Polini X1r User manual

Page 1

I. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS page

1. Intended use & cautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

2. Initial assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

3. Pre-ride checks & initial startup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

4. Basic operation & control functions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

engine starting & stopping, engine break-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

5. Control adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

brake lever, brake pedal, throttle, bar & lever positioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

II. GENERAL INFORMATION & SPECIFICATIONS

1. Description - diagram of motorcycle components & controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2. Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

3. Machine ID & date of manufacture information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

4. Cable & hose routing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

5. Fuel & oil requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

6. Definition of units & conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

7. Torque values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

III. MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENTS, SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. Notes & warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

2. Maintenance & lubrication schedule chart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

3. Maintenance preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

4. Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

5. Air cleaner service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

6. Transmission oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

7. Seat removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

8. Fuel tank & gas filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

9. Front & rear brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

10. Expansion pipe & muffler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

11. Control cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

12. Plastic care & cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

13. Footpegs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

14. Hoses-vent, fuel, coolant & overflow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

15. Reed valve & intake boot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

16.1 Engine top end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

inspection & repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

16.2 Crankcase & transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

waterpump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

17. Clutch & kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

3 shoe clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

2 shoe clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

18. Carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

jetting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

adjustments, disassembly & cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

19. Suspension & chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

wheels & spokes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

front suspension, adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Page 2

fork service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

rear suspension, adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

shock & swingarm removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

steering bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

grip replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

20. Electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

spark plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

plug reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

flywheel & stator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

coil & ignition assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

21. Final drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

chain adjustment and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Sprockets & gearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

chain roller & wear pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

22. Cleaning & storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

23. Pre-, post- & between race maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

24. Special tools, supplies & chemicals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

IV. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

V. PARTS & ACCESSORIES

1. Recommended spares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

2. Tips & tricks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

VI. CONTACT INFO & RESOURCES

1. Action Racing address, phone & fax numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

2. www info, support forum, manufacturers links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

VII. INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

I. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Intended use

Thank you for purchasing your Polini motorcycle. With proper care and maintenance, your Polini will last for many years and pro-

vide unparalleled performance. ALWAYS wear a helmet and other safety gear, respect the environment & local laws, and ride within

your abilities. Do not carry passengers or operate motorcycle on any roadway. This motorcycle is intended for off-road competition

use only. Learn proper use and operation of your motorcycle before riding. Make note of required service and adjustments as poor

maintenance & service can lead to unsafe bike conditions, damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. Always check motorcy-

cle for damage before riding and call your local dealer or Action Racing at (239) 566-9666 if you have any questions or problems.

1. Before use, check for proper adjustments and any broken or worn parts, repair or adjust before riding.

2. Do not ride beyond your abilities, use caution when encountering new obstacles or unfamiliar terrain.

3. Keep both hands on handlebars and and both feet on footpegs.

4. Never leave motorcycle running unattended to prevent theft or injury to others, or allow it to idle for more than a few minutes to

prevent overheating of motorcycle.

5. Wear proper riding gear, including: Snell or DOT approved helmet, goggles, gloves, boots, riding pants, knee/shin guards, elbow

guards, kidney belt, and chest/back protector. Note: kidney belts and chest protectors are strongly recommended for all children in

addition to other protective gear, and are required by most racing organizations.

6. Be very careful to keep hands, feet, hair and loose clothing away from chain, sprockets and wheels to prevent injury.

7. Always apply brakes when starting motorcycle to prevent unexpected movement. The motorcycle is always in gear and will

move any time the throttle is applied.

8. See warnings and precautions in section III-1 before working on motorcycle.

The Polini X1 motorcycles are recommended for children ages 4-6, assuming they have the size, strength, reflexes and maturity to

operate a competition motorcycle. Make sure your child can confidently ride a bicycle and understand and respond to your instruc-

tion before allowing them to operate a motorcycle. The X3 model is intended for children ages 7-9, and the X5 model is for children

9 years old and older.

The use of genuine Polini replacement parts is strongly recommended to insure proper fit and function of your motorcycle. Due to

their intended use, neither Polini nor Action North America offer or imply any warrantee whatsoever on any motorcycle or part.

2. Initial assembly

If your Polini motorcycle was shipped to you in a box, you

will have to partially assemble your Polini, make several

adjustments, and add oil and coolant. Take the time to read

through this manual and familiarize yourself with the bike, its

operation and proper maintenance procedures.

In general, it is a good idea to lightly grease any fittings

that screw into aluminum using wheel bearing grease or anti-

seize compound. Take care not the get any grease on the

brake rotors or brake pads. References to the right and left

side of the motorcycle are the rider’s right and left as seated

on the motorcycle.

Assembly of motorcycle - Carefully open the top of box and

remove packing material. When bike is free to move, lift out

of box holding fork bridge and top of rear rim. Do not lift by

rear fender! Locate and remove hardware bag, decal enve-

lope, handlebar, front wheel, extra heavy rate spring, front

number plate, front fender and bar pad with plastic ties.

Check all parts for damage, if any damage is found take pho-

tos of parts and of box damage and contact the shipper right

away so they can file a claim for damage with the carrier.

Open parts bag, and compare contents to photo. There should

be 2 footpegs with springs, bolts, & nuts, two bar clamps

with 4 allen bolts, 4 fender screws and washers, 1 brake cable

guide, 1 kill switch clamp assembly, 1 front number plate

screw with spacer, and 1 front axle pinch bolt. See photo I-2.

(Only works models come with optional graphics package) Contents of shipping box

optional heavier

rear spring

hardware

package

Page 3

Page 4

Begin by cutting the plastic zip tie straps securing the front and rear

calipers to their mounting brackets.

Install front fender using 4 phillips head screws M6x16 and 4 washers

M6x18x1.

Install the front wheel next. Spread brake pads enough to accept rotor,

then align front wheel with axle holes in forks. Insert front axle from

right side of bike, through front wheel and into the left fork. Using a 5⁄16”

or 8mm allen wrench, turn the axle until it is fully threaded into the left

fork, then torque to 50 Nm. Next compress the forks several times to

properly align the forks on axle. Install and tighten axle pinch bolt using a

6mm allen wrench to 25 Nm.

Install handlebar using 2 U-shaped bar clamps with 4 M8x30 socket

head bolts using 6mm allen wrench. Make sure gaps are even from front

to rear of bar clamps. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm. Install bar clamp pad using

2 zip ties provided. Install kill switch on left side of handlebar near grip

pointing up using 2 piece clamp assembly in hardware package.

Route cables as outlined in section II-4. (See page 8)

Adjust front brake lever (bar mounted rear brake lever also, if so

equipped) using adjuster on lever so that free play is from 4 to 5mm,

measured at gap between lever and and cable holder - See photo III-2.

Check wheels for free rotation and proper braking when levers are

applied.

Remove 2 screws from top of throttle housing and remove cover.

Install end of cable into top hole in throttle tube. Install throttle cover

making sure cable is in groove. Twist throttle repeatedly to check for any

binding or failure to return to rest position when released. Fix sticking or

sluggish throttles. Do not lube throttle grip assembly but remove and

clean as needed. Use a small piece of duct tape to secure cable to adjuster

to prevent setting from changing or cable from pulling out. Push cable

boot fully onto throttle housing, using a small zip tie on the end of the boot will help prevent dirt from entering. These tips also

apply to the carburetor end of the cable.

Install front number plate by inserting 3 fingers into holes in front fender, then insert phillips M5x30 screw using metric spacer

5.5 x 12 x 20. Spread the grey plastic front brake cable guide over cable, push into hole in front number plate.

Install footpegs using SCS M8x40, a M8 lock nut, and footpeg spring. See photo I-3. If necessary, bend straight end of spring

down with a pair of pliers to tension footpegs more. To make spring easier to install, use a pair of pliers or a vise to compress spring,

then hold in position using a small zip-tie. Install spring and then cut zip-tie to release.

Inflate tires to 18 psi.

Fill radiator with approximately 27oz. (with dual radiators) of

Engine Ice®antifreeze (ready to use). See section III-4. Fill trans-

mission through vent hole or level checking screw hole with 300

cc (10 oz.) Maxima brand MTL 75 gear lube for best results.

Remove checking screw and fill slowly in case some oil is already

in transmission. Do not overfill. See procedure in section III-6.

Remove rubber cap from crankcase vent fitting and push vent

tube onto fitting. (See photo I-4)

If kickstarter hits expansion pipe when folding in, remove pinch

bolt using a 5mm allen wrench and remove kickstarter. Insert

screwdriver blade into slot to loosen kickstarter on shaft if neces-

sary. Reposition kickstarter rearward 2-3 splines and re-install.

Torque pinch bolt to 10 Nm.

Apply the decals last (if necessary). Remove the fuel tank with

shrouds attached before applying the decals to them. Try to apply

the decals in a warm, clean, well lit area and at least 24 hours

before the bike is to be ridden.

It is very important to properly prepare your bike’s plastic for

application of pressure sensitive decals. The plastic should be

cleaned with conventional soap and water, and any scratched areas

should be lightly sanded to make them smooth. The smoother the

surface the better the adhesion. Before you peel back the backing

on the decal, fit it in place and line it up properly. Tape it in position

All nuts, bolts and small parts are in a bag inside box.

Footpeg installation - left side shown.

kill switch

clamp

front number

plate screw &

spacer

front axle

pinch bolt

front brake

cable clamp

front fender

nuts & washers

front

Page 5

with masking tape, and notice where any curves and creas-

es might occur. The curves and areas where the plastic

tapers in 2 directions will be the most difficult areas to

apply. When you’ve determined the best fit, tape one edge

of the decal securely in place, and remove the tape from

the opposite edge. Lift the decal up and spray a light mist

of water from a squirt bottle onto the entire plastic panel.

This will allow you to dampen the adhesive so it won’t

stick as well during the application of the decal and allow

repositioning if necessary without losing the the final bond.

Carefully align the decal and lay it on the plastic. If the

graphic is not fitting the panel correctly, you can peel it

back up and start over. Start pressing down near the center

of the graphic to ‘work’ the water and any air away from

the center and toward the edges of the decal. Pay extra

attention to creases and irregular areas where the graphic

needs to conform to the plastic in unusual ways. Take your

time and work from the middle of the decal to the edges

pushing out any water and air as you go. The water will

weep out the side of the decal as you reach the edges.

If you’re having trouble with an irregular area, use a blow dryer or heat gun to lightly warm up the decal in order to make it con-

form. The heat will soften the material, so that you can stretch or compress it as needed to make it fit. Use just enough heat to make

the material pliable without melting it.

3. Pre-ride checks

Initial startup - When motorcycle is at operating temperature, adjust idle speed to the lowest speed at which the motorcycle will run

smoothly by using idle adjustment screw. See photo II-6. Then adjust fuel metering screw. Roll on the throttle rapidly. If the engine

bogs or hesitates, try rotating screw clockwise (leaner) in 1⁄4turn increments until hesitation ceases. If the engine surges or misfires,

rotate screw counterclockwise (richer) in 1⁄4turn increments until bike accelerate smoothly. If the fuel metering screw has to be less

than 11⁄2for proper running, consider using a leaner pilot jet. If fuel metering screw is more than 21⁄2-3 turns out, install a leaner pilot

jet. The fuel metering screw is normally set from 11⁄2to 21⁄2turns out from fully seated. Never tighten fuel metering screw, just gently

turn in until it stops, then back out counting the turns to the desired setting. The fuel metering screw can cause overall jetting to be

too rich if it is turned out too far. Note that the fuel metering screw only affects the initial throttle response in conjunction with the

pilot jet until the needle jet takes over at 1⁄4throttle and above.

Regular pre-ride checklist - Check chain tension and make sure chain is well lubricated and not worn. Check tire pressure, spokes,

all nuts & bolts, steering stem for binding or play, swingarm bolt, engine mounting bolts, oil & coolant levels and condition, lever

and throttle adjustment, & air cleaner. Look for broken or worn parts, leaking fluids, etc. Check brake calipers for proper freeplay

and accumulations of dirt. Clean and adjust as needed to provide proper function.

4. Basic operation & control functions

Engine startup - Make sure motorcycle has premix fuel, transmission oil and coolant. Make sure air cleaner is installed and proper-

ly oiled. Note that arrow on air cleaner and filter cover must point to front of motorcycle.

Turn fuel valve to ON position (vertical position). See photo II-3.

If engine is cold, lift the choke knob on carburetor and rotate about 1⁄8turn so it stays in the up position. See photo II-4.

Squeeze brake lever to prevent sudden movement upon starting.

Motorcycle is always in gear and may move suddenly when started or whenever throttle is applied.

Push kickstarter down until slack is taken up, then kick briskly with throttle closed. If necessary, open throttle slightly and hold

while kicking. Motor should start readily. If adult is starting bike, use restraint not to damage kickstarter gears with excessive

force! If bike will not start, find and fix problems rather than just kicking harder! As engine warms, turn choke knob to return

it to the closed position and apply throttle slightly until bike idles without stalling.

To stop motor, depress kill switch until motor stops. If motorcycle will not start and there is a strong smell of fuel, the engine is

flooded. Turn off choke, open throttle fully and hold open, and kick motor approximately 10 times to clear engine of excess fuel.

Release throttle and try starting again. If engine still won’t start, remove sparkplug and inspect. If plug is wet with fuel, replace plug.

If plug seems to be dry, check fuel valve position and carburetor float and needle valve assembly for proper function.

Remove rubber cap, install vent tube onto vent fitting.

remove &

discard cap

Page 6

Break in - The initial startup and running of the engine is crucial for long life and full power potential. Always warm engine for a

few minutes before riding motorcycle. Do not idle for extended periods - note that water pump does not circulate when rear wheel is

not turning. When starting for the first time, allow to warm for 1-2 minutes, and then ride motorcycle carefully for about 10-15 min-

utes. Avoid steep hills, mud, sand or other heavy loads on motor. Use partial throttle only, and vary speed when riding, do not main-

tain constant speed while breaking in motor. Allow motor to cool thoroughly. Repeat as above, gradually increasing throttle for

another 15 minutes. Allow to cool. Break in is now mostly complete. Change transmission oil at end of day. Check all fasteners for

loosening, check chain tension and brake lever(s) adjustments.

Control Operation - Twist right throttle grip to engage clutch and accelerate. Apply enough gas to fully engage clutch, do not rapid-

ly engage/disengage clutch or premature wear will result. To slow or stop, release throttle and apply front and rear brakes evenly.

Apply brakes while traveling in a straight line until proficient in advanced braking techniques. Note that the front brake is applied

with the right hand lever and the rear brake is applied with the right foot lever (or left hand lever, if so equipped).

5. Control adjustment

Brake Adjustment - To adjust brake lever, (front brake and handlebar mounted rear brake), loosen knurled lock nut, and adjust

threaded adjuster to obtain proper freeplay of 4-5mm as shown in photo III-2. If unable to obtain correct adjustment at brake lever,

adjust play at caliper (see section III-9). Recheck freeplay at lever and make any final adjustments.

Brake pedal -The rear brake pedal is adjusted at the rear caliper. Check the movement of the caliper arm, it should be 5-10mm

measured at the tip of the arm. Adjust caliper as needed using the same procedure as for the front brake caliper (see section III-9). If

pedal has too much or not enough free play after adjusting caliper, loosen cable clamp on caliper arm and adjust cable position to

obtain desired pedal free play. The tip of the brake lever should move between 1⁄4˝ to 3⁄8˝ before tire locks.

Throttle adjustment - With engine off, check throttle grip to make sure there is a small amount of freeplay (1⁄8˝ max). Check again

while turned all the way to the right and all the way to the left. Make sure there is some slack in the throttle cable between where it

is tied to the chassis and where it connects to the carburetor. Start engine and turn bars full left and right and make sure idle does not

change. Adjust freeplay by pulling boot off throttle housing, then loosen locknut and turn adjuster screw into housing for more

freeplay, turn screw out of housing for less freeplay. Tighten locknut and push boot back onto throttle housing.

Bar angle - The angle of the bars can be adjusted to fit different riders. Taller riders might want to rotate bars slightly forward, while

shorter riders can rotate bars backwards to make them easier to reach. Make only small adjustments to bar angle so that the grip

angles do not become excessive.

Lever angle - The front brake lever (and rear if so equipped) can be adjusted so they are horizontal or angled downward. Aggressive

riders who spend most of their time standing will want the levers angled somewhat downward for a more natural grip while stand-

ing. Beginning riders will generally prefer a nearly horizontal lever position, especially if they have small hands.

II. GENERAL INFORMATION & SPECIFICATIONS

1. Description - diagram of motorcycle components & controls

rear brake

kickstarter

throttle

fuel cap front brake

kill switch

throttle &

front brake

lever cable

clamp

Page 7

2. Specifications

Length - X1: 50˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Width - X1: 241⁄4˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Height - X1: 323⁄4˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Wheelbase - X1: 343⁄8˝ - 355⁄16˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Seat height - X1: 24˝ X3: 28˝ X5: 32˝

Footpeg height - X1: 93⁄4˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Ground clearance - X1: 8˝ X3: XX X5: XX

Wet weight (no fuel) - X1: 97lb. X3: XX X5: XX

Fuel capacity, type - 1 gallon - 93 octane pump gas (must be mixed with premix oil)

Oil premix ratio - 40:1 mixture of fuel and Maxima K2 premix oil

Chain - Regina 415, 91 links (X1) X3: XX X5: XX

Steering head angle - 20˚

Forks - conventional hydraulic, 51⁄2˝ travel, X1: 160cc 10wt fork oil, X3 & X5: 180cc 10wt fork oil

Shock, gas charged mono-shock, adjustable preload, compression & rebound dampening -

shock springs specs, free length, XX kg/cm, Optional shock spring specs, free length, XX kg/cm,

51⁄2˝ suspension travel ??

Engine type - single cylinder, 50cc case reed 2-stroke motor, liquid cooled

Bore & stroke - 40.2mm x 39.3mm

Compression ratio 14.5:1

Redline - 13,700 rpm

Transmission oil capacity - 10 oz. (300cc)

Coolant capacity - approx. 27oz. Engine Ice®antifreeze (dual radiator models)

Carburetor model - X1: Dell’Orto PHBG19, 19mm (X1 models sleeved to 14mm for AMA compliance) X3: 21mm, sleeved to

19mm X5: XX

jet sizes - X1: main: 88, needle: W3 @2nd clip from top, needle jet: 262, pilot jet: 55, choke jet: 60, fuel metering screw: 21⁄2turns

from bottomed. X3: XX X5: XX

Float level - ???!!!

Clutch - Works: automatic centrifugal 3 shoe type, engagement rpm adjustable from 5000 to 7000 rpm Std: automatic 2 shoe clutch,

adjustable

Gear ratio - 12T front, 42T rear - Optional 13-14T front and 36-48T rear

Electrical system - Works: Selettra CDI P3356

Spark plug - NGK R5671A-11 or B9EV, gap .024”

Timing specification - 1.6mm BTDC

Wheels - 10” front & rear, straight pull spokes

Tires - Pirelli MT32A 2.50 x 10 @18psi

Brakes - Disc brakes front and rear with mechanical calipers, front brake hand lever, rear brake foot lever (works) or rear hand lever

(std)

Color - Blue & white

Fuel valve - Off position

choke knob

idle screw

fuel metering

screw

Idle, fuel metering screw - X1

Choke knob - X1

lift & 1⁄8 turn to engage choke

Idle, fuel metering screw

X3 & X5

idle

screw

fuel

metering

screw

choke

OFF

Page 8

3. Chassis number, production year

4. Cable & hose routing

Route cables, hoses and wires as per photos II.9 and II.10. Be sure seal cable ends with

tape and leave some slack in throttle cable near carburetor. Use a small zip-tie to secure cable

boots and seal out dirt and water. Make sure to always replace vent hose onto vent fitting to

prevent contamination of transmission. Check and clean carburetor vent hoses as needed to

keep carburetor working properly. Clogged vent hoses can cause the carburetor to malfunc-

tion and can result in engine damage.

5. Fuel & oil requirements

Fuel requirements - Hi-test pump gasoline is recommended for your motorcycle with a min-

imum octane of 92-94. This octane rating is necessary to prevent possible detonation (ping-

ing) and damage to piston from low octane fuel. If “pinging” or “knocking” occurs, check ignition timing, jetting, plug color, and

piston dome for carbon deposits. An air leak can also cause these symptoms. The fuel must be mixed with the proper type and

amount of oil or severe engine damage will result.

Note: Race fuel is not required unless the compression of the motor has been increased. Race fuel burns slower and will decrease the

acceleration of the motorcycle. Even with increased compression, a 50/50 mixture of race gas and pump gas should be sufficient to

prevent detonation.

Oil requirements - The fuel must be mixed with the proper type and amount of oil prior to fueling the motorcycle. The oil is

required to lubricate the crankshaft bearings, rod bearings, piston, rings and cylinder walls. The transmission oil only lubricates the

clutch and transmission, it does not lubricate the engine components in a 2 cycle engine. The oil must be specifically recommended

for premix use in motorcycles or the oil may not provide enough lubrication, cause piston rings to stick, cause heavy deposits in

engine and foul spark plugs, or separate from the gasoline. The use of Maxima brand K2 premix oil is strongly recommended. If this

product can not be obtained, use a synthetic or semi-synthetic 2-stroke premix oil specifically for motorcycle use.

The oil must be mixed with the fuel at a ratio of 40:1 (40 parts fuel to 1 part oil) Graduated containers can be purchased which

show the proper amount of oil for various quantities of fuel for any common ratio. One common type is called the “Ratio Rite™,”

which can be purchased at most motorcycle stores. Otherwise, to obtain a 40:1 ratio, use 3.2 fluid ounces of oil per 1 gallon of fuel.

(6.4 ounces for 2 gallons, 8 ounces for 21⁄2gallons, 16 ounces for 5 gallons, etc.) If measuring in liters, use 25cc oil per litre of fuel.

To mix oil with fuel, fill mixing container with 1⁄2the desired amount of fuel. Add the proper amount of oil (for the total amount of

fuel) to the fuel in the container. Tightly cap and secure vent on container, then vigorously swirl and slosh fuel to mix oil. Add other

half of fuel and continue to mix thoroughly. Mix at least 1-2 minutes. Release fuel pressure using vent before opening container, be

cautious of flammable fumes. Never add oil to gas tank of motorcycle! Always mix fuel and oil thoroughly in a separate container

before fueling motorcycle, otherwise the oil will clog the fuel filter and jets in the carburetor and cause severe starting and running

problems. Do not store gasoline any longer than necessary, as it loses its potency over time. An approved metal container is best for

storage. Do not store fuel mixed with oil. Mix only enough fuel and oil to be used in a short time. Take great care that water or dirt

does not contaminate fuel or gas tank.

Model & year Chassis number

Cable, hose & wiring routing

.10

leave some

slack in throttle

cable

Page 9

6. Definition of units/conversions

1˝ = 25.4mm

1mm = .0394˝

1cm = 10mm

1cc = 1 mL = .0338 oz. (fluid)

1 oz. (fluid) = 29.565 mL

1 oz. (weight) = 28.35 grams

1 gram = .035 oz. (weight)

1 liter = 1.057 quarts = 2.114 pints = 4.228 cups

1Nm = .102 m/kg

1m/kg = 9.804 Nm

1 lb. = 2.2 kg

1 ft/lb = 1.357 Nm = .1383 m/kg

1 barrel (beer) = 31 gallons

1 kilometer = .621 miles

To covert degrees Fahrenheit to Celsius: subtract 32 and divide by 1.8

To convert degrees Celsius to Fahrenheit: multiply by 1.8 and add 32.

For any other conceivable conversions you might need, consult www.onlineconversion.com

7. Torque values

Alternator nut ..............................42 ft/lbs (57Nm)

Brake rotor bolts..........................

Case bolts ....................................7 ft/lbs (10 Nm)

Clutch nut ....................................42 ft/lbs (57Nm)

Cylinder nuts................................10 ft/lbs (13.6 Nm)

Engine mount bolt (front)............42 ft/lbs (57Nm)

fork pinch bolts............................11 ft/lbs (15 Nm)

Front axle ....................................37 ft/lbs (50 Nm)

Front axle pinch bolt....................18 ft.lbs (25 Nm)

Fork cap ........................................4 ft/lbs (5 Nm)

Fork slider retaining bolt ............20 ft/lbs (27.1Nm)

Fuel tank screw............................snug by hand only

Handlebar clamps ........................18 ft.lbs (25 Nm)

Lower shock nut ..........................33 ft/lbs (45 Nm)

Rear axle nut................................37 ft/lbs (50 Nm)

seat bolt........................................snug by hand only

Spark plug....................................20 ft/lbs (27.1Nm)

Sprocket bolts ..............................

Steering stem adjusting nut..........adjust by hand until play is gone

Steering stem top nut ..................18 ft.lbs (25 Nm)

Swingarm nut ..............................37 ft/lbs (50 Nm)

Upper shock nut ..........................33 ft/lbs (45 Nm)

General torque values for fasteners not listed above

bolt size hex head size Socket head size ft/lb m/kg Nm

5mm bolt . . . . .XXmm head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.6ft/lb . ..5m/kg . . . .5Nm

5mm screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.9ft/lb . .4m/kg . . . . 4Nm

6mm bolt . . . . .10mm head . . . .5mm . . . . . . . . . .7ft/lb . . .1m/kg . . .10Nm

6mm screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6.5ft/lb . ..9m/kg . . . .9Nm

8mm bolt . . . . .12mm head . . . .6mm . . . . . . . . . .16ft/lb . .2.2m/kg . . 22Nm

10mm bolt . . . .14mm head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25ft/lb . .3.5m/kg . . .35Nm

12mm bolt . . . .17mm head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40ft/lb . .5.5m/kg . . .55Nm

14mm bolt . . . .19mm head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61ft/lb . .8.5m/kg . . .85Nm

16mm bolt . . . .22mm head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94ft/lb . .13m/kg . .130Nm

note: bolt size refers to thread size, not the wrench size used on head of bolt!

bolt head sizes are for standard hardware, use torque values in service sections if provided.

56810

12 14 16

Actual bolt sizes

III. MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENTS & SERVICE PROCEDURES

1. Notes & warnings

Use caution when working on or around motorcycle. Note that exhaust, engine, cooling system and brake parts may be

extremely hot after operation. Be very cautious of moving parts, especially the chain and sprockets which can draw clothing,

hair and fingers into sprockets, chain guard or chassis causing severe injury. Do not operate motorcycle in a confined area as

exhaust fumes can be fatal. This motorcycle is not equipped with a spark arrester and could discharge sparks from the muffler

which could ignite any nearby combustible materials causing fire or explosion. Do not use gasoline or other highly flammable liq-

uids to clean parts or air filter. Fire or explosion may result. Mix gas and fuel motorcycle only in well vented areas free of

sparks or flame. Note that gasoline fumes can travel long distances along the ground and readily ignite. Safety glasses are nec-

essary whenever working with oils or chemicals, whenever impact tools are used, or when tool breakage would result in flying metal

fragments. Any mechanism with a spring has the potential for flying parts and eye injury. The rear shock is charged with nitrogen

gas under very high pressure. It is not serviceable by the owner. DO NOT disassemble or discharge shock absorber. Use hearing pro-

tection to guard against exhaust noise, realize a helmet provides only limited protection from exhaust noise. When using wrenches,

adjust wrench so it can be pulled rather then pushed to prevent injury if wrench or sockets slips. Use caution with open end wrench-

es as they can easily round off fastener heads.

2. Maintenance & lubrication schedule chart

Air cleaner - Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance.

Transmission oil - change after every race, or at end of riding day.

Chain - check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions.

Clutch - disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time.

Ignition cover - remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation.

Piston rings - replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders.

Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips - replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders.

Coolant - change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible.

Steering bearings - Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed.

Swingarm - Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident.

Sprockets - check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted.

Chain roller & wear pads - check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check

chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle.

Spokes - Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage.

Wheels & tires - check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire

pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions.

Shock - Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness.

Forks - Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation.

Spark plug - check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or

overheating.

Silencer - If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube.

Expansion pipe - check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large

dents fixed, or any dents within 8” of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal.

Footpegs - check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull.

Handlebars - check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened

more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider.

Throttle - check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed.

Grips - check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position.

Calipers & pads - check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed.

Brake lever - check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave

lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed.

Brake pedal - Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed.

Reeds - Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure

reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders.

Nuts & bolts - Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently.

3. Maintenance preparation

Before servicing, clean motorcycle to allow better inspection and repair, especially before any motor work to prevent dirt from

falling into motor. Closely inspect entire motorcycle for broken or damaged parts on a regular basis.

Page 10

4. Coolant

Filling cooling system - When engine is cool, unscrew radiator cap slowly to release any pressure safely. Do not open when warm

or hot! Fill the radiator until liquid reaches opening. Wait a few minutes for the coolant to reach all the internal cavities, top off

coolant as needed. Coolant must be visible over internal fins, but does not have to reach all the way to filler neck. Screw radiator cap

back on. Start engine and run for a few minutes, making sure to engage clutch and spin rear wheel. After engine cools, remove cap

and recheck coolant level. Add coolant if required. Screw cap back on. Coolant level must always be checked when engine is cool.

Check each day before riding, and after every race. If the radiators were just filled, some coolant will initially escape as the motor

warms up. If coolant suddenly begins to discharge from the vent tube, look for a combustion chamber leak, improper timing, or lean

jetting. Use motorcycle coolant only, automotive antifreeze contains abrasive silica and may damage water pump seals. Read con-

tainer before use to determine if antifreeze needs to be diluted before use. Use antifreeze if freezing is possible to prevent engine

damage. Engine Ice®motorcycle coolant is recommended as it will lower operating temperatures and is non-toxic. Keep ALL

antifreeze away from children and pets!

Note: Water pump does not turn unless motorcycle is moving. Do not idle motorcycle for extended periods to prevent overheating.

5. Air filter cleaning

It is crucial to performance and engine life that the air filter be clean and properly oiled at all times. Proper cleaning is necessary to

remove dirt which could severely damage the engine, dirt buildup will also cause the motorcycle to run very rich and lose power rapid-

ly. The filter should be cleaned and re-oiled approximately every two hours of use under normal conditions, much more often during

dusty or wet conditions. Cleaning filter or using a freshly oiled air filter before every race is advisable. If water is used to clean the fil-

ter, the filter MUST be completely dry before re-oiling, or the water will evaporate leaving un-oiled portions of the filter which will

allow dirt and dust to pass directly into the motor. If the air filter gets soaked in water during use, it must be cleaned as soon as possible

because the water can displace the filter oil. Performance wise, having a clean air filter is the single most important item on the

motorcycle and requires the most maintenance. Purchasing one or more extra filters is a very good investment.

UNDER NO CONDITIONS USE GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS TO CLEAN FILTER.

In addition to creating an extreme fire hazard, these liquids will damage the filter foam over time, making it brittle and dissolving

the glue used to make the filter.

1. Clean your filter with Maxima, TwinAir air filter cleaner, or kerosene to remove all the oil residue.

2. Next, wash your filter twice with dish soap and hot water. Rinse a third time. Do not stretch or twist the filter. Be careful not to dam-

age or crush the seams at the corners of the filter.

3. Let filter dry completely, or else water will prevent oil from properly coating filter and will allow engine to suck dust through filter.

Use a hair dryer or leave filter in the sun to dry it more quickly.

4. Now that filter is totally dry, hit the filter on your hand to get all the dirt out. If you do this over a piece of paper or cardboard you

can see & hear the dirt falling onto it.

5. Now apply the filter oil, Maxima FFT Foam Filter Treatment is preferred as it is not prone to dripping into the carburetor and is

resistant to washing out by water or gas vapors. Using a plastic bag, put your filter into it and pour in some filter oil. Totally saturate

the filter with oil, making sure there are no dry spots. Squeeze out excess oil. Grease the groove on the aircleaner where it presses

onto the airbox to prevent air leaks. Make sure to use extra grease in the corners. Install filter with arrow to front,making sure groove

in air cleaner fits over sides of air box. Press filter cover over filter with arrow pointing to front to secure filter in place. Note that

spray air filter lubes must also be liberally applied, then squeezed, then the excess removed to insure full coverage. For racing use, a

long zip tie, or several attached together can be wrapped completely around air box and filter cover to insure positive retention.

6. Changing transmission oil

Change transmission oil often to remove clutch wear particles and other contaminants from transmission. Changing oil fre-

quently will greatly reduce the amount of clutch adjustment and cleaning required as well as reducing wear in the transmis-

sion. Change oil after every race or at end of each riding day. Note that the Maxima MTL 75 transmission fluid is specifically for-

mulated to extend clutch life and is strongly recommended!

To change the transmission oil, support motorcycle in a level position. Unscrew drain bolt on bottom of transmission cases using a

6mm allen wrench and remove drain screw from clutch side cover to fully drain oil. Drain oil while it is hot from riding to facilitate

draining of oil and wear debris. Dispose of used oil properly. Replace the transmission drain bolt and torque to 15 ft/lbs, install and

snug the transmission cover screw. Refill transmission using 10 oz. of recommended gear oil (Maxima MTL 75) through the upper

level checking screw. The vent hose fitting can also be removed and oil added there. (vent hose fitting is behind the coolant hose at

rear of cylinder) Aketchup squeeze bottle with a pointy tip is useful for injecting oil into screw hole. Mark the proper level on the

container so the right amount can be dispensed in the future without measuring. Check oil level after filling.

To check oil level, support bike in a level position and remove oil level check screw from side of case (screw is below kickstarter).

Oil should flow from hole. Add oil or allow excess oil to drain as required.

Page 11

Page 12

7. Seat removal

To remove seat, loosen large screw at rear of seat using a coin, or a wide, flat screwdriver. When screw is loose, lift up slightly on

rear of seat and slide seat to rear to remove.

To install seat, note slot underneath seat at front. This slot must engage the bolt head on top of the fuel tank. Also note hook

underneath seat. This hook will engage rear of fuel tank. Place seat on motorcycle with slot slightly to rear of bolt on tank. Slide seat

forward, making sure slot engages bolt, and hook engages rear of tank. Push seat forward firmly, then snug screw at rear of seat. Do

not overtighten. Make sure front of seat is properly installed by attempting to lift upwards.

8. Tank removal, checking, gas filter

To remove tank, first remove seat. Use phillips screwdriver to remove tank mounting screw. Disconnect vent hose from fuel cap.

Check to make sure fuel valve is off, then remove fuel line from fuel valve. Lift tank upwards to remove. Make sure rubber pads

located at front and rear of tank in recess that fits over frame do not get lost. Alittle weatherstrip cement can be used to secure the

pads permanently to the bottom of the tank. Use care in setting fuel tank down so that the fuel valve does not stick into dirt or

debris and get clogged. Make sure tank does not spill gas or vent fumes near flame or sparks.

To install tank, make sure fuel valve is not clogged with debris, run a little fuel into a container if there is any question and clean

as required. Make sure two rubber pads are in place inside fuel tank frame recess. Line slots in tank up with two rubber cylinders on

frame and lower tank onto frame. Install phillips bolt into grommet located to the rear and top of the fuel tank. Snug screw but do

not overtighten. Reattach vent hose. Attach carburetor fuel line to fuel valve, making sure end of line is free of dirt or debris.

To check fuel filter, drain fuel and remove tank. Remove two screws attaching fuel valve to bottom of tank using an 8mm socket.

Pull valve out of tank. Clean fuel filter carefully, do not attempt to remove filter from valve. Insert valve into fuel tank making sure

o-ring is in place and not damaged. Install 2 screws and gently snug against valve. Do not overtighten screws or they will strip the

threads in the tank. They only need to be snug for the o-ring to seal effectively. For racing use, you may wish to turn the fuel valve

around so the lever faces inwards. It may be necessary to file the bump on the end of the lever for clearance.

9. Braking system

The motorcycle uses cable operated mechanical disc brakes. Proper brake function is crucial for safe operation of motorcycle.

For proper operation, they must be kept clean and lubricated and adjusted to specifications. If brake pads are allowed to wear

out, they may damage the discs, requiring costly replacement. Muddy conditions and improper servicing will lead to rapid brake pad

wear and possible loss of braking. Calipers will need to be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated after riding in muddy or wet condi-

tions.

Front and rear calipers are the same except for the mounting bracket. The foot activated rear brake can only be adjusted at the

caliper, using the adjusting screw on the caliper and cable position adjustment. Replace brake pads when friction material is less than

1mm thick or if the pad surface is badly scored or damaged. Use grease cautiously when lubricating caliper assembly so that grease

does not come out and contaminate the pads or disc.

Check brake rotors for damage, wear and wobble. If wear is noticeable check thickness of rotor several times across face, replace

rotors if they measure less than 2.5mm (.098˝). Use threadlocker on brake rotor bolts, and torque to XX ft/lbs.

shaft

pad

retaining

bolts

caliper lever

hold hex nut with

wrench, use allen

wrench to loosen

set screw & adjust

cable

nut

III

4-5mm

Front caliper components, rear similar.Adjust front brake lever play to 4-5mm as shown.

Brake adjustment - As the brake pads wear, adjustment to the caliper will become

necessary to restore proper freeplay at the brake lever. A stroke of about 5-10mm

should be obtained as measured at end of the caliper lever. To make this adjustment,

unscrew caliper arm nut (2) and rotate threaded shaft (1) clockwise with a 2.5mm

allen wrench until the correct stroke of the caliper lever is restored. Then, while

holding the threaded shaft against rotation, tighten the caliper arm nut (2) again (to

60 in./lbs), and check that the wheel is not dragging or locked. Make final adjust-

ments at the brake lever adjuster as needed. See illustration III.1

Front brake caliper service

Support bike on stand with front wheel off ground. Remove front wheel. Loosen

cable clamp screw using a 2.5mm allen wrench while holding cable clamp body

with an 8mm wrench. Remove cable from arm. Be careful not to lose cable clamp

assembly. Caliper will now slide off pins on mounting bracket. Remove two pad

retaining bolts using a 3mm allen wrench and remove pads. Remove caliper lever

using a 8mm wrench to remove retaining nut. Note position of lever spring.

Remove two caliper housing bolts using a 4mm allen wrench. Push on lever shaft to

remove caliper piston from housing, make sure not to lose two small rollers. Remove

cylinder from center of piston. See photo III-4.

Clean caliper housings thoroughly, especially the piston bore. Clean piston assembly and make sure allen screw turns freely.

Lubricate allen screw and piston cylinder carefully so excess lubricant does not end up on pads or disc. Lightly grease two rollers

and insert them into piston bore, using a little grease to hold them in place. Lightly grease ramps on back of caliper piston and insert

piston back into caliper housing. Assemble caliper housing using two bolts, torque to XX ft/lbs. Then insert pads with friction mate-

rials facing each other and install two pad retaining bolts and torque to XX in/lbs. Install lever spring and caliper lever and loosely

install nut to retain lever. Push caliper onto mounting pins and reinstall front wheel. Spread pads to insert disc between pads. If disc

will not fit between pads, turn allen screw on caliper lever shaft counterclockwise to loosen pad adjustment. Attach brake cable to

caliper lever and adjust caliper free play. Tighten caliper lever retaining nut to 60 in/lbs. Adjust cable position and brake lever as

needed.

Rear brake caliper service - Support bike on stand with rear wheel off ground. Remove rear

wheel. Proceed with service as for front brake caliper. Note that rear brake mounting bracket slot must

engage pin on swingarm to prevent rotation, and that pedal freeplay is adjusted only at the caliper.

10. Expansion pipe & silencer, repacking

The exhaust system on your Polini needs regular service to properly quiet the bike and maintain

peak power. The silencer uses fiberglass packing to reduce sound. If the packing becomes saturated

with oil, or burnt and fragmented the exhaust gases will be much more turbulent in the silencer

which will noticeably reduce power output as well as making the bike much louder.

The expansion pipe should be checked for cracks and large dents on a regular basis. Small dents

on the pipe will not affect power much unless they are located within 6-8 inches of the cylinder.

Make sure to replace the o-rings on the pipe when servicing motor. If the o-rings leak, power will

be reduced in addition to the mess leaking oil will cause. When pipe is removed, check inside of pipe where it joins the cylinder for

deposits of oil and carbon. Remove any deposits with solvent and a scraper. If cracks or holes are found, have welded or replace

pipe. Most dents can be fixed by companies specializing in this service. Make sure pipe mounting spring(s) are in place and tight.

Front caliper assembly

III

lever

arm

hold “nut”

and loosen set

screw to adjust

cable

rollers

III

Grease ramps and rollers &

lubricate adjusting screw

grease

lube

Exploded view of caliper assembly.

Page 13

Page 14

Repacking silencer - To service silencer, remove right side panel/number plate.

Remove bolt and clamp securing silencer to frame using a 6mm allen wrench.

Twist and pull silencer off pipe. Remove three bolts at front of muffler using a

4mm allen wrench. Hold rear section of silencer with one hand and pull outer

body of silencer off with other hand. Remove all remnants of silencer packing

from both sections. If holes in inner tube are partially or fully clogged, use a drill

bit of the proper size to remove the deposits from all the holes. Use a wire brush

on the outside to help loosen deposits. Purchase fiberglass packing made for

motorcycle silencers. If necessary, cut packing to the width of the silencer inner

tube by about two feet long. Starting at one end, roll the packing material around

the silencer inner tube, tucking the material into the endcap as needed. Wrap

material snugly, but not so tight as to compress the material more than a little bit.

If the packing will not fit into the outer body, unroll the packing a few inches

and trim off material until the outer body will fit snugly. Slide the outer body most of the way on, then seal the endcap with a light

coat of silicone sealant to help prevent oil from dripping. Slide the outer body over the endcap, align the three holes and insert and

tighten the three bolts. If oil drips out of silencer, a leaner main jet may be indicated. See section III-18 for testing procedure.

11. Cables - adjustment & lubrication

Check throttle and brake cables frequently for binding or damage. Check for frayed ends or broken strands. Make sure cables have

proper amount of freeplay. Cables can be lubricated with a special tool, available at most motorcycle stores. Replace cables often,

lubrication will not fix a damaged or worn cable. Lubricating a cable will also attract dust, so inspect lubricated cables often.

12. Plastic care and cleaning

Cleaning bike frequently will keep motorcycle cooler and reduce weight. Mud can substantially increase weight of motorcycle. A

clean bike is easier to inspect and service. However, be very cautious if using a pressure washer! The extremely high pressure water

can cause considerable damage to wheel bearings, steering bearings, brake calipers, shock and fork seals, throttle grip, suspension

bearings & bushings, carburetor, air cleaner and many other areas. Do not spray these areas directly, rather, work carefully around

them to remove dirt but not force dirt or water into the bearing and seals of the motorcycle. At end of day, remove alternator cover

and wipe any moisture out with a clean rag. The heating and cooling of the electrical system tends to cause moisture to condense

inside the cover. If racing in mud, spray silicone or cooking spray heavily inside fenders and on number plates to help repel mud.

Also spray a light coat on number plates to help keep numbers visible. Do not use any abrasive cleaners on plastic. Soft Scrub®

cleanser seems to work well for cleaning dingy white plastic. Simple Green®is excellent for overall bike cleaning, and is non-toxic

and biodegradable as well. It also works well for removing stains from riding gear. A light coat of WD40®will keep the bike looking

shiny and new. A product called Plastic Renew®also does a good job of making plastic and decals shiny and repairing minor scuffs.

13. Footpegs

Check footpegs often for proper operation. Make sure they pivot freely and return smartly to level position when released. Bend

spring for more tension or replace to maintain proper operation. Check pegs to make sure they are level, replace if they are bent.

Points of teeth can be filed to restore them to their original condition, but for safety’s sake do not make them overly sharp. Sharp

teeth will also increase boot wear.

14. Vent hoses - carburetor, coolant & transmission

Make sure vent hoses are properly routed and not kinked or clogged at the ends. The carburetor vent hoses tend to get clogged at

the ends, which can prevent the carburetor from working properly. The hoses should run between the end of the transmission cases

Roll new packing material around inner core.

Inserting inner tube and packing into outer body.

insert packing

into endcap

III

Page 15

and the swingarm. The radiator overflow tube runs down the front left frame rail.

Make sure the transmission vent line is properly secured and pointing to the rear of

the bike so it does not tend to gather water. If the line is removed from the vent fit-

ting, make sure to always replace it. Make sure the gas cap overflow hose is not

kinked, twisted or clogged. Any obstruction can cause the tank to develop a vacuum,

which will prevent gas flow to carburetor. See section II-4 for proper hose routing.

15. Reed valve, intake boots

Check rubber intake boots to make sure clamps are on in the proper location and

are tight. Any leak will suck in dust and quickly destroy the motor. A leak between

the carburetor and case will cause the motor to run lean, which will cause the idle to

climb and could cause piston damage under heavy load. Check boots for cracks or

punctures. The engine uses a reed block assembly to run properly. If the reeds are

damaged, frayed or worn, the motor will have low compression and will be hard to

start and down on power. If a reed breaks it will be sucked into the piston which can

cause considerable damage. Check reeds whenever the engine is serviced, and replace

reeds if they don’t sit flat against sealing surface or if they show any visible wear at all. Use blue threadlocker on 4 screws securing

reeds during reassembly. Install reed valve to case using a new gasket and torque 4 Xmm allen bolts to XX ft/lbs.

16.1 Engine Service - rings & piston

Under racing conditions, ring replacement is recommended every 10 hours of use, and piston replacement after every 20 hours of

use. For practice and occasional race use, replace rings every 20 hours and piston every 30 hours or if power seems less than usual,

the motor “pings” or becomes hard to start. Timely ring replacement will extend the useful life of the piston. Any excess ring wear

will immediately and dramatically reduce top end power and will make starting more difficult. Always use new rings & circlips (2)

when replacing piston, replacing rod bearing and pin with each new piston is also a good idea. Use of a high quality synthetic or

semi-synthetic premix oil such as Maxima K2 will greatly extend piston life and reduce spark plug and muffler fouling.

Piston & ring removal

Clean motorcycle thoroughly to prevent dirt from falling into motor.

Remove seat - Remove screw at rear of seat using a large flat screwdriver,

then pull seat rearward and up.

Remove fuel tank - Remove fuel tank mounting screw using a large phillips

screwdriver. Pull end of vent hose out of gas cap. Make sure fuel valve is off,

then pull rubber hose off fuel valve. Pull tank off motorcycle and set aside

away from fire or sparks, taking care that fuel does not spill. Make sure to

cover end of fuel valve, or prop off ground to prevent dirt from entering it. Do

not lose two rubber insulators under gas tank.

Remove expansion pipe - Remove spring(s) attaching pipe to cylinder. A tool

can be purchased from your local dealer or Action Racing which will ease this

task. (See photos III-9 and III-10)

Remove lock nut from rubber pipe mount (located on right frame rail near

exhaust springs) Gently twist pipe side to side and pull forwards to detach it

from cylinder exhaust extension. When pipe is free of cylinder, turn front

wheel to right, then continue to pull rear of pipe out of muffler. When pipe is

free, pull it forward, and then rotate top of pipe outward (see photo III-11) and

carefully guide pipe out of frame rails. Do not force pipe.

Remove exhaust extension by removing two socket head screws using a

5mm allen wrench. See photo III-12.

Drain coolant - Make sure bike is cool. Loosen radiator cap. Put a container

under bike to collect coolant. Remove socket head drain bolt (see illustration III-

13, III-15) using 4mm allen wrench and allow coolant to drain. Remove cap and

lean bike to help insure complete draining. Make sure copper sealing washer is

on bolt, then re-install bolt snugly to prevent loss.

Reed valve assembly.

III

Remove 2 springs, and nut from exhaust mount.

III

Homemade spring removal tool.

III

.10

Page 16

Move radiators to side - remove hose clamp (by prying end of clamp with flat-bladed screwdriv-

er) and hose attached to cylinder head. Loosen clamp on hose on top of left side radiator (where

hose goes through frame). Unhook rubber cord retaining radiator at top.

Pull top of radiator out of hose, then lift radiator up to disengage lower mounting pin from

frame mount. Hang radiator to side using rubber cord (see photo III-14)

Loosen clamp on hose at top of right side radiator. Pull hose off of radiator from left side of

frame, then remove clamp if it didn’t come out of frame cavity with hose. Pull top of radiator

away from frame, then lift up to remove. Clean front frame tube and frame tube over motor.

Remove spark plug - using 13⁄16˝ (21mm) wrench for NGK plugs, 5⁄8˝ wrench for original

Champion plug.

Remove cylinder nuts - Remove 4 nuts on top of cylinder head using a 10mm wrench. To pre-

vent warpage, loosen nuts 1⁄4turn at a time using a criss-cross pattern until finger tight, then

remove.

Remove cylinder head - Lift up on cylinder head to remove. Rock side to side to loosen if necessary. DO NOT insert a screw driver

or other implement between head and cylinder as damage will result! Small o-rings may stick to underside of head, take care not to

lose them. Lift up on combustion chamber to remove from cylinder. Do not lose o-rings on underside, remove from head to prevent

them from dropping into engine. Wipe up any coolant or dirt on cylinder or piston.

Rotate pipe outward and ease rear portion of pipe through

frame. Note position of front wheel.

lubricate hose with

soapy water

III

.11

1Remove exhaust extension using 5mm allen wrench.

Hang radiator to side using rubber o-ring

Remove radiator cap & drain coolant using bleed screw

Coolant drain screw

III

.12

III

.13

III

.14

III

.15

Page 17

Remove cylinder - Lift cylinder straight up on studs. Rock cylin-

der to loosen as required - DO NOT pry between cylinder and

cases. When cylinder nears top frame rail, angle cylinder rearward

to match angle of top frame rail. Using care not to scratch inside

of cylinder on studs, slide cylinder forward about 1 inch, then

remove cylinder from right side. The front studs will pass through

the center opening of the lower cylinder walls.

If unable to remove cylinder, remove front studs by threading

two nuts onto end of stud, tightening the two nuts against each

other, and then removing the stud by turning the lower nut with a

wrench. Using a clean rag, immediately wrap rag around bottom

of connecting rod and cover top of crankshaft area to prevent dirt,

circlips, or other parts from falling into motor and necessitating

engine removal and disassembly!

Remove piston - Hold piston in one hand, then use a pair of

needlenose pliers to squeeze ends of piston circlip together and

remove circlip. Do not squeeze ends more than required to remove

circlip. Make sure not to drop circlips into motor! While support-

ing piston, push piston pin away from remaining circlip and out of

piston and set aside. Remove piston by lifting straight up. Remove

rod bearing from end of connecting rod.

Inspection

Clean all parts thoroughly, then carefully examine all parts for

wear, cracking or signs of leakage. Look for signs of blow by on

piston skirt. A good, thorough inspection will prevent unsolved

problems from causing the motorcycle to fail. Order any parts

needed right away to prevent delays. Inspect the cylinder bore for

scratches or other damage. The aluminum alloy cylinder is coated,

it can not be over-bored and must be replaced if oversize or badly

damaged.

Inspect piston closely inside and out for scratches, cracks or

other damage. Excessive scorching below ring is cause for

replacement. Examine piston pin for wear, then check fit of pin in

piston. There should be no noticeable slop. Put rod bearing in end

of rod, and fit piston pin through bearing. Lift straight up on pin

to check for any play. Replace bearing and pin when installing

new piston kit.

Pull straight up on connecting rod. If any play is detected, use a

dial indicator to check amount of play. Check side clearance of

crankshaft using a feeler gage between bottom of rod and side of

crankshaft weight. A feeler gage larger than .030˝ should not fit.

Have crankshaft rebuilt or replaced as needed.

Fit new ring into top of cylinder bore about 1⁄2˝. Insert piston

from top upside down just enough to make ring square in bore,

then remove piston. Check gap between ends of piston ring using

feeler gages. A problem exists with the ring or the cylinder if the gap is less than .004˝ or more than .012˝. Resolve before proceed-

ing.

Examine head, combustion chamber and cylinder for signs of coolant or combustion leakage. Replacing o-rings is recommended

every time engine is disassembled, especially the highly stressed combustion chamber o-ring. If motor overheats and coolant over-

flows, suspect a failure of the combustion chamber o-ring.

Check flatness of cylinder head and combustion chamber sealing surfaces using a sheet of glass, surface plate, or other very flat

surface. Replace or machine as required. If reusing piston, remove any carbon deposits on top of piston dome using solvent and a

brass or plastic scraper. Use end of old piston ring to clean ring groove(s). Be careful not to scratch or damage piston. Remove any

carbon deposits from exhaust port using solvents and a soft scraper.

If the rings are changed regularly, and the piston, piston pin and rod bearing are changed whenever any wear is evident, the air fil-

ter is scrupulously maintained to prevent dirt from entering the motor, and a high quality premix oil is used at a 40:1 ratio, then thor-

ough visual inspection and part replacement will be all the service that is needed for quite some time.

Photo of combustion chamber. Note o-rings on spark plug boss

and cylinder studs.

Photo of cylinder and piston dome. Note o-rings on studs.

III

.17

III

.16

III

.17

Page 18

If new rings and/or piston does not seem to restore the normal amount of

power and the usual starting and running still suffers, then bring the motor to

a machine shop for a thorough inspection using precision measuring tools.

This detailed inspection follows below.

Engine tolerances - Measure piston OD as shown in illustration III-18.

Measure cylinder bore from front to rear near the top, in the middle and

near the bottom. Check again from side to side in the same manner.

Calculate piston to cylinder clearance using the largest cylinder measurement

and the piston measurement.

Piston to cylinder clearance = (cylinder bore - piston size)

Piston to cylinder clearance should be between .03mm and .07mm

Check the engine compression while the bike is new, and again after it is

broken in and write it down. To check compression, remove spark plug and

screw in hose snugly for compression gage. Hold throttle wide open, and

cycle kickstarter several times. Record highest pressure reached. If testing at

a later date reveals a much lower compression, suspect a badly worn or stuck

ring, a leaking combustion chamber o-ring, cracked or damaged

reeds, clogged air filter, or leaking crankshaft seals. Rings can be

worn but still record a compression test near normal. A leakdown test

is a much better indicator of ring seal and motor condition. This test

measures leakage of rings as a percentage. Aspecial tool is required

for this test and a source of compressed air. If bike was overheating

badly and discharging coolant, look for a leak from the combustion

chamber or cylinder into coolant passages.

Cylinder ID - Iron cylinder: 40.0 - 40.015mm new,

40.030mm max

Aluminum cylinder: 40.180 - 40.220mm new,

40.230mm max

Piston to cylinder clearance: .030mm min, .070mm max

Ring Gap: .45mm max

Reassembly

Clean all parts thoroughly before assembly!

Piston ring - Remove old ring by spreading ends of ring with

fingers and lifting off piston. Run end of old piston ring along piston ring

groove to clean it being careful not to scratch piston skirt (if re-using old

piston). Install new ring by spreading with fingers the least amount possi-

ble, and easing ring over top of piston and into ring groove. Align gap in

ring with pin in piston groove. Works model single ring does not have a top

or bottom side.

Rod bearing - Lube inside of rod bore with premix oil. Lightly coat rod

bearing with premix oil and insert into rod bore.

Piston - Install one circlip into piston with opening to top of piston. Lightly

coat sides of piston, pin bores and ring with premix oil. Note arrow on top

of piston, it must point to front of motorcycle. Lower piston over connect-

ing rod and line up holes in piston with rod bearing. Insert piston pin

through piston and bearing and snug up to circlip. Install 2nd circlip into

piston with open end up. Make sure both circlips are fully seated into their

grooves. DO NOT re-use circlips. They loose tension with each installa-

tion and could become loose and severely damage the motor.

Measure piston diameter at points indicated.

Note position of circlip when installing.

Squeeze ring(s) on both sides of piston when inserting into

cylinder. Make sure ring(s) are centered on alignment pin(s).

III

.18

III

.19

Grind away

Modify pliers to install hose clamps

side view of plier jaws

III

.20

Page 19

Cylinder - Coat both sides of the base gasket with a thin coat of RTV silicone sealer, especially around the water passages. Install

the base gasket onto the base of the cylinder and line it up with the casting. Slide the cylinder into position over the cylinder studs,

then lower it onto the studs. When cylinder nears the piston, prop the cylinder in position over the piston. Make sure the piston ring

gap is centered over the alignment pin in the ring groove at the left rear of the piston. Using your thumb and forefinger, reach around

the piston and compress the piston ring into its groove on both sides, making sure the ring gap is still centered over the alignment

pin in the ring groove. Line the piston up with the cylinder bore and lower the cylinder and/or raise the piston until the top of the

piston and the piston ring enter the cylinder. If the piston won’t slide into the cylinder, do not force it. Remove the piston and try

again. The ring must be compressed to enter the base of the cylinder, and the piston ring gap must line up with the alignment pin in

the ring groove. Insert the piston into the cylinder as far as possible, then lower the cylinder onto the cases. See photo III-19.

Head - Using a little premix oil, stick the large o-ring into its groove in the underside of the combustion chamber. Place 4 small o-

rings over cylinder studs and against top of cylinder. Making sure the o-rings stay in place, slide the combustion chamber over the

cylinder studs and down onto the cylinder. Install the large o-ring around the spark plug hole and the 4 smaller o-rings on the cylin-

der studs. Install the large o-ring gasket into the groove of the cylinder head and install it on top of the combustion chamber. Thread

the 4 cylinder nuts onto the cylinder studs finger tight. Check to make sure the cylinder fits the cases tightly and the cylinder head

fits the cylinder tightly. Torque the cylinder nuts in 3 stages using a criss cross pattern each time. Tighten using a good quality torque

wrench to 3 ft/lbs, then 6 ft/lbs, finally to 10 ft/lbs. Install spark plug and torque to 20 ft/lbs.

Reinstall radiators in reverse order. Use a pair of pliers modified as per illustration III-20 or a CV joint clamp plier (available at

autopart stores) to snap the hose clamps closed again. Bolt exhaust extension in place and torque bolts to 10 Nm. Guide expansion

pipe through frame and insert rear of pipe into muffler. Lubricate o-ring on front of pipe, then insert front of pipe into exhaust exten-

sion and twist pipe back and forth while pushing to fully install pipe.

Hook spring(s) onto exhaust extension, then hook onto pipe. Install lock

nut on rubber mount and snug — do not overtighten. Replace fuel tank

and rear seat. Do not tighten tank or seat screw excessively. Add motorcy-

cle type coolant to radiator until full. Put bike on stand with rear wheel off

ground. Start bike and rev just enough to circulate coolant. Recheck

coolant level and add coolant as needed. Follow instructions for break-in

(Section I-4) to maximize piston and ring life.

16.2 Crankcase & Transmission

Disassembly

Remove engine from frame - Remove seat and fuel tank. See section III-

16.1 for removal of the following items. Remove exhaust pipe and exhaust

extension. Remove carburetor from airbox & engine boot and set off to

side. Drain coolant and remove left radiator. Disconnect radiator hoses

from water pump cover. Remove hose and water outlet from top of cylin-

der head. Drain transmission oil. Loosen chain, remove sprocket guard,

remove external snap ring and remove front sprocket from counter shaft.

Remove vent hose from fitting on engine. Remove brake pedal. Remove

ignition cover. Make an index mark on stator and case with

magic marker or pen to help with retiming the motor on reassem-

bly. Remove spark plug & install piston stop tool. Use puller to

remove flywheel - see section III-20. Remove three phillips head

screws and remove stator from engine, making sure to remove

wiring grommet from case so it does not pull on stator wires. Set

stator to side. Remove stator mounting plate using 3mm allen

wrench. See photo III-21.

Remove kickstarter and clutch cover. Using piston stop tool,

remove clutch nut and remove clutch assembly from crankshaft,

see section III-17. Remove front motor bolt, then remove rear

swingarm pivot bolt. Pull engine upward and forwards to disen-

gage from swingarm, and remove from frame on left side.

Remove cylinder head, cylinder, piston and reed valve assem-

bly - See sections III-15 and III-16.1

Remove 11 case bolts from left side of engine using 5mm allen

wrench, including 4 under stator mounting plate. See photo III-

22. Fit case splitting tool over crank shaft on right (clutch) side

of engine as shown. Install bolts to secure tool to engine case. Make sure to remove 4 case bolts beneath stator mounting plate.

Remove stator plate to expose 4 case bolts

III

.21

III

.22

Page 20

Use 6mm allen wrench to turn forcing screw and begin to separate cases. See

photo III-23. Turn forcing screw a little at a time. If it seems to require a lot of

effort, check to make sure all the case bolts have been removed. Do not use

screwdriver to pry cases apart! The transmission gears will not be able to sep-

arate during this process, so the countershaft will have to pull through the left

case as the cases separate. Gently tap on the splined countershaft to ease it

through the seal and bearing and allow the left side case to be removed.

Crankshaft - Use the crankcase splitting tool again to remove the crankshaft

from the left side case. Inspect the bearings for wear or damage. Rotate bear-

ings and check for rough or loose areas. Do not spin bearings dry or with

compressed air as damage will result. If bearings need to be removed from

crankshaft, use a bearing puller and a press. Rotate connecting rod and check

for play or binding of the big end rod bearing. Check flywheel and clutch

mounting surfaces for wear, damaged keyways or threads. If possible, use a

dial indicator to make sure both sides of crankshaft are true and do not wob-

ble. Have crank serviced or replaced as needed.

Note: install crankshaft seals after crankshaft has been installed and both

cases put back together. If the seal is installed before crankshaft installation,

the seal may be damaged or pushed out when cases are put back together.

Transmission - If the transmission gears or shafts need servicing, remove

the nut and then the large driven gear (just to the rear of the clutch assem-

bly). On newer models, the gear is splined and can easily by removed. On

older models, the driven gear fits snugly on the transmission mainshaft using

a keyway. A puller may be needed to remove the gear if the cases are not

split. If the cases are split and a puller is not available, put a metal dowel on

the end of the mainshaft and tap gently on the end of the dowel with a ham-

mer. Do not attempt to remove the transmission shafts without removing this

gear first, as the water pump drive gear will not allow the countershaft to

move outward far enough for removal if the mainshaft is not free to move.

Inspect the gears, shafts, and bearings closely for damage, bending, or

excessive wear. Also check the cases for damage or cracks around the bear-

ing bores and the swingarm pivot boss. Welding the cases is not recommend-

ed due to potential warpage. Replace any damaged parts.

Reassembly - Make sure all gasket material has been removed

from the engine cases and any dirt or debris flushed away.

Always replace seals and gaskets with new parts. Lubricate

crankshaft bearings with clean premix oil. Install crankshaft

bearing as far as possible into right & left cases. Use a large

socket to press bearings into place by pushing on the outer

bearing shell only. Use a press if available, otherwise use a

hammer to tap bearings evenly into place.

Position crankshaft into right side case, making sure connect-

ing rod points up between cylinder studs. Squeeze crankshaft

into case by hand while tapping crankshaft counterweight gen-

tly with a brass or plastic hammer in a criss cross pattern to

seat crankshaft into right side case.

Install transmission shafts and gears into right case (if

removed previously). Check gear alignment to make sure the

gears engage fully and turn smoothly. Check that the counter-

shaft gear drives the water pump assembly properly. Lubricate the transmission shaft bearings bearingwith transmission oil, and the

connecting rod bearing with premix oil.

Check that the 2 case alignment dowel pins are in place. Coat case gasket with high tack adhesive, then align gasket and install

over dowel pins.

Place left side case over crankshaft and align transmission shafts with bearings in case. Squeeze cases together by hand, then use a

brass or plastic hammer to gently tap left case around flywheel and transmission area to ease cases together. If necessary, use two C

clamps on front and rear mounting bosses to help pull cases together while tapping with hammer. Do not use excessive force, stop

and start over if cases will not come together without damage. When cases are close enough together, check to make sure gasket is

Use case splitting tool to separate cases.

Do not pry between cases!

Install case splitting tool as shown.

Driven gear (opposite side) must be removed before transmission

shafts can be removed from case.

Note:

Countershaft

must pull

through case

mainshaft countershaft

III

.23

III

.24

III

.25

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