Mercedes-Benz E55 1996 User manual
Mercedes E55, E430,
E420, and E320 (W210)
1996 - 2002
Front Big Brake
Upgrade
98-560-1450-03 12/14/09
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Mercedes E-Class Big Brake Kit
This is a representative photograph. The actual components
in your kit may appear slightly dierent.
1 pair of ST-40, 4 piston calipers sized specically for the Mercedes E-Class
1 set of high performance brake pads
1 pair of either 332 X 32mm rotors or 355 X 32mm rotors, mounted to anodized billet 7075-T6
aluminum hats, using oating drive pins and Inconel®anti-rattle hardware
1 pair of 6061-T6 aluminum caliper adapter brackets, with stainless steel mounting studs pre-
installed using thread locker.
4ea. 7/16-20 Jet Nuts
4ea. 12mm washers
1 pair of stainless steel covered Teon brake lines
1 pair of Banjo Bolts
2 pair of copper washers
1 pair of rubber end caps
1 Caplet of Loctite 262
This kit contains the following:
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The customer is responsible for any squeal related problems due to pad
selection.
APPLICATION DISCLAMER
Most 17” wheels will clear the outer diameter of the caliper of the 332mm kit and most 18” wheels
will clear the 355mm kit. However, the more critical clearance is the gap between the spokes of the
wheel and the face of the caliper. Do not assume a 19, 20 or even 24 inch wheel will clear the face
of the caliper. A minimum distance of 60.3 mm, measured from the rotor face to the inside face of
the wheel spokes is needed for the 332mm kit and 60.3 mm for the 355mm kit. We recommend at
least 2mm of additional clearance. See the Brake Outline Drawing page on our website for more
specic measurements at www.stoptech.com.
Final tment of the wheel to the caliper is the responsibility of the customer.
Wheel Spacers
Wheel spacers can provide extra clearance to the outer face of the caliper. This will also space out
the entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Fender clearances should be checked on
lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts are usually required. Note: The Wheel Industry
Council has issued guidelines advising wheel spacers not be used.
It is the responsibility of the customer to insure wheel spacers are properly
specied and installed.
Brake Vibration - THIS IS IMPORTANT!
The most common cause of brake vibration is improper bedding of pads and rotors or improper pad
selection for the specic driving environment. Rotor runout may also cause vibration, but precision
manufacturing and inspection typically means runout is not an issue. Double disc grinding insures
the rotor runout is within +/- 0.002” when installed on our aluminum hat and controls thickness
variation within 0.0003”. Under the most extreme conditions, any rotor may warp, but uneven pad
deposition is a more typical vibration cause. If the system is not properly bedded in, or street pads
are run on an open track, uneven pad deposits will occur causing an ever worsening vibration. Fail-
ure to immediately address a pad deposition/vibration issue may lead to permanent damage to the
rotors. Please read and understand the bed-in procedures included with this manual. If you have
any questions, please contact the StopTech Customer Service Department for assistance.
STOPTECH is not liable for vibrations caused by extreme usage or improper break-in
procedures.
Brake Noise
Certain brake pad compounds make more noise than others. Proper anti-squeal shim plates between
the caliper pistons and backing plate of the pad help reduce the problem. Anti-squeal lubricants
are also available to reduce some of the noise. The reality is, performance pads are more prone to
brake squeal.
Caliper Clearance
4
Important Notices
The AeroRotors supplied with this kit are coated with a water soluable, environmen-
tally friendly rust inhibitor. This coating MUST BE WASHED OFF WITH SOAP AND
WATER before installation. Brake cleaner is not as eective as soap and water. Even
if it doesn’t look as if anything is coming o the rotor, the rust inhibitor is there and
must be entirely cleaned. Rotors will quickly rust without protection. If the rotor is
not rusty, it’s still coated. After cleaning, you will see the rotor immediately start to
develop a slight rust color. This is normal and desirable as it indicates all the rust in-
hibitor has been removed.
Proper rotor and pad break-in is essential to the performance of your new brake system.
Failure to properly break-in the brakes will seriously impact how well they work and
how long they last. The number one cause of brake vibration is uneven pad material
deposition on the rotor. Proper break-in will greatly minimize such problems.
Follow the break-in procedures listed later in this manual as closely as possible.
Cleaning of Rotors:
Rotor and Pad Break-in:
Wheel Fitment:
Do not assume your wheels will t. An outline drawing of your StopTech Big Brake
kit is available on our website at http://www.stoptech.com. Measure the distance
from the outer face of your stock caliper to the inner face of your wheel spokes, or
make a template according to the instructions on the website and determine if a
wheel spacer may be necessary. DO THIS BEFORE YOU INSTALL YOUR KIT!
If you have any questions about wheel tment, rotor cleaning or
break-in of a particular pad type, please call our Customer Service
Department @ 310-218-1091 or you can e-mail directly to support@
stoptech.com
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Mercedes E-Class Front Axle Kit
Safety Notice
Improper handling of a vehicle, especially while raised and supported by jack stands, ramps or other
mechanical means can cause serious bodily injury or even death. It is strongly recommended that
a trained, experienced mechanic, with proper equipment, install the Big Brake Kit as supplied by
StopTech . StopTech assumes no liability expressed or implied for the improper installation or use
of this product or its components.
Liability No Warranty
Automobile racing and performance driving, whether sanctioned or not, on or o the street, is dan-
gerous. Products used in such environments / applications are subject to stresses and conditions
outside of normal use, wear and tear. All equipment sold or provided by StopTech is sold WITHOUT
WARRANTY, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. No warranty or representation is made to the product’s ability
to protect the user from injury or death. The user assumes all risk. StopTech is NOT responsible for
any damage, consequential or otherwise for equipment failure or mal-performance after installa-
tion. Under no circumstance are we liable for labor charges or loss of use.
Tools and Equipment Required
Note: Some dierent models or years may use dierent size fasteners. Every eort has been taken
to
correctly identify the proper size tool for each job. Occasionally, the manufacturer may use an alter-
nate fastener. Check that each tool correctly ts the fastener before loosening or tightening.
18mm and 19mm sockets, 1/2”drive suggested
17mm wrench
14mm wrench or socket
12mm wrench or deep well socket
11mm wrench, are wrench suggested
11/16” wrench
1/2” socket
Torque wrenches capable of 10-85 ft/lb settings
5mm Allen (hex) wrench
T-40 Torx wrench
Needle nose or small regular pliers
Small drip tray or several rags
Small funnel
Brake bleed bottle
1 pair of jack stands or means of supporting vehicle
Plastic or non-marring mallet
Anti-seize
Please, believe us, it will be better to read and understand this ENTIRE Installation Manual,
including the included Break-in Procedures before starting the installation.
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- DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid. Check manufactures’recommendation for compatibility. StopTech recom-
mends ushing brake uid every 1-2 years, or more often under severe usage conditions. If not done
recently, the installation of a brake kit is an excellent opportunity to refresh your brake uid.
Additional items you may need include:
- Adhesive backed lead wheel weights
NEVER LEAVE ANY VEHICLE SUPPORTED WITH ONLY A JACK,
ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS.
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the nish on
any caliper and aluminum anodized nish, especially the plating on the hardware.
Check for adverse eects by trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an
inconspicuous area. Avoid over spraying, and rinse cleaning solutions o as quickly
as possible. STOPTECH will not be held liable for damage to caliper, hat or bracket
nish due to corrosive chemical exposure.
A level, stable and clean surface suitable for supporting the
car on jack-stands should be used for the installation.
Step 1
Raise Vehicle and remove wheels
Apply Parking brake and block rear wheels.
Break loose the lug nuts on both front wheels before jacking up the car.
Refer to the Owners Manual for correct location for jacking up the vehicle. Jack up the vehicle
and secure on a pair of jack stands.
Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer:
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Disconnect Stock Brake Line
Note: All Photographs Show Right Side Installation
Unless Noted Otherwise.
After securing the vehicle at a convenient height, remove the front wheels.
WARNING - Brake uid will damage most painted surfaces. Immediately clean spilled
brake uid from any painted surfaces.
- Place a drip tray or several rags directly below the inboard brake line connection. If the area
around the brake line connection is dirty, clean with brake cleaner.
Note- Be sure the cap is securely installed on the master cylinder. If the cap is loose or
removed, it is likely more uid will drip.
Step 1 (continued)
Note: If you remove the bottom lug bolt last while holding the bottom of the tire, it will lessen the
chances of the wheel tilting on it’s own and make removal easier.
Step 2
Right front corner with wheel removed
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Quickly snap one of the supplied black rubber caps over the end of the hard line. This
should control brake uid loss for the duration of the installation.
Step 2 (continued)
Once the line has been loosened with the
are wrench, you may use a stubby 11mm
wrench to nish disconnecting the hard line
tting.
Use an 11mm are wrench to loosen the
hard line tting from the stock brake line.
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Pad wear sensor
The Mercedes uses a sensor at each caliper
to notify the driver when a pad is in need
of replacement. This sensor needs to be
removed and secured out of the way so
that it does not provide a false indication.
Step 3
Remove Pad Wear Sensor
Use a Torx T40 wrench to remove the screw
which holds the sensor body to the caliper.
Pull the sensor from the pad with your ngers.
If it does not come freely, you may require
needle nose pliers. Wiggle it gently to avoid
breaking it and do not pull it out by the wire.
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Step 3 (continued)
Remove Pad Wear Sensor
Pull the sensor and harness back behind the steering
knuckle and secure rmly with several Ty-Wraps.
Make sure the harness does not rub on any moving
suspension components.
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The stock brake line passes through a suspen-
sion component and is held in place with a
rubber grommet. Use a at blade screwdriver
to push this grommet loose. Next, feed the
brake line through the suspension component
in preperation for removing the caliper and
line from the car.
Turn the steering wheel toward the side you are
working on so as to gain better access to the
bolts holding the caliper in place from behind.
Step 4
Remove Stock Caliper & Rotor
Remove the two stock caliper bolts with an 18mm wrench or socket. Set these bolts
aside for use in a later step.
Remove the caliper and line, being careful not
to splatter any brake uid from the end of the
brake line.
With the caliper removed, it is easier to see
where the two bolts held it in from behind.
Give the backing plate a solid whack with a
hammer at the 5:00 position in order to bend
it slightly away from the rotor location. If this
is not done, the thicker StopTech rotor will
rub against this backing plate and make a
grinding sound.
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Step 5
Install Caliper Bracket
Install the caliper adapter bracket to the steer-
ing knuckle using the stock caliper bolts. Place a
few drops of the supplied Loctite thread locking
compound on the ends of the caliper bolts before
installing them.
Torque caliper bracket bolts to 85 lb-ft.
The pre-installed studs face forward, and the
bracket mounts on the outboard side of the
mounting lugs, as shown.
Step 6
Install AeroRotor Assembly
Rotors MUST be cleaned with soap and water prior to installation. Not doing so will
damage the rotors and pads and prevent the brakes from performing properly. Even
though it may not look like anything is washing o, the rust inhibitor is in place and
must be removed. Not cleaning the rotors will severely impact the performance of
your new brake system.
Scrubbing AeroRotor with ScotchBrite pad,
soap and water.
Do not skip this step!
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Be sure the rotor assemblies are on the correct side of the car.
Reversing the rotors will severely decrease the cooling capacity
of the system.
The rotors are clearly marked“L”and“R”with orange tags on the
rotor hats. If the tags are not legible, the vanes inside the rotor
should lean to the rear of the car on the top-side of the rotor.
(See Page 14 for more detailed photos)
Step 6 (continued)
Install hat and rotor assembly and secure in place with a 5mm
Allen rotor retaining screw. It’s a good idea to place a dab of
anti-seize paste on the threads of the screw prior to installing.
Do not over tighten this screw.
Tighten with 5mm Allen
wrench
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15
Bridge Bolts
Bolt-in Bridge
Pad Retaining Clip
Bleed Screw
Cross Over Tube
Caliper Component Identication
Use a light lm of Anti-Sieze on Bridge Bolt
shaft and threads
The ST-40 caliper uses a Porsche style pad.
The Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI) number for the pad backing plate
is
D372
Please see the FAQ section of our website for further pad
interchange information. www.stoptech.com
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Step 7
Install Caliper and Pads
- Determine the left and right side calipers. The calipers are marked on each box. As a
check, the bleed screws always go to the top of the caliper.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper bridge using a 5mm Allen wrench.
Remove the caliper bridge taking note of the direction it is installed in and the correct location of
the pad retaining wire clip, which typically, but not always, stays attached to the bridge.
In order to stiffen the caliper, the
bridge is a snug t and the bolts may
be tight when removing. Keep turning
bolts gently with pressure applied in
the direction of removal.
After removing the bolts, it may be
necessary to tap the bridge out from
the inside of the caliper with a plastic
or leather hammer or similar tool.The
handle of a tool works well for this.
With use, the bridge and bolt will be-
come easier to remove and install.
Bridge Bolts
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Step 7 (Continued)
Install the caliper onto the adapter bracket studs
with
the bleed screws on the top side of the caliper.
Slide the caliper over the mounting studs, making
sure it is square and evenly started on both studs. It
may necessary to gently tap the caliper into position
with a non-marring hammer or mallet.
Install the Jet nuts onto each stud with one washer
under each nut
Tighten the Jet nuts to 40-45 lb-ft of torque using a
1/2” socket.
Slide the brake pads into position in the cali-
pers. Be sure the friction side of each pad is
facing the rotor.
(Yes, they have been installed backward be-
fore!)
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Step 7 (continued)
If the t of the bridge into the caliper is tight it may be necessary to tap into position with
a mallet. While applying pressure to the bolt head, adjust the position of the bridge until
the bolt slides more freely into place.
Apply a light lm of anti-sieze compound onto the bridge bolt shaft and threads. Insert the
rst bridge bolt and start the rst few threads using a 5mm Allen wrench. Gently press the
opposite side of the bridge with the palm of your hand, or tap with a mallet until the second
bolt engages the hole.With pressure still applied, start the second bolt. Torque each bolt to
8-10 lb-ft. DO NOT OVER TORQUE BRIDGE BOLTS! Snug is tight enough.
Apply pressure to head of bolt
If necessary, apply pressure on bridge to posi-
tion properly. Do not hammer bridge too deep
into the caliper as you may deform the pad
retaining spring clip.
WARNING: DO NOT HAMMER BRIDGE BOLTS INTO PLACE.
Install the bridge by sliding it into position and
rocking it until one of the bolt holes lines up. Be
sure the bridge is slid straight and parallel into
the caliper body opening.
(See Page 15 for detailed bridge directions.)
Note: The bridge is directional and the “air-
scoop” detail should be oriented as shown
below for the Mercedes kit.
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Attach the stainless brake line
Step 8
Install the banjo bolt into the caliper with a copper washer on each side of the Banjo tting on
the brake line and torque to 14 lb-ft with a 12mm wrench.
Copper Crush Washers
Banjo Bolt
Route the brake line along the same path as the original stock brake line, passing it
through the suspension component and rubber grommet.
Do not install the brake lines twisted.
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Remove the rubber cap from the hard line and
screw the hard line tting into the new stain-
less brake line by hand for a few turns before
tightening with an 11mm are wrench. Use
a 19mm wrench to stabilize the exible brake
line’s tting, below the bracket, while you fully
tighten the hard line tting.
Install a washer over the end of the stainless brake line
before inserting it into the bracket from below.
It may help to gently pull the pair of sensor
wires out of the way to make room to man-
uever your wrenches.
- Turn the wheels lock-to-lock and be sure the brake line is not binding in any way. Also check
there is no interference with any suspension components, including the CV boot and axel/drive
shaft. If necessary, loosen the Banjo bolt and slightly re-align the brake line.
If the brake line is not properly routed, a catastrophic failure could
occur. If you are unsure that the line is routed properly and safely, do
not drive the car. Please call our Tech Support Dept. for assistance if
you have any doubt as to the brake line routing.
Check Brake Line Routing and Clearance
This manual suits for next models
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