
the
appropriate
source:
110
or
220
volts
AC,
nominal.
For
a
220
VAC
source,
plug
the
transformer
inlet
line
into
the
source,
then
connect
the
120
Volt
line
into
the
transformer
outlet.
For
120
VAC
source,
plug
the
120
Volt
line
directly
to
the
source.
2-5.
Operation
and
Theory
of
Operation.
Once
prepared
as
specified
above,
the
refrigerator
func-
tions
automatically.
The following
is
a
brief
explanation
of
how
the
refrigerator
works.
This
explana-
tion
will
enable
you
to
operate
and
maintain
the
refrigerator
most
efficiently.
2-6.
Refer
to
fig.
2-1,
a
functional
diagram
of
the
system,
and
to
figs.
4-1,
4-2, 4-3,
which
show
the
components
and
their
location
in
the
refrigerator.
To
follow
the
explanation,
refer
to
these
figures.
a.
The
thermostat
(located
behind
the
grill
at
the
lower
left
front
of
the
refrigerator)
monitors
temperatures
inside
the
refrigerator.
When
the
sensor
shows
a
temperature
warmer
than
the
adjusted
setting,
the
thermostat’s
contacts
close,
completing
the
circuit
that
operates
the
compressor.
The
compressor
takes
in
the
warm
low
pressure
gas
and
converts
it
to
high
pressure
gas.
Passing
through
the
condenser
(radiator),
the
chlorine/fluorine
refrigerant
gives
off
heat
to
the
air
surrounding
the
condenser,
primarily
through
the
cooling
fins,
like
any
radiator.
During
this
process
the
high
pressure
gas
changes
state
as
it
loses heat,
coming
out
of
the
condenser
as
a
high
pressure
liquid.
The
dryer/
filter
blocks
particles,
and
contains
a
desiccant
to
remove
any
water
from
the
system.
Water
is
a
hazard
because
it
can
combine
with
chlorine/fluorine
refrigerant
to
form
hydrochloric
acid,
a
power-
ful,
toxic
substance.
b.
From
the
output
side
of
the
Filter/Dryer,
the
high
pressure
liquid
flows
through
the
evapor-
ator,
which
in
fact
is
incorporated
into
the
walls
of
the
freezer
compartment
of
the
refrigerator.
In
this
process,
the
refrigerant
lowers
temperatures
by
absorbing
heat
from
the
interior
of
the
refriger-
ator,
changing
in
the
process
to
low
pressure
liquid,
then
to
a
low
pressure
gas.
-5-
c.
On
fig.
2-1,
look
at
the
PTC
Starter
Relay.
This
relay
performs
two
important
functions:
It
brings
both
the
thermostat
and
the
condenser
fan
motor
into
the
compressor-start
circuit,
and
it
Provides
the
required
sequence
for
bringing
the
compressor
to
full
power.
When
the
thermostat
closes,
the
circuit
between
the
120
V
power
cord
high
(black)
line
and
the
P8
of
the
PTC
starter
relay,
the
first
surge
of
power
goes
through
the
relay
to
the
start-up
windings
in
the
compressor.
A
pre-set
time
later,
the
voltage
is
switched
to
the
compressor-run
windings.
Also,
the
relay
completes
the
circuit
through
P2
to
the
condenser
fan
motor.
If
the
fan
does
not
run,
the
refrigerator
system
cannot
function.
Connections
are
as
indicated
in
fig.
2-1.
Notice
that
EITHER
fan
motor
line
can
be
connected
to
either
P8
or
P2.
Looking
at
the
connections
you
will
see
that
two
lines go
to
each
pin,
secured
by
a
spade-lug
connection
covered
with
shrink-wrap
‘‘piggy-back”
connectors.
COVER
FOR
STARTER
RELAY/
RETURN
LINE
TO
TERMINAL
COMPRESSOR
COMPRESSOR
EN
ACCUMULATOR
Low
PRESSURE
LIQUID
(CAP,
TUBE)
LOW
PRESSURE
THERMOSTAT
©
FILTER/DRYER
HIGH
PRESSURE
LIQUID
CONDENSER
FAN
ie0V
MOTOR
CORD
TRANSFORMER
220V
LINE
x
FOR
OPERATION
WITH
120V
SOURCE,
DD
NOT
USE
THE
TRANSFORMER
Fig.
2-1.
Refrigerator
Functional
Block
Diagram
d.
The
element
marked
accumulator
is
a
section
of
the
evaporator
that
acts
as
a
reservoir,
keeping
the
return
line
to
the
compressor
filled
with
low
pressure
gas.
e.
The
refrigeration
system
cannot
function
with
proper
operation
of
the
fan.
f.
Fig.
2-1
shows
a
system
that
uses
a
220
Volt
source.
If
your
system
uses
a
primary
source
of
120
Volts,
the
transformer
is
not
required:
simply
plug
the
120
VAC
power
cord
directly
to
the
source.
g.
Notice
that
the
120
V
power
cord
green
line
and
a
short
green
line
from
one
of
the
com-
pressor’s
mounting
studs
are
attached
to
cabinet
ground.
See
also
fig.
3-1,
No.
13.
h.
Refer
to
fig.
2-1.
It is
important
to
notice
that
a
failure
of
the
PTC
starter
relay
can
appear
to
be
a
failure
of
the
compressor.
When
the relay
functions
as
it
should
in
normal
operation,
closing
of
the
thermostat's
relays
allows
120
VAC
to
flow
from
the
black
lead
of
the
power
cord
through
the
contacts
of
the
thermostat,
along
the
white
return
lead
from
the
thermostat
to
relay
P8.
The
relay
operates
to
start
the
compressor,
then
switches
voltage
to
the
compressor-run
windings.
The
fan
motor
leads
to
the
P8
and
P2
“piggy-backs”
start
the
condenser
fan
motor.
The
white
lead
from
the
power
cord
attaches
to
P2
to
complete
the
circuit.
So,
a
failure
of
the
PTC
relay
can
also
look
like
a
problem
with
the
fan
motor.
CHAPTER
3
MAINTENANCE
3-1.
INTRODUCTION
3-2.
This
chapter
covers
preventive
maintenance
and
corrective
maintenance,
including
a
recom-
mended
schedule
of
maintenance
and
a
brief
trouble
shooting
guide.
3-3.
SAFETY.
In
working
on
this
refrigerator,
be
sure
to
ALWAYS
observe
the
elements
of
safety
cited
in
the
general
introduction,
par.
1-2,
and
at
par.
1-9.
Before
performing
any
of
the
following,
ALWAYS
be
sure that
the
refrigerator
is
unplugged
from
its
power.
3-4.
Preventive
Maintenance.
The
following
lists
periodic
preventive
maintenance
procedures,
to be
completed
daily,
weekly,
monthly,
and
semi-annually
to
insure
continuity
of
operation
and
prompt
discovery
of
problems,
or
potential
problems.
DAILY
Check
door
gasket
for
proper
seal
or
damage.
If
damaged,
see
par.
3-10.
Check
cold
plate
for
heavy
frost
accumulation.
Defrost
if
frost
is
more
than
%”
thick.
For
defrost
procedure,
see
par.
3-16.
Check
that
the
defrost
tray
is
flush
against
rear
cabinet
liner
wall.
If
the
defrost
tray
is
damaged,
see
par.
3-15.
Check
freezer
door
for
correct
operation,
sealing,
and
closure.
If
the
freezer
door
is
damaged,
see
par.
3-14.
Check
commodities
in
the
freezer
and
refrigerator
sections.
If
necessary,
change
the
thermostat
setting
(changes
temperatures
in
both
compartments).
If
the
thermostat
does
not
work,
see
par.
3-11.
WEEKLY
Check
the
refrigerator
for
scratches
or
scrapes
on
outside
painted
surfaces.
Repair
with
touch-up
paint
to
prevent
rusting.
See
parts
list,
Chapter
4.
Check
glass
shelf/crisper
tray
for
cracks
or
other
damage,
replace.
See
parts
list.
MONTHLY
Check
the
refrigerator
door
gasket
for
accumulation
of
dirt
or
possible
damage.
If
dirty,
wipe
clean
with
a
mild
detergent.
If
it is
damaged,
see
par.
3-10.
Check
power
cord
for
damage.
If it
is
damaged,
see
par.
3-8
or
3-9.
Check
electrical
plugs
for
damage.
In
case
of
damage,
see
par.
3-8
or
3-9.
Check
fan
motor/compressor
and
transformer
for
correct
operation.
If
there
is
damage,
see
par.
3-15.
Check
shelves,
crisper
trays,
liner
walls,
and
refrigerator
floor
for
dirt
accumulation
and
damage.
Wipe
clean
with
mild
detergent,
In
case
of
damage,
replace
shelves
and
trays
(see
parts
list,
Chapter
4).
If
liner
walls
or
floor
are
damaged,
return
refrigerator
for
depot-level
repair/replacement.
SEMI-ANNUALLY
Check
the
condenser
coil,
fan
assembly,
compressor,
and
transformer
for
accumulation
of
dirt/dust.
If
necessary,
clean
with
vacuum
cleaner.
For
removal
of
stainless
steel
backshield
to
gain
access
to
the
mechanical
assembly
compartment,
see
par.
3-7c
and
fig.
1-2.
3-5.
Troubleshooting.
The
following
section
gives
you
the
procedure
for
troubleshooting
to
identify
the
cause
of
problems
that
might
occur
in
refrigerator
operation.
In
each
case,
the
symptom
is
follow-
ed
by
a
procedure
for
eliminating
the
problem.
120
VOLT
(60/50
Hz)
POWER
GRID
SYSTEM
Symptom:
Refrigerator
does
not
cool
or
operate.
Remedy:
Is
the
120V
plugin
a
120
VAC
outlet?
If
not,
plug
it
in.
Is
the
circuit
breaker
for
the
120V
outlet
open?
If
so,
reset
the
circuit
breaker.
Is
the
thermostat
dial
turned
to
an
operational
position
(not
OFF)?
If
not,
start
with
a
setting
of
3%
and
turn
to
the
setting
you
want.
If
the
thermostat
still
does
not
start
the
refrigerator,
check
the
thermostat
for
continuity:
turn
the
dial
fully
counter-clockwise
and
check
resistance
between
the
two
electrical
connectors
of
the
thermostat.
It
should
be
an
open
circuit.
Turn
the
dial
clockwise
until
you
hear
the
click
of
the
contacts
inside.
From
this
point
on,
resistance
between
the
connectors
should
be
approximately
zero
Ohms.
If
the
thermostat
checks
out
bad,
see
par.
3-11
for
replacement
procedure.
If
the
system
still
does
not
start,
with
a
new
thermostat
if
the
old
one
failed
the
continuity
test,
substitute
a
new
PTC
starter
relay.
Follow
par.
3-7
through
step
f3.
Then
remove
the
piggy-back
connectors
from
relay
P8
and
P2,
pull
the relay
off
the
pins
holding
it
to
the
compressor
at
J5, J6,
and
J7.
Install
a
new
relay
onto
the
compressor
plug
and
re-
verse
the
procedure
to
connect
the
system
for
running.
If
the
compressor
and
fan
motor
still
do
not
run,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
repair
or
replacement.
Symptom:
Refrigerator
operates,
but
does
not
cool.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
turned
on
for
at
least an
hour?
ls
the
thermostat
set
to
a
low
enough
temperature?
If
not,
try
a
lower
setting.
If
the
refrigerator
still
does
not
cool,
open
the
door
and
touch
the
cold
plate
(evaporator).
If
the
cold
plate
has
frost
and
is
cold
to
the
touch,
see
par.
3-11,
for
replacing
the
thermo-
stat.
If
the
cold
plate
is
warm,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
further
checks
and/or
replace-
ment.
Symptom:
Articles
in
the
refrigerator
and/or
freezer
section
are
too
warm.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
turned
on for
at
least
an
hour?
Is
the
thermostat
set
to
a
low
enough
temperature?
If
not,
try
a
higher
setting.
If
the
refrigerator
still
does
not
cool,
open
the
door
and
touch
the
cold
plate
(evaporator).
If
the
cold
plate
has
frost
and
is
cold
to
the
touch,
see
par.
3-11,
for
replacing
the
thermo-
stat,
If
the
cold
plate
is
warm,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
further
checks and/or
replace-
ment.
Symptom:
Articles
in
the
refrigerator
and/or
freezer section
are
too
cold.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
on
for
at
least
an
hour?
Is
the
thermostat
setting too
high?
If
so,
turn
the
dial
to
a
lower
setting,
and
let
the
refrig-
erator
run
for
at
least
two
hours
to
check
temperature.
If
it
is
still
too
cold,
reduce
setting
to
a
lower
number.
If
changing
the
thermostat
setting
does
not
warm
the
refrigerator,
see
par.
3-11,
for
replace-
ment
of
the
thermostat.
220
VOLT
(60/50
Hz)
POWER
GRID
SYSTEM
Symptom:
Refrigerator
does
not
cool
or
operate.
Remedy:
Is
the
220V
electrical
plug
in
a
220
VAC
outlet?
If
not,
plug
it
in.
Is
the
120V
electrical
plug
connected
to
the
120
VAC
outlet
on
the
transformer?
15
the
circuit
breaker
for
the
220
V
outlet
open?
If
so,
reset
it.
ls
the
thermostat
dial
turned
to
an
operational
position
(not
OFF)?
If
not,
start
with
a
setting
of
3%
and
turn
to
the
setting
you
want.
If
the
thermostat
still
does
not
start
the
refrigerator,
check
the
thermostat
for
continuity:
turn
the
dial
fully
counter-clockwise
and
check
resistance
between
the
two
electrical
connectors
of
the
thermostat.
It
should
be an
open
circuit.
Turn
the
dial
clockwise
until
you
hear
the
click
of
the
contacts
inside.
Nee
From
this
point
on,
resistance
between
the
connectors
should
be
approximately
zero
Ohms.
If
the
thermostat
checks
out
bad,
see
par.
3-11
for
replacement
procedure.
If
the
system
still
does
not
start,
with
a
new
thermostat
if
the
old
one
failed
the
continuity
test,
substitute
a
new
PTC
starter
relay.
Follow
par.
3-7
through
step
f3.
Then
remove
the
piggy-back
connectors
from
Relay
P8
and
P2,
pull
the
relay
off
the
pins
holding
it
to
the
compressor
at
J5,
J6,
and
J7.
Install
a
new
relay
onto
the
compressor
plug
and
re-
verse
the
procedure
to
connect
the
system
for
running.
If
the
compressor
and
fan
motor
still
do not
run,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
repair
or
replacement.
Symptom:
Refrigerator
operates,
but
does
not
cool.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
turned
on
for
at
least
an
hour?
Is
the
thermostat
set
to
a
low
enough
temperature?
If
not,
try
a
lower
setting.
If
the
refrigerator
still
does
not
cool,
open
the
door
and
touch
the
cold
plate
(evaporator).
If
the
cold
plate
has
frost
and
is
cold
to
the
touch,
see
par.
3-11
for
replacing
the
thermo-
stat.
If
the
cold
plate
is
warm,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
further
checks
and/or
replace-
ment.
Symptom:
Articles
in
the
refrigerator
and/or
freezer
section
are
too
warm.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
turned
on for
at
least
an
hour?
Is
the
thermostat
set
to
a
low
enough
temperature?
If
not,
try
a
higher
setting.
If
the
refrigerator
still
does
not
cool,
open
the
door
and
touch
the
cold
plate
(evaporator).
If
the
cold
plate
has
frost
and
is
cold
to
the
touch,
see par.
3-11,
for
replacing
the
thermo-
stat.
If
the
cold
plate
is
warm,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
further
checks
and/or
replace-
ment.
Symptom:
Articles
in
the
refrigerator
and/or
freezer
section
are
too
cold.
Remedy:
Has
the
refrigerator
been
turned
on
for
at
least
an
hour?
Is
the
thermostat
setting
too
high?
If
so,
turn
the
dial
to
a
lower
setting,
and
let
the
refriger-
ator
run
for
at
least
two
hours
to
check
temperature.
If it is
still
too
cold,
reduce
setting
to
a
lower
number.
If
changing
the
thermostat
setting
does
not
warm
the
refrigerator,
see par.
3-11,
for
replace-
ment
of
the
thermostat.
3-6.
Corrective
Maintenance
Procedures.
CAUTION
Before
performing
any
of
the
following,
be
sure that
the
refrigerator
is
unplugged
from
its
power
source.
The
following
are
detailed
procedures
for
replacement
of
specific
functional
components
of
the
Mar-
vel
61RF
Refrigerator,
NSN
4110-01-291-7046.
Before
beginning
work,
you
should
have
on
hand,
at
a
minimum,
the
tools
recommended
in
the
list
at
par. 1-9,
and
the
specified
replacement
part
for
the
refrigerator.
Each
separate
procedure below
tells
you
what
replacement
parts
to
have
on
hand,
how
to
remove
the
defective
parts,
then
install
the
replacements.
3-7.
Fan
Assembly
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241277).
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
for
easy
access
to
front
and
back.
b.
Using
the
3-4”
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
mounting
screws
from
the
cabinet
back,
and
remove
the
back. Put
the
back
and
the
screws
(12)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Recessed
into
the
foam
insulation,
both
the
large
copper
suction
return
line
from
the
evaporator
and
the
thin
capillary
tube
carrying
cold
liquid
from
the
filter/dryer
to
the
evaporator
run
up
to
the
upper
left
corner.
Under
these
lines
is
the
thin
aluminum
capillary
tube/sensor
line
from
the
thermostat.
c.
Using
the
3-4”
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
stainless
steel
backshield
then
set
the
screws
(5)
and
the
backshield
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES.
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU HAVE
IT
PULLED
ABOUT
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
d.
Refer
to
fig.
3-1,
Refrigerator
Mechanical
Assembly.
The
mechanical
assembly
is
comprised
of
all
the
components
mounted
on
the
steel
baseplate
at
the
lower
rear
of
the
refrigerator,
fig.
3-1,
No.
14.
Dismount
the
mechanical
assembly
by
removing
the
four
screws,
fig.
3-1,
No.
8.
Three
screws
hold
the
baseplate
to
the
refrigerator
cabinet’s
reinforcement
bar,
and
the
fourth
screw
is
also
the
upper
fan
motor
assembly
support
screw.
Set
the
screws
aside
for
later
use.
e.
Remove
the
cabinet
ground
screw
at
fig.
3-1,
No.
13,
or
loosen
it
so
that
it
does
not
make
contact
with
the
refrigerator
cabinet
frame.
This
makes
it
much
easier
to
slide
the
mechanical
assem-
bly
back
from
it's
operational
position.
f.
Fig.
3-1,
No.
15,
is
the
plastic
cover
for
the
compressor’s
electrical
terminal
and
starter.
Remove
the
cover
as
follows:
1.
Remove
the
U-shaped
retaining
clamp
holding
the
cover
onto
its
support
by
prying
the
clamp
back
and
away
from
its
seated
position.
2.
Remove
the plastic
cover
by
pulling
it
out
and
away.
3.
Set
both
clamp
and
cover
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
g.
Locate
the
wire
leads
from
the fan
motor
and
follow
them
back
to
the
“piggy-back”
spade-
lug
connectors
on
the
terminal/starter.
By
gently,
steadily
pulling
on
the
spade
connectors,
remove
them
from
the
piggy-back
lugs,
and
set
the
motor
leads
aside.
h.
Push
the
piggy-backs
firmly
back onto
the
starter
terminals
so
that
they
are
firmly
engaged
onto
the
starter
terminals
(fig.
2-1,
P8
and
P2).
Also,
push
the
starter
firmly
into
its
3-pin
terminal
connection
against
the
side
of
the
compressor.
Either
motor
lead
can
go
to
either
P8
or
P2.
i.
Use
the
8”
phillips
screwdriver
to
loosen
and
remove
the
two
screws
fastening
the
bottom
of
the fan
motor
bracket
to
the
baseplate.
Set
the
screws
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Carefully
pull
the
fan
assembly
up
and
away
from
the fan
guard,
toward
the
compressor,
and
lift
it
clear.
Discard
the
old
fan
assembly.
j.
Assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedure.
240
16
очоярою
>
13
5
12
Fig,
3-1.
Refrigerator
Mechanical
Assembly
.
Compressor
.
Condenser
.
Transformer
.
Fill
lines
.
Filter/dryer
Fan
motor
Fan
motor
support
.
Mechanical
assembly
mounting
screws
As
.
Return
from
evaporator
10.
ie
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Cold
line
to
evaporator
Condenser
output
to
filter/dryer
Condenser
input
from
compressor
Cabinet
ground
Baseplate
Starter
relay
cover
Glide
3-8.
Transformer/Power
Cord
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241278)
NOTE
IF
THE
TRANSFORMER
POWER
CORD
MUST
BE
REPLACED,
USE
THE
SAME
PROCEDURE
AS
FOR
THE
TRANSFORMER:
THE
CORD
IS
PERMANENTLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
TRANSFORMER
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
for
easy
access
to
front
and
back.
b.
Using
the
3'-4”
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
stainless
steel
backshield
then
set
the
screws
(5)
and
the
backshield
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES.
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU
HAVE
IT
PULLED
ABOUT
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
c.
Refer
to
fig.
3-1,
Refrigerator
Mechanical
Assembly.
The
mechanical
assembly
is
comprised
of
all
the
components
mounted
on
the
steel
baseplate
at
the
lower
rear
of
the
refrigerator,
fig.
3-1,
No.
14.
Dismount
the
mechanical
assembly
by
removing
the
four
screws,
fig.
3-1,
No.
8.
Three
screws
hold
the
baseplate
to
the
refrigerator
cabinet’s
reinforcement
bar,
and
the
fourth
screw
is
also
the
upper
fan
motor
assembly
support
screw.
Set
the
screws
aside
for later
use.
d.
Remove
the
cabinet
ground
screw
at
fig.
3-1,
No.
13,
or
loosen
it
so
that
it
does
not
make
contact
with
the
refrigerator
cabinet
frame.
This
makes
it
much
easier
to
slide
the
mechanical
assem-
bly
back
from
it’s
operational
position.
e.
Using
the
8”
phillips
screwdriver,
loosen
and
remove
the
two
screws
securing
the
trans-
former
to
the
baseplate
(behind
the
transformer).
This
detaches
the
transformer
from
the
mechanical
baseplate.
Set
the
screws
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
f.
Pull
out
and
away
from
the
stainless
steel
backshield
the
rubber
grommet
through
which
the
transformer
power
cord
passes,
and
set
the
grommet
aside
for
re-assembly.
g.
Slide
the
transformer
power
cord
through
the
hole
in
the
shield.
h.
Discard
the
old
transformer.
i.
Re-assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above procedure.
3-9.
120V
Power
Cord/Plug
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241279)
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
for
easy
access
to
front
and
back.
b.
Using
the
3’-4’’
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
mounting
screws
from
the
cabinet
back,
and
remove
the
back. Put
the
back
and
the
screws
(12)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Recessed
into
the
foam
insulation,
both
the
large
copper
suction
return
line
from
the
evaporator
and
the
thin
capillary
tube
carrying
cold
liquid
from
the
filter/dryer
to
the
evaporator
run
up
to
the
upper
left
corner.
Under
these
lines
is
the
thin
aluminum
capillary
tube/sensor
line
from
the
thermostat.
с.
Using
the
3''-4”
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
stainless
steel
backshield
then
set
the
screws
(5)
and
the
backshield
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB.
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES.
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU
HAVE
IT
PULLED
ABOUT
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
d.
Refer
to
fig.
3-1,
Refrigerator
Mechanical
Assembly.
The
mechanical
assembly
is
com-
prised
of
all
the
components
mounted
on
the
steel
baseplate
at
the
lower
rear
of
the
refrigerator,
fig.
3-1,
No.
14.
Dismount
the
mechanical
assembly
by
removing
the
four
screws,
fig.
3-1,
No.
8.
Three
screws
hold
the
baseplate
to
the
refrigerator
cabinet’s
reinforcement
bar,
and
the
fourth
screw
is
also
the
upper
fan
motor
assembly
support
screw.
Set
the
screws
aside
for
later
use.
2
e.
Remove
the
cabinet
ground
screw
at
fig.
3-1,
No.
13,
or
loosen
it
so
that
it
does
not
make
contact
with
the
refrigerator
cabinet
frame.
This
makes
it
much
easier
to
slide
the
mechanical
assem-
bly
back
from
its
operational
position.
f.
Fig.
3-1,
No.
15,
is
the
plastic
cover
for
the
compressor’s
electrical
terminal
and
starter.
Remove
the
cover
as
follows:
1.
Remove
the
U-shaped
retaining
clamp
holding
the
cover
onto
its
support
by
prying
the
clamp
back
and
away
from
its
seated
position.
2.
Remove
the
plastic
cover
by
pulling
it
out
and
away.
3.
Set
both
clamp
and
cover
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
g.
Remove
the
power
cord
white
lead
from
the
piggy-back
connector
on
PTC
starter
relay,
P2.
h.
Loosen
and
remove
the
power
cord
green
line
from
the
cabinet
ground
screw,
fig.
3-1,
No.
13:
i.
In
front,
below
the
door,
dismount
the
plastic
grill,
by
loosening
the
two
phillips
screws
and
removing
them.
Put
the
grill
and
screws
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
j.
The
thermostat
is
located
behind
the
left
corner
of
the
grill.
It
attaches
to
the
120V
power
cord
with
two
spade-lug
connectors.
Reach
behind
the
thermostat
and
gently
pull
the
two
connectors
off
by
pulling
them
straight
to
the
rear.
DO
NOT
pull
directly
on
the
wires.
When
the
wire/connec-
tors
are
free
of
the
thermostat
body,
let
them
fall
free.
k.
At
the
mechanical
assembly,
use
the
8”
phillips
screwdriver
to
remove
the
screw
from
the
green
clamp
that
secures
the
power
cord,
just
to
the
right
of
the
transformer.
Set
the
clamp
and
screw
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Notice
the
location
of
the
clamp
on
the
power
cord,
and
be
sure
that
you
replace
it
at
the
same
location.
I.
Now,
release
the
thermostat
wire
and
connectors
from
the
white
plastic
support
clamp
under
the
front
cabinet
support
pan
and
carefully
pull
the
120
Volt
power
cord
thermostat
wires/
connectors
toward
the
rear
of
the
refrigerator.
If
the
clamp
pulls
away
from
the
support
pan,
use
the
new
clamp
and
adhesive
in
the
kit
when
you
re-install
the
new
power
cord.
m. Be
sure
to
note
the
routing pattern
of
the
complete
120
Volt
harness,
then
carefully
remove
the
harness
from
the
refrigerator,
by
pulling
the
cord
out
and
away
from
the
rear
of
the
stainless
steel
backshield
through
the
rubber
grommet
in
the
motor
guard.
Discard
the
old
power
harness.
n.
Assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedure.
3-10.
Door
Gasket
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241280)
a.
Special
equipment
needed
Hand
roller;
36-inch
square
cardboard
sheet;
36-inch
square
table/bench.
NOTE:
The
gasket
is
non-adhesive.
b.
Place
the
cardboard
on
the
table
to
protect
the
refrigerator
door
during
gasket
replacement.
CAUTION
BE
SURE
TO
SUPPORT
THE
DOOR
DURING
THIS
PROCEDURE,
TO
PREVENT
DAMAGE
TO
THE
DOOR
OR
INJURY.
c.
Remove
the
hinge-pin
from
the
upper
door
hinge
by
using
the
small
phillips
screwdriver
to
loosen
the
hinge
pin,
then carefully
lift
the
refrigerator
door
and
place
it
front-down
on
the
cardboard
surface.
d.
Set
the
hinge
pin
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
e.
To
remove
the old
gasket,
start
at
one
corner
of
the
door,
using
your
hands
only,
steadily
pull
the
arrowhead-shaped
retainer
cross-section
from
the
aluminum,
door-channel.
When
you
-have
completely
removed
the
gasket,
discard
it.
f.
To
install
the
replacement
gasket,
start
at
one
corner
of
aluminum
door
channel,
and
press
the
corresponding
corner
of
the
new
gasket
retaining
arrowhead
into
the
channel
with
sufficient
force
to
seat
the
shoulders
of
the
arrowhead
into
the
channel.
g.
When
the
corner
is
fully
engaged,
use the
hand
roller
to
roll/push
the
remainder
of
the
new
door
gasket
into
the
retaining
channel.
h.
Inspect
the
installed
door
gasket
to
insure
that
the
entire
length
is
seated
in
the
retainer
channel,
and
that
the
gasket
is
undamaged.
Adjust
as
necessary.
i.
Re-assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
procedure
3-10a-e,
above.
3-11.
Thermostat
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42240589).
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
to
allow
easy
access
to
both
front
and
back.
b.
Remove
the
plastic
grill
in
front,
below
the
door,
by
using
a
phillips
screwdriver
to
withdraw
the
two
retainer
screws.
Put
the
grill
and
screws
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
-
13:
c.
Loosen
and
remove
the
two
phillips
screws
holding
the
thermostat
in
place.
Discard
the
screws
(use
screws
from
the
service
kit
for
re-assembly),
pull
the
molded
electrical
connectors
away
from
the
thermostat
body,
and
pull
the
green
ground
wire
free
of
the
thermostat.
Let
the
old
thermo-
stat.
body
hang
free.
It is
now
suspended
from
its
aluminum
capillary
sensor
tube,
which
runs
back
to
the
right
lower
corner,
then
up
to
the
evaporator/freezer
section,
with
the
refrigerant
copper
lines.
d.
At
the
rear,
remove
the
cabinet
back, using
the
phillips
screwdriver
to
remove
the
mounting
screws.
Take
the
back
off,
and
set
the
screws
(12)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB.
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES,
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU
HAVE
IT
PULLED
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
e.
Remove
the
stainless
steel
backshield
by
removing
the
five
phillips
screws
holding
the
back-
shield
in
place.
Put
the
shield
and
screws
(5)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
f.
Open
the
refrigerator
door,
remove
the
drip
tray,
and
set
it
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
g.
With
a
phillips
screwdriver,
dismount
the
freezer
door
by
removing
the
left
and
right
shoul-
der
screws,
with
springs,
and
left
and
right
hinge
mounting
screws.
Set the
screws
aside
for
re-assem-
bly
later.
Now
remove
the
three
phillips
screws
attaching
the
evaporator
plate
to
the
ceiling
of
the
freezer
compartment.
This
allows
the
refrigerator’s
cold
plate
(evaporator)
to
hang
free
by
the
refri-
gerant
line
copper
tubing
harness.
h.
The
thermostat
sensing
thermobulb
is
the
looped
end
of
the
capillary
tube,
clamped
to
a
plate
that
is
mounted
on
the
right
rear
side
evaporator,
attached
by
the
phillips
screw
at
that
loca-
tion.
Remove
the
screw
holding
the
thermobulb
clamp
in
place,
then
set
the
clamp
and
screw
aside
for
later
re-assembly
--
if
they
are
undamaged.
If
they
are
damaged,
use
parts
from
the
service
kit
for
re-assembly.
i.
The
thermostat
thermobulb
loop
is
now
accessible
behind
the
cold
plate.
Reach
up
and
be-
hind
the
cold
plate
(evaporator),
grasp
the
thermobulb,
and
pull
it
away
and
downward,
straightening
the
loop
in
the
tube
in
the
process.
j.
Go
to
the
rear
of
the
refrigerator,
and
remove
the
thermostat’s
thermobulb
tubing
from
the
cabinet
interior
by
pulling
the
tubing
out
and
away
from
the
exposed
back
of
the
refrigerator.
(There
will
probably
be
two
sections
of
refrigerator
putty
applied
around
the
tubing
at
the
top
and
bottom
of
the
refrigerator
back.
Remove
this
putty,
and
replace
the
putty
during
re-assembly,
to
maintain
insulation.)
When
the
tubing
is
clear
of
the
cabinet,
let
it
hang
free.
k.
Remove
the
thermostat
body
and
its
attached
tubing
by
pulling
the
thermostat
body
out
and
away
from
the
front
of
the
cabinet.
Be
sure
that
the
thermostat
tubing
is
straight,
and
does
not
catch
or
hang
up
on
any
refrigerator
parts
as
it
is
pulled
free.
Discard
the
old
thermostat
and
it’s
tubing.
|.
Re-assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedure.
Be
sure
to
do
the
following:
1.
When
routing
the
thermostat
tubing
back
to
the
evaporator
be
sure
that
there
are
no
kinks,
that
all
bends
are
smooth,
that
the
tubing
does
not
rest
on
the
condenser,
fan
assembly,
trans-
former,
or
compressor.
2.
When
removing
the
old
thermostat
and
tubing,
notice
the
method
of
routing
the
tubing,
and
use
it
as
a
guideline
for
routing
the
new
thermostat
and
tubing.
3.
Also,
re-seal
with
refrigerator
putty
and
protect
all
openings
and
cut-outs
in
the
refriger-
ator.
4.
For
ease
of
installation
with
the
thermostat
thermobulb
clamp,
form
the
end
of
the
thermostat
tubing
into
a
J-shaped
loop
about
3
to
4
inches
long
by
3/8
inch
to
1/2
inch
wide,
no
wider
than
the
clamp.
This
provides
the
best
contact
between
the
sensor
area
and
the
evaporator
shell,
to
give
the
most
accurate
temperature
feedback
to
the
thermostat.
3-12.
Front
Glide
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241281).
CAUTION
Be
sure
that
the
refrigerator
is
empty,
and
that
you
have
it
supported
at
all
times
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
to
allow
easy
access
to
front
and
back,
and
on
a
work
surface
that
allows
you
to
place
the
refrigerator
with
either
the
front
or
back
end
projecting
about
six
inches
beyond
the
edge.
This
provides
access
to
the
glides.
b.
For
the
front
glides,
remove
the
plastic
front
grill
under
the
door,
by
using
the
small
phillips
screwdriver
to
remove
the
two
screws
retaining
the
grill.
Set
the
parts aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Carefully
supporting
the
refrigerator,
push
it
forward
so
that
the
front
glides
project
about
six
inches
beyond
the
edge.
c.
Use
the
combination
wrench
to
break
loose
and
turn
the
nut
securing
each
front
glide’s
threaded
shaft,
while
applying
the
channel-lock
pliers
to
the
glide’s
foot
to
prevent
rotation.
When
each
nut
is
sufficiently
loose,
simply
spin
it
off,
using
the
other
hand
to
fix
the
glide’s
foot.
d.
Discard
the
old/damaged
glides,
but
set
the
nuts
aside
for later
re-assembly.
e.
Assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedures.
3-13.
Rear
Glide
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241281).
a.
Use
the
3”
-
4”
phillips
screwdriver
to
remove
the
mounting
screws
from
the
cabinet
back.
Set the
back
and
the
screws
(12)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
b.
Remove
the
metal
motor
guard
by
pulling
the
motor
guard
out
and
away
from
the
cabinet.
Set
the
guard
aside
for later
re-assembly.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB.
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES.
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU
HAVE
IT
PULLED
ABOUT
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
c.
Using
a
phillips
screwdriver,
loosen
and
remove
the
three
screws
securing
the
mechanical
assembly
baseplate
to
the
bottom
of
the
refrigerator,
the
upper
fan
motor
support
bracket
screw
then
set
the
screws
(4)
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
Now
loosen
the
cabinet
ground
screw
(fig.
3-1,
No.
13)
so
that
it
clears
the
bottom
of
the
refrigerator
compartment.
This
makes
it
easier
to
move
the
me-
chanical
assembly
baseplate.
d.
Use
the
large
phillips
screwdriver
to
loosen
and
remove
from
the
backside
of
the
transformer
the
two
remaining
screws.
Set
the
screws
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
You
can
now
push
the
trans-
former/power
cord
forward
and
away
from
the
left
rear
glide
nut
assembly.
CAUTION
Be
sure that
the
refrigerator
is
empty,
and
that
you
have
it
supported
at
all
times.
e.
Move
the
refrigerator
so
that
the
rear
glides
project
over
the
end
of
the
work
surface
about
six
inches.
f.
Use
the
combination
wrench
to
break
loose
and
turn
the
nut
securing
each
front
glide’s
threaded
shaft,
while
applying
the
channel-lock
pliers
to
the
glide’s
foot
to
prevent
rotation.
When
each
nut
is
sufficiently
loose,
simply
spin
it
off,
using
the
other
hand
to
fix
the
glide's
foot.
g.
Discard
the
old/damaged
glides,
but
set
the
nuts
aside
for
later
re-assembly.
h.
Assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedures.
3-14.
Freezer
Door
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42240576)
a.
Open
the
refrigerator
door.
b.
Use
a
phillips
screwdriver
to
loosen
and
remove
the
left
and
right
shoulder
screws
with
springs,
and
the
left
and
right
hinge
mounting
screws.
Notice
how
the
springs
are
positioned.
с.
If
the
screws
are
damaged,
discard
them,
and
use
screws
from
the
service
assembly
kit
for
re-assembly.
If
not,
use
the
old
screws.
d.
Discard
the
old
freezer
door.
e.
Re-assembly
is
the
reverse
of
the
above
procedure.
3-15.
For
the
assemblies
listed
below,
DO
NOT
attempt
repair
below
depot
level.
Send
the
entire
refrigerator
to
the
authorized
depot
level
agency
for
repair
or
replacement.
*
Compressor
Condenser
Cold
Plate
(evaporator)
(The
evaporator
encloses
the
upper
part
of
the
freezer
compartment)
Refrigerant
copper
tubing
Refrigerator
cabinet
and/or
the
hinged
cabinet
handles.
*
*
3-16.
Defrosting.
To
defrost
the
refrigerator:
a.
Place
all
perishables
from
the
freezer/refrigerator
to
another
refrigerator.
b.
Turn
the
thermostat
OF
F.
c.
Open
the
refrigerator
door.
d.
CAUTION
Do
not
use
any
sharp
objects
to
remove
ice
from
the
evaporator
or
any
other
part
of
the
refrigerator.
e.
When
defrosting
is
complete,
take
out
and
empty
the
drip
tray,
then
wipe
down
the
interior
of
the
refrigerator.
f.
Close
the
door,
reset
the
thermostat,
and
wait
for
at
least
an
hour
before
you
replace
com-
modities
in
the
refrigerator.
-16L
CHAPTER
4
REPLACEMENT
PARTS
LIST
4-1.
INTRODUCTION.
4-2.
The
parts
list
is
in
tabular
form,
with four
columns:
Reference
designation,
part
number,
description,
and
quantity.
a.
Reference
designation:
the
figure
number,
and
call
out
number
on
that
figure
for
parts
shown
in
the
manual.
If
there
is
no
reference
designation
number,
the
part
is
not
illustrated.
b.
Part
number:
the
Marvel
Industries
part
number,
or
commodity
code,
if
applicable.
c.
Description:
a
brief
functional
description
of
the
part,
with
dimensions,
other
part
num-
bers,
or
other
helpful
information,
d.
Quantity:
the
number
required
for
system
operation.
4-3.
The
part
numbers
are
grouped
as
follows:
Refrigerator
(top
assembly),
the
service
assemblies
required
for
normal
operation
and
maintenance,
and
then
separate
parts.
Where
attaching
parts
are
part
of
the
assembly,
they
are
preceded
by
(attaching
parts),
with
a
short
dashed
line
and
asterisk
to
indicate
the
end
of
the
attaching
parts
for
a
given
service
assembly.
REFERENCE
DESIGNA-
TION
PART
NUMBER
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
QUANTITY
4-1,No.10
42041276
Refrigerator
cabinet
assembly
1
41000008
Refrigerator
putty
(sealing
compound)
1
Ib.
4-1,
No.
4
42240576
Freezer
door
service
assembly
i
4-1,
No.
4
42050077
Evaporator
door
assembly
1
(attaching
parts)
41000402
Spring,
evaporator
door,
left
1
41000403
Spring,
evaporator
door,
right
1
08204907
No.
10-32
x
3/4”
shoulder
screw
2
4-1,No.7
42240586
Door
service
assembly
1
42030460
Door
assembly
1
(attaching
parts)
4-1,
No.
5
41001355
Hinge
pin
2
41001481
Standard
hinge
1
41001482
Standard
hinge
1
4-1,
No.
1
42240589
Thermostat
service
assembly
1
41001519
Thermostat,
standard
1
41002094
Thermostat
knob
1
41001389
Wire
harness,
thermostat
ground
1
(attaching
parts)
41001860
Thermostat
clamp
1
08204884
No.
10-32
x
1/2”
screw
1
08204886
No.
6-20
machine
screw
1
08205115
No,
10
ext.
tooth
lockwasher
1
42241277
Fan
service
assembly
1
4-3,No.6,7
42181221
Fan
assembly
1
(attaching
parts)
41003619
No.
10-32
screw
3
08205134
Washer
2
*
42241278
Transformer/power
cord
service
assembly
1
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