Overkill Solar BMS Series User manual
Overkill Solar BMS Instruction Manual
Version: 0.1.0
Date: August 31, 2020
Table of Contents
Table of Contents 2
1. Introduction 5
1.1 What is a BMS 5
2. How to Build a Battery Pack 5
2.1 Safety Precautions 5
2.2 Planning 5
2.2.1 Gather Components 5
2.2.2 Gather Consumables 6
2.2.2 Gather Tools 7
2.3 Top Balancing 7
2.4 Assembly 9
2.4.1 Arranging the Cells 9
2.4.2 Connect the Balance Wires 10
2.4.3 Prepare BMS 11
2.4.3 Add BMS 11
2.4.5 Temperature Sensor 11
2.4.6 External Switch 12
2.4.7 Connectivity 13
2.4.7.1 Bluetooth Module 13
2.4.7.1 USB Interface 13
2.4.7.3 Arduino LCD Display 15
3. BMS Parameters 15
3.1 Protection Parameters 15
3.1.1 Cell over voltage 15
3.1.2 Cell under voltage 15
3.1.3 Battery over voltage 16
3.1.4 Battery under voltage 16
3.1.5 Charge over current 17
3.1.6 Discharge over current 17
3.1.7 Charge over temperature 18
3.1.8 Charge under temperature 18
3.1.9 Discharge over temperature 18
3.1.10 Discharge under temperature 18
3.2 Capacity Parameters 18
3.2.1 Designed Capacity 18
3.2.2 Cycle Capacity 19
3.2.3 Full Charge Voltage 19
3.2.4 End of Discharge Voltage 19
3.2.5 Discharge Rate 19
3.2.6 80%, 60%, 40%, 20% Capacity Voltage Levels 19
3.3 Balance Parameters 20
3.3.1 Start Voltage 20
3.3.2 Delta to balance 20
3.3.3 Balancer Enabled 20
3.3.4 Balance only when Charging 20
3.4 Other Parameters / Features 20
3.4.1 Switch 20
3.4.2 Load Detect 20
3.4.3 LED Enabled 20
3.4.4 LED Capacity 21
3.4.5 BMS Name 21
3.4.6 Barcode 21
3.4.7 NTC Settings 21
4. Periodic Maintenance 22
4.1 Periodic Cable Check 22
4.2. Periodic Voltage Check 22
5. Troubleshooting & FAQ 23
6. Technical Support, Return, and Refund Policy 27
Appendix 28
Appendix A: Recommended Parameters 28
A.1 General Settings 28
A.2: 12V Pack, 4 Cell, Using One 12V BMS and 100Ah LiFEPO4 cells 29
Mechanical Drawing 29
Bill of Materials 29
Wiring Diagram 31
BMS Configuration Parameters 31
A.3: 12V Pack, 8 Cell, Using One 12V BMS 32
A.4: 24V Pack, 8 Cell, Using One 24V BMS 32
A.5: 24V Pack, 8 Cell, Using Two 12V BMSs 33
A.6: 24V Pack, 16 Cell, Using One 24V BMS 33
A.7: 48V Pack, 16 Cell, Using Two 24V BMSs 33
Appendix B: Calibration 34
B.1 Voltage Calibration 34
B.2 Current Calibration 35
B.2.1 Idle Current Calibration 35
B.2.2 Charge Current Calibration 36
B.2.3 Discharge Current Calibration 38
Appendix C: About Cell Balancing 40
Appendix D: BMS Specifications 46
D.1. Pinouts 47
D.1.1 BMS Balance Connector (12V) 47
12V BMS connector: 47
24V BMS connector: 47
D.1.2 BMS Serial Interface Connector 48
D.1.3 BMS Switch Connector 49
D.1.4 BMS Temp Sensor Connector 50
Appendix E: BMS Application Usage 50
E.1. XiaoxiangBMS (iPhone) 50
E.2. Xiaoxiang (Android) 51
E.3. JBDTools (PC) 54
Appendix F: Wire and Lug Sizing 57
F.1 Wire Sizing Chart 57
F.2 Battery Bus Bar Sizing Chart 57
Appendix G: Glossary 58
Appendix H: Further Reading 59
H.1 Mobile Solar Power Made Easy! By Will Prowse 59
1. Introduction
1.1 What is a BMS
A battery management system, or BMS, is an electronic device that protects and manages rechargeable
battery cells.
2. How to Build a Battery Pack
2.1 Safety Precautions
●Keep metal tools away from exposed terminals
●Wear safety glasses
●Battery cells and electronics can overheat and cause fires or release toxic smoke, if they are
misconfigured or used incorrectly. Always keep a Class C fire extinguisher near the battery system,
and ensure that those around it are properly trained to use it.
●Ensure that the all electrical connections are screwed down tight and are not loose
●Battery systems are not a toy. Never let unsupervised children or pets near the battery system.
●Do not connect anything but the BMS’s B- cable to the cell negative BC0 terminal (the one exception
being the BC0 balance wire). The load negative must be wired to the BMS’s C- lead.
●Do not purposely short-circuit the battery pack
●Do not accidentally short-circuit the battery pack
●Do not submerge the battery pack
●Do not purposely connect the battery pack to a load that dissipates more than the BMS is rated to
handle.
2.2 Planning
2.2.1 Gather Components
●Battery cells (we recommend the Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 cells, which are the perfect size for our
BMS modules). We also give very detailed diagrams, mechanical drawings, bill-of-materials, and BMS
configuration parameters to ensure a smoother DIY experience.
●Bus bars (used to link the battery cells together. While it’s possible to use stranded insulated wire and
ring terminals, this is considered bad practice, and is arguably more expensive). The easiest approach is
to purchase properly-sized bus bars with your battery cells (Overkill Solar’s 100 Ah LiFePO4 cells
include bus bars). If you purchased other batteries that did not come with bus bars, they may be made
from copper bar or pipe; see Appendix F.2.
●The Overkill Solar BMS, which ships with the following items:
○Balancing lead
○Temperature sensors
○2-pin cable for external switch
○Quick-start guide
○Bluetooth module and cable (optional)
○USB module and cable (optional)
○The BMS may be ordered with optional cable upgrade (C- and B- cables can be upgraded to 8
AWG, 12” or 24” cables. see section 2.2.3 for why this may be useful). Crimped copper lugs
may also be specified at order-time.
●A pair of power distribution blocks, with two or more 3/8" lugs, rated for at least 150 amps (most
with 3/8" lugs will be rated for over 200 amps). We recommend a matched pair with one black for
negative, and one red for positive. These will be the interface between the battery pack, and the rest
of your system.
●An enclosure for your battery pack. Popular choices are:
○Overkill Solar sells a stainless steel frame for the 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries. This is arguably the
strongest and most durable way to build a battery pack, and would be suitable for mobile
installations, for example an RV.
○1/2" plywood is a very popular choice. This can be assembled in a few hours with very basic
tools. A pocket-hole jig (e.g.: Kreg K4) is the quickest and easiest way to attach 1/2" plywood
at 90 degree angles without splitting the material.
○Plastic snap-top battery boxes can be purchased for under $10.00, and are intended to be used
in a mobile setup (e.g. RV or boat). They have locking lids, adjustable dividers, two handles, a
recess for a mounting strap, and pass-throughs for large battery cables.
○Any large plastic box will suffice for a permanent, non-mobile installation. Storage boxes from
companies such as Rubbermaid and Sterilite are available in a multitude of shapes and sizes.
○Many DIYers will also choose to forgo the enclosure altogether. Typically, the electronic
components are mounted to a piece of vertical 1/2" plywood, and the batteries are usually
placed near the floor, but ideally elevated up a few inches. Sitting on a closet shelf is perfectly
fine. These cells do not offgas in normal operation, so they may be placed inside a living space.
Admittedly this setup isn’t for everyone, but it might be the right choice for some people.
2.2.2 Gather Consumables
●16-22 AWG Insulated ring terminals (needed for the balance leads). We include 3/8" ring terminals
with the Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries, which have 10mm lugs. If purchasing other
batteries, you will need to provide your own.
●8-10 AWG ring terminals (needed to connect the BMS’s pig-tail leads to the battery). Crimped ring
terminals and longer pigtail leads are optional items for the BMS at the time of purchase. See the
Bill-of-materials in Appendix B for exact sizes.
●4 AWG, 2 AWG, 1 AWG, 1/0 AWG, or 2/0 AWG stranded insulated wire, 3/8" ring terminals, and
heat-shrink tubing (exact size will depend on the charge and discharge currents. See Appendix B for
bill-of-materials for specific configurations. See Appendix F for wire sizing guidelines).
●Kapton tape (needed to secure the temperature sensor(s). We recommend every DIYer to have Kapton
tape on hand. Buy it in assorted sizes). If you don’t have Kapton tape, or don’t want to buy it, you can
use whatever tape you have laying around.
●2” gaffer tape (optional; if you plan to tape your batteries together instead of fastening them inside of a
box or within a frame) We recommend gaffer tape because it does not leave a residue in most cases.
Duct tape works too, but gaffer tape is superior. And if you don’t have either of those, then any tape
will work in a pinch.
●Double-sided foam tape (optional; place between battery cells to prevent them from sliding around, and
also as a convenient way to attach the BMS to the battery pack. We recommend 3M™ VHB tape, and
this is what gets included with the 100Ah LiFePO4 frame kits).
●Light-duty 6” zip ties (for wire bundle management)
●Heavy-duty >12” zip ties (Optional; for mounting the BMS to the battery pack)
2.2.2 Gather Tools
●Ratcheting insulated terminal crimper (needed for crimping insulated ring terminals to the balance
leads). Most ratcheting crimpers will be rated for 10-22 AWG, and have three separate crimping
zones: red, blue, and yellow.
●Hammer lug crimper or hydraulic crimper (needed for crimping the heavy-gauge ring terminals)
●Cable-stripping knife (needed for stripping large-gauge wire) A razor blade or a knife are acceptable
substitutes, but aren’t as safe to use.
●Wire strippers, capable of stripping 26 AWG, Klein Tools 11057 or similar (needed to strip the balance
leads)
●Wire shears, Klein Tools 63050 or similar (needed to cut the large-gauge cables)
●Socket and wrench set (needed to tighten the battery lugs). The recommended Overkill Solar 100Ah
LiFePO4 cells come with 17mm nylon-insert locking nuts.
●A phone, tablet with Bluetooth, or a laptop with USB (Optional; Can be used for programming the
BMS. Programming is not needed for common configurations). See Appendix A for recommended
parameters, and Appendix E for installation and usage.
●A felt-tip pen or label maker for labelling the cells and balance leads
●A lab CC-CV power supply capable of around 10 amps or LiFePO4 battery charger capable of
charging a single cell (one or the other is needed for top-balancing the cells). Note that if you ordered
the cells from Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 cells, and they were all ordered at the same time, the
top-balancing step can be skipped because it was done before they were shipped to you. The top
balancing procedure is covered in Section 2.3.
●A handheld voltmeter for troubleshooting and BMS calibration. If you plan to calibrate your BMS, the
voltmeter needs to be accurate to at least 1 millivolt. If you use a cheap or badly-calibrated voltmeter,
you will only make your calibration worse.
●A clamp-style current meter (optional; but required for BMS calibration). Most handheld multimeters
will only measure DC current up to 10 amps; these are not sufficient. We recommend a clamp meter
capable of measuring DC current at greater than 100 amps, at an accuracy better than +/- 2.0%. If
purchasing a new clamp meter, always make 100% sure that it will measure DC current. Cheaper
models only measure AC current.
2.3 Top Balancing
Before the battery pack is assembled, lithium battery cells must be top-balanced, if the factory or vendor did
not do so before shipment [1]. This is an essential step, and should never be skipped. If you have been told
differently, or don’t believe us, please read Appendix C, where we explain why.
[1] Overkill Solar 100Ah LiFePO4 cells are shipped top-balanced. If you purchased all cells at the same time,
from Overkill Solar, then there you can skip this section.
With that out of the way, it’s time to top-balance the battery cells.
Note that this process will take some time. It could take a few days, depending on how many cells you plan on
using, and where the state of charge was in each cell before they shipped. Typically cells are shipped at lower
than 50% charge, but don’t count on this. Assuming your charger or power supply is rated at 10 amps, it will
take five hours per cell. Do not leave the cells unattended during the balancing process. Plan your day
accordingly.
1. Obtain a lab CC/CV (constant-current, constant-voltage) regulated power supply capable of providing
at least 10 amps.
2. If you already jumped ahead and wired your battery pack up, disconnect everything now (remove the
BMS, the bus bars, temp sensor, double-sided tape, everything.
3. Wire all cells in parallel, using the bus bars (all positives wired together, and all negatives wired
together). If you do not have enough bus bars, you may use 10-12 AWG cable with crimped ring
terminals. Be extremely careful to ensure that all cells are connected together with the proper polarity.
4. Configure the power supply for 3.65V, and set the current to around 1/10 C rate (e.g: For a 100A
battery, set the current to 10 amps). Lower currents will work, but will take longer. Higher currents
may work, but could affect accuracy, as the discharge curves vary depending on the current draw.
5. If the power supply does not have a voltage readout, then connect a digital multimeter to the positive
and negative bus bars. This will need to be monitored throughout the test.
6. If the power supply does not have a current readout (in amps), then connect a digital current meter in
series with the circuit, or use a clamp-style meter clamped onto the lead between the supply and the
battery (clamp to either positive or negative lead is fine, but not both).
7. Shut the power supply off.
8. Connect the battery positive lead to the power supply positive terminal.
9. Connect the battery negative lead to the power supply negative terminal.
10. Now, turn on the power supply.
11. Wait until the current readout goes to zero. This may take many hours. If the voltage ever exceeds
3.65, stop immediately.
12. At this point, your cells have been top-balanced. Disconnect the power supply leads, and disconnect
the bus bars.
WARNING: If the lab power supply polarity is reversed by accident, a tug-of-war between the batteries and
the power supply will ensue. The batteries will win, and the power supply will likely be permanently
damaged. Use caution.
Figure 2.3.1: Top-balancing cells in parallel (power supply connection not shown)
Figure 2.4.1.1: 12V 4-cell battery configuration, top-down view
Figure 2.4.1.2: 24V 8-cell battery configuration, top-down view
Use a felt-tip pen (or a label maker) to label each cell, and each terminal on the battery. This will reduce the
risk of making mistakes when connecting and reconnecting things. Also, some batteries do not label the +
and - terminals very well. Consider using a red marker or red fingernail polish to mark the red terminal (being
careful not to get any on the threads or lug contact area).
At this time, mount the cells together. There are many ways to do this. The simplest option is to wrap tape
around the cells (gaffer tape is a great choice). Double-sided foam tape between cells is also a good choice. If
using the optional steel frame, mount the cells in it now. If using a fully-enclosed box, it is recommended to
get the components wired together and working first, and mount it inside the enclosure last.
Add the bus bars, but don’t add the nuts or fasteners yet (balance leads go on before the nuts).
WARNING: This step is critical! Placing a bus bar in the wrong position will cause a short circuit between 2
cells.
2.4.2 Connect the Balance Wires
The balance wire harness should be unplugged from your BMS for now.
The first step is to crimp ring terminals. Prepare the wire ends by cutting the tinned ends off (terminals must
be crimped to bare, stranded wire). Strip the ends back. If using 16-22 AWG ring terminals (the red ones),
then strip about 3/8" of insulation off, and fold the exposed wire in half in order to double the cross-sectional
area. This will allow us to safely crimp a 26 AWG wire inside of the terminal, with less chance of the wire
pulling out. Crimp the wire into the terminal using a ratcheting insulated terminal crimper. Then, do a pull-test
on the wire. Pull hard, and if the terminal comes off, repeat the process with a new terminal until it’s secure.
Start with the black balance wire on BC0. Connect it to the negative-most terminal. Next, find the white wire
next to the black wire. This is BC1. The next wire is BC2, and so on. Install each per the diagram.
Figure 2.4.2.1: Balance lead connector and pinout, for 12V BMS
Figure 2.4.2.2: Balance lead connector and pinout, for 24V BMS
Spin the nuts on as you go. Suggest torque is 20 ft-lbs (27 Nm), or “Nice and snug.”
Warning: Do not pinch the balance wires under a nut! Instant smoke!
2.4.3 Prepare BMS
Place the BMS in its desired location. Ideally, it should be mounted vertically, either attached to the battery
cells, or mounted as close to them as possible. Ensure that it is mounted within reach of Cell #1’s negative
terminal (it should be labeled BC0).
If the B- wires do not reach the BC0 terminal, then they must either be lengthened, or replaced with a longer
cable. Longer, thicker pigtail cables are optional at the time of purchase.
2.4.3 Add BMS
Mount the BMS to the pack. Double-sided foam tape and/or zip ties can be used. Wire the BMS’s blue B-
pigtail cable to the Cell #1 BC0 terminal. Wire BMS’s C- terminal to the load’s negative connection (or, more
ideally, through a power distribution block as described in Section 2.2.1)
2.4.4 Positive Load Connection
Connect the positive-most connection on the battery to the load’s positive connection (or, more ideally,
through a power distribution block as described in Section 2.2.1).
2.4.5 Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor serves one purpose, and that’s to prolong the life of your battery cells when the
temperature is too high or too low. Recall that lithium batteries do not work well at temperature extremes.
This BMS is capable of protecting the battery cells in four different scenarios (each have their own trigger and
release temperatures, and delay times):
1. At extremely low temperatures, prevent charging
2. At extremely low temperatures, prevent discharging
3. At extremely high temperatures, prevent charging
4. At extremely high temperatures, prevent discharging
The thing to stress here is that the BMS must react to the cell temperature, not the temperature of the ambient
air. So the temperature sensor must be taped to the cells.
Here are some guidelines to follow:
●Tape the temperature sensor to the battery cell case.
●Do not tape the sensor to the plastic bits that may be on the top side of the battery.
●Placing the sensor between cells in the middle of the pack is better than placing it at the top or bottom
of the pack.
●Use Kapton tape if you have it, or can get it. Otherwise, any tape will do, (just make sure that it stays
adhered to the battery over the weeks, months, and years to come).
At this point, plug in the temperature sensor, if it was previously disconnected. Tape the sensor to the
battery, using the precautions listed above.
2.4.6 External Switch
An optional external switch can be wired to the BMS via the included 2-pin pigtail (JST-XH, red/black wires).
If the configuration option is enabled within the BMS, discharging will be disabled when the switch contact is
open. When the switch is closed (or a jumper is in the place of the 2-pin connector), the BMS will operate
normally.
Figure 2.4.6.1, diagram of a switch wired to the pigtail lead
Any switch will do here, as long as it’s not momentary. Toggle switches or rocker switches are recommended.
When soldering your switch to the lead, use heat-shrink tubing over the connections.
If you do not wish to use the external switch, you may either leave the included jumper in place, or configure
the BMS to not use the switch (see Section 3.4.1 for instructions).
2.4.7 Connectivity
For systems with multiple BMSs and battery packs, it may be desirable to use an external battery monitor to
visualize the complete system as a single unit.
2.4.7.1 Bluetooth Module
The Bluetooth module is an optional accessory that may be used to configure and monitor the BMS. See
Appendix E for instructions on using the iPhone or Android app.
To use, simply plug the 4-pin connector into the BMS. The BMS must be connected to the battery, with the
balance lead connected in order for the Bluetooth module to operate.
Note that other Bluetooth modules are not compatible. For best reception, mount the module high, ideally
away from metal. Do not mount it inside of a metal enclosure. The Bluetooth module may be left connected
to the BMS for long periods of time. It will go into a deep sleep mode when not in use.
2.4.7.1 USB Interface
The USB interface is an optional accessory that may be used to interface the BMS to a personal computer, or
an embedded single-board computer (e.g. Raspberry Pi).
The following applications are known to support the USB interface:
App Name
Author
Platform
Link
JBDTools
JBD / XiaoXang
Windows
JBDTools_V1.B-20180820.zip
TBD
Overkill Solar
Windows, Mac,
Linux, Raspberry Pi
Anticipated to be released by end
of Q4 2020
Before plugging in the USB interface, install the applicable software (see table above). Do not run the
software just yet.
A virtual-COM port driver must be installed before the USB interface is plugged into the host computer. The
drivers can be found here:
●Windows: FTDI VCP drivers come pre-installed on recent versions of Windows. If not, the drivers may
be downloaded here: CDM21228_Setup.zip
●OS X: FTDIUSBSerialDriver_v2_4_4.dmg
●Linux: All Modern Linux kernels support the FTDI FT232RL out-of-the-box. No driver download is
necessary.
Once the driver has installed successfully, the USB interface can be connected. Plug the 4-pin connector into
the BMS. The BMS must be connected to the battery, with the balance lead connected in order for the USB
module to operate. Plug the included USB cable to the other side of the black plastic JBD-UART-TOOLS case.
Then plug the other end of the USB cable to the computer. At this point, the computer should detect and
recognize the device as a virtual serial COM port. The application may now be started.
Instructions for using the application are covered in Appendix E.
Note that the USB interface does not consume any power from the BMS. It is powered from the USB port.
Therefore, leaving the USB interface plugged into the BMS for long periods of time will not drain the battery.
2.4.7.3 Arduino LCD Display
For the adventurous DIYer, we’ve written an Arduino library that is capable of displaying the following
parameters on a 20x4 character LCD screen: Voltage, current, power, capacity, state-of-charge, cycle count,
discharge/charge MOSFET status, protection status, individual cell voltages, temperatures, and more. The
construction and usage is beyond the scope of this instruction manual, but the library can be found here, and
the documentation can be found here.
3. BMS Parameters
3.1 Protection Parameters
3.1.1 Cell over voltage
Disconnects charging current if any cell voltage goes over the Trigger value.
Reconnects when all cells drop below the Release value.
3.1.2 Cell under voltage
Cuts off discharging current if any cell voltage goes under the Trigger value.
Reconnects when all cells rise above the Release value.
3.1.3 Battery over voltage
Cuts off charging current if entire pack goes over the Trigger value.
Reconnects when pack drops below the Release value.
3.1.4 Battery under voltage
Cuts off discharging current if entire pack falls under the Trigger value.
Reconnects when pack rises above the Release value.
3.1.5 Charge over current
Cuts off charging current if the current exceeds the trigger value, for [delay] seconds.
Reconnects after [release value] seconds.
3.1.6 Discharge over current
Cuts off discharging current if the current exceeds the trigger value, for [delay] seconds.
Reconnects after [release value] seconds.
3.1.7 Charge over temperature
Cuts off charging current if the probe temperature exceeds the trigger value.
Reconnects after the temp drops below the release value.
3.1.8 Charge under temperature
Cuts off charging current if the probe temp drops below the trigger value.
Reconnects after the probe temp rises above the release value.
3.1.9 Discharge over temperature
Cuts off discharging current if the probe temperature exceeds the trigger value.
Reconnects after the temp drops below the release value.
3.1.10 Discharge under temperature
Cuts off discharging current if the probe temp drops below the trigger value.
Reconnects after the probe temp rises above the release value.
3.2 Capacity Parameters
These parameters are used to display the battery capacity and to calculate the state of charge..
3.2.1 Designed Capacity
This should be set to the battery pack’s capacity, in amp hours (Ah). It is not used to calculate the state of
charge. It’s simply used when displaying the intended capacity of the cells. The actual capacity of the pack is
defined as the cycle capacity, which is described in the next section. Designed capacity can be calculated as
follows:
esigned capacity ell capacity arallel cell count of packD =C×P
NOTE: This parameter is displayed in milliamp hours in the iPhone app.
3.2.2 Cycle Capacity
This parameter is used to calculate state of charge. In the real world, batteries do not meet the designed
capacity printed on the cells. It can be higher, if the cell was underrated, or it can be lower (especially true for
used or B- or C-grade cells).
Ideally, the capacity of the battery pack should be measured, and the actual number should be programmed
into the BMS. Therefore:
ycle capacity ctual measured capacity of the packC =A
There are several ways to measure the pack’s total capacity. The easiest way is to set the cycle capacity to
hook a known DC load up to the battery, and measure the amount of time it takes from full charge down to
cutoff. Ensure that the protection parameters are set before starting. Charge up to 100% (see the section on
top-balancing). Note the start time. Record the pack voltage in 15 minute intervals (this info may be used to
set the percent capacity voltages, later in this section). Record the time when the BMS protection circuitry
cuts off the discharge current.
ycle capacity T est load current (A) otal run time (h)C= × T
NOTE: This parameter only affects the state of charge. If it is set too low, the state of charge will hit zero
percent before the battery is actually at zero percent. The state of charge percentage will never go negative.
3.2.3 Full Charge Voltage
This should be set to the cell’s voltage at full charge. This information typically comes from the battery cell’s
datasheet, but the recommended values in Appendix A may be used.
3.2.4 End of Discharge Voltage
This should be set to the cell’s voltage and end of discharge. This information typically comes from the battery
cell’s datasheet, but the recommended values in Appendix A may be used.
3.2.5 Discharge Rate
Leave this at the default setting.
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