Performance Catamarans Prindle 18-2 User manual

INTRODUCTION
This owner’s manual is provided to ease assembly,
maintenance and use of your Prindle Catamaran. We
believe these instructions portray the simplest methods.
Do it our way the first time and learn from us. Then, if
you discover a better method, feel free to tell us about
it by faxing [phone] or e-mailing pcat@perfor-
mancecat.com. You may see your idea appear in the
next edition of the owner’s manual.
We are sure you will enjoy your Prindle Catamaran and
hope that this manual will make your enjoyment easier
to come by.
Make sure you join the Prindle Class Association - it’s fun
and it’s free to any new owner of a Prindle Catamaran
($20 annually after the first year). You will receive the
Performance Sailor, our official class newsletter. This
newsletter contains feature articles, news and results of
regattas, photographs, timely tuning tips, special
announcements and contests. As a member of the
Prindle Class Association, you will also be entitled to
enter and participate in all of our Class sanctioned regat-
tas.
One design racing begins at the local fleet level leading
to regional qualifying regattas and culminates with the
Annual National Championship Regattas held in a differ-
ent region every year. Even if you are not a racer, join
the Prindle Fleet in your area. Our fleets have held such
fun events as watermelon hunts, hull flying contests,
group cruises, Prindle barge picnics and clinics. It’s
much more fun to share the joy of sailing a Prindle
Catamaran. If a fleet does not exist in your area - start
one! All you need is a few enthusiastic owners!
Make sure your dealer fills out and submits your war-
ranty card for your new boat. Not only does it validate
your warranty, but it will also automatically register you
as a member of the Prindle Class Association. If you
have purchased a used Prindle, please send us your sail
and hull numbers as well as your complete address.
Make sure to notify us when you move too, the
Performance Sailor does not get forwarded.
Keep in touch. We love to hear from our owners!
1800 East Borchard Avenue
Santa Ana, CA 92705
[phone]
[phone] fax
www.performancecat.com
CONTENTS
SECTION I: ASSEMBLY
Preparation 3
Crossbars 3
Trampoline 5
Standard Jib System 8
Deluxe 4-Way Jib System 8
Jib Sheet 10
Rudder System 11
Castings 11
Tiller Crossbar 11
Tiller Extension 11
Rudder Blades 12
Rudder Lock Bolt 12
Adjusting the Helm 12
Rudder Alignment 13
Operation of Rudder System 13
Mast and Rigging 14
Spreaders 14
Diamond Wires 15
Mast Rotator 16
Masthorn 16
Shrouds and Trapeze Wires 17
Forestay and Jib Halyard 17
Main Halyard 17
Raising the Mast 18
Diamond Wires 20
Sails and Battens 21
Mainsail Battens 21
Hoisting the Mainsail 22
Boom 23
Mast Rotator 23
Downhaul 23
Mainsheet and Traveler 24
Jib 24
Jib Sheet Jam Preventer 26
Righting Line 26
Tightening rig tension 26
Centerboard 27
SECTION II: SAILING
Sail Trim
To Weather 27
Reaching 28
Downwind 28
Downhaul Systems 28
Trapezing
Lacing the Harness 28
Trapeze Positioning 29
Launching
Onshore 30
Offshore 30
Tacking 31
Jibing 32
Balance 33
Righting 33
SECTION III: AFTER SAILING
Loosening the rig 36
Lowering the sails 36
Trailering 38
SECTION IV: MAINTENANCE
Dolphin Striker 40
Battens 41
Foam/Fiberglass Battens 41
General Maintenance Tips 41
Hulls 41
Rudders 41
Sails 42
Outhaul Systems 42
SECTION V: TUNING PERFORMANCE
Mast Rake 43
Mast Rotation 43
Barberhauler 43
SECTION VI: SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION
Major Parts of a Boat 44
Glossary of Terms 45
Knot Illustrations 46

Prindle 18-2 & 19 Owner’s Manual
Section I:
ASSEMBLY
Preparation
Tools needed:
✔large screwdriver
✔pliers
✔needle-nose pliers
✔1/2” offset wrench
✔combination 1/2” & 9/16 box-end wrench
✔adjustable wrench
✔silicone sealant
Your Prindle Catamaran comes packaged in
two hull containers, one large hardware box
and one mast box.
Place the two hull containers approximately 6
feet apart with stapled seams at the top of the
cartons facing each other. This will insure that
both hulls will be facing the same direction.
Open the hull containers. Leave the hulls
standing on the cardboard supports.
Open the hardware box and familiarize your-
self with the major parts of your boat. The
contents of the hardware box should include:
Open the rigging box. The contents will be
listed on the sheet enclosed.
CROSSBARS
Put a dab of grease (included in bolt kit) into
each hole in the hull for the front beam bolts.
This is very important! Put a small amount on
each of the 3/8” hex head front beam bolts
before assembling crossbars. The front beam
bolts are tapped into an aluminum plate.
boom
battens
rear crossbar
sails (may be packed
with hulls)
trampoline
rudder box
tiller crossbar
tiller extension
3

Lay both the front and rear cross bars on the
hulls with the outside edges even with the out-
side edges of the hulls. The curf (groove) on
the front crossbar should face aft and the curf
on the back crossbar should face forward.
To attach inside bolts on the rear crossbar,
insert one of the 5/16” flathead screws
through the inboard hold of the rear crossbar.
Apply silicone sealant to washer and nut and
tighten with fingers only.
Align holes in front beam with the holes in the
hull. Carefully thread all 4 of the 3/8” hex
head bolts, with grease on threads, through
the beam and into the hull until they are about
1/8” from being completely tight. CAUTION!!!
If the 3/88” bolts bind at all, remove the bolts
and check fit of bolt without the beam on. DO
NOT force bolts as you could strip out the alu-
minum plate inside the hull. If the bolt con-
tinues to bind, use a 3/8-16 tap and rethread
the hole to rectify the problem.
Tighten all rear beam bolts until about 1/8”
from being fully snug. This allows beams to
properly align themselves. Snug down all 8
bolts and then tighten all 8 bolts.
4

TRAMPOLINE
Lead trapeze shockcords before putting tram-
poline on hulls. Tie one piece of 1/8" x 2’
paracord to one end of shock cord using a
small bowline knot.
Feed the line through the white fairlead on
side of hull and out the other side. Continue
across to the other hull and repeat procedure.
The trapezes are continuous from one hull to
the other.
If one of the fairleads should come loose dur-
ing assembly, simply apply some silicone
sealant and push into place.
To install the trampoline, first unzip and
remove the rear section. Slip the front of the
trampoline onto the front crossbar.
5

Slide the sides down each side of the trampo-
line track. Two people are needed here.
Slide the rear piece and zip the two pieces
together.
Center the trampoline in the front. Lace up
the back of the trampoline with 1/4" x 19’ lac-
ing line. Begin by tying a double overhand
knot in one end of the line and thread through
the right/aft grommet.
6

Always tighten rear lace line first. Stand at the
back of the boat and tighten lines by bracing
your foot or knee on the rear crossbar for
leverage. Pull tight. Tie line off under trampo-
line. Do not trim excess line as it leaves
something to hold onto when re-tightening
trampoline.
Lace up the side of the trampoline with 1/4" x
19’ lacing line. Begin by tying a double over-
hand knot in one end of the line and thread
through the forward/inboard grommet.
Tighten starting at the front.
Complete lacing.
7

STANDARD JIB SYSTEM
Attach jib block to padeye on side jib tracks.
Note: there will be an aluminum cleat on the
deck just forward on the jib track, this is for
future addition of the 4-way jib system as is
the "sock" on the trampoline.
DELUXE 4-WAY JIB SYSTEM
The parts are included in a separate bag.
If the jib cars have installed padeyes remove
them since they will not be used.
Attach jib adjuster plate to both sides.
Attach jib crosswire to adjuster plate, leading
wire through the tramp sock, choosing one of
four middle holes on each side so the wire is
snug. NOTE: You may find it necessary to
remove the plate to put the "O" ring on the
clevis pin.
Attach the small bullet blocks to the forward
most hole on each adjuster plate using a
3/16" shackle.
8

Shackle the jib blocks to each of the two bul-
let blocks on the crosswire.
Adjust the cleat angle as high as possible
using the side set screws. Most people prefer
this position.
The jib blocks have a ratchet which can be
turned off and on by using the button on the
side of the block.
Tie each 1/4" x 8 1/2’ line completely around
the jib block shackle – not through.
Lead the line around the bullet block on the
adjuster plate and through the aluminum
cleat on the opposite side of the boat leading
line through the trampoline sock.
9

Lead the shockcord through both loops in the
lines around jib shackles and tie shockcord
together. Slide the knot into the sock to hide
from view.
One side of 4-way system completed.
Entire 4-way system completed.
JIB SHEET
Tie a 1/4" shackle to the middle of the 3/16"
x 6’ line provided.
Tie the small jib clew blocks to each end of the
line using a small bowline. Thread the 5/16" x
33’ jib sheet line by tying off one end to jib
ratchet block with a bowline. Thread through
small jib clew blocks, through cleat of jib
block, across trampoline and through opposite
jib block in opposite direction. Jib sheet
should be one continuous line.
10

RUDDER SYSTEM
Remove cradles out from under hulls and peel
off protecting paper from Prindle logo on hull.
Open rudder box, it should contain: left &
right rudder castings with tiller arms and com-
plete workings installed, and two rudder
blades with lock pins attached.
CASTINGS
To install rudder castings onto transom, make
sure Prindle insignia is on outboard side.
Remove cotter key and pintle from casting.
Line up casting with gudgeons on transom
and reinsert pintle through gudgeons and
casting.
TILLER CROSSBAR
To attach tiller crossbar to tiller arms, remove
1/4" bolt, washer, and lock nut from end of
tiller arm. Place tiller crossbar over tillers with
large hole at end facing up and end cap pop
rivet facing aft. Drop 1/4" bolt down through
crossbar, putting washer between tiller cross-
bar and tiller arm. Insert 1/4" bolt through
hole in tiller arm and put lock nut on end.
Make sure lines inside tiller go on either side
of bolt, do not cross them. Do not put the nut
on the bolt at adjuster end of crossbar until
rudders have been aligned (instructions
later).
TILLER EXTENSION
Remove lock nut from end of tiller extension.
Attach extension to tiller crossbar and re-
attach lock nut.
11

Tiller extension should be able to touch tram-
poline easily. If it does not, the tiller crossbar
has been installed backwards.
RUDDER BLADES
To install rudder blades into rudder castings,
untie ends of downhaul and uphaul lines in
castings, but do not unlace. Remove 1/4" bolt
with lock nut. Place rudder blade between
casting with lock pin forward. Reinstate 1/4"
bolt through casting and 1/4" hole in rudder
blade. Replace lock nut and tighten until rud-
der will just fall by itself. Do not over-tighten
as this will restrict rudder movement, too
loose and rudder will be sloppy in casting.
Thread downhaul and uphaul lines into rudder
blade and tie off ends with a figure eight knot.
Make sure the ends do not extend beyond the
edge of blade. Follow same procedure on both
blades.
RUDDER LOCK BOLT
The rudder lock bolt is on the forward edge of
each rudder blade. It is necessary to adjust
this bolt to obtain proper helm. Making the
bolt longer produces more weather helm
(heavy steering) and shortening the bolt
decreases weather helm (easier steering).
ADJUSTING HELM
We recommend the following method for
adjusting the rudders before the boat is
sailed.
Place boat so there is clearance to lower rud-
ders and lock down. Take a short batten or
yardstick and lay the straight edge flush
against the transom. Adjust the lock bolt so
that the forward button edge of the rudder is
about 1/4" to 3/8" forward of the forward
edge of the batten. (Pull rudder back lightly to
pull out any slop). 1/4" to 3/8" forward is a
good starting point, further adjustment may
be necessary for personal preference.
Note: As the mast is raked aft, the rudders
must be raked forward to balance helm.
12

RUDDER ALIGNMENT
Lock both rudders
down. Measure 20”
up the leading edge
of rudcder and mark
this measurement.
Do the same on the
trailing edge.
Turn the rudders so
they are pointing
down the hull as if
sailing straight
ahead.
Measure from the
front edge of one
rudder blade (20”
up) to the centerline
of the front edge of
the other blade. Do
the same with the
trailing edge.
If the distance between the trailing edges is greater
than that of the front edges; lengthen the tiller
adjuster by unscrewing it.
If the distance between the front edges is greater
than that of the trailing edges; shorten the tiller
adjuster by screwing it in.
One complete turn is 1/16 of an inch.
Attach adjuster end of tiller crossbar to tiller.
Example: if the distance between the front edges is
86” and the distance between the trailing edges is
86-1/2”
13

CAUTION!!!! Check for overhead wires before raising mast. A
mast which comes in contact with electrical powerlines can cause
serious injury or death.
Prindle 15 mast step hinge in use Prindle 16 mast step hinge in use
14

Prindle 18 mast step hinge in use
Stand on trampoline with one foot on
rear crossbar to steady yourself.
15

Raise the mast to your shoulder and walk
forward with it while extending arms over
your head until the mast is held by the side
shrouds.
Attach the
forestay to the
1/4” shackle hold-
ing the bow bridle
wires together.
After this initial
rigging you can
leave the forestay
turnbuckle pre-
set.
Tighten turnbuckle
until mast is raked
slightly aft of
straight up. See
Performance
Tuning section for
optimum mast
rake suggestion.
If the shrouds are
in one of the top
holes the rig will
be a little loose.
After hoisting the
mainsail we will
explain how to
tighten the rig.,
Use a wrench or
pliers to tighten
the nuts against
the turnbuckle
barrel. This will
help keep it from
unturning.
NOTE: Make sure
to tape the turn-
buckle barrel and
nuts to prevent
them from loosen-
ing.
Diamond Wires Prindle 18:
Adjusting the ten-
sion of the dia-
mond wires
should be done
with care. Before
the sails are
hoisted, but after
the mast has
been stepped;
adjust both dia-
mond wires to
the same tight-
ness. If one is
looser than the
other your mast
will bend more on
one tack than the
other.
Push both wires towards the mast with equal
tension at the same time. The wires should
touch the mast at least 12” above the lower
attachment point but not more than 20”
above.
If the diamond wires are too tight, your mast
will not bend and undo strain will be put on
these wires.
WARNING: If the diamond wires are too
loose the mast could break under high pres -
sure loads.
16

Be sure to tape the locking nuts on turn-
buckles after you have adjusted the wires so
that they will not unturn. SAILING NOTE:
The looser the diamond wires are the more
the mast will bend and the flatter the sail will
become (and vice versa).
A way to insure
that the turn-
buckles on mast
do not loosen is
to thread a small
line (batten tie)
through the cen-
ter hole in each
barrel, tying a
knot on the back
side of the barrel.
SAILS AND BATTENS
Mainsail battens
The Prindle mainsail has a batten between
each panel of cloth. The longest one is the
second one up from the boom. The rest go
from long to short as you progress up the
sail. The 15 and 16 each have nine battens,
the 18 has 10.
Remove batten string ties from clew of main-
sail.
Fold batten string in half and loop through
batten grommet on leech of sail.
Insert tapered end of each batten (foam
core) or the end with rounded edges (fiber-
glass) into batten pockets making sure each
batten fits into the pocket end protector at
forward edge of sail. Put plastic caps on aft
end of fiberglass battens.
Lead string up through either hole in foam
batten or through end cap and down through
top grommet and tie an overhand knot
(tightly) while pushing batten into sail with
thumb.
Push batten tight enough to eliminate all
wrinkles in batten pocket if using fiberglass
battens. Foam battens should be tight
enough to just “flop” from side to side.
17

Finish tying string with a square knot and
tuck loose ends into batten pocket.
Finished tie on fiberglass batten.
Hoisting the mainsail
Face your boat into the wind when raising or
lowering your sails. Lay the mainsail to the
batten ends will not get caught on the tiller
crossbar.
Prindle 15 & 18:
Attach the twisted
shackle to the
main halyard
ring. NOTE: The
halyard should
follow the curf of
the mast and not
wrap around the
hook at the mast-
head.
Attach the twisted shackle to the head of the
mainsail and place forward edge of sail into
curf of mast.
With one hand, feed the sail into the curf
and pull on rope tail of halyard (exiting at
base of mast) with the other.
Make sure the
mast base sheave,
or roller, spins
freely while raising
the sail. If it does
not, you may need
to file the inside of
the mast base
casting.
When the sail
reaches the top
of the mast, you
must lock the
ring on the hal-
yard line to the
hook at the head
of the mast. To
do this, pull hal-
yard until the ring
is above the
hook.
Rotate mast (push
rotator) towards
the starboard hull)
so hook is inside
ring and pull down
on the tack of the
sail gently until
the ring locks onto
the hook.
Coil the extra
main halyard line
and store in one of
the pockets on the
trampoline.
18

Prindle 16:
Attach main hal-
yard shackle into
hole at head of
mainsail.
Place forward
edge of sail into
curf of mast.
With one hand,
feed the curf and
pull on rope tail
of halyard with
the other. Pull
from directly for-
ward of mast and
not off to either
side. This helps
to prevent hal-
yard from jump-
ing out of mast
head sheaves.
When the sail
reaches the top of
mast, you must
secure the second
metal stop on the
halyard wire into
the halyard lock
on the mast. DO
this by leading
wire between
teeth on lock and
pulling down on
sail to put tension
on the metal stop.
The other stop,
further down on
the halyard wire,
is for a reefed main only.
Cleat main halyard off and stow extra line.
Boom
Remove clevis pin from gooseneck assembly
attached to forward end of boom. Connect
boom to the bracket on the mast using this
clevis pin and cotter ring.
Remove clevis in from outhaul car on aft end
of boom and lift boom to aft end of mainsail.
Clew ring of sail goes in between sides of
outhaul car. Reinsert clevis pin through sail
and outhaul car. Install cotter ring in end of
clevis pin.
Mast Rotator
(previously installed onto mast)
Tie rotator line 3/16” x 5’) to fairlead built
into the aluminum clam cleat, down through
the eye in the rotator wishbone and back
through the cleat. This provides a 2:1 pur-
chase for adjusting mast rotation. 45 to 75
degrees rotation is considered normal for
most sailing.
19

Downhaul
Tie downhaul line (3/16” x 7’) to tack ring of
mainsail and lead:
1) Through pulley on gooseneck on port
side of mast
2) Through tack ring on sail
3) Around pulley on starboard side of mast
4) Back through tack ring and down to cleat
Prindle 15 and 18 Note: Lines are lead
through inside of rotator wishbone. A
method used by many racers to increase
purchase is to tie the line through “U” brack-
et on gooseneck base first, lead it up
through the tack ring, and then follow steps
1 to 4.
Mainsheet and Traveler
Prindle 15 & 16:
To thread main-
sheet blocks (6:1
purchase) lay
blocks on a flat
surface with the
lower ratchet
block facing right
and the upper
block on rollers as
shown. Feed line
through cleat and
middle roller
(ratchet) of lower block and lead:
1) Through first
roller of upper
block
2) Up through out-
side roller of lower
block
3) Down through
middle roller of
upper block
4) Up through inside
roller of lower back
5) Through last roller
of upper block
6) Down through fair-
lead on cleat base of
lower block and tie off
with a single overhand
knot.
Prindle 18:
To thread mainsheet
blocks (7:1 purchase)
lay blocks on their
sides on a flat surface.
Feed line away from
you through cleat and
ratchet roller of lower
block and lead:
1) Towards you
through bottom of
roller of upper boom
block
2) Away through bot-
tom roller of lower
block
3) Towards you
through top roller of
upper block
4) Away through mid-
dle roller of lower
block
5) Towards you
through top roller of upper block
6) Away through top roller of lower block
7) Tie to becket of upper block with bowline
All boats: Install upper block to block hang-
er on boom with 1/4” shackle. Install lower
block to traveler with 1/4” shackle.
20