Royal 16X32X24L-S User manual

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Inground Pool Guide

2
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for your pool purchase! Proper installation of your swimming pool is the most critical
factor in homeowner satisfaction and continued enjoyment. The design of this guide provides
the installer with the best-known recommendations for a successful pool installation based on
years of experience, research, and on the job know-how. It contains the most current
information to make your installation experience easier and more efficient.
Before beginning construction, the installer must acquire construction permits and then
perform their work in accordance with the building regulations of the area in which the
swimming pool is to be constructed.
START: Refer to the Delivery Process and Inventory Check document that was previously sent to
you prior to starting the build of your pool. If you did not receive the above-mentioned
document please reach out to Royal Swimming Pools Inc. immediately.
READ THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE THOROUGHLY AND
COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING CONSTRUCTION
We have also compiled a video that overviews the entire process of installing an inground pool.
From excavation, to jumping in your pool, we have you covered!
http://www.royalswimmingpools.com/Pool-Construction-Video.htm
LEGALITIES
THE MATERIAL IN THIS MANUAL IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE ONLY. ROYAL SWIMMING POOLS INC, THE
MANUFACTURER, AND/OR DISTRIBUTOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATION, WARRANTIES, OR GUARANTEE OF
ANY KIND, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, REGARDING THIS INFORMATION. THE MANUFACTURER AND/OR
DISTRIBUTOR ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY PERSONAL INJURIES OR PROPERTY DAMAGE RESULTING FROM, OR
DURING, INSTALLATIONS DONE BASED ON THIS INFORMATION.
IF THERE ARE ANY DISCREPANCIES BETWEEN THIS INFORMATION AND STATE OR LOCAL BUILDING CODES,
OR IF STATE OR LOCAL CODES ARE MORE COMPREHENSIVE OR SPECIFIC ABOUT CONSTRUCTION, DESIGN,
OR SAFETY, THE STATE AND FOCAL REGULATIONS MUST TAKE PRECEDENCE.

3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preliminary Considerations_______________________________________________________6
Building Codes/Permits
Utilities Required
Selecting the Pool Site
Excavation Contractor
Basic Minimum Tools Recommended
Layout Pool__________________________________________________________________ 10
How to Keep the Layout Square
Rectangle Pools with Radius Corners/Round Pools
Oval Pools
Freeform Pools
Excavation___________________________________________________________________ 17
Set Panels___________________________________________________________________ 21
The Skimmer and Return Inlet Placement
Non-Vinyl Covered Steps
Steel or Polymer Wall Panel Assembly
Square, Level, & Main Drain_____________________________________________________ 26
Squaring the Pool Walls
Leveling the Pool to the Predetermined Elevations
Main Drains
Installation of the Coping_______________________________________________________ 29
Bullnose Coping
Cantilever Coping/Flat Track Bead Receiver
Cantilever Coping with Foam Form Coping
Pour the Concrete Footing______________________________________________________ 31

4
Pre-Installation of the Skimmer, Return Inlet Fitting, Underwater Light, & Rope Anchors_____32
Installation of Automatic Skimmer
Preparation of Return Inlet Fitting
Installation of Underwater Light
Installation of Rope Anchors
Plumbing ____________________________________________________________________35
Equipment Pad
Testing for Plumbing Leaks
Bottom Preparation___________________________________________________________ 37
Resetting Pool Floor Dimensions
Install Foam Wall
Layout of Finished Dimensions
Checking the Final Grade
Possible Pool Bottom Materials
Mixing Procedure for Vermiculite/Portland Base
Mixing Procedure for Pre-Mix Base
Bottom Finishing Procedure
Troweling the Bottom__________________________________________________________43
Installation of the Liner _______________________________________________________ _44
Vacuuming Liner into Place
Adding Water and Final Installations______________________________________________ 48
Filling the Pool with a Garden Hose
Filling the Pool with a Fire Hydrant or Tanker Truck
Step Faceplates
Installation of Light Niche Faceplate
Installation of the Return Inlet Fitting and Skimmer Faceplate
Backfilling the Pool____________________________________________________________ 50

5
Form for Deck ________________________________________________________________51
Set Accessories_______________________________________________________________ 52
Diving Board Installation
Ladder Placement
Electrical Bonding_____________________________________________________________ 53
Planning the Pour_____________________________________________________________ 54
Final Checklist Before Pouring the Deck
Final Placement and Finishing____________________________________________________55
Decorative Decks
Fencing Around Pool
Installation of Safety Rope
Application of Safety Warning Labels _____________________________________________ 56
Appendix____ ________________________________________________________________57
Polymer Panels
Ground Water
Vinyl Overlay Steps
Polymer Bracing Modification

6
PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS
BUILDING CODES/PERMITS
Advance knowledge concerning State and Local Swimming Pool Codes will prevent fines and
work stoppage orders. Most ordinances vary considerably from one county to another and
nothing should be assumed or implied. It may be necessary for the homeowner/pool builder to
present dig specs and engineering specs to the local building department. You should also
obtain a copy of the local swimming pool code for your area. Be sure that you understand all
code requirements that are both directly and indirectly associated with your swimming pool.
Take special note of sewer, drainage, fencing, lot line, power lines, fire, and electrical
requirements.
UTILITIES REQUIRED
•Water- for construction and filling of pool
•Electrical- temporary supply during construction and a
permanent supply for the pump and pool lighting
•Sewage- for adequate drainage
•Fuel for heater- Natural Gas or Propane
SELECTING THE POOL SITE
Obstructions must be considered before selecting the final pool site. Obstructions could include
underground wires, gas lines, septic tanks, dry-well systems, plumbing, trees, and overhead
power lines. Underground obstruction and utilities should be located before excavation begins.
Utility companies will usually locate underground pipes and cables that are located on your
property at no charge to you. If various obstructions are unavoidable, a compromise must be
reached. However, keep in mind the labor and material costs of moving or replacing
obstructions. We’ve found that most pool owners choose the path of least resistance for the
sake of practicality and budget.
Sun and Shade can be an important factor when determining the pool site as well. Excessive
shaded areas from trees and other buildings could result in uncomfortable swimming
conditions during cooler weather months which could increase your heating costs
considerably. Likewise, excessive sun can be unbearable for some during the summer months.
You must determine your pools placement based on your personal preferences and ideal
usage.
IMPORTANT! Obtain
the required permits
before starting your
swimming pool
installation

7
Proper pool orientation will take advantage of sunny days for comfortable swimming condition,
decrease heating costs, and in some states, meet requirements set forth by the public health
department referring to diving board placement.
Existing Landscape Removal is dependent on individual preference. A certain amount of
removal might be possible without disturbing the natural atmosphere of the backyard. This can
be done by careful use of planters, shrubs, and flowers. Of course, you will want to remove any
trees/shrubs located directly inside the pool layout of your final chosen pool site. When it
becomes necessary to remove trees, the entire root system needs to be excavated in order to
avoid new trees sprouting through your pool and/or surrounding areas in the future. An
effective method of preventing continued root growth is to apply copper sulfate to the root
system.
Ease of Excavation to provide the best access and most ideal working conditions. Placing the
pool a few feet one way or the other, may permit improved excavation conditions, easier dirt
removal and concrete placement.
Convenient Access to changing facilities and house exits also requires some thought. Available
site lines for supervision of the swimming area from inside the house via windows and/or glass
doors should also be considered. As you select your pool site, make a rough layout of where
you think the pool should be located. Then consider decking and walk ways by staking out their
approximate positions.
The Location of the Pool in Relation to Other Buildings should be both an aesthetic and practical
consideration. Some considerations are whether the pool should be laid out parallel,
perpendicular, or at a 45-degree angle to an existing house, building, building line, hedgerow,
fence and/or another dominant object.
Advanced Knowledge of Subsoil Conditions can be helpful in determining the placement of the
pool. It is advisable under certain circumstances (areas that have excavation issues) to probe
the subgrade by boring a series of test holes. The results would suggest the best position and
grade of the pool. Problems such as a rocky substrate, high water table, or excessive clay,
should be located before construction. They can be eliminated simply by moving the pool, thus
keeping the construction process as smooth and economical as possible.

8
Check the Selected Location for Grade or Elevation of the Pool as the pool walls must rest on
undisturbed soil. Keep the top surface of the pool (pool deck) at least three to four inches
above the highest ground elevation in the area. This will avoid any surface drainage back into
the pool.
The Equipment Location should be included in your considerations:
•You’ll want to place your filter on a concrete slab. Be sure to make the slab large
enough for all equipment, usually 3' X 4'or 3' X 7' with a heater. Also, consider at this
time whether an enclosure will be built over the equipment in order to plan the slab size
accordingly.
•Keep the filter within 20' of the pool to maintain optimum pump performance.
•Never locate the filter and pump more than six inches above or six inches below pool
grade. Otherwise, pump priming or overflow problems are likely to occur.
•Never locate the filter and pump in a basement as it is possible that a malfunction in
plumbing could cause flooding.
•Consider where the backwash water will drain. Is there adequate drainage? Check for
local codes requiring special methods to dispose backwash water.
•The filter location is also important from an aesthetic point of view. When making the
rough layout of the pool, visualize placement of the filter and plan for future
landscaping or enclosures. Out of sight of the immediate pool area is usually preferred.
EXCAVATION CONTRACTOR
One of the most important phases that makes for a smooth installation is the excavation. If the
excavation is incorrect, each subsequent step becomes costlier as well as more difficult. For
instance, if the bottom grade of the pool is too shallow and rough, you will have to resort to
hours or even days of hand trimming. A skilled excavation contractor should be chosen for this
critical part of the installation process. Search for a local “excavating contractor" in your area or
online at www.realpages.com.
TIP
Other terms used to describe the top of the pool coping are pool grade, final elevation or
"top surface."

9
When selecting an excavation contractor be sure to confirm their experience through referrals,
building contractors, or local officials. Also note that the job can be finished most efficiently if
the contractor has a rubber-tire backhoe with a bucket capacity of at least one-half cubic yard
and adequate mobility to enable loading excess dirt directly into the vessel which will be
removing it from the property. For this, a dump truck will speed the job along as well.
The excavator, regardless of his experience level, should be sure to study the pool drawings in
detail before starting the excavation.
BASIC MINIMUM TOOLS RECOMMENDED
Broom
Phillips & Large Slot Screwdriver
Carpenter's level, Shot stick, and Water Level
or Transit Level
Shovels (2 minimum)
Commercial Shop Vac with hose or Liner
Vacuum
Socket set, adjustable wrench, open-end
wrench, & 18" Pipe Wrench Channellock
Pliers
Drills and assorted bits
Spray Paint
Duct Tape
Tape Measure
Extension Cords
Trowels; steel and magnesium
Hacksaw, Hole Saw Set, & Jig Saw
Utility Knife
Mason's String/Line, and C-Clamps
Water source with garden hose and nozzle
Pick, Mattock and Sledge hammers; 3lb. and
10lb
Wheelbarrow
TIP
Set the exact requirements of the job you are requesting. You will want to communicate
with your contractor the exact route for access to the excavation site and where the excess
dirt is to be disposed of. You may wish to incorporate performance requirements and pool
construction plans into a contract to avoid any misunderstandings later.

10
POOL LAYOUT
Once the pool’s location has been chosen, its perimeter must be marked on the ground. The
area beyond the perimeter is known as the ‘over dig’ (see Figure A) and is used for wall and
brace placement. The over dig area should be 2 feet around the entire perimeter of your pool.
FIGURE A:
*LINES 5 AND 6 SHOULD BE EQUAL
POOL SIZE
LINES 1 & 3
LINES 2 & 4
LINE 5
LINE 6
14’ X 28’
18’
32’
16’ X 32’
20’
36’
16’ X 36’
20’
40’
18’ X 36’
22’
40’
20’ X 40’
24’
44’
TOOLS
Level and/or shot stick, mason’s string, spray paint, tape measurer, (8-10) 3/8" x 24" rebar
stakes, hammer, and dig specification drawing
LINE 4
LINE 1
LINE 3
LINE 2
OVER DIG
OVER DIG
2’
2’

11
STEP 1- From rebar stake A (first corner), lay out the distance of
one side of the pool to rebar stake B. Care should be taken when
setting the direction of the rebar stake as this makes up the above
mentioned "Line 1" in Figure A. Use the measurement guides above
to determine how long Line 1 needs to be.
STEP 2- Starting at rebar stake B
(Second Corner) measure out the
appropriate length for “Line 2”and add
rebar stake C at the third corner,
squared to the previous corners. →
Additional information on “squaring” is
outlined on page 12.
STEP 3- Continuing to use the
measurements in the table above for
your specific pool type, measure the
appropriate length for “Line 3” to locate
the fourth corner with rebar stake D.
STEP 4- Measure back to the first
corner stake A, completing the layout.
Now measure the length of “Line 3” (D
to C). The length should be equal to
the length of “Line 1” (A to B). →
STEP 5- Square the layout by finding
equal diagonals of Lines 5 and 6.
(Details on pg. 12)
LAYOUT : STEP 1
LAYOUT : STEP 2
LAYOUT : STEP 3
LAYOUT : STEP 5
LAYOUT : STEP 4

12
HOW TO KEEP THE LAYOUT SQUARE
Care must be taken to keep the layout square. Measure the distance between opposing corners
and move the stakes until they are at an equal distant. At the same time, the length and width
dimensions of your pool lines/sides must remain equal to their intended measurements.
Starting at a corner, mark one side at 3 feet. Mark the perpendicular side at 4 feet.
The diagonal distance between the two Adjust the sides as required to make
points will be five feet. The corner is square. Doubling or tripling the leg
square if it measures five feet. Measurements will result in increased
accuracy
TIP
Equal diagonals do not guarantee that a pool is square unless the width, length and diagonal
dimensions are equal to their opposing line measurement.

13
RECTANGLE POOLS WITH RADIUS CORNERS/ROUND POOLS
Rectangle pools with radius corners (or Round Pools) can be laid out by finding a point at the
center of the arc and placing a stake there. Using a measuring tape attached to the stake, hold a
can of spray paint at a point equal to the length of the radius on the tape. Paint the complete
circle as allowed by the measured length.
To find the corner radius axis of a rectilinear pool, use string lines or straight edges projecting
from perpendicular sides of the pool to a stake placed at their intersection.
Measure back from the corner Repeat measurement and Place a stake at the mark
stake the same dimension as mark on second side. on each side. Measure
the radius of the corner. same distance and spray
a small arc.
Measure the same distance Place a stake where arcs Tie a wire to the axis stake
and spray a small arc from intersect. This will be the (or use a tape) and mark
the second leg. corner. the corner with spray
paint.
Finished round corner layout.
TIP
Skip ahead to EXCAVATION on page 17 if you
are installing a rectangle pool with radius
corners or round pool.

14
OVAL POOLS
As any oval or freeform shape fits within a rectangle, it may be easier
to set the location of the pool if the rectangle is laid out first as
described in the previous pages. Choose a fixed point, away from the
over dig (typically the house), from which the first corner stake will
be located. Measure and mark the distance from the fixed point to
the location of the first corner stake. Square the first corner to your
fixed point. The remaining corner stakes can now be set and squared
accordingly as described on page 11.
Once you have your rectangle with a 2’ over dig
mapped out, start by finding your center line
stake points. Start at either short side of your
pool (Line 1 or 3 from Figure A on pg. 10), from
the center of that line, measure inside your box the distance of your over
dig plus the distance of your radius (the over dig is traditionally 2’ and the
radius can be found on your dig spec) For this example our radius is 9’. So,
measuring inward the 2’ over dig plus our 9’ radius, results in marking the
ground at 11’ in from your rectangle.
From that mark, go over perpendicularly to the side of your rectangle (Line
4 or 2 from Figure A) and measure inward another 11’. Drive a rebar stake
in the ground where these two points intersect to indicate your first
center point as shown.
You can either repeat this process on the opposite side of your pool, in
which case once you have your two center points staked and the
distance between them should equal the center line distance shown on
your dig spec. In this example, that would be 17’ 8 ¾”.
Another way to find your second center point is the swing method. Tie
string or attach your tape measurer to your first center point and
measure out the center line distance found on your dig spec. In this
example, that would be 17’ 8 ¾”. Keeping the string or measurer tight,
use spray paint while you swing your 17’ 8 ¾” radius arc. Do the same
for your over dig plus radius (here 11’). Where these two points
intersect should mark your second center point. Square both center
points to your fixed point before moving forward.

15
We will continue to reference the dig spec to the left, however
make sure to use your provided dig spec to determine the
measurements for your pool.
Having your center line accurate is essential as the remaining
measurements work off of this line. You should double check that
your center points measure square to your fixed point before
moving forward.
Tie string or attach your tape
measurer to one of the center
points and measure out the
desired radius (from your dig spec)
for the rounded portion of your
pool. In this example, the radius is
9’. →
Keeping the string or measurer
tight, use spray paint to swing your
9’ radius arc from one straight wall
edge to the other. You can double
check these marks by measuring
from the center point stake in any
direction and you should measure
9’ from stake to spray paint mark
every time.
Once you have your radiuses properly marked you can measure
the straight edge walls, making sure that the numbers match
your dig spec, and mark/string them according.
You can also use string to showcase your future slope line
locations.

16
FREEFORM POOLS
For freeform pools, the rectangular box (page 11) is laid out and measurements are taken from
the corners of the box to locations on the pool. Your box corners will act as your fixed points
once the box is complete and squared. Using your dig specs identify the center line(s) and tie
string from one end to the other. Do the same at the corner stakes. Refer to the drawing and
mark all other points including straight lines and arcs as indicated. Once that is complete the
perimeter can be marked with paint.
For this example, we will be using the dig spec below however always refer to your own dig
spec for specific measurements.
Use the swing method outlined on pages 13
and 14 to determine all of your curved edges
using the radiuses given on your dig spec. →
STAKE OUT
A –B
18’ – 1 5/8”
A –C
19’ – 10 ¼”
A –D
17’ – 0”
A –E
17’ – 0”
B –C
10’ – 5 3/8”
B –E
17’ – 0”
B –F
17’ – 0”
C –D
17’- 0”
C –F
16’ – 11 ½”
BREAK-OFF
A –Y
17’ – 2 ½”
A –X
24’ – 4”
A –H1
5’ – 5/8”
A –H2
5’ – 0”
BOX DIMENSIONS
B1-B2
42’- 15/8”
B2-B3
34’- 4 ½”
B1-B3
54’- 4 5/8”
TIP
There are radius and reverse radius
portions of your pool. A radius would form
a closed circle on the inside of your pool,
where a reverse radius would for a circle
on the outside of your pool.

17
EXCAVATION
Once the layout is complete, choose the elevation for the top
surface of the pool. If you are using bullnose coping, make
sure to note that the top of the coping will also be the top of
your finished deck. Normally the surface will correlate with a
surrounding walk way, patio deck, or the highest ground
elevation of the pool site. The top surface of the pool must be
at least two to four inches (2" to 4") above the highest ground
elevation to prevent rain and debris from draining/overflowing
into the pool. In order to determine the depth of the
excavation, you’ll need to use the standard calibrated survey
shot stick (level measuring stick) and transit or water level. A
2 x 2, telescopic pool pole approximately 10' long, or other
similar stick can be substituted for a standard shot stick.
In an out of the way place that will not have to be moved during construction, set and level the
transit or water level and then locate the highest ground elevation of the area around the pool
site. This is done by placing a shot stick at selected areas and marking it at the level indicated by
the transit. With a pencil, mark the stick at the point where the transit cross-hairs intersect with
the shot stick. When using a water level, mark the shot stick with duct tape at the level of water
in the tube. Add two to four inches (2" - 4") to this elevation mark. This will now be your
reference point for the elevation of the top surface of the finished pool coping and deck (or the
top surface of brick coping). The finished elevation indicated on your dig spec is measured to
the top of the pool wall (usually 42" not including the height of the bullnose coping). The dig
measurement indicated on your dig spec is usually 42" for the shallow end of the pool and 2"
deeper than the finished depth of the deep end of the pool. This does not include the additional
height of excavation needed for your selected coping.
Next, measure 44½" above the level mark on the shot stick and mark with tape or marker. This
new mark now determines the excavation depth for the shallow end and over dig ledge.
Transpose/transfer this elevation mark to a deck, sidewalk, mortar joint on a block/brick wall,
or drive a stake in an out of the way place and mark for future reference. The depth of the pool
wall footing excavation will be 44½" below this reference point.
TOOLS
Shot stick (or level measuring stick), Transit/Water level, Excavation Digging
Tools/Machinery, Rebar Stakes, Hammer, Spray Paint, and String
IMPORTANT! Height of
standard pool wall is
42” plus the height of
your selected coping,
which must be added
to the wall height to
get the accurate total
wall height.

18
A retaining wall may be needed if excessive sloping of the landscape around the pool area
prevents the desired finished elevation needed to meet an existing patio elevation.
Next, the entire shallow end of the pool is to be dug to the same
level as the shelf. This is the 44½" depth, measured from the top of
the coping. The first operation is to dig the pool area (including the
2½' wide working shelf/over dig) to a uniform depth of 44½" below
the reference point selected as the top surface of the pool. Dig the
working shelf/over dig across the width of the pool. Place the shot
stick in the hole as the excavator continues to dig until the depth is
equal to the 44½" mark. When the 44½" mark is in the level sight of
the transit you know that this part of the hole is at proper depth.
In pools with steps, lounges or similar accessories, the length and width of the over dig must be
extended to accommodate each unit and its braces.
Accuracy at this stage is imperative and will require less adjustments to the pool walls later.
IMPORTANT!
Always check and
re-check the
excavation depth
from the
reference point
during the
excavation.
TIP
If the pencil mark is above the cross
hairs, the excavation is not deep
enough, and the pool will be higher than
the predetermined elevation. If the
mark below the cross hairs, the
excavation is too deep and the pool wall
will be below the predetermined
elevation. If you are using the water
level, the water will be below the mark
in the tube when the excavation is too
high and above the mark when the
excavation is to deep.

19
Repeat the previous steps on marking the Pool Layout in order to recreate the layout inside the
excavation area. Remember to leave the 2½' over dig as working space and brace the ledge.
This layout needs to be accurate as it will decide the exact position of the pool. Use rebar stakes
and paint or flour to mark the outline of the pool.
Usually, the last stage of excavation involves
digging the hopper (the deepest part of your
pool). Hoppers vary in width, length and depth
and should be dug according to the dimensions
on the dig specification drawing. Generally,
installers drive stakes at the hopper corners,
transition points and pool wall corners and
connect string to them at this time. The string is
set at the height of the intended finished grade.
Remember, if the pool is to be used for diving,
the finished dimensions must conform to
applicable codes and standards.
While digging the hopper, the excavator can trim the hopper walls to the proper slope as the
final depth of the hole is reached. The excavated depth of the hopper is 4½" deeper than the
finish dimensions of the pool. This allows for 2" of sand/vermiculite pool base on the bottom
and the 2½" coping (actual coping height can vary. You should measure the actual height of the
coping supplied with your kit).
IMPORTANT!
Be careful not to dig into the area
outside of the string to avoid an
undercut of the 2' ledge. Doing so
will remove the supporting ledge
for the pool wall panels.

20
Refer to the swimming pool dig spec drawing for your specific pool size for the total excavated
depth of the deep-end. Your dig specs (also called panel layout) were sent and approved during
your ordering process and should have also been emailed to you along with this guide. The dig
spec shows the depth measured from the top of the pool wall. If you are using bullnose
coping, you’ll need to add an additional 2½" of excavated depth from the top of the coping or
finished elevation. The finished measurement shown on the dig spec is the measurement from
the pool floor to the liner track or top of the pool wall.
Check the hopper/deep end of your pool to make sure it is squared
as you proceed from the hopper toward the shallow end. To square
the hopper, measure the diagonals/slopes. If the diagonals are
equal, the layout is square.
A trench for plumbing tubes from the pool to the planned filter
location can be dug at this time. The excavator should dig the
plumbing trench at a depth of at least eighteen inches (18"). It
should reach from the pool over dig to the equipment pad. This will
save digging by hand later!