Peinert 25 User manual

PEINERT 25 and 26
Assembly
The Peinert 25 or 26 is easily rigged, there are only four removable parts - the rigger, the
footstretcher, the seat and the fin. The boats share the same seat and rigger.
Installing and Removing the Rigger
DO NOT LOOSEN THE BOLT ON THE BOW SIDE OF THE BLACK BRACKET
(a 1/2” nutdriver and 1/2” open end wrench are supplied with the boat)
The standard quick release bow wing rigger is held into the boat by 4 pointed screws that seat
onto steel bushings that are press-fit into the rigger. To install the rigger, make sure that the stern
pointed screws are backed out until the points are near the inside edge of the black bracket. Slide
the bow end of the rigger onto the bow pointed screws where it will sit by itself. Then turn the
knurled wheels on the stern pointed screws to advance them into the bushings and secure the
rigger. If you plan to derig at the end of the row, you can probably make the screws tight enough
without using tools but make sure that all 4 pointed screws are solidly seated in the rigger. If the
rigger is to stay on the boat, gently tighten the pointed screws with a 1/2” nutdriver then, while
holding them from turning, use the 1/2” open end wrench to tighten the jam nuts against the black
bracket. This will lock them in place.
Removal is the reverse of this process. Loosen the stern jam nuts, back out the stern pointed
screws, slide the rigger back off the bow pointed screws and lift the rigger off.
Note- the bow end screws are adjusted and set when the boat is built to keep the rigger square
and should not be changed.
Note- if the rigger is the optional conventional 4 bolt mount then it will bolt on. There should be a
washer under both each of the bolt heads and each of the nuts but nothing in between the rigger
and the boat. The easiest way to mount the rigger is to use a spring clamp to hold it onto the
gunnel while threading the bolts, or you can have one bolt already inserted into the rigger and
catch it with a nut to keep the rigger sitting on the boat while you line up the other bolts.
Installing and Removing the Seat.
The standard seat is a single action ball bearing seat. To install, set the bow wheels into the
tracks, move the seat to the bow until the retaining clips slide under the flanges of the tracks.
Then bump the stern wheels over the end stops and onto the tracks. Removal is the reverse.
Note- the lowest part of the seat goes to the bow of the boat.

Removal of the footstretcher
The footstretcher is removed by unscrewing the three wing nuts and lifting it
out of the boat. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Installing and removing the fin
To install the fin you will need a small tube of silicone caulk, sometimes known as bathtub seal. You can
install the fin without it, it will not leak, but is more prone to falling out.
First, put a line of the caulk down the middle of the fin slot. (Avoid the ends of the slot or it will be more
difficult to remove a broken fin later). Then insert the bow end (pointed end) of the fin into the bow end of
the fin slot. Push the fin all the way down into the slot, and then towards the stern to engage the notch in
the stern edge of the fin. Wipe up any excess caulk.
To remove the fin, push it towards the bow (may be difficult because of hardened silicone) then pull up a
little on the stern of the fin until you can pull it back towards the stern and out.
Note- there are more detailed instructions with pictures on the peinert.com website under the FAQ tab.
Adjusting
The Peinert 25/26 is easy to adjust. Stretcher, height, and spread can be quickly set in the field.
Additional height and pitch adjustment is available by removing the C-clamp or the pin. The boats are
delivered with height, pitch and spread set to standard values for clubs or the size of the individual buyer,
so if you do not want to get involved in rigging you don't have to.
The stretcher is the most important setting. It should be set so that with blades buried at the finish and
moderate layback, the oar handles just brush your ribs. The stretcher is adjusted by loosening the three
wing nuts, lifting the stretcher slightly, moving it to the proper position and retightening the nuts. Be sure
the lugs on the stretcher properly engage the notches on the adjusting strips and that the stretcher is
square in the boat.
The shoes are bolted directly into the stretcher, usually as low as they can be in the boat. They can be
raised (or lowered) by unbolting them and resetting the bolts into a different set of holes. Additional holes
can be drilled on the dimples molded into the stretcher to fit almost any size H2Row pattern shoe. Use a
13/64” drill for Metric 5mm x 20mm long bolts.
Oarlock height is adjusted by moving the plastic washers from the top of the oarlock to the bottom or visa
versa. The rigger is built with the starboard end 5/8“ higher than the port end, so the arrangement of
height washers should be the same on each side if you want the left over right clearance. The oarlock can
be moved a full half inch up or down from the center position. If more change is needed, unbolt the C-
clamp using two 7/16” wrenches (one on the inside of the vertical tube) and move the bolt to one of the
higher or lower holes.
Spread is set by loosening but not removing the bolt on the C-clamp and rotating it in or out. There are
scratch marks on the vertical tube to mark 158 cm and 160 cm spread when the marks are just visible at
the outside edge of the C-clamp.
Pitch can also be set in one degree increments by switching the pitch bushings in the Concept II oarlocks.
Remove the pins as described above, using a 7/32” hex wrench and a 7/16” wrench on the flat at the top
of the pin.

Tracks should be set so that you can row with as much compression as you need but no more than that
to minimize track bite. To move the tracks fore and aft, reach through the hatch and loosen the plastic
wing nuts that are 16 inches apart on either side of the hatch. Slide the tracks to the best position and
retighten the wing nuts. If the wing nuts just won’t budge, we can send a small “wrench” that will help to
grab them.
Carrying and storing
The Peinert 25/26 is very sturdy. However, it is best not to over stress the skin of the boat where it is not
directly supported by the internal frame. In moving or storing the boat avoid putting great pressure on any
one point of the flexible parts of the hull or deck.
The Peinert 25/26 can be picked up in several ways. The easiest is to grab the handle on the bulkhead
between the platform and the footwell with one hand and to grab the crossbar of the rigger with the other.
You may also grasp both sides of the washbox at the balance point (just to the bow of the handle). You
can also reach under the hull and cradle it at the balance point. Like all singles, if I need to carry it more
than a few steps, I find it easiest to carry upside down, platform resting on the top of my head, one hand
holding the rigger in front of me for fore and aft trim, the other hand holding the edge of the washbox for
sideways trim. You can also put boat at a diagonal with the edge of the washbox resting on your shoulder
and the platform leaning over your head.
Note- it is better not to carry the boat with the hull on the point of your shoulder as this may put too much
pressure on a single point of the single skin hull.
Two people may carry the boat, each holding it wherever convenient at their end of the boat.
For any kind of regular or long-term storage the boat should be supported in two places. about eight to
eleven feet apart, which works out to just ahead of and just behind the washbox. Do not store your
Peinert 25/26 supported at the very ends, balanced on the middle, or sideways (anything not hull straight
up or straight down). On a rack, upside down (hull up) is more stable and the best choice. Make sure that
the boat is squarely on the center of the deck so that the deck does not hinge over the interior frame. A
good way to do this is to keep it on 3 points, with one support on the deck and the other on the bow or
stern end of the washbox. The boat can also be slung in overhead straps or sit on slings. Hull up is best
unless it is inside where rain and debris will not collect in the cockpit and be careful that the slings cannot
blow over when the boat is in them.
For storage or transport the Peinert 25/26 can sit on the washbox or on the centerline of the deck or hull
anywhere from the bow end of the frame to the stern end of the frame. The bow end of the frame is
located at the slight bump in the middle of the deck, the stern end of the frame at the stern end of the fin -
you can feel through the deck where the frame ends.
The washbox of the Peinert 25/26 is more than strong enough for the boat to be transported on your car
resting upside down with the washbox on your conventional roof racks. It may be helpful to use some
stops on the front crossbar to stop the boat from slewing side to side at speed. Just be sure the racks are
securely attached to the car and tie the Peinert 26 to the racks with rope, straps or some other secure
method of fastening. The ropes or straps should be tight but not so tight that the hull starts to deform.
Almost all the commercial boat carriers will also satisfactorily carry the Peinert 25/26, just be careful not to
put point loads on the hull.
Note- there are more detailed instructions with diagrams on the peinert.com website under the FAQ tab.

Care
The silane paint finish of the Peinert 25/26 is easy to keep clean. A quick wipe after every row will take
care of pond scum and pollution, but if you forget or it gets dirty anyway, any mild soap and water will
suffice to wash it off.
If you row in salt water, the metal parts will last longer if you can rinse the boat with fresh water after each
row. Even stainless steel will rust a little, given the chance.
If the finish becomes dull or so dirty that soap and water are no longer effective, any mild polish will
restore the shine.
You can wax the Peinert 25/26, just like your car, to preserve the finish. To be technically exact, wax will
slow the boat down in the water, but it is on the order of a tenth of a percent. Car wax is fine, you don't
need marine or fiberglass wax, which is the same stuff but costs twice as much.
The only wear parts are the oarlocks, tracks, wheels with bearings on the seat and shoes. Oarlocks,
wheels, and tracks should last for thousands of miles, but if they begin to feel rough it is time to replace
them. The best maintenance is to keep them clean, especially to keep sand from beach launches out of
the tracks. I recommend frequent wipes of the tracks with a cotton rag. Lubrication of these parts is not
necessary, although it may help to silence a squeak. Any of the "dry" teflon lubricants work well, oily or
waxy lubricants such as WD-40 should not be used as they will hold the grit that wears out the parts.
To replace the oarlocks, use a 7/32” hex wrench to unbolt the pins from the C-clamp, slide the pin out of
the clamp and slide the oarlock and spacers off the pin. If the pin spins against the wrench, there is a flat
ground onto the top of the pin for a 7/16” wrench. Just remove the top spacers to expose the flat.
Tracks are bolted into the platform and removed by reaching through the hatch and undoing the wingnuts.
Wheels are bolted onto the seat and can be ordered from Dreher or Peinert.
Repair
The Peinert 25/26 is very damage resistant for a racing single and is unlikely to need repairs. For any
kind of serious damage it would be best to contact Peinert Boat Works for repair and/or advice.
The painted finish of the Peinert 25/26 may, over time, become scratched. If the scratches are not deep,
they can be improved by power buffing or fine wet sanding followed by power or hand buffing. I would
suggest that you start with 600 grit wet or dry paper, then 1200 and 2000 grit, then buffing. The paint is
hard but very thin, so care must be used not to sand through to the Kevlar (which is a yellow color).
Collisions or abuse may result in holes or slight "creases" in the boat. The Kevlar layer means that the
boat will almost always snap back into shape and allow you to row home. If not large, you can cover
them with waterproof mending tape and continue to use the boat. Repair involves some knowledge of
fiberglass work, Peinert Boat Works will be happy to assist with materials and advice.