Marvel 4570105 User manual

OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
_ ОЕ
MECHANICAL FIELD WARD
REFRIGERATOR
NSN 4110-01-291-7046
MARVEL MODEL
#4570105 - MODIFIED - 230/115 VOLT, 60/50 Hz.
CONTRACT #DLA-120-89-C-8509
MARVEL INDUSTRIES
DIVISION OF NORTHLAND CORPORATION
P.O. Box 997
Richmond, Indiana 47375
Tel. [phone]
P/N 41003786

TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER/PARAGRAPH PAGE
1
25
. Maintenance .
. Replacement Parts List
. Diagrams
ntroduction
1. Introduction..
2 Warning
4 Organization of the Manual
5 Purpose of the Refrigerator.
6 Description........
8 Specifications . . ..
9
1
ml
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 Required Tools...
1
Operation
2-1 Introduction
2-3 Unpacking Procedure ..
2-4 Installation
2-5 Operation and Theory of Operation ...
3-1 Introduction.....
33 Зав iia ee
3-4 Preventive Maintenance. .
3-5 Troubleshooting
3-6 Corrective Maintenance Procedures. .
3-7 Fan Assembly Replacement .......
3-8 Transformer Power Cord Replacement .
3-9 120 Volt Power Cord Replacement. .
3-10 Door Gasket Replacement. .
3-11 Thermostat Replacement . .
3-12 Front Glide Replacement..
3-13 Rear Glide Replacement .
3-14 Freezer Door Replacement
3-15 Depot-Level Repair-or-Replace Assemblies . . .
316 DERS um. ma a aa o Pa rote see gua ate aerial! when АНИ
1. Utroducton -<= 8 au 8.4 5M é
5-1 Introduction

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE NUMBER PAGE
Refrigerator,FrontView...................................l 02
Refrigerator, Rear View
Refrigerator Functional Block Diagram........................ 06
Mechanical Assembly ..............
Refrigerator, Front View.
Refrigerator, Rear View
Mechanical Assembly: szscaças een μα ο ας
Refrigerator Wiring Diagram ............................... 22
の
で
や
の
い
ーー
SEL
Ss
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE NUMBER
ПИ ООС e ey ee ine am за бо ао ро: зе con
1-2 Required Tools

CHAPTER 1
INTRODUCTION
1-1. INTRODUCTION.
1-2. This Operation and Maintenance Manual gives you the information necessary for using and
maintaining the Mechanical and Biological Refrigerator, NSN 4110-01-180-3420. The manual includes
information for operation, preventive maintenance, and corrective maintenance.
WARNING
WHEN THE REFRIGERANT LINE HAS BEEN OPENED, OR FOR ANY
OPERATION REQUIRING OPENING THE REFRIGERANT LINE ONLY
QUALIFIED MAINTENANCE PERSONNEL, USING PROCEDURES AND
EQUIPMENT SPECIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER OR BY DEPOT-LEVEL
AUTHORITIES, SHOULD WORK ON THE REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
ANY MOISTURE THAT IS ALLOWED INTO THE REFRIGERATION LINES
WILL COMBINE WITH THE FLUORINE AND CHLORINE REFRIGERANT
TO PRODUCE HYDROCHLORIC ACID, AN EXTREMELY POWERFUL AND
CORROSIVE ACID.
1-3. All procedures in this manual refer to the electrical and mechanical elements of operation and
maintenance.
1-4. Organization of the Manual. As shown in the Table of Contents, this manual is organized as
follows:
Chapter 1: INTRODUCTION. Provides information on Organization of the manual, purpose
of the refrigerator, description and specifications for the refrigerator, list of required equipment, and
safety information.
Chapter 2: OPERATION. Tells you how to unpack, install, and operate the refrigerator, with
a brief theory of operation.
Chapter 3: MAINTENANCE. Details the procedures for preventive and corrective maintenance
of the refrigerator.
Chapter 4: PARTS LIST. Lists, by assemblies, the replacement parts for the refrigerator, with
part numbers and illustrations.
Chapter 5: DIAGRAMS. Contains all illustrations cited in the text but not otherwise included.
1-5. Purpose of the Refrigerator. The refrigerator is to be used as a refrigerator-freezer at ward
level in field hospitals as designated by the Department of Defense.
1-6. Description. Refer to fig. 1-1 and 1-2. The refrigerator is light weight and portable, designed
for field operations. Providing 4.5 cubic feet of refrigeration and freezing space, the refrigerator
incorporates three shelves, drip pan, a 0.7 cubic-foot freezer compartment, adjustable thermostat,
carrying handles, glide-feet, and corrosion-resisting steel shield for mounting over rear mechanism
openings. The refrigerator compartment operates over a temperature range of 34 to 42 degrees
Fahrenheit, and the freezer compartment operates over a range of 12 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The
refrigerator has a 220/110 VAC step-down transformer; it can operate from either a 220 or 110
VAC, 60/50 Hz source. Fig. 1-2, No. 1, 2, 3.
1-7. The outer shell of the refrigerator is 1/32nd inch carbon steel with olive drab finish. The inner
shell and door liner are plastic. The door is trimmed with anodized aluminum and has a magnetic
latch. There is an additional door - security snap fastener located at the upper left corner for use
during transport.

Fig. 1-1. Refrigerator, Front View
1. Thermostat (behind grill)
2. Crisper shelf
3. Drip tray
4. Freezer door
5. Hinge pin
6. Door gasket
7. Door
8. Wire shelf
9. Crisper tray
10. Cabinet assembly

Fig. 1-2. Refrigerator, Rear View
1. Transformer 220 Volt line 4. Cabinet back cover
2. Transformer 120 Volt outlet 5. Stainless steel backshield
3. 120 Volt power cord (for mechanical assembly)

1-8.
Specifications.
Table
1-1
lists
the
complete
specifications
and
parameters
for
the
refrigerator,
NSN
4110-01-291-7046.
Table 1-1
Parameter
Specification
Acceptable
input
voltages
110/220
VAC.
Step-down
transformer
provided
for
use
with
220 VAC source.
Acceptable input freguencies 60/50 Hz.
Power
consumption
240
watts
nominal;
1650
watts
maximum
surge
Line
current
maximum
15
amps
inrush
at
110
V;
7.5
amps
inrush
220
V
Weight 106 Ibs.
Volume, internal 6.1 cubic feet
Outer
dimensions
35
1/4”
H
x
25
3/8”
Wx
24
1/16”
D
Internal volume
Freezer 0.7 cubic feet, minimum
Refrigerator 4.5 cubic feet, minimum
Pull-down times at ambient
temperature of
120 degrees F: 3.0 hours
100 degrees F. 1% hour
77 degrees F. % hour
Nominal weight and volume
in shipping container
Weight 135 Ibs.
Volume 16.8 cubic feet
Dimensions 38%" H x 28” W x 27” D
Type of refrigerant R-12
Weight of full charge of refrigerant 4.7 oz. (0.29 Ibs.)
1-9. Required Tools. Table 1-2 lists all of the tools required for normal use and maintenance of the
refrigerator.
Table 1-2
Description No. Req'd
Phillips head screwdriver (3'’-4” long) 1
Phillips head screwdriver (8" long)
Flatblade screwdriver (small, approximately 1/8” - wide blade)
Hand roller
36” x 36” Cardboard sheet
36” x 36” Table or bench
Channel-lock adjustable pliers
Combination open end/box end wrenches
Any standard multimeter for checking voltages and continuity of circuits
For tools and associated equipment used in maintenance procedures NOT described in this manual,
refer to Depot-level maintenance organization or contact the manufacturer: Marvel Industries,
P.O. Box 997, Richmond, Indiana 47375.
1-10. Safety. ALWAYS observe the warning notice shown after paragraph 1-2, above. Additionally,
be careful of power sources. 110 volts can kill you. If your system uses 220 volts with a step-down
transformer, being very careful is even more important. For connection to a 220 VAC source, be sure
to use the step-down transformer, as detailed in par. 2.4f, below.
1-11. When the refrigerator is in operation, the condenser (radiator) can get hot enough to burn your
skin.
1-12. NEVER use a two-wire cord or power outlet with this refrigerator. Such a practice can produce
shocks and will damage operating elements of the system.

CHAPTER 2
OPERATION
2-1. INTRODUCTION.
2-2. This chapter details unpacking, installation, and operation of the refrigerator, with a brief
explanation of the theory of operation.
2-3. Unpacking. Unpacking is easy. The refrigerator is shipped in a heavy-duty cardboard carton,
with slip-off top and bottom covers held on by steel straps. To unpack:
Stand the carton upright.
With tin snips, cut the lower steel band.
Pull all four sides of the bottom cover away and down from the sides of the carton.
Lifting from the top, pull the carton up and off of the refrigerator.
Dispose of the carton, dust off the refrigerator, and it is ready for installation.
capo»
2-4. Installation. Getting the refrigerator ready to operate is very simple. Dispose of the packing
material, and position the refrigerator where you want it. Then:
a. Be sure that the cord provided is long enough to reach a safely grounded three-prong outlet.
Connect the plug to the wall socket at the end of this installation procedure. For a wall outlet that is
220 VAC, the wall socket cord must go to the transformer, located at the back lower left corner,
shown in fig. 3-1. Then plug the output line of the transformer to the input line of the refrigerator,
shown in fig. 1-2.
b. The four glides (feet) of the refrigerator are non-adjustable. If the refrigerator is on a level
surface, the refrigerator will be level.
c. At the upper left front corner there is a snap-fastened safety strap which holds the door
closed during shipment. To open the door, unsnap the safety strap and pull on the handle; the door
has a magnetic latch.
d. At the lower left front corner, behind the grill, which is held on by two small screws, you
will find the thermostat. The aluminum sensor line attached to the thermostat runs up the back of
the refrigerator to the upper right rear corner. The sensor lies between the rear panel and the insula-
tion. The dial of the thermostat has an adjustment range of 1 to 7 (7 is the coldest setting. It is pre-
set at the factory for 3%), providing the normal operating temperature. Varying ambient temperatures
may require re-setting the thermostat dial for your installation.
e. Finally, before making the power connection, be sure that the interior of the refrigerator
is clean.
f. Connect the power cord to the appropriate source: 110 or 220 volts AC, nominal. For a
220 VAC source, plug the transformer inlet line into the source, then connect the 120 Volt line into
the transformer outlet. For 120 VAC source, plug the 120 Volt line directly to the source.
2-5. Operation and Theory of Operation. Once prepared as specified above, the refrigerator func-
tions automatically. The following is a brief explanation of how the refrigerator works. This explana-
tion will enable you to operate and maintain the refrigerator most efficiently.
2-6. Refer to fig. 2-1, a functional diagram of the system, and to figs. 4-1, 4-2, 4-3, which show the
components and their location in the refrigerator. To follow the explanation, refer to these figures.
a. The thermostat (located behind the grill at the lower left front of the refrigerator) monitors
temperatures inside the refrigerator. When the sensor shows a temperature warmer than the adjusted
setting, the thermostat’s contacts close, completing the circuit that operates the compressor. The
compressor takes in the warm low pressure gas and converts it to high pressure gas. Passing through
the condenser (radiator), the chlorine/fluorine refrigerant gives off heat to the air surrounding the
condenser, primarily through the cooling fins, like any radiator. During this process the high pressure
gas changes state as it loses heat, coming out of the condenser as a high pressure liquid. The dryer/
filter blocks particles, and contains a desiccant to remove any water from the system. Water is a
hazard because it can combine with chlorine/fluorine refrigerant to form hydrochloric acid, a power-
ful, toxic substance.
b. From the output side of the Filter/Dryer, the high pressure liquid flows through the evapor-
ator, which in fact is incorporated into the walls of the freezer compartment of the refrigerator.
In this process, the refrigerant lowers temperatures by absorbing heat from the interior of the refriger-
ator, changing in the process to low pressure liquid, then to a low pressure gas.
-5-

c.
On
fig.
2-1,
look
at
the
PTC
Starter
Relay.
This
relay
performs
two
important
functions:
It
brings
both
the
thermostat
and
the
condenser
fan
motor
into
the
compressor-start
circuit,
and
it
Provides
the
required
sequence
for
bringing
the
compressor
to
full
power.
When
the
thermostat
closes,
the
circuit
between
the
120
V
power
cord
high
(black)
line
and
the
P8
of
the
PTC
starter
relay,
the
first
surge
of
power
goes
through
the
relay
to
the
start-up
windings
in
the
compressor.
A
pre-set
time
later,
the
voltage
is
switched
to
the
compressor-run
windings.
Also,
the
relay
completes
the
circuit
through
P2
to
the
condenser
fan
motor.
If
the
fan
does
not
run,
the
refrigerator
system
cannot
function.
Connections
are
as
indicated
in
fig.
2-1.
Notice
that
EITHER
fan
motor
line
can
be
connected
to
either
P8
or
P2.
Looking
at
the
connections
you
will
see
that
two
lines go
to
each
pin,
secured
by
a
spade-lug
connection
covered
with
shrink-wrap
‘‘piggy-back”
connectors.
COVER FOR
STARTER RELAY/
RETURN LINE TO
TERMINAL
COMPRESSOR
COMPRESSOR
EN
ACCUMULATOR
Low PRESSURE
LIQUID (CAP, TUBE)
LOW PRESSURE
THERMOSTAT
©
FILTER/DRYER
HIGH PRESSURE
LIQUID
CONDENSER FAN
ie0V MOTOR
CORD
TRANSFORMER
220V LINE
x FOR OPERATION WITH 120V SOURCE, DD NOT USE THE TRANSFORMER
Fig. 2-1. Refrigerator Functional Block Diagram
d. The element marked accumulator is a section of the evaporator that acts as a reservoir,
keeping the return line to the compressor filled with low pressure gas.
e. The refrigeration system cannot function with proper operation of the fan.
f. Fig. 2-1 shows a system that uses a 220 Volt source. If your system uses a primary source
of 120 Volts, the transformer is not required: simply plug the 120 VAC power cord directly to the
source.
g. Notice that the 120 V power cord green line and a short green line from one of the com-
pressor’s mounting studs are attached to cabinet ground. See also fig. 3-1, No. 13.
h. Refer to fig. 2-1. It is important to notice that a failure of the PTC starter relay can appear
to be a failure of the compressor. When the relay functions as it should in normal operation, closing
of the thermostat's relays allows 120 VAC to flow from the black lead of the power cord through the
contacts of the thermostat, along the white return lead from the thermostat to relay P8. The relay
operates to start the compressor, then switches voltage to the compressor-run windings. The fan
motor leads to the P8 and P2 “piggy-backs” start the condenser fan motor. The white lead from the
power cord attaches to P2 to complete the circuit. So, a failure of the PTC relay can also look like a
problem with the fan motor.

CHAPTER 3
MAINTENANCE
3-1. INTRODUCTION
3-2. This chapter covers preventive maintenance and corrective maintenance, including a recom-
mended schedule of maintenance and a brief trouble shooting guide.
3-3. SAFETY. In working on this refrigerator, be sure to ALWAYS observe the elements of safety
cited in the general introduction, par. 1-2, and at par. 1-9. Before performing any of the following,
ALWAYS be sure that the refrigerator is unplugged from its power.
3-4. Preventive Maintenance. The following lists periodic preventive maintenance procedures, to be
completed daily, weekly, monthly, and semi-annually to insure continuity of operation and prompt
discovery of problems, or potential problems.
DAILY
Check door gasket for proper seal or damage. If damaged, see par. 3-10.
Check cold plate for heavy frost accumulation. Defrost if frost is more than %” thick. For defrost
procedure, see par. 3-16.
Check that the defrost tray is flush against rear cabinet liner wall. If the defrost tray is damaged,
see par. 3-15.
Check freezer door for correct operation, sealing, and closure. If the freezer door is damaged, see
par. 3-14.
Check commodities in the freezer and refrigerator sections. If necessary, change the thermostat
setting (changes temperatures in both compartments). If the thermostat does not work, see par. 3-11.
WEEKLY
Check the refrigerator for scratches or scrapes on outside painted surfaces. Repair with touch-up
paint to prevent rusting. See parts list, Chapter 4.
Check glass shelf/crisper tray for cracks or other damage, replace. See parts list.
MONTHLY
Check the refrigerator door gasket for accumulation of dirt or possible damage. If dirty, wipe clean
with a mild detergent. If it is damaged, see par. 3-10.
Check power cord for damage. If it is damaged, see par. 3-8 or 3-9.
Check electrical plugs for damage. In case of damage, see par. 3-8 or 3-9.
Check
fan
motor/compressor
and
transformer
for
correct
operation.
If
there
is
damage,
see
par.
3-15.
Check
shelves,
crisper
trays,
liner
walls,
and
refrigerator
floor
for
dirt
accumulation
and
damage.
Wipe
clean
with
mild
detergent,
In
case
of
damage,
replace
shelves
and
trays
(see
parts
list,
Chapter
4).
If
liner walls or floor are damaged, return refrigerator for depot-level repair/replacement.
SEMI-ANNUALLY
Check
the
condenser
coil,
fan
assembly,
compressor,
and
transformer
for
accumulation
of
dirt/dust.
If
necessary,
clean
with
vacuum
cleaner.
For
removal
of
stainless
steel
backshield
to
gain
access
to
the
mechanical
assembly
compartment,
see
par.
3-7c
and
fig.
1-2.

3-5. Troubleshooting. The following section gives you the procedure for troubleshooting to identify
the cause of problems that might occur in refrigerator operation. In each case, the symptom is follow-
ed by a procedure for eliminating the problem.
120 VOLT (60/50 Hz) POWER GRID SYSTEM
Symptom: Refrigerator does not cool or operate.
Remedy: Is the 120V plugin a 120 VAC outlet? If not, plug it in.
Is the circuit breaker for the 120V outlet open? If so, reset the circuit breaker.
Is the thermostat dial turned to an operational position (not OFF)? If not, start with a
setting of 3% and turn to the setting you want. If the thermostat still does not start the
refrigerator, check the thermostat for continuity: turn the dial fully counter-clockwise
and check resistance between the two electrical connectors of the thermostat. It should
be an open circuit. Turn the dial clockwise until you hear the click of the contacts inside.
From this point on, resistance between the connectors should be approximately zero
Ohms. If the thermostat checks out bad, see par. 3-11 for replacement procedure.
If the system still does not start, with a new thermostat if the old one failed the continuity
test, substitute a new PTC starter relay. Follow par. 3-7 through step f3. Then remove
the piggy-back connectors from relay P8 and P2, pull the relay off the pins holding it to
the compressor at J5, J6, and J7. Install a new relay onto the compressor plug and re-
verse the procedure to connect the system for running.
If the compressor and fan motor still do not run, return the refrigerator to depot for repair
or replacement.
Symptom: Refrigerator operates, but does not cool.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been turned on for at least an hour?
ls the thermostat set to a low enough temperature? If not, try a lower setting.
If the refrigerator still does not cool, open the door and touch the cold plate (evaporator).
If the cold plate has frost and is cold to the touch, see par. 3-11, for replacing the thermo-
stat.
If the cold plate is warm, return the refrigerator to depot for further checks and/or replace-
ment.
Symptom: Articles in the refrigerator and/or freezer section are too warm.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been turned on for at least an hour?
Is the thermostat set to a low enough temperature? If not, try a higher setting.
If the refrigerator still does not cool, open the door and touch the cold plate (evaporator).
If the cold plate has frost and is cold to the touch, see par. 3-11, for replacing the thermo-
stat,
If the cold plate is warm, return the refrigerator to depot for further checks and/or replace-
ment.
Symptom: Articles in the refrigerator and/or freezer section are too cold.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been on for at least an hour?
Is the thermostat setting too high? If so, turn the dial to a lower setting, and let the refrig-
erator run for at least two hours to check temperature. If it is still too cold, reduce setting
to a lower number.
If changing the thermostat setting does not warm the refrigerator, see par. 3-11, for replace-
ment of the thermostat.
220 VOLT (60/50 Hz) POWER GRID SYSTEM
Symptom: Refrigerator does not cool or operate.
Remedy: Is the 220V electrical plug in a 220 VAC outlet? If not, plug it in.
Is the 120V electrical plug connected to the 120 VAC outlet on the transformer?
15 the circuit breaker for the 220 V outlet open? If so, reset it.
ls the thermostat dial turned to an operational position (not OFF)? If not, start with a
setting of 3% and turn to the setting you want. If the thermostat still does not start the
refrigerator, check the thermostat for continuity: turn the dial fully counter-clockwise
and check resistance between the two electrical connectors of the thermostat. It should
be an open circuit. Turn the dial clockwise until you hear the click of the contacts inside.
Nee

From this point on, resistance between the connectors should be approximately zero
Ohms. If the thermostat checks out bad, see par. 3-11 for replacement procedure.
If
the
system
still
does
not
start,
with
a
new
thermostat
if
the
old
one
failed
the
continuity
test,
substitute
a
new
PTC
starter
relay.
Follow
par.
3-7
through
step
f3.
Then
remove
the
piggy-back
connectors
from
Relay
P8
and
P2,
pull
the
relay
off
the
pins
holding
it
to
the
compressor
at
J5,
J6,
and
J7.
Install
a
new
relay
onto
the
compressor
plug
and
re-
verse the procedure to connect the system for running.
If
the
compressor
and
fan
motor
still
do not
run,
return
the
refrigerator
to
depot
for
repair
or replacement.
Symptom: Refrigerator operates, but does not cool.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been turned on for at least an hour?
Is the thermostat set to a low enough temperature? If not, try a lower setting.
If the refrigerator still does not cool, open the door and touch the cold plate (evaporator).
If the cold plate has frost and is cold to the touch, see par. 3-11 for replacing the thermo-
stat.
If the cold plate is warm, return the refrigerator to depot for further checks and/or replace-
ment.
Symptom: Articles in the refrigerator and/or freezer section are too warm.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been turned on for at least an hour?
Is the thermostat set to a low enough temperature? If not, try a higher setting.
If the refrigerator still does not cool, open the door and touch the cold plate (evaporator).
If the cold plate has frost and is cold to the touch, see par. 3-11, for replacing the thermo-
stat.
If the cold plate is warm, return the refrigerator to depot for further checks and/or replace-
ment.
Symptom: Articles in the refrigerator and/or freezer section are too cold.
Remedy: Has the refrigerator been turned on for at least an hour?
Is the thermostat setting too high? If so, turn the dial to a lower setting, and let the refriger-
ator run for at least two hours to check temperature. If it is still too cold, reduce setting
to a lower number.
If changing the thermostat setting does not warm the refrigerator, see par. 3-11, for replace-
ment of the thermostat.
3-6. Corrective Maintenance Procedures.
CAUTION
Before performing any of the following, be sure that the
refrigerator is unplugged from its power source.
The following are detailed procedures for replacement of specific functional components of the Mar-
vel 61RF Refrigerator, NSN 4110-01-291-7046. Before beginning work, you should have on hand,
at a minimum, the tools recommended in the list at par. 1-9, and the specified replacement part for
the refrigerator. Each separate procedure below tells you what replacement parts to have on hand,
how to remove the defective parts, then install the replacements.
3-7. Fan Assembly Replacement (Service Assembly 42241277).
a. Position the refrigerator for easy access to front and back.
b. Using the 3-4” phillips screwdriver, remove the mounting screws from the cabinet back,
and remove the back. Put the back and the screws (12) aside for later re-assembly. Recessed into the
foam insulation, both the large copper suction return line from the evaporator and the thin capillary
tube carrying cold liquid from the filter/dryer to the evaporator run up to the upper left corner. Under
these lines is the thin aluminum capillary tube/sensor line from the thermostat.
c. Using the 3-4” phillips screwdriver, remove the stainless steel backshield then set the
screws (5) and the backshield aside for re-assembly later.

CAUTION
THE 32-LB MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY IS STILL FULLY ATTACHED TO THE
REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
YOU CAN MOVE THE ASSEMBLY ONLY A FEW INCHES OUT OF THE COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT DANGER OF DAMAGING THE COPPER REFRIGERANT LINES.
BE SURE THAT YOUR WORK SURFACE IS WIDE ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU HAVE IT PULLED ABOUT 4-6 INCHES BACK
FROM ITS OPERATIONAL POSITION, AND ROTATED A FEW DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
d. Refer to fig. 3-1, Refrigerator Mechanical Assembly. The mechanical assembly is comprised
of all the components mounted on the steel baseplate at the lower rear of the refrigerator, fig. 3-1,
No. 14. Dismount the mechanical assembly by removing the four screws, fig. 3-1, No. 8. Three screws
hold the baseplate to the refrigerator cabinet’s reinforcement bar, and the fourth screw is also the
upper fan motor assembly support screw. Set the screws aside for later use.
e. Remove the cabinet ground screw at fig. 3-1, No. 13, or loosen it so that it does not make
contact with the refrigerator cabinet frame. This makes it much easier to slide the mechanical assem-
bly back from it's operational position.
f. Fig. 3-1, No. 15, is the plastic cover for the compressor’s electrical terminal and starter.
Remove the cover as follows:
1. Remove the U-shaped retaining clamp holding the cover onto its support by prying the
clamp back and away from its seated position.
2. Remove the plastic cover by pulling it out and away.
3. Set both clamp and cover aside for re-assembly later.
g. Locate the wire leads from the fan motor and follow them back to the “piggy-back” spade-
lug connectors on the terminal/starter. By gently, steadily pulling on the spade connectors, remove
them from the piggy-back lugs, and set the motor leads aside.
h. Push the piggy-backs firmly back onto the starter terminals so that they are firmly engaged
onto the starter terminals (fig. 2-1, P8 and P2). Also, push the starter firmly into its 3-pin terminal
connection against the side of the compressor. Either motor lead can go to either P8 or P2.
i. Use the 8” phillips screwdriver to loosen and remove the two screws fastening the bottom
of the fan motor bracket to the baseplate. Set the screws aside for later re-assembly. Carefully pull
the fan assembly up and away from the fan guard, toward the compressor, and lift it clear. Discard
the old fan assembly.
j. Assembly is the reverse of the above procedure.
240

16
очоярою
>
13 5
12
Fig,
3-1.
Refrigerator
Mechanical
Assembly
. Compressor
. Condenser
. Transformer
. Fill lines
. Filter/dryer
Fan motor
Fan motor support
. Mechanical assembly
mounting screws
As
. Return from evaporator
10.
ie
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Cold line to evaporator
Condenser
output
to
filter/dryer
Condenser
input
from
compressor
Cabinet ground
Baseplate
Starter relay cover
Glide

3-8.
Transformer/Power
Cord
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241278)
NOTE
IF
THE
TRANSFORMER
POWER
CORD
MUST
BE
REPLACED,
USE
THE
SAME
PROCEDURE
AS
FOR
THE
TRANSFORMER:
THE
CORD
IS
PERMANENTLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
TRANSFORMER
a.
Position
the
refrigerator
for
easy
access
to
front
and
back.
b.
Using
the
3'-4”
phillips
screwdriver,
remove
the
stainless
steel
backshield
then
set
the
screws
(5)
and
the
backshield
aside
for
re-assembly
later.
CAUTION
THE
32-LB
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
IS
STILL
FULLY
ATTACHED
TO
THE
REFRIGERATION
SYSTEM.
YOU
CAN
MOVE
THE
ASSEMBLY
ONLY
A
FEW
INCHES
OUT
OF
THE
COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT
DANGER
OF
DAMAGING
THE
COPPER
REFRIGERANT
LINES.
BE
SURE
THAT
YOUR
WORK
SURFACE
IS
WIDE
ENOUGH
TO
SUPPORT
THE
MECHANICAL
ASSEMBLY
WHEN
YOU
HAVE
IT
PULLED
ABOUT
4-6
INCHES
BACK
FROM
ITS
OPERATIONAL
POSITION,
AND
ROTATED
A
FEW
DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
c. Refer to fig. 3-1, Refrigerator Mechanical Assembly. The mechanical assembly is comprised
of all the components mounted on the steel baseplate at the lower rear of the refrigerator, fig. 3-1,
No. 14. Dismount the mechanical assembly by removing the four screws, fig. 3-1, No. 8. Three screws
hold the baseplate to the refrigerator cabinet’s reinforcement bar, and the fourth screw is also the
upper fan motor assembly support screw. Set the screws aside for later use.
d. Remove the cabinet ground screw at fig. 3-1, No. 13, or loosen it so that it does not make
contact with the refrigerator cabinet frame. This makes it much easier to slide the mechanical assem-
bly back from it’s operational position.
e. Using the 8” phillips screwdriver, loosen and remove the two screws securing the trans-
former to the baseplate (behind the transformer). This detaches the transformer from the mechanical
baseplate. Set the screws aside for later re-assembly.
f. Pull out and away from the stainless steel backshield the rubber grommet through which
the transformer power cord passes, and set the grommet aside for re-assembly.
g. Slide the transformer power cord through the hole in the shield.
h. Discard the old transformer.
i. Re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure.
3-9. 120V Power Cord/Plug Replacement (Service Assembly 42241279)
a. Position the refrigerator for easy access to front and back.
b. Using the 3’-4’’ phillips screwdriver, remove the mounting screws from the cabinet back,
and remove the back. Put the back and the screws (12) aside for later re-assembly. Recessed into the
foam insulation, both the large copper suction return line from the evaporator and the thin capillary
tube carrying cold liquid from the filter/dryer to the evaporator run up to the upper left corner.
Under these lines is the thin aluminum capillary tube/sensor line from the thermostat.
с. Using the 3''-4” phillips screwdriver, remove the stainless steel backshield then set the
screws (5) and the backshield aside for re-assembly later.
CAUTION
THE 32-LB. MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY IS STILL FULLY ATTACHED TO THE
REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
YOU CAN MOVE THE ASSEMBLY ONLY A FEW INCHES OUT OF THE COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT DANGER OF DAMAGING THE COPPER REFRIGERANT LINES.
BE SURE THAT YOUR WORK SURFACE IS WIDE ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU HAVE IT PULLED ABOUT 4-6 INCHES BACK
FROM ITS OPERATIONAL POSITION, AND ROTATED A FEW DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
d. Refer to fig. 3-1, Refrigerator Mechanical Assembly. The mechanical assembly is com-
prised of all the components mounted on the steel baseplate at the lower rear of the refrigerator,
fig. 3-1, No. 14. Dismount the mechanical assembly by removing the four screws, fig. 3-1, No. 8.
Three
screws
hold
the
baseplate
to
the
refrigerator
cabinet’s
reinforcement
bar,
and
the
fourth
screw
is also the upper fan motor assembly support screw. Set the screws aside for later use.
2

e. Remove the cabinet ground screw at fig. 3-1, No. 13, or loosen it so that it does not make
contact with the refrigerator cabinet frame. This makes it much easier to slide the mechanical assem-
bly back from its operational position.
f. Fig. 3-1, No. 15, is the plastic cover for the compressor’s electrical terminal and starter.
Remove the cover as follows:
1. Remove the U-shaped retaining clamp holding the cover onto its support by prying the
clamp back and away from its seated position.
2. Remove the plastic cover by pulling it out and away.
3. Set both clamp and cover aside for re-assembly later.
g. Remove the power cord white lead from the piggy-back connector on PTC starter relay, P2.
h. Loosen and remove the power cord green line from the cabinet ground screw, fig. 3-1, No.
13:
i. In front, below the door, dismount the plastic grill, by loosening the two phillips screws
and removing them. Put the grill and screws aside for later re-assembly.
j. The thermostat is located behind the left corner of the grill. It attaches to the 120V power
cord with two spade-lug connectors. Reach behind the thermostat and gently pull the two connectors
off by pulling them straight to the rear. DO NOT pull directly on the wires. When the wire/connec-
tors are free of the thermostat body, let them fall free.
k. At the mechanical assembly, use the 8” phillips screwdriver to remove the screw from the
green clamp that secures the power cord, just to the right of the transformer. Set the clamp and screw
aside for later re-assembly. Notice the location of the clamp on the power cord, and be sure that you
replace it at the same location.
I. Now, release the thermostat wire and connectors from the white plastic support clamp
under the front cabinet support pan and carefully pull the 120 Volt power cord thermostat wires/
connectors toward the rear of the refrigerator. If the clamp pulls away from the support pan, use the
new clamp and adhesive in the kit when you re-install the new power cord.
m. Be sure to note the routing pattern of the complete 120 Volt harness, then carefully remove
the harness from the refrigerator, by pulling the cord out and away from the rear of the stainless steel
backshield through the rubber grommet in the motor guard. Discard the old power harness.
n. Assembly is the reverse of the above procedure.
3-10. Door Gasket Replacement (Service Assembly 42241280)
a. Special equipment needed
Hand roller; 36-inch square cardboard sheet; 36-inch square table/bench.
NOTE: The gasket is non-adhesive.
b. Place the cardboard on the table to protect the refrigerator door during gasket replacement.
CAUTION
BE SURE TO SUPPORT THE DOOR DURING THIS PROCEDURE, TO PREVENT
DAMAGE TO THE DOOR OR INJURY.
c. Remove the hinge-pin from the upper door hinge by using the small phillips screwdriver to
loosen the hinge pin, then carefully lift the refrigerator door and place it front-down on the cardboard
surface.
d. Set the hinge pin aside for later re-assembly.
e. To remove the old gasket, start at one corner of the door, using your hands only, steadily
pull the arrowhead-shaped retainer cross-section from the aluminum, door-channel. When you -have
completely removed the gasket, discard it.
f. To install the replacement gasket, start at one corner of aluminum door channel, and press
the corresponding corner of the new gasket retaining arrowhead into the channel with sufficient force
to seat the shoulders of the arrowhead into the channel.
g. When the corner is fully engaged, use the hand roller to roll/push the remainder of the new
door gasket into the retaining channel.
h. Inspect the installed door gasket to insure that the entire length is seated in the retainer
channel, and that the gasket is undamaged. Adjust as necessary.
i. Re-assembly is the reverse of the procedure 3-10a-e, above.
3-11. Thermostat Replacement (Service Assembly 42240589).
a. Position the refrigerator to allow easy access to both front and back.
b.
Remove
the
plastic
grill
in
front,
below
the
door,
by
using
a
phillips
screwdriver
to
withdraw
the two retainer screws. Put the grill and screws aside for later re-assembly.
- 13:

c. Loosen and remove the two phillips screws holding the thermostat in place. Discard the
screws (use screws from the service kit for re-assembly), pull the molded electrical connectors away
from the thermostat body, and pull the green ground wire free of the thermostat. Let the old thermo-
stat. body hang free. It is now suspended from its aluminum capillary sensor tube, which runs back
to the right lower corner, then up to the evaporator/freezer section, with the refrigerant copper lines.
d. At the rear, remove the cabinet back, using the phillips screwdriver to remove the mounting
screws. Take the back off, and set the screws (12) aside for later re-assembly.
CAUTION
THE 32-LB. MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY IS STILL FULLY ATTACHED TO THE
REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
YOU CAN MOVE THE ASSEMBLY ONLY A FEW INCHES OUT OF THE COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT DANGER OF DAMAGING THE COPPER REFRIGERANT LINES,
BE SURE THAT YOUR WORK SURFACE IS WIDE ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU HAVE IT PULLED 4-6 INCHES BACK
FROM ITS OPERATIONAL POSITION, AND ROTATED A FEW DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
e. Remove the stainless steel backshield by removing the five phillips screws holding the back-
shield in place. Put the shield and screws (5) aside for later re-assembly.
f. Open the refrigerator door, remove the drip tray, and set it aside for later re-assembly.
g. With a phillips screwdriver, dismount the freezer door by removing the left and right shoul-
der screws, with springs, and left and right hinge mounting screws. Set the screws aside for re-assem-
bly later. Now remove the three phillips screws attaching the evaporator plate to the ceiling of the
freezer compartment. This allows the refrigerator’s cold plate (evaporator) to hang free by the refri-
gerant line copper tubing harness.
h. The thermostat sensing thermobulb is the looped end of the capillary tube, clamped to a
plate that is mounted on the right rear side evaporator, attached by the phillips screw at that loca-
tion.
Remove the screw holding the thermobulb clamp in place, then set the clamp and screw aside
for later re-assembly -- if they are undamaged. If they are damaged, use parts from the service kit
for re-assembly.
i. The thermostat thermobulb loop is now accessible behind the cold plate. Reach up and be-
hind the cold plate (evaporator), grasp the thermobulb, and pull it away and downward, straightening
the loop in the tube in the process.
j. Go to the rear of the refrigerator, and remove the thermostat’s thermobulb tubing from the
cabinet interior by pulling the tubing out and away from the exposed back of the refrigerator. (There
will probably be two sections of refrigerator putty applied around the tubing at the top and bottom
of the refrigerator back. Remove this putty, and replace the putty during re-assembly, to maintain
insulation.) When the tubing is clear of the cabinet, let it hang free.
k. Remove the thermostat body and its attached tubing by pulling the thermostat body out
and away from the front of the cabinet. Be sure that the thermostat tubing is straight, and does not
catch or hang up on any refrigerator parts as it is pulled free. Discard the old thermostat and it’s
tubing.
|. Re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure. Be sure to do the following:
1. When routing the thermostat tubing back to the evaporator be sure that there are no
kinks,
that
all
bends
are
smooth,
that
the
tubing
does
not
rest
on
the
condenser,
fan
assembly,
trans-
former, or compressor.
2.
When
removing
the
old
thermostat
and
tubing,
notice
the
method
of
routing
the
tubing,
and
use
it
as
a
guideline
for
routing
the
new
thermostat
and
tubing.
3.
Also,
re-seal
with
refrigerator
putty
and
protect
all
openings
and
cut-outs
in
the
refriger-
ator.
4.
For
ease
of
installation
with
the
thermostat
thermobulb
clamp,
form
the
end
of
the
thermostat
tubing
into
a
J-shaped
loop
about
3
to
4
inches
long
by
3/8
inch
to
1/2
inch
wide,
no
wider
than
the
clamp.
This
provides
the
best
contact
between
the
sensor
area
and
the
evaporator
shell,
to
give
the
most
accurate
temperature
feedback
to
the
thermostat.
3-12.
Front
Glide
Replacement
(Service
Assembly
42241281).
CAUTION
Be
sure
that
the
refrigerator
is
empty,
and
that
you
have
it
supported
at
all
times

a. Position the refrigerator to allow easy access to front and back, and on a work surface
that allows you to place the refrigerator with either the front or back end projecting about six inches
beyond the edge. This provides access to the glides.
b. For the front glides, remove the plastic front grill under the door, by using the small phillips
screwdriver to remove the two screws retaining the grill. Set the parts aside for later re-assembly.
Carefully supporting the refrigerator, push it forward so that the front glides project about six inches
beyond the edge.
c. Use the combination wrench to break loose and turn the nut securing each front glide’s
threaded shaft, while applying the channel-lock pliers to the glide’s foot to prevent rotation. When
each nut is sufficiently loose, simply spin it off, using the other hand to fix the glide’s foot.
d. Discard the old/damaged glides, but set the nuts aside for later re-assembly.
e. Assembly is the reverse of the above procedures.
3-13. Rear Glide Replacement (Service Assembly 42241281).
a. Use the 3” - 4” phillips screwdriver to remove the mounting screws from the cabinet back.
Set the back and the screws (12) aside for later re-assembly.
b. Remove the metal motor guard by pulling the motor guard out and away from the cabinet.
Set the guard aside for later re-assembly.
CAUTION
THE 32-LB. MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY IS STILL FULLY ATTACHED TO THE
REFRIGERATION SYSTEM.
YOU CAN MOVE THE ASSEMBLY ONLY A FEW INCHES OUT OF THE COMPARTMENT
WITHOUT DANGER OF DAMAGING THE COPPER REFRIGERANT LINES.
BE SURE THAT YOUR WORK SURFACE IS WIDE ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE
MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU HAVE IT PULLED ABOUT 4-6 INCHES BACK
FROM ITS OPERATIONAL POSITION, AND ROTATED A FEW DEGREES
HORIZONTALLY.
c. Using a phillips screwdriver, loosen and remove the three screws securing the mechanical
assembly baseplate to the bottom of the refrigerator, the upper fan motor support bracket screw then
set the screws (4) aside for later re-assembly. Now loosen the cabinet ground screw (fig. 3-1, No. 13)
so that it clears the bottom of the refrigerator compartment. This makes it easier to move the me-
chanical assembly baseplate.
d. Use the large phillips screwdriver to loosen and remove from the backside of the transformer
the two remaining screws. Set the screws aside for later re-assembly. You can now push the trans-
former/power cord forward and away from the left rear glide nut assembly.
CAUTION
Be sure that the refrigerator is empty, and that you
have it supported at all times.
e. Move the refrigerator so that the rear glides project over the end of the work surface about
six inches.
f.
Use
the
combination
wrench
to
break
loose
and
turn
the
nut
securing
each
front
glide’s
threaded shaft, while applying the channel-lock pliers to the glide’s foot to prevent rotation. When
each nut is sufficiently loose, simply spin it off, using the other hand to fix the glide's foot.
g. Discard the old/damaged glides, but set the nuts aside for later re-assembly.
h. Assembly is the reverse of the above procedures.
3-14. Freezer Door Replacement (Service Assembly 42240576)
a. Open the refrigerator door.
b.
Use
a
phillips
screwdriver
to
loosen
and
remove
the
left
and
right
shoulder
screws
with
springs,
and
the
left
and
right
hinge
mounting
screws.
Notice
how
the
springs
are
positioned.
с.
If
the
screws
are
damaged,
discard
them,
and
use
screws
from
the
service
assembly
kit
for
re-assembly. If not, use the old screws.
d. Discard the old freezer door.
e. Re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure.

3-15. For the assemblies listed below, DO NOT attempt repair below depot level. Send the entire
refrigerator to the authorized depot level agency for repair or replacement.
* Compressor
Condenser
Cold Plate (evaporator)
(The evaporator encloses the upper part of the freezer compartment)
Refrigerant copper tubing
Refrigerator cabinet and/or the hinged cabinet handles.
*
*
3-16. Defrosting.
To defrost the refrigerator:
a. Place all perishables from the freezer/refrigerator to another refrigerator.
b. Turn the thermostat OF F.
c. Open the refrigerator door.
d. CAUTION
Do not use any sharp objects to remove ice from the evaporator or any other part of the
refrigerator.
e. When defrosting is complete, take out and empty the drip tray, then wipe down the interior
of the refrigerator.
f. Close the door, reset the thermostat, and wait for at least an hour before you replace com-
modities in the refrigerator.
-16L

CHAPTER 4
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
4-1. INTRODUCTION.
4-2. The parts list is in tabular form, with four columns: Reference designation, part number,
description, and quantity.
a. Reference designation: the figure number, and call out number on that figure for parts
shown in the manual. If there is no reference designation number, the part is not illustrated.
b. Part number: the Marvel Industries part number, or commodity code, if applicable.
c. Description: a brief functional description of the part, with dimensions, other part num-
bers, or other helpful information,
d. Quantity: the number required for system operation.
4-3. The part numbers are grouped as follows: Refrigerator (top assembly), the service assemblies
required for normal operation and maintenance, and then separate parts. Where attaching parts are
part of the assembly, they are preceded by (attaching parts), with a short dashed line and asterisk to
indicate the end of the attaching parts for a given service assembly.
REFERENCE
DESIGNA-
TION PART
NUMBER NUMBER DESCRIPTION QUANTITY
4-1,No.10 42041276 Refrigerator cabinet assembly 1
41000008 Refrigerator putty (sealing compound) 1 Ib.
4-1, No. 4 42240576 Freezer door service assembly i
4-1, No. 4 42050077 Evaporator door assembly 1
(attaching parts)
41000402 Spring, evaporator door, left 1
41000403 Spring, evaporator door, right 1
08204907 No. 10-32 x 3/4” shoulder screw 2
4-1,No.7 42240586 Door service assembly 1
42030460 Door assembly 1
(attaching parts)
4-1, No. 5 41001355 Hinge pin 2
41001481 Standard hinge 1
41001482 Standard hinge 1
4-1, No. 1 42240589 Thermostat service assembly 1
41001519 Thermostat, standard 1
41002094 Thermostat knob 1
41001389 Wire harness, thermostat ground 1
(attaching parts)
41001860 Thermostat clamp 1
08204884
No.
10-32
x
1/2”
screw
1
08204886
No.
6-20
machine
screw
1
08205115
No,
10
ext.
tooth
lockwasher
1
42241277
Fan
service
assembly
1
4-3,No.6,7
42181221
Fan
assembly
1
(attaching parts)
41003619
No.
10-32
screw
3
08205134
Washer
2
*
42241278 Transformer/power cord service assembly 1