Pyroclassic Fires IV User manual

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Model: Pyroclassic® IV Wood Burner (ULEB)
Pyroclassic fires are unique and work differently from other wood burners.
Please take your time to read through these instructions to maximise the benefits of
your new Pyroclassic®Ultra Low Emission Burner
Save these instructions for future reference.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Pyroclassic®fires have been in production for more than 30 years. From experience, along with
other New Zealand manufacturers, most issues relating to obtaining maximum efficiencies come
from loading the fire with wet wood (more than 25% moisture content).
The New Zealand Home Heating Association report that as much as 95% of complaints received
are a result of poor fuel.
We strongly suggest you read the 'Firewood' section in this booklet.

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PYROCLASSIC®IV ULEB OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
FUEL TYPE: WOOD LOGS ONLY
These units are capable of continuous operation. Please use recommended fuels only.
Maximum fuel load is 7kg - DO NOT EXCEED
This appliance is NOT suitable for use in a shared flue.
This appliance should NOT be operated with the loading door open.
WARNING: The appliance is designed to become hot during operation, care should be taken to avoid contact with
external surfaces.
The Pyroclassic IV has been tested to the following standards: AS/NZS4012:2014 * AS/NZS4013:2014 * AS/NZS2918:2001
Environment Canterbury Authorisation Numbers: 121121 (LEB dry) 121122 (LEB wet) 194576 (ULEB Dry)
Minimum safe distances from unprotected combustible materials:
Back - 350mm, Side - 480mm (See technical specifications sheet on protection measures).
The appliance is not suitable for use in a shared flue system and should not be operated in a room
with another combustion heater.
This appliance has not been tested as an Ultra Low Emission Burner with a wetback fitted
WARNING: There must not be an extractor fan in the same room or space as the appliance as it may
cause the stove to emit fumes into the room.
IMPORTANT AND USEFUL INFORMATION
Thank you for purchasing a Pyroclassic®freestanding wood fire. At Pyroclassic Fires, we take pride in
manufacturing this high quality, ultra-low emission fire which has enjoyed over 30 years of proven reliability and
high efficiency .
WARNING:
This appliance should only be installed by a trained and qualified installer.
The appliance and flue system must be installed in accordance with AS/NZS 2918 and the appropriate
requirements of relevant building codes.
Appliances installed in accordance with this standard shall comply with the requirements of local standards
where required by the regulatory authority. It shall display compliance tag reading “Tested to AS/NZS 4013”
Any modification of the appliance that has not been approved in writing by the testing authority is in breach
of the approval granted for compliance with local tested standards.
Cracked or broken door glass and broken components e.g. ceramic, may render the installation unsafe.
Maintain a clearance of at least 1m between the front of the fire and building structure or any other
substantial permanent combustible object.

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To help you obtain all the benefits the Pyroclassic®offers, we ask you to ensure the
following four important steps are performed:
1. Correctly complete your warranty card and return it to us either in person at our factory, or by mailing to:
Pyroclassic Fires Ltd
PO Box 14057
Hastings, 4159
New Zealand
or email to: [e-mail]
2. The wood you use in the Pyroclassic®fire should be good quality, dry wood with a moisture content of 25%
or less, 12% - 18% is ideal for clean, efficient heat. Digital moisture meters are available for purchase and
recommended to test your wood fuel.
3. Please read this operating manual thoroughly as even individuals who have significant experience with
wood fires will learn from this .
4. Before the start of the winter season, follow this maintenance checklist on your fire:
Have the flue professionally swept using a suitable sized brush.
Ensure the door seals sufficiently all the way around.
Ensure the door spindle lines up with the hole in the front plate when the door closes and that it is
lubricated with grease.
Inspect the air tubes and load limiter assembly to ensure there are no cracks/holes that have appeared.
If so, depending on the amount of wear, consider getting replacement air tubes installed.
Remove the front panel and ensure the three primary air inlets are clear.
Make sure the turboslide is sealing flush against the front plate of the fire by looking down the side of
the decorative panel.
RE-USABLE FIRE STARTERS
The pack of two re-usable fire starters supplied with the fire should be used as follows:
Soak the firestarters in methylated spirits (meths) in a screw top jar. They soak up the meths like a sponge, turning
purple. Use the firestarters in the fire just like you would with single use firestarters.
After loading your starting wood (4 pieces around 300mm long totalling around 1.2kg) first , then kindling (14-16 pieces
totalling about 1kg) on top in a grid pattern, place the soaked firestarters on top of the kindling around the center of the
firebox. When you re-load the fire, you can retrieve the firestarters with tongs and place them somewhere safe to cool –
away from children and animals! Of course, if the firestarters are still burning leave them in the fire until they are out.
Let the firestarters cool and then, when COLD, simply place back into the jar of meths for future use.
Use suitable length tongs to place firestarters into the fire and to retrieve them.
If you forget to retrieve the firestarters don’t worry as they will still be there, but continually leaving it in the fire will
result in it eventually disappearing to nothing –like a piece of soap. By retrieving them from the fire early, they should
last for quite a long time.
New firestarters can be purchased from Pyroclassic Fires Ltd or your local dealer.
WARNING:
NEVER soak a hot firestarter in meths.
NEVER leave the meths jar near the fire.
NEVER ADD SPIRIT TO A HOT CUBE
NEVER SQUIRT SPIRIT OR ANY LIQUID FUELS DIRECTLY INTO THE FIREBOX
Please note: It is not a requirement to use the Re-usable firelighters, single use firelighters may also be used however you
may need more than two.

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DIGITAL MOISTURE METER
The moisture meter is intended to be used regularly throughout the drying process, from
when your wood fuel is delivered, right through to just before burning it. It measures the
moisture content (%) in wood and is an essential tool as a fire owner. You MUST burn dry
wood for your Pyroclassic fire to operate effectively. Poor quality, wet wood is the most
common cause of issues with all wood fires and flue systems.
WARRANTY FORMS
Please ensure both copies of your warranty paperwork have been completed. Include your Pyroclassic Fires retailer, fire
installer, wetback installer/plumber (if applicable) and personal contact details. Keep one copy for your records and
return one copy to:
Pyroclassic Fires Ltd
PO Box 14057
Hastings, 4159
New Zealand
or email to: [e-mail]
FIREWOOD
Any wood burner that is not operating correctly creates high emissions and will not heat your home properly. Simple
methods to ensure clean burning and efficient heating are:
Stock up on your wood fuel at least 6-12 months before winter to allow the wood to air dry. Stack wood loosely in a
dry place so air can pass freely through the pile.
Burn dry, well-seasoned wood. Check your wood with the moisture meter supplied as longer drying times may be
necessary.
The ideal size of wood for a Pyroclassic IV is from 25mm-100mm (1” - 4”) in diameter, cut into lengths of around
300mm (12”). Shorter pieces are less convenient and less efficient to use. Let your wood merchant know what you
want for your money.
Do not burn wet or green wood, plastic, domestic refuse, painted or chemically treated wood, plywood, driftwood,
particle board or coal in your Pyroclassic® as they will damage your fire and cause higher emissions of unburnt
particles harmful to our environment.
Burn small, hot fires near the back of the fire chamber.
CAUTION:
THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS OR PLACE THESE IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE WHEN IT IS
OPERATING.
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN THE HEATER INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
THERE SHOULD BE NO UNAUTHORIZED MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE.
REPLACEMENT PARTS MUST BE GENUINE PYROCLASSIC FIRES PARTS, OR THOSE RECOMMENDED BY THE
MANUFACTURER.
*Please see Pyroclassic Fires Ltd warranty document for more detailed information.

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OPERATING, USE AND MAINTENANCE
LIGHTING THE PYROCLASSIC IV FROM COLD
You will need an initial fuel load of 4 pieces of around 300mm (280mm-320mm) long totalling around 1.2kg plus 14-16
pieces of kindling around 300mm long totalling about 1kg. Two Intermediate loads of 2 pieces totalling around a 1.3kg
each pair and following on with main loads of 3 pieces totalling around 2.4kg
1. Soak the re-usable fire starters in methylated spirits.
2. Slide the turboslide to the far right or far left position.
3. Leaving a clear space in front of the air inlet hole, place four small logs (1.2kg) lengthways in the fire chamber then
stack a generous quantity (1kg) of DRY kindling on top in a lattice construction. e.g. two across then five lengthways,
three across and five or six lengthways on top. The height of this stack will be just under the load limiter.
4. Place a pair of soaked (in methylated spirits) fire starters on top of the kindling midway back and side by side then
light. Close the door checking that the turboslide is open to one side.
5. Once the fire is well established and there are almost no visible flames (around 35-40min), you will have a good bed
of hot embers to place your next two pieces of intermediate wood on (1.3kg). Keep the turboslide open at this stage.
6. Repeat step 5. (another 35min or so) and after 10 minutes of the new load you can move the turboslide to the central
position.
7. When the flames have died down again (around 30-35min), Your fire will be ready for a main fuel load. Load three
larger pieces (total around 2.4kg). When opening the door to load more wood, slide the turboslide to the far left or
right open position and once the new load of fuel is well lit, return it to the middle position.
8. Each time when the flames have subsided again you can add more main loads of fuel. The time between loads will
vary depending on the density of your wood fuel. If the ember bed has built up much above the height of the bottom
of the door, allow more time between loads.
The fire is now up to its operating temperature and refuelling will not be necessary for at least 45min to an hour but you
could leave it considerably longer and then refuel the fire onto a low fire bed.
An important reminder; the fire will not burn correctly if you try starting fires with green or wet wood. The only fuel
authorised for use with this appliance within Urban Clean Air Sheds and Smoke Control Zones is well-seasoned wood with
a moisture content of 25% or less, 12-18% is ideal.
REFUELLING ONTO A LOW FIREBED
The wood fuel inside a Pyroclassic fire burns best on a bed of ash and hot coals. Refueling must be carried out onto a
sufficient quantity of glowing embers so the new fuel load will ignite. With the turboslide open, add suitable kindling if
necessary and intermediate sized pieces, close the door and allow the fire to burn with a bright flame for a while until the
turboslide is not needed. Please note that if a new fuel load is left without suitable air for ignition then a buildup of
unburnt volatile gases can occur. This puts stress on the unit, which can lead to an internal explosion when these gases do
combust. Always ensure adequate air via the turboslide for ignition and combustion of fuel. If there is insufficient burning
material in the fire-bed to light new fuel, excessive smoke emission can occur, so you must light the fire as from cold.

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REFUELING and using the PYROCLASSIC CURVED ASH RAKE
Refueling should take place only once the flames have died down (almost no visible flames). Use the ember rake if
necessary to evenly distribute the hot embers and ash along the base of the fire chamber, ensuring there is enough hot
ember at the front to provide adequate ignition to the fresh fuel load. Load the fuel so one end of each log is close to the
back wall of the firebox. If you keep your fire burning under the air tubes, this will ensure the maximum amount of heat is
captured within the ceramic cylinder.
Please Note: Only use Pyroclassic Fires tools as using others may cause damage to the cylinder. Always take care not to
heavily impact the ceramic surface.
CONTINUOUS AND OVERNIGHT OPERATION
The Pyroclassic® IV acts as a heat store and small, hot fires store surplus heat in the ceramic cylinder. The unit then
continues heating your home like an electric night storage heater. There are a few simple steps to follow to ensure your
fire burns overnight with a solid ember bed for relighting the next morning. Firstly, make sure you have a hot, glowing
ember bed all the way to the back of the firebox. Load the firebox with larger logs approximately 30 minutes before you
retire. Open the turboslide to boost the air supply to the fresh fuel load if necessary. When hot, bright flames are well
established, close the turboslide. In the morning, rake hot embers out of the ash to the front of the firebox. Remember to
keep the turboslide hole clear to allow air in to rekindle the fire. Add kindling and a few larger pieces on top. With the
turboslide open, you should have a roaring fire in less than 10 minutes. You may not be able to maintain an overnight fire
with softer wood fuel.
THE PYROCLASSIC IS SELF-REGULATING.
The vigorous fire towards the front of the chamber automatically slows down as the burning advances towards the back
of the fire chamber. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the chamber. The Pyroclassic® is designed
to save on firewood and keep emission levels to a minimum by storing surplus heat in the cylinder, which normally goes
up the flue. This heat is released into the room even when the fire is low at the end of each burn cycle.
USE OF TURBOSLIDE
The turboslide covers a hole that allows start up air to enter quickly into the chamber to
ignite your fire. To open the hole, move the turboslide to the left or right. When your fire is
well established (40 –60 minutes depending on wood type), slide the turboslide back into
the middle position. Always keep a small area around the very front of the fire chamber free
of ash and embers so the hole is clear and the turboslide can work effectively. Simply push
back the build-up a little with the Pyroclassic curved ash rake.
Please note: The turboslide is to be used only for the initial start-up of fires and to help ignite
fresh fuel if required. By following these instructions, you will enjoy low emissions, high
thermal efficiency and conserve your wood supply. Not following these instructions can
result in higher emissions, damage to the air tubes inside the fire chamber and accelerated
discolouration of your flue pipes.
LOADING FIREWOOD
Do NOT try and insert wood sideways. The orientation of the Pyroclassic’s unique fire chamber ensures you can only
insert firewood lengthwise. Burning wood end to end and along the grain like this is far more efficient than across the
grain.

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DOOR/DOORKNOB
DO NOT run the fire with the door open. It will never reach the correct operating temperature, and this can be very
dangerous.
The door seals with little pressure so please do not overtighten or it may be hard to open when the unit is hot. The door
knob is a great indicator of what is going on inside your fire so if you find the door knob is too hot when you go to refuel,
you are probably trying to refuel to early. Overtightening the door knob can also cause damage to the door gasket and
fixing screws.
If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring or is getting loose, you are probably burning your fire too close to
the door, overtightening the door knob and/or refueling the fire too early. Try closing the turboslide a little sooner and let
the fire burn down more before reloading again.
Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand when it is open as this can cause the door to move. If your door does
become misaligned, loosen the bottom bolt of the hinge bar, slightly and lift the door back into the correct position then
retighten the bolt.
AIR INLETS
Do not block any fixed air inlets as this will affect the fire’s performance and may cause permanent damage.
GREASING THE DOORKNOB SPINDLE
A small amount of graphite grease should be applied to the spindle of the doorknob, usually twice a year is sufficient.
Ashes from the fire have a gritty texture and over time this can cause wear on the doorknob spindle. Using a matchstick
or cocktail stick, lubricate the groove in the first thread. Use the door grease sparingly as too much will melt and dribble,
causing an unsightly stain. Remove any excess before relighting the unit.
CLEANING THE DOOR GLASS
The air wash over the door should keep the glass clean. A dirty glass is a sign of a fire that is not getting hot enough,
normally caused by trying to burn unseasoned or unsuitable wood. If your door glass needs cleaning, scrunch up two
pieces of damp newspaper, dip one in cold fire ashes and rub over the inside of the glass. Use the other to rub over the
glass to remove the dirt from the ash. Get into the habit of cleaning it regularly as this will maintain the glass and prevent
ashes from fusing. Clean the glass when it is cooler, such as in the morning before rekindling the fire. If your fire is
operating correctly, your door glass should have a light, white cloudy appearance.
Please note: This appliance should not be operated with a cracked glass.
FLUE CLEANING/CHIMNEY SWEEPS
The Pyroclassic flue will only clog up if you burn wet wood, fuel with an inadequate air supply, or if the fire chamber does
not reach normal operating temperature. We recommend your flue be swept at least once a year, or more frequently if
necessary (i.e. if you notice smoke coming out of the open door). Pyroclassic fires are different from other wood fires and
should be swept from the top down into a tray or bag at the bottom of the flue; if excess buildup has occurred then it
may be necessary to remove the top plate from the fire to empty out the top chamber. Do not allow the chimney sweep
to dismantle the flue or take the cooktop off unless they are sure they know what they are doing.
Please ensure whoever is sweeping your flue has watched our ‘How to clean the flue of a Pyroclassic fire’ video online at
http://www.pyroclassic.co.nz/resources/videos/
Please note: Before relighting the fire after a prolonged shutdown, check the flue for any blockages, such as birds nesting
in the chimney.
COOKING ON THE PYROCLASSIC
The top plate on the Pyroclassic can be used as a cooking surface directly as a hob. Anything you would normally cook on
your conventional appliance can be cooked on the Pyroclassic and with the right amount of trial and experimentation we
hope you will enjoy this and further save on resources.
Note; There is a risk to the cosmetic finish of the product if used as a cooktop due to the chance or spills etc. this is to be
expected and most often can be cleaned up by having a hot bright fire and burning off any deposits from the top plate.

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LIGHTING YOUR FIRST FIRE
Do not be alarmed if your fire does not perform to your expectations the first time it is lit from new. It can take several
fires to fully cure the ceramic cylinder and build up an ash bed before full performance can be achieved. You may even
notice a small amount of moisture appear under your fire on the hearth, this is completely normal.
Allow adequate ventilation when you light your fire for the first time as smoke and fumes are released as the special heat-
resistant paint cures. This will not last long and should not happen again.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If your query is not listed below, visit the ‘Help Centre’ at www.pyroclassic.co.nz.
SLOW START-UP
Open the turboslide by moving it to either the left or right position.
Check the start-up hole (behind the turboslide, inside the chamber) is free of ash and char and scrape back any build-
up.
Check for air leakage around the cooktop, around the flue collar, and in the flue pipe joints. Air bypassing the fire
chamber reduces draft. Repair air leaks.
This could be from using large or wet logs or loading fuel on too few hot coals. Use dry kindling to start the fire
quickly. Do not use wet fuel (see the Firewood section in this booklet for more information).
Insufficient draft: Review chimney construction and investigate air pressure levels in the home.
Warm, humid conditions outside or an inversion layer: Wait until the flue pipe is hot.
DENSE SMOKE
This is likely caused from the burning of plastic materials, fire retardant treated wood or high resin content wet wood.
Burn only well-seasoned wood and ensure it is positioned lengthwise in the cylinder.
EARLY MORNING PALE BLUE SMOKE
This is caused by burning off small creosote deposits formed by premature banking of the fire the night before.
SMOKE ENTERING THE ROOM
Negative pressure in the room, possibly caused by a household electric exhaust fan or severe pressure difference in a
windstorm: Open a window to equalise the pressure.
Severe down draft due to surrounding structures, hills, trees or roof layout. If you think your home is suffering from
down draft, download the troubleshooting info sheet from our website –www.pyroclassic.co.nz.
Flue is clogged: Clear the obstruction and investigate the cause.
GASES & SMOKE ENTERING THE ROOM WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED
The most common cause of this issue is a clogged flue. Get a sweep in to clean your flue, ensuring whoever is
sweeping the flue has watched the Flue Cleaning help video online at
http://www.pyroclassic.co.nz/resources/videos/
Opening the door during the maximum degassing of fuel. Wait until the flames disappear.
This can also be indicative of a very cold flue temperature. Allow the initial startup fire to warm the flue pipes.
HIGH FUEL CONSUMPTION
Loading door is not airtight: Check the gasket.
Incorrect operation: The Pyroclassic is a heat store, so try adding logs less often and burn the fuel further back in the
fire chamber.
You might be leaving the turboslide open for longer periods than intended. The turboslide should only be used when
lighting and establishing the fire and for igniting a new fuel load.
High flue draw: investigate cause and consider an H type cowl if consumption is excessive.

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TROUBLESHOOTING
DOORKNOB LOOSE?
The expected lifespan of a doorknob is somewhere between 4 - 10 years depending on how the fire is operated. There
are two typical causes that lead to premature failure of the doorknob:
1. Charring on the back of the knob due to high levels of concentrated heat from over-firing. Over-firing can occur when
the turboslide is left open too long or is held off the face of the starting air hole with ash or embers. Over-firing can
also occur when the door is not sealing due to a damaged rope seal or glass gasket.
2. The door being overtightened when it is closed which in turn leads to it being very tight to open once the fire is hot.
Continued overtightening causes the screws to weaken and then come loose and break away from their fixings.
To avoid these issues and extend the lifespan of the doorknob, keep a clear area of approximately 10cm in the front of
the fire chamber and maintain your fire underneath the air tubes. This will give you the additional benefit of letting the
cylinder absorb the maximum amount of heat from your fuel load. Only turn the door knob enough for the rope to make
light contact between the seal and the front plate. Further cranking of the door knob will result in the weakening of the
screws holding the door knob on.
CRACKS IN THE FIRE CHAMBER
Due to the fire chamber being cast as a one-piece cylinder it goes through some expansion and contraction every time it
is heat cycled and this results in different levels of cracking. This is just the cylinder relieving its inert tension and has no
effect on the operation, performance, or useful life of the unit. For more information on this topic, watch our ‘Why are
there cracks in my cylinder? video, online at http://www.pyroclassic.co.nz/resources/videos/
AVOIDING BACK PUFFING OR MINOR GAS EXPLOSIONS
Hot embers should be brought forward to ensure ignition starts at the front of the new fuel load. Use the ash rake as
per the operating instructions on page 8 of this booklet.
Turboslide not opened or blocked after reloading large logs onto a small ember bed. A good bed of coals is needed to
ensure the ignition of a fresh fuel load and use of the turboslide is necessary to provide extra air until the flames are
well established.
Wood fuel which is too wet for burning. Split a large log and spike the center with a moisture meter. Moisture
content should be less than 25%, ideally 12% - 18%.
An explosive substance such as a battery or aerosol container loaded into the fire chamber. This is VERY dangerous,
do NOT do this.
DOOR LOCK HARD TO OPERATE
Apply a small amount of high temperature grease to the thread as per instructions on page 9. Grease with graphite or
molybdenum disulphide only.
You may be overtightening the door spindle thread. The door on a Pyroclassic seals with minimum pressure. Do not
overtighten this door as this will shorten the life of the handle and gasket.
ASH SPILLS & DE-ASHING
Make sure you have a metal (non-combustible) ash container with a lid and store it outside on concrete or bare ground.
Use the Pyroclassic shovel to empty the fire chamber when it is cool. Be careful as ash almost always contains some hot
ember. Never use a vacuum cleaner. Pot ash can be great for your garden if your soils are acidic. Use only ash from a
cooled fire which used good quality wood.
SAFETY NOTES
FIRES CAN BE DANGEROUS
Always use a fireguard in the presence of children, the elderly or the infirm. In New Zealand and Australia, AS/NZS
2918:2001 guidelines should be followed. In the UK the fireguard should be manufactured in accordance with BS 6539 –
Fireguards for use with solid fuel appliances.

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OVERFIRING
It is almost impossible to over-fire your Pyroclassic fire beyond its design capacity as the firebox will withstand
temperatures in excess of 1500oC. However, if any part of the unit starts to glow red, ensure the turboslide is closed and
allow the fire to die down. You will be unable to refuel it during this period due to high temperatures around the loading
door.
FUME EMISSION
If properly installed and operated, this appliance will not emit fumes. Persistent fume emission must not be tolerated as it
indicates a problem and the following actions must be taken:
Open doors and windows to ventilate the room.
Let the fire die out or safely remove and dispose of the fuel in the appliance.
Check the chimney for blockage and clean if required.
If necessary, seek professional advice.
IN THE EVENT OF A FLUE/CHIMNEY FIRE
Raise the alarm and let others in the house know.
Call the relevant emergency services.
Move furniture and rugs away from the appliance if possible.
Get out.
Thank you for purchasing a Pyroclassic fire, we hope it fulfils all your expectations and more!
Manufactured by:
Pyroclassic Fires Ltd
917 Karamu Road North
Hastings
Hawkes Bay 4122
New Zealand
Ph.+64 (0)6 877 0175
Fx.+64 (0)6 877 7501
[e-mail]
www.pyroclassic.co.nz