WaterGeneral RO 585 Supplement

INSTALLATION & SERVICE MANUAL
Under-the-sink Reverse Osmosis Water Systems
Model:
RO 585 5-Stage RO system, 85 gal/day at 80 psi.
RO 6ALK 6-Stage RO system with Alkaline filter
Made by: WaterGeneral Mfg. Co.
Made in U.S.A.
www.Watergeneral.com
rev. 12.12.06

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PRODUCT SPECIFICATION
5- Stage Reverse Osmosis Water Purification Systems
Model no: RO585
Capacity: Generates 45 to 85 gallons per day depends on water temperature, pressure, chemistry variations)
System includes
•RO unit: 5-stage unit, all filters included.
•Storage Tank: Pressurized tank with pre-charge pressure of 7~10 psi., powder coated steel construction with Food
Grade butyl water bladder. NSF listed
•Water Dispensing Faucet: lead-free, long reach goose neck type, chrome steel, locking lever for continuous dispensing.
•Hardware: feed water adapter, feed water valve, drain saddle valve, tank valve, and screws.
•Installation & Service manual
System Requirements
•Working pressure: 40 to 80 psi feed water pressure required, if below 40 psi, a booster pump is needed. We have a RO
system with booster pump assembly. If the input pressure is above 80 psi, you MUST put a pressure regulator to reduce
the pressure below 80 psi.
•Working temperature: 100 ~ 40 deg. F ( 37 ~ 4 deg. C )
•pH range: 2-11
•If feed water has hardness level above 300 ppm, we recommend putting a water softener prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has iron, rust problem, we recommend putting a iron filter prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has bacteria problem, we recommend putting an ultra violet sterilizing system prior to RO system.
Filter Service Life
•1st Stage Sediment filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months. Replacement filter Part no. 201
•2nd Stage Carbon block filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months. Replacement filter Part no. 205
•3rd Stage Carbon block filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months. Replacement filter Part no. 205
•4th Stage TFC/TFM membrane: Recommend changing every 2~3 years. Replacement filter Part no. 385
•5th Stage Inline carbon filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months. Replacement filter Part no. 213
The filters & membrane used are all standard sizes.
Dimension
•RO unit: Length 15 inch, Width 5 ½ inch, Height 16 inch
•Storage tank: Diameter 10 ¾ inch, Height 15 ¼ inch
•Faucet: 9 ½ inch above counter top
Warranty
•1 years Limited Warranty on parts, components. Filters are not under warranty.
Performance
•Average Rejection rate: 92 to 98% of dissolved solids after RO
Purification Processes/ Filter specifications
Removes microbiological contaminants like Cysts (protozoan), inorganic/Radiological contaminants like Barium,
Cadmium, Copper, Chromium (hexvavalent), Chromim (trivalent), Fluoride, Lead, Radium 226/228, Selenium, etc.
Ammonia, Arsenic, chloramines, chlorine, copper, lead, nitrate, phosphate, silica, hardness, calcium, magnesium, other
dissolved solids.
•1st stage: 5 micron sediment filter, 2 3/4”. x 9 7/8” height, made by 100% pure polypropylene fibers
•2nd & 3rd stage: carbon filter, 2 3/4” x 9 ¾” height, composed of high-performance coconut shell carbon.
•4th stage: TFC/TFM type membrane, 75 GPD, 1 ¾” x 11 ¾” long
•5th stage: Inline carbon filter (polishing filter, improves taste): 2” x 10”

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Thank you for choosing Watergeneral Reverse Osmosis Water Systems. You now own a superb Reverse Osmosis (RO)
system that effectively reducing most contaminants, organic and inorganic compound, unwanted taste and odor from tap
water. It is designed to transform your tap water into distill water.
Read carefully and follow the instruction in this manual before proceeding with actual installation. Failure to do so could
result in personal injury or damage to the equipment or other properties. Be sure to follow any special plumbing codes in
your area.
CHECK LIST:
1. Reverse Osmosis Unit
2. Water storage tank
3. Installation kit consists tank ball valve, drain saddle valve, feed water adapter, feed water needle valve, faucet
assembly, tubing, tube inserts
4. Installation manual
INSTALLATION KIT:
1. Chrome dispensing faucet
2. Tank ball valve or On/Off valve
3. Drain saddle clamp
4. ¼” tubing
5. Bottom filter housing wrench
6. tube insert *
7. ½” feed water adapter
8. chrome ball valve for water supply
* NOTE: Item #6 tube inserts are not required in the installation, but you can put them in three places; (1) tubing
connection at 1st stage filter, (2) tubing connection at tank ball valve, (3) tubing connection at dispensing faucet.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS LIST
Variable speed drill
1/8” ¼”, 7/16”
, ½”, and 5/8” drill bit
5/8, 9/16 open
-
end wrench, or adjustable wrench, pliers
Phillips screwdriver
Utility knife, or
scissor
Teflon tape
OPERATING PARAMETER
•Working pressure: 40 to 80 psi feed water pressure required. If input pressure is below 40 psi, a booster pump or a
permeate pump is needed. We have a RO system with built-in permeate pumps, and we also carry booster pumps.
If the input water pressure is above 80 psi (you must use a pressure regulator to step down the pressure). We
also carry small pressure regulators just for the RO system.
•Working temperature: 100 ~ 40 deg. F ( 37 ~ 4 deg. C )
•If feed water has hardness level above 300 ppm, we recommend putting a water softener prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has iron, rust problem, we recommend putting an iron filter prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has bacteria problem, we recommend putting an ultra violet sterilizing system prior to RO system.
WARNING: Do not use this RO+DI system alone to treat water with bacteria problem or water source with unknown
quality.
WARNING: Do not connect HOT water source to this unit.
WARNING: Incorrect installation will VOID the warranty.
WARNING: Input pressure must not exceed 80 psi. Pressure regulator must be installed to reduce pressure.

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About the system
Reverse Osmosis process is a separation process. Tap water enters the system, and it is separated at the 4th stage
membrane filter. One side would go to the storage tank (purified water); the other side carrying all the minerals is purged
to the drain. The ratio of purified water to drain water is 1:3. That means for every gallon of water you use, it will drain 3
to 4 gallons. The drain is required for the RO process to work. If the drain is intentionally shut off, all the minerals will
be accumulated inside the membrane, and it would permanently damaged the membrane filter.
All Reverse Osmosis units require purging of water when it’s producing water.
Production rate: The system uses a 75 GPD (gallons per day) RO membrane. The actual production rate will depend on
water input pressure, temperature, and water chemistry. At optimal condition the membrane will make 85 GPD, but on
average, it would make about 45 to 60 gallons per day, or about 2 to 3 gallons per hour.
Drain rate: The drain rate of the system is set at 600 mL/min. using a flow restrictor. This drain rate is constant,
independent of input pressure. If the input water supply is very hard (> 17 grains) or the TDS reading is above 700 ppm,
it would be advantageous to change the membrane to 50GPD, in order to get better rejection and prolong the life of the
membrane filter.
ASSEMBLY QUICK VIEW
Carbon Carbon Sediment
1. Remove plastic wrap on the filters
2. Insert the filters as shown ab
ove.
1. Put upper portion of the unit on top of the filter housing
2. Screw on filter housing vertically to the filter housing cap by hand
3. Then use filter housing wrench to tighten the each housing
INSTALLATION QUICK VIEW
4 connections Color of tubing
A Feed water valve Red or orange
B Dispensing Faucet Blue
C Drain saddle valve Black
D Tank ball valve Yellow

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INSTALLATION (for under-the-sink installation)
STEP 1: TAPPING INTO COLD WATER SUPPLY
CAUTION:
•The water supply to your RO unit MUST come from COLD water line. Hot water will damage your RO system.
1. Locate cold water shut off valve under the sink and turn it off. Open cold-water faucet to release the pressure, and make sure
there is no water.
2. Put 3 turns of Teflon tape on threaded ends of the angle needle valve, or the ball valve.
3. Determine the best location for putting the feed water adapter. Do you have a flexible line or a solid copper tube? Is the
flexible line with smooth surface or spiral line? Is there enough space for installing feed water adapter? More radius or more
space is required if you first joint the feed water adapter with the needle valve. Is the size of fitting thread the same as the
feed water adapter?
4. You can either joint the angle needle valve to the feed water adapter first, or install adapter to cold water supply line first. It
depends on how much space is available under the sink.
5. For FLEX line: Loosen nut and separate cold water riser tube from faucet shank. Gently bend riser tube so that feed water
adapter fits onto faucet shank. Use the Existing cone washer (if the existing cone water is badly damaged, use the new cone
water provided in the kit). NOTE: If you have a spiral type flex tube riser, you NEED to use the existing cone water, since
the cone washer we provided is straight, not spiral). Use Teflon tape on threaded parts to prevent leaks. Then tighten the
connection.
6. For Solid Copper riser: Same procedure as flex tubing except you must cut a piece of the riser tube about 3/ 4” to 1” so the
adapter can fit between faucet and riser tube. Use Teflon tape to prevent leaks.
7. Install the angle needle valve to adapter if you have not done so in procedure #4.
8. For connecting red tubing to angle needle valve, refer to the photo below. Then push tubing through the brass nut, then the
sleeve, then put plastic insert inside the tubing, then push sleeve against the insert, then screw on the brass nut. Don’t over
tighten it. But it has to be tight.
1. feed water adapter ½” connect to
base of kitchen faucet
1. buy a ½ pipe to ½” pipe hose
2. ½ to ½” nipple fitting. 3. adapter.
4. your existing faucet pipe
•Many times, it is easier to use the existing
cone washer than using the new one.
•If there is not enough space under the sink
base, or it’s difficult to get to, you can
disconnect the riser from the cold-water valve
side. If the fitting size does not match, buy
size-changing fittings, or buy a new flex riser
with matching sizes.
•Many times, it is easier to buy an additional
stainless steel braded flex riser and a ½”
nipple to put in between the bottom of the
faucet male thread and the feed water adapter
(Don’t buy the spiral type) so you can easily
put the feed water adapter between two risers.
This is the EASIEST way. Spend additional
$5 on the riser may save you a lot of time.
Feed water adapter with Ball valve
1. put Teflon tape on the thread, put only 3 turns
2. push tubing through the nut,
3. push tubing all the way into the connection,
4. screw on the nut tight using a wrench

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NOTE: The system uses compression fitting connections: When connecting tubing to
the system, first, you must unscrew the compression nut off the fitting, then pass the tubing
through the compression nut about 1”, then screw on to the fitting, then use a 5/8” wrench to
tighten the nut until the thread is not visible. Don’t over-tighten it.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE DISPENSING FAUCET
1. faucet base
2. small washer+
chrome plate
3. large washer
4. kitchen sink
5. bottom plate
6. lock washer
7. lock nut
8. tube insert
9. sleeve
10. faucet nut
drill 5/8” hole on
the sink
The faucet should be positioned with aesthetics, function
and convenience in mind. An ample flat surface is
required for the faucet base so that it can be drawn down
tight. Also check the under sink area of the desired
location to see if there is ample space to complete the
faucet installation.
If the space is not available on the upper sink area, the
faucet could be positioned on the counter top at the edge
of the sink. Be sure to watch for obstructions below, i.e.,
drawers, cabinet walls, support braces, etc. If the counter
top is ceramic tile, the method for drilling the hole should
be the same as for porcelain sink.
NOTE: The sink drilling process, although not
complicated, requires a certain amount of caution and
forethought. Porcelain sink can chip if care is not
exercised.
PORCELAIN ENAMEL SINK/ STAINLESS STEEL SINK/ ALUMIUM SINK
A 5/8” hole is required for the faucet. It is recommended that you get special drill bit for porcelain and tile counter.
1. Place a piece of masking tape or duct tape on the determined location where the hole is to be drilled.
2. Use a variable speed drill at slow speed with 1/8” drill bit, and drill a centering hole in the center of the desired
faucet location.
3. Enlarge the hole using a 1/ 4” drill bit.
4. Enlarge the hole using 7/16”, 1/ 2”, and 5/8” drill bit. Pause occasionally to cool drill bits.
5. File or clean the surrounding area and remove the masking or duct tape. (NOTE: the metal chips on porcelain will
stain very fast)
6. DON’T put Teflon tape at the tip of the threaded mounting base of the faucet since it’s a compression fitting.
7. Put the small rubber washer, the chrome base plate, large rubber washer according to the diagram through the
threaded mounting tube at the base of the faucet.
8. From under the sink, install the bottom plate, lock washer, and nut. Then screw on tightly.
9. According to the diagram, put the brass nut through the BLUE tubing first, then plastic sleeve (preferred), or brass
sleeve, then the plastic insert. Push the white plastic sleeve against the insert.
10. Screw on the Blue tubing with brass nut to the faucet base. Uses wrench to tighten the nut but don’t over tighten
it. Too tight would cause leak.
11. The spout can swivel 360-degrees. The faucet lever can be pushed down for dispensing or pulled up for
continuing dispensing.

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STEP 3: MOUNTING THE TANK BALL VALVE
Do not release air from the air valve on the lower side of the storage tank. It is pre-charged at 7 psi at the factory.
put Teflon tape, 6-8 turns
screw on ball valve hand tight, push tubing
through the nut, put tube insert, screw on the
nut
the tank can be positioned
laying down or standing upright
STEP 4: MOUNTING THE DRAIN SADDLE VALVE (don’t put in blue area)
The drain saddle valve should fit most standard drain pipe. It
should be installed above the trap and on the horizontal pipe
(1) or vertical pipe (2).
DON’T put on position (3), (4), or blue section
Position the drain saddle in desired location, mark spot. You need
to consider available space for drain tubing
Drill 1/ 4” hole into the drainpipe above the water line of the pipe.
Clean the surface of the pipe.
Pear off the sticky foam pad, then align the center hole around the
drilled pipe hole. Then tape it.
Align the drilled hole in the drain pipe with the drain saddle
us
ing a drill
bit or narrow screwdriver
put the complementary piece and clamp them together with the
two bolts. (1) Tighten the two bolts evenly. (2) Connect tubing

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STEP 5: SYSTEM START-UP
1. Make sure all tubing are not kinked.
2. Turn Tank Valve to OFF position.
3. Turn RO faucet lever to continuous flow position. Lever points up.
4. Turn cold water supply main valve on slowly. Also turn input ball valve ON. When the system is pressurized,
check for leaks. If a leak is found, tighten the connection.
5. Wait 5 minutes, the water should start dripping out of the RO faucet, and then wait 10 more minutes to allow
water to flow through the system, and air inside the system can be purged.
6. Turn Tank Valve to ON position, lever is parallel to the tubing.
7. Turn the RO faucet lever to OFF. Now the purified water will start filling the storage tank.
8. Wait 2 hours for the storage tank to be filled up.
9. DO NOT DRINK THE FIRST BATCH OF WATER PRODUCED BY THE SYSTEM.
10. After storage tank is full, turn the RO faucet lever to continuous flow position, (Lever points up) to discharge the
first batch of water. It takes about 5 minutes to completely discharge the tank. When the tank is discharged, you
will notice just a steady trickle of water coming out.
11. After discharging the tank or about 5 minutes, turn the RO faucet to OFF position. Now the RO system is
refilling the tank.
12. After the tank is filled up again, you can start enjoy the purified water. Job Well Done!
NOTE: Check for leaks daily for the first week after installation.
Flow Diagram for 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis Water Systems
SERVICE RECORD:
DATE OF PURCHASE:
DATE OF INSTALLATION/SERVICE:
Service Date
Date
Date
Date
Date
1
st
stage sediment
2
nd
stage carbon
3
rd
st
age carbon
4
th
stage membrane
5
th
stage inline carbon

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Changing Filters Procedures
•Shut off the system by turning off the water supply, and turn off the tank valve, open
the spigot to depressurize
•Prepare a towel under the unit for water spills
•Use a filter wrench (part no. 566) or use hands to open the filter housing, unscrew it
from right to left. To open is clockwise looking from the top.
•Throw away the used filter, and clean the inside of the housing by rinsing or
scrubbing it with dish soap.
•Check condition of the O-ring. It should be replaced every 3 years to prevent leak
•Place the new filter inside the filter housing. For carbon filters, the rubber gaskets
should be on both ends.
•Put some Vaseline or silicon-based O-ring lubricant on the side of the housing thread
and the O-rings (optional procedure)
•Use a filter wrench or both hands to screw the housing back by turning it from left to
right (Don’t lay down the unit when turning it, the unit should be standing upright to
prevent the o-ring or filters from misalignment)
•Repeat the above steps for other filters
•The 5th stage inline carbon filter has penny-sized protective caps on both ends.
Please use a screw driver or knife to
pry open the caps.
Replace inline carbon filter: (white inline filter)
* if you have compression fitting
*unscrew fitting off to replace
filter
For part no. 213 inline carbon filter, remove fittings from both
ends of the filter then replace new filter.
After all housings are tight, turn on the water supply and tank
valve.
Check for leaks, if there is a leak; tighten the housing or re-
aligning the o-ring.
Open the spigot to drain all the water out of the storage tank.
If you are changing a carbon filter or membrane, you must
drain the first tank of water after restart the system.
Refer to the next page for recharging tank procedure (if
necessary)
Changing Membrane Procedure
•Lift the membrane housing from the U-clips, and remove the tubing from the membrane fitting (the inlet side of the membrane
housing, or the side with the membrane housing cap). Unscrew the membrane housing cap off (counter-clockwise)
•Use pliers to pull the membrane out of the membrane housing, and discard the used membrane.
•Put some Vaseline or lubricant on the small black O-rings. Insert the new membrane into the membrane housing (THE SIDE WITH
DOUBLE BLACK O-RINGS SHOULD GO IN FIRST) Push the membrane all the way in (some force is required to make sure the
membrane is all the way in). Put some Vaseline or silicon based lubricant to the side of the housing threads.
•Screw the membrane-housing cap back (clockwise). Make sure O-ring is in place. Connect the tubing to its elbow fittings.
•Turn on the water supply and tank valve to restart the system. Check for leaks, if there is a leak, tighten the cap
•
Wait 2 to 3 hours for the tank to
be filled then you must drain the first tank of water by opening up the spigot to flush the system.

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TROUBLE SHOOTING
* For more detailed tech support notes & troubleshooting go to www.watergeneral.com
NOTE: Turn off the system before servicing.
Installation Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
No or low water production 1. Feed water valve in not turn on
2. Tank valve is not turn on
3. Tubing is kinked
1. Turn on feed water valve
2. Turn on tank valve
3. Straighten the tubing
Leak at filter housing 1. Housing is not tighten 2. Damaged or misaligned O-ring
3. Housing has cracks
1. Tighten housing
2. Re-aligned O-ring or replace
3. Replace housing
Leak at fitting thread 1. Not properly tighten
2. Fitting has cracks
1. Use Teflon tape, re-tighten
2. Replaced it
Bad-tasting water 1. Not yet flush the system
2. Tubing connection incorrect
1. Discharge water from tank
2. Check flow diagram
Milky/Cloudy water
1. Air in system/filters
1. This is normal, continue use it for 2 weeks
Noise from drain 1. Saddle valve mounted too high 1. Lower the saddle valve When system is making water, waste water to
drain is normal, when storage tank is full, drain
should stop
Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
When turn on the RO faucet,
only small amount of water
come out.
1. Lifting the tank to see if there is
still water inside. Heavy or light ? 1. If it’s heavy, you need to recharge tank, following recharge procedure
1b. If its light, the water either is not going
in or the syst
em is not making water.
Vibrating noise or very loud
high pitch noise
1. From the auto shut-off valve 1. If the noise is too unbearable, shut-off
valve should be replaced.
Drain water never shut off
1. Auto shut-off valve is worn out
or becoming ineffective
2. Storage tank not enough pressure
3. Water supply pressure is near 40
psi or below
4. Cold water temperature
5. Filters are cl
ogged up
1. Replace auto shut-off valve
2. Follow recharging tank procedure
3. Increase feed water pressure
4. Can’t do anything about it.
5. Replace filters
Low water production 1. Storage tank problem 2. Clogged filters
3. Kinked tubing
4. Clog flow re
strictor
1. Follow recharging tank procedure
2. Replace filters
3. Straighten the tubing
4. Replace flow restrictor
Note: Clogged filters: How do you know if the filters are clogged up? For the pre-filters, sediment filters and carbon
filters; check the pressure difference before and after the filters. If there is significant difference in pressure that means
the filter is clogged. Turn OFF tank valve and cold water main valve then open the RO faucet to depressurize the system,
then disconnect the tubing after the bottom three pre-filters, then turn ON the cold water main valve. If you get very
strong water pressure, (as strong as water going into the system) then the bottom 3 pre-filters are not clogged. If the water
pressure is much smaller, unlike a burst of water pressure, then the bottom 3 pre-filters need to be replaced. Note:
Checking a clogged membrane uses different method. Use a water quality meter TDS meter to check the condition and
performance of the RO membrane (4th stage filter)
Note: Clogged flow restrictor: When you disconnect the black tubing going into the saddle valve, and the RO system is
in the processing of making water (by turning on the RO faucet), there should be a small steady flow of drain water. If
you do not get any drain water, the flow restrictor may be clogged, then you need to replace a new flow restrictor ASAP,
and discontinue using the system.

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Instruction for Water Quality TDS Meter (included with Model: RO 585A only) Part No. 578
Specifications:
Range
0 to 9
990 ppm (mg/L)
EMC Deviation
+ 1%
Temperature Compensation
5 to 50C or 41
-
122F
Resolution
1 ppm
Environment
32F to 122
F
Batteries
Accuracy
+
2% full scale
Weight
2 oz or 85 g
Dimension
Features:
•Hold function: Freezes measurements for convenient reading & recording.
•Auto-Off function: Turns off meter after 10 minutes of idle to conserve batteries.
•High operating limit: Measures from 1 to 9990 ppm, when reading is over 999, it converts to x10’
Operation
•
Remove the protective cap , then turn TDS
meter on, press ON button
•
Immerse into water sample up to the about 1 ½ “ from tipwithout touching the bottom of the
water sample container
•Stir gently and wait until the display stabilizes, and theTDS meter compensates for the temperature variance automatically.
•
To hold the reading, press HOLD, Turn off meter, press OFF button
Battery Replacement
When the TDS mater cannot be switched on or the display fades, pull out the battery compartment and replace two 1.5V batteries, paying attention to
their polarity.
Interpreting the Results
Example:
Reading #1 Reading from Reverse Osmosis water : 30 ppm:: Reading #2 Reading from tap water: 350 ppm
Divide Reading #1 by Reading #2 Reading #1/ Reading #2 = 0.086
one minus the value obtain above the multiply by 100 to get the Rejection of the R.O. membrane or RO system
1-0.086 = 0.914 0.914 x 100 = 91.4 or 91% rejection rate
Your Reading:
Reading #1 Reading from Reverse Osmosis water : ppm
Reading #2 Reading from tap water: ppm
Divide Reading #1 by Reading #2 Reading #1/ Reading #2 =
one minus the value obtain above the multiply by 100 to get the Rejection of the R.O. membrane or RO system
1- ( ) = x 100 = % (rejection rate)
•A new RO system or a new membrane should have rejection rate of 90 to 95%
•Over years of usage the membrane performance will degrade, and membrane should be replaced when rejection rate reaches 80% or below.
RECHARGING TANK PROCEDURE
PROBLEMS:
•When you turn on the spigot you get small water pressure and water flow.
•When you turn on the spigot, only a quick burst of water comes out of the system, then it dies down to trickles.
•When you turn on the spigot in the morning, you only can get less than a gallon of water.
If you have above problems, you should recharge the tank. The tank should have about 7 psi of air pressure when it is completely
empty. The storage tank has a water bladder inside, and it is surrounded by compressed air, so when you turn on the spigot, the
compressed air would squeeze or compress the water bladder to force the water out of the tank. When the tank is full the tank pressure
can reach about 35 to 50 psi depending on your feed water pressure, but to accurately recharge the storage tank, you should empty the
tank then set the air pressure to 7 psi.
TOOLS NEEDED: An air compressor or air pump (like a bicycle tire air pump. An air pressure gauge that is able to read less than
10 psi. Adjustable wrench or 9/11” wrench
STEPS:
1. Shut off the water supply to the RO system. Turn on the spigot to allow water to run until it stops (you can collect the water if you
want)
2. Check to see if there is still water in the storage tank by lifting the tank. If the tank feels heavy, that means you need to recharge
to tank, then continue the following steps. If the tank feels light, that means you don’t need to recharge your storage tank at this
time.
3. Locate the air valve on the side or on the bottom of the tank. It looks like the air valve on tires.
4. Use an air compressor or air pump to pump air into the tank. Keep the spigot on while pumping air, so that all water inside the
tank can be purged out. Don’t over charged it, just keep around 20 psi.
5. After all water is been discharged, use an air pressure gauge to check the tank pressure.
6. The tank should have 7 psi of pressure when it’s empty. Add or purge air if necessary.
7. Turn the feed water valve back on, and turn off the spigot to allow refilling of the tank. It may take couple hours to refill the
storage tank.
8. Finished
NOTE: If after few days of running the system, the problem comes back, then you may need to replace a new tank.

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LIMITED ONE-YEAR WARRANTY
1. What your warranty covers:
WaterGeneral Reverse Osmosis Systems are warranted to the original owner to be free of defects in
material and workmanship from the date of manufacture for one year as follows:
a. Manufacturer will, within one year of purchase, replace the defected parts (excluding filters) at
no charge.
b. The replaceable filters are not warranted since the service life of replaceable filter varies with
local water conditions and thus not warranted.
2. Conditions of Warranty:
a. System must be maintained and serviced with the manufacturer original replacement parts and
filters. The performance of your drinking water system is directly related to the conditions of the
water been treated and the particular application in which it is used. Therefore, manufacturer’s
liability is limited to the cost of repair of the RO systems. The manufacturer is not liable for
incidental or consequential damages of any kind. Systems must be installed and operated in
accordance with manufacture’s recommended procedures and guidelines.
3. What WaterGeneral Reverse Osmosis Systems will not do:
a. Warranty is void if product failure or damage results from freezing, neglect, misapplication,
fouling with sediment or scale or failure to operate the system in accordance with the instructions
contained in this manual.
b. The following operating conditions must also be followed for this warranty to be valid
•The hardness of the water cannot exceed 7 grains per gallon or 120 ppm.
•No iron can be present in feed water. Or iron should be removed from feed water.
•The pH of the water must not be lower than 3 or higher than 11
•Feed water Total Dissolved solids TDS should not exceed 1000 ppm
•Feed water temperature between 90 F and 45 F or (32C and 5 C)
4. Obtaining Warranty Service:
For Warranty service, obtain a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA #) number from the
manufacture or distributor. You can also contact our technical support department to obtain the RMA #
or visit our web site at http://www.WaterGeneral.com or email your request to [e-mail]
5. Limitations and exclusions:
Manufacturer will not be responsible for any implied warranties, including those of merchantability and
fitness for a particular purpose. Manufacturer assumes no liability whatsoever for any incidental and
consequential damages, including loss of revenue, loss of time, travel expenses, inconvenience, and any
damage caused by the equipment and its failure to function properly.