Nechville Heli-Mount Operator's manual

Player’s
Manual
Specifications
Weight : 7.5-10.5 lbs. (depending on tone ring)
Scale length: 26 3/8”
Neck width at nut: 1.28” (1.22” Athena &
Moonshine)
Neck width at 22nd fret: ~2”
Bridge: Compensated Enterprise Bridge
Tailpiece: Nechville Inline Tailpiece
Head: 11” Medium crown
Head Tension: 92-93 on drum dial
Factory string sizes: GHS 10, 12, 14, 22, 10
Nechville Musical Products
9700 Humboldt Avenue
Bloomington, MN 55431
www.nechville.com
747-222-6567
[e-mail]

3 4
Since 1982, my goal has been to present
the world’s best banjo. The Heli-Mount
was born in 1986, and my dream was
fullled. Heli-Mount banjos are built
with today’s diverse musical styles in
mind. The modular Heli-Mount system
not only makes it easy to customize for
dierent playing styles, but allows you to
explore countless new options for tailoring
your sound.
- Tom Nechville
Enjoy
Your
Heli-Mount!
Warranty
Nechville Musical Products warrants the Heli-Mount banjo against
defects in material or craftsmanship for as long as it is owned by the
original owner. If defective parts are returned to Nechville Musical
Products, they will be repaired or replaced without cost, other than
shipping costs. Any related labor that is required for repair or
reassembly will be performed at no charge for the first year, and at
one-half the usual shop charge for subsequent warrantee repairs.
Nechville Musical Products
9700 Humboldt Avenue
Bloomington, MN 55431
612-275-6602
E-mail [e-mail]

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Table of Contents
Parts of theHeli-Mount 6-9
Introduction 9
Maintenance
Head Adjustment
and Replacement 11
Optimal Head Tension 13
Bridge Placement 13-14
String Replacement 15
Tailpiece Adjustment 16
Neck Adjustments 16
Truss Rod Adjustments 17
Troubleshooting 19
Loose Neck 19
Buzzes 19
Action Check 20
Off Pitch 20
Bridge Check 20
Caring for Your Heli-Mount 21
Cleaning andTreating 21
Storage 22
Travel 22
Warranty 23
Specifications 24
Parts oftheHeli-Mount Banjo
1 Tuners
2 Nut
3 Fingerboard
4 12th Fret
5 Heli-Mount Frame
6 Head
7 Bridge
8 Tailpiece
9 Tone Ring
10 Armrest
11 Resonator
12 Neck Interface
13 5th String Tuner
14 Truss Rod Cover
15 Peghead
16 Threaded Flange Ring
17 Wood Rim

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9 10
Introduction
The innovative 2 piece Heli-Mount design
eliminates about seventy movable parts in
conventional banjos. Adjusting or removing the
Heli-Mount banjo head or tone ring is as easy as
turning a wrench. Uniform head tension is
automatic.
Further, metal hardware no longer touches the
instrument’s tone components, which allows a
fuller, richer banjo sound.
In all, the Heli-Mount’s patented design makes
all adjustments extremely accurate as well as
simple:No more rods, hooks, nuts, or broken
heads!
The Heli-Mount’s neck can be adjusted or
removed with a simple Allen wrench. This
unique feature provides a solid neck-to-body
contact and adjustability without a sacrice in
tone.
The neck action adjustment eliminates the risk of
rim warpage, and the cumbersome shim
compensations often necessary with traditional
banjo models. It can also provide higher action
settings for clean hammer-ons and pull-offs and
to avoid fret rattles during hard picking.
The Heli-Mount’s improved Nechville/Price self
-adjusting tailpiece greatly reduces the bridge
stresses that often occur with other banjos.
Most Heli-Mount banjos feature a compound
radiused ngerboard with a properly
compensated bridge for easier playability and
more accurate intonation. Contact Nechville for
additional information about customizing your
banjo with built-in electrics or alternative tone
components.
Nechville Musical Products also offers
professional amplication packages for your
Nechville Heli-Mount banjo. Our dual source
Warp Drive pickup relays an accurate and detailed
acoustic signal complete with all of the freedom
that a pickup offers.
We also offer a fully electric Comet banjo that
opens up an entirely new world of banjo sound and
power, letting you tailor your sound to your mood
and whatever sounds you have in your head.

11 12
Maintenance
Head Adjustment and Replacement:
1. If you plan to change the head, loosen the strings
just enough to remove the bridge and
follow steps 1 through 12. For simply adjusting
head tension, follow steps 2-4.
2. Remove the resonator fastening screws, and
carefully remove the resonator. Then place the
banjo face down in your lap for steadier handling
and to prevent scratching.
3. Flushly t the pinion wrenches into opposing
holes of the threaded flange ring. Make sure
wrenches go all the way into the ange holes.
4. Loosen the head by turning the pinion
wrenches clockwise. Tighten it by turning
wrenches counter-clockwise. Considerable force
applied equally to each wrench is required to
move the threaded ange ring when head is at or
near playing tension. Brighter tone increases with
higher head tension. (See Figure 3).
Attention
Be sure to fully insert both pinion
wrenches provided before adjusting
head tension. If wrenches don't fall
all the way into their holes, gently tap
them down until they are fully seated.
Use equal force in the same direction
with both wrenches simultaneously.
5. After removing the Heli-Mount retaining
ring, be careful not to nick or bend its threads or
the threads of its housing component, as this
may impede the smooth operation of the Heli-
Mount.
6. Remove the rim and the tone ring to gain
access to the head.It is easiest to grab from the
inside of the tone ring and pull out the entire
tone ring/rim assembly. Be aware that there may
be up to 80 ball bearings inside the tone ring, so
always lay the tone ring top-side-down before
separating it from the rim or you might spill the
balls.
7. When the Heli-Mount is disassembled, clean
out the thread grooves and gear with a
toothbrush. Using the toothbrush or a rag, apply
Heli-mount grease or oil to the helical internal
thread of the Heli-Mount frame, if desired.
8. When replacing a head, make sure that the
head’s outer bead is ush against the tension
ring and is clear of the screws on the tailpiece.
(Note: Remo medium crown heads are
recommended, but any 11-inch medium or high
crown head will do. High crown heads give
higher string action than lower crowns do).
9. Carefully replace the tone ring and the rim,
seating the tone ring rmly down into the head.
(Note: If you have a custom model with
pickups, you should now align the rim for
proper pickup remounting).
10. When all other components are in place, you
may begin threading in the Heli-Mount tension
ring. Note that it is best to first back-thread the
tension ring by hand (counter-clockwise) until
its threads seat evenly with the threads of the
housing component. When you are condent
that the threads will engage properly, you may

13 14
begin threading the flange ring in by hand (The
ange ring itself tightens clockwise while the
wrenches turn counter-clockwise).
11. Once the hand threading becomes difcult,
completely seat the pinion wrenches into opposite
holes of the tension ring for tightening. Turn
both wrenches counter-clockwise until turning
becomes difficult. Apply equal torque with both
pinion wrenches and continue twisting until head
is tight.
Finding Optimum Head Tension
Brilliance and volume will generally increase
with higher tension. For Bluegrass, you’ll want a
tight head. It should not yield from pressure, but
ex slightly when pushed in. Many players “tap
test” the head listen to its pitch. G sharp is a good
tension to strive for, but it is difficult to detect a
specic pitch from a head. After having
encountered stiff resistance from the wrenches,
you still may find that the head still needs more
tightening. If wrenches are plugged all the way
into their holes, the Heli-Mount is designed to
withstand the torque needed for even the
brightest of tastes. You will eventually reach the
point where additional tension does no good and
you will want to back off the tension until some
warmth returns to the tone. After setting the
desired tone, remount the resonator and replace the
resonator screws. In order to properly judge your
setup, you may want to reevaluate and re-adjust
after playing a day or two. Once your optimum
tension is reached, it should remain there
indefinitely. We recommend using a drum dial
and setting the tension to 92-93.
Bridge Replacement
(Note: Read this carefully as it is crucial that the
bridge placement is correct in order to obtain the
best performance from your banjo).
1. For best results, use only the compensated
Enterprise bridge available from our factory.
2. Measure 13 3/16” down from the 12th fret to
the head. Place and hold the bridge at that
location with string tension.
(Note: To fine tune the bridge setting, use a
harmonic technique called “chimes”).
3. Lightly touch the 3rd string above the 19th
fret while plucking. This clear ringing sound is
called “chimes” or “harmonics”.
4. Play the string again while fretting the 19th
fret just behind the fret wire. If these two notes
are exactly the same, your bridge is set correctly.
5. If the fretted note (from Step 4) is higher than
the harmonic note (in Step 3), move the bridge
slightly toward the tailpiece. If the fretted note is
lower than the harmonic note, move the bridge
slightly away from the tailpiece. In each case,
repeat Steps 3 and 4 until both notes are exactly
the same.
6. Once the proper bridge location is found, it is
suggested that you lightly mark the bridge
position on the head with a pencil. This is to
insure the proper setting of the bridge in event
that it is knocked out of place.

15 16
String Replacement
(Note: To insure that bridge placement is not
disturbed, it is suggested that string replacement
is done one string at a time).
1. After removing the first string, you may rub
some pencil lead into the slot of the nut, allowing
the string to slide more easily into tune.
2. After running the string through the tailpiece
and over the bridge and nut, pass the string
through the peg hole from the center of the
peghead toward the outside.
3. Leaving a little slack in string length, kink the
free end of the string in the opposite direction
(forming a figure “S” or a reverse “S.” Pass the
free end under the existing string length and pull
it up trapping it between the string and the tuner
post.
4. Remove any slack by pulling on each section
of the string, turn tuner knob until slack is taken
up. Make sure the strings come off the inner side
of the tuner post.
5. Repeat above process with remaining strings.
TailpieceAdjustment
The Nechville tailpiece comes adjusted for your
banjo from the factory. If desired, the 2 small
mounting Allen screws can be re-adjusted to
angle tailpiece left or right. Tighten right screw to
orient tailpiece toward right. Tightening left
screw angles tailpiece to left.
Larger screw in end of tailpiece is the break angle
adjustment screw. Putting pressure on this screw
lowers tailpiece, increasing break angle and
focusing the sound. The Heli-Mount works well
with this screw left without much tension, but not
rattling for the fullest tone.
NeckAdjustments(Action Adjustment)
1. Before attempting to adjust the neck, rst
make sure that the head is tight and then test the
action by measuring the clearance between the
top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the string.
Low action is around a 1/8 inch gap. Any less is
too low.
Note:Remember that tightening the head also
raises the action, so does loosening the truss rod.
See Pages 11 and 17.
2. If you want to raise the action via the Allen
screw heel adjustment, carefully turn the body
over and place in your lap. Use a 5/32 inch Allen
wrench and loosen the neck. It may slide forward.
Hold the neck in the desired position, and lock it
in place by retightening the Allen screw. (See
Figure 6).
Important Note:If the Allen screw goes in all
the way and the neck is still loose, the neck
should be removed and the anvil in the plunger
will need to be screwed exactly one turn in, with
the 5/32 inch Allen wrench. See following

17 18
illustration and video online.
3. If you want to lower the action, you must first
loosen the strings slightly before following the
procedure in Step 2.
4. If you wish to remove the neck, simply back
out the Allen screw about 1/4 inch, remove the
tailpiece, and pull the neck free from its anvil
and plunger mounting assembly.
Notes: plunger should not be tightly fastened to the
mounting bolt in order to allow for neck movement along the
full range. Allen wrench shown is not to scale and is the same
tool for adjusting main Allen screw on heel.
TrussRod Adjustments
The truss rod is used for adjusting the amount of
bow in the playing surface of a neck. A properly
adjusted neck should not be back bowed or even
perfectly at. For clean tone it is best to have a
small amount of forward bow.
Note: It is important to read all instructions rst.
Before attempting to do any truss rod setting,
you should know that banjo necks are sensitive
and potentially breakable. If you have tried all
other neck action adjustments and the action is
still impeded by an improper neck bend,
carefully follow the steps below. ( If you are not
comfortable with truss rod adjustments, it is
suggested that you take your Heli-Mount to a
reputable repair shop.
1. Test the truss rod setting by placing a capo
just above the 1st fret while holding the string
down at the 22nd fret and measuring the
clearance between the top of the 7th fret and the
bottom of the string. The clearance should be
approximately the thickness of one or two
business cards. (Remember that overall string
action adjustments are done at the Heli-Mount/
neck interface).
2. Remove the truss rod cover and find a 1/4”
nut driver that will fit in the truss rod access
hole.

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3.Carefully set your banjo on a sturdy padded
surface, with the peghead facing toward you and
the neck facing away. With the 1/4 inch socket
wrench or nut driver, engage the truss rod nut.
(See Figure 8). Turn the nut only slightly, about
one eighth to one quarter of a turn. Again test the
neck bow as described above, and do so with
each successive adjustment. It is also possible to
view down the edge of the ngerboard and
actually see the amount of bow changing.
Troubleshooting
Loose Neck
If there is any play in the neck, follow the
directions in the second paragraph of the “Neck
Adjustments” section on Page 16.
Note:If the Allen screw goes in all the way and
the neck is still loose, the neck should be
removed and the anvil in the plunger will need to
be screwed exactly one turn in with the 5/32 inch
Allen wrench. (See Figure 6 on Page 16). If the
neck is still loose, it is suggested that the entire
plunger be tightened to its mounting bolt. (If
access from the inside of the Heli-Mount frame is
needed refer to Steps 1 through 12 on Pages 11
through 13).
Before attempting to adjust the neck, rst test the
action by measuring the clearance between the
top of the 22nd fret and the bottom of the string.
Low action is considered .090” at the 12th fret (between
fret and string) with the rst fret held down. Any less is
too low.
Buzzes
If there are any buzzes during hard picking,
hammer-ons, or pull-offs, your action is too low.
Follow Steps 1 and 2 in the “Neck Adjustments”
section on Page 16. Very rarely you may
encounter a high or low fret as the source of your
problem. Have frets examined by a qualified
luthier for dressing or possible replacement.
Action Check
Follow the procedure in Step 1 of the “Neck
Adjustments” section on Page 16. If neck is
improperly bowed, see ‘Truss Rod Adjustment’
on Page 16.
If the bow is adequate but the action is too low,
carefully turn the body over and place it in your
lap. Use a 5/32 inch Allen wrench to slightly
loosen the neck interface for adjustment. Hold
the neck in the desired position and lock it into
place by retightening the Allen screw. (See
Figure 6 on Page 15).
Off Pitch
If your banjo is off pitch when played up the
neck, follow Steps 3 and 4 in the “Bridge
Placement” section on Page 14. If your banjo is
not equipped with a Nechville “Enterprise”
compensated bridge, procuring one would help
overall intonation.
Bridge Check
To check the bridge, use the “chimes” technique
described in the “Bridge Placement” section on
Page 14.
First lightly depress the 3rd string above the 12th
fret while plucking. Next play the string again
while fretting the 12th fret just behind the fret
wire. If these two notes are exactly the same,
your bridge is set correctly.
Roughor Protruding Fret Edges
During extreme dry spells, the neck wood may
shrink leaving uncomfortable fret ends
protruding. Consult a qualied repair person to
file and polish the fret ends, while the weather is
still dry.