Superfly RC V3 User manual
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Thank you for purchasing the SuperFly V3! The SuperFly has been
designed to fly extremely well in a wide range of speeds all while using
reasonably priced equipment. One of the features of this plane is its light
weight. Please don’t load this plane up with heavy batteries or lots of paint! If
you build it according to the instructions you will have tons of fun and learn
what is possible with the SuperFly!
Parts list:
1. (2) High Density EPP wing halves
2. (2) Vertical Stabilizers made from foam sheet between wings
3. (2) EPP Elevons
4. (1) Pre-cut EPP Canopy
5. (1) Brushless Outrunner Motor (15 amps MAX)
6. (1) Motor Mounting Stick
7. (2) 8x6 HD props
8. (2) Pushrods
9. (2) Control Horns
10. (1) Assembly Instructions
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SuperFly RC and its employees are not responsible for damage or injury caused by the use or misuse of its products.
(1) GWS 8X6 Prop
If your kit is missing any parts or you have ANY questions about the build, feel free to
Required Items:
1. (1) Radio with Elevon Mixing
2. (1) Micro Receiver
3. (2) Micro Servos .5 oz or less each
4. (1) 15 amp Brushless Electronic Speed Control (ESC)
5. (1) 2 cell 7.4v 1200-1500 mah Lipo Battery. Must handle 11 amps
continuous. BATTERY SHOULD WEIGH BETWEEN 2.0 and 2.6 oz
6. (1) 2 cell Lipo Battery Charger
7. Connectors of your choice for battery and speed control
Required Building Materials:
1. Low Temp Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
2. Razor Blades for cutting foam
3. Straight Edge
4. Ruler
5. Your choice of spray paint. Does NOT have to be foam safe.
6. Soldering Equipment
Tips and Hints:
Batteries:
1. Please real all information included with Lipo Batteries and chargers.
2. Only charge a Lipo Battery with a Lipo charger.
3. NEVER leave batteries unattended while charging
Current:
This setup will pull around 10.9 amps at wide open throttle with the
recommended equipment.
Launching:
Hold the plane by the leading edge and launch it out and up at a 45 degree
angle. Use part or full throttle and hold a little UP elevator.
Always fly in accordance with your local and national clubs rules.
Assembly Instructions
1. Remove wing halves and
elevons from large block of
foam. Save scraps for repairs.
2. Save the sheet of foam from
between the wing halves.
3. Gently rub wing halves
together to remove any slag.
Same with elevons.
4. Glue wing halves together with hot glue on a
flat surface. Flat side of wing down.
5. Cut a slot in the plane 5” forward from the trailing edge of the plane at the
midline. 9” wide by2” long.
6. Place elevons along the trailing
edge of the plane. The angle on the
elevons goes down.
7. Cut ends of elevons as shown.
Thin end of elevon goes towards
wing tip.
5”
9”
2”
Top of wing
Bottom of wing
Tip: Elevon size is not super critical and can be cut to suit builder preference.
8. S u per F l y R C Hot Glue Hinge Method: (you may want to
practice this step on some foam scraps first) Line up elevon (with 45 degree bevel
facing down) along trailing edge of plane, make sure there is no gap at the hinge
line. Quickly apply a 2” long 1/8” wide bead of hot glue along the hinge line. Be
sure the bead covers the elevon and trailing edge of the plane. Very quickly while
the glue is still hot flatten out the bead with a new razor blade. This flattens out the
bead and pulls the heat out of the glue so it sets quicker. Repeat this process until
the entire length of the hinge is complete. Hinge the other elevon using the same
method. Flattened bead should be less than ¼” wide or elevon will be difficult to
move. Once glue has cooled flex elevon up and down to loosen hinge.
9. Cut (2) vertical stabilizers
(fins) as shown on the template.
10. Position fins just on the outside of
the prop slot with the long slope facing the
nose of the plane. The back end of the fin
should be 1” forward from the elevon
hinge line.
11. Use the Vertical Stabilizer Angle
Template and glue fins in place. Fins
should tilt out towards the wingtips. You
will need to cut or sand an angle on the
bottom of the fin.
12. You may paint the plane at this time. Only paint the top side of the leading
edge. More paint then that will add unnecessary weight.
Drag blade
this direction
Tip: The shape of the vertical stabs can be
cut to suit builder preferences. The
shape is not of critical importance.
13. Install motor on stick as shown. Secure
with small screws.
14. Install prop on motor with the small
numbers facing the motor and the nose of the
plane. Hold prop shaft with pliers while
tightening. DO NOT HOLD MOTOR.
15. Glue motor assembly onto top of plane
as shown. Prop should be centered in cutout.
16. Hot Glue Control Horns onto elevon as shown. Horn should line up just to
the inside of the fin when viewed from the back and when viewed from the side the
holes should line up over the hinge line. Use plenty of glue all around the base!
17. Cut 1” off bare end of pushrod. New total pushrod length (NOT
INCLUDING CLEVIS) should be 11” Next, make a “Z” bend on the end.
An unused control horn screw
works perfect for mounting
the motor to the stick!
NOTE: Latest kits are shipping with a prop saver rather than a prop shaft. Install of the
motor remains the same as follows. The new motor needs only be removed from the base
mount to the stick mount.
18. Install ”Z” bends into servo arms
and clevis onto control horn.
Center servo arms and position
servos so that the pushrod almost
touches the inside of the fins.
Elevons should be flat on the
bench.
19. Mark where servo goes and cut or melt out enough foam to fit the servo.
Glue in place with hot glue.
20. Solder speed control wires to motor. If motor runs backwards simply
switch any two wires to the motor.
21. Solder connector to speed control and battery. Double check polarity.
22. Plug speed control and servos into receiver. Follow your transmitters
manual for proper elevon setup. (Futaba/Hitec users: CH 1 = R. servo, CH
2= L. servo, CH 3= Throttle)
23. Paint canopy black and allow to dry.
24. Glue speed control to plane next to motor mounting stick.
25. Glue receiver on other side. The back end of the canopy will cover these
parts. OR You may glue these parts under the back of the canopy.
Secure extra wire with hot glue or zip ties. Antenna goes along the outside
of right fin and back.
26. Make sure wires do not touch the
motor.
27. Center of Gravity (CG) is 9.5”
back from the tip of the nose on
the underside of the plane.
(9.25”-9.75” range)
28. To set the CG you must place the
battery in the canopy slot and
temporarily set everything in place.
You will need to move the canopy
(with battery installed) back or
forward to get the plane to balance
on the 9.5” mark. Once the plane
balances make a mark where the
canopy should go. Remove the
battery then glue the canopy in
place. Press canopy down firmly
around the nose of the plane. Make
sure there are no gaps under the nose of the canopy.
29. Set control throws for 1.5” up and 1.5” down. You may adjust them later to
suit you flying style.
30. Make sure LEFT IS LEFT and RIGHT IS RIGHT. Now is the time to find
that out!
31. Make sure left and right elevons deflect the same amount at full UP elevator
and full DOWN elevator. Check this often as any difference will cause the
airplane to roll out of loops.
32. Set elevon trim for 1/8” UP trimto begin with. Double check 9.5” CG!!
F l y i n g t he S u per F l y
Try the Harrier move! Slow the plane down and slowly pull almost full UP elevator while
applying more power to get the plane to fly very slowly with the nose pointed up. This is lots
of fun with some practice and the plane can be flown at less then walking pace! You will need
a lot of control throw to do this so increase your throws as you become more comfortable with
the plane then you will be ready for the Harrier high alpha flight! Now try it inverted!!!!
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