White S-9000AAB User manual

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INDEX
1
Pages
Features and
parts
.2-3
Needle-thread-
fabric-stitching
guide
4
Winding
the
bobbin
5
Setting
the
needle
6
Threading
the
bobbin
cose
in
shuttle
7
Upper
threading
8
Adjusting
the tensions
9
To
regulate
the
length
of
stitch
10
Sewing
in
reverse
10
Straight
and
zigzag
sewing
10
Adjusting
pressure
and
feeding
of
fabric
1
1
Preparing
to
sew
12
Removing
the
work
12
Three
needle
position
13-1
4
Making
buttonholes
1
5
Sewing
on
buttons
16
Stretch
stitch
17
Pages
Free
arm sewing
18-19
Automatic
embroidery
20-22
Blind
stitch
hem
23
Creative embroidery
24
Samples
of
creative
embroidery
25-26
Embroidering
with
a
hoop
27
The
adjustable
cording
and
zipper
foot
28
Quilting
guide
29
Seam
gauge
or
cloth
guide
29
Adjusting
and
changing
“V”
belt
30
Cleaning
and
oiling
the
shuttle
31-32
Care
and
maintenance
of
your
machine
32-33
How
to
replace
the
light bulb
33
Accessories
34
Trouble
chart
35.37
Sewing tips
38-40

2
FEATURES
AND
PARTS
(Front
View)
16-
—7
—
1o
1.
Take
up
lever
2. Pressure release
guide (darning)
3. Arm thread
guides
4.
Disc
cover
5.
Zigzag
width
control
6.
Bobbin winder
7.
Hand
wheel
8.
Clutch
nut
9.
Stitch
length
dial
10.
Reverse
button
11.
Stretch stitch
lever
12.
Drop feed
control
13.
Needle
plate
14.
Front cover
15.
Presser
foot
16. Presser
foot clamp
screw
17. Needle
clamp
18. Tension
dial
19. Needle
position
lever
20.
Zigzag
width
locking
knobs
—
12
Fig.
1

FEATURES
AND
PARTS
(Back
View>
21.
Spool
pins
22.
Presser
bar
lifter
23.
Thread
Cutter
24.
Extension
plate
25.
Light
switch
26.
Bobbin
winder
tension
21
Fig.
2

4
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING
GUIDE
Fabric
Needle
No.
Machine
Stitches
Per Inch
Cotton
Mercerized
Thread
Thread
Silk
or
Nylon
Extremely
heavy
610
tarpaulin,
sacking,
4(20)
to
to
Heavy
Duty
canvas,
duck,
etc.
8
30
Heavy
upholstery
8
30
fabric,
ticking,
3
(18)
to
to
Heavy
Duty
denim,
leatherette
10
40
Medium
heavydrapery
10
40
fabric,
velveteen,
2
(16)
to
to
Heavy
Duty
suiting, felt,
terry,
etc.
1
2
60
Medium
broadcloth,,
percale,
12 60
gingham, linen,
chintz,
taf-
1
(14)
to
to
50
A
feta,
sheer wool,
shantung,
etc.
14
80
Sheer
voile, lawn,
14 80
dimity,
crepe,
to
to
50
A
handkerchief
linen,
0
(11) 16
100
plastic
film,
etc.
(Plastic
film)
8 to
10
Very
sheer
chiffon,
16
100
batiste,
lace, organdy,
00
(9)
to
to
50
A
ninon, net,
marquisett,
etc.
20
150

Fig.5
WINDING
THE BOBBIN
Disengage
the
hand
wheel
(1,
Fig.
3)
from
the
stitching
mechanism
by
turning
the clutch
(2,
Fig.
3)
toward
you
or
counter
clockwise.
Place
a spool
of
thread
on
one
of
the
spool
pins and
lead
thread
though the
arm
thread
guide
(B,
Fig.
4), Run
end
of
thread
through
a
hole
in
the
bobbin
edge
and place
bobbin
on
spindle
of
bobbin
winder
(C,
Fig. 4)
fitting
the notch
on
bobbin
over
small
pin
on
spindle.
Push
bobbin
winder
(C,
Fig.
4)
to
the
right,
and
hold
thread
end
loosely
then
start
machine
slowly.
Bobbin
will
stop winding when
it is
filled.
Turn
clutch
away
from
you
until
sewing mechanism
is again
engaged
so
that
needle
moves
when
you
turn
the hand
wheel. Break
off
loose
thread
end
used
to start
the
winding.
Fig.3
Fig.4

SETTING THE
NEEDLE
See Fig.
6.
Raise
the
needle bar
to its
highest
point,
turning
wheel
toward
you
by
hand.
Then
loosen
the needle clamp
screw
B
and
the
needle
can be
inserted
into
clamp
C.
Place needle
(flat
side
to
right)
in
the
needle
clamp
and
push
it
upward
as
far
as
it
will go
into
the
needle
clamp
hole,
tightening
the
needle
clamp screw
securely with
a
screw
driver.
After
changing
the
needle
make
one
complete
revolution of
the
balance
wheel
by
hand
to
be
sure
the
needle
is
in the correct
position.
Fig.
7
THREADING THE
BOBBIN CASE
Step
1 (illustrated
in Fig.
8).
Hold
bobbin
case between
thumb
and forefinger
of left
hand,
so
that
the
slot
in
the edge
of the
bobbin
case is
on top.
Take
the
bobbin
between
thumb
and forefinger of
right
hand
so
that the
thread
on
top
leads from
left
to right.
Step
2.
Insert
bobbin
into bobbin
case,
pull
the
thread into
the slot
of the
bobbin
case
as shown
in
Fig.
9,
and
draw
it under tension
spring
and
into
the fork-shaped
opening
of
the spring
as shown
in
Fig.
10.
6
Fig.
6
Flat
surface
of
needle
shank
/

PLACING
BOBBiN
CASE
IN
SHUTTLE
Raise
needle
bar
to highest
position,
and
open
front
cover
to
the
left.
(See
14
Fig.
1)
Hold
the
bobbin
case latch,
(D, Fig.
11)
between
the
thumb
and
forefinger of
the
left hand,
with
at
least
three
inches
of
thread running
from
the
top of
the
bobbin
case
to the
right,
Insert
and
center
the bobbin
case
on
the
stud
of
the
shuttle
body, (C).
Be
sure
the
bobbin
case
finger,
(E),
is
opposite
the
shuttle
race
notch
(A).
Press
the
bobbin
case
(B)
into the
shuttle
as far
as
possible
until
latch
catches
on
the
center
post
of
the shuttle.
THEN
release
the
bobbin
case
latch,
(D). Press
bobbin
case
again
after
latch
has
been
released
to
make sure
the bobbin
case
is
locked
securely
in
place.
Close
the
front
cover.
Fig. 10
7
1
Fig.
8
Fig.
9
Fig.
11

8
UPPER
THREADING
1.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
to
raise
the
take-up
lever
to
its
highest
position.
2.
Place
a
spool
of thread
on
the
spool
pin.
3. Lead
the
thread
through
the
upper
arm
thread
guides.
4.
Down and
between
the
tension
discs,
from
right
to
left.
5.
Draw
the
thread
up
through
the
check spring
and
with
a
slight
tug
into
the
hook.
6.
Up
and
through
the
eye
of
the
take-up
lever
from
right
to left.
7.
Lead
thread
down
through
thread
guide
and
behind
the
face
plate
guides
and
then through
the
needle
bar
guide
from
the
back.
8.
Thread
needle
FROM
LEFT
TO
RIGHT,
drawing
it
through
about
3 or
4
inches.
Hold
the
end of
the
upper
thread
loosely
and
turn
the
hand wheel
toward
you
until
the
needle
goes
all
the
way
down
and
comes
back
up.
A
loop
will
be
formed
over the
upper thread
which
then
can
be
pulled
out
straight. Place
both
thread
ends
under
the
slot of the
presser
foot
and draw
toward
the
back
of
the
machine,
leaving
both
threads
three
or four
inches
long.
(Figs.
19
and
20,
Page
12)
Fig.
12

ADJUSTING THE
TENSIONS
Always
adjust
the
upper
tension with
the
presser
foot
down,
as
the
tension
is
released
when
it
is
raised.
To
increase
the
tension
on
the
upper
thread, turn
dial (Fig.
13)
to
the
right.
To
decrease,
turn
to
the
left.
Before
adjusting
lower
tension
be
sure
that
the
machine
is
threaded
properly.
When
it
is
necessary
to
change
the
bobbin
tension, turn
the
small
screw (Fig.15)
on
side of
the
bobbin
case
clockwise
to tighten,
counter
clockwise
to
loosen.
Fig.
14-A
Fig.
14-B
When
the
upper
tensions
are
properly balanced,
a
perfect
stitch
will
be
formed
with
both threads
inter
locking
in
fabric
(Fig.
14-A).
When
the upper
tension
is
too
tight,
the lower
thread
is
pulled
up
over
the
upper
thread
which
is
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(Fig. 14-B).
When
the
upper
tension
is
too
loose,
the
upper
thread
forms
loops
over
the
lower
thread
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(Fig.
14-C).
Fig.
13
Fig.
14-C
Fig.
15

10
TO
REGULATE
THE LENGTH
OF
STITCH
SEWING
IN
REVERSE
When
you
wish
to
sew
in
reverse
to
tie
the
threads
at
the
beginning
or
the
end
of
a seam, press
the
reverse
button
(B,
Fig.
16)
as
far
as
it
will
go.
The
machine
will
sew
backward
as long
as
the
button
is
pressed.
STRAIGHT
AND
ZIGZAG
SEWING
For
all
ordinary
manual
sewing,
straight
or
zigzag,
make
sure
that
the
pattern
selector
(C,
Fig.
16)
is
set
at
“straight
&
zigzag”
stitch
pattern
(Marked
).
By turning
the
zigzag
width
control
(D,
Fig.
16)clockwise
from
0
toward
5,
zigzag
width
will
be
increased,
and
by turning
it
counter-clockwise,
it
will
be
decreased,
and
at
“0” position,
the
machine
will
sew
straight
stitches.
The
length
of the stitch
is
regulated
by
the
stitch
length
dial (A,
Fig.
16).
Turn
the
dial
to
the
right
to
lengthen
and
to the
left to
shorten
the
stitch.
Near
“0”
is
the
shortest
stitch
and
“5”
is
the
longest.
Stitch
Length
Chart
(Approximate)
Figuresondial
0
1
2
Number of
stitchs
per
inch
No
Feeding
36
20
IC
ii
34
5
12
9
7
Fig.
16

ii.
ADJUSTING PRESSURE
AND FEEDING
OF
FABRIC
General
Sewing.
Usually
for
normal
sewing
the
pressure
bar
cap or
darner
release,
(B,
Fig.
17)
is
at
its
lowest
position
and
the
drop
feed
knob
is
turned
to
“
“
position,
(Fig.
18).
Sewing
Thin
or
Light
Weight
Fabrics.
When
lighter
pressure
is
required
to
sew
satisfactorily
on
thin
silk
or flimsy
material,
the
pressure
cap
should
be
about
halfway
down.
Release
all
the
way
by
pressing
the
snap
lock,
(A,
Fig.
17)
and
then
press
cap
(B)
down
again
to
halfway
spot.
Darning
and
Mending.
In
order
to
move
the
fabric
freely
in
any
direction
for
darning
and
mending,
release
the pressure
cap
(B,
Fig.
17)
completely
by
pressing
down
on
the
snap
lock,
(A,
Fig.
17)
Turn
drop
feed
control
(Fig.
18)
to
DOWN”
position.
This
will
drop
the
feed
well
below the
•needle
plate.
To
return
feed
to
normal
position, turn
knob
to
C
DOWN”
position.
El
g.
18

12
PREPARING
TO
SEW
Have
take-up
lever
at
highest
point before
starting
to
sew.
Do
not
try
to
help
the
feeding
by
pulling
the
material
as
this
may
deflect
the
needle and
cause
it
to
break.
NEVER
run
machine
without
material
under
presser
foot.
Place
material
and
threads
in
position
under
the
presser
foot
and
lower
the
presser
foot,
You
are
now
ready
to
begin
sewing.
By
having
the needle at
its
highest
point,
it
is
not
necessary
to
touch the
hand
wheel
to
start
the
machine.
You
merely
press
the
control.
The
speed
of
the machine
is
regulated
by
increasing
or
decreasing the
amount
of
pressure
exerted
on
the
control.
REMOVING THE
WORK
Be
sure
to
stop the
machine
when
the
thread
take-up
lever
and
needle
bar
are
at
the
highest
position.
Now
raise
the
presser
foot
and
draw
the
fabric back
and
to
the
left,
and
pass
the
threads
over
the
thread
cutter.
Pull
down
slightly,
holding
thread
in
both hands,
so
as
not
to
bend
the
needle.
Leave
the
ends
of
thread
under
the
presser
foot.
Fig.
19
Fig.
20

THREE
NEEDLE
POSiTION
A.
The machine
has
three
basic
needle
position-LEFT,
MIDDLE
and
RIGHT-controlled by
a
needle
position
ever
to
the left
of
the
zigzag
stitch
regulator
as
illustrated.
13
Fig.
21

14
B.
When the
needle
position
lever
is in
its
LEFT
groove,
the
stitch
directions
are
as
per
illustration
B.
The
width,
ot
course,
varies,
and
is regulated
by
the
zigzag
stitch
regulator
as
explained
on
the
preceding.
page.
The length
also
varies, as
an
accordion,
depending
on
the
setting
of
the
stitch
regulator.
C.
In
the
MIDDLEposition,
the
stitch
directions
in
illustration C.
In this
setting, a
great
many different
stitches can
be
obtained
depending
on
the
other two
settings.
They
will,
however,
have
one
thing
in
common..
direction..
as
the
diaqram indicates.
Then
using
the
straight
sewing needle
plate
the
position
lever
must
be
in
the
MIDDLE
D.
In the
RIGHT
position,
the
needle
starts from
the
right,
or
just
opposite from
the
left.
In
the
following
pages,
we
explain
how
you
may
do
straight
stitching,
zigzag
stitching,
embroidery,
appliquing,
button
sewing,
buttonhole
making,
hemming,
blind
stitching
and
many
other
types
of
work,
using
only
the
adjustments
of
the
zigzag
system.
3
VARIATIONS
OF
LEFT
ZZ
STITCH
3VARIATIONS
OF
MIDDLE ZZ
STITCH
3
VARIATiONS
OF
RIGHT
ZZ
STITCH
Fig.
22

15
MAKING
BUTTONHOLES
First,
mark
the
beginning
and end
of
the
buttonhole
on
fabric with
a
basting
line
or tailor’s
chalk.
Make
one on
scrap
fabric
(following
directions
below)
to
be
sure
machine
adjustments
are
correct.
1.
Replace presser
foot
with
buttonhole
foot
which
is
grooved
deeply
underneath
to
prevent
piling
up
of
thread.
(See
Fig. 23).
2.
Set
stitch
width
at
21/2
and
stitch
length
knob
near
0.
3.
Lower
needle
carefully
into
the mark
on
fabric indicating
the
begin
ning
of
buttonhole.
Stitch
to
the
mark
for
the
end
of
the
button
hole,
step
1,
Fig.
24.
Stop machine
with
needle
in
fabric at
right side
of
Fig.
23
stitching.
4.
Lift
the
presser
foot
and
using
the
needle
as
a
pivot,
turn
the
fabric
end
for
end.
5.
Lower presser
foot
and
turn
hand wheel
just
enough
to
c
raise
needle
out
of
fabric.
—
0
6.
Turn
drop feed
dial
to
“DOWN”
positim
and
set
zigzag
width
control
as
far
to
the
right
as
possible.
Take five
or
E
six
stitchesto
form
bartack
(Step
2,
Fig.
24).
P
P
p
T
7.
Raise
needle
out of
fabric,
reset
stitch
width
at
2½
and
1
2
—
3
D
return
feed
to
p
position.
8.
Stitch
second
side
of
buttonhole,(Step
3).
Fig
4
9.
Stitch
bar tack
by
repeating
5
and
6
above
(Step 4).
10.
Return
stitch
width
to
0
and
take
two
or
three stitches
to
fasten bar
threads
and
prevent
ravelling.
Cut
the
buttonhole
opening
with
the
seam
ripper,
being careful
not
to cut
the
stitching.
If
you
plan
to
make
buttonholes
on
sheer
or
soft
material,
place
tarlatan
or paper,
under
fabric
which
can
be
torn
away after
stitching.

16
SEWING
ON
BUTTONS
1.
Remove
presser
foot
and
attach
button
sewing
foot.
See
Fig.
25
2.
Turn
drop
feed
knob
to
“Down”
position
3.
Set
zigzag stitch
width
at
0.
Place
the
button
so
that
its left
hole
comes
directly
under the
needle,
then
gently lower
the
presser
foot.
Fig.
26.
4.
Move
zigzag
stitch
width
control
until the
needle
comes
down
exactly
over
the
right
hand
hole
in
the
button.
Fig.
27.
Turn
the
hand
wheel slowly
by
hand
to
be
sure
the
needle
enters
both
holes
in
button
without
deflecting
needle,
correct
width
if necessary.
5.
When
needle goes
into
the
center
of
each
hole,
run
the
machine at
medium speed, making
six
or
eight
stitches,
stopping
with
the
needle
in
the
left
hole.
6.
To
lock
the
zigzag
stitch
and
prevent
ravelling,
set
the
stitch
width at 0,
and
take
a
few
stitches
in
the
same
hole.
If
you
wish
you may
place a
rounded toothpick
over
the
button,
between
the
two
holes,
and sew
button
to
fabric
in
regular
way.
Remove
the
toothpick
and
wind
thread under
the
button,
forming a
shank
to
fasten.
Apply
the
above
method
to
sew
on
buttons with
four
holes,
hooks
and
snaps,
etc.
If
a
four
hole
button
is
to
be
sewn,
follow
the
same
procedure
above
for
the
two
hole
button.
Now
lift
presser
foot
slightly
and
move
fabric
to
permit
stitching the
remaining
two
holes.
Hooks,
snaps,
etc.,
are
sewn
to
the
fabric with the
same
procedure
as
for
sewing
two
hole
buttons.
Fig.
25
Fig.
26
Fig.
27
Fig.
28

STRETCH
STITCH
17
When
you
use
the straight
stretch stitch
to seam
knit, stretch,
and
elasticized
fabric,
“stretch”
and
strength
are
built
in
as
the
seam
is
being
sewn.
Because
it
is
equally
useful
for
closed
or press-open
seam
construction
and
will not break
thread
under
stress,
the
straight stretch stitch
is
also
good for
seams
that
receive
an
unusual
amount
of
strain
when worn.
For example:
crotch
seaming,
sleeve
insertion
and
construction
seams
in
sportswear
and
bathing
suits.
1. Use
standard
zigzag
foot.
2.
Set
stretch
stitch
lever
exactly
to
right.
3.
Set
zigzag
width
control
dial
at
number
“0”
(for
straight)
or any
number
(for zigzag
stretch stitch).
4.
Set
stitch
dial to
mark
“5”
when
you
sew
stretch
stitch.
I”
J.”
i
Fig.
29
CAUTION
— It
is
difficult
to
remove
this
stitch
from fabric.
Pre-fit
garment
before
using
this
stitch.
•
TOPSTITCHING
Because
this
stitch
is heavier
than
an
ordinary
straight
stitch,
it is ideal
for
top-stitching, particularly
on
knits.

18
FREE-ARM
SEWING
For sewing
tubular
and
hard-to-reach
areas,
use your
machine
as
a
free-arm.
Stitching
buttonholes
or
sewing
buttons
on
a cuff
or
neckband;
topstitching
a sleeve;
edge
finishes
on
sleeves,
pantlegs
and
waistlines;
darning
and
patching
knees,
elbows;
and other
areas
of
wear
on
children’s
clothing become
as
easy
as sewing
a
common
seam
when
you
have
the
free-arm
at your
fingertips.
Illustrations
show
some
examples
of
sewing with
the free-arm.
(Figs
30—35)
Fig.
30
Fig.
31

cc