Motor trike Gl1800 spyder / 2+2 User manual

MOTOR TRIKE®

GL1800 SPYDER / 2+2

SERVICE MANUAL

Motor Trike Spyder 2+2

Motor Trike Spyder

Table of Contents/Index

Document Navigation

Safety and Precautions

How To Use This Manual

Preventive Maintenance

Leveling Short Version

Ladder Bar and Hiem Adjustment

General Description

Heim Joint Location

Heim Adjustment

Body Fit and Alignment

General Description

Bad Alignment

Passenger Floorboards

Trimming the Floorboard mounts.

Lower Trunk Door Adjustments.

“T” Handle Latch

Hidden Latch System

Standard Spyder

Spyder 2+2

Centering the Door

Locking Mechanism Adjustment

Weather Seal Adjustment

Leveling the Body

Centering the Rear End

Aqua Shields

Air Bag System and Suspension

General Description

Trikes without Air Compressor

Trikes with Air Compressor

Air Compressor Location

Low Pressure Solenoid

Air Pressure Gauge and Compressor Controls

Digital Control System

Progressive Coil-Over Shocks

Table of Contents/Index; Continued

Drum Brake

Parts List

Placement Diagrams

Instructions

Adjustments

Brake Cylinder OverHaul

Removal

Overhaul

Drum Brake Bleeding

Original Disk Brake

Caliper Position

Hex Bolt Location

Pads

Rotor

Brake Reservoir

Bleeding GL1800 Spyder Original Disc Brakes

New Style Disc Brake 2006 and Later

General Brake Disc Information

Instructions

Brake Pads

Brake Reservoir

Bleeding Procedure

Rear Axle Shaft

General Information

Service Information

Parts List

Removal

Install

Acknowledgments

BOOKMARKS = CONTENTS

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Safety and Precautions

Service Information

The service, and repair information contained in this manual is intended for use by qualified, professional technicians.

Attempting service or repairs without the proper training, tools, and equipment could cause injury to you or others. It

could also damage the Trike, or create an unsafe condition.

This manual describes the proper methods, and procedures for performing service, maintenance, and repairs. Some

procedures require the use of specially designed tools, and dedicated equipment. Any person, who intends to use a

replacement part, service procedure, or a tool that is not recommended, must determine the risks to their personal

safety, and the safe operation of the Trike.

If you need to replace a part, use parts with the correct part number, or an equivalent part. We strongly recommend

that you do not use replacement parts of inferior quality.

For Your Customer’s Safety

Proper service and maintenance are essential to the customer’s safety, and the reliability of the Trike. Any error or

oversight while servicing the Trike can result in faulty operation, damage to the Trike, or injury to others.

For Your Safety

Because this manual is intended for the professional service technician, we do not provide warnings about many basic

shop safety practices (e.g., Hot parts = wear gloves). If you do not feel confident about your knowledge of safe

servicing practices, we recommended that you do not attempt to perform the procedures described in this manual.

Some of the most important general service safety precautions are listed below. However, we cannot warn you of

every conceivable hazard that can arise in performing service, and repair procedures. Only you can decide whether or

not you should perform a given task.

Important Safety Precautions

Make sure you have a clear understanding of all basic shop safety practices and that you are wearing appropriate

clothing, and using safety equipment. When performing any service task, be especially careful of the following:

• Read all of the instructions before you begin, and make sure you have the tools, the replacement or repair parts,

and the skills required to perform the tasks safely and completely.

• Protect your eyes by using proper safety glasses, goggles, or face shields any time you hammer, drill, grind, pry, or

work around pressurized air, or liquids, and springs, or other stored-energy components. If there is any doubt, put on

eye protection.

• Use other protective wear when necessary, for example gloves, or safety shoes. Handling hot, or sharp parts can

cause severe burns, or cuts. Before you grab something that looks like it can hurt you, stop, and put on gloves.

• Protect yourself and others whenever you have the Trike in the air. Any time you lift the Trike, either

with a lift, or a jack, make sure that it is always securely supported. “Use jack stands”. This is repeated

through out this manual.

Make sure the engine is off before you begin any servicing procedures, unless the instruction tells you to do

otherwise. This will help eliminate several potential hazards:

• Carbon monoxide poisoning from engine exhaust. Be sure there is adequate ventilation whenever you run the

engine.

• Burns from hot parts, or coolant. Let the engine, and exhaust system cool before working in those areas.

• Injury from moving parts. If the instruction tells you to run the engine, be sure your hands, fingers and clothing are

out of the way.

Gasoline vapors and hydrogen gases from batteries are explosive. To reduce the possibility of a fire, or explosion, be

careful when working around gasoline, or batteries.

• Use only a nonflammable solvent, not gasoline, to clean parts.

• Never drain, or store gasoline in an open container.

• Keep all cigarettes, sparks, and flames away from the battery, and all fuel-related parts.

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL

This service manual describes the service procedures for the Honda GL1800/GL1800A Motor

Trike© Spyder and Spyder 2+2, TRIKE KIT.

Follow the Maintenance Schedule recommendations to ensure that the vehicle is in peak

operating condition.

Your safety, and the safety of others, is very important. To help you make informed decisions

we have provided safety messages, and other information throughout this manual. Of course,

it is not practical, or possible to warn you about all the hazards associated with servicing the

Trike. You must use your own good judgment.

You will find important safety information in a variety of forms including:

•Safety Labels – on the vehicle

•Safety Messages – preceded by a safety alert symbol and one of three signal words,

DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.

•These signal words mean:

You WILL be KILLED or SERIOUSLY

INJURED if you don’t follow instructions.

You CAN be KILLED or SERIOUSLY INJURED

if you don’t follow instructions.

You CAN be INJURED if you don’t follow

Instructions.

•Instructions – how to service this vehicle correctly and safely.

As you read this manual, you will find information that is preceded by NOTICE: . The

purpose of this message is to help prevent damage to your vehicle, or other property.

ALL INFORMATION, ILLUSTRATIONS, DIRECTIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS

INCLUDED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE BASED ON THE LATEST PRODUCT

INFORMATION AVAILABLE AT THE TIME OF PRINTING. THE RIGHT IS

RESERVED TO MAKE CHANGES AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE AND

WITHOUT INCURRING ANY OBLIGATION WHATSOEVER. ANY PART OF

THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

PERMISSION. THIS MANUAL IS WRITTEN FOR PERSONS WHO HAVE

ACQUIRED BASIC KNOWLEDGE OF MAINTENANCE ON HONDA

MOTORCYCLES.

Date: January 2008

Motor Trike® Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Trikes equipped with drum brakes will need to be adjusted at the 500, 1000, 2000

and 4000 mile points or until the brakes have seated. The drum brakes on the rear

are equipped with self adjusters, but they will not work due to the light weight of the

trike. The brakes will need to be adjusted with a brake spoon. The correct process

is to lift the rear end in the air. Remove the rubber adjustment hole cover. It is

rectangular in size and about 1” in width. Spin the wheel, and adjust the brakes

slowly until the wheel starts to drag. The wheel should be able to spin freely for 270

degrees. If the wheel was a clock, it would start at 12, and stop at 9 o’clock.

Reinstall the rubber and repeat process on the other wheel.

1. Grease the rear universal joint easily with one to three pumps of grease every

5000 to 8000 miles, or when oil is changed. Don’t over grease.

2. Inspect, and tighten all jam nuts. Make sure a medium grade Loc-Tite is used.

Do Not use Loc-Tite where Ny-Lock Nuts are used. See Photo at the bottom of

second page below. Inspect and tighten the ¾ inch nuts and bolts on the rear

end at the ladder bars. Loose rear end bolts will cause slight body wobble while

riding, and may make a clicking noise while mounting the Trike. If this is

detected, correct immediately.

3. Grease the two swing arm pins on the shoulder where Ladder bars attach to the

frame every 24 months, or every 18,000 miles. Use high quality lithium grease.

4. Use a dry silicon spray to protect Heim joint from wear. Spray directly on the

Heim joints. (3M makes this product and can be purchased at any Auto Supply

Store.)

5. Tire pressure for general riding should be 18-24# depending on geographic

locations, and road conditions. Use 22-25# for long interstate trips. Over

inflation of the rear tires will prematurely wear out the center of the tire.

6. Air Bag recommendations: Use 15-20# for one up, depending on your weight.

Adjust to your personal comfort. Add approximately 10-20# for every 60# of

passenger weight, and luggage. You have a suspension that uses two coil over

gas shocks, and two air bags. If you are pulling a trailer with two people, you

would use 40# and up. The Air Bags have a maximum PSI of 120#.

7. Check the Lug Nuts periodically for tightness. The lug nut torque for the

Roadhawk billet aluminum wheels is 70-85 ft. lbs. for ½ stud size.

8. If you have vibration from 0-25 MPH, your drive shaft is not lined up correctly. If

the drive shaft and the front U joint do not line up perfectly (off by one tooth)

make sure that the front U joint runs ahead of the rear universal. Your drive

shaft runs (turns) counterclockwise.

9. Grease the forward spline of the driveshaft front and rear with high quality

lithium grease every 24 month, or 20,000 to 24,000 miles. This requires the

removal of the driveshaft. Be careful not to get the front and rear U joints “out

of time” on reassembly.

NOTE:

To aid in installation of the driveshaft, compress spring at spline joint, and hold with

wire, or heavy cord around each universal, and draw tight.

10. Fender Bras: It is OK for your fender bras to get wet. However, you must

remove them when you are finished riding for the day. If you leave wet fender

bras on your trike, for an extended period of time, the paint underneath could

blister and peel. Dry the fender bras, and dry the body before reinstalling. The

use of a good wax on the fender is recommended and good vinyl protectant on

the bras.

Nut types

Standard Nuts Ny-Lock Nuts

LEVELING

Trouble Shooting, and Solving the Problem

If your Trike is not level, and leans to one side, your ladder bars are in a bind.

Do this to correct the problem.

A. Leave the Trike on the ground, and find a level area of concrete on which to

work.

B. Check the tension on both fenders by pushing them down. Usually the fender

that is lower is softer.

C. Unbolt the bottom ladder bar bolt on the side that is leaning. Before pulling out

the bolt, loosen the jam nut on the rod end.

D. Take the bolt out and run the rod end OUT anywhere from 1 to 2 ½ turns until

the bolt slides in freely.

E. Reassemble ladder bar, and check to see that the Trike is now level.

F. Make sure that you readjust the diagonal bar so that there is no tension.

ALL JAM NUTS MUST BE SECURED WITH A MEDIUM GRADE OF Loc-Tite. Make sure

to do preventative maintenance, and check all Jam nuts every 5,000 to 8,000 miles,

or at oil change.

NOTES

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Ladder Bar and Heim Adjustment

Ladder Bar General Description:

The Motor Trike® Patented Ladder Bar suspension allows the rear end to move on both sides

independently to move up and down without the other side being affected. Ladder Bars are made of

Chrome Molly tubes with race car type Heim adjustments for a perfect alignment. The air ride allows

you to set your own pressure for a custom ride, soft to hard, for one or two riders, or with a trailer. The

shocks are gas coil-over from Progressive Suspension Products.

All Motor Trike® kits are manufactured using Air Ride Suspension as standard equipment. Which offers a

true suspension, letting the shock absorbers do what they were designed for...to dampen sudden and

rapid motion. The comfort and stability of the Air Ride Suspension will give a ride that is considered

“unsurpassed in the industry”. When you combine the Air Ride Suspension with the Ladder Bar

suspension, the result is unique in that the ride quality and handling characteristics split the difference

between the traditional solid axle design, and the independent rear suspensions.

The Ladder Bars attach to the inside of the motorcycle frame at the Swing Arm Pivot Point, and rear axle

housing via beefy Heim Joints, the upper Heims are canted forward to reduce drive shaft velocity, and

level the forward end of the drive line, and provide a slightly progressive lever ratio of the driveshaft.

Chrome Molly Tubular steel adjustment arms fitted with aircraft type Heim joints that provide total

freedom of movement (adjustment) along with a huge increase in strength over bushings. There is a

Ladder Bar on each side of the frame. See Photos L-1 thru L-4

Photo L-1 Photo L-2

Photo L-3 Photo L-4

The Separator Bar and the Diagonal Adjusting Bar, which are seen in Photos L-1 and L-4, are the main

focus of proper Ladder Bar adjustment. A properly adjusted set of Ladder Bars are free to move. This

movement can not be felt by hand, but can be felt and adjusted in the Separator Bar, and Diagonal

Adjusting Bar. The entire suspension system of the Motor Trike® is coupled together with “Heim Joints”.

A Heim Joint is a free moving coupling joint that allows movement of the attached Ladder Bar at the

frame, and independent of each other while holding the rear end firmly in place. That allows one side of

the rear end to move up or down with little or no movement on the other side. The Heim’s are the key to

the suspension, and keeping it in adjustment. See Photo L-5

Rod end Heim Photo L-5

The only adjustment that should have to be made on the actual Ladder Bars is the “Leveling

Adjustment” made at the lower rear heim of the low side of the Trike. This is described in the section

labeled “Body Fit and Alignment”. Any other adjustments will require that the Ladder Bars be removed,

and set. If you suspect that there is something awry with the Ladder Bars. Contact your

Dealer/Installer or Motor Trike® directly.

Heim Joint Adjustment:

General Discription and Location:

Heim Joint Adjustment in general refers to the Separator Bar, and the Diagonal Adjustable Bar. That is

on the forward section of the Ladder Bars. As seen in Photos L-6 thru L-9 below. There is also an

adjustable Bar on the rear side of the rear end that is described in the section labeled “Body Fit and

Alignment”, under the title “Centering the Rear End”

What you will see as you look at the forward portion of the underside of the Trike is depicted below in

the photos.

Photo L-6 Photo L-7

Photo L-8 Photo L-9

In photo L-6 you can see the Ladder Bars on each side of the frame, and the Separator Bar that goes

straight across the motorcycle. You will also see the Diagonal Adjustable Bar attached at the same point

on the left side. As well as the drive shaft. You will notice that the right side of the Separator Bar

attachment point is fairly close to the drive shaft. These bars are set up in a turnbuckle arrangement.

Meaning that one end of the bar is a Left Hand Thread. There is No way to easily tell which end of the

bar is the left or right hand thread. Caution should be exercised while undertaking this adjustment not

to “Round Off” the shoulders of the nuts while attempting to brake them loose.

Checking the Heim for Proper Movement:

This adjustment should be done with the Trike on the ground. This will assure that the adjustment is

correct. You may place the Trike on jack stands to gain a little better access to the jam nuts to brake

them free, but the jack stands should be removed to make the actual adjustments, unless you have the

jack stands at the exact same level. If this adjustment is made on jack stands you MUST recheck the

adjustment once the Trike is lowered to the ground, and preferably before you tighten the jam nuts.

1. From the Left side of the Trike look under and locate the Separator Bar. The one that goes

straight across the motorcycle. This can actually be accomplished form either side of the

Trike. The left side will provide easer access to the bars as the drive shaft is out of the way.

Refer to Photo L-6 above.

2. With your right hand reach up to the Separator Bar. With your thumb and forefingers grasp

the bar, and rock it back and forth. If the bar will not rock freely (with little or no effort) that

bar is in a bind, as well as the Ladder Bars. If you have to grasp the bar with the whole hand

to move it. It is out of adjustment. The bars should rock freely with little or no effort with

just the thumb and forefingers. See Photo L-10 for the proper holding technique.

3. Now locate the Diagonal Bar and ascertain its feel using the same method as just described.

Locating the Diagonal Bar can be done by feel, as they are right next to each other, and can

be easily determined which is which with out looking. See Photo L-11 for the proper holding

technique.

4. If both bars move freely there is no adjustment needed. If just one of the bars is tight (does

not move freely), both will have to be adjusted. As one effects the other and they have to be

adjusted together. Proceed to step 5.

Photo L-10 The Separator Bar Photo L-11 The Diagonal Bar

5. Break the 9/16 jam nuts free, by backing them away from the bar ends. Remember that one

end is a Left Hand thread. Cleaning the threads thoroughly with a stiff brush will aid in

accomplishing this. Back the nut away from the rod end a few turns, to allow the bar to be

turned in either direction. See Photo L-12 for nut location. The right side of the bars will

prove to be the most difficult to back off, as the drive shaft is some what in the way, both

front and rear. The jam nuts may be very tight, and were Loc-Tited on installation. Some

effort will be needed to loosen them, as well as some dexterity. Positioning the wrench on

the nuts is somewhat difficult on the Diagonal Bar on the left side. Be very careful not to

round off the shoulder of the nut.

Photo L-12 Jam Nuts

NOTE: The use of a Flare Wrench or a Flare Crowfoot Nut Wrench can assist in breaking

the jam nuts loose. Their movement may however be somewhat restricted. If so revert

back to the standard open wrench to finish loosing the nut once it has been broken free.

Flare Wrenches, and Flare Crowfoot Nut Wrenches are normally not part of a tool box.

They are available at any Auto Parts Store, or any Hardware Store that sales tools. They

vary greatly in cost from store to store. An inexpensive 6 piece set will most likely serve

this purpose well. Remember the undercarriage is comprised of standard SAE hardware,

nuts and bolts. The photos on the following page show these types of wrenches.

Flare Wrench Flare Crowfoot Nut Wrench

6. Should it prove difficult to break the nuts free, or if a shoulder gets rounded off. The bars

can be easily removed from their attach points. By removing the attachment bolt on both

ends. These bolts are 3/8 bolts with 9/16 head and nuts. A 9/16 box end wrench, and a

9/16 deep socket will be needed.

7. Should you have to remove the bars for any reason? Note the placement of the washers. It

is critical that you note their placement, and replace them back in the order that they came

off. You will find that left side will have a washer and the right side will not. If the washer is

not placed back the bolt head will crush the Heim center collar and it will not “float” in the

outer race of the joint. Thus ruining the Heim head and it will not do its job.

NOTE: If you removed the bar because you rounded the shoulders of a nut, the head can

be backed out, and the nut replaced. Generally measure the distance that the head is

screwed in and note it. The head is 3/8 SAE Fine thread. Finding a right hand fine thread

nut will be easy, and is available at any Auto Parts Store. If it is the Left handed thread

that needs replacing, that will prove to be a difficult nut to find. There is an easy fix

however. You will have to have access to a vice, and a good fine file, and a 12mm open

end wrench. Remove the rounded nut from the Heim head. Place the nut in the vice

where the rounded shoulder is up. Carefully file the face of the rounder shoulder flat on

both sides. They will be opposite of each other. Rotating the nut a couple of times will be

required. Filing off the rounded portion until the 12 mm wrench fits those two sides

snuggly. Now carefully match the other 4 sides of the nut to the 12 mm wrench. Use

slow and deliberate strokes of the file, and keep it flat and level on the nut face. The end

result will be a 12 mm nut with good shoulders. Replace the nut on the Heim head and

re-thread it back into the bar end. Make a NOTE of that nut or mark it in some

manner that you will know that it is a 12 mm and not 9/16. Proceed with the rest

of the adjustment.

8. Once you have the jam nuts free back them off 3 or 4 turns.

9. If you removed one or both of the bars. Replace them now (after the nuts are free and

backed off)

10. Grasp the tight or tightest bar, and rotate it until you feel it free up, and began to rock freely.

The bars work like a turn buckle. Turning one way will spread or tighten, and turning the

other way will loosen.

11. Adjust that bar until it rocks freely with just the thumb, and forefingers.

12. Now move to the other bar and repeat the above process.

13. Go back to the first bar that you adjusted and check that it is still moving freely. Adjust

again if needed.

14. This will also apply to both bars. Adjust both bars so that they can be rocked easily with the

thumb and forefingers.

15. Apply a single drop of Blue (Medium) Loc-Tite on the Heim threads about ¼ inch from the bar

end.

16. Now move the jam nuts back against the bars with your fingers and lightly tighten them on

each end of the bar. Checking with each tightening of a nut, the movement of the bar. Don’t

over tighten the nuts. Snug tight will do it.

17. Recheck the bars for easy rocking. A perfect adjustment will be that the bars rock with little

or no effort with just two fingers, and a click, or clack can be heard when you go from full one

side to the other. That will be the Heim head hitting the stop.

18. This adjustment should take from 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on your skills, and that

you don’t have to reface a rounded nut.

Rechecking the bars for free movement after adjusting.

While you are under the Trike check, and tighten the four ¾ inch bolts on the rear end side of the Ladder

Bars. These bolts should be checked at regular intervals or if you notice an odd noise while turning at

slow speed. A waddle or slight odd wobble at highway speed is another indication that the back bolts

are getting loose. A distinct clicking from the rear while mounting the Trike is another. Loose in the

case of the rear bolts is defined as little as ¼ turn on the bolt.

Also give the rear U Joint a single shot of grease.

Rear “U” Joint Grease Zerk.

NOTES

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Body Fit and Alignment

General Construction Description

Motor Trike® fiberglass bodies are designed, and manufactured at the Motor Trike® plant in Troup, TX.

The fiberglass bodies are laid by hand, which is a very labor intensive manufacturing process. This

process produces the quality finish, and strength. Strength in a fiberglass body is in the mat.

Fiberglass mat is actually woven fiberglass material that is laminated into the mold. Hand laid

fiberglass mat also produces consistent material size through out a section, with superior strength,

while maintaining a reduced weight. All of this together, quality finish, consistency of material, superior

strength, and light weight, is what makes the Motor Trike® Body the quality product that it is.

Bad Body Alignment

Body alignment and fit are achieved during the installation of the Trike Kit. The body should sit center

on the frame, and the side panels should be aligned so that the gap is consistent from one end to the

other, approximately ¼ inch. An example of bad alignment is shown below. If the alignment is off as

depicted in the below photos, contact Motor Trike®, or your Installer for follow up. There is nothing

that can be done by an Owner - Operator for this situation. This is a rare occurrence, but you can see

that it does happen. The body can be readjusted to some degree by a competent installer by

remanufacturing the forward body mounting brackets. This will require near total disassembly of the

Trike to be accomplished. An out of align body in this fashion Does Not effect the ride or handling of

the Trike. It is just somewhat cosmetically displeasing.

The photos below show a body that was not properly supported, and aligned as per the installation

instructions during the initial Trike assembly. The front body mounts are about 3/4 to 1 inch to low. As

a result the side panel covers are not straight from top to bottom, and there are gaps between the body

and the seat that should not be there.

As noted above the ride and handling are not affected. This particular Trike was ridden a little over

15,000 miles, over a 14 month period before a body adjustment was performed.

Passenger Floorboards

The passenger floorboards should not touch the fender. There should be approximately ¼ inch

clearance between the outer edge of the floor board and the painted surface of the fender, with out the

fender bras installed. Should either of the floor boards be touching or rubbing the fender. There are a

couple of easy fixes.

Adding Body Washers/Spacers at the frame mount.

1. Remove the side panel of the side that is touching. Locate the body support bracket. See

Photo 1

2. First take note of the placement, and quantity of washers between the bike frame and the

bracket. See Photo 1.

3. Remove the 9/16 bolt from the body support bracket. The bolt goes through the bike frame,

and will require two wrenches. Total bolt removal may not be possible on all Trikes. There

should be enough room to push the bolt back to insert spacer washers. The bolt should have

sufficient length on the inside of the bike to add spacer washers. The body bracket should

have pressure holding the washers in place.

Photo 1

4. Lift the floor board to prevent damage, or additional damage to the fender, or Bra if installed.

If there is a Bra installed it should be left on the fender.

5. Catch the washers if they fall out. Be sure that you have ALL of the washers. At this point you

will need to have a few washers on hand to be inserted onto the stack that is there. Pulling on

the outside of the fender at the lower most edge, will release the pressure.

6. The easiest way to make this adjustment is to place a spacer of cardboard between the

lowered floorboard, and the fender with Bra in place (if so equipped) of approximately 3/8 inch.

Three pieces of everyday brown cardboard box will work for this. See Photo 2.

Photo 2

7. Add extra washers until the gap is full. 9/16 “Fender Washers” commonly found at Hardware

Stores or Auto Parts Stores is a good choice. Push the bolt through the washers, and back into

the bike frame. Replace the nyloc nut on the inside of the frame, and tighten snuggly. Medium

grade (Blue) Loc-tite should NOT be used if a nyloc nut is installed.

8. Relieve the pressure on the cardboard by lightly pulling the fender out, and remove the

cardboard. If there is a Bra the floorboard should be just touching it, or just off of it. If there

Motor Trike GL1800 SPYDER / 2+2 User manual

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