Uhrenbausatz Mechanica M2 User manual

The Book on the Clock
Instruction Manual,
Development, and Technology of
the Precision Table Clock
Mechanica M2

1
The Book on the Clock
First Edition
Precision Table Clock
Mechanica M2
Instruction Manual,
Development, and Technology

2 3
Make your own personal piece of history
cherry wood – standard dial – nickel bezel walnut – standard dial – bronze bezel painted black – modern standard dial – nickel bezel maple – dial with cutaway – nickel bezel

4 5
Foreword
Congratulations on the acquisition of this exceptional kit. I am
completely certain that you will experience the fascination of the
technology of classic watchmaking when you put together your
Mechanica M2 precision table clock.
Especially in the whirl of these hectic times characterized by
computers and anonymity, more and more people are once again
finding joy in the art of mechanical clock- and watchmaking.
The uniform ticking of the clock emanates a soothing atmosphere
of peace in any room. This fascination combined with the easily
comprehensible mechanical processes of horology are what led me
to christen this clock with the Latin name Mechanica.
Our company can boast more than twenty years of experience in
precision clockmaking, having manufactured more than 7,000 time-
pieces during this time period. One of our main concerns has always
been to foster the values and craftsmanship that have unfolded
in the art of classic clock- and watchmaking and additionally
evolve it on our own using means that are at our disposal today.
This know-how—our machine-controlled CNC*machinery—is what
makes such a fully new design and the use of contemporary
materials possible for this project.
The first 600 Mechanica M1 owners have heavily contributed to the
continuous process of improvement for this unique do-it-yourself
idea with their interest and suggestions. The grand success of the
precision pendulum*clock Mechanica M1 and numerous requests
from horologically interested parties have encouraged us to add
a precision table clock to the family of kits.
The Mechanica M2 kit comprising 73 movement components and 62
case parts is conceived so that it can be assembled without problem
even by those who are less experienced in the technology of fine
timepieces. Your Mechanica M2 possesses the same high quality
technical elements as a Sattler precision movement.
For those who would like to continue reading about the secrets of
a precision mechanical clock, the second chapter of this book,
»Technology and Workings of the Mechanica M2,« provides this
opportunity.
Valuable clocks are true ornaments for every room and the pride
of their owners, especially if the clock has been assembled by the
owner—like this one will be.
I wish you a great deal of joy assembling your Mechanica M2 and
then finely adjusting it. A clock of this quality will outlive all of us
and will be proudly handed down from generation to generation.
Cordially yours,
Richard Müller
Friends of Horology!

7
Many thanks!
Iam indebted to all those who
have contributed to this book.
Manufacture of the mechanics:
The watchmakers and master watchmakers,
lathe operators, millers, and precision engineers
of the Erwin Sattler clock manufacture
Manufacture of the cases:
Josef Wochner in Heiligenzimmern, Germany
Movement design and texts:
Jürgen Kohler, Erwin Sattler OHG
Concept, layout, texts:
Gerald Puchbauer, Erwin Sattler OHG
Photos, graphics:
Atelier Schrader, Gräfelfing, Germany
Responsible for the idea and its realization:
Richard Müller,
Stephanie Sattler-Rick
Erwin Sattler OHG
Token charge: 25 euros

II. Technology
and Workings 57
Introduction 58
The Development of the Escapement 59
Verge escapement 59
Cylinder escapement 60
Chronometer escapement 60
English Lever escapement 61
Swiss lever escapement 62
Set-Up of the Mechanica M2 63
The Escapement 64
The Balance Spring 65
The Balance 68
The Escapement 71
Functional Movement of the Escapement 73
Determination of Rate Precision 76
Regulating the Timepiece 77
Impulse and Gear train 78
Impulse 78
The Click 80
The Gear train 80
The Dial train 84
Technical Information of the Mechanica M2 85
Equipment: the Passion Continues 86
A Role Model for the Mechanica M2 88
Mechanica M1 90
Glossary 91
Appendix 105
8 9
Table of Contents
Equipment N
Equipment N
Equipment N
Equipment N
Equipment N
The Mechanica M2 2
Foreword 4
Table of Contents 8
I. Instruction Manual 11
Important Information before Beginning 12
Oiling the Case 16
Surface Treatment of the Natural Wood Case 17
Assembling the Case 20
Faceted Mineral Glass Panes 21
Using the Tools 28
Assembling the Movement 30
Assembly of the Back Plate 32
Finely Polished Set of Screws 32
Assembling the Gear train 34
Preparation and Assembly of the Front Plate 35
Assembling the Dial train 40
Test Record for Gear train 42
Assembling the Escapement 43
Escapement with Screw balance 43
Testing the Escapement 45
Adding the Standard Dial 46
Handmade Set of Hands 48
Polished Stainless steel Hands 48
Pierced Dial 49
Square Dial 50
Putting the Movement into the Case 51
Putting your Mechanica M2 into Motion 52
Regulating your Mechanical M2 53
Care and Maintenance 54
Removing the Movement 55
Disassembling the Movement 56

10 11
CHAPTER I
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
MECHANICA M2

Zubehör N
12 13
Before the thrill of anticipation overtakes you and you begin
assembling your Mechanica M2, we request that you carefully
read the following information.
Your Mechanica M2 is a precision table clock*, which means the
individual components have been manufactured with the utmost
precision at very low production tolerances.
In order to avoid damaging the somewhat sensitive components,
we recommend you use great care in unpacking and assembling
the parts.
The sequence of steps explained in the instruction manual was
designed to save you unnecessary difficulty and ensure that all
goes smoothly.
Assembly instructions for numerous other possible options are listed
as »variations« near each of the steps and clearly marked as such so
you can differentiate them.
A clear listing of the accessory equipment with short descriptions
currently available to technically and visually upgrade your
Mechanica M2 can be found at the end of this book on pages 86-87.
In the assembly instructions and explanatory remarks, we have
decided to refrain from using technical jargon as far as possible.
Technical words that could not be avoided are explained in the
glossary at the end of this book. These are marked with an asterisk*
in the text.
The assembly of your Mechanica M2 is clearly divided into
three levels and organized into numbered compartments.
The corresponding numbers are also specified on each of the
components, tools, and auxiliary accessories so they can be easily
located. An overview of the levels’ numbers can be found on the
packing list and the illustration at right.
Important Information
before Beginning
Safety Precaution:
Your precision
table clock kit
contains quickly
moving parts.
In order to avoid
danger of injury,
please take note of all
safety precautions
and advice!
Top Level
Center Level
Lower Level
PBase plate
PSeat-board
PLid of secret compartment
PInlay tile for secret compartment
PFront side bars (one with drilled hole for fastening hook)
PBack side bars (each with two glass grooves)
PAssembled door
PDoor seal

14 15
We begin with the case,
which, if it is the natural wood version, must first be varnished with
the maintenance product that came in the kit. It is important to make
sure that the room you are working in is well ventilated. In order to
avoid the possible danger of setting fire to yourself, only store the
polishing cloth inundated with oil closed in the jar delivered with your
kit. During the time the case needs to dry out, you can carefully and
tranquilly read through the rest of the process here.
Please be very careful when you assemble the case as it is entirely
possible to injure yourself with the glass panes.
Carefully prepare your workspace before continuing with the
assembly of the movement. It needs to be kept clean and should
be outfitted with a good light. The components have been cleaned
by us and packed up cleanly and carefully. In order to avoid
unnecessary soiling, please only take the parts out of the packaging
right before you need to use them. Take a good look at them and
make sure they are not damaged in any way.
The ball bearings*intended to bear the Gear train*are crafted
in Stainless steel*; so that they attain the least possible amount of
friction*, they are not sealed. Thus, these parts should be protected
from dust and small dirt particles during assembly.
The steel arbors*of the gear wheels are not coated with anything
and can rust. The material they are crafted in was chosen with regard
to hardness and longevity. These wheels should therefore only
be handled for assembly when wearing the gloves found in this kit
and should be picked up only by the teeth of the gold-plated wheel*
or by grasping the arbor*of it with tweezers.
Important Information
before Beginning
Should one of the gear wheels fall, please take a close look at the
teeth using the included loupe. A slight imperfection or crooked
tooth can impede the easy turning of the Gear train*. A component
that has been damaged in this way must be replaced.
Please take care not to injure yourself with the needle of the oil syrin-
ge found in the kit. For this reason, please make sure that it remains
out of reach of children.
When unscrewing the dial, you also run a certain risk of scratching its
surface. Thus, we would like to remind you here again to proceed
with great care. The dial is indeed the face of your Mechanica M2.
Should you have any problems assembling your precision clock or
getting it to run, please give us a call.
You can reach us during the week from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm CET
at the following number:
+49 (0)89 / 8955 806-20
Safety Precaution:
Due to danger
of injury with
the sharp-edged
mainspring,
the Spring barrel
may not be
opened.

16 17
Oiling
the Case
Safety Precaution:
When working with
the glass, please
remember at all
times that there is
danger of injury.
Safety Precaution:
Oil your case only
in well ventilated
rooms. In order
to avoid ignition,
store the oil-soaked
wool cloth only in
the jar included
in your kit and keep
it closed.
The oil that came in your kit is a product created on a natural basis.
Despite this, proceed working on the following steps in a room
that is well ventilated.
Surface treatment of the natural wood case
The case of your Mechanica M2 is crafted in solid wood.
With the exception of the black painted version, these cases are all
untreated and must be varnished with the oil that came in your kit.
This surface treatment protects the wood from moisture, beautifully
brings out the natural texture of the woods and has the advantage
of allowing damage to the surface to be reworked and rectified at
any time without problem.
The oil made by Auro is based on a linseed oil and also contains tree
sap and natural waxes. It is thus ecologically sound.
Tools
Components
If you have decided to purchase the black case variation,
you can begin directly with the assembly of the case.
The following instruments
are included to work the surface of the
natural wood case in a competent manner:
◊Auro natural oil Compartment (31)
◊Polishing cloth Compartment (36)
◊Steel wool Compartment (34)
◊Standard screwdriver Compartment (13)
You will find the case components
in the packaging’s bottom level.
Get the following components ready for surface treatment:
◊Base plate Bottom level
◊Seat-board Bottom level
◊Cornice (top part) Bottom level
◊Cover for secret compartment Bottom level
◊Two sidebars for front Bottom level
◊Two sidebars for back Bottom level
◊Door (assembled) Bottom level
Before you begin with the oiling,
you must dissemble the case door.
The door glass is pushed from the top into a groove within the frame
and secured by a screw-mounted lock rail. First unscrew the two
screws on the inside of the upper door bar and pull off the lock rail.
Carefully push the door glass out of the groove and keep it in the
case level of the packaging to avoid breaking.

18 19
Oiling
the Case
Assembling
the Case
Let’s go The best way to proceed with oiling the case is as follows:
In order to avoid dirtying your workspace, cover it with cardboard or
unprinted paper since the oil is very hard to remove once it has dried.
The case components are already sanded and ready to be oiled.
Please use the wool cloth delivered in this kit to introduce the oil to
the wood.
Rub each case part with the oil. After about 20 minutes the wood
should have absorbed the oil. In the places where the oil is still
clearly pooling on the surface, please remove it with the cloth.
Now allow the treated wood parts to dry for 12 to 24 hours
and the oil to set.
When the surfaces feel dry to the touch, you can use the steel wool
to smooth them one more time before applying the oil a second time
since the oil stimulates the wood fibers and they stand out slightly.
The smoother the surfaces are before being oiled, the more
beautiful your case will look later.
In order to remove the wood fibers, it is enough to lightly go over the
surfaces with the steel wool during the intermediate sanding.
Oil the case the second time the same way
you did it the first time.
Since the wood is no longer as absorbent, take special note of the
spots where the oil did not fully settle in to the wood. Oil your case
only in well aired rooms.
If your lighting is good, you will be able to easily recognize these
spots. Now allow the case parts to dry for at least 24 hours before
assembling them.
The surfaces should be dry and no longer feel sticky. If you have the
feeling that the surfaces would still easily take on oil, you can treat
them a third time after sanding again.
Tip:
Leave the case
enough time to dry
thoroughly.
To do this, place it
in a warm, dry
and well ventilated
location.

20 21
Assembling
the Case
Tools
Components
Get the following tools ready
for assembling the case:
◊Watchmaker’s screwdriver Compartment (13)
◊Standard screwdriver Compartment (13)
◊Allen key 4 mm Compartment (13)
◊Oil syringe Compartment (13)
Alongside the wood parts you have already oiled,
the entire case also comprises
the following components:
◊Inlaid tile Bottom level
◊2 x side glass panes Compartment (40+41)
◊Glass pane for back Compartment (39)
◊Door seal Bottom level
◊2 x hinge pins Compartment (24)
◊2 x round-head screws 2 x 12 Compartment (24)
◊Fastening hook Compartment (24)
◊Spacer washer Compartment (24)
◊2 x hinge bushing Compartment (24)
◊8 x case screws, cylinder head
allen screws M5 x 30 Compartment (25)
◊8 x washers Compartment (25)
◊4 x case feet Compartment (3)
◊8 x countersunk-head screws 2.5 x 8 Compartment (3)
◊4 x felt insert Compartment (16) Tip:
To ensure the
proper look, put the
strips for the side
glass panes in the
front panels.
The case door is assembled first.
Slide the door glass back into the groove in the case door. Put the
lock rail in the groove. The upper edges of the lock rail and the case
door should be even. Then screw the lock rail from the back using the
two countersunk-head screws.
Slide the two hinge pins into the drillings on the front sides of the
upper and lower door panels.
In order to keep the door closed later, screw the round-head screw
2 x 12 into the drilled hole of the left door panel so that it sticks out
about 3-4 mm. This is the screw upon which the fastening hook will
hook into later.
NZubehör
Faceted mineral glass panes
To individually optimize the look of the case, we offer an alternative
to the standard glass panes: A set of faceted*mineral glass panes.
These can be used instead of the standard panes. It is important to
ensure that the facets are always on the outside. The faceted panes
are somewhat thinner on their edges and thus may have some room
to move in the grooves. To avoid this (and the sounds they make),
each set of panes also comes with rubber strips. These strips can be
placed in the glass groove of the case using tweezers.

22 23
Assembling
the Case
Glue the door seal on the front sidebar.
In order to protect the movement
from dust entering later, the case
is outfitted with door seals. Cut
the adhesive seal that came in
your kit to the right length and
pull the protective foil off the back
as shown in the illustration. The
sealing lamella that came in the kit
comprises three layers. As shown
in the illustration, the actual
piece of rubber is accompanied by
double-sided tape covered by protective foil on the outside. To add
the rubber to the case, you must make absolute certain that you only
pull off the protective foil. In order to do this, it is best to first only
bend a piece of the foil on one corner. Only pull on this after you
have ascertained that the adhesive strip still remains securely glued to
the rubber.
Add the gasket strip to the long recess of the front sidebar without
stretching it. Please make sure that the opening of the v-shaped seal
points toward the inside of the case when the case has been fully
assembled. Otherwise, the seal may stick when the door is opened.
Now pre-assemble the bottom and the cornice.
Push the hinge bushings into their drilled holes in the bottom and
cornice plates. Using the oil syringe included, put a drop of watch oil
in each bushing.
When doing this, please pay attention to the tips for using the tools
found on pages 28-29 of this book.
Cover the hidden drawer in the cornice with an adhesive inlaid tile.
Pull the protective foil from the back of the tile and position it within
the recess. Push on it well to make it stick flat.
Door seal
Double-sided
adhesive strip
Protective foil

24 25
Assembling
the Case
Adding the hinge hooks.
Now add the hinge hooks to the bar using the corresponding drilled
hole. If the glass groove is facing behind, the hole in the bar should
be to the left. The hook should be assembled so that it later closes
the door from above. Put the spacer washer on the drilled hole,
place the fastening hook on top of that, and then securely screw the
components together using the oval-head screw 2 x 12 so that
the hook can just be turned.
Assembly of the side bars on the base plate.
Screw the sidebars and base plate using the cylinder head Allen
screws M5 x 30 and the corresponding washers. The back sidebars
each have two glass grooves and are assembled so that the recesses
lie on the base plate facing inward to allow the later addition of the
seat-board. The two front side bars (each with one glass groove) are
also added this same way. It is important to note that the bar with
the hinges is added on the left. Please make sure that the recess lies
on top of the base plate toward the inside of the case.
Suggestion:
The side bar
with the fastening
hook goes on
the left side.
Adding the glass.
Now slide the side glass panes and the pane for the back into the
grooves of the side bars and base.
Adding the cornice.
Here it is best to put the pre-assembled case down on your
workspace. Before adding the pre-assembled case doors, put the
hinge pin into the bushing of the base. Make sure that when you
add the cornice, both the four wood pins of the side bars as well as
the upper hinge pin in its corresponding bushing find their way into
the corresponding drilled holes of the cornice. The cornice is
screwed on using four Allen cylinder head screws M5 x 30 and the
corresponding washers.
Recesses for
the seat-board

26 27
Assembling
the Case
Adding the case’s feet.
Lock the case door using the fastening hook and turn the case
around and put it on its head to screw the feet on. The cornice
should be touching your workspace. Put the four square case feet
with the through-holes on top of the corresponding drilled holes
of the floor plate. Secure the feet using two countersunk-head
screws 2.5 x 8 and then furnish with a felt insert.
Putting the casing cover on the secret compartment.
Finally, turn the finished case back around so that it’s on its feet and
put the casing cover on the secret compartment. To secure its position,
the casing cover is outfitted with two magnetized fasteners on the left
and right sides. The little groove on the long end of the cover is there
to make taking the cover off easier and should be positioned toward
the back.
Suggestion:
For the following
steps of the
procedure, use
something like
the lid of the
packaging your M2
came in or a piece
of paper as your
underlay in order
to avoid scratching
the high-quality
case.
Now the case is completely assembled.
You should have the following components left unassembled of your
case: the seat-board with its Allen cylinder-head screws and washers.
The movement will later be added to the seat-board, placed inside the
case and secured there.

28 29
Using
the Tools
Cheerfully getting back to work, don’t forget to handle the special
tools included in this kit in a suitable manner.
The syringe serves to dose the oil properly for the ratchet
wheel*. Avoid »bathing« the components in oil. The Gear train*runs
completely on ball bearings and needs no oil.
This is how you lubricate
properly: carefully push on the
plunger of the syringe until a
small drop of oil builds on the
needle. Only then do you move
the needle to the place to be
oiled and brush the drop off.
We wish you
much fun
and success!

30 31
Assembling
the Movement
Take your time with this. Concentrate and be careful when
assembling the movement. Your workspace or bench should be
particularly clean and well lit.
First, get all the tools you will need for assembling
the movement ready:
◊Allen key, 0.9 mm Compartment (13)
◊Allen key, 1.5 mm Compartment (13)
◊Allen key, 2.5 mm Compartment (13)
◊Tweezers (dressing forceps) Compartment (13)
◊Watchmaker’s screwdriver Compartment (13)
◊Standard screwdriver Compartment (13)
◊Watchmaker’s loupe Compartment (14)
◊Assembly base Compartment (30)
To complete the assembly, we have included an assembly base here
for you to work on. How it is to be used is clearly pictured on each
photograph.
The high-quality components are best kept at hand, but in their dust-
free packaging and in the compartments of the foam packaging so
they are shock-protected.
In the instruction manual that follows, we have consciously decided
not to go into a functional description of each of the individual parts
so that the assembly can be accomplished more quickly.
The functional aspects of your Mechanica M2 are extensively discus-
sed in Chapter II »Technology and Workings of the Mechanica M2«
starting on page 57.
Tools
Suggestion:
Always assemble
your movement
in the same order
that this booklet
recommends.

Suggestion:
Use the assembly
base as your underlay
for the following
assembly steps to
avoid scratching up
your workspace or the
movement’s plates.
32 33
Assembling
the Movement
Assembly of the Back Plate
You need the following components:
◊Back plate Compartment (28)
◊4 x pillars*Compartment (4)
◊4 x Allen countersunk-head screws M4 x 10 Compartment (26)
◊4 x washers Compartment (26)
◊3 x protective pillars*Compartment (5)
◊5 x ball bearings*for the back plate Compartment (6)
Finely polished set of screws
Extra equipment available for your Mechanica M2 includes a finely
polished set of screws. These 22 finely polished and threaded
Stainless steel screws*and washers made of bronze*enhance the
look of the movement decisively by replacing the corresponding
standard components during assembly of the movement.
◊4 x cylinder-head screws M4 x 6 Compartment (28)
(replace the standard four Allen
countersunk-head screws M4 x 10) and
◊4 bronze washers
To screw the back plate to the pillars*
◊7 x cylinder-head screws M2 x 4 Compartment (28)
To screw the Minute wheel*pillar*,
the escapement*and the dial together
◊4 x knurled nut M4 Compartment (28)
To screw the front plate
◊Cylinder-head screw M1.4 x 4 Compartment (28)
To screw the intermediate wheel*
◊2 x cylinder-head screws M4 x 6 Compartment (28)
To screw the ratchet wheel*cock
to the front plate
Components
Components
Equipment N
Then put the five stainless
steel ball bearings into the
movement side pocket holes of
the back plate. Because of their
varying diameters, the bearings
only fit into the correct places.
The side that the ball bearings’
roll cages end up on is not
important.
All of the movement components have been manufactured and
inspected using the greatest care. In order to avoid dirtying the
components, you should only open the little bag containing the clean
components right before you need to assemble them.
Put the movement pillars into the drilled holes of the assembly base.
Then put the plate*onto the top of the pillars. The engraving
»Mechanica M2« on the back of the back plate should be showing
upward. The varying shapes of the pillar tops will help you avoid
erroneous positioning.
Lay the four washers on top and screw them to the pillars*using the
four Allen countersunk-head screws M4 x 10.
Turn the plate around and now screw the three protective pillars in
using your hand.
Suggestion:
Use the standard
screwdriver to
screw the polished
M4 cylinder-head
screws.

Suggestion:
In order to avoid
scratching up
your workspace
or the plates,
put something like
the box your M2
came in or a
piece of paper
underneath what
you’re working on.
Suggestion:
The ball bearings
do not get oiled!
34 35
Assembling
the Movement
Assembling the Gear train
Since the surfaces of hardened steel arbors*are not treated, please
use the gloves included in the set. The gold-plated wheels can get
scratched if they come into contact with the harder material of the
steel tweezers.
The pre-assembled Gear train components and their arbor
pivots should be added to the ball bearings in the following
order and observing the installation position:
1. Minute wheel*Compartment (10)
2. Center wheel*Compartment (9)
3. Spring barrel*Compartment (8)
4. Fourth wheel*Compartment (11)
5. Seconds wheel*Compartment (12)
Components
Preparation and Assembly of the Front Plate
The following components are needed:
◊Front plate Compartment (29)
◊Intermediate wheel pillar*Compartment (27)
◊Cylinder-head screw M2 x 4 Compartment (27)
◊5 x ball bearings*for front plate Compartment (7)
◊3 x Allen countersunk-head screws M4 x 10 Compartment (27)
◊4 x Washers Compartment (27)
◊4 x Knurled nuts Compartment (27)
Lay the assembly base with the partially assembled movement
aside in order to prepare the second plate, known as the front
plate, for assembly.
Assembling the Intermediate wheel Pillar
On the outside (dial side) of the front plate the click spring*is
already pre-assembled.
The Intermediate wheel pillar*should now be put in the same area,
in the hole marked as position 1 (see photo below), and screwed
from below using a cylinder-head screw M2 x 4.
Safety Precaution:
The Spring barrel
may not be opened
due to danger
of injury.
Components
Adding the ball bearings to the Front Plate
Now the ball bearings should be put into the pocket holes of the
front plate. It is not possible to put them in the wrong place due to
the varying sizes of the bearings.
In case the ball bearings don’t seem to be stabilized enough in the
pocket holes, they can alternatively be added to the corresponding
arbor pivots. This prevents them from falling out when the front plate
is turned over.
1.
2.
4.
3.
5.

Caution:
Carefully examine
the assembly of
the click.
Badly assembled
click components
could cause damage
to the movement
and even hefty injury.
36 37
Assembling
the Movement
Putting the Front Plate onto the Frame
Now combine the front plate with the partially assembled movement
and the back plate. To do this, turn the front plate over and lower it.
Carefully guide the pivots*and tops of the pillars*into the ball
bearings and holes.
Assembling the Click
The click spring*is already pre-assembled on the front plate.
Now complete the click*by adding the following elements in
this order:
◊Ratchet wheel*Compartment (19)
◊Ratchet*Compartment (19)
When adding the ratchet wheel*, please make sure that the side
marked with an O (for the German word »oben,« up) is visible. When
the ratchet*is correctly positioned, like in the illustration below,
teeth will mesh and fit tightly with the teeth of the ratchet wheel.
The click spring should securely push the teeth; if necessary the click
spring might have to be correspondingly bent. Please make sure
that the click spring is in the correct position; it should be rigidly sup-
ported and flat on the front plate.
Components
After screwing the plates*examine the endshake of the arbors in
order to avoid the bearings sticking. To do this, carefully grasp the
arbors with the tweezers and move them toward the pivots. If you
turn the movement over, you should be able to acoustically hear the
arbors fall onto the bearings.
The three guard pillars are
screwed in using M4 x 10
countersunk-head screws.
Screwing this is very impor-
tant to avoid accidental
opening of the movement!
Now secure the front plate
to the pillars using the four
washers and four knurled
nuts.
N