Musicmakers BALLAD HARP KIT User manual

BALLAD HARP KIT
Assembly Instructions
Musicmakers
14525 61st ST CT N
Stillwater, MN 55082
Updated February 2021
WOOD PARTS
A. Soundboard, Aircraft Birch
B. Back Panel
C. (2) Sides
D. (4) Long Trim Strips, Sides
E. Short Trim Strip, Back
F. Short Trim Strip, Front (Drilled)
G. Inner Reinforcement Bar
H. Pillar
I. Pre-drilled Neck
J. (2) Feet
K. Top Block
L. Arched Cap Block
M. Inner Brace
N. Base Reinforcement
O. Base Block
HARDWARE
Scrap Soundboard Piece
(34) Threaded Harp Tuning Pins
Brass Driver for Tuning Pins
(10) Threaded Bridge Pins, Large
Allen wrench, 3/32”
(24) Threaded Bridge Pins, medium
Allen Wrench, 5/64”
(24) Medium Brass Eyelets, 1/8”
(10) Jumbo Brass Eyelets, 3/16”
(2) #14 X 2” Wood Screws, Square Drive
#3 Square Drive Bit
(8) Wood Screws, 1-1/4”
(14) Wood Screws, 1-5/8”
(3) Wood Screw, 2”
Wood Dowel, 3/8” x 2”
(2) Maple Wood Plugs, 3/8” dia.
Maple Wood Plug, 1/2” dia.
Harp Medallion, 3/4” dia.
(3) Drill bits (1/8”, 7/64”, 3/16”)
(2 oz) Wire Nails, 17 guage, 3/4” long
(4) Rubber Bumpers
(4) Screws for Bumpers, #6 x 3/4”
Tuning Wrench
Set of 34 Harp Strings
Spacing Guide for Bridge Pins
Assembly Instructions
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We strongly recommend that you use a common woodworking glue like Elmer’s
Carpenter’s Wood Glue or Titebond because they hold the parts more securely than
most other adhesives, and they are inexpensive and easy to use. DO NOT assemble the
wood parts of this project with 5-minute epoxy or super-glue or hot melt glue. The
yellow colored Elmer’s or Titebond is best.
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TIPS TO MAKE THIS A SUCCESSFUL PROJECT
Inventory and inspect all your parts carefully. If anything is
missing or defective, please call or email us right away.
_____A.
_____B.
_____C.
Read through the entire assembly instructions before you
start, just to get an overview of the project. This will also
help give you an idea of what tools you will want handy
to complete the project. We highly recommend having an
orbital sander to complete this project. It will help cut down
on a lot of sanding time.
Take your time and enjoy the process. Building a musical instrument is an experience
to be savored, not a race to be won.
If you make a mistake somehwere along the way - please don’t worry about it. Every
mistake can be fixed and the majority of mistakes won’t be noticeable by anybody
butyou.
pPay special attention to notes in these boxes. These notes highlight crucial aspects of
the build or steps that, done incorrectly, can really mess up your project.
A NOTE ABOUT GLUE
We also recommend checking off each step in the directions as you finish it. You might
be skipping forward to another part of the assembly while waiting for something to dry,
and it helps to keep track of where you left off.
When gluing parts together, be sure to put enough glue on the joint to wet the
entire surfaces to be joined. A good sign of proper gluing is that a little excess will
squeeze out around the joint when clamping pressure is applied. Too little glue
may cause the parts to separate later, whereas too much glue makes things messy.
Always keep a damp rag handy for quick cleanup, as necessary. It is especially
helpful to keep your fingers clean while gluing, because gluey fingerprints have
the embarrassing tendency to appear on the finished product in prominent
places.

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ASSEMBLE THE FRAME
____1. Clamp the harp sides to your bench. This will
help prevent the sides from sliding around
during the assembly process. (fig. 1)
(This may seem like an odd way to start, but
it really helps to hold both side pieces firmly
when drilling pilot holes for the screws. We sug-
gest reading through step 5 to understand how
the parts will go together.)
____2. Dry fit the base block and inner top block to to
each side ensure a good fit. (fig. 2) You’ll need to
check the fit on one side and then flip the part
over to check the other side.
If the pieces aren’t perfect, you can adjust them
with a hand plane or sanding block. It’s easier to
remove the excess BEFORE the parts are glued
in place. You can remove the excess by using a
sanding block, hand plane, or power sander.
(fig. 3)
No
Gaps
FIG. 1
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
____3. Drill three, 7/64” pilot holes in both sides for
the base block screws, as well as 2 pilot holes in
both sides for the top block screws. (fig 4)
Be sure to tilt the drill bit to drill parallel to
the plane of the sides. If you drill the holes
straight down, you might split the wood of
the sides.
FIG. 4

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____5. Flip the harp over so that the glued side is on
top. Use the top block to help balance the sides
together. Align the base block, and insert the
screws for the remaining side. (fig. 8) After the
base block is attached, insert the remaining
screws for the top block. Make sure to clean up
any excess glue.
FIG. 6
FIG. 7
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
Place the frame on your bench so that the front
is facing up. (fig. 9) The front is both longer and
wider than the back.
Find and check the fit of the inner brace. Orient
the brace so that the taper matches the taper of
the sides. Be sure that the ends of the brace set
flush with the edges of both the front and back.
____6.
NOTE: Sometimes the brace is not the cor-
rect length to fit between the sides. This can be
caused by poor cutting on our part, but more
likely the sides have bowed a little from humid-
ity changes after we prepared them. You can
check that with a straight-edge and push or pull
the sides into alignment as you glue the brace
in place. If a brace is simply too short, howev-
er, you can shim the space with a thin scrap of
wood. If too long, use a disk sander to remove
a small amount without changing the angle or
rounding the end. If the brace is too thick to
slide into the dado, you can sand it a little at a
time with an orbital sander.
This brace serves two purposes:
1.) to straighten the sides during assembly and
2.) to keep the body of the harp from
deforming later under string tension.
____4. Apply glue to the sides where the base block
connects, as well as where the top block con-
nects. (figs. 5, 6)
Insert 1-5/8” wood screws to connect one side
to the base block. (fig. 7) Make sure to clean up
the excess glue as you connect the sides to the
both the top and bottom blocks. Insert screws
to connect the top block on the same side as you
did the base block.
FIG. 5

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____7. Apply glue and clamps. Please note the various
methods of clamping. Taping scrapwood to the
outside will make it easier to apply the bungee
cord. Choose the method that works the best
for you. Orient the clamp where the brace is
located. Be sure to clean up excess glue drips
that might interfere with installation of the
front and back panels. Practice fitting pieces
together without glue. (figs. 10, 11)
Fig. 10 shows the use of f-clamps (aka. bar or
pipe clamps) and scrap wood (e.g., 2x4s) to
help distribute pressure along the length of the
sides.
Fig. 11 shows the use of elastic/bungee cord,
along with 2x4s.
FIG. 10
FIG. 11
FIG. 12
PREPARING THE SOUNDBOARD
Take note that the soundboard is punch marked
on the outside surface (front) of the board.
Using a hand drill or drill press, drill the lowest
and highest punch marks with a 1/8” drill bit.
These holes will act as a guide for the reinforce-
ment strip. Perform the drilling on a work-
board to prevent the wood from tearing out on
the soundboard. Be sure to hold the drill per-
pendicular to the soundboard. (fig. 12)
____8.
Workboard
Flip the soundboard so the inside faces up. Connect the holes with a straight edge and mark
with a pencil. This line will act as a reference for gluing the reinforcement bar. Dry fit the rein-
forcement bar and trace around each end with a pencil on the inside of the soundboard. Be
sure that the reinforcement bar covers the highest hole. (figs. 13, 14 - next page)
____9.

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____10. Gather weights and clamps for pressing the
reinforcement bar and dry fit the reinforce-
ment bar with the clamps as well.
Apply glue along the length of the reinforce-
ment bar and tape on both ends to prevent
slippage once the weights or clamps are add-
ed.(fig.15)
CAUTION: Double check that you are not
gluing the reinforcement bar over the punch
holes!!
Then you can add the weights or clamps. Make
sure that you are continuing to utilize your
workboard, as it helps keep the soundboard
and reinforcement bar flat during the clamp-
ing process. (figs. 16, 17)
FIG. 13
FIG. 14
FIG. 15
FIG. 16
FIG. 17
FIG. 18
p
This is a great time to sign and date the
inside of the soundboard. Your name and
skills as a luthier will live on in infamy!
p
____11. Once the glue is dry, flip the panel over, and
drill the remaining holes. Drill through the
front panel as well as the reinforcement bar.
(fig. 18)
___Drill bottom 10 holes with 3/16” drill bit.
___Drill remaining 24 holes with 1/8” drill bit.
Don’t forget to redrill the top and bottom hole
through the reinforcement bar.

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INSTALL THE BACK AND SOUNDBOARD
____12. While you are waiting for the glue to dry on the
soundboard reinforcement strip, you can work
on sanding the sides/frame of the soundbox.
Make a large sanding block to level the edges of
the sides. This will make for a better gluing sur-
face. Use double stick tape or spray adhesive to
apply 60-grit sandpaper to a flat block of wood
for a sanding block. Make sure that the block is
flat and not bowed. (fig. 19)
Check to make sure the base block, braces, and
top block are all flush with the sides. Use a file,
chisel, or sanding block to remove any spots
that are too high. You will want to clamp down
your project so it doesn’t move around while
you are sanding. (fig. 20) Make sure to sand both
the front and the back of the frame. This creates
a better glue surface as well as preventing gaps
from appearing under the soundboard.
NOTE: It is very important you make sure there are no gaps where the soundboard
contacts the frame. Gaps here create the potential of the soundboard coming off the
frame.
p
FIG. 19
FIG. 20
FIG. 21
____13. Dry fit the back to the frame. The back and soundboard panels are cut slightly large to
ensure a bit of overhang that can be removed after gluing.
Once the back is fitting nicely, remove excess overhang from the top and bottom. This
step can be done after gluing, but you may find it easier to do before you glue it to the
frame. You can do this by using a pencil to mark along the underside of the back against
both the top and bottom block. Then use a saw to cut off the excess. Make sure to leave
your line mark when making the cuts, to ensure that you don’t take too much material
off of the back. The rest can be cleaned up with sanding later on.
Mark the location of the frame on your back
panel to help locate the where to install
thenails.
Mark centerlines on the top of the frame, and
extend the lines to both the bottom and top
blocks, as well as the sides. (fig. 21) Put the back
panel back in place and extend the lines to the
side edge of the back panel. Use a straight edge
to connect all of your centerlines on the back
panel. These will be your guidlines for where to
put your nails.
____14.

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____17.
Fit the soundboard using the same techniques
as you used to fit the back panel. There will be
a couple slight differences that you will need to
pay attention to. There is a greater risk of driv-
ing a nail through the outside face of the side
when you are installing the soundboard. There
are two things you can do to help avoid this
from happening.
1) Pay attention to the angle that you are install-
ing the nails - be sure to match the angle of the
sides of the frame. (fig.25)
2) Instead of marking centerlines for the nail
guidelines; mark your guidelines about 1/3 of
the way from the inside edge.
It is very difficult to make a seamless repair
when you punch through the sides. If you pay
attention to these two steps, it should prevent
any issues.
____18.
Test the bottom front trim strip in place and
mark holes where screws will be. Do NOT nail
within 1/4” of these marks.(fig.26)
Angle of Nail/Staple
should match the
side of frame
Don’t punch through the sides
of the frame!
____16.
Apply glue to the frame and nail the back panel
in place. (fig. 22)
Start by installing one nail at each end of the
panel to keep it aligned as you add more nails
down each side and across the bottom. (fig.23)
Place your nails about 1-1/2” to 2”apart.
Make sure to match the angle of the nail to the
angle of the sides of the soundbox, so that it
does not go through the side.
Do NOT nail along the top block, as there is
no trim to cover this area. (fig. 24) You will
need to clamp the back to the top block to be
sure that it gets held down.
NO Staples or
Nails
____15. FIG. 22
FIG. 23
FIG. 24
FIG. 25
FIG. 26
p
Soundboard Scrap
Mark where the trim
screws will be
Attach the soundboard scrap. Put a nail on each
side of the soundboard scrap. Avoid nailing in
the middle of the scrap as that is where the pil-
lar screw will come in. (fig. 26)

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____19. Apply glue to the front of the frame and nail the
soundboard to the frame using your guidelines.
Remember to pay attention to the angle you
are installing the nails. Space the nails about
1” apart.
Remember, do NOT nail along the top block
(same as the back panel) as there will not be
trim here.
____20. Use a hammer and nail set or flat screwdriver to sink the nails/staples just below the
surface. This will keep them from interfering with the trim strips. Don’t drive the nails
too deep. High humidity could cause the wood to swell over the heads of the nails in the
future. (fig. 27)
1) Nails are necessary for the soundboard because wood glue alone is not sufficient to
withstand all the string tension.
2) Many people ask why we use laminated wood instead of solid wood for the
soundboard. The reason is that we get much more strength from laminated material
than from solid, and virtually no breakage. The superior strength of this material allows
us to use a thinner soundboard than if we were to use solid wood, so we also get better
sound with a laminated front than we would with a solid front.
FIG. 27
FIG. 28
FIG. 29
FIG. 30
INSTALL THE TRIM
____21. If you haven’t already done so, this is the time to
remove the overhang from the top and bottom
of the back and soundboard. (fig. 28)
Also use this time to double check that all the
nails/staples are driven down slightly below the
surface of the back and soundboard.
____22. Remove the excess overhang from along the
sides of the frame as well. There are several
options for removing the excess. You can use a
fine tooth hand saw, a hand plane, a palm belt
sander, or a sanding block. (figs. 29, 30)
WHY NAILS? WHY A LAMINATED SOUNDBOARD?

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____23.
____24.
____25.
____26.
____27.
Sand the access holes in the back panel first
using 120 grit, and then again with 180 grit sand-
paper. Be sure to clean up the entire perimeter
of each hole. This will make for more comfort-
able handling once the harp is finished. (fig. 31)
Use an orbital sander to lightly sand the entire-
ty of the back, soundboard, and sides using 220
grit sandpaper. Make sure to take extra care to
hold the sander flat. (fig. 32)
NOTE: Be careful when you are sanding the
back panel. It is very easy to sand through
the thin hardwood veneer.
FIG. 31
FIG. 32
FIG. 33
FIG. 34
FIG. 35
p
Test fit the trim strips to the soundbox. Be sure
that you know which strip is going where.
Sand along the entire inside edge of the trim
strips. Do NOT sand the side of the trim that will
be glued down. It is easier to sand this inside
edge now, before it is glued down. Rounding
the edge will ensure that no one will get a splin-
ter from handling the finished harp near the
trim. Ouch! (fig. 33)
Test fit the bottom trim strip with the pre-
drilled holes. Check that the mitered edges
fit properly without leaving a gap anywhere.
(fig.34)
If the miters on the bottom trim strip need to
be adjusted, you can use a sanding block or disk
sander. (fig. 35)
The width of this strip should match the width
of the harp’s soundboard at the bottom. You
may need to adjust one side more than the
other to get the width and miters to match. If
you run out of wood to remove from the bot-
tom trim. The long side trim strips can also be
adjusted for miter angle.
When you are satisfied with the fit of the bottom
trim, use a 7/64” drill bit to bore pilot holes into
the base block.
Apply glue and use 1-1/4” screws to attach the
bottom trim strip to the frame. Be sure to clean
up any excess glue right away.