Pilot-1 Aeronca Champ Quick start guide

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1/4 scale “Aeronca Champ”ARF
Wingspan: 105 in. (2667mm)
Length: 65 in. (1651mm)
Wing Area: 1542 in². (995dm²)
Weight RTF (electric): 15.5 lbs. (7kg)

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Introduction & History
The full-scale Aeronca Champion, or “Champ,” was manufactured by the Aeronca
Aircraft Corporation, in Middletown, Ohio between 1944 and 1951. Over 10,000 were
built. In 1946, it was marketed as “the newest in aerodynamic design! . . . It’s the easiest
plane you’ve ever flown. ”Like the Piper Cub with which it competed, the Champ also
featured tandem seating. While the Piper Cub is soloed from the rear seat, the Champ
can be soloed from the front seat, giving improved forward visibility on the ground, and
during takeoffs, climbs, landings. Although the Aeronca Champ has a wider cabin than
the Piper Cub, the Champ’s cruise speed was about 15mph faster. Its Continental 65hp
engine powered it to a top speed of 100 mph.
Pilot-1 is pleased to announce the 1/4 scale Aeronca Champ as part of the Golden Age
Civilian Series. The Pilot-1 “Champ” encompasses the same attributes in quality
construction and handling that made the original Aeronca Champ a favorite for over 50
years. Our engineers have spent countless hours developing a true-to-scale ARF that
looks and flies like the full-scale Champ. We know you will be pleased with its scale
looks and balanced maneuverability. In fact, our local model airplane pilots formed a
line so they each could get a chance to fly the prototype. All agree, for scale aircraft, it
may very well be the “easiest plane you’ve ever flown!”
Hobby Lobby International, Inc.
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, TN 37027
1-866-WE-FLY-RC
(1-866-933-5972)
www.hobby-lobby.com

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Before starting, use the Contents list to take an inventory and make sure it is complete.
If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, contact Hobby-Lobby.com
Support at 1-866-WE-FLY-RC (1-866-933-5972)
Contents List
Fuselage
Battery Hatch
Engine Cowl
Landing Gear
Wheels, Velcro, Misc Hardware packages
Wings
Wing Center Section
Tube Wing Joiners
Wing Struts and Wing Jury Struts
Horizontal Tail
Vertical Tail
Pushrods
Additional Items Required (electric version)
4-channel Aircraft Radio w/ Receiver (minimum)
(2) 6000mah, 4-cell, 14.8v LiPo batteries
(4) Hitec HS-635HB servos (or equivalent)
Duralite 6v Voltage Regulator and LiPo Receiver Battery
77 amp Jeti SPIN Brushless ESC
Jeti SPIN Box Programmer
AXI 5320/28 Brushless Motor
AMM111 Aluminum Motor Mount Kit
APC 20x12W “E” Propeller
5-minute Epoxy Glue
Thin CA Glue
Small Phillips screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Hobby Knife
Soldering Iron and Electrical Solder

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1. Locate the aileron assembly bag for the next
few steps.
2. Use your radio or our Manual Servo
Adjuster (p/n MSA725) to make sure the
aileron servo is centered. Install the servo
arm 90º to the servo and in the center of the
slot as shown.
3. Prepare servo attachment blocks for gluing.
Some trimming may be necessary.
4. While holding servo on plate, use 5min
Epoxy to glue blocks in place. Once dry, drill
(4) pilot holes in the wood blocks, then use
servo screws and rubber grommets to
secure servo in place.

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5. Attach 24” servo wire extension to aileron
servo lead and secure with tape, heat shrink
tubing, or Graupner servo retaining clips
(p/n GR3503).
6. Break string loose from aileron servo bay
and tape to servo wire. Use this string to pull
wire through wing. Insert finished servo and
hatch cover into wing and secure with small
sheet metal screws.
7. Use tape to keep aileron servo wire from
falling into wing.
8. Locate the “CA” hinges bag. These will be
installed using thin CA glue.

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9. Prepare the CA hinges by folding in half as
shown. This technique helps keep the
hinges centered during installation.
10.Trial fit aileron in place before gluing.
Careful attention should be placed on gaps
at ends of aileron.
11.With the aileron tight and deflected
downward, use 2 to 3 drops per hinge of thin
CA to assure strong bonds. Use paper towel
to remove any excess CA before it dries.
Then flip wing over and repeat for opposite
side of hinge, again 2-3 drops of thin CA per
hinge.
12.The Aileron Horn needs a hole to be drilled
through the aileron. Use a pen and straight
edge to mark aileron parallel to the hatch
cover slot.

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13.Use aileron horn washer as a guide to how
far back on aileron to drill. Mark center on
washer with pen.
14.Drill a 1/8” hole through wing. Take special
care to keep drill straight.
15.Install washer on screw, then insert through
aileron. Then insert another washer, tapered
nut, and nylon horn as shown. Tighten snug
but do not crush wood.
16.Install aileron pushrod, nut, clevis, and
clevis safety tubing as shown. With servo
centered, adjust pushrod length to level
aileron.

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17. Repeat for opposite wing panel.
18.Install the Elevator servo. The servo is
centered and control horn should be
installed as shown.
19.Prepare the Elevator pushrod for
installation.
20.Insert elevator pushrod through front of
plane making sure to position it below
bulkhead horizontal braces.

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21.Insert pushrod into hole at rear of fuselage.
This photo is looking aft inside fuselage.
22.Install aluminum cross piece and sight
through hole for alignment.
23.Use masking tape to hold cap screw on ball
driver. Insert screw through hole in bottom
of fuselage.
24.Apply a small drop of CA or blue locktite to
hold screw in place.

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25.Locate the Rudder pull-pull and control horn
bag.
26.Cut the rudder pull-pull cable into two (2)
pieces. Then install rudder pull-pull cable as
shown and crimp with pliers.
27.Install the rudder servo and pull leads thru
fuselage with small piece of music wire or
straightened coat hanger wire. Use tape to
hold cables at aft end of fuselage.
28.Install Elevator CA hinges using the same
technique as the ailerons. Trial fit then use
2-3 drops thin CA per hinge per side.

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29.Trial fit the Elevator and Vertical Stab on the
fuselage. Use a pen to mark where the
covering needs to be removed for gluing.
Use a soldering iron to remove covering. Be
very careful not to damage wood! (Do not
use a knife here or it can lead to in-flight
structural failure!)
30.This is what the bottom of the Horizontal
Stabilizer should look like when you are
done.
31. This is what the top of the horizontal
stabilizer should look like. Don’t forget to
remove any covering from the bottom of the
vertical stabilizer before gluing.
32.Install the wing center section and main spar
onto fuselage. Trial fit the tail assembly.
When satisfied with the fit, install the tail
section using 5-min epoxy. Be careful to
maintain alignment during gluing.

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33.Keep the horizontal stabilizer and wing spar
parallel. Also keep the vertical stabilizer 90
degrees to the horizontal stabilizer. Hold in
place until glue sets (about 5min). Slight
misalignment can be corrected with the tail
brace wires.
34. Locate the tailwheel assembly bag.
35. Assemble tailwheel as shown. Add a drop
of light oil to aluminum bracket and wire.
Then use 5min Epoxy to glue tailwheel post
into rudder. Make sure it is completely flush
with leading edge of rudder.
36.Test fit the Rudder to the vertical stabilizer.
Move rudder up or down to adjust gap as
shown, approximately 1/16” (2mm).

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37.Move rudder to full deflection and use 2-3
drops of thin CA per hinge. Then repeat for
opposite side of hinge.
38.Drill small pilot holes in tailwheel bracket
and install three (3) sheet metal screws.
Test rudder to make sure it moves easily.
39.Use masking tape to hold rudder in center
for installing pull-pull cable. Also, the radio
should also be on or use a servo position
adjuster to hold the rudder servo straight.
40.Install control horn and assemble as shown
on both sides of rudder. Make sure rudder
and servo are centered. Lightly pull slack
from cable. Then crimp aluminum tubes as
shown. .Remove tape from rudder. Cables
should be tightened enough to remove any
slop in the rudder system. Do not over
tighten!

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41.Locate the Elevator control system bag.
42.Install control horns and pushrods as
shown. Make sure to use locknuts on
pushrods.
43.Center the elevator servo. Adjust pushrods
so that each elevator half is level.
44.Locate the tail brace assembly pack for the
next few steps.

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45.Start by cutting the cable into four equal
lengths. Then assemble as shown on one
(1) end of each cable. Position clevis about
half way out on threaded coupler. Note how
the wire is looped twice through the crimp
for safety. Use needle nose pliers to crimp
the aluminum tube.
46. Install the brackets with machine screws
and nuts. Install clevis with wire as shown.
47. Install the brackets with machine screws
and nuts. Assemble unfinished wire end as
shown, pull slack out of wire, and crimp
aluminum tube with pliers.
48.The finished tail brace wires should look like
this.

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49. Another photo of the completed lower tail
brace wire and bracket.
50.Locate the landing gear assembly bag.
51.Use aluminum brackets as a guide and drill
1/16” (1.5mm) pilot holes as shown.
52.Install screws for landing gear straps. Do
not install wheels until later to keep plane
more stable during building.

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53.Assemble your power system per
manufacturer’s instructions. This is the
recommended setup below. Install a 6”
servo extension to the throttle control lead of
the ESC (black connector for Jeti SPIN) and
wrap connector with tape or heat shrink
tubing.
54.Solder a Deans Series connector onto
speed control and cover exposed solder
joints with PFM or Clear Silicon.
55.Connect the wires as shown for the stock
setup. This allows motor to turn correct
direction.
56.Prepare to install the motor, ESC, and
aluminum standoffs. For the standard setup,
use the 1” (25mm) spacers and the 1-1/2”
(40mm) Cap head screws, lock washers,
and large washers as shown.

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57.Use small drop of blue locktite on each bolt
and tighten. Make sure the bolts do not
extend too far into motor case. See motor
installation manual for more information.
58.Drill pilot holes and install the ESC with
small sheet metal screws on the bottom of
the motor mount.
59.Install the motor mount with the open side
facing up. Route ESC wires through the
firewall.
60.Locate the two pieces of Velcro and trial fit
them like this. These will be used to hold
batteries in place. You may also want to add
a second strap of your own.

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61.Install battery hold down Velcro through
precut holes in battery tray.
62.Install LiPo flight batteries and secure with
Velcro strap. Also attach Deans Series Plug
on the back of the firewall as shown using
PFM glue or similar.
63.Assemble your receiver power system as
needed. Here we used a 2000mah Duralite
LiPo battery and Duralite Regulator with
switch. Install in plane and secure
components with Velcro or Velcro straps.
64.Notice how the receiver battery lead is
constructed using a spare 6” heavy duty
servo extension and Deans Ultra plug
soldered together. Use extra long heat
shrink tubing to support the solder joint. You
will charge through the Deans Ultra plug.
The servo lead goes to our regulator/switch
which then powers the receiver.