Platinum Chariot S3 Assembly instructions

Chariot S3
Offroad Camper
User Manual and Guide
2019 Model Shown
Read owner’s manual before using the equipment. Third party component manuals should be read in
conjunction with this manual. Maintenance guidelines must be met or exceeded, failing to meet these guidelines
may result in serious injury or death and property damage.

WARNING
Before using this product you should read this manual and those manuals supplied
bycomponent manufacturers applicable to this product.
This manual is supplied as a reference to required maintenance of the product. Failure to
use and maintain the product in accordance with what is outlined in this manual may affect
your warranty.
Incorrect and/or insufficient maintenance may cause product failure resulting inproperty loss, damage
or injury ordeath. Maintenance intervals are critical for normal use, extreme use may require shorter or
additional maintenance intervals.
Manual content does not imply. express or other any warranty, the owner should read the limited
warranty terms included in this booklet.
Before using this product, you should be certain your tow vehicle is suitably rated and equipped to tow the
product safely and legally. The trailer and vehicle pairing must we within the safe “Maximum Towing
Capacity”, “Ball Weight Capacity” and“Gross Combination Mass” as stated by the vehicle manufacturer.
This camper is fitted with electric brakes and a “Breakaway System”. Requirements for breakaway
systems can vary from state to state. Itis mandatory to supply a maintenance charge to the breakaway
battery source while driving. You MUST ensure this capability is fitted toyour vehicle. The maintenance
charge is supplied to thecamper via theAnderson plug onthedrawbar.

Platinum Store Locations
QUEENSLAND
Brisbane
26 Sherwood
Rd Rocklea
Cairns
464 Mulgrave Road, Cairns
(Coverall Cars & Commercials)
Townsville
15 Letland Street
Garbutt
Mackay
8/15 Carl Court
Rural View
(Campers Queensland)
NEW SOUTH WALES
Newcastle
BRS Offroad
Redhead NSW
VICTORIA
COMING SOON
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Perth Showroom
West Oz Campers
2/41 Mulgul Road Malaga DL (22396)
Contact Details
PH NUMBER
1300 378 399

ABOUT YOUR OFFROAD CAMPER TRAILER
Specifications
Specifications apply to:
2019 Model Only
Berth
7 people Queen size main bed with drop down 2nd bed
Trailer Length
4400mm (hitch to tailgate)
GTM
2000kg
Chassis Construction
150mm x 50mm x 4mm (galvanised)
Body Construction Steel body, aluminum top with power coat finish +
Galvanised / Canvas Tent 16oz
Suspension
Fully Independent Trailing Arm Suspension with 4 Shock
Absorbers
Wheels & Tyres 2 x 15” Rims + 1 spare, Goodride Mud Terrain
235/75 R15
Hitch
2000kg Poly Block Offroad Hitch
Brakes
10” Electric Off Road with Hand Brake
Stone Guard
Mesh Stone Guard
Gas Cylinders
2 x 9kg Gas Cylinder Holders
Jerry Can Holder
2 x 20L Jerry Can Holders
Cooktop
4 Burner Stove Cooker
Kitchen Construct
External 304 Grade Stainless Steel
Water Tank
1 x 110L Fresh Water Tank
Water Delivery
12v Electric Pump
Hot Water System
Optional
Shower (Ensuite) Optional
Battery & Power 1 x 100AH AGM Batteries, USB, 12V Outlets, Anderson Plugs
Awning
Canvas with walls and floor
AC Charger (240v)
Optional
Bearings and Seals
Bearings are a consumable item should be removed, inspected and repacked with grease every 5,000km and
replaced every 10,000km as best practice. See maintenance schedule for guidance.
Bearing Number: Inner Bearing 25590
Cone: 25520
Outer Bearing 25590
Cone: 25520
Seal: 55 x 85 x 12
Air Conditioning Optional
Media Stereo CD Dual with Speakers
Mains Power Optional

How to Hitch your coupling
Here is a short guide on how to safely use your coupling to couple and uncouple the
trailer from the towing vehicle.
Full offroad articulation
• Approach angle • Break over angle • Departure angle • Roll angle
Poly-Hitch it’s easy to hitch up and un-hitch on your own in just seconds.

Setting up your Camper
Loading Your Camper
It is important to load your camper correctly to distribute weight evenly and achieve a suitable ball weight load and
prevent loading in a manner that can cause a camper to sway and/or roll excessively left and right. The optimum ball
weight on a camper is between 9 and 11% of the total camper weight.
WARNING: BALLLOADING (DOWNWARD LOAD ON TOW HITCH) MUST NOTEXCEED 350KG OR THE
MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE LOAD BY THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURER OR TOW BAR RATING, WHICH EVER IS
THE LOWEST. Exceeding these limits may result in anaccident causing serious injury ordeath and/or
property damage.
•Always load evenly to both sides of the camper
•Load heavy weight over or as close to over the axle as possible and as low as possible
•Overhead cupboards should only be used for lightweight items such as clothes, personal items, bedding etc.
•Heavy cooking equipment should be stored in lower cupboards.
•Tinned food, bottled goods for cooking etc should be stored in the pantry cupboard.
•Never load in a manner that causes the ball weight to exceed the limit of the tow vehicle.
•Ensure no items can move during travel. Secure all items to prevent damage to the camper.
•Consider water tank levels and how they may affect the balance front and back and the percentage of ball
weight.
•Never store heavy items in overhead cupboards.
Choosing a Spot toSet Up
When choosing a spot to set up your camper, start with a flat area with no overhanging trees. Birds and bats
occupying trees can defecate leaving droppings on your camper that can damage paint and leaves and sap can also
stain the coating. Ensure you are not camping in an area prone to flooding or with bad drainage in the event of rain.
Even the slightest hollow in the ground can put you in a mini lake. In hot weather if possible, set your camper up so
the sun’s arc goes from front to back or back to front with the annex/awning in the general direction the sun is arcing
across. Doing this will keep the bulk of the camper in shade and the inside cooler as it will be shaded by the awning.

Guide on tent setup Chariot S3
Main Tent Opening
1. Locate your tent and pole map that is supplied with your Platinum Camper Trailer
2. Level camper with jockey wheel and winch down all stabilizer leg on camper trailer,
you must level camper before opening. Make sure hand brake is on.
3. Undo the all latches on each side of the camper trailer. Connect front winch cable to
the eyelet of the rear fold out floor. Let enough slack out with winch strap so that
when you push over the rear floor the strap will hold it ready to winch down. After
you have winched the rear floor, make sure the rear floor is sitting flat on the ground.
(NOTE DON’T WALK ON THE REAR FLOOR IF IT IS NOT LEVEL ON THE
GROUND. YOU MAY CAUSE DAMAGE) If the rear is not sitting flat on the ground
you may have to level the trailer further.
4. Connect the assistant winch to the eyelet at the rear of the hard floor, this will assist
you to bring over the front fold. Winch the hard floor over to the of the camper trailer,
all the frame work and canvas of tent will fold out towards the front of the camper
trailer. (REF TO MAIN TENT DIAGRAM)
5. Pull out the tent and framework for the rear fold, zip the rear tent assembly to the
base of the rear fold. Locate the two #5 tent poles at the end of main tent in to the
corners etc (REF TO MAIN TENT DIAGRAM)
6. Unzip main door access the to the access inside
7. Locate number 4 spreader bars and locate them to the inside edge of the main tent
to firm up the main tent setup as necessary
Awning Setup
1. Ref to your tent map and understand which poles are needed for (Awning) setup
2. Layout poles required on the ground in preparation.
3. Layout the awning on the ground if possible along the side of the trailer that you are
attaching on to. Awning should be attached from right to left via a zipper on the main
tent.
4. Do not stand underneath the awning and try to it zip on from underneath, this is to
difficult to do. Stand on a small ladder or chair, hold the awning up to the left hand
side of the main tent and zip it on from the top side, you will find that the zipper will
flow a lot easier to put on. Two people is always best when putting the awning and
poles up
5. As stated earlier you have laid out you poles, again starting from right hand side of
the main tent, insert your first cross bar #7 in to and through the eyelet on the main
tent frame on one end, then insert #9 crossbar #10 pole on the corner of the awning.
6. Insert now #7 crossbar on #11 pole on the middle of the awning
7. Insert now #8 crossbar on #10 pole on the and insert #16 corner of the awning one
at the camper trailer. (REF TO AWNING DIAGRAM)

Awning Walls and Floor
1. You may decide to attach walls and floor to your Awning during this setup. These
room walls attach to the awning roof via zipper.
2. Also there is wall ends supplied, these walls attach to each end of the awning via
velcro stripping to each end of awning one and two.
3. Also supplied is floors for each rooms, these floors attach to the under side of all wall
via velcro stripping at the base of each wall. (REF TO TENT DIAGRAM)
Awning Spreader Bars
1. Spreader Bars are used to give more strength to the awing frame work plus helps
with water not pooling on the awing surface. Locate #4 poles and attach this pole
between the framework down the centre line. Use #4 poles as needed.
Awning Tie Down Ropes and Pegs
1. The awnings are some what self standing, (REF TO TENT PEG BAG SUPPLIED)
you may require to secure awning with further tent ropes and peg to help awning in
high winds etc

How to clean up your camper trailer water
tank?
One of the big advantages of camping with a camper trailer is the ability to carry a lot of water, be it
on jerry cans or on the camper water tank itself.
The last thing you want on your camping trip is to find out tastes and smells on your water, here we
share what works to keep the water tanks in tip top condition and avoid unnecessary surprises with
your water.
Does your water taste or smell like plastic or some other synthetic material?
The first step to ensure your water will be always pristine is to only fill your water tank using a food
grade hose. Garden hoses are the culprit number one for tasty or smelly water cases. You should
be able to pick up a good food grade water hose from $20 onwards on most camping shops.
Keeping the camper trailer tank clean
There are plenty of options when it comes to flushing the water tanks out, with everything from
store-bought products to using household bleach, not to mention the old mixture of bicarbonate of
soda and vinegar.
The Milton baby bottle steriliser is another popular option for some campers, too! For me, I wanted
to make sure the tank was sterilised so I kicked things off by mixing a quarter of a cup of bleach with
a few litres of water in a bucket, then added it to the camper’s water tank when empty before filling it
up with fresh water. About ¼ cup of bleach to roughly 55L of water should do the trick. It’s best to
run the outlet taps for a minute or two so the mixture gets flushed through the lines and then leave it
sitting there for a few hours before flushing the system with fresh water. Then, to get rid of the
bleach’s strong smell, I mixed about half a cup of baking soda with a few litres of water and added it
to the fresh water tank. Once again I flushed it through the taps, but left it there for a few days
before refilling the tank for the final time with fresh drinking water.
If you don’t want to use bleach in your water, another option is to use vinegar and baking soda to
flush the water tank. It’s not as effective as bleach in terms of sterilisation, but it’s a good way to
keep it maintained. Simply add about a cup of baking soda to a few litres of fresh water in a bucket
and pour it into the water tank, which should be only half full at a maximum. This is to allow for the
chemical reaction when you add the vinegar in! It’ll foam up and expand like that old rocket project
back at school!
So make sure you leave the taps and the filler tube open for air to escape too. Tow the camper over
a few bumps and flush it out with fresh water when you get home and you’re all done.
WARNING
Oh, and don’t get any funny ideas about combining the methods; it’s definitely not a good idea to
mix vinegar with bleach! Mixing chlorine bleach and vinegar will create chlorine gas, which is
extremely toxic!

Levelling Your camper
The stabiliser legs on your camper are not designed for supporting the full weight of the trailer, they are there to
stabilise it once it is level. Using your stabilisers as a lifting mechanism will void your warranty as will extending them
with a “rattle gun” or “impact wrench”. Levelling front to back can be done by raising and lowering the jockey wheel
prior to adjusting the ramps as illustrated below. Once levelled the legs can be lowered to keep the trailer stable. On
soft ground you may want to use timber sole boards under the stabiliser feet. Getting the trailer level from left to right s

Kitchen
Push down the 2 blue latch on each slide mechanism and pull kitchen out. Do the same when putting kitchen away
Preparing for Bad Weather
During inclement weather the following should be done:
•Close all roof vents and hatches to prevent water entering.
•Protect the awning from high winds by retracting or securing with guy ropes and pegs.
•Ensure your camper is not parked in ground that will become boggy and prevent exiting the camp area
•Close all external doors and hatches to prevent water ingress and wind damage

Packing Down Your Camper
When packing down your camper ensure the following:
•All gas and electric appliances are turned off
•Gas isturned off at the gas bottle
•All loose items are secured and unable to move and damage themselves or the camper
•All cabinet doors are secured and locked along with alldrawers closed
•Site power lead isremoved and stowed
•Doorstep is raised and secured
•All roof hatches lowered and secure
•All windows closed and locked
•Main door isclosed and locked
•All dustcovers in place and secure
Storage & Care
Long Term Storage
To maximize the life of your camper you should consider additional protection from the elements. UVlight and moisture
can have an adverse effect on materials when left unprotected outside. This section outlines some of the things you
can do as an owner to protect your investment.
Interior
Moisture in the smallest amounts can cause mould. High humidity and cooling temperatures can create condensation,
additionally condensation can form under mattresses due to temperature differences between warm bodies on top and
the bed base being cold from outside temperatures. Asa precaution you can do the following:
•Check under mattress for moisture before packing up. If moisture is found allow to thoroughly dry before closing your
camper.
•Store 1 or 2 moisture absorbing packs/dehumidifier packs in the camper to draw away any residual water vapour.
•If packing up with damp or humid conditions, open and dry out the camper at the first opportunity when returning
home. Dry all canvas thoroughly.
Mould is very difficult to clean once a porous surface
is affected. There are several ways you can prevent
the occurrence of mould on your camper.
Never leave your camper packed away wet. Ifyou
must leave a campsite with wet canvas or a damn
interior, be sure to open and dry out your tent
thoroughly at the very first opportunity when you get
home. Mould can develop in just a couple of days so
don’t take the risk.
When packing up dry, it is important to check under the mattress that there is no build-up of condensation overnight.
Body heat on a mattress can create enough temperature difference with the exterior for moisture to form under it. Ifleft
unchecked this can cause mould when your camper is stored.
Exterior
Ensure all seals on the camper have proper compression at 30-50%, are free of dirt and have nothing protruding past
the seals. UVlight and the elements can over time cause seals and fittings to perish and become brittle. The use of a
camper cover or tarpaulin will extend the life of components and keep your investment looking better for longer.
Batteries
When storing your camper,ensure all power isturned off to ensure batteries aren’t drained. Batteries should be
maintenance charged at least monthly when stored. Allowing batteries to drain below 12.05 volts may permanently
damage them.
Protecting from Mould

Securing Your Camper
When parked and unhitched you should always use suitable wheel chocks to ensure the trailer can’t move in the event
of a handbrake failure. For security a wheel clamp or and hitch lock are highly recommended.
Torque Settings
Wheel Nuts
Wheel nuts should be tightened to correct torque using a torque wrench. Never trust a “rattle gun” as these may over
or under tighten. A quality torque wrench will ensure nuts are tightened correctly. It’s important to remember to check
your wheel nuts at 50km, 500km and 1000km and periodically thereafter. The correct torque setting of 125Nm for
12mm studs, 140nm for 14mm studs and alloy wheels and 200nm for 14mm studs with steel rims. Refer to the plate
on your drawbar.
Hitch
The high tensile bolts securing your hitch should be tightened to 76Nm. These should be checked at 5000km intervals
or 2500km in harsh off-road conditions.

Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
The pivot bolts are a high tensile steel. The service interval for these bolts is 5000km under normal use and 2500km
for harsh off-road conditions. During travel they should be inspected daily to ensure they have not rotated or become
damaged. Correct torque is 190Nm
Brakes and Handbrake - Electric
Your trailer is fitted with electric brakes that require a brake controller that can be operated from the driver’s seat or
has a optional ELECBRAKES Controller mounted on the camper trailer.
1. Manual adjusted to provide the correct braking capability for varying road, off-road and load conditions.
2. They can be modulated to provide variable braking force, thus easing the brake load on the towing vehicle.
3. There is very little lag time between the moment the tow vehicle’s brakes are actuated and the moment the
trailer brakes are actuated.
4. They can provide some braking independent of the tow vehicle in the event of an emergency.
Operation
When electrical current is fed into the system by the controller, it activates the electromagnets in the brakes. These
electromagnets are energized and are attracted to the rotating surface of the drums which moves the actuating levers
in the direction that the drums are turning thus applying pressure from the brake linings to the drum surface
Trailer Plug Wiring
The following diagrams outline the correct wiring for 7 pin plug
Hand Brake
Parking brakes are mechanically operated by cable means. The cable attachment occurs outside of the brake backing
plate. Cable force applied to the parking lever creates a torque through the pivot pin and cam assembly. Torque
transferred to the parking cam results in a spreading force between the primary and secondary shoes. The shoes in
turn, move towards the drum until contact is made. Friction generated between the drum and lining contact surface
results in parking brake capability.
Use the cable adjuster to give sufficient tension to be able to set the handbrake lever on the last two notches of the
coupling or handbrake is 1/3 raised when unladen. This needs to be checked again when the trailer or camper is
loaded. If the cable is too tight, the brakes will be applied as the axle moves backward under spring deflection.

Adjuster
To adjust the handbrake cable tension release locknuts A, B and C in the diagram Handbrake Adjuster 1 below. To
tighten the handbrake cable turn the adjuster wheel D in a clockwise direction. Once adjusted retighten lock nuts and
test. Always ensure that wheels turn freely when handbrake is off. Overtightened cables can cause brakes to drag and
damage the brake linings.
Correct Use of Your Electric Brakes
Your trailer brakes are designed to work in synchronisation with your tow vehicle brakes. Never use your tow vehicle
or trailer brakes alone to stop the combined load. Your trailer and tow vehicle will seldom have the correct amperage
flow to the brake magnets to give you comfortable, safe braking unless you make proper brake system adjustments.
Changing trailer load and driving conditions, as well as uneven alternator and battery output, can mean unstable
current flow to your brake magnets. It is therefore imperative that you maintain and adjust your brakes as set forth in
the controller manual, use a properly modulated brake controller and perform the synchronisation/adjustment
procedure recommended by the brake controller supplier.
Important Safety Notice
Proven and in some cases approved service methods and correct repair procedures are
essential for the safe, reliable operation of the brakes, suspension and axles as well as the
personal safety of the individual doing the work. This manual intends to provide general
directions for performing service and repair work with tested, effective techniques. By
following these guidelines, it will help assure
reliability. The numerous variations in procedures, techniques, tools and parts for servicing
axles, as well as in the skill of the individual doing the work will determine outcomes. This
manual cannot possibly anticipate all such variations nor provide advice or cautions as to each. Accordingly, anyone
who departs from the instructions provided in this manual must first establish that they neither compromise their
personal safety nor the vehicle integrity by their choice of methods, tool’s or parts.
*If at all in doubt please refer all repairs and maintenance to a suitably qualified or experienced mechanical repairer.
*Market Direct Campers accepts no liability for personal injury, loss or damage resulting from incorrect applications,
methods and failure to perform maintenance safely and correctly.

Brake Adjustment
Brakes should be adjusted (1) after the first 300 km’s of operation when the brake shoes and drums have “seated,” (2)
at 5000 km’s intervals, (3) or as use and performance requires. The brakes should be adjusted in the following
manner:
Never crawl under your trailer unless it is resting on properly placed jack stands. Do not
place supports on any part of the suspension system and use the designated jack point or
under the spring base plate to jack trailer.
Brake Cleaning and Inspection
Your trailer brakes must be inspected and serviced at 5000km or more often as required by use and performance.
Magnets and shoes must be changed when they become worn or scored to avoid inefficient vehicle braking.
Brake Lubrication
This should only be done by qualified persons.
Caution
Do not get grease or oil on the brake linings, drums or magnets.
Magnets
Your electric brakes are equipped with high quality electromagnets that are designed to provide the proper input force
and friction characteristics. Your magnets should be inspected and replaced if worn unevenly or abnormally.
Even if wear is normal as indicated by your straightedge, the magnets should be replaced if any part of the magnet coil
has become visible through the friction material facing of the magnet. It is also recommended that the drum armature
surface be refaced when replacing magnets.
Magnets should also be replaced in pairs - both sides of the axle. Always use genuine Platinum Campers OEM parts.

Shoes and Linings
A simple visual inspection of your brake linings will tell if they are useable.
Replacement is necessary if the lining is worn (to within 1.5mm or less), contaminated with grease or oil or abnormally
scored or gouged. It is important to replace both shoes on each brake and both brakes of the same axle. This is
necessary to retain the “balance” of your brakes. Be sure to replace your shoes only with genuine Platinum Campers
parts available from our outlets.
Corrosion Prevention
It’s important to take steps to prevent corrosion of parts on your trailer to extend the service life. Many fittings are high
tensile and therefor zinc plated. Fittings such as this can benefit from additional protection. Some helpful products to
prevent corrosion are “Lanotec”, “WD40”, “Inox” and similar products. These can be spray applied and do a very good
job of protecting metal surfaces, particularly in corrosive and aggressive environments near the ocean and inland
waterways.
Often, we take our campers and caravans to salt water environments. Driving through salt water is never
recommended as the residual chloride ions accelerate corrosion greatly. If you are camping near or driving through
these kinds of environments, we highly recommend that your trailer be thoroughly cleaned after use. Flushing the
chassis and washing and rinsing your trailer is important.
Wheels and Tyres
Highway
Your camper is fitted with 15” wheels and 235/75 R15 AT Tyres. The tyres are a “Light Truck” tyre with a AT tread and
a maximum load rating on single axle of 1000g at 70psi.
Recommended highway pressure at tare weight of the camper is 36-40psi
Off Road
Off road driving requires lower tyre pressures and lower speeds. When driving on rough and corrugated road, a
reduction of speed and controlled deflation of tyres is required to protect the camper and its suspension from damage.
In extreme circumstances tyre pressures may be reduced significantly. When lowering from highway pressure, a rule
of thumb is to reduce your speed by the same percentage as the lowering of tyre pressure.
Because off road conditions can vary greatly, you must lower your pressures and reduce speed until vibration and
shock through the suspension is at a moderate level to suit the conditions you are experiencing, and the loaded weight
of your camper.
WARNING: When returning to the highway or when increasing speed, you must reinflate the tyres to correct highway
pressures. Failure to reinflate can cause severe handling problems resulting in injury or death.

The jacking point behind the wheels is suitable for both bottle jack and
hi-lift jack operation. When using a hi-lift jack USE A BLOCK OF
WOOD ON THE MAIN FRAME OF THE TRAILER, DO NOT LIFT
CAMPER TRAILER ON THE FRAME ATTACHED TO THE WALL
Care must be taken to secure the camper from rolling or slipping.
Never place any part of your body beneath the camper when
suspended by any kind of jack. Ensure the body of the camper is
protected from damage by the jack.
The jacking point on the trailing arm. When using this point
ensure the jack is on a solid base and the camper cannot
move.
Jacking Your Camper

Electrical Systems
Chargers & Inverters
For detailed information on the appliances installed in your camper please refer to the manuals included in your
camper handover.
Caution
Electrical devices can be dangerous. Under nocircumstances should repairs and modifications be
attempted by unqualified oruntrained persons. Platinum Camper and Offroad Carvans accepts no liability
forany personal injury, damages orloss asaresult of unqualified oruntrained persons repairing oraltering
the electrical systems onthis product. If in doubt call your local Platinum Camper and Offroad Carvans
outlet or phone: [phone]
Battery Care
Your camper is fitted with 100Ah AGM Batteries. Storage type batteries require periodical maintenance to perform at
their peak and extend their service life. The following is an outline on how to gain the best performance and lifecycle
from the battery fitted in your camper:
•Always use a quality charger that caters to the voltage requirements of an AGM battery. Absorption charging
is from 14.6v to 14.8v, float charging is from 13.2v to 13.8v.
•Never leave your battery stored at low volts. Before storing your camper ensure that battery/s is fully charged
and all power is disconnected/switched off.
•When possible leave the battery connected to a smart charger that will cycle and maintain the battery during
storage. If this isn’t possible check and charge at regular intervals to prevent excessive discharge.
•Never use unregulated solar power direct to your batteries.
•When in use try to keep your battery at or as close to maximum capacity as possible.
•Allowing your battery voltage to drop below 12.5v can permanently damage its performance and reduce its
service life.