Singer 257000 User manual

Form 21222
^ ^ (265)
SERVICE MANUAL
SINGER
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL SEQUENTIAL DEVICES
USED WITH MACHINES OF CLASS 256
Four Buttonhole Sewing Units and One Operator
• A Trademark of The SINGER COMPANY
THE SINGER COMPANY
Copyright © 1965by The Singer Company
Copyright under International Copyright Union
All Rights Reserved under Inter-American Copyright Union
Printed in U.S.A.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CONTENTS
DESCRIPTION 3
INSTALLATION 4-8
LUBRICATION 9
PREPARATION FOR USE 10
BUTTONHOLE SEWING 11
SIMPLE ADJUSTMENTS 12-13
TROUBLE SHOOTING 20-27
NOTES AND MEMORANDA 28
SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM 29
GLOSSARY OF ELECTRICAL SYMBOLS 30
WIRING DIAGRAM 31
PARTS LIST ANDCHART (Rear of Book)
SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS AND FUNCTIONS OF ASSOCIATED ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS 14-19
Adjustments 7, 8, 12, 13
Air Gop (Clutch Adjustment) 13, 25
Auto-Stoft Button 11, 16
Base Top Plate 5, 7
Bearings (Lubrication) 9
Belt Installation 8
Belt, Tension 8
Belt Tightener Brocket 8
Bobbin 10
Bobbin, Empty 11, 18, 19
Broke, Camshaft (Adjustment) 13
Buttonhole Completion
(After Interruption) 12, 21
Buttonholes, Number of 10, 13
Buttonhole Spacing 3, 12, 24, 25
Cabinet Door, Closing 11
Clomp Check 7
Clomp Lift 7
Clomp Lifting Coble 7
Clomp Lifting Cam 7
Cloth
Plate (Installation) 8
Cloth Stop 11
Contactor 15, 20
Counter 3
Counter Arrow 11
Counterweight 19
Cylinder 24
Cylinder Pressure 24
Cycling Switch, Actuating Lever 6, 26
Dial-Stop Setting 10
Drive-Start Button 10, 14
Emergency Stop Button 10, 15
Extension, Thread Cutting Lever 7
Fuse 20
Gripper 11, 21
Gripper Chain 9
Gripper Chain Sprocket 9, 19, 21
Gripper Index 24
Gripper Jaws 11
Gripper Lever 11
Gripper Slide 24
Gripper Slide Block 19
Gripper Slide Roils 9, 24
Gripper Track 9
Hond Ratchet Lever 12
INDEX
Hilliord Clutch 18
Hilliord Clutch, Lubrication 9
Hinge
Bracket 5
Impulse Counter 17
Impulse Count Switch .18
Indexing Cam 17
Indexing Com Shaft 16, 17
Index Gripper Button 22
Index Reset Button 22
Indexing Stop Switch Bracket Slide 22
Indicator Bulb 20
Interlocking Stop Rod 10
Knife 3, 11, 23
Knife
Bar 17, 23
Lever, Trip 17
Lubricotion 9, 10
Machine 3
Machine Base 5
Machine Bed 5
Machine Belt Guord 5
Machine Driving Belt 8
MochineHinge Connection Bracket 5
Mochine Lubrication 9, 10
Machine Rest Position 10, 14
Machine Speed 10
Magnetic Clutch 10, 15
Magnetic Clutch, Cleaning 25
Magnetic Clutch Lubrication 9
Magnetic Clutch, Testing 21, 25
Magnetic Motor Starter 15
Main Fuse 20
Main Power Switch 9, 10, 14
Manuol Starting Lever 6, 12
Microswitch 16, 17
Motor 3, 8, 9
Motor Alignment 8
Motor Driving
Belt 8
Motor Lubrication 9
Needle 10
Needle Bar 10
Needle Threading 10
Oiling (See Lubrication) 9, 10
Overload Switch 15
Petcock 24
Power Cord 20
Power Switches 10
Pulley 8
Reductor 8, 9
Reposi'tion Gorment 11, 12, 21
Reset Bor 20
Rest Position 14
Safety Device, Clamp Lifting 6
Safety Precautions 10, 11, 15
Sewing Buttonholes 11
Sewing Machine Head 5
Solenoid .17, 23, 27
Spacing between Buttonholes
(Adjustment) 3, 12, 24, 25
Spacing between Buttonholes and
Garment Edge (Adjustment) 3, 12
Spacing Com (Adjustment) 12
Speed 10
Starting Button 3
Storting Lever Push-Rod 6
Start Lever (Manual) 6
Stop Bar 16
Stop Cam 10
Stop Dial 10
Stop, Emergency 10
Stop Motion 10
Stop Motion Interlocking Rod 10
Stop Notch 10
Stop
Position 7, 10
Switch 13
Tension 8
Tension, Belt 8
Thermal Overload Switch 20
Thread 10
Thread, Breaking 12
Thread Cutting Lever 7
Threading 10
Tightening Belt 8
Trip Cam 6
Trip Lever 6
Trip Rod 6
Upper Cloth Plate 3
Upper Cloth Plate Assembly 8
Work Clomp 10, 11
TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:
The improper placing or renewal of the Trodemork SINGER* or any other of the Trademarks of The Singer Company
(all of which ore duly Registered Trademarks) on any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered
in any way whatsoever outside aSINGER factory or on outhorized SINGER agency is forbidden.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Electro-Mechanical Sequential Devices are designed
to automatically space buttonhole sewing in a garment.
The spacing governs the number of buttonholes
which can be sewn in one cycling ofthe unit.
A complete unit consists of a steel cabinet which
houses the mechanism required for the automatic move
ment of the garment. Top surface of cabinet forms a
table which supports a sewing machine and a control
panel.
GENERAL FEATURES
Com actuated mechanism controls operation of
sewing machine.
Electrical switches control operation of entire
device.
G>ntrol panel contains electrical equipment neces
sary to coordinate control circuits. Panel is equipped
with thermal-overload protection.
ASeries 38 Motor drives sewing machine. Indexing
Unit is also driven by this motor through Speed-Re-
ducer. Orders for motor must specify correct voltage,
cycles and phase required.
SPECIAL FEATURES
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL SEQUENTIAL DEVICE
257000 is designed for use with Buttonhole Sewing
Machine 71-201. Entire automatic buttonholing unit is
known as Machine 256W1.
Machine 256W1 sequentially positions buttonholes
parallel to edge of garment in accordance with a pre
determined spacing. Buttonholes con be aligned from
3/8 inch to 1 inch from edge of facing.
The machine positions and feeds the garment so
that buttonholes are located vertically. From 3 to 7
buttonholes con be sewn in one cycle, depending upon
the desired spacing within the machine's travel limit
of 19 inches.
Spacing between buttonholes is adjustable from 2)4
inches to 5)4 inches opart.
Feed wheels available for 100, 120, 150 and 180
stitches per buttonhole. Machine regularly supplied
with feed wheel for 120 stitches per buttonhole.
j:. 'j • ' L,
With equal ease, machine handles resin-finished
cottons, cotton and synthetic blends, 100% synthetics
and silks.
Acounter automatically stops machine before bob
bin thread runs out. Red Indicator Light informs opera
tor of reason for stoppage.
If needle thread breaks, buttonhole knife is auto
matically prevented from cutting buttonhole and opera
tion is automatically stopped.
Knives available will cut buttonholes 3/8", 1/2",
5/8" and 3/4" long. Machine regularly fitted to cut
buttonholes 5/8" long.
At completion of each buttonholing cycle, indexing
clomp is automatically returned to open
"start" posi
tion (ready to accept new work).
Convenient feeding and receiving racks simplify
loading and unloading of work.
Operation of each unit requires little more than
placing work under clamp, pressing starting button and
removing work when cycle is completed.
The sewing head. Machine 71-201, has an oscil
lating shuttle and a maximum speed of 2000 R. P. M.
Instructions for servicing Machine 71-201 are contained
in Form 2174W.
In addition to the sequential device, the sewing
head and other units already mentioned. Machine
256W1
includes an adjustable upper cloth plate, athread un
winder and a light fixture.
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL SEQUENTIAL DEVICE
257464 is designed for use with Buttonhole Sewing
Machine 271K201. Entire automatic buttonholing unit
is known as Machine 256-5.
Machine 256-5 is essentially the same as Machine
256W1, except for sewing head in use.
The sewing head. Machine 271K201, has a lubri
cated rotary sewing hook and a two-speed drive. Its
maximum speed is 3000 R. P. M. Instructions for ser
vicing Machine 271K201 are contained in Forms 21303
and K6640, available upon request.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

A SUGO|E$f |)S); BUTTQN^^
Stand-up Operation
Producing Buttonholes on 260 Dozen Dress or Sport Shirt Fronts per Day
CLASS 256
MACHINE
AREA:
80
SQUARE
FEET
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

INSTALLATION
Machines of Class 256 are shipped completely
assembled, ready for operation. When these units have
been disassembled, the following instructions apply
to their reassembly.
MACHINE BASE AND BELT GUARD: Position ma
chine base and belt guard on base top plate with belt
guard toward rear of indexing unit, as shown.
Align the two mounting holes in
base with corres
ponding holes in
base top plate. Insert two hex-head
screws 350665 in mounting holes. Place one washer
67425 and nut 51749 on
each screw (below top-plate)
and tighten nuts.
SEWING MACHINE HEAD: Position sewing machine
on machine base. Avoid damage to hook driving shaft
oil-chain guard (beneath machine bed). Machine should
rest on all four cushion caps at four corners of machine
bed.
Remove machine hinge connection bracket, after
removing two bracket screws.
Insert hinge-connection in rear hinge-connection
hole in machine bed, with open side of connection UP.
Position connection bracket over hinge-connection.
To prevent "rocking" of machine during machine
starting and clamp lifting movements press bracket
down firmly and fasten with two bracket screws, se
curely.
TOP-PLATE
BELT GUARD
J HEX-HEAD \l f(\
.VSCREWS I \ IWl
^ IN MOUNTING HOLES
Fig. 1. Machine Base and Belt Guard
SEWING
MACHINE
CUSHION
CAPS\—
OIL-CHAIN
GUARD
CUSHION
— CAP
OIL RESERVOIR
CUSHION
CAP
Fig. 2. Positioning the Sewing Machine Head
HINGE
CONNECTION
BRACKET
BRACKET
SCREWS
II <3
HINGE
CONNECTION
.HOLE
'HINGE
CONNECTION
"OPEN-SIDE UP'
Fig. 3. Hinge Connection and Bracket
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INSTALLATION (Continued)
DRIVING STUD
SOCKET
SCREWS
RELEASING
LEVER
BRACKET
LEVER
1/8" TO 1/4"
CLEARANCE
ACTUATING
LEVER
BASE TOP PLATE
SOCKET
SCREW
LEVER
arm
GUIDE
PIN
Fig. 4. Cycling Switch Actuating Lever
TRIP
LEVER
BRACKET
ADJUSTING
SCREW
NUT
MANUAL
START-
LEVER
COLLAR.
SET
SCREW
1/2
PUSH ROD
BRACKET
MACHINE
STARTING
LEVER ROD
TRIP LEVER
HINGE
SCREW
MACHINE
STARTING
LEVER MANUAL
START-
LEVER
BRACKET
MOUNTING
BLOCK
SPRING
WASHER
MOUNTING
BRACKET
SOCKET SCREWS
^ AND LOCK WASHERS
LEFT EDGE
OF BASE PLATE
Fig. 5. Manual Start Lever and
Starting Lever Push Rod
CYCLING SWITCH ACTUATING LEVER: Position
cycling switch actuating lever on driving stud. Make
certain guide pin on releasing lever bracket passes
through guide hole in lever arm.
Check height of lever arm.Top surface of horizontal
section of lever arm should be approximately 1/8 to
1/4 inch below microswitch reset lever, as shown.
To adjust, loosen socket screw in cylindrical sectian
of lever arm and raise or lower arm, as required. Then
securely tighten socket screw.
MANUAL START-LEVER: Place manual start-lever
mounting bracket on base top-plate, with upright sec
tion of bracket facing the machine,
as shown below.
Fasten bracket securely with two socket screws and
washers, using tapped holes provided for
this purpose
in the top plate.
Assemble start-lever to bracket with hinge screw.
Upright section of start lever must face operator (at
front of unit). Start-lever should be mounted on left
face of upright section of bracket. Place coil of lever
spring around threaded portion of hinge screw and
tail end of spring hooked over rear section of start-lever
as shown. Place washer and nut on hinge screw, tight
ening nut to apply just enough tension on spring to
prevent start-lever from vibrating during operation of
unit.
STARTING LEVER PUSH-ROD: Place push-rod bracket
in position shown on base top-plate and, using tapped
holes provided in plate, fasten bracket to top-plate
with two socket screws.
Slip push-rod through manual start-lever collar and
insert push-rod in push-rod bracket as shown. Position
collar approximately 1/2 inch above top edge of start-
lever. There should be clearance between collar and
push-rod bracket when push-rod is at its lowest point.
Tighten set screw in collar securely.
Assemble push-rod adjusting screw and nut to top
end of push rod, as shown. Turn screw inward, approxi
mately 15 threads; leaving nut loose above push-rod,
for later adjustment.
Machine starting trip lever assembly should be
assembled on machine, as shown. If it is not, place
bracket mounting block, trip lever bracket and trip
lever in position as shown and fasten block to machine
bed with two socket screws. This block should be
positioned as far away from machine as its screw slots
will allow.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Adjust the push-rod adjusting screw so that It will
cause the trip lever to engage the machine starting
lever in the "RUN" position, providing on additional
1/32 inch overthrow when actuated by the indexing
unit's machine starting lever. When correct adjust
ment is obtained tighten adjusting screw nut shown in
Fig. 5, to retain this setting.
CLAMP LIFTING CABLE: Make certain that machine
is in "stop" position. (See Service Manual for sewing
machine.)
Connect lower thread cutting lever extension to
lower-thread cutting lever. Observe that mounting hole
in extension, shown in Fig. 7, is offset from centerline
to give mechanic a choice of either a "HIGH" or
"LOW" location of lifting coble connecting pin at
outer end of lever. Mounting hole con be positioned
above or below centerline by merely flipping extension
over, OS required. As it is usually correct to assemble
extension so that outer end is in the "LOW" position,
mounting hole should be positioned above the center-
line.
Depress lever extension, inserting it into slot at
top of clomp lifting safety device as shown in Fig. 6.
Align pin in safety device with second hole from outer
end of extension and insert connection pin.
Clomp lift should be set to obtain a 3/8 inch clear
ance under clamp check on machine. To adjust, loosen
cable lock-nut and thread the lift cable into or out of
plunger beneath the pressure cylinder. If sufficient
lift cannot be obtained even when cable is threaded
all the way into plunger, remove coble from plunger
and out of clomp lifting lever below base top plate.
Insert sufficient space washers above boll at bottom
end of coble to obtain correct range of adjustment and
replace cable up through clamp lifting lever and into
plunger. When correct setting is obtained, securely
tighten cable lock-nut.
HIGH POSITION
(MOUNTING HOLE BELOW CENTERLINE)
MOUNTING HOLES
LOW POSITION
(MOUNTING HOLE ABOVE CENTERLINE)
Fig. 6. Assembly of Lower Thread Cutting
Lever Extension
CUTTING LEVER EXTENSION
LOWER THREAD
CUTTING LEVER
PRESSURE
CYLINDER
PLUNGER
CABLE
LOCK-NUT
ADJUSTING
WASHERS
Fig. 7. Clomp Lifting Mechanism
CONNECTING
PIN
LESS W
LIFT i[j LIFT
MORE
BALL
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INSTALLATION (Continued)
TIGHT PULLEY
DRIVING BELT SHOULD BE
NEARLY PERPENDICULAR
Fig. 8, Pulley Alignment
LOOSEN TO ALIGN BELT TIGHTEN^ LOOSEN
MOTOR BRACKET \
REDUCTORv
FOUR ^
FASTENING
BOLTS K ^
TIGHTER
TIGHTER \\l
LOOSER
MOTOR
TURN
TO
ADJUST
BELT
TENSION
Fig, 9. Tightening the Belt
UPPER •j
CLOTH f
PLATE ]^
SOCKET
SCREWS
Fig. 10. Assembly Upper Cloth Plate
MACHINE DRIVING BELT: Motor is fastened to belt
tightener bracket with four nuts and bolts. Loosen
these four nuts and olign driving pulley on motor with
tight pulley on arm shaft of machine. Driving belt
should be as close to perpendicular as possible when
it is driving the tight pulley. Move motor toword right
or left along underside of belt tightener bracket, as re
quired, to obtain this setting. Then securely tighten
the four motor bolt nuts.
The correct tension of the machine driving belt
is obtoined by raising or lowering one end of the belt
tightener bracket, as required.
When first installed, a new belt is stiff and the
tension should be adjusted so that there is enough
stack to permit belt to curve slightly between motor
and machine pulleys. After a few days service, tension
should be increosed to a point where one side of belt
(but not both) can be pressed
1/2 inch out of a straight
line between pulleys. Too tight an adjustment wastes
power and causes unnecessary wear on a belt.
To adjust, loosen lock nut
shown in illustration of
belt tightener and adjusting nut below it to raise or
lower belt tightener, as required. When correct tension
on belt is obtained, securely tighten lock nut.
During adjustment of motor driving belt, it may be
necessary to disturb setting of reductor at side of
motor. Reductor may be moved toward left or right of
its mounting by loosening four fastening bolts.
After adjustments have been accomplished on
motor,
move reductor toward right or left to obtain correct
tension on its driving belt. Tension on this belt should
be similar to that required on machine driving belt.
Securely tighten four reductor fastening bolts.
UPPER CLOTH PLATE (ADJUSTABLE): Assemble
cloth plate to sewing machine, by means of two socket
screws shown.
USE OF EXPLODED VIEWS IN PARTS CHART: The
correct assembly, disassembly or general relationship
of other ports is shown in the parts chart for the com
plete electro-mechanical device
at the rear of this
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

LUBRICATION
Shut off main-power-switch before attempting any lubri
cation.
MOTOR: Usucily, no lubrication required. Follow in
structions on tog
attached to motor by manufacturer.
REDUCTOR (SPEED REDUCER): This unit is filled
with oil when it is installed in electro-mechanical
device. Follow instructions supplied by manufacturer
(Boston Gear Works, Tog F688-B) and included in
accessories. Every lOOO hours of operotion, check oil
requirements as indicated in instructions. When oil is
below level on check-plug, odd gear oil as needed. Use
600 gear oi I.
DO NOT APPLY OIL TO MAGNETIC CLUTCH: Main
shaft bearings are packed and do not need further
lubrication.
KEEP THE OTHER THREE CLUTCHES FILLED
WITH OIL: Once each month, remove oil plug from each
of the two over-running clutches on the bottom shaft
(the index clutch on the left end and the holding clutch
on the right end of this shaft) and apply a few drops of
sewing machine oil. Replace each oil plug. Milliard
clutch on middle shaft has a ball bearing plug. Merely
press oil can spout against boll, push in and apply
oil as needed.
WEEKLY LUBRICATION: Open left-front cover. Using
a small paint brush, apply #30 to #40 oil sparingly
on the following potts • - -
1. Cam shaft drive chain.
2. Cam shaft drive chain tightener sprocket.
3. Gripper chain (be sure to wipe off excess oil).
4. Front and rear sprocket bearings for gripper
chain (depress gripper 6inches manually to make
front bearing accessible).
5. Gripper slide rails.
Lubricate the following parts lightly with regular
sewing machine oil - • -
6. All cam follower bearings.
7. Indexing arm and shaft bearings.
8. Microswitch rollers and all other parts that come
in moving contact with one another, except mag
netic clutch. (See note above).
Ball bearing housings at both ends of each shaft,
should be kept packed with Ball Bearing Lubricant.
SEWING MACHINE: Follow lubricati on instructions
supplied with each sewing machine.
REDUCTOR
CHECK
PLUG
OIL
DRAIN
PLUG
F<g. 11. Lubrication Points, Speed Reducer (Reductor)
GRIPPER
MAGNETIC-
CLUTCH
DO NOT
OIL
INDEX ^
CLUTCH [y
OIL PLUG
ball
PLUG
sun milliard
IrfL CLUTCH
OIL PLUG
HOLDING
CLUTCH
PACK
WITH
BALL
[BEARING
/LUBRICANT
AT
BOTH
ENDS
OF EACH
SHAFT
Fig. 12. Lubrication Points
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STOP
STOP NOTCH
INTERLOCK
ROD
Fig. 13. Interlocking Rod in "Stop" Position Notch
RED DIAL-STOP
BLACK
COUNTER-ARROW
DIAL-STOP
BUTTON
(j
Fig. 14. Did Stop Setting
PRESS EMERGENCY
STOP BUTTON AT
ANY POINT IN CYCLE
5^
PRESS AUTO-START
BUTTON TO START
SEWING
EMERGENCY
CABINET
DOOR
10
MAIN
POWER
SWITCH
PRESS DRIVE START BUTTON
TO START MOTOR AND ENGAGE CLUTCH
Fig. 15. Power Control Switches
MACHINE AT REST; To prevent sewing machine from
starting, before you ore ready (or while work clamp is
raised), make certain that sewing machine is in"STOP"
position (interlocking stop rod, at rear-left of machine,
fully engaged in stop notch in com) as shown.
Normally, a machine will have recently finished a
complete cycle and should be ready to run again. If,
however, the unit has required attention since lost
operated or has not been left in normal "stop" position,
operator should summon the responsible mechanic to
check unit for operation and reposition it for starting.
LUBRICATION
AND THREADING: Prepare machine
for sewing, as instructed in Operator's Guide and in
Service Manual, furnished for your sewing machine.
Make certain that a well selected needle is correctly
inserted in needle bar and that machine is correctly
lubricated and threaded. Use 40/6 cord cotton thread
in needle and 80/3 cord cotton thread on bobbin.
SPEED: Sewing machine is designed to operate effi
ciently at recommended maximum speed. A new machine
should be run at a speed 500 stitches per minute LESS
than maximum, for the first 100 operating hours,
DIAL-STOP SETTING: Sewing machine is usually fitted
to sew 120 stitches for each buttonhole. When so fitted,
the overage paper bobbin will complete approximately
240 buttonholes.
After determining the number of buttonholes a full,
bobbin in use will actually sew, press dial-stop button
on control panel and set red dial-stop at this predeter
mined number. Release dial-stop button and set black
counter-arrow directly over red dial-stop.
POWER SWITCHES: Main-power-switch is a toggle
switch on switch box mounted at rear-top corner of
right side of cabinet. When this switch is snapped
toward rear, power is "ON" and main-power-start-
light (green) is lit.
Drive-start button is at bottom right corner of
control panel. When this button is pressed in, motor
starts and magnetic clutch engages; ready for sewing.
In any case of emergency, IMMEDIATELY PRESS
EMERGENCY STOP BUTTON, located just above
drive-start button on control panel. Then turn off main
power by snapping main-power toggle switch TOWARD
FRONT of unit.
n
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BUTTONHOLE SEWING
CABINET DOOR: Be sure cabinet door is closed before
starting to sew.
TO TURN ON POWER:
1. Push main-power toggle switch toward rear.
2. Depress drive-start push-button.
TO START SEWING:
1. Place garment under work clamp. Align facing
edge of garment with guiding edge of cloth plate
mounting block. Have bottom edge of garment
just touching cloth stop, as shown.
2. Close gripper jaws by pushing gripper lever to
the right, as shown.
3. Apply slight tension to garment, removing slock
between work clamp and gripper.
4.
Press AUTO-START button. Machine begins to
WHENSTITCHINGOF BUTTONHOLE IS COMPLETED,
knife descends to cut buttonhole and the work clamp
raises. Gripper is drawn downward in its slideway,
feeding garment to the next button position and another
buttonhole is started . . . automatically.
At completion of
cycle (garment buttonholes fin
ished), gripper jaws open and work clomp
raises to
releosegarment.
RE-LOAD NEXT GARMENT, same as described for
previous cycle, and press AUTO-START to begin
sewing again.
WHEN PRE-SET NUMBER OF BUTTONHOLES HAVE
BEEN SEWN, counter-arrow reaches "0" on dial at
top-left corner of control panel shown -in Fig. 16. At
this moment the RED PILOT LIGHT on panel lights
up, indicating "BOBBIN EMPTY", and machine stops.
AUTO-START button is now inoperative.
TO RE-START MACHINE WHEN RED LIGHT IS ON: ...
1. Remove empty bobbin and replace with full
bobbin.
2. Re-set black counter-arrow (see "DIAL-STOP
SETTING", on page 10).
3.
Moke certain garment is in position for sewing
and then —
4. Depress AUTO-START button.
PILOT
LIGHTS
G) IR
*
PUSH
BUTTON
PUSH-
•BUTTON
GREEN;
POWER
Fig, 16. Control Panel
CLOTH-STOP
GRIPPER (OPEN) WORK GUIDING EDGE
Qp ^^CLAMP OF MOUNTING
PUSH-^ I ^
LEVER
TOWARD RIGHT
TO CLOSE
GRIPPER
JAWS
Fig. 17. Ports Involved in Preparation for Sewing
1ST
BUTTONHOLE-
UPPER
CLOTH
PLATE
BOTTOM EDGE-
OF SHIRT
CLOTH STOP
FACING
EDGE
^OF SHIRT
WORK
-CLAMP
^GUIDING EDGE
iRIPPER
Fig. 18. Position of Shirt for First Buttonhole
2ND
BUTTONHOLE
WORK
CLAMP—
CLOTH STOP-
BOTTOM
EDGE
OF SHIRT-
®^^GUIDING EDGE
Fig. 19. Position of Shirt for Second Buttonhole
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

I
urinj
3 5
Jewing, m
a-
life
dot ;s NOT d
le-
, Op(
;ra tor then h
as
of bi ea k in sewi
ng
d bu
tto nhole, or
of
lole.
operate ho
nd
worl<: c lamp mov
es
jII rt ion ual starti
ng
will
complete i
in-
tical
ly
continue i
. 1
its
ole. pr.
ess index
ing
con1 •rol1panel...!
no-
cle. Tl-le unfinisi led
After setting lobe eccentricity, tighten two of the
six hex-head gib screws.
Test the spacing on sample piece of material. Make
"fine" adjustment by loosening the two gib screws,
just tightened in step 4, and turning large adjusting
screw at front end of slide by means of "T" wrench
supplied. Turn this screw clockwise for more space
or counter-clockwise for less space between button
holes. ONE COMPLETE TURN OF ADJUSTING
SCREW EQUALS 1/64 INCH OF SPACE.
Tighten all 6 gib screws and lock them in place
with their lock nuts.
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TO ADJUST FOR THE NUMBER OF BUTTONHOLES:
1. THROW MAIN POWER SWITCH IN SWITCH BOX
TO "OFF" POSITION.
2. Loosen two socket head screws in indexing stop
switch bracket slide and allow slide to sink to
lowest position in the slide rails..
3. Index the cloth gripper slide by hand to the posi
tion in the rails which properly locates the last
desired buttonhole in the sequence.
4. Raise the stop switch bracket slide until the
roller on the indexing microswitch is approx
imately
1-1/2" below the bottom edge of the cloth
gripper slide.
5. Retighten the two screws.
TO ADJUST CAM SHAFT BRAKE:—
The com shaft brake, located on the cam shaft be
tween microswitches 1 and 5, maybe
adjusted by means
of two spring loaded hex headed screws. Screws should
be tightened until an even drag is applied to the ro
tating shaft and the shaft rotates something less than
10 degrees after the stop bor engages the Milliard
clutch. Too little braking action will be recognized by
loud and
severe chattering caused by the partially en
gaged clutch driving against the solenoid stop bar. This
condition should be corrected immediately to prevent
clutch damage. Too much braking action places an un
necessary burden on driving mechanisms.
TO ADJUST OR CHECK AIR GAP ON STEARN'S
MAGNETIC CLUTCH:—
1. Rotate de-energized clutch until one adjusting
screw lines up with the adjusting hole provided
in the sprocket wheel.
2. Operate main power switch to on position and
depress the drive start button. This will mag
netize the clutch. (Subsequently de-energizing
and energizing may be accomplished by depress
ing and releasing
MS4 on the gripper track.)
3. When clutch is energized check air gap opposite
adjusting screw using abrass or copper .032"
gauge. Gauge should just slide into the gap
easily. If gop Is too tight or too loose, adjust
screw as required by use of a screw driver in
serted through hole in the sprocket wheel,
4. De-energize the clutch, (depress MS4) and rotate
clutch until next screw is in line with adjusting
hole. Proceed as above to adjust air gaps oppo
site the three adjusting screws.
5. Operate MS4 several times and observe action of
clutch, which should operate with a snap when
eneraized.
LAST BUTTONHOL
CLOTH
GRIPPER SLIDE^
I
BOTTOM EDGE\
ADJUST TO -
Fig. 24. Adjustrr
TIGHTEN
SCREWSUNTI L
AN EVEN DRAG
IS APPLIED
TO SHAFT
Fig. 25. Adju
INSERT .032"
BRASS GAUGE
OPPOSITE SCREW
ADJUST (3)-
SCREWS AS
REQUIRED
TO GIVE
UNIFORM
SPACING OF
.032"
STEARN'S
MAG
CLU
Fig. 26
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

I SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS AND FUNCTIONS |
1
OF ASSOCIATED ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS i
AUTO START
SWlTCHv
SWITCH & FUSE BOX
GREEN'
MAIN
® POWER
START
TRANSFORMER
THROW MAIN POWER SWITCH "ON'
TO
CONTACTOR
! R1
•-DRIVE START
BUTTON /
Fig. 27. Power Controls
MAIN
POWER
SWITCH
FUSE
PANEL
Before attemptimg any trouble-shooting or major
adjustments of
this device, it is essential that one
achieve athorough understanding of the basic functions
within the electrical circuits.
(A) POWER OFF (STARTING FROM "REST"
POSITION):
(1) When MAIN POWER switch is operated to ON
position,
the green pilot light, MAIN POWER
START, goes on, showing
that llOV trans
former is energized.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

TRANSFORMER
(2) Depressing DRIVE START button sets up
the following sequence: —
(a) Contactor R1 operates starting motor
through switches X, Y and Z and heat
coils in the thermal overload unit. (See
schematic diagram below).
(b) Contactor immediately locks up through
switch P so that when the button is re
leased, the power circuit is maintained.
R4
LEFT HAND
CONTACTS
M
RESET BAR-1^
Rl-^ I
CONTACTOR
TERMINAL
:
rectifier
The current through the contactor passes
through switches adjacent to bimetallic
elements in the thermal overload unit.
Heavy drains on the three phase 220V
circuit will momentarily distort these
elements and open the llOV circuits. The
circuit can then only be restored by oper
ating reset bar on the magnetic motor
starter R 1. See schematics and glossary
of symbols at back of manual.
(c) The magnetic clutch is also energized
through left hand contacts of Relay R4,
due to rectified current at terminals 19
and 20.
NOTE-Depressing the EMERGENCY STOP button
will open the contactor and cut off power to the
motor.
Fig. 28. Electrical Control Equipment
MAIN POWER
SWITCH (OPERATEO)
11_
SWITCH & FUSE BOX T. 6.
DRIVE START EMERGENCT
(DEPRESSED) STOP
U U —> 9 I 7
L3 Z
BIMETAL.
0. L-
SWITCH
£
RESET
U"'U mtKMAL
CONTACTOR OVERLOAD
(EHERCIZED) UNIT
MAGNETIC STARTER
LITTLE I
capacitorI
TERMINAL BLOCK
I
R4(DE-EHERGIZED)
DEPRESS DRIVE START BUTTON
MAGNETIC
CLUTCH
(ENERGIZED)
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

(2) The solenoid is energized through micro-
switch MSI and left hand contacts of R 2
Relay (now energized). As a result, stop bar
is
released from Milliard Clutch on indexing
com
shaft, allowing machine to start its
cycle toward the 1st stop position (the sew
position).
Fig. 32 shows the position of indexing cam
shaft as clutch reaches the 1st stop position
(sew position). The work clomp has been
brought down on garment through action of
lifting com mechanism. Sewing begins due
to tripping action of trip cam. push rod and
trip lever.
TRIP LEVER (TRIPPED)
LIFTING LEVER UP
(WORK CLAMP DOWN)
PUSH ROD
(UP POSITION)
TRIP CAM
(TRIP POSITION)
CAM 2
(OPERATING MS 5)
MILLIARD CLUTCH
(SEW POSITION)
REST
POSITION
SEW
POSITION
STOP BAR
SOLENOID
Fig, 32. Position of Indexing Com Shaft and Associated
Controls as Machine is Tripped to Sew.
(3) MS 1opens as soon as cam 1 releases it.
This de-energizes solenoid, releasing stop
bar and freeing it to engage clutch and stop
rotation at 1st stop position (sewing posi
tion).
(C) SEW FIRST BUTTONHOLE, 1ST STOP POSI
TION, AND ADVANCE TO NEXT.
(1) Microswitch
MS 5 is now operated by the
second actuating cam on index cam
shaft
following along 120® behind first cam. This
sets up a circuit condition through coil wind
ings of
R3 and impulse switch permitting
them to be energized when microswitch MS2
is later tripped by knife mechanism,
as but
tonhole is cut.
220V 111 M10V
TRANSFORMER
ORIVE
START
EMERGENCY
STOP
P
•fbr
16( I
-tt-Nr
0. L. SWITCHES
R1CONTACTOR
j (ENERGIZED)
IS NORMALLY OPEN CONTACTS
CLOSED BY CAM 2 AT 1ST
STOP POSITION (SEW)
wtmoN
R3 DE-ENERGIZED
SOLENOIOL
(DE-a<ERGIZED)
CLUTCH
1ST STOP
POSITIDN(SEW)
IMPULSE
SWITCH
CIRCUIT CONDITION AT SEW POSITION
17
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS AND FUNCTIONS (Continued)
ACTUATING LEVER
MS 2
Fig. 33. Microswitch MS 2 and Actuating
Lever
BUTTONHOLE SPACING
CAM AND PITMAN
MAGNETIC CLUTCH
CING
CLUTCH
R
GRIPPER
BLOCK
MS 4
GRIPPER
SPROCKET
BLOCK ON
SPROCKET
MS 3
Fig. 34. Front View of Cabinet (open)
3
18
f -i_i'
0. L. SWITCHES
n —
KSS(HELDOPERATED „
BY CAM 2 ON IKDEXIHG fJj'JACTOR
CAM SHAFT^URING (EKERGI2ED)
SEWINGOPERATION)
RJ ENERGIZED
Rl
MS2 (CLOSED BY
ACTION OF KNIFE
mechanism)
osisaO—
IMPULSE
SWITCH
(ENERGIZED.
STEPS ONE POS.)
I
HILLIARO CLUTCH ^ .
(RELEASED.STARTS
SHAFT ROTATION.)
STOP BAR
RELEASED FROM SEW
8 POSITION
SOLENOID (ENERGIZED)
CIRCUIT CONDITION AFTER KNIFE
CUTS HOLE.
(2) Microswitch MS2 is now operated by cycling
switch actuating lever during cutting opera
tion. The impulse count switch coil, now en
ergized, actuates aratchet and pawl mech
anism advancing external indicator one point
toward zero. (When the indicator reaches
zero, red BOBBIN EMPTY indicator is on
and the auto start switch will no longer
initiate the cycle. See later discussion.)
(3) SimultaneouslyR3energizes solenoid through
its right hand contacts. The Milliard clutch
is released; starting acomplete rotation of
the index cam shaft back to the first position
(sew). During rotation the clomp lifts and
garment is advanced to the next buttonhole
location, by the action of buttonhole spacing
cam and pitman and the buttonhole spacing
clutch, which together rotate the gripper
chain sprocket.
HILLIARO CLUTCH
SEW POSITION
REST POSITION
CAM 1
MSI
SOLENOID
Fig. 35. Indexing Cam Shaft (Rest Position)
NOTE: Cam 1 must be accurately timed to operate
MSI and energize solenoid to cause the
Milliard clutch to pass through the REST
POSITION. Otherwi se the cycle would stop
at the REST POSITION with the clomp up.
This action repeats for each buttonhole.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

(1) When the last buttonhole in the sequence is
completed the gripper carrier block starts to
space but mokes contact and closes micro-
switch MS4. This energizes relay R4 which
momentarily locks up through MS3 and right
hand
contacts of relay R 4.
NOTE: M$3 is normally
closed and is only open at
final rest position.
As a result of the opening of the left hand
contacts of relay R4, relay R2 and the
magnetic clutch are de-energized.
(2) Return to REST POSITION.
De-energizing the magnetic clutch allows
gripper block to return to start position due
to action of gravity on counterweight. The
gripper chain sprocket
also returns to its
start position. The block on sprocket now
opens microswitch, MS3 and de-energizes
R4. Current now flows through left bond
contacts of R4, energizing magnetic clutch.
Since R2 is open and solenoid is de-ener
gized the indexing cam shaft is stopped at
rest position due to engagement of the stop
bar.
MS 1 is depressed and held closed by
cam 1 providing proper conditions for a new
sequence.
After a pre-set number of buttonholes are
sewn, the buttonhole counter coil returns
block counter arrow to zero. The circuit
through the auto start switch is broken and
RED EMPTY BOBBIN panel light is on. The
machine is now inoperative until operator
replaces empty bobbin with a filled one and
resets black counter arrow. This extinguishes
red panel light and throws control back to
auto start button.
As a further aid in understandi ng the
electrical functions, o wiring diagram, com
plete schematic and glossary of electrical
symbols is provided at the back of this man-
220V ^ fnov
—r\—cL
EMERGENCr
STOP
2.9 9
DRIVE START j
(HORMAUY CLOSED
OPERATED
ar BLOCK ON
CRIPPER SPfiOaET AT
.STARTING POSITION)
J MSA
-9—' (CLOSED BT
GRIPPER BLOCK)
0. L. SWTiCHES R1 U lo
CONTACTOR U
IEHERCI2E0)
ft U
R2 DE-ENERCIZED
TO
MAGNETIC
CLUTCH (DE-ENERGIZED.)
CIRCUIT CONDITION AT FINAL INDEX
R4 RIGHT HAND R2
CONTACTS I
U R3 RIGHT
® CONTACTS
Fig, 36. Control Relays
iMiiiaW IB^mi
\
BLACK COUNTER
ARROW AT ZERO
Fig. 37. Control Panel
(Counter at Zero)
EMERGENCY
STOP
7 2,9 9
O.L. SWITCHES RlU
CONTACTOR
(ENERGIZED)
AUTO START SWITCH ! "
(NO CONTROL) | j, ^ I
IS I
O® ' COUNTER AT 9
R2 (OE-ENERGIZED) ^ ZERO POSITION
IMPULSE COUNT SWITCH
CIRCUIT CONDITION, COUNTER AT ZERO
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

TROUBLE SHOOTING :
GREEN PILOT
LIGHT SHOULD
BE LIT WHEN
POWER SWITCH
IS TURNED ON
[•'•""'"-•I
iHitSiflj lEBMI
Fig. 38. Power Indicator Light
MAIN
FUSES^ loM.
fiffiriT®
Fig. 39. Switch and Fuse Box
PRESSING RESET BAR RESTORES CIRCUIT
mim
THERMAL
Fig. 40. Thermal Overload Unit and Reset Bar
(Terminal Box Open)
TROUBLE CONDITION:
NO APPARENT ELECTRICAL POWER.
Main power start indicator bulb does not light.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
(1) Main power start indicator bulb defective.
(2) Main fuse or fuses blown from power line over
load.
(3) Thermal overload switch operated.
(4) No power from main line.
CORRECTION:
(1) Replace light bulb (GE 44).
(2) Replace defective fuse (FRN-4) or fuses in
fuse box.
(3) Any trouble in the unit which places asevere
load on the motor will develop a critical tem
perature rise in heater coils of R1, (thermal
overload unit) thus causing the opening of
protective switches in the thermal unit. The
circuit may be restored in this case by pressing
the reset bar on the thermal overload unit.
(4) Check outlet with voltage indicator. In case
proper voltage is available check power cord
and plug for
possible defects. If voltage is not
available or of proper value at outlet, take
appropriate action to have it restored.
CAUTION:
The blowing of fuses or the opening of protective
switches, should be viewed with suspicion.
Before circuits ore restored oil wiring should be
checked for possible shorts, etc. and mechanical
features should be examined in detail
TROUBLE CONDITION:
INDEX UNIT WILL NOT MOVE.
Cycle incomplete. Buttonhole completed and cut.
Work clamp raised. Finished buttonhole still beneath
clamp.
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC