Samba Model Pike Dynamic User manual

Congratulations for choosing the right model! Your new Pike Dynamic.
The model is a handmade product, carefully packed for your convenience.
Please check that all items ordered are included and not damaged during transportation.
A basic model includes:
• 2 wing sections (left and right)
• 1 fuselage with canopy
• 1 elevator
• 1 rudder
Or 2 pcs Vtail with fuse tail cover
• 1 carbon joiner 8 types available and S (standard) 102g , SL 77 g, F5J 62 g and EL1300 39g
All available in 3 or 5,2 degrees. It is same joiner as Perfection but shorter. Must not be
changed between models as Dynamic joiner is too short for Perfection
• aileron and flaps 2 mm thick GFK horns if no LDS installed
• 2 pcs clevis couplers
• 2 pcs elevator bolts
• Wire harness fuse (wing is already in)
Additionally you can order:
• ballast set
• wing bags
• Fuse cover for sun protection
• LDS and/or servos in wing and servos for fuse. All can be delivered semi ready or installed.
To complete a model you will need:
• 4pcs metal geared servos for the wing (22g size). Min 25Ncm/35oz.in. We recommend
lighter servos MKS 6110 or similar only for F5J versions.
• 2 pcs 13mm servo for elevator and rudder. Min. 20Ncm/30oz.in
• 8 clevises and 2mm threaded rods for the wings (or better 2,5mm)
• 4xAA Rx battery or equal and a sufficient switch. Or 2x18650 Liion with BEC.
• a high quality receiver
• epoxy to glue in the servos and thin cyano (CA) to secure clevises
• strong clear tape (12mm wide) to join the wings and rudder to the fuselage
Assembling the wing:
• Sand the surface of the servos and the servo trays where the servos will be glued.
• Connect the servos and the fuse harness to the respective channels on the receiver. Check
that the aileron servo arms are set 90 degrees on the servo and that the transmitter also is set
to neutral. Check that the flap servo arms are set identically to approximately 20 degrees
(measured from the 90°-angle) towards the flap. The transmitter should later be set to an
offset so that the flap servo arms are 90 degrees on the servos. With full butterfly the servo
arms on the flaps are almost straight towards the flap. This ensures full deflection of the flaps
for butterfly brake.
• Check again the servo settings and also set the offset of the flap servos. Check also that the
servos move the right way.
• Mark where the servos will be glued in place by a pencil in the servo trays and ensure that
the servo arm is aligned (straight line) to the line defined by the hole in the subspar and the
flap horn. Some like to fix their servos to the spar. This ensures a very tight and slop free
servo installation as the wing surface can bend a little.

• Gluing of GFK 2mm horns. Best position – the bottom edge of the horns must be 1 mm
behind hinge line. For stabilization in the right position use a little cyano and for perfect sealing
use epoxy with carbon dust or thixotropy agent.
• Glue the servos in using epoxy. Use a proper amount of epoxy so that some epoxy will be
pressed out on the sides of the servos when you push them in. Use some weight fixing the
servos as long as the epoxy hardens to ensure that the servo fits perfect. If the epoxy is thin it
is possible to add some thixotropy agent.
If using servo frames you can wrap the servo in thin food plastic before securing it in the
frame. This way the frame is glued into the wing but servo can be changed if needed.
• Install the threads and clevises whilst the servo arms are set 90 degrees on the servos and
the ailerons / flaps are set in neutral position. Secure the thread to the clevis with extra thin
CA as this is a place with some slop. Oil the hole in the brass horn with a tiny drop of oil for
years of service. Check also thoroughly the clevis pins going into the brass horns and servo
arms. There are clevises that can be poorly made in this special detail. Use the inner most hole
on the servo arms possible to ensure full power of the servo yet providing full throw.
• It is recommended to install clear tape on the ends of the wings. This will prevent the paint
being ripped off when the tape is applied / removed every time you go flying.
• Adjust the aileron throw to: - Speed, thermal and neutral to 28/18mm (27/17 degrees). -
Launch 28/0mm (100% differential) - 20% expo
• Adjust the aileron throw on flaps to - Speed and neutral 6/5mm - Thermal and launch
0/0mm
• Adjust the crow brake flaps to as much as possible (84mm / 75 degrees is good)
• Adjust the crowbrake on ailerons to 5mm up (4 degrees)
• Adjust the camber for launch to 6-10mm flap and aileron equal. Start with 6mm. Camber for
thermal/speed is 2-4mm down / 1-2mm up measured on flaps and equal along the whole
trailing edge. More thermal camber might be used in special weather conditions. Camber for
distance is 1mm up and for speed/zoom 2mm up.
• Cut the servo covers carefully so that the servo horns fit underneath the bumps if needed.
Assembling the fuselage:
• Install the “fuse to wing”-harness in the fuselage. Roughen the
green connector and fuselage fitting before you glue it with
melting glue or cyano. Be careful not to get cyano on contacts as
it can damage contact and current can creep to the sig al wire.
• Install the receiver battery and receiver before servos. 2+2 AA
batteries are recommended though 2+3 and 2x 18650 liion can
also be fitted. It is recommended to pack the receiver in bubble
plastic or equal to absorb shocks. Ensure servos can use the
voltage and secure the front end of the battery to absorb shocks.
Use a voltage regulator if needed.
• Install the fuselage servos (after receiver battery)
• Glue the 2mm clevis couplers to the pushrods roughening the
fiber surface. Pinch the coupler (carefully) with a plier to ensure
tight fit. Check the connection thoroughly. Glue the pushrod tube
to the fuselage between canopy and the leading edge. This point
is very important and is not done from factory because of
different servos used (height)
• If the elevator pin does not go freely in the fuselage opening it
is necessary to turn the pushrod slightly.
• The pin must be fully inserted into the elevator tube to assure
correct throw.
• Screw the elevator to the fuse with adequate force not over
tightening as it will result in damage inside the elevator.
• Adjust the elevator (X-tail) so that it is in neutral checking top
and bottom airfoil (18,5mm measured to fuse). Full throw is 8mm
up and 12mm down (possible 10/17 in thermal/land mode). 40%
expo might be needed for some. At full crow the elevator goes down approximately 4-7mm
One way of installing ballast for
the lightest wings without
ballast tube

depending on crow settings for wing. It is good to ensure more down throw elevator (+8mm)
possible after crow brake is set.
Launch setting is 0,5 to down 1mm depending on launch type (F3J or winch) Rudder throw +/-
30mm
• V-tail: Adjust each v-tail servo so that you get 12mm up and 20mm down movement
(measured at root). Elevator should have 10mm up and 14mm down movement with 30%
exponential. Rudder should have 10mm up and 12mm down movement and 30% exponential.
Neutral is almost equal in both launch, cruise, speed and thermal camber with slight deviations
according to flying style and CG. Elevator compensation on butterfly/brake is about 4-7mm
down depending on flap/aileron settings. Check neutral with ruler/flat surface on hingeline
top/bottom. It is fairly easy to see neutral looking from the end of vtail also.
Assembling the model:
• Attach the rudder to the fuse and secure with a tiny piece of tape round the front and in the
hingeline lower part. This tape is important as it acts as hinge. The elevator locator pin is
“floating” and is just slided over the fuse part. It is not glued. Elevator is attached with the two
bolts supplied.
• Adjust the tow hook inside to 108mm from the leading edge.
• Attach the wing with clear tape to secure at top and around leading edge.
• Check and adjust the CG (center of gravity). A suitable CG for planes with RTF weights 1200
– 1500 g is recommended 105 mm. For planes with RTF weights 1800 - 2100 g is
recommended 107 - 108 mm Some pilots use range 105 – 112 depending on conditions.
• Check range according to transmitter specifications. If you can not get the necessary range
you need to: 1) Check antenna locations 2) Try another transmitter 3) Try another receiver
• There are supplied 8 kinds of joiners carbon S (standart) 102g , SL 77 g, F5J 62 g and
EL1300 39g also 3 and 5,2 degrees available. It is necessary to always use the correct joiner
as the use of wrong joiner might cause the joiner to break and damage of complete model can
occur. Joiners are designed to not break on launch. After harder landings it is necessary to
check the joiner and look for cracks as it could cause failure of complete model in the next
flights.
Settings:
• All the latest detailed settings can be found on www.F3J.com. These are settings from some
of the world’s best pilots. You will find these setting a very good starting point.
Model can not stay long in the sun without silver protection covers (including fuselage) to
prevent excessive heating up of the model as there could appear some deformations of model
parts when model is overheated or the surface could get distortions.
We hope you will be satisfied with your new model. If you have any questions be sure to look
at our webpages. Additional info about the setup and detailed pictures can be found there.
Regards
Samba Model
Webpage: www.F3J.com / Email: [email protected]
One way of installing servos in fuse for F5J version