Roddenberry Next Generation 1st Season Dustbuster User manual

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The Next Generation 1st Season "Dustbuster"
Phaser Prop Kit Assembly Manual
Thank you for your purchase of the Roddenberry.com Star Trek: The Next Generation First Season
Phaser Prop Kit. These instructions will enable you to construct an accurate replica of the phaser used
in the rst two seasons of The Next Generation.
Commonly known as the “Dustbuster” Phaser, it is cast hollow for light weight and ease of upgradeability.
It features a snap-in grip, so no screws are visible or necessary, and includes a translucent red emitter.

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BASIC LAYOUT AND INVENTORY
PARTS LIST:
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: SPRAY PAINTS:
BRUSh PAINTS:
• 1 Main Body
• 1 Emitter
• 1 Grip
• 2 Bullet Catches
• 1 LED Detail Plate
• 1 Trigger and
Force Setting
Button Template
• 1 .090” Plastic Strip
for buttons
• 1 .040” Plastic Strip
for trigger button
(available at your local hardware or hobby stores)
• Hobby Knife
• Automotive spot putty
• Cyanoacrylate Glue (“gap lling” type
recommended)
• Sandpaper (240, 400, and up to 600 grit)
• Low tack glue (“Glue Stik”) or double-sided tape
• Masking tape (low-tack blue tape recommended)
• Hot glue gun and hot glue
• Paint brushes (small size for painting the LEDs,
a larger brush for the display background)
Optional tool:
• File (at or half-round)
• Spray primer (both gray and black
sandable type)
• Krylon “Dove Gray” or “Stone Gray”
• Krylon or other brand Silver or similar
• Semi-Gloss or Gloss Black
• Transparent Blue or Metallic Light Blue
• Light Green
• Dark gray (this may be a spray paint if desired)
• Beige (also can be a spray paint)
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety tips on your materials.
Always work in a well-ventilated area when using putty, paints, and glues; and when sanding.

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Step 2: Test t the LED plate, sand it if necessary until it looks good and ts properly. Also test t the emit-
ter and the grip.
Step 1: Wash your parts with soap and water to remove traces of mold release before starting.
Step 3: Sand away the sprues and any mold seams on the body. Putty any objectionable bubbles or lines,
sanding marks, etc., and sand until smooth.

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Step 4: When the body is prepared, hang the body on a hook and spray your rst coat of gray primer.
When dry, putty and sand any pits or dips that weren’t visible before painting. When you have a surface
you’re pleased with, spray a fresh coat of primer over the sanded areas before proceeding.
Step 5: Spray your Dove Gray (a.k.a. Stone Gray) nish coat next. Two light coats are better than one
heavy coat; this may be wet sanded between coats with 600 or ner grit sandpaper if desired. When you
have the nal gray nish, lightly mist a fog of silver spray paint over all the body to give you the pictured
nish.
Step 6: Be sure you check to see that visible hidden areas like the inside grip area is also painted and nished.
Step 7: Allow several hours or overnight for the nish to cure before handling.

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Step 8: Mask around the top display block with the masking tape and either brush-on or spray a coat of
dark gray in the visible area.
Step 9: Prepare the grip like you did the body -- cut off the sprue and sand the mold seams until smooth
and putty if necessary. Lightly sand the surface with 400-grit sandpaper to allow the paint to stick better.
Step 10: Prepare the holes in both ends of the grip; clear away with your knife if necessary, then test t the
bullet catches. The catches should t snugly but not be too difcult to push in. Remove the catches before
painting.

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Step 11: Make a hook as shown using a wire hanger, then spray primer (with gray or black), then spray
the color coats with the semi-gloss or gloss black. A gloss nish will look better, but it takes longer to dry
and will show off more surface aws than the duller paints. Allow to cure several hours or overnight before
handling.
Step 12: With the cyanoacrylate glue, apply a small amount on one edge of one grip hole and push in a
bullet catch until set in place.
Step 13: Do the same with the other end.
Step 14: Be sure that you don’t accidentally get glue in the catches themselves, press the catch balls in to
be sure they still function.

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Step 15: Prepare the emitter by sanding the mold seams and lightly sanding the surfaces. Be very careful
around the lightly detailed areas, you do not want to sand the squared details off!
Step 16: Mask the “inner” details as shown. Measure the width of the squares and cut your tape to that
width, then wrap around the emitter, mark the lines on the tape, and cut off the “strips” all around the
emitter. Or cut the squares out of a length of tape and place individually on the emitter. Also apply some
tape on the little tip area at the front end, and the block of material that goes into the phaser.
Step 18: Spray black primer onto the emitter, then your nish black coats with the same semi-gloss or
gloss black that you painted the grip. As with the body, you can wet sand the emitter for the ultimate
smooth nish -- allow the water to dry completely before spraying the next coat. Allow to cure several hours
before handling.
Step 17: You may, if desired, mask the three grooves -- some phasers were unpainted red there and some
were black painted; it’s a matter of personal preference.

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Step 19: When the paint is cured, pry off the masking tape from everywhere except the front tip -- leave
that tape on! You may need to lightly use your hobby knife on the tape edges to separate them and to keep
from lifting your fresh paint job.
Step 22: With the paper template of the buttons, cut off the two smaller buttons and tack this down with
the glue stik or double sided tape onto the .090 piece of plastic. Tack the large button down on the piece of
.040 plastic.
Step 20: To paint the blue front end, mask off the rest of the emitter body and the tip in the middle, then spray
silver on the front. When dry, spray transparent blue on top of the silver; this gives an attractive translucent
“candy” car look to that part of the phaser. Or spray with a metallic light blue, this will look about the same.
Step 21: When cured enough to handle, remove the masking tape and admire your handiwork!

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Step 23: Carefully cut the buttons to size and le or sand to nal size.
Step 26: When dry, test t the buttons.
Step 25: Secure the buttons on a Popsicle stick, cardboard, etc. and spray primer. The two small buttons
are beige in color, these can be brushed-on or spray-painted. The trigger button is silver.
Step 24: Test t on the body and sand more if needed.

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Step 27: Scrape away the paint on the body where the buttons (and the LED detail plate) will be glued to --
glue joints work better on resin than on paint. Apply glue to the button depressions (NOT the LED slot) and
place the buttons. Don’t use so much glue that it seeps out of the edges and onto your nish.
Step 28: Prepare the LED plate by sanding at the bottom side and making sure it ts in the hole properly.
Step 29: The LED plate simulates a 10-element green bar graph LED array with green elements bordered
by a light gray. If the resin color is not to your liking, you may spray primer the surface, then spray a coat of
Dove Gray. When dry, or if the resin color is good enough, cut strips of masking tape and apply on all the
raised areas of the LED plate. Brush on the light green paint to the exposed areas.

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Step 30: When dry, remove the tape.
Step 32: Scrape away paint from the inside of the large phaser cavity where the emitter goes.
Step 31: Apply glue to the LED depression and install the LED plate.

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Step 33: With the hot glue gun, spread a quantity of hot glue all around the inside of the front hole and
push in the emitter, again making sure you don’t get glue on the outside surfaces. You have a little time to
get enough hot glue in and to install and align the emitter onto the phaser before the hot glue hardens.
Step 34: Snap in your grip...

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Step 35: ...and you have a completed TNG First Season “Dustbuster” Phaser!
I MPORTANT NOTES:
The physical reproduction by any means known or yet to be invented (including recasting
and/or reverse-engineering or 3D scanning/printing) of the Roddenberry.com Next Generation
First Season Phaser Kit or any of its parts is expressly prohibited under U.S. and International
copyright and product protection laws.
Copyright © 2009 Roddenberry Productions.
Star Trek and related marks and logos are Trademarks of CBS Studios Inc. All rights reserved.