Premier 4000c User manual

2031 300th St., Washington, IA 52353 • [email protected]
800-282-6631 • www.premier1supplies.com
Premier Clippers and Shearers
Manual

1
Warning!
If the clipper stops cutting, do not try to force it to cut by turning the nut down and increasing
the tension. That will cause overheating, extra blade wear and may damage the motor—and it
won’t cut any better. Instead, remove the blades, clean the cutting surfaces and replace them at
the correct tension. If they still do not cut, have the blades resharpened.
Setting Tension for Clipping Head
1. Fit the blades on to the clipper head. The top blade will fit into the
groove of the clipper head. The bottom blade should be placed over the
comb pegs with the Premier logo visible. Screw the tension nut down
hand-tight.
2. Turn the tension nut back two turns.
3. Oil the blades. Apply a few drops of oil at least every 3 min.
to prolong blade sharpness and reduce friction and heating.
Also apply a few drops to the hole labeled “oil” every 10 – 15 minutes.
This oils the round bushing that drives the top blade back and forth.
Premier Clipper
The Premier 4000c
Uniquely fast, powerful and compact—a delight to use for those in a hurry. Plows straight
through dense, thick fiber. Large, high speed permanent magnet (rare earth magnets) motor
enables it to deliver more torque to the blades than any other brand even though it's much
smaller to grip, lighter in weight, and shorter in length than all other large clippers.
Drives a shear head with cutter and combs with equal power.
Why did we discontinue the Premier 3000?
We noticed that most users who bought it wanted, in time, to upgrade to the faster, more
powerful 4000. So it made sense to sell only the 4000.
Are all Premier 4000c clippers the same?
No. In 2002 we made the following changes:
1. The pins in the head that hold the lower blade are alloy metal instead of plastic
(We eliminated pin wear and loss issues in exchange for a little more vibration.)
2. The on-off switch is smaller-less prone to being turned off inadvertently.
3. Motor speed has increased by approximately 10%.
4. Motor is made in the USA instead of Europe.
5. Air is forced out forward through the head-keeps the head cooler.
New Clipper Head—Improved in 2009!
1. New look!
2. Internal roller bearings instead of bushings (less heat, less wear and greater longevity).
3. Sleek, low profile head design.
4. Improved design of stainless steel inserts to reduce risk of these falling out.
• Slick shear lambs
• Prepare sale cattle
• Clip show cattle, goats and pigs
• Professional horse clipping
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Premier 4000c Clipper ................................................................ 1
Interchangeable clipping head .................................................... 1
Choosing the right clipping blade for each situation .................. 2
Preparing the animal for clipping ................................................ 3
Clipping machine lubrication ....................................................... 3
Important warnings ..................................................................... 4
Clipper head parts ....................................................................... 5
Premier 4000s Shear .................................................................. 6
Interchangeable shearing head ................................................... 6
Fitting combs & cutters to shear head ........................................ 7
Choosing the right combs & cutters for each situation .............. 8
Shear machine lubrication .......................................................... 9
Important warnings .................................................................. 10
Shear head parts ........................................................................11
Shearing instructions/diagrams ....................................... 12 – 15
Power supply, safety issues, storing blades & sharpening ........ 16
Maintenance, troubleshooting, repair & warranty ..................... 17

2
Choosing the right clipping
blade for each situation
Premier Top Blade
It is the upper and moving portion of Premier’s blade sets. Also available as a
replacement. The top blade is included with every Premier Super Surgical, Surgical, Fine,
Medium and Coarse blade set.
Premier Super Surgical Blade Set
35 teeth. 0.02 normal cutting depth. Trims the closest of any blade available. It can give
thin skinned animals the appearance of razor burn if not used by an experienced clipper.
This blade can only be sharpened 1 to 3 times in its lifetime.
• For slick shearing lambs
• For surgical procedures
Premier Surgical Blade Set
35 teeth. 0.04 normal cutting depth. Surgical blades shave the fiber right down to the
skin. Very smooth result.
• For slick shearing lambs
• For surgical procedures
Premier Fine Blade Set
35 teeth. 0.06 normal cutting depth.
• For slick shearing sheep
• For clipping heads and bellies of cattle
• For body clipping performance horses
Premier Medium Blade Set
35 teeth. 0.08 cutting depth (twice a surgical blade set).
• For body clipping horses
• For slick shearing pink-shinned sheep
Premier Coarse Blade Set
18 teeth. 0.12 in. cutting depth. Half as many teeth as Fine/Medium's. Leaves more
fiber, but a less even finish.
• For clipping llamas/alpacas
• For body clipping dirty, dense, matted hair on dogs and horses
Premier Xtra Cover Blade Set
24 lower teeth; 22 upper teeth. 0.25 in. cutting depth. Leaves 300% more fiber depth
than a “Premier Fine”. Make sure to follow your local or state rules for appropriate length
of hair to be left on pigs.
• For clipping show pigs and goats
• Leaves smooth, even high  ber  nish on cattle and sheep for production sales
1.
2.
3.
3
Oil Points (see diagram at right)
1. Oil the Round Drive
2. Oil tips of the upper and lower
blades with oil—frequently.
3. Oil Guide Blocks /Stainless Inserts
• Purpose? To reduce blade wear, blade heat build-up and the load on the clipper motor.
• How often? Most do not lubricate frequently enough—and use too much oil when they
do so. Apply three drops of oil every 3 minutes to the tips of the teeth. If the hair, wool or
fiber is very dry (e.g. alpaca and llama fibers), the lubrication must be more frequent. If
the hair is wet or contains natural oils (e.g. unwashed sheep with lanolin in their wool)
the lubrication can be less frequent.
• Where should the oil be placed? On to the top of the blades at the front of the
head (2 above)—very important to oil frequently. Every 10 minutes (every third blade
lubrication), oil the round drive (1 above). Also on outer tips of the two guide blocks of
the upper blade (3 above).
• Do you need to remove blades to lubricate them? Not unless they stop cutting.
• What type of oil should be used? We supply #10 White Clipping Oil because it is
thick enough to lubricate, thin enough not to collect dirt and hair fibers and clear—thus
reducing the risk of oil stains on the animal. If you wish to use another oil, be careful not
to use oil that is too thick.
• What about blade washes? They are rarely needed. It is better to simply oil frequently
and use a brush to remove any loose hair that may accumulate on the top of the blades.
Warning: If you use blade wash or dip the blades in an oil bath, be very careful not
to tip the clipper upwards until it has run for 5 seconds. Otherwise, lubricant may run
backwards through the lubricated head and eventually foul the gears and motor.
• What about spray-on blade coolants? They accelerate evaporation from the blade
surfaces and thus do cool the blades more rapidly. However, all blade coolants are also
excellent solvents—that remove the oil from the blades at the same time. So, if you use
a coolant, immediately re-oil after the solvent/coolant has evaporated and before you
continue clipping. You also need to check the tension of the blades. If they are becoming
hot, the tension is probably too tight and/or the blades need more frequent lubrication
with the correct oil.
Preparing the Animal for Clipping
• Remove the dirt from the hair  rst. If this is not done, expect accelerated
blade wear and a reduction in animals clipped between blade sharpenings in exact
proportion to the amount of dirt present. The benefits of dirt removal prior to clipping
cannot be over-emphasized. Example: Those who wash their lambs prior to clipping
often clip 20 – 30 club lambs between sharpenings (if the blades have been sharpened
properly on a lapping machine). Those who don’t and have lambs with sand and soil
in the wool often clip less than two lambs between sharpenings.
• Washing the animal with soap and water removes the most dirt. If this is not
practical, use a high power vacuum or blower to remove as much dirt as possible from
the hair or wool.
• Restrain the animal. Few animals like the sound of a clipper or the feel of vibration
on their skin. When they react to either without warning, accidents can and will
happen. Therefore, for the sake of you, your animal and your clipper, restrain the
animal properly prior to clipping.
Clipping Machine Lubrication

4
Important Warnings
Ventilated Motors:
Do not attempt to connect this forward ventilated motor to any Premier shear head or
clipper head acquired by yourself or your dealer before June 20, 2003.
If you do the motor will overheat & destroy the internal windings.
Why? The air from this motor is driven forward and out through the heads. This is a
new feature that results in cooler operating temperatures (up to 20 degrees less) of heads,
blades, combs and cutters. However, for this to occur the shear head or clipper head is
designed to enable the air to exit through the head. Older clipper heads can easily be
changed to allow this by knocking out the 2 black plastic kidney-shaped plugs on either
side of the drive shaft.
Shear heads supplied before June 20, 2003 will need to be sent back to
Premier for retro tting before they can be  tted to this motor.
Clipping Machine Warning:
Unlike some other clipper motors, this motor will neither slow down nor sound
different when oil is needed. But failure to oil will quickly cause damage to the blades and
drive head. So you must apply oil by time instead of sound. Apply a small amount of oil
every 3 minutes to the tips of the teeth and each side of the blade by dipping them into a
dish of oil or pouring oil directly onto the teeth with a small oil container. And every 10
minutes drip oil into the small hole behind the tension assembly. Excessive wear can
occur if not oiled properly!
Outgoing
Air
Incoming Air
Air
Filter
Air Filter
Incoming Air
05
07
08
09
10
01
02
03
03
04
06
Item No. Part No. Description
01 82800401 1 - Tension nut
02 82800402 1 - Tension spring
03 82800405 2 - Upper blade guide
04 82800406 1 - Tension bolt
05 82800407 1 - Blade positioner
06 89600610 2 - Head screws and 2 washers (sold as a set)
07 82800409 1 - Crank spindle cover kit
(includes crank spindle, tension lock spring & excenter head)
08 82800411 1 - Small bearing
09 82800412 1 - Large bearing
10 82800414 1 - Crank spindle with fibergear
Premier recommends returning units
back to us for internal repairs.
5
Premier 4000c Clipper Head Parts

6
The Premier 4000s
High cutter speed under load, compact body
size and a powerful (high torque) motor are
specifically combined for high speed wool and
fiber removal. This machine often "wows"
those used to other motor-in-the-handpiece
shearing machines.
This machine is designed for high speed
whole—flock shearing. When high speed wool
removal is important and practical, maximum
speed and power is preferred.
Premier Shearer
2009 Improvements
• Internal roller bearings instead of bushings (less heat, less wear and greater longevity)
• Sleek, low pro le head design.
• Suspended fork system (reduces risk of stripping the gear drive or breaking comb teeth)
• No cutter retainer or retaining spring (both caused hassles and broke too readily).
• Improved tensioning concept (spring clip is more effective at retaining than
cupped washers)
• No more black plastic sides (these were prone to falling off and frustrating users)
• Tension column far superior in design, less small/individual parts to wear out.
Interchangeable Shearing Head
Fitting Comb & Cutter to Unit (See next page)
• Shear sheep, llamas & alpacas
• Prepare cattle for sale
• Block show cattle and sheep
Changing your Shearing Head
On the old style models, the 4000c clipping head
takes different and longer screws than the 4000s
shearing head. When changing heads, you must
change screws also. Screws included with purchase of
each head. If you have the old style—the holes will be
non-counterboard (or sunk in). New ones are already
counterboard or sunk into the holes and screws are
the same in both head
7
Holes that the pegs
at the back of the
forks go into.
Holes the conical
points go into.
Tips to  t comb & cutter to shear head
Setting correct
 nal tension
Turn the machine back over
and tighten the tension knob
down until notable resistance
is felt. Then screw it a 1/2 turn
more. Apply shearing oil to
the comb and cutter. Start the
motor. Tweak tension according
to blade heat/cutting ability.
Getting Started
Loosen the tension knob (shown
above) so the two forks on the
shear head can move freely.
Turn machine over. Loosen
the 2 screws. Slide on the comb.
Premier logo on the comb in
this position.
Tighten both screws just
enough to hold the comb in
place. (You will securely tighten
the screws later.)
Cutter attachment
Turn machine back over. Insert the cutter under
the forks. Make sure that the 2 conical points of the
fork’s outer fingers are embedded into the holes on
the outer 2 teeth of the cutter (above). Then screw
the tension knob down against the cutter until light
resistance is felt.
Setting correct
cutter “throw”
When checking the cutter lead,
also make sure that the outside
cutter tooth covers no more than
1/2 of the outside tooth of the comb.
Adjust the comb left or right to
achieve this while also maintaining
the correct lead setting of 1/8".
Securing the
comb position
Tighten the comb screws
very firmly with a proper
screwdriver. This cannot be done
with an ordinary screwdriver.
Once the comb screws are
tight the cutters can be replaced
by releasing the tension knob.
The cutter should be
positioned 1/8" behind
the comb bevel.
Setting correct lead
Notice the cutter’s position in relationship to the
comb. The cutter should be positioned 1/8" behind
the comb bevel. If not, turn the machine over and
loosen the comb screws (as explained in step 1)
slightly. Adjust comb as needed—by sliding the
comb forwards or backwards.
Tension
Knob
Tension
Knob
Comb
Screws
Fork
Comb attachment
Logo
1. 2. 3.
4. 5.
6. 7. 8.

1.
2.
9
8
Choosing the right cutter and
comb for each situation
Spitre Cutter
Standard 4 point cutter. Works on all 13, 17, 20, 22 and 23 tooth combs. Fits all 4 point
3 in. handpieces. Available in thick (4.0 mm) and thin (3.5 mm) versions. Thin pushes
through wool with less resistance.
• For use with most combs to shear sheep, goats, llamas and show cattle.
Storm Cutter
Specifically made for use with 9 tooth combs like our Apache. Tooth shape enables
cutter to run evenly across the comb.
Camelid Comb
13 teeth (every other one elevated). 3.65 mm thick, 77 mm wide. Leaves a cover of
6 – 10 mm of hair/wool. Twin beveled.
• Specialized comb for shearing llamas, alpacas, vincunas, guanacos and camels.
Spirit Comb
13 teeth. 3.2 mm thick, 77 mm wide. General purpose comb similar in function to
Heiniger’s Ovina, Sunbeam’s Pacer and Oster’s P1082.
• For less experienced shearers • For tagging and trimming sheep
Phantom R Comb
20 teeth. 3.4 mm thick, 77 mm wide. Has rounded tooth tips and shearer’s bevel to
reduce nicks and cuts. Similar to Oster 7112 Goat comb, Sullivan’s Beveled comb.
• For precision shaping of show animals • For shearing llamas/alpacas.
• For shearing goats & coarse wooled sheep
Phantom S Comb
20 teeth. 3.4 mm thick, 92 mm wide. Identical to Phantom R but with sharp tooth tips
and no shearer’s bevel. Similar in function to Oster 20 TBC, Sullivan's Blocking Comb. Do
not use for shearing against the skin.
• For precision shaping of show cattle and show sheep.
Apache Comb
9 teeth. 92 mm, medium bevels. 3.6 mm thick. Enable faster shearing with less effort.
Many professionals prefer them. Leaves extra wool for protection from cold or sun. Similar
in function to Super 9 or Mach 9.
• For shearing range ewes, feeder lambs and farm ocks in winter.
Blackhawk 92 Comb
13 teeth with only one side flared. Medium to long bevels, 92 mm wide, 3.3 mm thick.
• For shearing farm and range ocks • For blocking show sheep
Blackhawk 94 Comb
13 teeth with both sides flared. Long bevels, 94 mm wide, 3.1 mm thick.
• For blocking show sheep • For shearing ne wooled sheep
• For shearing medium wooled sheep with sticky/tight eeces.
Heiniger’s Mohair Comb
17 teeth. 3.5 mm thick, 90 mm wide. Extra teeth reduces risk of nicks and leaves
smoother results. Perfectly fits the needs of shearing Angora goats.
• Preferred by some for shearing Angora goats, llamas and alpacas.
Oil Points (see diagram at right)
1. Oil tips of the upper comb and
lower cutter with plenty of oil—
frequently.
2. Oil Round Drive. Apply oil into
hole labeled oil on the blue
plastic cover.
• Purpose? To reduce wear, reduce heat build-up and reduce the load on the motor.
• Where should the oil be placed? Lubricate all points on head, combs and cutters
before starting the shearing machine and also in between each shearing. 3 – 5 drops
on the top of the combs and cutters at the front of the head (2 above). Every 10
minutes (every third blade lubrication), Add 1 – 2 drops into the hole labeled oil on
the blue plastic cover. An oil can with long nozzle works well.
• What type of oil should be used? We supply #10 White Clipping Oil because
it is thick enough to lubricate, thin enough not to collect dirt and hair fibers and
clear—thus reducing the risk of oil stains on the animal. If you wish to use another
oil, be careful not to use oil that is too thick. Any light weight motor oil will work. If
you’re an inexperienced shearer and taking more time to shear each sheep, lubricate
more often.
• What about spray-on blade coolants? They accelerate evaporation from the
blade surfaces and thus do cool the blades more rapidly. However, all blade coolants
are also excellent solvents—that remove the oil from the blades at the same time.
So, if you use a coolant, immediately re-oil after the solvent/coolant has evaporated
and before you continue shearing. You also need to check the tension of the blades.
If they are becoming hot, the tension is probably too tight and/or the blades need
more frequent lubrication with the correct oil. If blades are hot while running,
tension may be too tight or combs and cutters may be dull.
Shearing Machine Lubrication

01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
13
14
12
11
10
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Oil
11
Item No. Part No. Description
01 82900401 1 - Tension nut
02 82900402 1 - Sliding sleeve
03 82900403 1 - Tension lock spring
04 82900404 1 - Lid bushing
05 82900405 1 - Shearing head (without accessories)
06 82900406 1 - Plastic head cover
07 82900407 1 - Head cover screw (2 required)
08 82900408 1 - Fork guide bracket
09 82900409 1 - Fork plate
10 82900410 1 - Fork finger (right)
11 82900411 1 - Fork finger (left)
12 82900412 1 - Comb screw
13 82900413 1 - Fulcrum lock nut
14 82900414 1 - Countersunk head screw
15 82900415 1 - Toothed washer
16 82900416 1 - Fulcrum post screw
17 82900417 1 - Tension spring plate
18 82900418 1 - Crank roller
19 82900419 1 - Crank spindle shaft
20 82900420 1 - Bearing
21 82900422 1 - Spindle hub with fibergear
22 89600610 2 - Head screws and 2 washers (sold as a set)
4000s Shearing Head Parts
Premier recommends returning units
back to us for internal motor repairs.
Outgoing Air
10
Important Warnings
Ventilated Motors:
Do not attempt to connect this motor to any Premier shear head or clipper head
acquired by yourself or your dealer before June 20, 2003.
If you do the motor will overheat and destroy the internal windings.
Why? The air from this motor is driven forward and out through the heads. This is a
new feature that results in cooler operating temperatures (up to 20 degrees less) of heads,
blades, combs and cutters. However, for this to occur the shear head or clipper head is
designed to enable the air to exit through the head. Older clipper heads can easily be
changed to allow this by knocking out the 2 black plastic kidney-shaped plugs on either
side of the drive shaft.
Shear heads supplied before June 20, 2003 will need to be sent back to
Premier for retro tting before they can be  tted to this motor.
Shearing Machine Warning:
Do not switch this machine on unless the 4 point cutter is properly in place and
tensioned against the comb. As a guide, screw the tension knob down against the cutter
until resistance is felt, making sure that the fork fingers are tight against the cutter. Then
screw it another 1/2 turn further before switching the machine on.
Incoming
Air
Air Filter
Air Filter
Incoming Air

19
17
18
Step 5
Step 4
16
14
15
6 8
7
Step 2
9
10
11
12
13
Step 3
13
4. Using left hand apply pressure to the left stifle joint to make sheep hold leg straight out.
Note right front leg of sheep has dropped between shearer’s legs. Also shearer should
move his right leg back a few inches to help turn sheep.
Drop wrist to position the comb to enter wool on top of tail and shear forward along
backbone cleaning all wool from tail.
5. Keep comb points on the skin until they reach the base of the ears. Now move your left
foot through first and bring your right foot between the sheep’s hind legs.
Note: Backbone shown as—
On all sheep one full comb must be shorn over the backbone as in blow 15.
An extra blow (16) will be needed for long wools.
2. Blow 7 may have to be repeated to ensure a clean crutch. Be careful to avoid cutting
teats which should be covered with the fingers.
3. Blow 10, 11 and 12 must finish in line on the near side of the backbone. Your right knee
should be in front of the brisket and your foot should move back.
First stroke out inside of right back leg.
Second stroke starts on the toe and goes up and back around the udder.
BELLY
27
28
26
25
23
22
23
34
33
32
31
30 10 11 12
13
14
BELLY
37 36
38
29404142
45
44
43
35
15
48
47
46
1
5
4
3
2
Step 1b - The Bowen Belly
Recommended for
large or
full-wooled sheep.
1
4
2
3
Step 1a - The Spear Belly
12
Shearing Pattern - Key points to eliminate second cuts
• Keep bottom tooth on the skin • Shear in position
• Start and nish each blow on the skin • Shear to a pattern
Six Key Points of Good Shearing
1. Control of the sheep—get right down over the sheep and “become part of it.”
2. Positive hand—know exactly where the handpiece has to go; don’t poke, be
positive with all blows.
3. Good wrist—must be flexible and supple to ensure comb points stay on the skin.
4. Return action—must be fast, close to the sheep and taken no further back than the
start of the next blow; wasted inches are wasted effort.
5. Left hand—use it confidently to prepare the way for the handpiece.
6. Rhythm and timing—develop a rhythm so the shearing of each section runs
smoothly into the next.
1. Support sheep firmly between your knees. Rest sheep’s foreleg on your left side to
tighten skin on belly. Make first stroke of the handpiece straight down on right side of
brisket to the open flank area. Make the second stroke on the left side of brisket down
under left front leg. Follow strokes three and four to the left flank area.
Note: That sheep’s left front leg is held by shearer’s left wrist, leaving his hand free to tighten
skin on the belly area.
Shearing Instructions

Step 6
21
20
Step 7
22
23
Step 8
24
25
Step 9
26
27
Step 10
28
29
Step 11
30
31
32
33
14
6. Stretch the head back with your left hand to allow blow 21 to finish under the jaw. Left
foot close to sheep’s hip, right foot in crotch between legs.
7. Turn sheep’s head so the nose is up and the right side against leg. Hold body firmly
between knees. Left hand is shifted toward nose as strokes are completed along jaw.
8. Blow 24 should clear to the far ear. On very woolly sheep, blow 23 continues over near the
eye and nose. Roll the sheep’s head around your knee.
Note: The forward position of the left foot.
9. Press your right knee into the sheep’s brisket to gain greater control. Tuck your right
foot into the tail. Use left hand to stretch skin on shoulder, start stroke at knee shearing
upward to clean tags on front of shoulder.
10. Blow 29 clears the inside of the leg.
11. Bend low over the sheep and keep your right shoulder well down. Lay sheep on
its back, keep right foot between sheep’s hind legs, left foot under right shoulder as
shown, force left foreleg toward sheep’s head to stretch skin on side.
36
37
Step 13
38
39
40
Step 14
42
41
Step 15
45
43
44
Step 16
48
47
46
34
35
Step 12
15
15. These blows are angled to cross the wrinkles. Straighten your legs. Push down on
point of shoulder with palm of hand. At the same time pull skin up with finger to clean
tags under front leg. On final stroke turn handpiece under front leg and shear to toe.
16. The final step is to close your fingers on the loose flank skin and roll your fist on to
the firm part of the leg. Using a full comb, make remaining strokes at same angle to
toe. With sheep in position, hold skin of right flank in left and apply pressure to stifle
joint. Caution: slide comb at angle around ham string to avoid accidental cutting. Hold
sheep’s head between left arm and right leg moving left foot back so sheep settles
down on its side and moving right foot forward to allow more reach for last strokes.
Left foot keeps sheep’s shoulder and feet off floor.
12. Blows 34 and 35 must be parallel to the backbone. Lean back on your left leg. On
reaching backbone make sure sheep tail is behind your right foot. Your left leg is
under sheep’s shoulder, with your left foot across sheep to give leverage. Apply
downward pressure to sheep’s head with your left hand to “roll“ sheep up. Shear two
strokes over backbone to save time on “last side.” Avoid standing on or tearing fleece
when swinging right leg out to shear “last side.”
13. Control the head with your knees using your fingers under the jaw to bring the sheep
up. After clearing wool from ear and face, shear straight down to point of shoulder,
using left hand to straighten wrinkles. Allow sheep’s right foreleg to come forward
after the second blow.
14. Keep the shoulder well bowed out with your knees.

Maintenance
It is important to keep plug and cable clean, dry and in good order. The motor and drive
gears will give years of trouble-free use if maintained and serviced regularly. Do the
following steps at the end of each season, or more regularly if used extensively.
• Air lter—the filter should be removed and meticulously cleaned with a soft brush
and soapy water (make sure the filter is dry before placing it back on the machine)
after each animal is clipped to ensure efficient running of the motor. If this maintenance
is ignored, overheating of motor will occur. Possible irreversible damage or inefficient clipping
will result. Warning: Do not run the clipper or shear with the filter removed! All maintenance
should be carried out with the unit switched off and removed from 110 v power supply.
• Grease—the internal gear system was pre-greased at the factory. Regreasing is rarely
necessary. (Premier’s service technicians tell us that people often put too much grease
in the gears of other clippers or shearers.)
Troubleshooting
Failure to cut
• Blades may be dull—resharpen.
• Dirt or ber between the blades—remove blades; wipe cutting surfaces clean; ret
blades and oil.
Low power
• Voltage may be low—use shorter or larger (in wire gauge) extension cord. Move
animals closer to the power point.
• Motor may be worn or clogged with dirt and hair—send to qualied technician to
examine and replace if necessary.
Overheating of motor
• Air lter may be plugged with ber or dirt—remove, wash, dry and replace.
• Blades tension may be too tight—reset tension knob to 2.5 turns less than fully tight.
• Blades have not been oiled often enough—lubricate as instructed.
Motor won’t start
• Tension bolt/spring may have been wound too tight—check and adjust to 2.5 turns
back from fully tight.
• Motor’s 110 volt AC power cord may be damaged internally (e.g. from animals stepping
on it)—examine cord carefully. Replace if damaged.
Repair
Send the clipper/shearer to a qualified technician. Premier is the ultimate repair shop
for repairing all clippers/shearers that we sell. Our dealers are also developing the skills
and inventorying parts. Call us for details.
Warranty
Defective parts and workmanship are repaired free of charge for up to 3 years on the
4000 clipper and shearer from the original date of purchase. Does not apply to obvious
abuse (e.g. damage from dropping, exposure to chemicals, immersion in water), lack of
maintenance and/or broken, dull or rusted blades.
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Storing the Clipper/Shearer, Blades, Combs & Cutters
• Remove the blades/combs/cutters from the clipper or shearer.
• Always clean blades/combs/cutters immediately after use by using a small brush or
blowing off any excess dirt or hair. Cover them with oil to reduce the risk of rust. High
carbon steel clipper blades will rust overnight. Rust destroys both the edge and the
polished surface of the blades.
• Store both clipper/shearer and blades/combs/cutters away from solvents, chemicals
and moisture. Never leave them where they can be damaged by accidental impact. We
offer a blade box that has a fitted foam piece for maximum protection of blades and a
comb/cutter box that comes with spun fitted polyester layers to keep combs/cutters
separate and a case for the clippers.
Sharpening Blades, Combs & Cutters
• To reproduce the quality of the cutting edge on the clipper blades that came from the
factory, a lapping machine must be used. Most other methods are, in our experience,
inferior to one degree or another. In addition to producing a cutting edge that won’t
last very long, some methods can permanently damage the blades. The most common
“culprit” is using the large high speed grinding wheels that are used to sharpen
cutters and combs.
• Who uses lapping machines and who does not? Obviously, Premier does and you can
ship them to us. Other firms also use systems/machines that work well.
Do’s and don’ts for shipping blades to Premier (and others).
1. Do include payment (COD, credit card or check), name, return address, daytime
phone number and specie of animal for which the blades will be used. If paying by
check, please include your social security number or your order will be delayed.
2. Do keep clipping blade sets as pairs in the box.
3. Don’t allow the blades/combs/cutters to rattle around in the box.
4. Do wrap them in paper or wool felt to protect them.
5. Do clean in soapy water and cover them lightly with oil or WD40™before shipping.
Premier adds a surcharge for cleaning blades/combs/cutters that are too dirty.
6. Do ship dry blades. Blades must be thoroughly dry (no water) before shipping.
7. Don’t use so much grease or oil that it soaks up the box.
Warning! Clipper blades/cutters/combs that have been sharpened by
inferior methods or inexperienced people may be damaged to such an
extent that they can never be restored to a satisfactory cutting capability.
The same is true of blades that have become too heavily pitted by rust.
Send blades to:
PREMIER SUPPLIES
2031 300th Street
Washington, IA 52353
Safety Issues
• The motor is double-insulated. Do not connect any wire to the E or earth pin of 3-pin
plugs. Wires in the 110 leadout are color coded: White = neutral & Black = live
• Before each season, it’s wise to have the clipper/shearer inspected by a qualied agent.
• Use the clipper/shearer only at the correct 110v AC voltage.
• Always disconnect the clipper/shearer from power supply before tting blades or
dismantling the clipper/shearer.
Power Supply
Use only 110 – 120 AC voltage. Avoid using extension cord(s) that are either too long
and/or too small (in wire gauge). Should either situation occur, the voltage actually
available to the motor may be too low to drive it effectively and efficiently—resulting in
low power, overheating of the motor and potential motor damage.